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BMW 3-Series 2006
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FWIW, I noticed no difference between the operation of the rain sensors on my 3-Series and my 5-Series. As far as the entire car is concerned, I think that the E90 looks better than the E60 and E65, and with its smaller size and nominally lighter weight compared to the E60, it should be a better handler.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Now, dollar-for-dollar?
Could you send me link of the aftermarket Euro tailight. Email is on my profile. Thanks!.
Sparkling Graphite
Automatic
Terra Leather
Luxury package
Xenon lights
My Car was pronounced dead today at a time of 11:25 AM EST. May its Car sole rest in peace. No one was injured in the accident the cars occupant(s) were uninjured, Air bag(s) deployed . Damage to the car included distroyed left fender light, radiator ant possible engine damage. In addition to add insult to injury the vehicles fron tire was ripped out of place during the towing process. The wheel was still attached to the suspension.
May its soul rest in peace. It surved me well for the short time we spent together. I will look for an exact match to replace you.
Forgive me for letting anything happen to you.
now...i have a question about the e90 330. I hit 1210 miles few days ago. I then did 105 and noticed something weird about the car. I felt the car kinda rumbled. Now i know i was going 105 but the max speed is like wut - 129 or so??? it was a weird feeling. I felt like the front left wheel was kinda bouncy- the floor felt stiff and was vibrating. I thought something might b wrong. Any ideas??? thanks
Bumpy roads? Tire out of balance? Not sure.
Nothing wrong with mentioning it to the mechanic; though I’m not sure where they’d test this out.
DL
DL
(I have written "significant improvment" couple of days ago).
When compared to other cars beemer is absolutely superior at higher speeds. Actully i drove Acura TL and I was a bit disappointed how that car performed at higher speed particularly when road turns.
If there is nothing wrong mechanically eg If your tyres are OK, try going up on a different road higher then 105.
My uncle used to have a Z28, and was getting a vibration at speeds around and above 100. The first Chevrolet dealer told him they couldn't test at that speed. The second told him (without driving it) that it was probably a driveshaft. Sure enough, replacing the driveshaft fixed the problem.
So, I guess it varies from dealer to dealer.
Ah. Well, i've never actually driven one, you see...
Z4 it is, then.
There should be no difference in the size and/or offset between factory wheels and the wheels that you will get from TireRack (or any other vendor that sells wheels for BMWs for that matter). I bought my winter set from TireRack and in the immortal words of Marisa Tomei, my wheels were a "dead on balls accurate... It's an industry term." fit for my BMW.
Maybe a better question would be to help you refine where your discomfort lies, so...
What issues are you hoping to avoid by buying factory wheels?
Best Regards,
Shipo
mike
Check it out. 3 days left, but there's also a "Buy in now". Not only wheels, but an extra set of all-season RFs.
I get nothing out of this. Just passing along info I stumbled across.
Generally you want winter tire to be 1 size smaller. If your car came with 16", then winter should be 15".
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I still have my take offs I have not advertised yet, But they are worth more than "moda" from tirerack..... thats my opinon and im sticking to it..
DL
My mistake.... I was thinking of ppl with 17" going down to 16".
I have a 330i with 17" all-seasons. By doing a search at tirerack.com and talking to a tirerack rep over the phone, all arrows pointed toward winter 17s. This is the first for me to hear about downsizing the winter package - getting 16s instead of 17s. Is there a consensus that it is better to go down one size? Maybe I missed that. What's the reason for downsizing? I suppose that downsizing would make my package somewhat less expensive, which would be a good thing.
Having said that, the 330i has 13.0" rotors up front and 13.2" rotors in the rear, which would leave 1.4" between the outer diameter of the rotor and the outer diameter of the wheel flange. Within that 1.4" you need to cram the diameter of the wheel flange (which contains the tire bead), the structural cross section of the wheel as well as the brake caliper. Based upon that I'm thinking that while it may not be impossible to make a 16" wheel to fit the 330i, I do consider it unlikely unless some fairly exotic materials ($$$) are used for the wheels.
Long story short, even if your 330i came with 17" wheels, you most likely cannot buy a set of 16" winter wheels that will fit.
Best Regards,
Shipo
When I turned in my 530i the inspector came out to my house to evaluate the car. One of the things that he checks is the tread depth, and of my four OEM tires, I had two at 7mm, one at 6mm and one at 5mm. The minimum depth is 4mm, meaning that if you hit that mark, you need to buy new tires before you can return the car OR your friendly neighborhood BMW dealer will buy them for you, and of course pass their own profit along to you in their final bill. In my case it seems that I put just enough miles on my winter set of tires to allow me to dodge that bullet. Funny thing, a new set of rubber for that car would have been about $850 (including shipping from TireRack, more than that if I bought them locally), plus another $100 or so for mounting and balancing. Against that $950 I have my $1,007 set of winter wheels and tires, which after three seasons (and about 12,000 miles) I can still sell for an easy $500.
The fact is that if I hadn't bought the winter set, I would certainly have had to buy a new set of tires, nearly justifying the winter set based on that alone. The fact that I now have a set that I can sell, on paper at least (until I actually sell them), I've saved $443 by buying the winter wheels and tires.
Try that one out on your wife. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
The new 330i requires 17" wheels...
regards,
kyfdx
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I am leasing my car, a standard 330i, for 3 years. I figure we'll put on about 50,000 miles. If I use a winter package for 9 months (3 winters, 3 months per year), I'll put about 37,500 miles on the all-season tires that came with the car and 12,500 miles on the winter tires. Or, perhaps I could use the winter package for 12 months (3 winters, 4 months per year), in which case I'll put about 33,000 miles on the all-season tires that came with the car and 17,000 miles on the winter tires. How many miles do you think that the original all-season tires could take before they'd have to be replaced by the 4mm rule? My wife does a lot of highway driving (perhaps 80% to 90% of the total miles would be highway miles). I'm wondering if I stand a decent chance of recouping most of my winter investment by avoiding having to purchase a second set of all-season tires before turning my car in. If it is a pay or pay later situation, I'd rather pay now and enjoy the benefits of snow tires rather than pay later for the benefit of the next owner/lessee.
The reason for smaller size is price and better contact patch.
You can always sell your winter tire/wheels when your lease ends to offset some of the cost.
Your point about pay now and enjoy more secure winter driving versus pay later, to the benefit of whoever receives your car after you is exactly my feeling in the issue.
Best Regards,
Shipo
But, I agree.. You might get away without buying another set of tires before lease end.... And, you certainly can recoup part of the cost of the extra wheels...
But, the biggest thing? Your car will be a tank on winter tires... Unless the snow is over the front spoiler or side sills, you can go anywhere you want, and with confidence... that is worth the price, right there..
regards,
kyfdx
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Thanks,