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Put 2 screws in the two holes and turn or take the car to the dealer, it's free.
That truly is an odd one... That you would get the vibration feel only on the first run up to 70mph. Did you check real good around the axle shafts. Possibly part of the truck tire casing has wrapped around one of them. Each axle has a rubber "vibration damper": donut & due to the slight angle downward towards the wheel a piece of this casing may be caught or hung up on it... As you speed up to 70mph it may be enough to throw the axle out of balance, subsequently as you slow down the spinning of the axle may cause it to move thus you don't feel it on second run up... After you have stopped/parked it may slip down again. Just a shot in the dark my friend. Good luck with this puzzle
i remember a friend driving through some mud once with one wheel when parking at a campsite in the woods. when he took off the next day, he experienced high-vibration at speed. turns out some mud hardened on the inside of the rim throwing off the balance of that tire.
a good spray with a water hose to remove the caked mud put everything right.
related story, but not about vibration: my wife not long ago ran over some road debris in our ODY van and didn't tell me. i drove the car and noted creaking comming from the rear of the vehicle. for a few days, i thought maybe a rear strut was loose. finally i get fed up, and drive the vehicle's passenger side up onto the curb so i can scoot myself under the rear of the car more easily. lo-and-behold i find an iron water shut-off pole (these things are like 4feet long) wedged up into the rear spring. it had to be placed on a hydraulic lift to unload the spring so we could get the pole out.
wow, i couldn't believe our luck. no damage to the ABS / brake lines, cat convertor, muffler, and no puncture to the fuel tank.
hopefully, the poster can get this solved easily and inexpensively.
Put 2 screws in the two holes and turn or take the car to the dealer, it's free."
Some states do not require the front license plate, so the frame for the front is not included in delivery. The dealer should be able to provide the frame.
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And the OWNER's MANUAL says that you need to press the "unlock" button twice to unlock other doors. First press unlocks the driver's door, and second press unlocks the rest.
Sounds like your problem is not with the remote but with the driver's door lock. It is either dirty, or corroded.
Check if the solenoid and actuator work when pressing the "lock" or "unlock" buttons on the remote or the button inside the vehicle. Chances are your driver's door will not work when the button inside is pressed.
If you hear the noise, but nothing happens, remove the door skin and see if the linkages are still intact.
Most likely culprit is the solenoid, and needs to be replaced.
i suppose another possibility is a fuel relay or pump, but if either was at root cause, i'm thinking the alternator light and SRS and oil light ect would illuminate.
because just about everything seems dead, it's almost like turning off the ignition right?
so my first inclination: worn ignition switch or faulty wiring to same. and the more you use it, the more it's likely to get worse.
look here *at the bottom*. hmmm, maybe its a recall item!
http://www.honestjohn.co.uk/carbycar/index.htm?p_make=HON&h_make=HON&p_model= 142
At times it will rev up to 2,400 rpm between reverse and 1st before the clutch engages. Any thoughts?
I had asked about this once before and thought it was getting better but I was just compensating by leaving the clutch engaged longer.
Worse when cold.
Any association with ETC that some of you have written about?
Thanks for any insights.
At times it will rev up to 2,400 rpm between reverse and 1st before the clutch engages. Any thoughts?
I had asked about this once before and thought it was getting better but I was just compensating by leaving the clutch engaged longer.
Worse when cold.
Any association with ETC that some of you have written about?
Thanks for any insights.
So, let's say you are in 1st, preparing to shift into 2nd, you ease off the accelerator, press the clutch, shift into 2nd, and as you start to release the clutch, the engine revs to 2,400 RPM? At what RPM were you prior to shifting?
Register your VIN number at Honda's owner's link and see if the FREE Ignition switch recall has been performed.
I haven't done anything yet, but my workaround will probably be to put some tissue or something around the pins to make them fit more snuggly so they won't rattle.
Has anyone else been experiencing this problem? What have been your workarounds, if any?
Clutch depressed with rpm to 2,400.
Engaged 2nd with rpm to 2,000.
Made sure foot off the accelerator between gears.
I have discovered that if I wind it up about 800 rpm more than usual in each gear before shifting, the effect is much less pronounced.(this matches the rpm for each gear in my accord auto.).
Thanks for the response.Either I am getting old and picky or throttle responses have changed since our '89 accord manual.
Clutch depressed with rpm to 2,400.
Engaged 2nd with rpm to 2,000.
Made sure foot off the accelerator between gears.
I have discovered that if I wind it up about 800 rpm more than usual in each gear before shifting, the effect is much less pronounced.(this matches the rpm for each gear in my accord auto.).
Thanks for the response.Either I am getting old and picky or throttle responses have changed since our '89 accord manual.
You are shifting too low. Try shifting at around 2500 RPM for low RPM shifts, and around 6800 RPM for "spirited driving".
I think what is happenning is that you press the accelerator to get the car moving, but because the RPM's are so low, when you shift there is residual air/fuel mixture in the manifold that has not been burned off. When you release the clutch the residual mixture causes the engine to rev up.
I assume the revs don't stay up, and come down to idle after a little while.
If I run the rpm higher the effect tends to disappear.
I was trying for better fuel efficiency.
Didn't realize that the crv could be in the category of "spirited driving".
Don't think I've been over 4000 rpm since my '69 MGB.
Thanks for the info.
If I run the rpm higher the effect tends to disappear.
I was trying for better fuel efficiency.
Didn't realize that the crv could be in the category of "spirited driving".
Don't think I've been over 4000 rpm since my '69 MGB.
Thanks for the info
If you shift just below 2500 RPM you will achieve the same. The engine operates in 12 valve mode in low RPM's. Then switches to 16 valve mode.
Try winding it up past 5000 RPM, she is a beast!!!! People who drive automatic have no clue what they are missing!!!!
Although I prefer a manual, any automatic owner can experience the rush... they just have to put their foot on the floor...
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I have 2004 CR-V EX with mileage at 21609. The CR-V does not have any problem (except the seat is not very comfortable and I need to put a pillow for my low back and low mile of about 18mpg driving in city). The 3 year factory warranty is going to expire in Aug. 07.
I got a quote of about $2150 for Easycare TOALCARE by APCO package for additional 5 year/100,000mile. It has $100 deductible per visit. I would like to know whether any one bought this kind of extended warranty before. How is their service in terms of keep their service contract? Would this quote expensive? Does it make sense to buy this kind of service contact (extended warranty (I may drive another 40K miles in additional 5 years. It will be only about 61K by end of 8 year when the contract ends)? What are the most possible repair problems on 2004 CR-V? Any one experience major on 2004 CR-V? Any input is welcome. Thanks.
Don't do it. Buy the Hondacare package, which can be found at reasonable prices on the Internet. I paid around $950 for a 7 year 100K warranty for my 2003, with zero deductable.
But the real reason is that the Hondacare warranties are fulfilled by the dealer and there is not hassle at all with using them. There have been reports of problems with 3rd party warranties.
Thank you
I bought it at purchase. The dealer wanted some outrageous price, and I showed him the prices available on the Internet, which they matched.
I just looked at some web pricing, and it appears that you may be limited to 6 years / 84K. This was at a cost of $1020 and zero deductable.
The same site listed 12 - 48 month options, I suppose for those REALLY low mileage CR-Vs. These plans were at $100 deductible and ranged from $480 - $900.
I suggest you read the Edmunds thread on this topic. In any case you need to act soon - you have to get the warranty before 3 years expires!
I hesitate to provide the URL because I don't know the site - I was just checking some random pricing.
Thank you very much
Why would you spend $2000 on something that you MAY use. So far, your Honda has proved to you that you did not need the warranty.
If you keep maintaining your CR-V there is a very good chance that you will not neeed to use the warranty.
If you do insist on getting an extended warranty, get Honda Care and nothing else.
My dealer sents out a quarterly leaflet about deals they are running for the maintenance. It has the minor (7500 miles/6 months), intermediate (12 months or 15000 miles) and major (24 months/30,000 miles) maintenance. Which should I go for - Minor or Intermediate (since it is almost 10 months)?
My CRV computer display doesn't show anything on the maintenance minder. Should I wait for any maintenance minder?
Go by what your owner's manual says, not the dealer.
Follow the maintenance minder and don't forget to reset it.
The dealer will always come up with some recommended service especially during slow times in order to boost his profit margin.
Remember this service is not required by Honda.
Have you tried Lemon Law?
I am sorry for your car, but so far, I didn't have any problem with my CRV, thank god. I had driven 2500 miles in just 2 months when I was commuting to my work place. Now I have a job closer and I dont use much of my CRV. One thing which was so weird is that: I noticed a peculiar sound when I get down from car while in the gas station or any other place when the engine is on, it makes a weird sound, as if someone is accelerating. Apart from that, it has been so good.
Thanks for the tip.
Follow the maintenance minder and don't forget to reset it.
The dealer will always come up with some recommended service especially during slow times in order to boost his profit margin.
Remember this service is not required by Honda.
How do I reset the maintenance minder?
Thank you very much for your post. I think you are right. I think it over. The reason I buy Honda is due to its reputation of reliability. Anyway, I may only hold the car for a couple years before get another new one. So I will not buy extended warranty and take a chance. Hope this CRV like my Toyota car which I did not spend money for repair except one battery, 4 tires, and one set of brake disc at more than 90K miles before it was total damaged at a parking lot by a crazy guy.
Mine came up at 23,000 Km when the manual stated 90,000 Km on my Honda 2006 CRV. Apparently the rear differential has breather hole that allow contaminants in early. So I will continue to replace every 25,000 Km. It was covered under the Drive Train warranty. The Dealer will take care of you if you ask for a courtesy warranty. Good Luck.
Unless of course, you are going 85 mph, and the downshift would put you over the redline in a lower gear.. Sounds like that may be what happened?
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Thanks for the tip.
Somehow I lost the honda crv 2007 maintainence log book. Is there any way, I can purchase a new log book? what will be the cost? Also, if you can help, can you please let me know when do I need to go for 2nd maintainence. I already have 8000 miles.
Thanks for your help.
If it's down that much oil, and it's not dripping on your garage, then it's being burnt up and coming out your tailpipe. It's only going to get worse. Once it starts visibly smoking, you'll have a much tougher time selling it.
Get rid of it while you can, cut any losses and move on. Lemons happen.