Okay, I was told that Modine does not make a radiator for the Classic, only the 2001 and above. I told the guy that folks on this board had put Modines into their cars, he told me I was wrong. So ti be clear, has anybody put in a Modine radiator into a Classic?
Also, how about the Therm Pro brand???
Henri (I now I am obcessing over this radiator thing, but we are talking about my aROARa.)
...for the oil leak info. I had heard that it is a pressurized area and that sooner or later it would bleed enough pressure that the pump might not be able to pump oil into all the upper parts of the engine -- of course, that was from the local caddy dealer.
I'll research it some more on caddyinfo.com. BTW, I do have a messy driveway as well. Guess I'll look for additional leaks...
I need some help. After the ignition is turned off(engine running or not) the TPS solenoid pulses for about 30 seconds then stops. this causes the gas pedal to make a ticking sound. other than this annoyance it runs just fine for a '95 w/165,000 miles on it. Any help would be appreciated, TIA. ,Dan
I noticed earlier in the year when I was changing oil that the bottom of engine was getting very oily. The AC had quit blowing cold also. I took it in to Riley Cadillac in Jefferson City, MO to have it looked at. Well, as it turned out the ac compressor was bad, and had multiple oil leaks on engine. They were case halves, rear main, oil pan gasket, front case seal, and other misc. gaskets. Some of the misc. gaskets weren't actually leaking but would eventually start. Service tech said while the motor is already out, these should really be replaced also, since alot of this job is LABOR.
I had it repaired. Total cost, 936.32 for AC and 1361.59 for oil leaks. I do have warranty with Warranty Wizard. I still had to pay 945.04 out of my own pocket. Warranty Wizard said since some of the repairs weren't mandatory, they would not cover all of the oil leak repairs. Now I would call this preventative maintenance, which was supposed to be covered but was not. When I got warranty, they said, all claims will be paid instantly with credit card. 3 months later, Riley finally got a check after multiple calls by them and me to warranty wizard.
Riley Cadillac treated me very well. Russ Kesel was my contact at the dealer. He even cut some labor costs here and there for me since I was having trouble with my warranty. If your ever near Jeff City and have trouble with your Aurora, stop and see Russ at Riley. If anyone is checking out Warranty Wizard, BEWARE!!! They don't exactly do what they promise!
Larry- Yeah, read up on the oil leak stuff. I found it very useful. Because all a mechnic wants to do is replace all the gaskets once they see any oil, so they scare you into thinking it is necessary. Youve got to think its $2000 for them. Im sure some are ,but its nice to know a little of what your talking about so your not fooled.
buckdog- It sounds like the problem is your ISC motor and not your TPS. Is the device your talking about a round cylindrical motor that has a plunger at the end ? It pushes up against the throttle lever? If so it is the ISC not the TPS. If your not having any idle problems it probably just needs to be adjusted. The ratcheting you hear is the ISC trying to find the throttle lever to set itself up for the next start up. The end of the ISC has a hex head bolt on it that needs to be let out a little. Take a look at it and you will see what I mean. When adjusting it only move it one half of a turn atga time until the ratcheting stops. hope this helps. Oh by the way if you need a new ISC motor it isnt hard to replace and costs around $85.
Thank you! And yes, you are right, it is the ISC that's making the noise. I'll try making the adjustment as soon as I get home. BTW, this is the best board I've ever looked at! Great Posters!
I have this problem too. Please let me know if you are successful in adjusting it and how. Thanks
CLICKING NOISE UNDER DASH OR HOOD #47-60-07 - (12/14/1994) SUBJECT: CLICKING NOISE UNDER DASH OR HOOD (CLEAN AND RELEARN THROTTLE BODY BORE AND BLADE)
MODELS: 1995 CADILLAC CONCOURS, ELDORADO AND SEVILLE WITH 4.6L ENGINE (VINS Y, 9 - RPOS L37, LD8)
1995 OLDSMOBILE AURORA WITH 4.0L ENGINE (VIN C - L47)
CONDITION:
DURING A "KEY ON" OR "KEY OFF," THE ISC MOTOR MAY RATCHET. THE CONDITION MAY BE IDENTIFIED AS A CLICKING NOISE UNDER DASH OR HOOD. THE DURATION OF THIS RATCHETING MAY BE UP TO 20 SECONDS. THE RACHETING CONDITION MAY OCCUR MORE FREQUENTLY WHEN STARTING THE ENGINE COLD OR AT HIGHER ALTITUDES.
CAUSE:
THE ISC MOTOR RATCHETING IS CAUSED WHEN THE MOTOR IS COMMANDED TO EXTEND BEYOND ITS MECHANICAL LIMIT. WHEN THE TP SENSOR LEARN IS CORRECT (AT MINIMUM AIR, THE THROTTLE LEVER RESTS ON THE MINIMUM AIR SCREW) AND THE ISC MAXIMUM EXTEND POSITION IS PROPERLY ADJUSTED, THE MOTOR WILL NOT BE COMMANDED TO MOVE BEYOND THE MECHANICAL LIMIT.
CORRECTION:
THE THROTTLE BODY BORE AND BLADE SHOULD BE CLEANED AND RELEARNED USING THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
IMPORTANT: IF IT IS SUSPECTED THAT THE ISC MAXIMUM EXTEND POSITION HAD BEEN ADJUSTED WITHOUT CLEANING THE BORE, IT SHOULD BE CHECKED AND READJUSTED IF REQUIRED. CLEANING THE THROTTLE BORE SHOULD BE PERFORMED BEFORE PERFORMING THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM CHECKING PROCEDURE.
THROTTLE BODY CLEANING PROCEDURE
**REMOVE OR DISCONNECT** AIR INTAKE DUCT FROM THROTTLE BODY.
**INSPECT** THROTTLE BODY BORE AND THROTTLE VALVE PLATE FOR DEPOSITS. IT IS NECESSARY TO OPEN THE THROTTLE VALVE TO INSPECT ALL SURFACES.
**CLEAN** THROTTLE BODY BORE AND THROTTLE VALVE PLATE USING A CLEAN SHOP TOWEL WITH GM TOP ENGINE CLEANER, P/N 1052626 OR AC-DELCO CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CONDITIONER, P/N X66-P, OR EQUIVALENT PRODUCT.
NOTICE: DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENT THAT CONTAINS METHYL ETHYL KETONE (MEK). THIS SOLVENT MAY DAMAGE FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS.
FOR G-CAR: **INSTALL OR CONNECT** 1. AIR INTAKE DUCT AT THROTTLE BODY. 2. RUN TECH 1 TP SENSOR AND IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE.
FOR E, K, AND/OR K-SPECIAL: **INSTALL OR CONNECT** 1. AIR INTAKE DUCT AT THROTTLE BODY. 2. ENTER DIAGNOSTICS; SELECT PCM OVERRIDE PS13. 3. PRESS THE "COOLER" BUTTON. 4. KEY "OFF" FOR 30 SECONDS (DO NOT EXIT DIAGNOSTICS). 5. PERFORM TP SENSOR/IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE: LABOR OPERATION: J5480 LABOR TIME: .9 HRS.
FIGURES: 0 ATTACHMENTS: 0
GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION. SEE A GENERAL MOTORS DEALER SERVICING YOUR BRAND OF GENERAL MOTORS VEHICLE FOR INFORMATION ON WHETHER YOUR VEHICLE MAY BENEFIT FROM THE INFORMATION.
COPYRIGHT 1994. GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
1. Turn key to on position then off position. wait 20 seconds. 2. Turn key to on position then off position. wait 20 seconds. 3. Turn key to on position then off position. wait 20 seconds. Your done.
When doing this dont start engine. Just turn key to the on position. This will relearn your TPS settings. I do this from time to time when my idle seems a little off. It seems to help. It should always be done after you work on the throttle body, ISC, TPS.
It sounds like you have alot of experience with these Auroras. Just did what you said, turned it out 1/2 a turn and the problem went away. Since I had to take the air cleaner snorkel off I saw that the throttle body was really dirty(butterfly and past). My carb cleaner is not recommended for fuel injected engines so it will get cleaned another day. Next delima, the ABS and Traction-control lights stay on. Because of this, I read in the service manual, that this is why the cruise control probably also isn't working. I sure could use any advice as to where to start looking for the source of the problem.
kayaman, thanks for the throttle click fix, appreciated. I checked out your car on cardomain, looks sharp. On the intake is that a kit? If so which one and was it easy to go on or did it require some customization. I like the chrome tips too.
I have a "V" rating on the door panel for the tires. What does this mean? I heard this could be a Autobhan package. What does Autobhan package refer to? Also, there's no build sticker on the door panel that I can find. All I know the car was bought in Nov. '94. How would I know if the wire harness upgrade has been done? TIA.
,Dan
ps- It's going to be a smoker here in MI today 90 deg.+
Wish I knew this TPS relearn procedure a year ago! My '95 was not only doing the same thing, but would actually drive itself at 40 MPH or so down the road w/ the accelerator pedal tapping the bottom of my foot as it went.
I took it to the local caddy dealer. The said they did a "relearn" procedure on the idle speed motor - which I'm sure is the bulletin above - and charged me $150. DAMN!
I know how frustrating it is to get good info for these cars so I try to help when I can. I am no mechanic by any means, but I bought my Aurora in 2001 and since then I have read every piece of info I could get my hands on. And filtered through what was good and bad info. Also I would recomend getting the Helm inc. repair manual. This is the manual that the GM repair shops use. It costs $120 , but it has saved me thousands already.
buckdog---- Your ABS/traction light is probably going to cost you a little dough. 9 times out of 10 it is the wheel speed sensor. It is attached to the front wheel bearing so you have to change the whole bearing to fix it. In order to find out which one it is you have to get it scanned, but for like $90. What I chose to do on mine was skip the scan and just have both bearings replaced. This is one of the times that I dont recomend AC-Delco parts because they are way over priced for the bearings. I purchased bearings (brand name is [non-permissible content removed]) from global4autoparts.com for around $125 each. I then had my mechanic put them on for me for around $100. So I got my bearings replaced for around $350. The dealer will charge you around $700-$900 for this repair. Regarding your door sticker. If you have v rated tires you more than likely have the Autobahn package. This means you have a tranny that is geared lower to give you more acceleration. Also you dont have a speed limiter at 110mph. Instead yours is at 140mph. An easy way to find out for sure is to get on a nice piece of open highway and keep your car steady at 2000 RPM. If you have the Autobahn you will be going 62 MPH. If you dont have the Autobahn you will be going 66 MPH. Or just see if your car goes 130 MPH.
eric----The intake is from RSMracing.com. It fits perfectly with no alterations. The heat shield I bought seperately from a web site called ptuning.com. it is just a universal heatshield made by Injen Technologies that fits perfectly. Total cost was about $250. The intake will give you a very nice growl under the hood and give you better top end acceleration. It does decrease your low end though. It depends on where you want your speed. I prefer to have better low end acceleration so I took it off and just put in a K&N drop in filter. If anyone is interested in buying my Intake send me an e-mail to discuss it. ekasprzyk@supfr.com .
One more tip for new Aurora owners. When changing plugs and wires stay with the OEM AC Delcos. You can use aftermarkets if you want , and they may work, but tons of people have problems when they use aftermakets. So dont take the chance and stay with the OEM's on this one. These engines are very touchy when it comes to spark and its not worth the risk. I tried Bosch at one time and my car developerd a crazy misfire. Put in the Delcos and all was good. Numerous people have this same story.
I heard the thing about spark plugs before. I thought it was crap. I'll take your word for it though. I was about to put bosch platinum +4's in it. About the intake. Do you mean that you left the intake inplace and just put a cone filter on the end or did you reinstall the factory airbox?
Thanks.
Oh and to everyone, I have a friend at GM that lets me use his computer to look up GM bulletins. I've been watching the problems on here and if they ring a bell I'll post any bulletin GM has that applys.
Has anyone done a Flush & Fill DIY? What process did you follow? Did you cut the heater core or just drop something from the radiator. Any tips or advice would be greatly appreciated. I need to try to flush my system to identify any clogs in it.
Also, on my thermostat issue. It's been out for about 4 days. The car seems fine but it takes slightly longer then normal to get to operating temp. I also worry that the coolant might be moving too fast. However, there is still alot of pressure in my system.
Anyway I went to Advanced Auto Parts (partsamerica.com) and purchased a new thermostat. As soon as I saw it I realized that it was much larger. The wide open clearance looks to be about 54MM versus the old one that was in my car was 10MM. I'm not sure if your cars have the same tstat because mine might be an aftermarket, but you might want to check it out if your having cooling problems. The new Tstat also appears to be alot more heavy duty in construction. I tested my old one w/ a candy thermo and it didn't open till 200 degrees. The one that GM reccomends is a 180.
I'm gonna try to put it in sometime this weekend. I'll let you all know if it solves any issues.
If anyone has a moment tell me what your cars compare to my old temps. I just wanna know if I should even worry about it.
Old TSTAT Temps ---------------- 235 Slow Traffic/Hot day/Extreme 205 Highway 210-220 Regular driving
No Tstat Temps -------------- 220 Slow Traffic/Hot day/Extreme 180 Highway 205 Regular driving
I reinstalled my original air-box with a K&N replacement filter. I only used the RSM chrome intake for about 2 months.
Bosch +4's are what I used. After a short time I developed a terrible misfire. Took it to the dealer and once they seen I had Bosch plugs they said that was the problem. They said they get a lot of business thanks to Bosch and other aftermakets.
My temps seem to resemble your no Tstat temps. Although since I have been researching the running temps lately myself. They seem to range from 190 to 240 under any conditions. So ive come to the conclusion that anything in the normal range is ok. And the temps from car to car are never the same. Dont be too worried the Northstar engine runs hotter then most other engines. Unless your in the red I wouldnt worry.
No reds yet besides when I originally got the car, I lost the water pump belt. But since that repair no reds. However, I'm somewhat affraid to let it idle long enough to hit red. The lonest idle i've done w/ it was 10-15 minutes @ 225 w/ no thermostat. The hottest it has been was ona hot day in slow traffic @ 235. I guess I just need to let it idle and see what happens.
I need a new battery for my 95 classic. First start in the morning has some hesitation when I turn the key to start and about 1 second later will turn over and start fine. I believe that I still have the original battery installed so I cant complain.
Just called the dealer and they want $120 for replacement battery plus $40 installation charge. They say that the original GROUP 76 battery has been superceded by the GROUP 79 battery.
What kind of battery should I get for a replacement? Concerned about battery inside the passenger compartment with fumes etc.. How about Optima style dry cell?
Havent had much luck finding a cheap battery below $100. I still have the original in my 95 and it works great. I want to change it though just because of age and before my luck runs out. GM did put great batteries in the Aurora. I wouldnt pay $40 for them to install it though. It is very easy to do yourself. Im courious to hear if anyone found cheap batteries also.
I haven't found anyone else making a battery for the Aurora or Riviera other than Delco. Probably too few installed base.
You might try calling a couple of Olds and Buick dealers. One of my co-workers belongs to a couple of classic car clubs, and, using his name, I was able to get a discount (10% above cost). Something to check out...
I have a solution. My cars battery went too and I would have been willing to put the stock battery in it but I couldn't get it anywhere for 3 days! Well I had to work so I made a small modification.
All you really need is a high cold cranking amp battery that has sulfer exhaust on it. If you remove your seat you'll notice your battery is there. It is about 2-3 inches longer then a standard battery about maybe an inch or two taller. Other then the size and cranking AMPS its no different then an off the shelf battery.
Here are the things you need to look for.
1.) Nothing bigger then 13 long, 6 wide, and 9 high. The closest to this size the better. Any battery will work as it mounts with a standard clamp/bolt bracket.
2.) A battery with sulfer exhaust. Since these batterys are inside the car the sulfer that can build up inside the battery has to find a way to exhaust. If you look at the battery beneath your seat there are two tubes coming out of the sides on top. these are directed to the floor board and out the car. You must have a battery that has these.
3.) Side mounts, The battery can have top mounts as well but it has to have side mounts for hook ups. Make sure you get one that has caps over the top mount connectors so that contact will not be made with the seat.
4.)Cold cranking AMPS Get the highest you can. The battery in the car calls for 970. You can probably get away with anything more then 800 but the more the better. Please do not confuse this with regular AMPS These are hungry cars.
The battery that I got was from Walmart for $59.99. It was an Everstart Extreme MAXX 78 or 1N. I can't completely remember. This was the biggest, highest cranking side mount battery with exhaust. I had to modify the tubing a bit on the exhaust. I removed the clamp mount and bolt from the battery. The battery is very heavy and might still feel as if it is attached because of the akward position. I found it best to put a foot in the car and lift up. This is a very heavy battery. I then set the new battery in place and mounted it, then connected the leads. The final step was modifying the tubing exhaust. I just pushed the tubes over the exhaust holes on the new battery. They fit well because it is the same fitting that the old battery has. The only downside is that the new battery isn't as long, you will have to bunch up the tubes a bit to make it fit. I then took some regular PVC tubing from a hardware store, about 1 foot and routed an extention to the battery. Do not bend the tubbing! Just let it ride up over the battery. Be careful putting the seat back in. I plan to try to shorten the tubing so it fits the new battery better this weekend. I'll try to snap a picture of it for everyones reference. This battery has been working strong for about a month for me. Hopefully it works for you.
Oh and by the way the walmart battery has a 3 year exchange warranty on it. So even if the lower CCA concerns you, you could always replace the battery free if it goes again. I would imagine this would take some time.
I had the Aurora scaned for trouble codes, hopeing for a reason why the ABS & Trac control lights are on. I got no connection to the Sun Diagnostic meter. Mechanic said it could be a fault in the ABS system(just guessing). Now what? Might just go ahead and do the front wheel bearings. If the rears are bad, could this be also causing the problem?
I had a similar problem on 96 regal before my Aurora. It threw the ABS at me alot. It was the front wheel speed sensors. I heard this a really common problem on all GM makes and models. The sensors cost me about $30.00 altogether. Might want to check them first.
They are related to ABS as the ABS system needs them to sense wheel speed to apply proper breaking response.
I also tried to have AutoZone code test my car. They couldn't link. I guess because our cars are OBD II or something? Most their scanners only work on GM 96 an above. They used a bright orange scanner. Not sure what brand.
Just posting an image on the differences in the two tstats. I made some notes on the images to point out the differences. Anyone running hot might want to consider a better thermostat. It was $13.88 @ partsamerica.com. I'm putting it in this weekend. I will let you know if it cools my car down.
Once again anyone who has done a radiator flush on these cars I would LOVE some advice. The heater core hoses look hard to get too. I am mainly concerned with where you tapped the system and what direction you flushed it in. I believe you are supposed to flush away from the water pump. Any help would be very very appreciated.
It looks like I got a week-end project ahead of me. Rippin the front end apart.
BTW, did you check the tstat before you installed it?
Drop it in a pot of boiling water with a candy thermometer. I've gotten bad ones rite off the shelf at the parts store. There's nothing like havin to do the job twice. haha!
No codes came up before I changed my bearings either. Once I changed them. All was well. And since you definately have a problem , the bearings are the most likely candidate. Too bad you cant just buy the sensors seperate. one more thing was after I changed my bearings I noticed my car drove a lot smoother. Especially on the highway.
eric-definately post back if that new tstat makes your rora run cooler.
According to the GM service manual- there is no recomendations for flushing the rad. They just say there are many flush kits on the market and follow their instructions. one thing they do say is remove the tstat for the flush.
BIG NOTE: They do have a spicific start up procedure! 1. Set the heater and a/c control to any pos. except MAX 2. Set the temp to the highest setting 3. Allow the engine to idle till lower rad hose to coolant pump hose gets hot 4. Cycle the engine RPM up to 3000 and back 5 times 6. On the VIN 1 engines open the bleed off valve on the back of the tstat housing for about 15 sec. until the air gets out of the coolant system. 7. Fill radiator all the way up 8. Install pressure cap
Autozone said that they will match Murray's price, so I'm going there. Timken is IMO a better bearing. They also got the hub puller I can rent for free, $20 deposit.
Anybody know what size socket I'll need for axle nut?
Did the job- and everything is fixed (execpt cruise control). It looked like the wheel seal in the back of the hub was leaking. This might of allowed water and other stuff to get in there. There was all kinds of crud all over the spider gear. I think it was the original hub assy, pretty ruff looking. Theres no more jiggle in the front end when I hit bumps in the road. Runs real good now. I also found out it's a real ripper. I got the Autobahn package. At 2000 RPM she is doing 60 MPH. My neighbor would love to take it for a spin, he had his hands all over her. I found out he helped launch the '95 model during inital production starup at the Orion plant here in MI.
My big problem is I bought this for my 15 year old twin girls to drive. It's to damn fast. They just got their drivers permit. Neighbor suggested putting a govener on it. Think I'll just pull 4 of the plug wires off,HAHALOL.
I think that might be the one that arrived on my doorstep today (fed ex) if it's the same one it's made by visteon. Now don't tell your Aurora but Visteon is a Ford co. just like AC Delco is G.M.! The old radiator is already out. I see the old aftermarket radiator needed adaptors for the heater hoses that significantly restricted the flow. Now I Know why it seemed to take longer for the heater to blow warm even though the car warmed up more quickly. I also see that all the foam that the factory used to seal the original radiator to the car was discarded by the shop. I also see where they cracked the airconditioning tube that wrapped around the end of the radiator. You can see the shiny marks where they forced the radiator past and the tiny crack in the metal tube at that point.
Glad to hear your problems were fixed. Where should I send the bill for my diagnostic charges? JK LOL. I dont think you are going to be giving the Aurora to your daughters anytime soon. Your soon to be addicted. Isnt it amazing how nice the classic Auroras are even back in 95. Everytime someone sees or rides in my Aurora I have to prove to them that it is a 95. These cars were well ahead of thier time.
Well guys here are my initial results on the Thermostat change. I didn't get to flush the radiator. Not enough time this weekend. Here is how it went. Installation was of course a piece of cake. I was in and out and 15 minutes. Only downside was that you lose alot of antifreeze. About 7 quarts to be exact. This is an easy but messy job. After I buttoned everything back up things followed this time line
0-5 Minutes Idling --------------------- Car came to normal operating temp of about 180-200
5-10 --------------------- Began testing the card hard. Cycled motor from 0-3500 RPM's about 5 times. Then watched for results. Car rose to approximately 210.
10-15 --------------------- Let the car continue to idle. Checked tstat housing for leaks, bone dry.
15-20 --------------------- Idled at around 210-215
20-25 ---------------------- Cycled motor 0-3500 RPM's about 5 times. Watched for results. Reached 220. Fans engaged temp dropped to 215.
25-30 ----------------------- Flipped on air, cycled car with air on. Temps rose to about 225-230. Continued running air.
30-35 ----------------------- Idled w/ air about 225
35-40 ----------------------- Turned off air. Temp dropped to approx 218. Shut off engine at 40 minutes.
All total the car idled for about 40 minutes w/ intermittent testing and air conditioning w/o forced air into the radiator. Something that normally heats this car up. I can tell it has definitely improved. It is still too early to determine if it has solved all my problems.
Tommorow will be the true test as I am sure repeated driving, running the air and temps in the 80-90s will have their own impact. Hopefully the forced air into the radiator will balance this all out. It is only about 70 degrees out tonight and I did begin testing from a rather cool engine. I'll let you guys know what goes down tommorow.
In the mean time please take a sec and let me know what you think. 40 minutes at an idle w/ 225 as max temp? A hot aurora or a normal aurora? Your thoughts are GREATLY appreciated.
Hi everyone! I hope I can show my face in here now. <grin> I have a friend with a 96 Aurora that has a strange oil leak so I thought I would post it and see. He has about 64000 miles and the car sat for about 6 weeks until he could get a new transmission. I think shop wanted close to $3000 to replace it. Anyway last month when he jacked the car up he noticed a u - shaped puddle of oil on the floor that looks like the shape of the oil pan. He got the transmission replaced and has been driving around for about a month now with no leak. He brought the car into the dealer to get a shifting problem fixed and the dealer stated he had an oil leak. They wanted around 2000 to fix but the car has not leaked since then. He said he pressure washed the bottom of the engine and it hasnt leaked since. Does he still need to get the leak fixed or leave it alone? Any ideas? Thanks!
Buckdog---Did you do the TPS relearn after the cleaning ? It is nessecary after you clean the TB if you didnt. If you did there is also an idle learn procedure that might help. Here it goes:
1. Let car idle till it reaches operating temp. 2. Let car idle 5 min. at this temp. 3. Bring RPM to over 3500 a few times. 4. Put car in drive w/brake applied. Hold it for at least two minutes. Your done.
If this doesnt work make sure the ISC is adjusted properly. You might have turned the screw too far out. Remember it is very touchy so only turn it 1/2 turn at a time. The only other thing I can think of is you might have damaged the MAF during the cleaning. Youre not supposed to get any carb spray on it because it can damage it.
Dave---Read back a few posts. We just spoke about the case half oil leak. Sounds like this is what your buddy has. Page 54.
Okay guys, looks like I'm up to the plate this time...My power windows stopped working for me about a month ago. I stopped over at my parents house for dinner (of course) and when I got back into the car that night, none of the windows would work.
Well, I finally had time to dig around yesterday and my guess is that I have a bad ground somewhere in there. As I understand it, when the driver's switch loses power, they all do. When my brother and I got behind the door we were able to close the cirut with his voltage meter and the ground wire. He put one end in the ground wire and I put the other end on a decent grounding spot...and what do you know? The windows worked. Easy enough, right? Now I have to find where the switch actually grounds in the car.
Jay and I have poured over the manuals and saw where they say the wire should be grounded...but when we got in there everything looked fine. We should be getting a good ground but are not. Anyone have any other bright ideas as to where the ground could be going bad? The switch is getting power, we know that...and we were able to get it to work with the rigged up volt meter, but I really don't want to take the whole thing apart to get at a frayed wire somewhere. Anyone dealt with this problem, or have any suggestions? Thanks! -Brian
I've been getting this funny sensation while cruising the last day or two. I have been getting that funny drop in idle at stoplights, but my car never stalls...just drops to 400 RPMs then back up to about 700 every couple of seconds. Very rhythmically...kinda like clockwork. Then when I accelerate, I don't notice anything. She runs just fine. But as soon as I get up to speed and cruise, I get this jolting feeling. It feels like I suddenly lose power, just for a split second...then it comes back. It does this so methodically that I almost mistake it for an unbalanced tire...and it is that noticable.
I have changed the EGR in the last 6 months, I was wondering if this was similar to what you guys with FPR problems or bad plugs/wires felt. I have a hard time believeing that my EGR went out in the last 4 months..but I am open to anything.
You'd think she would treat me better right now...what with the new wheels I just bought. Oh well, you know women :-)
I must of dammaged the MAF sensor. What does it do, and where is it on a '95? It's got to be in a remote location with some tubes going to it. is it a big $$$ item? Does carb cleaner dammage MAF's?
That relearn didn't do it. Still idles about 1100RPM
From everything I've researched I don't see one on my car. It looks like it should be located between the throtle body and the air cleaner snorkle. I have nothing of the sort. When I cleaned the throtle body I just opened the butterfly and shot cleaner in there. Then I wiped out all kinds of black junk. Then shot more on there, also shot some in with the motor running.
Now the idle is all messed up, not responcive at all. I push down on the gas pedal and let off quickly. and the RPM falls slowly taking its sweet old time. And wont drop below 1100 RPM
I drove to work this morn. and it still was idleing high. As soon as I got into a parking spot I did the relearn, AND NOW my idle is back to where it's supposed to be 650 RPM!
What a frickin learning experance Have a good day all! ,DAN
buckdog---Glad to hear your problem is fixed for now. The MAF is actually connected to the TB on the Aurora. It is that round thing right in front of the throttle blade. most people dont actually spay the cleaner in becasue of this . So next time just use a rag or toothbrush to clean the TB and dont spray it in. Or remove the MAF. The MAF detects the air going into the intake. If the MAF is screwed up the car cant tell how much air is getting in and of course that messes up all sorts of stuff.
stickking1---Sounds like classic plug wire problem. Or a bad coil. Do you have aftermaket plugs or wires?
What was happening was after my 95 Aurora warmed up my A/C would cycle every 8 seconds. The A/C place who recently replaced my compressor and evaporator replaced this switch and now all is working fine.
By the way I enjoy and learn a lot from all of your comments. This has help me diagnose most of my issues seeing that most of the problems with these cars are common problems.
Thanks! I guess I should have read the posts. Its almost scary it sounds exactly like his problem. I asked him this afternoon and his car is not leaking a drop!
Good, Like I said I cleaned the bottom of my engine months ago and it is still totally clean. I think it just takes a very long time for the oil to accumulate enough to see it. Which just shows it is a seepage leak and not a pressurized leak. I can deal with a little oil and save a couple grand. IMO
Have you checked grounds beneath the seat? I don't think they would ground the switch anywhere on the door. I could be wrong though. I know a common place for grounds is under the carpet by the drivers and passengers kick panel. I also know that there are 3 or 4 grounds on the motor in the engine compartment. Theres also a couple under the rear seat with the battery and all the relays. Maybe its grounded here??
Comments
Also, how about the Therm Pro brand???
Henri
(I now I am obcessing over this radiator thing, but we are talking about my aROARa.)
Thanks for your info. I'll have my mechanic take a look at this. At least we know one place to bein to look to sort this out.
I thought it was mechanical, but 'boot up' seemed to describe the behavior best!
thanks again,
PAS
I'll research it some more on caddyinfo.com. BTW, I do have a messy driveway as well. Guess I'll look for additional leaks...
,Dan
I had it repaired. Total cost, 936.32 for AC and 1361.59 for oil leaks. I do have warranty with Warranty Wizard. I still had to pay 945.04 out of my own pocket. Warranty Wizard said since some of the repairs weren't mandatory, they would not cover all of the oil leak repairs. Now I would call this preventative maintenance, which was supposed to be covered but was not. When I got warranty, they said, all claims will be paid instantly with credit card. 3 months later, Riley finally got a check after multiple calls by them and me to warranty wizard.
Riley Cadillac treated me very well. Russ Kesel was my contact at the dealer. He even cut some labor costs here and there for me since I was having trouble with my warranty. If your ever near Jeff City and have trouble with your Aurora, stop and see Russ at Riley. If anyone is checking out Warranty Wizard, BEWARE!!! They don't exactly do what they promise!
buckdog- It sounds like the problem is your ISC motor and not your TPS. Is the device your talking about a round cylindrical motor that has a plunger at the end ? It pushes up against the throttle lever? If so it is the ISC not the TPS. If your not having any idle problems it probably just needs to be adjusted. The ratcheting you hear is the ISC trying to find the throttle lever to set itself up for the next start up. The end of the ISC has a hex head bolt on it that needs to be let out a little. Take a look at it and you will see what I mean. When adjusting it only move it one half of a turn atga time until the ratcheting stops. hope this helps. Oh by the way if you need a new ISC motor it isnt hard to replace and costs around $85.
Thanks again
,Dan
ps. I just bought this car Sunday
CLICKING NOISE UNDER DASH OR HOOD #47-60-07 - (12/14/1994)
SUBJECT: CLICKING NOISE UNDER DASH OR HOOD (CLEAN AND RELEARN THROTTLE BODY BORE AND BLADE)
MODELS: 1995 CADILLAC CONCOURS, ELDORADO AND SEVILLE WITH 4.6L ENGINE (VINS Y, 9 - RPOS L37, LD8)
1995 OLDSMOBILE AURORA WITH 4.0L ENGINE (VIN C - L47)
CONDITION:
DURING A "KEY ON" OR "KEY OFF," THE ISC MOTOR MAY RATCHET. THE CONDITION MAY BE IDENTIFIED AS A CLICKING NOISE UNDER DASH OR HOOD. THE DURATION OF THIS RATCHETING MAY BE UP TO 20 SECONDS. THE RACHETING CONDITION MAY OCCUR MORE FREQUENTLY WHEN STARTING THE ENGINE COLD OR AT HIGHER ALTITUDES.
CAUSE:
THE ISC MOTOR RATCHETING IS CAUSED WHEN THE MOTOR IS COMMANDED TO EXTEND BEYOND ITS MECHANICAL LIMIT. WHEN THE TP SENSOR LEARN IS CORRECT (AT MINIMUM AIR, THE THROTTLE LEVER RESTS ON THE MINIMUM AIR SCREW) AND THE ISC MAXIMUM EXTEND POSITION IS PROPERLY ADJUSTED, THE MOTOR WILL NOT BE COMMANDED TO MOVE BEYOND THE MECHANICAL LIMIT.
CORRECTION:
THE THROTTLE BODY BORE AND BLADE SHOULD BE CLEANED AND RELEARNED USING THE FOLLOWING PROCEDURE:
IMPORTANT: IF IT IS SUSPECTED THAT THE ISC MAXIMUM EXTEND POSITION HAD BEEN ADJUSTED WITHOUT CLEANING THE BORE, IT SHOULD BE CHECKED AND READJUSTED IF REQUIRED. CLEANING THE THROTTLE BORE SHOULD BE PERFORMED BEFORE PERFORMING THE IDLE SPEED CONTROL SYSTEM CHECKING PROCEDURE.
THROTTLE BODY CLEANING PROCEDURE
**REMOVE OR DISCONNECT** AIR INTAKE DUCT FROM THROTTLE BODY.
**INSPECT** THROTTLE BODY BORE AND THROTTLE VALVE PLATE FOR DEPOSITS. IT IS NECESSARY TO OPEN THE THROTTLE VALVE TO INSPECT ALL SURFACES.
**CLEAN** THROTTLE BODY BORE AND THROTTLE VALVE PLATE USING A CLEAN SHOP TOWEL WITH GM TOP ENGINE CLEANER, P/N 1052626 OR AC-DELCO CARBURETOR TUNE-UP CONDITIONER, P/N X66-P, OR EQUIVALENT PRODUCT.
NOTICE: DO NOT USE ANY SOLVENT THAT CONTAINS METHYL ETHYL KETONE (MEK). THIS SOLVENT MAY DAMAGE FUEL SYSTEM COMPONENTS.
FOR G-CAR: **INSTALL OR CONNECT** 1. AIR INTAKE DUCT AT THROTTLE BODY. 2. RUN TECH 1 TP SENSOR AND IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE.
FOR E, K, AND/OR K-SPECIAL: **INSTALL OR CONNECT** 1. AIR INTAKE DUCT AT THROTTLE BODY. 2. ENTER DIAGNOSTICS; SELECT PCM OVERRIDE PS13. 3. PRESS THE "COOLER" BUTTON. 4. KEY "OFF" FOR 30 SECONDS (DO NOT EXIT DIAGNOSTICS). 5. PERFORM TP SENSOR/IDLE LEARN PROCEDURE.
WARRANTY INFORMATION:
FOR VEHICLES REPAIRED UNDER WARRANTY, USE: LABOR OPERATION: J5480 LABOR TIME: .9 HRS.
FIGURES: 0 ATTACHMENTS: 0
GENERAL MOTORS BULLETINS ARE INTENDED FOR USE BY PROFESSIONAL TECHNICIANS, NOT A "DO-IT-YOURSELFER". THEY ARE WRITTEN TO INFORM THOSE TECHNICIANS OF CONDITIONS THAT MAY OCCUR ON SOME VEHICLES, OR TO PROVIDE INFORMATION THAT COULD ASSIST IN THE PROPER SERVICE OF A VEHICLE. PROPERLY TRAINED TECHNICIANS HAVE THE EQUIPMENT, TOOLS, SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS AND KNOW-HOW TO DO A JOB PROPERLY AND SAFELY. IF A CONDITION IS DESCRIBED, DO NOT ASSUME THAT THE BULLETIN APPLIES TO YOUR VEHICLE, OR THAT YOUR VEHICLE WILL HAVE THAT CONDITION. SEE A GENERAL MOTORS DEALER SERVICING YOUR BRAND OF GENERAL MOTORS VEHICLE FOR INFORMATION ON WHETHER YOUR VEHICLE MAY BENEFIT FROM THE INFORMATION.
COPYRIGHT 1994. GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.
1. Turn key to on position then off position. wait 20 seconds.
2. Turn key to on position then off position. wait 20 seconds.
3. Turn key to on position then off position. wait 20 seconds. Your done.
When doing this dont start engine. Just turn key to the on position. This will relearn your TPS settings. I do this from time to time when my idle seems a little off. It seems to help. It should always be done after you work on the throttle body, ISC, TPS.
http://members.cardomain.com/kayaman420
Next delima, the ABS and Traction-control lights stay on. Because of this, I read in the service manual, that this is why the cruise control probably also isn't working. I sure could use any advice as to where to start looking for the source of the problem.
Thanks in advance for any info.
,Dan
ps- It's going to be a smoker here in MI today 90 deg.+
I took it to the local caddy dealer. The said they did a "relearn" procedure on the idle speed motor - which I'm sure is the bulletin above - and charged me $150. DAMN!
buckdog---- Your ABS/traction light is probably going to cost you a little dough. 9 times out of 10 it is the wheel speed sensor. It is attached to the front wheel bearing so you have to change the whole bearing to fix it. In order to find out which one it is you have to get it scanned, but for like $90. What I chose to do on mine was skip the scan and just have both bearings replaced. This is one of the times that I dont recomend AC-Delco parts because they are way over priced for the bearings. I purchased bearings (brand name is [non-permissible content removed]) from global4autoparts.com for around $125 each. I then had my mechanic put them on for me for around $100. So I got my bearings replaced for around $350. The dealer will charge you around $700-$900 for this repair. Regarding your door sticker. If you have v rated tires you more than likely have the Autobahn package. This means you have a tranny that is geared lower to give you more acceleration. Also you dont have a speed limiter at 110mph. Instead yours is at 140mph. An easy way to find out for sure is to get on a nice piece of open highway and keep your car steady at 2000 RPM. If you have the Autobahn you will be going 62 MPH. If you dont have the Autobahn you will be going 66 MPH. Or just see if your car goes 130 MPH.
eric----The intake is from RSMracing.com. It fits perfectly with no alterations. The heat shield I bought seperately from a web site called ptuning.com. it is just a universal heatshield made by Injen Technologies that fits perfectly. Total cost was about $250. The intake will give you a very nice growl under the hood and give you better top end acceleration. It does decrease your low end though. It depends on where you want your speed. I prefer to have better low end acceleration so I took it off and just put in a K&N drop in filter. If anyone is interested in buying my Intake send me an e-mail to discuss it. ekasprzyk@supfr.com .
One more tip for new Aurora owners. When changing plugs and wires stay with the OEM AC Delcos. You can use aftermarkets if you want , and they may work, but tons of people have problems when they use aftermakets. So dont take the chance and stay with the OEM's on this one. These engines are very touchy when it comes to spark and its not worth the risk. I tried Bosch at one time and my car developerd a crazy misfire. Put in the Delcos and all was good. Numerous people have this same story.
About the intake. Do you mean that you left the intake inplace and just put a cone filter on the end or did you reinstall the factory airbox?
Thanks.
Oh and to everyone, I have a friend at GM that lets me use his computer to look up GM bulletins. I've been watching the problems on here and if they ring a bell I'll post any bulletin GM has that applys.
Also, on my thermostat issue. It's been out for about 4 days. The car seems fine but it takes slightly longer then normal to get to operating temp. I also worry that the coolant might be moving too fast. However, there is still alot of pressure in my system.
Anyway I went to Advanced Auto Parts (partsamerica.com) and purchased a new thermostat. As soon as I saw it I realized that it was much larger. The wide open clearance looks to be about 54MM versus the old one that was in my car was 10MM. I'm not sure if your cars have the same tstat because mine might be an aftermarket, but you might want to check it out if your having cooling problems. The new Tstat also appears to be alot more heavy duty in construction. I tested my old one w/ a candy thermo and it didn't open till 200 degrees. The one that GM reccomends is a 180.
I'm gonna try to put it in sometime this weekend. I'll let you all know if it solves any issues.
If anyone has a moment tell me what your cars compare to my old temps. I just wanna know if I should even worry about it.
Old TSTAT Temps
----------------
235 Slow Traffic/Hot day/Extreme
205 Highway
210-220 Regular driving
No Tstat Temps
--------------
220 Slow Traffic/Hot day/Extreme
180 Highway
205 Regular driving
Bosch +4's are what I used. After a short time I developed a terrible misfire. Took it to the dealer and once they seen I had Bosch plugs they said that was the problem. They said they get a lot of business thanks to Bosch and other aftermakets.
My temps seem to resemble your no Tstat temps. Although since I have been researching the running temps lately myself. They seem to range from 190 to 240 under any conditions. So ive come to the conclusion that anything in the normal range is ok. And the temps from car to car are never the same. Dont be too worried the Northstar engine runs hotter then most other engines. Unless your in the red I wouldnt worry.
Thanks again,
Just called the dealer and they want $120 for replacement battery plus $40 installation charge. They say that the original GROUP 76 battery has been superceded by the GROUP 79 battery.
What kind of battery should I get for a replacement? Concerned about battery inside the passenger compartment with fumes etc.. How about Optima style dry cell?
You might try calling a couple of Olds and Buick dealers. One of my co-workers belongs to a couple of classic car clubs, and, using his name, I was able to get a discount (10% above cost). Something to check out...
--Robert
All you really need is a high cold cranking amp battery that has sulfer exhaust on it. If you remove your seat you'll notice your battery is there. It is about 2-3 inches longer then a standard battery about maybe an inch or two taller. Other then the size and cranking AMPS its no different then an off the shelf battery.
Here are the things you need to look for.
1.) Nothing bigger then 13 long, 6 wide, and 9 high. The closest to this size the better. Any battery will work as it mounts with a standard clamp/bolt bracket.
2.) A battery with sulfer exhaust. Since these batterys are inside the car the sulfer that can build up inside the battery has to find a way to exhaust. If you look at the battery beneath your seat there are two tubes coming out of the sides on top. these are directed to the floor board and out the car. You must have a battery that has these.
3.) Side mounts, The battery can have top mounts as well but it has to have side mounts for hook ups. Make sure you get one that has caps over the top mount connectors so that contact will not be made with the seat.
4.)Cold cranking AMPS Get the highest you can. The battery in the car calls for 970. You can probably get away with anything more then 800 but the more the better. Please do not confuse this with regular AMPS These are hungry cars.
The battery that I got was from Walmart for $59.99. It was an Everstart Extreme MAXX 78 or 1N. I can't completely remember. This was the biggest, highest cranking side mount battery with exhaust. I had to modify the tubing a bit on the exhaust. I removed the clamp mount and bolt from the battery. The battery is very heavy and might still feel as if it is attached because of the akward position. I found it best to put a foot in the car and lift up. This is a very heavy battery. I then set the new battery in place and mounted it, then connected the leads. The final step was modifying the tubing exhaust. I just pushed the tubes over the exhaust holes on the new battery. They fit well because it is the same fitting that the old battery has. The only downside is that the new battery isn't as long, you will have to bunch up the tubes a bit to make it fit. I then took some regular PVC tubing from a hardware store, about 1 foot and routed an extention to the battery. Do not bend the tubbing! Just let it ride up over the battery. Be careful putting the seat back in. I plan to try to shorten the tubing so it fits the new battery better this weekend. I'll try to snap a picture of it for everyones reference. This battery has been working strong for about a month for me. Hopefully it works for you.
Oh and by the way the walmart battery has a 3 year exchange warranty on it. So even if the lower CCA concerns you, you could always replace the battery free if it goes again. I would imagine this would take some time.
Feel free to drop me a mail if you have questions
ericmf@digiclipse.com
Might just go ahead and do the front wheel bearings. If the rears are bad, could this be also causing the problem?
,Dan
They are related to ABS as the ABS system needs them to sense wheel speed to apply proper breaking response.
I also tried to have AutoZone code test my car. They couldn't link. I guess because our cars are OBD II or something? Most their scanners only work on GM 96 an above. They used a bright orange scanner. Not sure what brand.
Heres the image:
http://www.digiclipse.com/images/tstat.jpg
Once again anyone who has done a radiator flush on these cars I would LOVE some advice. The heater core hoses look hard to get too. I am mainly concerned with where you tapped the system and what direction you flushed it in. I believe you are supposed to flush away from the water pump. Any help would be very very appreciated.
BTW, did you check the tstat before you installed it?
Drop it in a pot of boiling water with a candy thermometer. I've gotten bad ones rite off the shelf at the parts store. There's nothing like havin to do the job twice. haha!
,thanks all
Dan
eric-definately post back if that new tstat makes your rora run cooler.
BIG NOTE: They do have a spicific start up procedure!
1. Set the heater and a/c control to any pos. except MAX
2. Set the temp to the highest setting
3. Allow the engine to idle till lower rad hose to coolant pump hose gets hot
4. Cycle the engine RPM up to 3000 and back 5 times
6. On the VIN 1 engines open the bleed off valve on the back of the tstat housing for about 15 sec. until the air gets out of the coolant system.
7. Fill radiator all the way up
8. Install pressure cap
AUTOZONE'S price $170.00 (Timken)
Autozone said that they will match Murray's price, so I'm going there. Timken is IMO a better bearing. They also got the hub puller I can rent for free, $20 deposit.
Anybody know what size socket I'll need for axle nut?
Did the job- and everything is fixed (execpt cruise control). It looked like the wheel seal in the back of the hub was leaking. This might of allowed water and other stuff to get in there. There was all kinds of crud all over the spider gear. I think it was the original hub assy, pretty ruff looking.
Theres no more jiggle in the front end when I hit bumps in the road. Runs real good now.
I also found out it's a real ripper. I got the Autobahn package. At 2000 RPM she is doing 60 MPH.
My neighbor would love to take it for a spin, he had his hands all over her. I found out he helped launch the '95 model during inital production starup at the Orion plant here in MI.
My big problem is I bought this for my 15 year old twin girls to drive. It's to damn fast. They just got their drivers permit. Neighbor suggested putting a govener on it. Think I'll just pull 4 of the plug wires off,HAHALOL.
,Thanks again
DAN
The old radiator is already out. I see the old aftermarket radiator needed adaptors for the heater hoses that significantly restricted the flow. Now I Know why it seemed to take longer for the heater to blow warm even though the car warmed up more quickly. I also see that all the foam that the factory used to seal the original radiator to the car was discarded by the shop. I also see where they cracked the airconditioning tube that wrapped around the end of the radiator. You can see the shiny marks where they forced the radiator past and the tiny crack in the metal tube at that point.
0-5 Minutes Idling
---------------------
Car came to normal operating temp of about 180-200
5-10
---------------------
Began testing the card hard. Cycled motor from 0-3500 RPM's about 5 times. Then watched for results. Car rose to approximately 210.
10-15
---------------------
Let the car continue to idle. Checked tstat housing for leaks, bone dry.
15-20
---------------------
Idled at around 210-215
20-25
----------------------
Cycled motor 0-3500 RPM's about 5 times. Watched for results. Reached 220. Fans engaged temp dropped to 215.
25-30
-----------------------
Flipped on air, cycled car with air on. Temps rose to about 225-230. Continued running air.
30-35
-----------------------
Idled w/ air about 225
35-40
-----------------------
Turned off air. Temp dropped to approx 218. Shut off engine at 40 minutes.
All total the car idled for about 40 minutes w/ intermittent testing and air conditioning w/o forced air into the radiator. Something that normally heats this car up. I can tell it has definitely improved. It is still too early to determine if it has solved all my problems.
Tommorow will be the true test as I am sure repeated driving, running the air and temps in the 80-90s will have their own impact. Hopefully the forced air into the radiator will balance this all out. It is only about 70 degrees out tonight and I did begin testing from a rather cool engine. I'll let you guys know what goes down tommorow.
In the mean time please take a sec and let me know what you think. 40 minutes at an idle w/ 225 as max temp? A hot aurora or a normal aurora? Your thoughts are GREATLY appreciated.
Everything was fine before I shot STP carb cleaner for fuel ingected motors in it.
Any thoughts as to what it might be?
,thanks Dan
1. Let car idle till it reaches operating temp.
2. Let car idle 5 min. at this temp.
3. Bring RPM to over 3500 a few times.
4. Put car in drive w/brake applied. Hold it for at least two minutes. Your done.
If this doesnt work make sure the ISC is adjusted properly. You might have turned the screw too far out. Remember it is very touchy so only turn it 1/2 turn at a time. The only other thing I can think of is you might have damaged the MAF during the cleaning. Youre not supposed to get any carb spray on it because it can damage it.
Dave---Read back a few posts. We just spoke about the case half oil leak. Sounds like this is what your buddy has. Page 54.
Well, I finally had time to dig around yesterday and my guess is that I have a bad ground somewhere in there. As I understand it, when the driver's switch loses power, they all do. When my brother and I got behind the door we were able to close the cirut with his voltage meter and the ground wire. He put one end in the ground wire and I put the other end on a decent grounding spot...and what do you know? The windows worked. Easy enough, right? Now I have to find where the switch actually grounds in the car.
Jay and I have poured over the manuals and saw where they say the wire should be grounded...but when we got in there everything looked fine. We should be getting a good ground but are not. Anyone have any other bright ideas as to where the ground could be going bad? The switch is getting power, we know that...and we were able to get it to work with the rigged up volt meter, but I really don't want to take the whole thing apart to get at a frayed wire somewhere. Anyone dealt with this problem, or have any suggestions? Thanks!
-Brian
I have changed the EGR in the last 6 months, I was wondering if this was similar to what you guys with FPR problems or bad plugs/wires felt. I have a hard time believeing that my EGR went out in the last 4 months..but I am open to anything.
You'd think she would treat me better right now...what with the new wheels I just bought. Oh well, you know women :-)
That relearn didn't do it. Still idles about 1100RPM
Now the idle is all messed up, not responcive at all. I push down on the gas pedal and let off quickly. and the RPM falls slowly taking its sweet old time. And wont drop below 1100 RPM
What a frickin learning experance
Have a good day all!
,DAN
stickking1---Sounds like classic plug wire problem. Or a bad coil. Do you have aftermaket plugs or wires?
What was happening was after my 95 Aurora warmed up my A/C would cycle every 8 seconds. The A/C place who recently replaced my compressor and evaporator replaced this switch and now all is working fine.
By the way I enjoy and learn a lot from all of your comments. This has help me diagnose most of my issues seeing that most of the problems with these cars are common problems.
Good luck.