Mazda6 Maintenance and Repair

seaf · June 2003

why you can't have the defog with A/C on, and have the heater selection midway or something to control the actual temperature inside the car? The temperature control should work as usual no matter defog/AC is on or not. All it does is control how much of the engine compartment's heat is channeled through to the cabin. The AC's compressor would pump moisture out of the cabin like usual. This is how most cars defog while not chilling the inside too much.

Also, if turning on the A/C creates so much cold air on the windshiled that outside air condenses, then have you tried changing the vents to blow out the dash and under the dash (instead of above the dash).

ashutoshsm · June 2003

And coming from the land of the monsoons, I was always taught to defog with my AC on, heat turned to max and vents blowing rather hard - for the emergency initial defog when getting into a car that's been sitting in the heavy rain for a really long time. Then tone down on the heat to comfort levels. Essentially, the dehumidifying ability of the AC system increases at higher temperatures (the system becomes more efficient - I'm not implying the compressor does!)

jampedro · June 2003

I agree, heat with A/C is best for inside defogging and prevents outside condensation. But here in the tropics, it's then too warm in the car. Depending on the conditions, esp. how many breathers in the car, I sometimes find an acceptable temperature level to satisfy all three needs: inside defogging, no outside condensation and happy passengers. But most times, it's difficult to satisfy all 3.

What I don't have as an option in my 6 is to have defog without A/C which sometimes is an adequate(and most economical) solution. Do all new cars force A/C when in defog mode? All my other cars had the option.

seaf · June 2003

I think I read in the honda forums that the AC comes on automatically with the defog button, but then you can turn off the AC by pressing the AC button. Also for honda cars, there's a trick where you hold some AC and defog buttons for a number of seconds while you start the car...Don't know the exact specifics. But it does sound like the mazda6 SHOULD have the option of turning off the AC while defogging.

comet63 · June 2003

After reading all these replies, I realize my problem isn't just fog, it's outside condensation also. My A/C blows the air onto the windshield and causes the condensation. Even when I choose the floor only vent circulation, this happens. I can turn the defogger on high, temp in the middle of cold/hot and it goes away, but it comes back if I turn on A/C again (it's Houston and hot here-a/c is a must). I guess I am learning to ignore the problem somewhat. I wonder if Mazda is aware and will find a solution to it.

mazdafun · June 2003

Even when directed towards the floor, a little is directed towards the windshield. If it's humid enough outside, condensation will form on the outside of the windshield. Happens to most cars I've driven in humid weather. I just flick the wiper every now and then.

metenuzero · June 2003

After a horrific series of visits to my dealer service department, initially to fix warped rotors, I find at only 1000 miles later the brake pulsation that was attributed to the warped rotors is back. For what reason should a car initially at 4000 miles, and now again at 5000 miles have warped rotors? I live in Florida, so the terrain is flat, and I doubt that I brake more than the regular driver. My dealer said the first time was probably because the car sat on a lot in the florida sun for a month (which incidently wasn't true because I ordered the car from the factory), and I keep it in an air conditioned garage. Is this a sign of a problem with the brakes themselves? It is so frustrating because I love every aspect of the car, but every time I have to slow down or stop the steering wheel shakes obtrusively. I'm planning a 2000+ mile trip for the summer, and I am worried that the problem will reoccure. Can driving a car with warped rotors damage other aspects of the car? Thanks.

mazda6s · June 2003

If they only resurfaced the rotors and didn't replace them, the rotors could be bad (or they did a crappy job of resurfacing them). I'd ask for them to be replaced. This seems to be a common problem these days.

No, warped rotors won't damage the car.

glideslopes · June 2003

I would insist on a new set or rotors. The metal may be abnormally soft on yours, contributing to the continued warping. I have not seen brake issues mentioned here or on the other Mazda6 site. If the dealer gives you trouble call Mazda.

I have almost 3,000 hard miles on my 6s with no warping.

Mark. : )

mazda6s · June 2003

If the dealer doesn't want to replace them, I'd go higher at Mazda and rattle some cages.

mjvchicago · June 2003

I've had my MZ6 for 2 months now and am ready to do the first wax job on it. Also want to treat/clean the leather to keep it nice. Any suggestions you all have on products you stand by? I've been seriously looking at Liquid Glass since it has a good shine and protective quality from what I've read. Any thoughts on that or other products you like?

Also, should I assume that the dealer put a layer of wax on this car? It still beads and has a beautiful shine.

stretchsje · June 2003

I use Liquid Glass, and am very happy with it. With every coat comes even more shine.

ashutoshsm · June 2003

... is washing your car with COLD water (even a drive-through wash) while they're hot from a combination of heavy use, stop and go driving, and warm weather. This is from research someone else performed over at the Protege board.

Are you washing it regularly in cold water after a spirited Zoom-Zoom-ing trip? If not - I'd hope its just a faulty set and the dealer should replace it.

mjvchicago · June 2003

Cool... any tips or tricks from your experience? Also, I picked up the pre-wax thing from Liquid Glass. Is that all I need to do to prep the car for the first LG application?

stretchsje · June 2003

On a new car, even the pre-wax is unnecessary. It removes swirl marks, but on a new car there should be none. Still, since you have it, might as well use it.

I just washed and applied the wax. Then, a few days later, did the same thing. Then, a week later, did the same thing. Then, a month later, did the same thing. Looks better each time.

glideslopes · June 2003

ashutoshsm has a very good point. Be very aware of when you wash your car.

Mark.

narenji · June 2003

Just did the paperwork for a 6i, but the dealer said that the brakes either hadn't been inspected since delivery or there was some sort of brake recall so they had to check the brakes before letting me drive off the lot with the car. I was furious that they found this out after the paperwork was done. they filled up my protege so i could go home and return tomorrow to get the 6i. anyone heard of this? do you think i just got duped into not taking the car home? i got $300 over inv and they gave me 8900 for my 01 pro es+1250 owner loyalty. they kept claiming how this is a "loss deal" or whatever because of how much they were giving me for my pro es in this soft used car market...

ashutoshsm · June 2003

Something doesn't sound right - or they're being truly honest on the brake thing. Fortunately, with the help of our resident Mazda friends (they'll appear tomorrow, I hope!), you'll be able to tell whether they're bluffing or not.

And 8900 for a 2001 Pro ES - wow, that's crazy depreciation. Just to try and sell it yourself, you may want to modify the deal (if they lied about the brake thing and you have the right to!)
Think about it!

I would much rather sell my own Pro myself, as and when (soon, I hope!) I buy a new car.

jbchapman · June 2003

Sometimes, the service tech just doesn't do the work, or does it badly. I had a similar experience with my '96 Accord a couple of years ago. (The car was well out of warranty by that time.) This was a dealer service dept. that I had always found to be reliable in the past. On a routine brake service, they replaced the pads and turned the rotors (or at least charged me for turning the rotors). 1000 mi. later I brought it in because the brakes were chattering, and they diagnosed it as a rough rotor surface. When I pointed out that they had recently turned them, they redid the work at no charge.

narenji · June 2003

well they said it was something they're supposed to perform on every new car before it leaves the lot, and for some reason my car's inspection wasn't done. the techs had gone home for the day, so she couldn't let me take the car. i bought the car around 5pm, but by the time everything was done it was already 6pm, and the techs had gone for the day. she offered to drive the car to my house, but i refused, because i'd rather drive the car rather than have a porter drive/abuse the car home...

caligirl94 · June 2003

I don't know if this is the reason or not, but I have heard that there was a recall on certain 6's brakes/?lights?. I'm not exactly sure what the problem was or which ones it affected, but I'm pretty sure someone over on the other boards could tell you, since that was where I read about it. It didn't look like anything major, more of just a technicality. I do know the recall included 6's that were made up through the end of May. Good luck!

bob08857 · June 2003

I know this isn't specifically a MZ6 problem, but I figure I'll float it here. By some major stupidity, I managed to put some fine scratches in my windshield, similar to the wear scratches you get from wiper wear. Does anyone know of a method to remove or cover these?
Thanks for ANY advice
Bob LaPadura

mazda6s · June 2003

Bob-
Sometimes an auto glass shop can polish them out. I had a similar problem a while back. As a rough test, they said if you can catch a fingernail on it they probably can't take it out. I'd take the car to an auto glass shop and have them look at it. By the way you described it, they should be able to fix it. I wouldn't mess with it yourself, as you might make it worse.

ashutoshsm · June 2003

Wow - I didn't realize what a pain it could be! I experienced it on my drive home after picking the car up and had to keep increasing the temperatur with the AC/defogger on and turning on the wipers occasionally to keep it under control! And given that last night was the hottest night of the year so far in this area - I hated having to turn the heat up.

RAIN-X, here I come

(I understand that's helped, or should help, right?)

shortbuskid · June 2003

I have about 1000 miles on my new 6s and after the shock and awe of owning such a great car wore off I noticed the car likes to pull to the left. Depending on how sloped the road is the car will either pull hard to the left or, it the road is level, it will "drift" into the next lane. I constintaly have to hold a right correction of about two inches when I drive down the highway. My hand gets very tired after a while. The dealer had the car re-aligned but the problem is still there. Now I have to wait for the "head warranty guy" to come to town because the tech that drove me and observed the problem wasn't good enough. Anyone else heard of this problem?

mazda6s · June 2003

This problem can be caused by tires. I had this problem once on a new car.
An easy way to find out is to swap the front wheel from the side that it pulls to with another wheel.

mazsixs · June 2003

I just took delivery of a new 6S and I have experienced the exact same symptoms as shortbuskid, however my vehicle bears right not left. My dealer said it was drift and torque steer. The car handles great, however I find I always have to hold the wheel in place as it will not track straight on any surface. My dealer swears it is in spec and perfectly aligned. I am ready to escalate the problem higher. Please let me know what your head warranty guy tells you as the more information I have will help me convince these guys that something is not correct with the steering characteristics of my Mazda. Thanks.

mazda6s · June 2003

Your dealer is BSing you. Torque steer would only occur under heavy throttle, and the 6s has very little torque steer anyway. I would have the tires checked. This is a common problem.

mazsixs · June 2003

mazda6s,

Thank you for the suggestion, however I have already been down that road ! I started out with Enkei after market rims , and went back to the factory 17 inch wheels with stock Michelin tires. Then I upgraded to a better tire Michelin Pilot A/S sport 225/45/ directional tire . I have not , however rotated the tires front to back, and now I am curious if this could solve the problem. It is worth a try before I head back to the dealer. I am still curious to see if shortbuskid got his issue resolved, because as I said before , my problem is identical to his, except I have to correct to the left to compensate for a right hand pull. I hope to get a straight answer soon !

mazda6s · June 2003

Did you have the exact same problem with all the tires you had on the car? If so, it's not likely it's the tires because you'd have to have a "puller" on the right front with each set of tires!

mazsixs · June 2003

Yes I had the same exact problems with all tires, which leads me to believe it could be suspension related. I am hoping to hear from the other guy(shortbuskid) to see if he got a fix. I am worried it might be a factory defect, but I will let the dealer make that call. Thanks for your advice, and if you have any other ideas as to what it could be I would be most grateful.

mazda6s · June 2003

It might be worth a trip to an independent alignment shop to get an unbiased opinion.

clemulus · June 2003

I have also noticed my car pulls to the left. Let me know if you hear anything.

shortbuskid · June 2003

So I switched my two front tires with no change. The dealer has not tried to feed me the "torque pull" yet. But when I took the tech for a ride with me I set the cruise control at 60 mph and tried three different lanes just to prove my point. I have the alignment specs. that the independent shop sent back when they sent my car out to be aligned, but without knowing what they should be or what they were before, they are not of much help. That is until I have to appeal to a higher authority. I was told the head warranty guy was supposed to be in this Thursday so I'll see what he says and let you know.

mazsixs · June 2003

Well,
My nightmare continues...I took it to an independent alignment shop where they proceeded to make only minor adjustments within the specifications set forth by Mazda. Sixty bucks later and several tire rotations and I was right back to where I started. The car still pulls right and I have to hold a left correction...the drift is severe. I marched straight back to the dealer where I bought the car and they got there top technician with 15 years Mazda experience to ride with me and now they are revisiting the problem...it may have to be written up and referred to the engineers at Mazda....I am not looking forward to the next few days...right now I am in standby mode, just waiting to have the pleasure of driving my otherwise perfect Mazda 6s 5speed again someday...hopefully...this could be their last chance as far as I am concerned....one possible idea is your head warranty guy could contact my dealer as well and maybe collaborate to solve both our problems...I did hear of another person that is experiencing the same problem at my dealership, along with the new guy who added his comments today...I am thinking it might be chronic in some vehicles...hopefully not an epidemic !!!

mjvchicago · July 2003

When I put the car in reverse. It happens like this:

1. I start the car.
2. Put the clutch in.
3. Shift into reverse.
4. Apply gas/release clutch.
5. Car moves backwards.
6. Reapply clutch to better control backward movement.

Upon reapplying the clutch, theres a very muted scritchy sound that lasts for a split-second. The best way to describe it would be that it's similar to the sound your tranny would make if you shifted without pressing in the clutch, only 100 times softer and nowhere near as abrupt. Indeed, one would hardly notice it at all unless they had the radio off and extremely acute hearing.

So has anyone expereienced this too? It's no big deal (I hope!) but it happens every time I do it and wanted to know if it was happening to anyone else.

aardog21 · July 2003

hudalla; I hope your rattle is taken care of by now; but here is a quick note on the one I had. It was just an occasional vibration, a metal on metal sound. I could have sworn it was coming from the moon roof or the spoiler. After just about taking the car apart and putting it back together the techs found it was an improperly connected catalytic converter shield. This was HARD to locate because it only happened when a cross wind hit the car just right and it sounded like it was coming from the top of the car not underneath.
Now a question about the software upgrade for the check engine light. After I had the update my 6s would occasionally rev very high after starting for the first time in the morning and then bottom out and even stall. Back to the dealer they couldnt recreate this, even after letting it set over night, but said that it might be due to the type of gas (premium) that I was using. Ive been using regular but still have this happen once in a while.
This has not been a BIG problem and I love driving the car, especially on long drives from GA and through WV. It loves the winding country roads!

gregc02 · July 2003

I'm up at 3:15 AM after being awakened (along with my neighborhood) by my car alarm going off for no reason for the second time in the last three days.
Has anyone had false alarms on their M6s? I've got the 6s with the perimeter upgrade on the alarm but no motion sensor. Unlocking with the remote kills the alarm but I'm going to start annoying the neighbors.

Other than that, I love the car. I've put 2000 miles on it in the last 10 days since I got it and have had no other problems. On highway trips I'm now getting 27.4 mpg @ 75 mph.

maltb · July 2003

have your dealer adjust the sensitivity on the shock sensor, or if you can find it (under the dash) you can play with the adjustment screw yourself.

vt85pgh · July 2003

Was loving this car until a rather bizarre problem occurred. Engine, brake and abs lights come on and the speedometer and odometer stop working. The dealership has been working for almost 1-1/2 weeks and still can't find the cause. They're on the phone with Mazda every day. Anyone else had this problem??

kdbl1 · July 2003

I've had my 6 in to the dealership six times for the check engine light. I love the car but this is getting old. They reprogrammed computer, changed the gas cap, recharged battery,etc.I don't think they really know what is happening. I've also noticed when the lights are turned on the light in the glove box comes on. I couldn't find a switch to turn it off. I would like to know if any other owners have this problem?

mjvchicago · July 2003

Hey vt85pgh and kdbl1, how many miles do you have on your cars?

nanda66 · July 2003

i have been having a mazda 6i for about a week now. I have a question about keyless entry. The manual says that when u press the unlock button once the lights blink twice and the driver door unlocks and when u press it twice the lights blink twice and unlocks all doors. When i press it twice it unlocks all the doors but does not blink twice.

Also in the headlight structure what is the purpose of the light next to the high beam. It seems not to light up at all. Is it the fog light? thanks

ian2 · July 2003

If I recall correctly, the fog lights are part of the sport package. Maybe that's why you never see them light up.

glideslopes · July 2003

I think there may be a misprint in the manual. I'm not sure. My 6s functions the same way with the key less entry, as well as a car I tried on the lot a few weeks ago. Probably need to look further.

Mark.

shortbuskid · July 2003

So I was supposed to bring my car in last Thursday for the head warranty guy to look at it. I was told he would be there and confirmed this a few days ahead. On thursday when I set out to drive to the dealer I called ahead and found out that he was in California and would not be back for two weeks. After letting the service guy know my displeasure and letting him know that the next time I take a day off and drive half way down there they were going to compensate me, I still have found no fix. I even told the service manager to give the warranty guy my cell number and to call me anytime as I was really starting to become displeased. P.S. has anyone tried switching bulbs for the low beams. I just cannot stand the light pattern they throw out. I can see great for 50 feet then it just stops. Who's idea was that?

mazda6s · July 2003

You need to go around the dealership and talk to the people at Mazda. Your service manager obviously doesn't know what service is, or doesn't care (or maybe both).

sry110 · July 2003

I notice an odd sound when I start reversing in my 6s (MT). After I am in motion for about a second I hear a very slight scraping sound for a split second, then it goes away. Almost like the sound when you scrape your sport package ground effects front air dam on a curb or parking block....not that I or any of you would ever do that...

jampedro · July 2003

Okay, I was wrong. I took someone's advice and you can turn off the A/C while in defog mode. It comes on automatically when you go to defog, but the A/C toggle among A/C, Eco and off still functions. I learn so much from this site. I'm pretty certain the manual makes no mention of this option.

mazda6iguy · July 2003

I just took delivery of my Mazda 6i (Sepang Green), and I want to mention a few things that are on my mind...

1.) Headlights... Does the "top" of the light halo hang a bit low on your cars? I did not know
this about these cars when I test drove them, but I think the headlights can be improved. Is there a height adjustment on these so they can shine further down the road? I don't want to have to use my brights all the time...

2.) Locking/unlocking. Why does this car not have automatic locking? Even a Ford Focus has that. Is there a setting I'm missing? I have yet to read my owners manual cover to cover. Is this a feature on the more expensive "S" model?

3.) The readout on the center console (near the amb temperature readout. I can see there are other indicators near that light (eco, a fan "scale", etc. Do they light up on the "S" model? I can only get the indicators "AC" and the recirculation symbol to light. Maybe that is the only indicators that light up with manual a/c?

4.) I seem to have a slight pull to the right when in the right lane due to slope of the road (I think). It does not happen in the left lane. Is this a common thing in the Mazda 6?

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