couldn't help but respond to that one. Thanks for saying "around" the rates that are available. My hands are tied on that one.
I am also a member of USAA and it is a Savings Bank available to Military personnel and their dependents. They have one of the absolute best track records of Banking and Insurance around (Notice the plug) If it is an available source of car/homeowner insurance to you then take advantage!
***If it is an available source of car/homeowner insurance to you then take advantage!***
I'll say. Full coverage (Collision & Comprehensive + Liability) with reasonable deductables will run us $600/year on a brand new Pilot. Pretty good if you ask me...
FYI the banking is available to anyone (not just military and dependants - they opened it up a couple years ago), but the insurance is still restricted.
Can't figure out how to create a new thread, even though I've done it before...?
I wanted to ask Anonymous Car Dealer if the Honda incentives apply to any other models. Just curious, as I'll be in the market for another car (not a Pilot) soon...
There are incentives on almost all new '06 Honda Cars and Trucks. They are not nearly as aggressive as they are on the Pilots. I would talk more about this but I would be waaaaay to tempted to drag the nation to our store.
dwilliam, is there a way to find out if a Honda dealership is at 110%? Also, is it better to buy a vehicle at the end of the month instead of the beginning? Thanks!
"I hate to seem preachy, but leasing is badbadbad! BUY a car (whatever finances allow) and drive it into the ground!"
As a long time leaser, I can't help but jump in with a reaction to that quote. If cars are nothing but basic transportation to you, then sure, buy a car, get it paid off, drive it into the ground, get an education in auto parts you never knew existed, and then do it all over again when you finally can't take it any more. But if you really like cars, prefer to have something new and fresh every 3 years, prefer not to ever have to worry about high mileage breakdowns maintenance and repairs, prefer to have a relatively lower monthly car payment (albeit a never ending stream of car payments), prefer to drive a much nicer car than you could otherwise afford on a purchase, then leasing is a wonderful thing. The only vehicle I ever purchased instead of leased was a 1997 Honda Odyssey LX, and I regret it. I got the lowest model, sacraficed features I really wanted, and I still had a monthly payment of nearly $500 for 5 years. Ended up keeping it for 7 years. So 2 years of no car payments after 5 years of high car payments. Would rather have leased 2 new ones over roughly the same timespan with everything I wanted in them and paid say $400 per month. Now I'm LEASING a 2004 Odyssey EX with leather and DVD. Monthly payment is only $405, all-inclusive, no money down, everything rolled into the monthly payment. I have everything I wanted in the vehicle and a reasonable monthly payment too. Lease term is almost over, which is why I am lurking in these forums.
The leasing incentives from last month expired yesterday, right now the Honda website isn't showing any incentives (buying or leasing) for any models. Does anyone know if/when they'll start offering those again?
Yes, it really does boil down to how you view a car. I view a car as a necessary but expensive depreciating asset.
It's nice to enjoy the new car smell every few years but like it or not, from a purely financial standpoint, a lease (or for that matter, a new car) is a foolish thing to do.
This is Conicelli in Conshohocken. They agreed to give me the vehicle for 28,300, EXL with Navi. I have put in the deposit last night and they are going to trace the vehicle from near dealership :shades: . I can pick it up this saturday or monday.
Will let you know how it went. As if they are not able to trace it for me (which is rare), deposit will be refunded.
Internet dealers were so great to deal with and even internet sales manager is very good. I enjoyed talking to her, no pressure person.
I don't recommend Turnersville, :mad: they don't stick to their word and treat customers so bad.. unless you are paying them extra 3-4k. Well I don't want to pay 3-4k just to have someone talk to me good for 1-2 hrs. I called in an cancelled my appointment with them, after they started playing with numbers, like adding dealer cost, later getting that out after we argued, then started taking accessories out.. felt sick dealing with them :sick: .
Anyways at the same time, I want to be treated nice, and want dealer to stick to their words. If they can't match the price, just say and don't waste our time.
Take to Conicelli internet department. My email is public, in case you need any advice.
Will keep you guys posted when I get the vehicle (keeping fingers crossed and nothing is sure until you have to keys!)
It's Pilot EXL 4WD with Navi, to be exact. Quote includes all fees, except TTL.. OTD should be somewhere around 30,347. All I am worried about is mileage on the car.. hope I am not dreaming...
The best way to discern whether a dealer is at 110% is to simply ask them. The info about the incentives was on this forum long before I joined so simply tell them you KNOW! And then work your best deal from there.
As far as "When to buy" during a given month... All dealers (as far as I know) push to get those extra few units in at the end of the month. However, If it makes sense for me to take a "skinny" deal anywhere in the month I will do it. It really depends upon their goals, their profit margins, a bonus level... :confuse: The bottom line is that no matter when you buy within a month We as dealers still paid the same amount for the car. Just be informed, know where you stand, and Pay your dealer a profit! Profit is not a 4 letter word, it's not a dirty word, and your dealer spends a TON of money just to get you in the door. (stepping off my soap-box now :P )
I just received a quote of $27,895 which includes everything except tax, title, license. This is from Grand Honda in Illinois. It is also about $900 less than their quote from last week. It is good only until July 10th. It sounds pretty good to me and I may just take the plunge. Anyone in the Chicago area that may have found a better deal??? Thanks.
We have an appointment for tomorrow to finalize the deal but was wondering: if we will pay 1/2 with personal check and 1/2 with credit union financing check, do we still have to complete a credit report form? Just wondering what is standard. it's been a while since I last bought a car from a dealer! Thanks! :P
From what I can gather here, the incentive to dealers on the Pilot runs through the end of July (on purchases only, right?). Did anything else come out on the Pilot regarding leasing, purchase finance rates, etc?
Also, off topic but can be answered by someone in the know: anything come out for the Odyssey? We're in the market for one of these two...depending on where the best deal is.
Did you find anything cheaper in Minneapolis? I found 28, 100 in Minneapolis, where I live, but per my previous post, found 27,100 in Chicago, and as I travel there for work often, I may do that if Minneapolis dealer doesnt come down.
I have not found anything lower than 28,000 in Mpls. Can you share the name of the dealer in Chicago you got 27,100 from. My e-mail is puiblic if you'd prefer to e-mail it to me instead. Thanks.
Do NOT let the dealer run your credit if you have your own financing. Inquiries lower your score somewhat and if you're paying for the car, there is no reason the dealer needs your credit report.
If you have your financing arranged then have your credit union get in touch with the Dealer prior to delivery so they have no NEED to run a credit report.
If you are paying cash then the dealer may request to pull a credit file to verify your identity. More and more dealers are requiring this and you should comply. Identity theft is RAMPANT. Also keep in mind the further you live from the dealer the more concerned the dealer becomes. You are talking about an item that once purchased becomes used and titled. (Huge affect on value) Not to mention that we are to take your word that your check is good.
Credit pulls affect your score very little by the way. Check the websites for the three major bureaus for confirmation. If you are applying for "Like" credit i.e. a car then all pulls within a 14 day period are supposed to count as one. The bureaus and lenders realize that more and more customers are shopping rates.
We, as Dealers, are very aware that comsumers are hesitant and reluctant about credit applications when they have their own financing or paying cash. Please also be mindful that Dealers are major targets for Fraud and Theft and must take measures to protect themselves as well as YOU! Just make sure you are dealing with a trustworthy Dealership. Dealerships are required by LAW to protect your information. If you don't trust your Dealership with your information... Should you really be buying a car from them?
The Anonymous Dealer
p.s. I can stop throwing in my 2 cents worth if you would like. I just know in my bones that car buying should be easier than it is.
Thank you Anonymous Dealer for sharing your knowledge.
My concern isn't that I don't trust the dealership, but more of how the credit pull will affect my score. But, as you mentioned, my credit union had to pull it for my car financing a week ago so we should be good to go even if the dealer checks it again.
I am finally getting around to posting the information on the '06 Pilot I purchased. Thanks to all the others that posted their info. it was a big help in doing my deal.
Bought an EX-L AWD with Navigation from Gwinnett Place Honda in Atlanta, GA at the end of June. Here are the details (Pro Package is their version of the clear coat paint b.s. + mud guards + moonroof visor). All accessories listed are installed prices. Base: $28707 ProPkg: $401 Chrome Side Steps: $632 Crossbars: $218 Cargo Tray: Free Separation Net: Free Front Air Deflector: Free Destination: $550 DealerDoc/Reg: $399 Title&Lemon: $31
My OTD for all the above and tax (7%) was $33,133.59
Had also negotiated on the EX-L AWD without navi and had a base of $26,730 and propkg down to $220. They were tougher with the Navi b/c of its popularity.
Loving the vehicle so far & the Navi is definitely worth the extra cost to me.
Got a question with you about papers to be signed at the dealership.
If my wife and I already secured financing with our credit union do I still need to bring my wife with me to the dealership? Because I'm planning to buy out of state and I think it would be a lot more cheaper not to bring her.
I didn't mean to imply that you didn't trust your Dealer. I meant it as more of a generalized comment. And in your case I would have your credit union representative either give you a pre-approval letter or contact the Dealership directly. The dealership will WANT to have your financing business so if they can match or beat the rate there are no loan fees so you can consider that.
I need my own forum... I can't seem to keep my mouth shut!
Got a question with you about papers to be signed at the dealership.
If my wife and I already secured financing with our credit union do I still need to bring my wife with me to the dealership? Because I'm planning to buy out of state and I think it would be a lot more cheaper not to bring her.
We paid the same way recently (1/2 cash, 1/2 bank check) and the dealer said that a 5 line credit report was required to verify our identity. I checked with a dealer friend I have and he verified that most dealers will require the basic credit check.
That all depends upon YOUR credit union! You can have a Loan in both of your names and the title in one IF your credit union will allow it! In your case you would have to coordinate with your credit union because they may be assisting you with your title work. OR you will have to do the title work yourself OR the Dealership in the state you purchase will be doing it. (with me so far?)If the Dealership handles your tax, title, license for your HOME STATE i.e. Florida then your credit union (if they will allow it) can tell them to title in only your name and you can sign the paperwork at the Dealership and be done! If the credit union will NOT allow it then the Dealer can have you sign and FedEx the paperwork home for your wife to sign. In either case she does not have to make the trip. Again... the lien Holder gets to decide. If you purchase a car at the dealership and the Dealership handles the financing then both should be present to sign the Loan DOCS and I am pretty sure MOST Dealerships in MOST States would then be required to have both on the title. I made this lengthy to cover additional situations in this forum.
The bottom line in your case is this. Your wife does not have to make the trip and if her signature is required they can FedEx paperwork back and forth. The Dealership may require the DOCS be notarized.
In your case if the Dealership does not require doing the title work and registration you will have separate tax issues! You will either have to have the money in your account to pay it separately when you register the vehicle or your credit union can do a separate loan for t,t,l and merge the two. You will also have to obtain the MSO/MCO which is the Manufacturer's certificate of Origin. It is needed to issue title for the vehicle and Dealerships are NOT wild about handing one to you! They would rather send it to the State (Who can then proptly LOSE it!) or to your Credit union. It really is BEST to force the Dealer to do their JOB and get all of the required information for your state and process all title and registration paperwork. As a former Finance Director I learned the hard way how important it is for the Dealer to handle it.
I know this question will come up eventually so here is the answer. You cannot just title a vehicle in the state you purchased it because you A)must be a resident and have a valid address and B)You run the risk of having to pay sales tax in both states! OUCH!
"If you e-mail me, I can tell you about a better deal I have located in Chicago area for EX L.
I dont want to publish it here because the I havent closed yet and the dealer told me I should not make the price public."
I don't see any problem if your going to divulge your price quote in this forum? :confuse: I think that's the purpose of this forum so that internet shoppers would be informed of what's going on in your area. Were not going to that dealer and tell them that keithrl or so and so got a quote of $27100 from you and were also entitled for it... I don't think they even know keithrl?! Hey, that's just my opinion and don't be offended by it. Peace brother.
"I'm sorry, I'm new at this. What does it mean to "trace" a vehicle? Does that mean transfer to another dealer?"
What they are trying to say is " they are trying to locate that specific vehicle from other dealership for you because they don't have it in their inventory."
Congrats mdredmond/hgbee/gocanes for your purchases at Reliance, eversince I highlighted my pleasant experience with them a couple of weeks ago I am glad to see that others have given Reliance a chance to earn your business. The fact is that they are just awesome! I have gotten a couple of followup calls from the Internet manager at Reliance to see if everything is going well with our pilot and if we have any questions.
Been soliciting internet quotes for an EX-L AWD w/o NAV or RES. My quotes have been coming back in the high 28K or low 29K. Yet I see all these post with deals in the 26K range. Am I missing something? :confuse: I realize location plays a part but 2-3K? I see deals with NAV or RES that are better. Are these great deals set off by trade-ins or high % financing?
Location will play a big part in your quest. As I am a Dealer I will defer to the other folks in the forum for the rest of it.
p.s. I do know for a fact that trade-ins and APR are not a factor in these pricings as YOU control whether you trade and YOU control who you finance with.
The dealer's name is Milton Martin Honda. Here is the final quote I received.
Base Price : $ 20,644.00 Leather seating $1,350.00 Destination: $550.00 Documentation $378.00 Title $22.00 Tax $1,604.54 Drive Out Price $24,548.54
They were able to get me the leather seating for LX instead of making me pay for the EX-L package. The deposit I need to put down for them to locate the car and put in leather seating is $1000. I am going to call them tomorrow morning to make it final and hopefully pick up the car next Friday. I will put my experience with If anyone bought cars from this dealership before, please share your experience as well.
No, at least I am not. no trade-ins rip off, no finace arguement. I just prepare all the money and confirm every detail with dealer by email, fax and photos. It is true, now you can get $2000 or more under the invoice.
A honest dealer should provide those info right away,since there is no game and fraud, there are nothing they try to hide. my advice is: if you like to buy from out-state, make sure every detail in the deal before fly down there.
I got my car this monday from Reliance Honda in Houston. Nice car, low (not lowest) price, straight deal. Give a call, nothing hurt to talk.
First, I would like to thank everyone in this forum. The information provided is invaluable and I hope my info will help the next new Pilot buyer!
Back in Dec 05, we took out a loan to buy a Nissan Murano (I know, what were we thinking???). We somehow lost interest before stepping foot in a dealership. It was that whole car buying experience that I dreaded. Luckily, I found this forum!
AFter we test drove, everything happened so fast. Picked up car loan on Sat 7/1, sent out emails to dealers Sun afternoon, finalized on dealer/car on Wed 7/5, and picked up car Fri 7/7!!!
Honda Santa Ana came back with a quote within the hour and the lowest! None of the local dealerships came even close. The dealer where we did the test drive quoted me $1477 OVER INVOICE!
So, we made an appointment, drove 80 miles and were in and out of there in no time. Inspecting the vehicle, filling out the credit app, briefly going through the manual, and financing/paperwork signing all took 1hr 15 minutes. Got in around 4pm and were out of there at 6pm but only because we were waiting for the car to be washed and filled with gas.
Here is my breakdown: 2006 2WD EX w/Leather with Navigation odometer: 26 miles Base price: $27,445 Dest: $550 Accessories: $100 (rear & front mud flaps and wheel locks) Doc fee: $45 Sales tax: $2,180.85 License, registration, tire fee: $255.75 GRAND TOTAL: $30,576.60
Our first internet car buying experience was so easy and fun. I would definitely buy my future HOndas from Honda Santa Ana and will recommend to anyone to buy from them. No hassle, no haggle. The finance guy was so nice and honest. He asked what my APR was through my credit union (5%) and he definitely couldn't beat it. No pressure to buy accessories or extended warranties.
Thank you again for sharing your experiences with everyone.
Sounds like you got a great deal and found a Dealer worthy of recognition. I certainly hope you enjoy your new Pilot for years to come. And as a dealer I appreciate you giving the Finance manager at least the opportunity to compete with your rate even though he couldn't.
1) I received a quote from Aurora Honda for EXL for 26,900 and thought it was a good deal. After reading preceding post, I am not sure.
2) Received a lower quote of 26.400 for EXL from another Chicago area dealer and was about to sign the papers. Then they snuck in this 250 dollar "internet fee" Is that typical? This makes the difference between this and the other dealer. How do people deal with so called internet fees? Can you negotiate them away?
3) Ok, I said two poitns, but one more: When you fly in to buy a car in another city, do dealers sometime arrange for your transportation from airport to dealership, or is one always on ones own for that?
Thanks for all the help that people posting here have been. Regardless of where I end up buying, I will have saved a pile of dough.
It depends upon the Dealer as to whether or not they will pick you up at the airport. Just ask them and they probably will. It is the courteous thing to do.
Comments
I am also a member of USAA and it is a Savings Bank available to Military personnel and their dependents. They have one of the absolute best track records of Banking and Insurance around (Notice the plug) If it is an available source of car/homeowner insurance to you then take advantage!
I'll say. Full coverage (Collision & Comprehensive + Liability) with reasonable deductables will run us $600/year on a brand new Pilot. Pretty good if you ask me...
FYI the banking is available to anyone (not just military and dependants - they opened it up a couple years ago), but the insurance is still restricted.
-mdr
I wanted to ask Anonymous Car Dealer if the Honda incentives apply to any other models. Just curious, as I'll be in the market for another car (not a Pilot) soon...
Anonymous Dealer out
As a long time leaser, I can't help but jump in with a reaction to that quote. If cars are nothing but basic transportation to you, then sure, buy a car, get it paid off, drive it into the ground, get an education in auto parts you never knew existed, and then do it all over again when you finally can't take it any more. But if you really like cars, prefer to have something new and fresh every 3 years, prefer not to ever have to worry about high mileage breakdowns maintenance and repairs, prefer to have a relatively lower monthly car payment (albeit a never ending stream of car payments), prefer to drive a much nicer car than you could otherwise afford on a purchase, then leasing is a wonderful thing. The only vehicle I ever purchased instead of leased was a 1997 Honda Odyssey LX, and I regret it. I got the lowest model, sacraficed features I really wanted, and I still had a monthly payment of nearly $500 for 5 years. Ended up keeping it for 7 years. So 2 years of no car payments after 5 years of high car payments. Would rather have leased 2 new ones over roughly the same timespan with everything I wanted in them and paid say $400 per month. Now I'm LEASING a 2004 Odyssey EX with leather and DVD. Monthly payment is only $405, all-inclusive, no money down, everything rolled into the monthly payment. I have everything I wanted in the vehicle and a reasonable monthly payment too. Lease term is almost over, which is why I am lurking in these forums.
It's nice to enjoy the new car smell every few years but like it or not, from a purely financial standpoint, a lease (or for that matter, a new car) is a foolish thing to do.
Will let you know how it went. As if they are not able to trace it for me (which is rare), deposit will be refunded.
Internet dealers were so great to deal with and even internet sales manager is very good. I enjoyed talking to her, no pressure person.
I don't recommend Turnersville, :mad: they don't stick to their word and treat customers so bad.. unless you are paying them extra 3-4k. Well I don't want to pay 3-4k just to have someone talk to me good for 1-2 hrs. I called in an cancelled my appointment with them, after they started playing with numbers, like adding dealer cost, later getting that out after we argued, then started taking accessories out.. felt sick dealing with them :sick: .
Anyways at the same time, I want to be treated nice, and want dealer to stick to their words. If they can't match the price, just say and don't waste our time.
Take to Conicelli internet department. My email is public, in case you need any advice.
Will keep you guys posted when I get the vehicle (keeping fingers crossed and nothing is sure until you have to keys!)
As far as "When to buy" during a given month... All dealers (as far as I know) push to get those extra few units in at the end of the month. However, If it makes sense for me to take a "skinny" deal anywhere in the month I will do it. It really depends upon their goals, their profit margins, a bonus level... :confuse: The bottom line is that no matter when you buy within a month We as dealers still paid the same amount for the car. Just be informed, know where you stand, and Pay your dealer a profit! Profit is not a 4 letter word, it's not a dirty word, and your dealer spends a TON of money just to get you in the door. (stepping off my soap-box now :P )
The Anonymous Dealer
Also, off topic but can be answered by someone in the know: anything come out for the Odyssey? We're in the market for one of these two...depending on where the best deal is.
Thanks!
If you have your financing arranged then have your credit union get in touch with the Dealer prior to delivery so they have no NEED to run a credit report.
If you are paying cash then the dealer may request to pull a credit file to verify your identity. More and more dealers are requiring this and you should comply. Identity theft is RAMPANT. Also keep in mind the further you live from the dealer the more concerned the dealer becomes. You are talking about an item that once purchased becomes used and titled. (Huge affect on value) Not to mention that we are to take your word that your check is good.
Credit pulls affect your score very little by the way. Check the websites for the three major bureaus for confirmation. If you are applying for "Like" credit i.e. a car then all pulls within a 14 day period are supposed to count as one. The bureaus and lenders realize that more and more customers are shopping rates.
We, as Dealers, are very aware that comsumers are hesitant and reluctant about credit applications when they have their own financing or paying cash. Please also be mindful that Dealers are major targets for Fraud and Theft and must take measures to protect themselves as well as YOU! Just make sure you are dealing with a trustworthy Dealership. Dealerships are required by LAW to protect your information. If you don't trust your Dealership with your information... Should you really be buying a car from them?
The Anonymous Dealer
p.s. I can stop throwing in my 2 cents worth if you would like. I just know in my bones that car buying should be easier than it is.
My concern isn't that I don't trust the dealership, but more of how the credit pull will affect my score. But, as you mentioned, my credit union had to pull it for my car financing a week ago so we should be good to go even if the dealer checks it again.
Thank you again!
Bought an EX-L AWD with Navigation from Gwinnett Place Honda in Atlanta, GA at the end of June. Here are the details (Pro Package is their version of the clear coat paint b.s. + mud guards + moonroof visor). All accessories listed are installed prices.
Base: $28707
ProPkg: $401
Chrome Side Steps: $632
Crossbars: $218
Cargo Tray: Free
Separation Net: Free
Front Air Deflector: Free
Destination: $550
DealerDoc/Reg: $399
Title&Lemon: $31
My OTD for all the above and tax (7%) was $33,133.59
Had also negotiated on the EX-L AWD without navi and had a base of $26,730 and propkg down to $220. They were tougher with the Navi b/c of its popularity.
Loving the vehicle so far & the Navi is definitely worth the extra cost to me.
If my wife and I already secured financing with our credit union do I still need to bring my wife with me to the dealership? Because I'm planning to buy out of state and I think it would be a lot more cheaper not to bring her.
I didn't mean to imply that you didn't trust your Dealer. I meant it as more of a generalized comment. And in your case I would have your credit union representative either give you a pre-approval letter or contact the Dealership directly. The dealership will WANT to have your financing business so if they can match or beat the rate there are no loan fees so you can consider that.
I need my own forum... I can't seem to keep my mouth shut!
Got a question with you about papers to be signed at the dealership.
If my wife and I already secured financing with our credit union do I still need to bring my wife with me to the dealership? Because I'm planning to buy out of state and I think it would be a lot more cheaper not to bring her.
That all depends upon YOUR credit union! You can have a Loan in both of your names and the title in one IF your credit union will allow it! In your case you would have to coordinate with your credit union because they may be assisting you with your title work. OR you will have to do the title work yourself OR the Dealership in the state you purchase will be doing it. (with me so far?)If the Dealership handles your tax, title, license for your HOME STATE i.e. Florida then your credit union (if they will allow it) can tell them to title in only your name and you can sign the paperwork at the Dealership and be done! If the credit union will NOT allow it then the Dealer can have you sign and FedEx the paperwork home for your wife to sign. In either case she does not have to make the trip. Again... the lien Holder gets to decide. If you purchase a car at the dealership and the Dealership handles the financing then both should be present to sign the Loan DOCS and I am pretty sure MOST Dealerships in MOST States would then be required to have both on the title. I made this lengthy to cover additional situations in this forum.
The bottom line in your case is this. Your wife does not have to make the trip and if her signature is required they can FedEx paperwork back and forth. The Dealership may require the DOCS be notarized.
The Anonymous (yet longwinded) Dealer
In your case if the Dealership does not require doing the title work and registration you will have separate tax issues! You will either have to have the money in your account to pay it separately when you register the vehicle or your credit union can do a separate loan for t,t,l and merge the two. You will also have to obtain the MSO/MCO which is the Manufacturer's certificate of Origin. It is needed to issue title for the vehicle and Dealerships are NOT wild about handing one to you! They would rather send it to the State (Who can then proptly LOSE it!) or to your Credit union. It really is BEST to force the Dealer to do their JOB and get all of the required information for your state and process all title and registration paperwork. As a former Finance Director I learned the hard way how important it is for the Dealer to handle it.
I know this question will come up eventually so here is the answer. You cannot just title a vehicle in the state you purchased it because you A)must be a resident and have a valid address and B)You run the risk of having to pay sales tax in both states! OUCH!
The Anonymous Dealer
Thanks again and I will definitely post my buying experience this weekend.
I dont want to publish it here because the I havent closed yet and the dealer told me I should not make the price public."
I don't see any problem if your going to divulge your price quote in this forum? :confuse: I think that's the purpose of this forum so that internet shoppers would be informed of what's going on in your area. Were not going to that dealer and tell them that keithrl or so and so got a quote of $27100 from you and were also entitled for it... I don't think they even know keithrl?!
What they are trying to say is " they are trying to locate that specific vehicle from other dealership for you because they don't have it in their inventory."
The fact is that they are just awesome! I have gotten a couple of followup calls from the Internet manager at Reliance to see if everything is going well with our pilot and if we have any questions.
p.s. I do know for a fact that trade-ins and APR are not a factor in these pricings as YOU control whether you trade and YOU
The Anonymous Dealer
Base Price : $ 20,644.00
Leather seating $1,350.00
Destination: $550.00
Documentation $378.00
Title $22.00
Tax $1,604.54
Drive Out Price $24,548.54
They were able to get me the leather seating for LX instead of making me pay for the EX-L package. The deposit I need to put down for them to locate the car and put in leather seating is $1000. I am going to call them tomorrow morning to make it final and hopefully pick up the car next Friday. I will put my experience with If anyone bought cars from this dealership before, please share your experience as well.
A honest dealer should provide those info right away,since there is no game and fraud, there are nothing they try to hide. my advice is: if you like to buy from out-state, make sure every detail in the deal before fly down there.
I got my car this monday from Reliance Honda in Houston. Nice car, low (not lowest) price, straight deal. Give a call, nothing hurt to talk.
Check with other people expirence......
Back in Dec 05, we took out a loan to buy a Nissan Murano (I know, what were we thinking???). We somehow lost interest before stepping foot in a dealership. It was that whole car buying experience that I dreaded. Luckily, I found this forum!
AFter we test drove, everything happened so fast. Picked up car loan on Sat 7/1, sent out emails to dealers Sun afternoon, finalized on dealer/car on Wed 7/5, and picked up car Fri 7/7!!!
Honda Santa Ana came back with a quote within the hour and the lowest! None of the local dealerships came even close. The dealer where we did the test drive quoted me $1477 OVER INVOICE!
So, we made an appointment, drove 80 miles and were in and out of there in no time. Inspecting the vehicle, filling out the credit app, briefly going through the manual, and financing/paperwork signing all took 1hr 15 minutes. Got in around 4pm and were out of there at 6pm but only because we were waiting for the car to be washed and filled with gas.
Here is my breakdown:
2006 2WD EX w/Leather with Navigation
odometer: 26 miles
Base price: $27,445
Dest: $550
Accessories: $100 (rear & front mud flaps and wheel locks)
Doc fee: $45
Sales tax: $2,180.85
License, registration, tire fee: $255.75
GRAND TOTAL: $30,576.60
Our first internet car buying experience was so easy and fun. I would definitely buy my future HOndas from Honda Santa Ana and will recommend to anyone to buy from them. No hassle, no haggle. The finance guy was so nice and honest. He asked what my APR was through my credit union (5%) and he definitely couldn't beat it. No pressure to buy accessories or extended warranties.
Thank you again for sharing your experiences with everyone.
Sounds like you got a great deal and found a Dealer worthy of recognition. I certainly hope you enjoy your new Pilot for years to come. And as a dealer I appreciate you giving the Finance manager at least the opportunity to compete with your rate even though he couldn't.
ENJOY!!!
The Anonymous Dealer
1) I received a quote from Aurora Honda for EXL for 26,900 and thought it was a good deal. After reading preceding post, I am not sure.
2) Received a lower quote of 26.400 for EXL from another Chicago area dealer and was about to sign the papers. Then they snuck in this 250 dollar "internet fee" Is that typical? This makes the difference between this and the other dealer. How do people deal with so called internet fees? Can you negotiate them away?
3) Ok, I said two poitns, but one more: When you fly in to buy a car in another city, do dealers sometime arrange for your transportation from airport to dealership, or is one always on ones own for that?
Thanks for all the help that people posting here have been. Regardless of where I end up buying, I will have saved a pile of dough.
Good luck with your purchase experience!
The Anonymous Dealer