Sorry for the duplicate message but I just realized that this board had most of the Oil / Fire Discussion: FYI, I just did the first oil change on my 04 EX this weekend heeding all of the advise previously listed here. Went smooth, but the old filter gasket stuck on filter mount as I expected. It came off easily but I can see people (even dealers) not checking this as it is somewhat blind. My advice it this: WHENEVER YOU BRING YOUR V IN FOR A CHANGE, CAUTION THEM TO DOUBLE CHECK THAT THE OLD FILTER GASKET IS REMOVED. MAKE A HUGE DEAL OUT OUT THIS, TELL THEM IT HAS CAUSED MAJOR PROBLEMS. In my opinion, leaking/spraying oil is probably the culprit to the fires we have heard about here. BTW, the new filters have the same gasket design that can come off the filter. Toyota for example, uses an O ring integrated into the filter metal housing so it can not come off. Honda should do the same
I seem to have a clanking noise would be the only way to describe it, coming from the rear differential when im making sharp turns or in the snow when the rear wheels start to spin. Any suggestions
Me thinks your info and the others on this forum has prevented a few fires. I wish Honda would warn their dealers but maybe that is where NHTSA comes in
I have a new CRV with 2000 miles on it. I notice that when I turn on the headlights I hear a fast clicking sound from under the hood. When I turen the lights off the sound goes away. Anyone experience this and any ideas as to what it might be. Thanks,
I hope when I have the oil changed for my 04crv, the gasket problem will have well been aware to all dealers. Honda should do something about it definitely. By the way, you drive a lot. You would not be supposed to have the oil changed at least before the initial 5000 miles. And I might have made a wrong decision to have this crv. Riding in NY city almost like off-road riding that is not a crv designed for.
The first fire happened in July 03. Honda hasn't done a thing. The dealers still do not know about it. TELL YOUR DEALER ABOUT and take the advice that others have posted here. You don't want to have happen what happened to me (and the thers). It was prbably the scariest thing that has happened to me in a car.
I just bought a brand new 2004 CRV EX Auto. I'm already 3/4 of the way empty on fuel but have only driven aprrox 140miles. Is this low mpg normal when 'breaking' the car in new? Also has anyone else experience a dragging or sticking feeling in the transmission or brakes when speedometer goes below 20 mph? Feels like the brakes are kicking in on its own or something... i notice it when i drive above 20 mph and then let go of the gas when it goes below 20 there's a lurching or sticking feeling... sorry i can't explain it any better...
Make sure your e-brake isn't locking up. Take it to the dealer and ask them to take a look. Just checking for something like that should not require an appointment.
Just completed a 2200 mile round trip to Las Vegas including a few 5000-6000 ft mountain passes and winter conditions. Mileage averaged 25.5. Worst was 23mpg with a stout head wind. Speeds were reasonably close to the 70mph limits in Nevada. I have noticed differences in the gas quality. The Chevron/76/Shell worked well while a few of the off brands drop the mileage.
I do experience something like that at a low speed and it is intermittent for my 04CRV (FWD, 650 miles). There is a quick slow down feeling that can only be experienced when I stop pedaling the gas at high speed (say 80mpr) for my other vehicles. Read some posts on Yahoo’s CRV group, it seems there is some problem of so-called “sticking” back breaks for the new generation CRV. By the way, I can hear and feel some metallic noise from breaks (sounds like uneven friction or sticky) when I move my crv out and into my garage at very low speed with lots of breaks. Is this normal for a new car? What is e-break?
Just bought a 1999 CRV EX AWD and when driving in winter weather (snow,slush and sleet) on the highway at 55 to 65 the vehicle feels like it's sliding, it almost feels like the rear end is trying to fishtail. I have to slow down to 40-45 to feel like I have control again. This is the first AWD I have owned. Is there an adjustment period to driving an AWD? I have driven trucks for my living long ago so I am not unskilled drving in bad weather. I don't have much confidence in this vehicle. When I do slow down to regain control mustangs,vans,cavaliers and other suvs pass me with no apparent control problems.
brakes touching the wheels? This doesn't make much sense to me, as the rear brakes on a '99 are drum brakes.
Have you had the rear differential fluid changed? It can cause a low rumbling or grinding sound from the rear end when making a tight turn. If you do it yourself you'll have to get the special "dual pump" fluid from a Honda dealer, as it's neither a transmission fluid nor gear oil.
The gas gauge on the 2nd generation CRVs is terrible. Also, the fuel warning light will come on extremely early. Check your fuel mileage accurately by dividing miles driven by number of gallons to refill. You'll probably find you are getting decent mileage. Even at 22-23 MPG, you will have to fill up before 300 miles, though.
Your gas mileage will likely improve as your engine breaks in.
When I bought my new EX, I got similar feeling. I did not do any break jobs on my new EX myself yet, but I did a lot on my old cars. Of course, I may not diagnose your problem on-line. But if you believe that your brakes are 'sticking' there is a good old test for it. Find an even flat surface like an empty parking lot. Move with low speed, put lever on neutral, Do not touch the breaks. Car would slowly move until it stop by itself. If your breaks are 'sticking', at last stopping moment you would feel like a slight pull back (or kick back). If there are no 'kick back' breaks are o'k. If you are not sure, make this procedure several times after different braking patterns. Another test: After driving on a highway for a while do not break hard, stop and check the temperature of the rotors. Touch them carefully - they might be very hot. Actually you may moisten your finger with saliva and quickly touch. Normally rotor is warm but not very hot. If rotor is sizzling hot without hard breaking, it might indicate a problem - so watch it for a while and/or contact your dealer. If problem persists and you ignore it - your rotor might get warped and nothing would help (not even turning it - if crystal structure of metal changed (steel get tempered), rotor need to be replaced. Rotors are made of soft steel ). Warped rotor give you a distinctive pulsating feeling on a break pedal. Sometimes new breaks are sticking, sometimes old rusty ones (if not used for a while). Old needs cleaning and light greasing the grooves. Sometimes problem would go by itself after new breaks are 'settled'.
I have a 2001-CRV and have been experiencing cold stalls. This has thoroughly stumped the mechanics. They've tried the valve pressure, which is fine, the ignition is fine, they're trying to see if the switch is bad and thinking that maybe the RPMs are staying up on the computer when it's still very low. This only happens when it's cold. Also, my Check Engine light comes on.
Stevec10 - Sorry, I replied earlier, but a link I provided must have been a site with another automotive forum (which is against TH policy). My bad.
Anyway, I did a search on Cooper Lifeliners and found some mixed reviews. Some were fine with wet traction, but there were enough complaining about snow and slush to give me pause. The link I mentioned had a few. I did not find test data on Tire Rack, but you might try similar sites for controlled test results.
Longer lasting tires tend to be made with harder rubber compounds. Soft rubber is what you want with a good snow tire. I would start by investigating the tires. While the CR-V is not a perfect snow vehicle, the majority do not find it as "squirrely" as you have described. See if you can find more information about those tires. If you don't find good results, get rid of them before next winter.
I reported a major oil loss problem in a previous posting that happened to my daughters "03 CRV on 16 January; she lost power, and another car flagged her down and said her vehicle was on fire. She got out, saw sparks and lots of smoke coming from under the hood, and called 911. No fire, but they disabled the battery and had it towed to the dealer. Dealer was not able to explain what specifically happened. I showed him copies of these web postings, and they were really interested. They brought in the local Honda rep, who took pictures, etc. They had to replace the entire wiring harness, and the engine computer. Car was out of commission for 14 days. We have the vehicle back now, and seems fine (except for slight oil smell remaining). Dealer picked up costs, to include towing charge; they told my daughter that it was somehow related to a torque wrench and oil filter issue. My daughter had gone 1200 miles since the dealer had performed the last service; he commented that they did not know how it went that far in its condition. Dealer was apologetic and agreed from the very beginning to take care of everything. Hope this helps someone else along the way.
UVA 1972, you got a good dealer. Please still file a NHTSA report. Report as you have said. My opinion is Honda needs to let the dealer know about this. And if it was that simple of problem it could happen again and to others.
I have a 2001 C-RV. Any information as to why my engine stalls mostly when the weather's cold? Then my engine light came on and stayed on. Then it went off and now it comes back on at will. The RPMs rise, but then come back to normal and stall. This is a persistent problem. My mechanic says that he's checked the valves, the igniter, the computer sensors, ignition switch. This seems to have even the Honda mechanics stumped. Please give me some advice as I've been w/o my C-RV for four months now. It seems to only happen on 2000+ Hondas.
Did I mention that my CRV with the stalling problem is a standard shift? Don't know if this has anything to do with it or not, but thought I'dd add this info.
=============================================== May 2002
Recall Campaign: Ignition Switch
Dear Honda Owner:
Your car is affected by the ignition switch recall that was recently announced.
Electrical contacts within the ignition switch can wear prematurely, which can eventually cause the engine to stall without warning. When a stall does occur, the engine can normally be restarted immediately. An affected vehicle typically experiences difficulty in starting for a period of time before experiencing any engine stall. Most customers will not experience any problems prior to the repair--less than 3/10ths of one percent of affected vehicles have experienced switch failure. There have been no reports of accidents or injuries related to this issue.
I've already checked with the recall and my car isn't one of those lucky enough to have been. This is sooooo frustrating. Maybe it's some kind of vapor leak or something. It's only when the engine is cold. Doesn't stall while driving.
My 1999 CRV makes a clunking noise in the front when going over bumps. I did some searching on the net and discovered that there was a Honda service bulletin on upper arm flange bolts. The bolts do not properly clamp the upper arm bushings. The solution is to replace the bolts. Just wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem and if it is covered by any warranties.
I ordered and get the breaks pads from HandA. Unfortunately they did not include any instructions (usually they do). I would appreciate if somebody would refer me to the source were I could get such instructions. I want to do the break job myself (this is a matter of self-respect and not 'save a buck' effort). I always did break jobs myself on my previous cars (and proud of it). I examined the breaking system of CR-V, and I understand ,of course, how to handle the job, but I need some additional info like torque values, etc.
I got the right tools and experience but do not have exact SOP. I realize importance of it - that's why I need instructions. It is not complicated (this is not a rocket science), you need to do it yourself only once to learn, and after that it will be easy, but you need to do it right. I did that numerous times on other cars and did not have any problems.
Contact HandA and they will probably FAX instructions if not,www.hondapartsforyou.com in conn. does supply instructions. There number is: 1 800 732 7569.[Fair Honda}. Also, on line Steve Baily Honda I don't remember the internet name so look it up on google they supply downloads on line. Thats how I did my security system on my Accord I downloaded the instructions. You can also check those "cheap" maint. manuals in Pep boys or R&S if they have the latest edition. I know they give torque values and should give you some ideas. Or else get the "real Honda Shop manual" from Helm if you are going to do all the maint. its expensive but worth it.
2001 CRV SE 99700 miles. Just came from the dealer for a last check before going over extend.warr. Please excuse terminology-female . Check engine light off/on for several weeks. Valves didn't check out. Sending in the head to pressure test, something about the cylinder slipping inside. Can y'all help me. Wanna make sure this will be covered by the 100k warr. Not much of a fuel difference-maybe 50 miles less to the tank lately and not noticing anything except a clunk from rear diff that has been going on since I bought this.
I take your post to mean that the honda dealer is running a special test on the cylinders / heads. If you have performed the standard maintenance schedule, I believe that the extended warranty will cover any problems with the engine.
That is a big IF - to qualify for the warranty coverage, you must follow the Honda recommended service intervals, including the major and minor services. It doesn't have to be done by Honda, but you must have documentation of the service being performed.
RE: "One thing, my plug had paint or sealant on it and it caused the washer to stick. I had to use a razor to get it free so i could remove it. "
By the above statement, I think the writer was saying the drain plug had paint or sealant on it causing it to stick to the drain pan. Nothing to do with the oil filter. When did my o/c it was obvious (but not a problem) that the drain plug and crush washer was installed then paint applied. I'm not saying this was a problem. Mine didn't even stick, I just noticed it was black since the new washer was silver.
I had exactly the same experience. The first oil change was done in the shop. Second o/c I did myself and found that plug washer was black like yours (I assume that they did not painted it black during o/c - just left the factory's washer). No harm was done - I replaced it with silver one. But I am thinking (I follow Sabrina9 post) what would happen if they would put a new one on top of old one? Next time when I'll go to that shop I'll ask them - Is it a standard procedure to apply black paint/sealer on washer during o/c? But I doubt that I'll get the truth.
The person was referring to the paint on the filter causing the washer (the "o" ring between the filter and the engine) to stick. He had to get the washer off with a razor blade. I didn't want to quote too much on this forum, sorry it wasn't clear.
if I am understanding correctly it sounds as if you have a burnt valve or a bad valve seat causing a engine misfire that is being detected by the computer but not you. If that sounds about right it should be covered..good luck
Well the mystery was finally solved last week. The minute it began making the noise I went straight to the dealership and got the service manager to ride with me to hear it. I left the car and the next day they found a bolt and washer rolling around inside a round support bar that runs underneath the front seats from the right to left side. The bolt/washer has a nice coat of primer on it with a little red chianti overspray visible. Apparently it was left in there during the manufacture of the body.
Not sure how I feel about it being left in there but at least it's not driving me crazy every time I make a turn.
Good luck out there to all the CR-V owners. I absolutely love my 2004 EX 5spd manual.
I have posted a couple times in the past about my engine fire. I received a copy of the report of the investigator my insurance company hired. They concluded it was a double gasket on the oil filter. This caused a "massive oil leak" that hit the exhaust manifold. The manifold is hot enough to ignite the oil (according to the report).
I forwarded this information to the NHTSA. Found out that they are opening a formal investigation into these problems. The case number has not been assigned yet, but we can look for it in the near future.
Bieker2 - I think Auburn's suggestion sounds about right.
You also mentioned a "clunk" noise from the rear diff since purchase. The most common noise from the rear diff is more like a grinding sound. The problem and solution are both described here. Take a look and see if this matches what you are hearing.
What a shame...Such nice people at Honda. I hope they ask the following questions:
In addition to the ones known, exactly how many engine fires (whatever the cause) are you aware of on every year CRV model, but especially on 02, 03 and 04 models? What was the determined cause? What are the VIN numbers. What have you done to prevent further ones?
Those answers would be good, I think. If they are zero, it should be easy for Honda to release the info, don't you think?
Comments
FYI, I just did the first oil change on my 04 EX this weekend heeding all of the advise previously listed here. Went smooth, but the old filter gasket stuck on filter mount as I expected. It came off easily but I can see people (even dealers) not checking this as it is somewhat blind. My advice it this: WHENEVER YOU BRING YOUR V IN FOR A CHANGE, CAUTION THEM TO DOUBLE CHECK THAT THE OLD FILTER GASKET IS REMOVED. MAKE A HUGE DEAL OUT OUT THIS, TELL THEM IT HAS CAUSED MAJOR PROBLEMS. In my opinion, leaking/spraying oil is probably the culprit to the fires we have heard about here. BTW, the new filters have the same gasket design that can come off the filter. Toyota for example, uses an O ring integrated into the filter metal housing so it can not come off. Honda should do the same
varmint "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" Nov 22, 2003 12:10pm
Thanks,
And I might have made a wrong decision to have this crv. Riding in NY city almost like off-road riding that is not a crv designed for.
By the way, I can hear and feel some metallic noise from breaks (sounds like uneven friction or sticky) when I move my crv out and into my garage at very low speed with lots of breaks. Is this normal for a new car?
What is e-break?
varmint "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" Nov 25, 2003 1:25pm
Stevec10 - How are the tires?
Have you had the rear differential fluid changed? It can cause a low rumbling or grinding sound from the rear end when making a tight turn. If you do it yourself you'll have to get the special "dual pump" fluid from a Honda dealer, as it's neither a transmission fluid nor gear oil.
Good luck.
Your gas mileage will likely improve as your engine breaks in.
regards,
kyfdx
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I did not do any break jobs on my new EX myself yet, but I did a lot on my old cars.
Of course, I may not diagnose your problem on-line. But if you believe that your brakes are 'sticking' there is a good old test for it.
Find an even flat surface like an empty parking lot. Move with low speed, put lever on neutral,
Do not touch the breaks. Car would slowly move until it stop by itself.
If your breaks are 'sticking', at last stopping moment you would feel like a slight pull back
(or kick back). If there are no 'kick back' breaks are o'k. If you are not sure, make this procedure several times after different braking patterns.
Another test: After driving on a highway for a while do not break hard, stop and check the temperature of the rotors. Touch them carefully - they might be very hot. Actually you may moisten your finger with saliva and quickly touch. Normally rotor is warm but not very hot. If rotor is sizzling hot without hard breaking, it might indicate a problem - so watch it for a while and/or contact your dealer.
If problem persists and you ignore it - your rotor might get warped and nothing would help (not even turning it - if crystal structure of metal changed (steel get tempered), rotor need to be replaced. Rotors are made of soft steel ). Warped rotor give you a distinctive pulsating feeling on a break pedal.
Sometimes new breaks are sticking, sometimes old rusty ones (if not used for a while). Old needs cleaning and light greasing the grooves. Sometimes problem would go by itself after new breaks are 'settled'.
HELP!!!!!!!
Anyway, I did a search on Cooper Lifeliners and found some mixed reviews. Some were fine with wet traction, but there were enough complaining about snow and slush to give me pause. The link I mentioned had a few. I did not find test data on Tire Rack, but you might try similar sites for controlled test results.
Longer lasting tires tend to be made with harder rubber compounds. Soft rubber is what you want with a good snow tire. I would start by investigating the tires. While the CR-V is not a perfect snow vehicle, the majority do not find it as "squirrely" as you have described. See if you can find more information about those tires. If you don't find good results, get rid of them before next winter.
I think I've read questions about VINs here in this thread most often.
http://www.ahm-ownerlink.com/maintenance/maint_recalls_show.asp?c- ampaignMasterNo=L55&url=Campaigns%2FL55%2Ehtm
===============================================
May 2002
Recall Campaign: Ignition Switch
Dear Honda Owner:
Your car is affected by the ignition switch recall that was recently announced.
Electrical contacts within the ignition switch can wear prematurely, which can eventually cause the engine to stall without warning. When a stall does occur, the engine can normally be restarted immediately. An affected vehicle typically experiences difficulty in starting for a period of time before experiencing any engine stall. Most customers will not experience any problems prior to the repair--less than 3/10ths of one percent of affected vehicles have experienced switch failure. There have been no reports of accidents or injuries related to this issue.
good luck, hope you figure it out.
http://www.hondalac.com/service/Bulletins/x98-050e.pdf
Unfortunately they did not include any instructions (usually they do). I would appreciate if somebody would refer me to the source were I could get such instructions. I want to do the break job myself (this is a matter of self-respect and not 'save a buck' effort).
I always did break jobs myself on my previous cars (and proud of it). I examined the breaking system of CR-V, and I understand ,of course, how to handle the job, but I need some additional info like torque values, etc.
It's a pretty straightforward job providing you have the right tools and a bit of know how.
You can also check those "cheap" maint. manuals in Pep boys or R&S if they have the latest edition. I know they give torque values and should give you some ideas. Or else get the "real Honda Shop manual" from Helm if you are going to do all the maint. its expensive but worth it.
That is a big IF - to qualify for the warranty coverage, you must follow the Honda recommended service intervals, including the major and minor services. It doesn't have to be done by Honda, but you must have documentation of the service being performed.
"One thing, my plug had paint or sealant on it and it caused the washer to stick. I had to use a razor to get it free so i could remove it. "
Thought you might be interested.
By the above statement, I think the writer was saying the drain plug had paint or sealant on it causing it to stick to the drain pan. Nothing to do with the oil filter. When did my o/c it was obvious (but not a problem) that the drain plug and crush washer was installed then paint applied. I'm not saying this was a problem. Mine didn't even stick, I just noticed it was black since the new washer was silver.
The first oil change was done in the shop.
Second o/c I did myself and found that plug washer was black like yours (I assume that they did not painted it black during o/c - just left the factory's washer). No harm was done - I replaced it with silver one. But I am thinking (I follow Sabrina9 post) what would happen if they would put a new one on top of old one?
Next time when I'll go to that shop I'll ask them - Is it a standard procedure to apply black paint/sealer on washer during o/c?
But I doubt that I'll get the truth.
Not sure how I feel about it being left in there but at least it's not driving me crazy every time I make a turn.
Good luck out there to all the CR-V owners. I absolutely love my 2004 EX 5spd manual.
It was the drain plug washer that had been painted stuck. Good catch!
I forwarded this information to the NHTSA. Found out that they are opening a formal investigation into these problems. The case number has not been assigned yet, but we can look for it in the near future.
You also mentioned a "clunk" noise from the rear diff since purchase. The most common noise from the rear diff is more like a grinding sound. The problem and solution are both described here. Take a look and see if this matches what you are hearing.
varmint "Honda CR-V Owners: FAQ" Nov 22, 2003 12:10pm
I hope they ask the following questions:
In addition to the ones known, exactly how many engine fires (whatever the cause) are you aware of on every year CRV model, but especially on 02, 03 and 04 models? What was the determined cause? What are the VIN numbers. What have you done to prevent further ones?
Those answers would be good, I think. If they are zero, it should be easy for Honda to release the info, don't you think?