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2003-2008 Toyota Corolla Prices Paid and Buying Experience
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2. Email all your local dealers and ask for quotes. Even if you are not planing on visiting the dealer, get a quote anyway! The more quotes, the better.
3. Plan what dealers you will visit and plan a route. Don't plan on just visiting one dealer and getting a good deal. Start your day early; if the first dealers fails, go to the next.
4. Be strong and confident when u visit the dealer. After all, you will have a folder with all your internet research printed out. Those quotes and prices you got will be very powerful weapons when it comes time to deal. Do not show the least bit of intimidation, they will take full advantage of it.
5. Be defiant. They will try to control you. If they ask you to wait, don't wait, go walk around and see more cars. If they ask you to fill something out, tell them you will fill it out as soon as you agree to the right price. If they want to discuss how you will pay or if you have a trade-in, then again tell them that first you need to agree on the price. You can even get up and use the restroom in the middle of the deal; show them you will not be controlled.
6. Decide what you want to pay and DON'T BACK DOWN. If that's all you can pay, then that's all you can pay. Explain to the dealer why you feel the car is only worth that much and make sure you stick to it. Don't even let them talk you into paying a couple hundred more; after all, would you hand me a couple hundred just for the heck of it?
7. If all else fails, walk away and tell them you will think about it. Visit another dealer.
What kind of a deal did I get? Not a bad one.
Corolla Sport.
Retail: $18,100.00
My Price: $15,000.00
What is the package infor u got for Sport model , just the Extra value Package ?
This is a great site for researching pricing before you buy. Now that you found it, hopefully you'll do much better on your next car.
I am getting e-mail quotes from dealers in the Portland, OR area for a 2008 Corolla CE. The average price seems to be around $15100-$15200. This includes the Upgrade package (power doors/locks), floor mats, weatherguard package and cruise control.
A rebate of $1000 is factored into this price.
Does this seem like a good price for this car? Should I wait till the '09 Corollas come out to buy an '08?
Thanks,
Cathy
Thanks for the reply. Can you please tell me why you think I can get it below invoice (because getting $2000 off $15105 would mean they will sell it below invoice?
I am dealing with the Internet department in most of these cases and they refuse to negotiate.
Thanks,
Cathy.
From Dec 24th to Dec 31st I was looking at a Corolla. It (they) were CE's w/power package and floor mats. The lowest price I found was 12,899. The dealer in my area was 12,999. The colors available were white, tan, silver, black -if I remember.
Glen in California. The prices above are after rebate.
This thread is amazing. I am gettin 15888.39 OTD on 08 Corolla LE VV ( without ABS and side curtain airbags) in bay area. Could you guys please help me is this a good deal. I am a first time buyer and kinda lost actually
Thank you
Kakanik
I love my Corolla. It is giving me 28 mpg in the city.
I was tempted to buy a Yaris, but with the $1500 in rebate the Yaris and the Corolla's price were the same, and after the drive test, definitevely the Corolla drives better than the Yaris.
Careful. Don't have a car because it has the MP3 thing option.
I hope this review is helpful to you.
Thanks.
I'm looking at a CE auto and trying to get $2500 below invoice which includes the $1500 rebate-is that doable?
Thanks.
magoo
THANK YOU
ANITA
2008 Corolla S with
Moonroof
VP extra value package
AB anitlock brakes
CK all weather guard.
on Edmunds the invooice price is $17,651 plus the dealership is adding 313.oo adv fees and 56.00 for floor mats. Total 18581.00 minus 1000.00 rebate. They are giving me 3800.00 for my trade in, Is this a fair deal.
Thanks
Anita
By the way, this was all done via email with the fleet/internet department. When I found the car that was desired, we just went over, drove it, completed all the paperwork, and took it home. It is alot easier now than it ever was to deal through emails and the phone. I always used Edmunds invoice as my goal. We just bought an FJ for my husband in a similar manner (even though they had to trade with another dealership out of state and add features at the port to get the one we wanted). Dealers used to make you come and haggle in person, but no more. I've bought 3 new Fords, 2 new Chevys, 1 new Honda, 3 new Toyotas plus helped 2 people buy new Toyotas in my lifetime (am getting good at this).
So the total after rebate and trade in is 14, 746.36. Again this is for a 2008 Corolla S with Moonroof, VP extra value package #1, AB anti lock braking system, CK all weather guard, color is Speedway blue.
Thank you for your kindness,
Anita
Here is the deal they are giving me.
2008 Corolla S with moonroof, VP extra Valu package#1, AB anitlock brakes, CK all weather guard package, color Speedway blue.
Cost$18,581.00 minus 1000.00 rebate, minus $3800.00 for trade in total 14,746.36.
I would be interested in your thoughts on this deal. It's a dealership in Springfield PA.
Thank you for your kindness,
Anita
My trade in is a 2003 ford focus hatchback, close to 62,000 miles in great condition.
I am thinking about going back next wed. to the dealership, they called me today and told me to come in they are having a 1 day sale on this car that i am interested in. However, I called them back and spoke to the salesperson and told them I cannot make it in til wed. Jan. 30th. then I asked him when the new corollas are coming out and he told me in a couple of months. I like the car I test drove I am just new at this game and I want to get a fair price. I feel so blessed finding these forums with people like you who are willing to share your knowledge.
Thank you
Anita
BTW, with all the info I have given you what price would you say is fair for me to ask for the car. And how do I break it down, ex. trade in money against the new car cost.
My strategy is always to go in with the out-the-door (OTD) price that I want to pay and then no one can confuse me with how much I am paying for the new car, how much they are giving me for my old car, how much tax and fees I am going to pay. I go in knowing exactly how much I want to be paying at the end. I don't talk monthly payments. I only talk OTD price.
(1) Go to www.edmunds.com, select New Cars, select your car and options, and see what the INVOICE price is.
(2) Subtract the rebate from price (if you want to take the financing incentive instead of the rebate, then don't subtract it).
(3) only pay sales tax, state vehicle license tax/registration, and doc fees other than that (you can call a few dealerships and get an idea of what amount doc fees should be and what percent the sales tax is).
(4) If you want to trade a car in, subtract that from the invoice price before you calculate the tax. Look at the want ads to get a price range that people are selling a car similar to yours for. I think having a trade just complicates the deal and the dealership never gives you as much as you can get on your own (and you can post your car for free on www.craigslist.com). The trade just makes it so that they can play with the numbers and confuse you about what you are really paying for the new car. They either raise the price of the new vehicle so they can make it look like you are getting more for your old trade or they give you less for the old vehicle and sell you the new car for less. I usually don't trade in, but I have found it beneficial twice; it really depends on whether you can get the OTD price you want with your trade included.
(5) You can calculate what the out-the-door (OTD) price you should pay is by adding invoice - trade-in + tax + state vehicle registration + reasonable doc fee = total price
(6) Start by sending email to the internet/fleet department(s) of a few places to see if they have what you want and what price they are wanting for it. Then reply and see if they will take your OTD price. Sometimes they won't, other times they will come back and counter offer, and usually one seems to come back and give me what I've asked for. If no one wants to deal at that price and you have your trade included, then you could try taking your trade out of the deal all together and see if you have better luck. I'm usually not picky about a 100 or 200 dollar differences because overall it doesn't cost that much compared to the cost of the car (I would rather go to the person that is easy for me to work with). I just try to get somewhere close to Edmunds invoice.
(7) I've never had a dealer not honor their offer made via email or phone once I go down to pick up the car (but I suppose it could happen). After you've squared everything away with the salesman and you are ready to talk to the financing person, watch out for tricks that the financing people can play on you. They may try to add a warranty onto your contract without you noticing (or some other thing that you didn't know about). They may also try to make you feel guilty or bad about not purchasing the warranty. Just tell them to get on with it at the price you agreed with the salesman or you will walk out and not buy the car. This has happened to me a few times and the financing person will always proceed and finish up if you threaten to walk out.
(8) You should understand what rate you will actually get somewhere else versus what the financing incentive is before you can really figure out whether you should go with the rebate or financing rate incentive. The financing portion is just another game that they can play with you. Get pre-approved before going to the dealership (it doesn't hurt to go to a few banks or credit unions and see who is offering the best rates; you can do this all online; even the application). Sometimes, the dealer will then try to beat the rate that you already have. It always helps to know what you can get so that the dealership doesn't charge you a higher interest rate than you should be paying. If you want to figure out whether to go with a rebate or the financing offer, calculate the interest savings yourself before you start working on your vehicle price. If you have Excel, you can setup an interest chart (PMT is the function name); if not, you should be able to look up interest charts somewhere online.
(9) In summary: Know what you want to pay for the car before you go in via Edmunds, know what financing rates are available to you, know what your trade is worth. If they ask where you got price, tell them Edmunds. Alot of times, they will say that Edmunds isn't right, but I've found it to be pretty accurate.
So far my best quote which DOESN'T include tax, tag, title was:
$14,523 for a CE with power locks, power windows, keyless entry, floor mats and vehicle shield (already put on the car) OR $14,686 if I add cruise control.
Does anyone know if this is a good deal? Those quotes include the rebate. I was kind of hoping to pay $14,000 for a car with all of those extras....is that reasonable?
This is the deal they wrote up for me.
19,670.00 MSRP
-1089 dealer discount
_________________
18581.00
-1000.00 toyota refund
____________________
17,581.00 minus 3800.00(trade in) + 826.80 tax + (83.50 +55.00 tags) = 14,746.30
Does this sound like a fair deal. I am located in PA
Thanks
Anita
The price you have so far is horrible! On a loaded up "S" you should be paying no more than $3500 UNDER MSRP!. In September I got $3950 under that MSRP number. Don't let them take advantage of YOU!
Main point: never start from MSRP.
Good luck.
If they can't milk you through the price. I assure you, they will try to get you in the interest rates. Don't let them!
Good luck.
Thanks
Anita
$19,670
- 1,700 dealer discount
______
$17,970
- 1,000 rebate
______
$ 16,970
- 3,800 trade in
______
$13,170
then add your sales tax and fees to the $13,170 , worth a shot . DON'T FORGET THE LOWEST INTEREST RATE FROM LOCAL BANK . With your credit standing should get 5.59 % or less . GOOD LUCK
I value all the advice all of you have given me and I put it to action. I asked another dealer for a quote on a 2008 Corolla S with these features:
FE -50 State Emissions .........................
CK - All Weather Guard Package ..................
AB - Anti-Lock Brake System, with ...............
Electronic Brakeforce Distribution .........
MR - Power Tilt/Slide Moonroof with Day/Night ...
Inner Mirror and Driver & Passenger Side ...
& Curtain Airbag ...........................
VP - Extra Value Package #1 Includes: ...........
15" Alloy Wheels w/P195/65R15 Tires, .......
Color-Keyed Rear Deck Spoiler, Power .......
Windows, Remote Keyless Entry and Cruise ...
Control ....................................
DK - Preferred Owner''s Portfolio ................
WL - Alloy Wheel Locks
NEW DEALER PRICE:
MSRP $ 19,647
INVOICE $ 18,020
Selling at $17,800 plus tax and tags
You have the option of $1000 rebate of the financing at 2.9% for 36mts, 3.9% for 48mts, 4.9% for 60 months. He told me that we would figure out what options will work out the best for me and would be contacting me today.
The NEW dealer DOES NOT have this car on his lot he has to look for it and wants me to put some money down so he can bring it in for me. The ORIGINAL dealer has it on his lot NOW.
The NEW dealer came in $800.00plus cheaper than the original. Since this is all new to me what should i tell the original dealer? I want to be honest however I feel alittle awkward telling him I am going with another dealer, I feel kind of sneaky/guilty! I am suppose to talk to the original dealer on Wed. and the New dealer today.
So I am feeling alittle stressed and guilty and I am looking for advice on how to handle the situation.
Thank you
Anita