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About 2 weeks ago, put 3 gals of gas in, drove to a gas station (Costco) for cheaper gas & my car tried to turn over but it took several tries before it started up. Every since then, the car has not started immediately. I never had any issues with the hardware before. It's been a great car. Now, this morning, i went to start & same thing only it made a noise like something came loose & next try, it started immediately BUT sounded like something was hitting the fan.
the last car i had the rod broke in the engine so i dont' want to start it up in case there is engine/motor damage. HELP please.... :sick:
Thanks, Aurora in NC :shades:
Tim
I have a 97' aurora with about 73k on it, I've personally put on 12k.
2 days ago when I cold started the car, with my foot off the brake it started up smooth but then went forward a few inches and made a grinding noise.
When I arrived at work, with the car at around 200 F., I shut the car off, and then restarted the car, it started back up fine, no noises or rolling forward in park. At lunch when the car cooled down, and sitting in park gear for a while, I then started the car, and again it went forward and made the grinding noise. Yesterday with my foot on the brake starting it cold, it still made the grinding noise after the car started up.
Today when I started the car when I was leaving from work, the grinding noise happened, and didnt stop, even when I shifted into a different gear while parked. I shut the car off, then restarted it, and it didnt make the grinding noise. The tranny fluid life is at 100%... like most auroras.
What does this all point to, think its too much metal in the tranny because of a lack of tranny fluid changes over the life of the car, or worse?
I'm 21, in college working full time, I'm afraid to take it to a shop or to a dealership as I expect the prices to be upwards of atleast 1K. I'm used to working on rear wheel drive camaros, but definately not a transaxle, worse yet, a luxury car with expensive parts. I really like this car, I'd like to fix the problem so I can keep it. :sick:
pl390
Do a search for a fuel pump for your car at GMPartsDirect.com, vanchevrolet.com, or rockauto.com - that should give you an idea of the pump's price.
--Robert
Some directions can be found at this site:
http://www.howardm.net/dred98/underhood.php
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Pete
Or, if you end up taking it to a dealer, they should be able to tell. I assume you're just getting the T/C light, no other trouble lights?
--Robert
Otherwise, there are solutions like http://www.alldatadiy.com
Hope this helps,
--Robert
By using an ABS capable scan tool to check for stored diagnostic trouble codes, then monitor wheel speed sensor signals and looking for a signal dropout, rather than guessing which bearing is defective.
Use a fuel pressure guage to monitor pressure. The pump's a replacement item.
Since you posted the link to instructions for replacing front hubs, I assume you know about the 34mm socket and Torx 55 required. While these aren't unique to Auroras, they are tools that few shadetree mechanics would already have.
Retracting rear caliper pistons when replacing brake pads requires a special tool. I have not been able to find one that fits exactly. I bought one of those cubes, but none of the faces fit. I ended up using a round two-sided tool that I had for my Fiero; it did not fit quite right, but worked. Also need a large c-clamp to push both front and rear pistons into their calipers enough to provide clearance to rotate the calipers away from the rotors.
I have not replaced my serpentine accessory belt yet. I cannot figure out how to take the pressure off the tensioner. I have done it on other cars using a regular ratchet (1/2" I think, but maybe 3/8"). The problem with my Aurora is there is no room to fit a ratchet -- there is only 1/4" to 3/8" clearance to a large flat plate. I wonder if there is a special tool for that job.
Please post your list.
Les
Lady Aurora
P.S. for anyone who did not get notified there is a recall on fuel lines.
Lady Aurora
Les
Why consider the starter? Is it not turning the engine over at normal cranking speed?
Sounds like you have covered fuel delivery up to the FPR and it's OK. Seems to me it's time to check ignition and injectors.
Les
Sounds to me like a loose ground, but I don't know where to start looking other than what you have already done. Do you have the factory service manual? You might want to trace each of the grounds and confirm it is good. My '97 manual has 18 pages on ground distribution. I could copy it and mail to you if that would help.
You wrote that the ses light flashes and the speedo goes to zero. Do other gauges or indicators misbehave? Might be a good thing to remove and reseat the PCM connectors (you may have already done that).
There is a throttle position adjustment screw on the throttle body adjacent to the throttle return spring. If you were to use that screw to open the throttle a bit -- mimicking pressure on the gas pedal, the result might help localize the cause of the problem. I'm suggesting this for troubleshooting, not as a solution.
Strange that you have no codes. Our PCMs have three kinds of codes (at least): trouble codes, pending codes, and freeze-frame codes. Can your scan tool capture and display all three? I ask because there are many scan tools with widely differing capabilities.
Can your scan tool display operational parameters as you drive? If so, it might be informative to have a passenger watch the TPS output signal as the problem occurs.
Hope this helps.
Les
I had been suffering a low reading at idle, as have many on this board before me, and had always meant to change the sender, when I got a zero pressure reading at startup-I hope that this is the solution. Thanks.
Let us know how you make out.
Les
Hope this helps,
--Robert
Les
--Robert
If you reinstall the old one, does the problem still occur? If so, the replacement is defective (I had to do exactly that - my replacement AC Delco unit shipped with the wrong size O-rings).
--Robert
--Robert
After reading so many problems with fuel pressure regulator I decided to change it (I work in a bone yard and have plenty of engines to pick from).........Well that solved the problem. I was positive it was an electrical thing but NOOOO. I now have a new problem but at least no dying over bumps!....It now runs REAL rough until it's warmed up then purrs like a kitten.....I'm working on that one now and in the meantime I have ordered a new pressure regulator because the only one I could find in our yard has 90k miles.......I figure I'm only buying a little time before that one goes.....Who'd a thunk it!
Thanks for your responses and I'll let you know what happens with this one.
I have 98 aurora 69 k and same problem. Is it important? How can we solve this problem?
Thank you
I read through the manual, and it says that it will take up to 20 minutes for everything to start working, blowing etc....
It also gets very hot where I live, and to have the car wait 20 minutes before the air conditioning kicks on is way to long to wait, even the vent does not blow out any air.
Does anyone have any suggestions as how to over ride the 20 minute settings?
Thanks in advance....
Thanks :confuse:
--Robert