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Comments
Any ideas? Thanks
It almost sounds like there is a bearing out in one of the pulley (if there are any), but the fact that the sound stops after a few minutes puts a damper on that theory.
Also, are the stock tires on the Odyssey "Directional" or "Unidirectional". I'll be rotating tires soon and want to confirm.
Thanks everyone.
I have a 15' slope of about 100 feet (driveway is about 500 ft total) at the beginning of the run. Snow tires make all the difference. And I have turned off the traction control if it starts to bog it down.
Steve
Steve
So I assume that this is now considered a 'life of the vehicle' item, and that nobody changes them unless there is a real problem???
Steve
I think the dealer can rig up a microphone to determine where the sound is coming from if they want to take the time. Sounds like your dealer isn't willing to do so, might be a good idea to try another one. I would continue to press the case however because the suspension shouldn't rattle over every bump, especially only one side.
Best of luck.
during the process of a test drive with a very proficient mech rep, he driving, me in the front passenger seat, he quickly diagnosed the driver's side rattle as the hood release cable moving...
during the ride, he also picked out and brought my attention to a very faint right-front-side rattle, which you could only hear when going over bumps. I could barely hear it but i told him that yes, when I was driving, sometimes I could hear it too.
i got the car back a few hours later with both rattles solved.
the driver's side was the hood release cable. the right-side rattle was something with the strut/strut-tower interface. they dis-assembled, applied some lubricant and re-assembled and that noise was gone. he said it was something he'd seen (and heard) before.
regards.
We have the 100k, no deductible hondacare warranty. I told them to just fix it but they say that honda has not determined what to fix. The 00' Ody Ex Navi only had 51k miles on it.
and that my VIN was in that batch affected. My dealer said that I was the first van that they did under that service bulletin and they had my car all day saying it was a bear to do. So far, i have not driven the car since it was done today, but I will be listening for the sound. So have your dealer check your VIN against that bulletin. Happy to help!
failure. Any one know what FPDTR means?
auburn63?
jnash2
Typically we clear this code and see if it returns as stand alone code. This is a communication code bettween computers and sometimes when a code is set on the ECM it interfers...
failure)The ABS or TCS control lights never flashed codes on their own, if that's what you are asking. I guess I am in over my head here with my little peice of wire and no Helms of my own. I pulled fuse 13 to clear the 35 code. Now when I jumper the service connector the MIL comes on steady. Would you suggest having my dealer check this? I don't know if he can, since it hasn't come back. Or should I chalk it up to a one time thing?
A lot of this has to do with the amount of usage. Do kids constantly slam the sliding door?
Just part of owning a car...things wear out, even on Hondas.
Had the rollers replaced @ the dealer for part + 30min labor. Reached 5 min before opening time so did not have to wait for the service. Not a bad experience.
Kids (15 and 12y) are extremely well behaved....they have never slammed doors. For the privilege of riding in the van they keep it clean, inside and out.
Also, my 04 Ody LX had the rattling in the right front too......since the weather has warmed up its not been a problem.
Have you received any information regarding the root cause?
I don't have a clue as to why the power steering switch wire will break since the wire/switch is down and behind passenger side front tire, not accessible by most users. If the wire is too short then it is a design defect which I should not have to pay for repairs. A Honda dealer charged me 3 hours of labor for rewirng. What a bunch of BS.
my wife has a 2002 odyssey with 40,000 miles on it
the speedometer broke and my mechanic says he located a speedometer with 86,000 miles on it
my question is if I have him put the speedometer in will I end up with 86,000 miles on the van
my mechanic says he doesn't know if the memory is in the computer or the head
A reputable mechanic or dealer could reset the replacement odometer and provide an affidavit or other form to DMV to verify that the replacement odometer is showing actual miles. Or maybe the receipts showing the work done would be enough.
Here's what one state says about replacing odometer's and resetting the miles:
Wisconsin DOT (.pdf file)
In Florida it looks like your signature on the odometer form is sufficient:
link (another .pdf)
So check with your local DMV.
Steve, Host
I'm going to my dealer today
they're pretty tough but so am I
I went back to the specs on the honda website and noticed that the LX does not have the "heat resistant glass" that comes with the EX. Has anyone found a solution to this problem? I figure that I can have the windows tinted by the dealer or have the EX windows installed on the LX. Any idea how much this would cost.
Thanks in advance
Michael
I just purchased a 2004 EX and had never owned a van before. I'm not sure whether this is a common problem for vans. I noticed a vibration when riding in the middle row. I don't feel it when driving. It's very noticeably shaking only in the middle seats.
Any info on this would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
Good Luck.
We have a 2001 Odyssey EX. For the first time ever, the driver-side power door failed to operate. I was concerned, but I kept my cool and flipped through the owner's manual rather than immediately going to a dealer.
I removed and checked the fuse (stashed away inside the wall on the passenger side); it looked fine. Nevertheless, I put in a new fuse (which Honda kindly provides in the fuse box under the hood). Bingo, the door worked! I decided to put the original fuse back in; the door still worked.
So, before you consider replacing a motor or some other item with respect to an inoperable power door, check the fuse first :-).
(Why the original fuse worked after I put it back in is a mystery. Maybe it became loose somehow, and therefore the power door failed? And, then when I placed it back in, it was properly secure?)