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As long as its a 2.5T you should be just fine.
Heck, not all the T6's were bad either.
We just sold a very nice 60k 03 T6.
w
I don't think there is any question the V8 adds value ... is a far superior engine
Yes, there is a question as to the value. If you took 2 identical models to a dealer here in NJ, the only difference being the engine, the offers you receive would be almost identical.
"Far superior" is certainly open to interpretation. Superior in what way? The 5-cylinder has been around much longer and has proven itself. Maintenance and parts on it are cheaper (fewer spark plugs, for instance). In about another 4 years, if the V8 still proves itself to be as reliable, then I may have your POV, but until then, I'm sticking to my guns on the 2.5T.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
w
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
Is this reasonable? Also, what about the Volvo extended warranty? Or how about somehow having my dealer "Certify" the car--will that extend the warranty?
Obviously local dealers want to sell/lease new ones so I'm seeking some advice from our online larger community. .
I believe we will keep the car another 3-4 years.> Thanks, D
Call your dealer and inquire about the warranty. They can give you a price.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
As we were making our decision, my wife looked at me and said " We're leaving the fold " I had to remind her we still had the s70 and it was the Windstar we were trading in.
Thanks for all your help qbrozen & volovmax.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
I have been told the state of FL regulates extended warranty's essentially fixing the prices. . . the extended warranty for 7yr/100K total is over $3600 via Volvo.
So purchasing the 2005 XC90 V8, with 41K miles, for $21K and adding $3600 for a warranty, may not make a fantastic deal anymore.
MY dealer states a new XC90 body comes out in 2010, and suggested I'd have to take another large depreciation hit trying to sell my 2005 V8, older body, in about 3 years (2011). Not mentioning possible more fuel efficient vehicles (such as disel-hybrids, etc). I had planned to keep the car another 3 yrs and trade it, with estimated 85K miles on it (still under extended warranty).
The problem is there are so many great deals on new 6Cyl XC90's (leasing from 425-500/mo on 12K/36mo with no cap cost), and it makes the risk of purchasing my 2005 a little greater trying to bet on the future market.
Any thoughts?
2nd thought .... leasing a new one.
OK, so $500/mo for 36 months with $0 down = $18,000.
If you buy your $21k XC90 now, do you really think it will be worth less than $3k in 3 years? I'm willing to bet my kidney it will be worth more than that.
OK. Ok. I guess I'm oversimplifying. I guess you'd finance the buyout, right?
Sooo... let's look at it this way. A $21k note for 5 years would be ~$410/mo. In 3 years, you'll have paid $14,760 and your remaining balance will be ~$9k. Let's say it depreciates 60% in that time (I'm pulling that number out of the air). That means it will be worth $8400. Right about what you owe. So we could say you break even. Even if you don't, since you've paid $3300 less than you would on a lease, the car could be worth as little as $6k at trade time and you'll still come out even.
So I guess its a matter of what you want and the deal you can get on a new one. Seems like they may be fairly close in cost over the next 3 years. You MAY have an out of warranty issue, however. BUT, you also may decide to keep this one for the next 6 years and really come out ahead. So now I'd probably be down to tossing a coin in the air.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '08 Charger R/T Daytona; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '08 Maser QP; '11 Mini Cooper S
interesting that there are far and few V8's around (Mine is a V8) eventhough the gas milage is almost the same as the new 6Clyinder. . . perhasp the V8 may be worth more?
At the end of the day it may be a coin toss, or a reasonable dealer.
It will cost me over $1000 to get my brakes done at the dealer. He wants $189 a rotor. Do I have a snowball's chance in Hades getting the lights to shut off if I change the brakes myself? Sensors: they did not jump out at me while I checking things. Where are they, or does the computer just tell you to redo the brakes at 45K? I'm afraid that putting the parts on my self and going to the deal for OBD will result in,"we can't help unless we do the work our selves with our parts." I planned on putting 200k miles on this thing , but if I have to go to this dealer I'm going to get it fixed and unload it.
Any comments apprediated.
Rob
I don't think this could possibly be just a "maintenance due" indication based on mileage, but rather that the diagnostic system detected a fault.
As far as I know from what you have said this might not be pads/rotors at all, but might be one of the computers that operates the ABS/dynamic stability control. If you just need pads, why not go to an independent garage. They can probably reset the light. They will also mic the rotors and if they are thick enough then you might get them to just change the pads and not replace or turn the rotors.
An owner of an independent garage in Dallas told me that he didn't work on any European cars because the mfgrs would not sell them parts at discounted prices as with American and Japanese manufacturers. Repair facilities expect to make a profit on the parts they install, not just on the labor.
It's frustrating to have a dealer charge so much, but you may have to use them. This could well be a computer failure, and they could well have special expertise in diagnosing this. This could just be an instance of the high cost of living in Hawaii, but it sure is beautiful. Years ago I lived on Molokai and did practice teaching at Molokai High School.
I assume that you have checked the level of the fluid in the master cylinder reservoir, and it's not that. Does the ABS work? Can you feel the pulsation of the pedal when you stop hard under conditions where the ABS would be active?
JIM MACDONALD
The Canadian Press
September 1, 2008 at 2:27 PM EDT
EDMONTON — Canada's small auto shops are warning that the cost of getting newer vehicles serviced could “skyrocket” because they say some auto makers are restricting access to vital diagnostic software.
Without the software, smaller shops are forced to send some repairs to dealerships, and the volume of this dealers-only work will increase as more computer systems are added to new models.
For one thing, it's proprietary information.
The only reference the law makes is that diagnostics relating to the Emissions system must be universal.
Second, the manufacturers don't "limit" access. They charge for it.
Most small shops either can't afford, or don't want to pay the access fees.
Volvo's diagnostic system is web based. Your vehicles operating system can be downloaded and sent to Sweden for analysis.
Finally, these cars are way to complex for your average independent garage to deal with anyway. Dealers are constantly sending their techs to school to learn about the latest auto electronics.
I have a 2005 XC90 AWD premium edition
For some stange reason my sunroof will not open anymore.
I have checked the manual and have been following it but still cannot get the sunroof to work.
I climbed up the roof to check it out, nothing is blocking the sun roof.
I am able to push the knob inside to allow the roof to tilt/opn/close, but the roof does not respond.
I want any suggestions/tips before I take to it to the dealer for ridiculous charges.
Take it to your dealer and hope they don't surf Edmunds and read what you think of them.
Does anyone have experience getting a bike rack for XC90? I was told that Yakima and Thule's trunk mount bike rack won't fit on XC90, because the trunk door on XC90 is not strong enough. What are the alternatives? My XC90 is a leased one, not sure if adding a hitch is allowed.
Could I get some pointers here?
Thanks in advance!
David
thanks,
David
The XC90 drives like a spoirts car but has the room for us big guys too. On the road I was able to get as much as 26 MPG. In the city driving, which eats up gas for anyone, the vehicle gets around 17.8-18 MPG.
Hummmm, to change something? I have thought really hard about this....Nothing..It is a beautiful Vehicle and we love ours!!
My Volvo dealer , has 2 that can be placed on the roof.
The more expensive one operates on a sort of crane system... the other (cheaper) works with pure muscle !
I decided, rather, to disengage the front wheel which are quick release equipped. I lay a tarp in the bed of the XC90 and bungie the bike(s) using the anchoring hooks. It works just great.
No worrys about the bike or bikes being stolen at at the trail, in the city or at night. Moreover, there is still room for 2 and appropriate gear " not including the kitchen sink", of course !.
Let me know if you find some good alternative....but this works fine for me and it is very cost effective !I
Volvo XC90, 2009
I have a 2008 XC90 on a 48-month lease ending next February. I love XC90, and actually this is my second one, but since the buyout price going to high (so I learned last time), I'll not buy it from the bank. Since there are some dents and scratches on the car, I'd like to make sure I have most of stuff taken care of before the inspection. Could someone give me some good practice advice on this one? What I understand is that once they inspect the car, I won't have the chance to fix the spots that I'm charged for, and their repair price is always higher.
Thanks,
David
I was wondering if, in your opinion, the 3.2 engine provides enough power for the XC90 in an AWD configuration. I found mixed opinions in professional reviews.
Thanks!
axle shaft replaced after 65,000 miles;
electrical system checked at 65,000 miles;
front wheel bearings replaced at 70,000 miles;
engine/powertrain computer/module reprogramed at 81,500 miles;
battery charging system checked at 80,000 miles; and
electrical system checked at 82,000 miles.
Are these red herrings? Do XC90's have issues with axle shafts or electrical systems? Is checking electrical system standard? I'm assuming that the driver was reporting electrical problems and the dealer couldn't identify/fix. Thanks.
Wouldn't bother you but can't afford to buy another lemon.
The "winter" tires will probably be even better if you do a lot of snow and ice driving.
Don't really have enough miles on them to say how they'll hold up over time.
I paid $528 for mine installed (205/70R15) at a regular tire store down near Detroit, so I hope the discount is better than what your link says. Mine were ~$114 each plus $42 install fees and taxes.
Those pure winter tires will wear out very fast in the other three seasons....
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The automaker also confirmed that it is replacing its current family of engines with a new family of four-cylinder engines. The four-cylinder engines are expected to feature direct fuel injection and turbocharging."
Next Volvo XC90 Set for Late 2014 Debut