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Dodge Ram: Problems & Solutions



  • I recently came across your transmission problem, I have a 99 Dodge ram with the 318ci 2 wheel drive with the exact problem, my transmission speed sensor had gone bad a couple of weeks ago and last week when I went to drive my truck it would not shift out of 1st gear, have you resolved your problem? any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • We're having the same issues with our 94 Ram 1500. Everything except the blowing smoke. We've replaced the converter, the wires, the plugs, the whole shabang. As we speak, we are replacing the throttle position sensor. Hopefully, that will fix our idle problem. Have you had any luck with yours?
  • :sick: :confuse: :cry: We have a 1994 Ram 1500 5.9L 360 and we have had nothing but problems with it after a simple at home tune up. Initially, the oil, oil filter, caps, plugs and wires were changed. After finishing up, we got in the truck only to find that the truck (after about 10 minutes of driving) idles horribly, to the point of stalling. There is also a noise coming from the engine that sounds like a vaccume leak. We have checked all of the hoses and to date have replaced the catalytic converter, new spark plugs (again, just to be safe), the throttle positioning sensor, new muffler. We feel like we're pouring money down the drain at this point. I've read here over and over that when the battery starts to get weak, problems may start popping up. We are going tomorrow to have our battery tested. But if anyone has any ideas about what's going on (things that we haven't already done) PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE help. We love our truck, but we're starting to lean towards a Ford :(
    Thanks to all
  • I'm posting this for my husband who is not a member. He has a 2003 Dodge Ram 2500 and occasionally when he turns to the right it makes a loud, one time pop or click. He has taken it to the dealer a couple of times, but they can't duplicate it. It also happens sometimes when we are pulling our 26ft. travel trailer and only happens when he is turning right. Has anyone else had this problem?
  • loncrayloncray Posts: 301
    Hmmm - truck worked fine before tuneup but not afterwards - have you checked to make sure you put the spark plug wires onto the correct spark plugs? Are you sure the spark plug wires themselves are good? What happened when you put the old spark plug wires back on (if you still have them)? If I'm you I go over the plug wiring diagram very carefully (maybe even get a second diagram to compare to - typos are not unheard of) and check those wires! Good luck!
  • p100p100 Posts: 1,116
    Are you replacing the parts at random just becuase you think they are defective? This is not a very efficient way to solve anything. Take the truck to a dealer or to an independent repair shop and have it hooked up to a diagnostic computer. It could be something relatively simple. My coworker had a problem with his Ford pickup and spent hundreds of dollars replacing unnecessary parts and the truck still did not run right. Finally, he took it to a Ford dealer, and they found the problem. It cost him $ 90 for the diagnostic fee and $ 60 for the part.

    I know, a lot of people are skeptical about taking vehicles to dealers for diagnosis, but as complex as these control systems are, sometimes it is the best alternative. You do not have to pay them to fix the problem, just let them diagnose it for you. then you can buy the right part and fix it yourself.
  • 1995 Dodge Ram Van 3500, 5.2L motor. I would post on the van area but it is pretty much empty and the drivetrain should be the same. In hindsight, the problem has been noticeable for over a year but now that it has manifested itself into being stranded on the side of the road a few times, I need to get this fixed but I hate to go to a mechanic with an intermittent problem. I'm going to assume the symptoms are related so I'll start at the beginning. About 12 months ago, I noticed what I would call hesitation when travelling about 50mph and trying to keep a steady speed when the gas tank was below a quarter tank. Almost a non-event but when slightly pressing the gas at average speed to maintain speed over a rise, I noticed "skipping/hesitation/slight bucking". No problem if you stomped on it, it would go. Only noticeable when easing the accelerator. At the time, it was not a problem so I just made sure the 35 gallon tank didn't get below a quarter tank. Then over time, I noticed the same behavior when the tank got to less than half and so-on. Then, fill up one day on the way home from work and it started hard. Turned over fine but just wouldn't catch. Finally got it going and stop one block from the house to get the mail and turn the van off. Try to start but no go. So, I walk the last block and come back about an our later, it starts up fine and runs great, no problem. At this point it gets a bit hazy. I'm thinking the fuel pump is "going " bad. In hindsight, maybe it is a heat issue. I may have been so focussed on the fuel pump that over the next few weeks when it stalls and won't start, I put 5-10 gallons of gas in the tank to top it off and it starts right up but now I'm having to keep at least three-quarters of a tank in it all the time to keep it running. Finally I break down and replace the fuel pump. Start with five gallons of gas, it starts right up fine on a seventh of a tank. Still not 100% though. A few instances where it would hesitate (even on hard acceleration) and it stalled this past week. I put 10 gallons in and it started up no problem. So, the new fuel pump didn't fix the problem. I've been scouring the web to see if anyone else has the same problem. The battery is less than two years old, the coil measures ok. I know what your thinking but at no time was it ever out of gas. The gauge works and I also verify by resetting miles when I fill up. There are no trouble codes. MAP, O2 and other sensors should throw a trouble code so I'm not sure what to try/test next. First, I was thinking it was a fuel system problem, then I was thinking it was a heat related issue but the last time it quit was less than half a mile from where I started, hardly time enough to get heated up.
  • jj, i have the same problem with my 2004 ram 1500, with out dual control. the system has different ducts for each side. have not been able to find a good document to dig deeper with. Kevin
  • Hi. I have been stumped on this problem for a few weeks now. I have a 94 Dodge ram 1500, 318 Y code. I recently had the cat. converter changed and since then the truck has gone haywire. Here is the deal: when it is started, it will drive fine until around 55 or for about 30 secs. (whichever is first) if I decelerate and try and speed up, it will not shift, blow black smoke, and has crappy fuel milage. I changed the fuel pump, IAC motor, and tuned it up and it gets a little better each time. Now the wierd thing is, When it goes fine and reaches 75 on the highway, it will without warning start lossing speed and here comes the hard shifting and black smoke, however, I can put it in N, switch it off, start it back up and put it in D and it is FINE for another Minute or so. Then the Cycle repeats. I had a Bank 1 sensor too rich code, but so far the 02 sen checks out. Could this be VSS or PCM? Any help would be appreciated. The whole switch off then on to temp. correct the problem leads me to a sensor. Please help me!!!!!
  • we were having the same problem with our 94 1500.. we replaced everything (the cat, the tps, the cap, wires etc) so we finally broke down and took it to the dodge dealership and come to find out, it was the 02 sensor. About 55 dollars and 10 minutes of work later and we have our lovely dodge back! if you need info on how to change it, just send us a message!
    katherine :D
  • Thank you times a billion. I not long ago put a set of 02 sensors on so that didn't hit me, but after I read your reply, I went and put the one I took off. (I save them if I replace something before it goes bad) And so far, it hasn't acted up yet! Thanks a million!! I owe you. It feels kinda embarrasing because I am an ASE certified mechanic. Yet I still have to pass engine performance to become a master. I went about this problem with brains and trial and error instead of breaking out the diagnostic equipment and doin' it right. I guess I was hoping it was a loose vacuum line or something caused by something 'other than' work 'I' perfomed LOL! Again, thanks for the info!
  • Glad that we could help. We went thru weeks and weeks as well of pure confusion before we broke down and took it to Dodge. I'm glad you've gotten your truck back!!
  • I am having trouble with the #7 cylinder not firing and I've changed plugs, wires, dist. cap, etc. I've had 3 different people hook up the diagnostic to it and found 3 different problems. Fixed 3 different problems same results nothing. I was told that if you had a dead cylinder it would dump the extra gas into the exhaust and cause the cat. to clog up. Also, I was told that I might have a pcm problem. Other than the cylinder, I have rough idling, surges or jumping when doing lower speeds, loss of power and bad fuel mileage.
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    I was told that if you had a dead cylinder it would dump the extra gas into the exhaust and cause the cat. to clog up

    Well, that's true if the cylinder isn't firing because of an electrical problem, but not if the misfire is being caused by a dead injector.

    For a cylinder to fire you need a spark, fuel, and compression. If it has those it will fire, and all are easy to check.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,448
    a dead cylinder should not be a hard thing to figure out. First you do a compression test. If ok, hook up a noid light to the injector plug, see if it's firing. If it is, then you check for spark in that one cylinder. It's got to be one of the three...the compression, the injector (fuel) or the spark.

    You need to find someone who isn't guessing but knows what he's doing.

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  • Truck was running great until it sat for about a hour after a 20 mile trip, and it ran for about 5 mins and stopped. It was like someone hit a kill switch, and the engine just stopped and truck rolled to stop. Then it would turn over and almost start...waited 10 mins and it fired off. Drove for about 5 mins more and it stopped again, same thing as before. Turned over for a bit.. nothing, then it fired off and ran really rough and stopped after about a min or two. The engine is not getting a spark, replaced coil last summer, replaced distributer cap and rotor, still no spark at engine. There is spark out of the coil. Not a fuel problem, new pump and filter last summer to. Engine is not seeing any spark. Could be wires?, but all 8 at once? Thanks for any help
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    Could be wires?, but all 8 at once?

    Unlikely, but it could be the one wire from the coil to the cap. Could also be the rotor arm or the cap itself. Finally, just because it was replaced last summer doesn't mean the coil can't be bad.
  • Yeah, i got a spark out of the coil when i grounded it, so i think the coild is good. I replaced the cap just the other day (sorry about that is poorly worded). I guess it could be the wires though, i think that is next.
  • One way to check spark plug wires is to run the engine at night, in complete darkness. Look for sparks arking from the wires to the engine. Also check the ends of the wires, where they fit on the plugs and the distributor. They should be clean and tight.
  • marsha7marsha7 Posts: 3,703
    yesterday...2004 Ram 1500 Hemi 2WD...she was in a McD's parking lot, only moving forward about 3-5 mph, and she suddenly lost power steering and the dash engine light and parking brake light came on flashing...the engine was running fine, car did not stumble or stall, but she had to use all of her strength to turn the steering wheel...once she was out of the way, she stopped, turned the engine off, turned it back on, everything was fine...vehicle never did this before, but loss of power steering made it quite stressful/difficult to steer, esp at very low speed...

    I took it to local shop (not Dodge dealer), they hooked up their computer to look for some diagnostic code, but there was no code, so nothing could be diagnosed, at least at this time...

    I thought she might have been up against a curb, which would make it difficult to turn the wheel, but she was in the middle of the parking lot, and that would not explain why dash lights would come on...

    Has anyone experienced this situation, and could you resolve it???...she is obviously quite afraid that it might happen again...thanks...
  • Did you ever get to bottom of this. I have same issue and have been searching but cannot come up with fix
  • Did you ever get this resolved. I have same issue and cannot find answer
  • Hi; I have a 98 Dodge Ram 1500 V6, my problem only occurs when i make a left turn. My truck loses power (I can rev it up to no avail) so I back off the gas and there's a hard bump ( like bumper cars) then it will accelerate! Is this a fuel pump problem? Seems odd that it only happens when I make a left turn. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
  • mac24mac24 Posts: 3,910
    If you can rev it up it's not a fuel starvation problem, most likely transmission. Sounds like you're low on fluid and it's maybe not picking it up as you corner.
  • scarescare Posts: 2
    I have been looking though the archives and see that I am not alone in my transmission problems. Fortunately, I have read posts that suggest that my problem may not be as expensive to fix as I feared, but I will post my issues here to get your opinions:

    96 SLT Laramie 5.9 automatic with 200k mi. on it.

    Does not like to shift into reverse or what feels like 3rd gear. Going forward it revs to about 3500 almost right away once I put it in gear and give it gas, then stays around 3500 while going 30-40 mph, but I never feel a shift once I get to that point (never kicks down), so I don't try to go any faster (it used to get up to 70 mph faster than I could believe). When I try to shift into reverse, it often does nothing at all regardless of how may times I try to shift, turn the truck off/on, etc. On the times it does shift into reverse, it does so with a big kind of 'clunk' and then jumps into gear. I have noticed that it takes longer to get to this relatively usable condition when the weather is cold.

    What are the things that I should be looking for? Is this something that I can do myself (with 200k, I don't want to spend too much)?
  • Hey Mr. D.
    I have a new '06 3500 with the Cummins 5.9HO 610 Diesel. In the past, I have here and there done my own oil changes on my gasoline engines, partly due to costs, but just as often for convenience.

    In regard to this new diesel truck, would you. A. Recommend strongly that I have the dealer do the oil changes out of warranty concerns and get used to the cost. B. Make sure I use Mopar oil filters and recommend I use ???? brand oil, making sure I ??? (such as fill the new filter with oil to protect my turbo), or C. maybe another option like a lube/oil specialty shop?

    Also, it LOOKS like changing the fuel filter is a straight forward job by a drop in cartridge in the housing that I can drain water from the filter at. True?

    And last but not least. Is a 5000 mile (nice, round, easy to remember) oil change interval a good one, or wasteful by far? I tow 2-3 times a year for < 100 miles each time.

  • scarescare Posts: 2
    I forgot to mention, the truck is 4x4.
    I also put an OBD-II scaner on it and pulled these codes:
    P0740 Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Malfuction
    P0783 3-4 Shift Malfunction
    P0306 Cylinder 6 Misfire Detected

    I doubt that the misfire has anything to do with it, but 740 & 783 definitely do. Does a 740 code mean it could be an electronic problem that does not require cracking the transmission open for? And is it indicative of a common, specific error when 740 and 783 are found together?
  • I was attempting to start my RAM. when you turn the key your test lights normally come on... well my check engine light did not come on. If I leave the key in the on position, I will hear a clicking coming from relays behind the master cylinder. Clicking wiil start out faint and slow and get increasingly faster and louder until check engine light comes on and then goes out. At this point turn the key and it starts.

    This is only a cold weather issue. In summer, starts up with no problem. As it get colder, the time it takes for the relays to begin clicking and finally finish clicking so I can start gets increasingly longer. I have waited up to 1hr for clicking to start and have had clicking last for more than 10 minutes before it stops.

    It also does not matter weather engine is hot or cold. On cold days, I can turn engine off hot and 5 minutes later, it will not start till it goes through the clicking motion.

    i have already replaced the relays themselves with no change.

    so does anyone have any idea why this is happening any clue at all would be helpful as this vehicle is my work vehicle and it has to carry me around the midwest HELP!
    Replies to this message:
  • loncrayloncray Posts: 301
    Not speaking for Mr. D, but my personal experience with my '03 CTD Ram is to have all oil changes done by the dealer. I wouldn't go to a Jiffy Lube type shop unless they were endorsed by Cummins. Supposedly the fuel filter change IS a quick drop-in but I have always had the dealer do it. Finally, I think 5,000 miles is about right, esp. with light towing. There's almost no way to meet the requirements for the 7,500 mile interval schedule, and I think 3,500 is too often.
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJPosts: 3,516
    First thing I'd check is the battery and cables. Sounds like you don't have enough juice.

    kcram - Pickups Host
This discussion has been closed.