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The New 5W-20 grade - Good or Bad for your engine

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Comments

  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I don't think it's clear just whose to benefit by the recommendation of using 5W-20. Is it really what's best for the engine? We can't automatically assume 5W-20 is best for the engine just because the owner's manual recommends using it. Most owner's manuals also recommend changing your oil and filter every 7,500 miles, even when using dino. How many dinos are good for 7,500 miles? I haven't found one yet. Most turn to crap well before 5K miles, and yet the manual says it's OK to leave it in for 7,500. Only a fool (or someone who doesn't care how long their engine lasts) would run dino this long. In this case, I'd say the owner's manual recommendation means nothing.
  • knapp3knapp3 Member Posts: 112
    Don't forget, 7,500 miles is usually for "normal" service. Most people with short trips, inadequate engine warm ups, or lots of city driving don't qualify. They may fit more appropriately in the "severe" category...3K or something. Even Ford's "normal" service for 5W20 oil is only 5K, not 7,500.

    Nonetheless, I agree with you that one needs to be very diligent running this oil too long. Many UOA for 5W20 are coming in A-ok. Mine at 3,250 was "just" A-ok IMHO. I'm running Castrol 5W20 for the 1st time right now. Will be very interested in seeing how it eventually compares to Motorcraft.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I didn't explain myself very well. No dino oil is good for 7,500 miles regardless of driving conditions and yet, most manufacturers say you can go that long between oil changes. This is one reason I'm leary of believing 5W-20 is the best weight to run even though it's recommended. Another reason I'm leary is because oil shears as it's used, in other words, the oil's viscosity decreases as it's used. An oil that starts out as a 20 wt oil, can end up being as low as a 10 wt oil by the time it's time to change it. a 10 wt oil is just too thin to adequately protect an engine. I think the 5W-20 recommendation is for reasons other than what's best for your engine. I will probably use 5W-30.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    ...to clarify: 5W-20 and 5W-30 are both 5 weight oils. That is not a maybe. One of them has an additive package that will allow the oil to act at full running temperature as though it were 20 weight oil, instead of 5 weight. The other 5 weight oil has an additive package that allows it to act like 30 weight oil at full running temperature. Neither of these oils is a 20 weight oil, nor a 30 weight oil.
    I just bought 17 quarts of Valvoline 5W-20, which I'll get to using in a couple months or so.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    However, oil still breaks down and loses viscosity (even if it gets it's viscosity from additive packages) as it's used and because of this, I wouldn't be comfortable using the 5W-20.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I have discovered that NAPA now supplies 5W-20 oil in their house brand, "NAPA OIL." This is Valvoline oil in a NAPA bottle. It sells for $1.19 per quart in my area. In my opinion, it is totally interchangeable with Valvoline, and therefore represents a very good buy, only superseded when Valvoline goes on rebate sale at places like Checker Auto.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    .......and didn't like it at all. Don't know about their non high mileage oils, but IMHO, Chevron/Havoline is much better oil.
  • knapp3knapp3 Member Posts: 112
    Blottgers, you are right about some 30 wt oils shearing back to a 20 wt. I've seen some UOA reports where that has happened. But honestly, I've not seen any where a 5W20 oil sheared back to a 10 wt yet. Maybe others have, but not me. What I've seen so far is that this oil is holding up very well and showing some good wear nuumbers where people have had it tested. It appears to be blended as a tough little oil and has to pass the double sequence IIIF test which many other oil weights don't have to. I've also seen some longer duration useage, like 5,000+ miles, where 5W20 didn't fare too well.

    So like all other generalizations about oil, it really depends...
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ....in favor or against the use of 5W-20 yet. I guess I haven't seen enough info to base an opinion on. I guess I'll have to keep researching.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    bottgers said:

    No dino oil is good for 7,500 miles regardless of driving conditions

    Where does your information come from? How often have you seen engines die because the oil was not changed on time?

    I've seen many examples where people don't change their oil nearly as often with no adverse effects.

    My father, for instance, changes the oil in his car only once a year. That is about 15K miles between changes on average. He's had his car (Mercedes) for about 12 years now, I think, and he's never had any engine problems.

    Or take for instance a colleague of mine - he stopped changing the oil of his Maxima, and drove for 80K miles without an oil change (hoping for the car to die so that he can justify buying another one). Finally, he went to a mechanic for some minor problem, and the mechanic changed his oil without asking him. This was because it was totally black. What my colleague does is just add a quart of oil when his OIL light comes on. I think he has close to 150K miles on his car now.

    This is all anecdotal evidence, but where is the proof that dark oil, oil over X number of miles, oil whose weight has dropped to X, oil whose viscosity has deteriorated to X, oil whose level of iron has increased to X, etc, will damage your engine? I think your car will die of a number of other causes before the engine gives up. For most cars, anyway.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    I'm not dropping algebraic equations into this discussion, but as a former service manager, the "long time between changes" is a strong contributing factor to engine failure - why would anyone argue that it's not?

    Also, people who don't change their oil, the most basic of vehicle maintenance operations, usually neglect every other system in the car (fuel filter, air filter, fuel injection cleaning, transmission service). That concept, to me, is insane.

    Why would anyone spend good money on a vehicle, any vehicle, then not spend a little more to maintain it? Sure you don't have to follow the dealer's recommendations and have the windshield washer fuild flush service for $69.95 or have your muffler bearings changed, but the norm of 3-5K oil changes, 15-20 trans services, 10K air filter changes, 15-20K fuel filter changes, etc isn't a lot of money for increased peace of mind.

    One thing that many folks don't realize is that a good used car manager or experienced consumer can tell if your car has been maintained. I know I cann (I'm an appraiser) and I'll dog the car on trade value accordingly.....
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    There are actually quite a few places where you can see test results of oil analysis showing that no conventional motor oils, and even some of the synthetics are not good for 7,500 miles. Some of that info is posted right here in maintenance and repair in the motor oil threads. The other place is in bobistheoilguy.com. Even the very best conventionals are no good past 5K, and some of the poor ones have shown breakdown in as little as 1K miles.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    ...that 5W-20 works well in the engines for which it is designated, provided the oil change period does not exceed 5K.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    Where is all this mounting evidence? I'd like to see it.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I'd be glad to read it, where is it.
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    I just deleted my last post. It didn't sound exactly friendly, when I reread it. As for the source of information at my disposal, it is the same as yours. I rather vaguely recall someone posting some material recently that gave me the idea that 5W-20 seems to be doing its job, BUT you need to change it early. It is not a good grade for going the long distance. I recall the limit set at 5K, and that is far beyond my oil and filter changing period, 3K. Therefore, I am willing to run some 5W-20 as recommended by Ford Corporation, in my 2002 Mountaineer V8. I hope to gain a little peace of mind concerning the warranty this way, as well as check out the new weight. I just finished tax return number 9 for my family members and I'm a little frazzled!
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    bottgers - "no good past 5K" doesn't mean anything to me. What is "good" and what is "no good"? You just look at a number of specific parameters in the oil that have deteriorated, and claim the oil is "no good". But actually the oil may still be good for lubricating the engine adequately. Maybe you can extend the life of your engine by shorter oil change intervals, but then again, your engine life is, by default, longer than the life of the rest of the car – so why trying to prolong the engine life?

    zueslewis - Yes, neglecting your car (as in no oil change in 80K miles) is definitely not a wise thing to do. (Some people may get lucky and get away with it.) But I think people fall into one of two extremes - they either change their oil way too often, or completely neglect their car. I think 15-20K mile oil change interval, even with dino oil, should make most engines outlive the rest of the car.

    My father takes very good care of his car. This is because he knows absolutely nothing about cars and brings his car once a year to the Mercedes dealership where he tells them to do everything they think should be done. So his car is well maintained (and I suspect they probably change things way too often in order to get his money), yet by virtue of doing this once per year he ends up changing his oil only once per year. His car must be 12 or 13 years old, by now, and he's been following this schedule since new. He's had no engine problems and I believe this to be the norm rather than the exception, given his maintenance/oil change schedule.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    with regular oil is not only not good for the engine, it's a ridiculous thing to do to save $20 every three or four months - I see no reason NOT to maintain your car - that's my point.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    Why is 15-20K miles ridiculous? How do you respond to someone who changes their oil every 1K miles and claims that every 2-3K miles is ridiculously long? How do you respond when they tell you that $20 is negligible and so you should change it every 1K miles? Well, forget 1K miles. How about changing your oil every 500 miles? Every 200? After every trip?

    Who stipulates what the limit is, anyway? My manual specifies oil change every 10K miles with dino oil, and I think they are overly conservative.

    I am not talking about saving $20. I am saying that 15-20K mile change period is adequate in my opinion. I advocate regular maintenance - by all means change your oil regularly, every 15-20K miles!
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    and I'm not talking about the oil change frequency hype that Jiffy Lube pushes.

    I'm in the industry - I get to see cases involving engine failure every day. Still, I don't take an alarmist attitude and change my oil once a week - I also won't let it go to 15-20K because I've seen test results on what happens to regular oil after 4-5K and synthetic after 7-9K - I'd say your old man is a lucky guy with his Mercedes.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    The only way you can determine what is good and what is no good is by looking oil analysis test results. I've seen enough of the results to confidently tell you there isn't a conventional motor oil made that can adequately protect an engine if you run that oil for 15-20K miles. With that many miles on it, that oil is providing about as much lubrication as auto tranny fluid, which isn't much. There may be a very few synthetics that can go that long, but running any conventional that long is just asking for trouble.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    zueslewis - I must admit I am more conservative now, but when I had my '97 BMW M3 I used to go by the lights - you get five green initially, and they go out one by one, until an orange one comes, and then you have to do your maintenance. If you wait further, a red light comes on. I used to push my car a lot, and always went by the lights - first oil change I believe was at above 12K miles. I think the oil BMW uses is the pseudo-synthetic Castrol. Drove the car 50K miles (with only 3 or 4 oil changes and all scheduled service was performed too, of course), and never had an engine problem. 50K miles is not a lot but I wasn't planning on keeping the car any longer (past the warranty) so for MY PURPOSES, this schedule fit me just fine. I have no idea if the overall engine life was shortened a bit as a result, but neither do I care.

    bottgers - again, how do you relate oil analysis to engine protection? Let's say the oil has X amount of any substance per milliliter - how do you know if that is adequate/inadequate to protect your engine? And where did you come up with the assertion that after 15K miles the engine oil will be like AFT?
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    why are you here?

    We're here to learn and talk about cars. I'm considered an automotive expert in courts in 3 states, but I learn something here on Edmunds EVERY SINGLE DAY.

    You go ahead and do what you want, but arguing about oil analysis, or what it shows, and arguing about oil life, with no concept of what an oil analysis proves, goes to show that you're flying by the seat of your pants and don't understand what lubricants do.

    I'll protect my investments - do what you want with yours.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    ....I get the feeling if you provide them with air, you have to breath it for them too. sgrd0q, if you look at an oil analysis, it will tell you what the numbers mean, and what is considered good or bad. After running a conventional oil for 15-20K miles, it's viscosity will pretty much be broken down to 0W-0. Only an idiot, or someone trying to find out what it takes to ruin an engine would run conventional motor oil for 15-20K miles.
  • mountainownermountainowner Member Posts: 28
    Bottgers....I posted a 5W-20 test from my 4.6L 2002 Mercury Mountaineer. You can review the results, post #329. The post actually contains the results of 2 tests. The first was used 5W-20 and the second was virgin 5W-20. For my vehicle the 5W-20 is performing well, 5,100 miles on the oil and the lab told me in their estimation the oil had another 2k miles of life. I also posted the results on Bobistheoilguy's page and there was some good debate on the results. I was as concerned as others regarding the protection of 5W-20, and I ran the test to answer my concerns. Based on this test, I'll continue to use 5W-20 Amsoil as I have since 1k miles in this vehicle.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    I don't know how relevent those numbers are to me as I won't be using synthetic. I'm looking to see how 5W-20 conventional will hold up.
  • according2meaccording2me Member Posts: 236
    for your fathers annual service. I'd be surprised if the Merc dealer didn't use a full synthetic.

    And from reading other import boards, it appears that the Castrol being used by Euro-make dealers is infact the Euro-spec full synthetic Castrol product. Yes, Castrol does make a full synth, they just haven't distributed it here.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    If Castrol hasn't distributed their full synthetic here, what is that stuff of theirs I see on the store shelves that says "full synthetic" on the bottle?
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    what is "Syntec" - it doesn't say "blend" anywhere on the bottle.
  • tbonertboner Member Posts: 402
    Here we go into the what is a true synthetic argument.

    There are lots of data elements to examine, and not just the mileage. I believe that many European cars can go a greater distance on synthetic oil because they have greater crankcase capacities.

    Generally speaking, if you have a crankcase that holds 10 quarts of oil, you can probably go about twice the interval between changes than say with a crankcase that holds 5 quarts of oil.

    But then, every engine, every driver, and even the oil use choose is different, so of course, your mileage may vary.

    For example, I'm sure the OTR truckers that use conventional oils are not changing every 3k, or 5k or even 10k miles. I'm sure they go over 10k miles between oil changes. Of course, their crankcase is filled by the gallon, not by the quart, so they can safely do this.

    Also, how much make up oil do you add? If you add enough make up oil, you might be able to run it a bit longer, since you are getting some fresh additives.

    But I'll agree with those who say the only way you can really know is by doing an oil analysis.

    TB
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    you're dealing with a 14-25 quart (in some cases, even more) oil capacity and an engine that NEVER sees over 2,000 rpm - huge difference between that and a 4 quart capacity Ford Zetec 2.0 engine with a 7,000 redline.
  • tbonertboner Member Posts: 402
    with my point. There are many different cars, trucks, engines, crankcase capacities and such and all of these factor in to determine an oils useful life.

    My 87 LeSabre with its relatively low revving 3.8L V6 is probably easier on oil than my SVT Contour that frequently visits its 7K hard rev limiter.

    TB
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    that's why I feaked over the guy saying it's OK to run 15-20K on regular oil in "anything" -
  • according2meaccording2me Member Posts: 236
    I have nothing against the Syntec oil, I just think it is overpriced for a Group3 severely hydrocracked dino w/ a good additive package. They won the case in court to be able to call their product full-synth. That doesn't mean I have to believe that it is.

    And unless you stumbled across some of the 0w40 made in Germany by Castrol on the store shelves, what you see is the Group3 product.

    Semantics aside, for myself, a PAO/ester based product = synthetic and a group3 hydrocracked product = a very good dino oil w/robust additive package.

    The point of my last message was to ascertain if sgrd0q's father's annual oil changes, used a regular dino, group3 or synthetic.

    I find it very hard to believe a group2 oil can go 1 year and 15K without sludging up. Group3 maybe,synthetic maybe.
  • jeffbogjeffbog Member Posts: 63
    This is the reason I'd be afraid to by a late model used car. Maybe a city beater, but definitely not a 3-series.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    according2me said: The point of my last message was to ascertain if sgrd0q's father's annual oil changes, used a regular dino, group3 or synthetic.

    I'll find out. I assume the dealer uses what Mercedes recommends. I'll try to find out what oil they use.

    zueslewis said: you're flying by the seat of your pants and don't understand what lubricants do

    Well lubricants lubricate, I assume.

    There is no detailed statistical data - we all are using empirical arguments.

    If you take any component in your oil and wait until you reach a certain level before you change your oil, and keep doing so until the engine fails – then you have one experiment. Now do the same, but only wait until the component reaches another level before oil changes. Again record when the engine fails. Repeat for other levels. Now to have a statistically significant result, repeat all of the above a number of times (depending on your confidence interval) .

    Then you can tell me how harmful certain element elevation in the oil actually is.

    As far as I know nobody has done any such analysis. (This may involve thousands of identical engines running hundreds of thousands of miles.)

    Also, I am simplifying by monitoring only one element. If you monitor more - you have more complicated analysis.

    The truth is you can only guess by looking at various oil analysis results. And also, it depends on your application - e.g. do you want to get 50K, 100K, 200K miles out of the engine.
  • bottgersbottgers Member Posts: 2,030
    It sounds like you and your father are well on your way to finding out just what it takes to make an engine fail. When you do find out, let us know. In the meantime, I'll be changing my oil and filter every 5K miles.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    and I DO know what makes engines fail, since it's my job to know.

    I'd explain it, but you'd just argue, so I'll spend my time doing something else.
  • sgrd0qsgrd0q Member Posts: 398
    Hey, zueslewis, that's ok! Do use your time as you please!
  • zueslewiszueslewis Member Posts: 2,353
    I thought maybe you knew more about my time than I did.
  • inky4inky4 Member Posts: 238
    Still on the mobil one web site but yet to be seen in Maryland or Oklahoma
    INKY
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Valvoline states on each quart of 5W-20 that it it meets the requirements of FOMOCO & HONDA. Presuming that is true, it's a winner. I bought 17 quarts at 99 cents a jug. That's a double winner.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    somebody else posted a good while back that Mobil was selling that synthetic only in cold-weather states where it would be needed. I doubt shivering downtown Tulsa or malarial northern Virginia (foreign diplomats used to get hazard pay for being in Washington, D.C. because of malaria on occasion in the 1800s) touch the 10 and 20 below range often enough to have it on the eye-level shelf for fastest sale... or any shelf for any sale.

    it could be ordered if you needed it for an aircraft turbine, I expect
  • vinyljunkievinyljunkie Member Posts: 31
    I just recently bought a 2003 Accord Sedan 4cylinder. After reading all of your posts...well, I learned nothing. Or let me say anything that would steer me away from 5W-20. I am going to buy Mobil 1 5W-20 and use that. I live in Los Anegeles, but do not do that much driving.

    Also, what is "dino" oil?
  • maltbmaltb Member Posts: 3,572
    Also, what is "dino" oil?

    Stop into the LaBrea Tar Pits sometime: http://www.tarpits.org/
  • vinyljunkievinyljunkie Member Posts: 31
    Ahhh, that is what I thought it was...thanks for the quick answer.

    Or maybe I will use 5W-30...
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    Geologists are now giving credence to the possibility that petroleum is a renewable resource not derived from dinosaurs at all.
    I find this newer view far more plausible than the old.
  • swschradswschrad Member Posts: 2,171
    that particular discussion has escaped me, perhaps I need a mint ;) where then did it come from?
  • inky4inky4 Member Posts: 238
    Mobil wrote me that the new 0w20 will be in walmart sometime in May. Till then, I will hold on.
    INKY
  • fleetwoodsimcafleetwoodsimca Member Posts: 1,518
    The source is proposed to be primordial methane, being generated and "boiled" outward from the Earth's core. This would suggest the resource to be renewable for millions of years to come.
This discussion has been closed.