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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions



  • I own an 02 1500 w/the 4.7 v8. My problem is cold start engine clatter. The truck only has 34k,on it. The clatter sounds like valves or lifters. The noise lasts about 30 seconds and is worse as the temperature outside drops. Is this something I should be concerned with? I am using the recommended 5w30 oil. Anyone else experiencing this? thanks.......
  • I'm having a circuit problem with interior lights not working and have checked all the fuses in both fuse blocks. My mechanic made a comment that there are three blocks on this vehicle. The dodge dealship says there are only two. I can't get into my mechanic for day or so. So I guess the question is if there are three where are they located as the two locations are fairly obvious.
  • akanglakangl Posts: 3,650
    Glad you got it fixed so cheaply. Just curious, but was he the guy that fitted the new battery in the first place?

    No, hubby had the new battery installed at a battery shop several months ago. The truck was fine up until 2-3 weeks ago, then it started acting funny.
  • Well im not sure about Dodge, but I do know that GM has the same issue with their trucks. The piston to cylinder wall clearance is too great when it is cold. The heat causes expansion and the noise goes away. GM issued at Technical bulletin saying this is normal with no fix. Like I said, Im not sure if Dodge has the same problem.
  • hey guys im pretty new to the forum, but i think i can help yall out a lil. its like this, my bro-in-law is the General Manager at a 5 star chrysler dealership here in oklahoma. so if anyone has any questions about how much somehtin really is(invoice) or service, anything like that i can definetly help out so hit me if yall have any questions. i can find out exactly how much mark up any dodge chrysler, or jeep vehicle. cuz my bor-in-law controls the dealership, but my sister controls my bor-in-law.haha hit me if u have any questions
  • If memory serves me, I think you will find it on the Driver Side of the block just under the Engine Controller. Just in front of the motor mounts. The other place I've remember is same side just under the cylinder head behind the fuel filter housing area
  • If you happen to find out what it is please let me know. I have the same problem with my 2002 Ram 1500 Quad Cab 4x4 with a 5.9L V8 and auto trans.
  • i cant find where the speed sensor goes....any help???? 1999 dodge ram van 1500 3.9!!!!!
  • jmmck_43,

    I to am unable to lossen the hub axel nut on my 97 ram 1500. Did you have any success, and if so how?????

    Your help will be greatly appreciated.
  • I am unable to loosen a front hub axel nut on my 97 ram 1500. Is there anyone with any advice on how to loosen this nut????
  • The problem is in the axel hub bearing. This bearing goes bad and usually begins to cause this vibration while driving the hwy at 70-80 mph. FIX this it's bad. I am in the process of repairing mine. The only problem I have now run into is the axel hub nut is near impossible to remove. If you have already found this problem and did this work yourself could you possibly let me know how you lossened this nut.
    Thank you in advance.
  • I have ran into some difficulty changing my rear drum breaks on my 1998 dodge ram 1500. I have been looking all over the internet to try and find out what it is i am missing. I was wondering if you could tell me what Iam doing wrong so i can fix this break problem.
  • I have a 98 ram 3500 with the 5.9 diesel and i am having trouble with the dash guages. It started with the fuel guage pegging to empty. This went on for over two years then the oil pressure guage started pegging '0'. this was intermitentand I know the pressure was ok. Then the tach became irrattic, running up to 4000 rpms. When this would occur the fuel and the oil read properly. The next step he tach when cold pegs '0' rpms and the dash lights up like a christmas tree with check guages wait to start, the fuel warning light, and the voltage guage dropping and this one is correct. If I return the engine to idle it will correct then reoccur until warm. I have talked to 2 mechanics and they say it's the instrument cluster and will cost between $850.00 and $1200.00. i don't beleive this is the correction as when one goes down the others work. I believe i has to do with grounds or maybe even the computer. If they change the clustere and that doesn't fix it they say oh well let's try this at addditional costs. does anyone out htere know where the problem lies? please advise.
  • hello, i just recently purchased an 01 ram and went to the dealer to get the list of options it came with. it did not have keyless entry. it does have power locks though. they gave me a part # for the keyless entry kit. i purchased one on ebay new in the box and it has no instructions for install. all it looks like is that you need to attach a few wires into a connector, but no instructions where. if anyone can help i appreciate it. i am very mechanically inclined and would rather not pay the dealership to hook up a few wires. thanks art
  • Hi im new 16 and i just got this 1995 ram 1500 v6 3.9 liter and i love it. Its big and still gets better gas mileage than the v8. Anyways...ill get to my point. The truck worked fine for about the first three or four months, ran like a dream. Then lately when i push the pedal down hard it will climb to about 40 mph and redline the rpms without changing gears. I bypassed the problem by leting off the gas, a little, and then it changed gears. I figure i just need to get the tranny flushed and a new filter but today when i was on the highway i steped on the gas hard to merge. The rpm's jumped to about 5000 like they always do but then something very stange and scary happened. Instead of getting a boost of speed the speedometer didnt climb at all!!! It just coasted with very high rpm's and when i let off the gas it started accellerating (slowly) again once the rpms had gone down.This continued for the rest of the day and seems to be permanent. The problem only seems to be with the higher RPM's and if i step on the gas slowly from a stop it works smoothly. I love this truck to death is there anyone out there with any help. It is much appreciated...thanks...Thess
  • Hi,

    I have a 2005 dodge ram diesel 4x4. It makes a whistle/whining noise around 20-30mph. I know what the turbo sounds like as it spools up and spools down. This sounds completely different. It's a lot louder and sounds like it's coming from under the truck. Dealer says they can't find any abnormal sounds. I think I notice it more when it's cold...but then again it's been cold a lot here lately.

    Say I'm driving down the road at 40 and let off the gas. When it reaches the 20-30 mph range it will make the noise. That's why I don't think it's the it doesn't sound like the turbo I'm used to hearing.

  • Its sounds like you may have a bad trans governor solenoid and pressure transducer. They are in the transmission valve body. Not really hard to change but can be tricky.
  • is it expensive? (i am young so im on a budget)-also if i get this fixed i would like to increase my acceleration/torque/horse power, what is the best and most cost efficient way to do that?
  • I have replaced the rear wheel speed sensor and that fixed the problem until I hit about 55 and now there is a distinct clicking sound when I brake... what gives????
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I have replaced the rear wheel speed sensor and that fixed the problem until I hit about 55 and now there is a distinct clicking sound when I brake... what gives????

    It's hard to say from a distance, but if I had to take a guess I'd say it was related to the speed sensor (if that was the last thing you worked on).

    It's also hard to resist referring you back to an earlier response to this problem. :blush:

    "Not meaning to be smart here, but if you're not sure where the differential is you might be better off farming the job out to a local shop. It's a quick and easy job so it shouldn't be costly for labor, and it's sure to be cheaper than buying a second sensor if you damage the first one because of a faulty installation. You might also want to pick up a cheap Haynes or Chiltons manual, which will give you a good grounding in the basics."

    Try pulling the new sensor and see if it's been making contact. The clearance between it and the reluctor should be minimal, but not so small that thermal expansion brings them into contact.
  • convertsilvia - It is extremely poor manners to post with your caps lock on. It makes it difficult to read and, in internet use, is percieved as shouting. Additionally, a spell and grammar check would be helpful.
  • My last post was in caps, and didn't realize it was rude to do so. So I apologize. :cry: Well, my original question was: my alternator is getting no juice. the alternator has checked but the cable that supplies the current has no juice runnin through it. What can be causing this??? THANX!
  • etech1etech1 Posts: 11
    My 1996 Ram 3/4 Ton Diesel does not idle well when cold. It almost wants to die. Must keep my foot on the accelerator for a couple minutes. I should be cleaning windshield at this time! Unlike a gas engine with a choke, is there a setup for a diesel engine cold idle? If I plug the trucks engine heater in for a couple hours it idles fine. At a temperature above freezing ~36F~ I really should not have to manually "step on the gas" to keep it from stalling? Any ideas?
  • etech1etech1 Posts: 11
    I guess my problem is "OKeh" according to number 3 of the following link??:
    Although it does not state HOW LONG one must keep the throttle "partially depressed after engaging the starter"
  • I would check the battery connections, the specific gravity of the electrolyte in each cell, and the level of electrolyte. Since the battery was knocked over, perhaps it lost too much electrolyte to function. I would then check your belts again. If this all checks OK, test battery voltage with the engine off (should be 12V) and then again after starting it up (should be 14-15V). If it does not check at that I suspect the voltage regulator, which is inside the PCM. That would be a dealer only service item. Good luck.
  • Thanks for the info, we'll give a look and see.
    :) ;)
  • Hi guys new here and I need some help. I am the proud owner of a 2002 Ram 2500 4wd 5.9 v-8. This truck has beed to 3 dealers and not one can tell me the problem. Around town it drives great and is a pleasure to drive but on the highway I get a vibration through the cab between 61 and 80 MPH. The dealer has replaced the transmission 17000 miles ago, the front and rear driveshafts and a new transfer case about 500 miles ago. Just did a tune up, new tires and alignment but to no avail. Just keeps getting worse. Any help is much appreciated.
  • Check the main fuse in the box on the drivers side fender well. I blew mine changing the oil filter on my Diesel. About 30 bucks at the dodge dealer.
  • Hi all, I have an 01 Ram 1500 with the 5.9, 4x4, extended cab short bed. My issue, this usually happens when it gets colder and doesn't happen when I am towing thank goodness, when driving especially on the highway when the torque converter should go into lockup it doesn't seem to go fully in and my RPM's will jump about 3-500 if I disengage the OD with the switch then a minute later re-engage it she will go right into lockup and shift fine. I did put it on a transmission computer and the tranny is tight and the torque converter will stall the motor when kept in lockup while slowing down so that is fine. One dealership told me the shift point needs raised to 48-50 MPH for lockup but since it didn't do it on them they couldn't do it. Any suggestions are gratefully accepted!! On lighter note I had a 98 Ford F250 Power stroke and after owning that and its issues I LOVE the way my dodge handles, tows and carries a load, Will NOT be going back to Ford from this point, thanks all again for any help------Chuck
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