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I flush coolant every two years and brake fluid at around 30,000. I do this because I drive hard and fast and am often in the boonies, so I need for my car to be dead-on reliable. Driving a MINI, this isn't easy to accomplish :P
unfortunately i just had the oil change and since we can go for like a year before the next oil change i guess i guess i'll have to wait before i put in the bottle of bg44k since most people are saying it should be done before the oil is changed.
On another note, you can add a little Seafoam to the oil as well to free up sticky valves or clean out the engin a little. That I would do maybe 2-3 weeks before an oil change. Not saying this will cure your hesitation as that is more likely fuel system related. Your CRV is still pretty new but I've added a little Seafoam to the crank case of my 04 with 150K miles, doesn't hurt.
Has anyone else had these front axle problems? I'm hoping that if there are enough people with this problem, there may be a way to present it to Honda to get some kind of recall for this part.
Additionally, does anyone know how to file complaints with Honda so they can start looking into the problem. Thanks!
The quote you got seems high. Complete axle assemblies should list at the dealer for around $600 each and labor for both sides should be 1.6 hours.
It's true that there are a lot of substandard rebuilt axles being made out there. I didn't see any TSBs or other notices about CRV axles.
Does anyone know whether the 2011 crv maintenance feedback system also will tell you when it thinks you need to change transmission fluid and any other fluids associated w/ the drivetrain?
How well does this work? is this trustworthy? how long has this been in place for the cr-v?
Code A:
Replace engine oil
Code B:
Replace engine oil and oil filter
Inspect front and rear brakes
Check parking brake adjustment
Inspect these items:
Tie rod ends, steering gear box, and boots
Suspension components
Driveshaft boots
Brake hoses and lines (including ABS/VSA)
All fluid levels and condition of fluids
Exhaust system
Fuel lines and connections
Code 1:
Rotate tires
Code 2:
Replace air cleaner element
If you drive in dusty conditions, replace every 15,000 miles (24,000 km).
Replace dust and pollen filter
If you drive primarily in urban areas that have high concentrations of soot in the air from industry and from diesel-powered vehicles, replace every 15,000
miles (24,000 km).
Inspect drive belt
Code 3:
Replace transmission fluid
If you tow a CR-V behind a motor-home, the transmission fluid must be changed every 2 years or 30,000 miles (48,000 km), whichever comes first.
Code 4:
Replace spark plugs
Inspect valve clearance
Code 5:
Replace engine coolant
Code 6:
Replace rear differential fluid (4WD only)
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Replace rear differential fluid (4WD only)
IS this an accurate ?
"My V was due for maintenance and I was scrambling to look for the code meanings"
Another question on the maintenance minder (my words; I dont know what honda calls this little system) ; does it issue the codes noted in the maint. manual?
It doesn't mean you can go off road and do donuts daily and it still ask you to do tire rotation and alignment yearly. That's the recommended service. Your dealer will tell you what else is needed based on the 'health check'.
I went to get the VTC recall and A16 done and it costed me $160 w/ tax.
They have a 'health report' printed when I checked out and it has the brake and tire wear figures on it. Pretty cool stuff.
what is VTC recall and A16?
Possibly wheel bearing?
I brought it back to the dealer and they put on new rotors which seem to be working as expected.
I checking to see if others have run into this issue or whether mine was an isolated "Monday morning" brake assembly issue.
I am especially concerned because I have just retired and the CR-V will be sitting for several months in the garage while I'm in Florida and wonder whether this will occur again.
wells filled with oil.
The original problem was that the 'check engine light" was on,which prompted me to change the plugs. 137k on engine :confuse:
There is a the main valve cover gasket in a kit and 4 plug tube seals. Sometimes there are 2 tube seal gaskets ie; 1 gasket encompasses 2 spark plugs. They are just rubber gaskets the prevent the oil from getting into the tubes. If you opt not to do it yourself, just tell the mechanic (any independent mechanic can do this - no need to go to the dealer) the plugs tube seals are leaking.
I'm off to my trusted mechanic
Confessions From the Dealership Service Department
The reason it sometimes starts and sometimes doesnt is because of an intermittent connection also known as a "short" in the switch itself. That connection is making a sizzling noise because it's not making good connection inside the switch. And without a good connection it won't allow you to start the car. Other times it works because the connection is made, car starts. I would imagine that the accessory position is also intermittent as well. I've seen this happen on civics before.
But try to get it checked out soon before it shorts out and starts a fire. I'm not trying to scare you but you're dealing with a live 12v line to the battery and if it shorts out, sparks, it could start a fire. Don't want you to get hurt.
This is a new car and should not have this leak unless Honda uses cheap parts from the dollar store.
When the ignition key is turned to the accessory power position an audible clicking can be heard from the speedometer area for about 3 to 5 seconds. The speedometer needle also vibrates while this clicking sound is happening. The car starts just fine, and the clicking stops every time after being in the accessory position for 3 to 5 seconds.
There are also other odd things like power locks dont operate unless key is in the on position?
P1166- Heated oxygen sensor bank 2 sensor 1 heater malfunction
P1167- Heated oxygen sensor 1 heater malfunction
P0420- Catalyst system efficiency below threshold bank 1
P1077- Intake manifold tuning(intake manifold runner control) valve stuck short
P0661- Intake manifold tuning valve control circuit low bank 1
P1077- Intake manifold tuning(Intake manifold runner control) valve stuck short
I plan to check to upstream o2 sensor at the cat converter tomorrow.To see what values it gives me.But out side of that.I'm going to check the valve clearance since that hasn't been done in 100k miles.
Can you tell me what i'm dealing with here.Any info would be greatly appericated.Its also a vtec engine.Thanks.
Did the first oil change and found that only Mobil 1 has the ow20 oil. And only in single qts (the worst value) $9.xx/qt at A Z, and $6.99/qt at W M.
Saddly, W M only had 4 qts in stock so I had to buy one from A Z.
We live in a moderate climate, with hot summers.
I am considering going to 5w20 or 5w30 for next change.
Anyone been down this road?
The dealer could not replicate - they suggested it could be a starter, but even they were not sure so nothing was done. The starter was actually replaced a few years ago, but my recollection is the sound was different. That was more of a failure to crank and it was doing it every time. This sounds different
If so, what oil are you using?
Regards:
Oldbearcat
We also have a 2008 Odyssey EX-L, driven around town/school, mostly local small roads with a lot of stop and go.
Now, the Odyssey had its Maintenance Minder state B123 at about 30K. Question is about the "3", which stands for "Replace Transmission Fluid".
My question is that the CRV has still not given the "3" minder. It has given "A", "B", "1", and "2" until now. It has again just given an "A1" maint minder, when I was expecting "3" to have come up. This is very much different from the Odyssey (though understood they are different vehicles, used for different purposes too).
1) Is it quite normal for the CRV to have yet not given the "3" minder, even at 53K mileage?
What has been your experience?
2) Should I wait for "3" minder to come up to replace the transmission fluid? Or is it advisable to do it without it saying so?
Any experiences/thoughts will be helpful.
Thanks in advance!