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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Here is a blatant plug.

    Duly noted! :)

    tidester, host
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    I'll keep you updated...today they should give me an answer...I hope...

    I pre owned a Liberty 2.8 CRD (previous model without VGT) and the engine has never overheated.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    It could come from a batch of defective head gaskets (material or tolerance). With a gasser when the mixture is too lean then you get overheating, with the diesel you just get less power. If there is a crack in the head or between cylinders load+time play a role. By turning on the cabin heater this simulates additional cooling.
    Another idea: my CRD doesn't have any engine protection plate underneath and ventilates well. I remember the days in the 70's when low profile tires apperared on the market and I had a 2.8L V6 Ford Capri racer. The front spoiler had to be removed to avoid vapour lock in the fuel line. There wasn't enough ventilation from underneath the body. Could this be the case with the newer CRD?
  • molokaimolokai Member Posts: 313
    Gary.. I'd choose the Xterra because of the faster get up and go. The Liberty CRD is WAY too slow for city driving. I'd also choose the Nissan because their reliability is better. Too bad gas is over 2.40 a gallon now. I guess I'll keep borrowing the inlaws GC when I need it (not too often luckily).
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    faster get up and go

    I am not looking for a street racer. I want a vehicle I can take out in the desert during the winter and explore. That involves many dry creek beds and climbing a hill now and then. Is the Xterra built on a truck frame or is it a car based vehicle? The Xterra also does not have the mileage rating of the Jeep CRD. Actually the Xterra is pretty bad for a V6 engine 16/21 MPG, lowest in it's class. I think I will wait till DC puts a diesel in the Wrangler.
  • kappy44kappy44 Member Posts: 20
    I have not tested the new fan clutch for several weeks, but after it was installed I did and as I mentioned in an earlier post the temp gauge rose and then fell within seconds as the clutch kicked in....I will give another test this weekend.....I fear that many who think they don't have the problem do not know how to test for it accurately and as I suspected and posted this problem is getting more pronounced as the summer progresses....I strongly believe that a collective effort here by those who have encountered the problem should be directed at the appropriate Chrysler folks and not the dealers....if we can find out who that is we should direct copies of the posts on here, our vehicle VIN'S, and locations.....it appears that a recall or a service bulletin needs to be issued, but we have to force Chrysler to recognize the problem and figure out a fix....I suspect they know they have a problem already and they are up against a major design flaw....let's all try to get to the right people!
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I just got through speaking to the diesel mechanic at the dealer a little while ago. I presented the overheating issue to him, including the fixes that have been attempted and failed and all the situations that cause the overheating from towing to playing around in sand dunes.

    His response was that the radiator was the most likely source of the problem. He suggested having the cooling system drained and thoroughly flushed. He thinks that there could be material left over from the engine manufacturing process that could be clogging the radiator. He found it interesting that this was happening to some but not others. :)
  • molokaimolokai Member Posts: 313
    They may do that next year from what I read. I just want something that can get out of its way. 0-60 in over 12 seconds is kinda slow these days. I still am gonna test drive it and may consider it when it has skid control in '06. Plus, I want them to get the bugs out it. Been reading way too many problems here. My '02 never had those types of problems (it was a gasser of course).
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The CRD too slow for city driving? I have found the CRD to be more than up to the task of dealing with city traffic, whether it is rush hour or not. I also have no trouble merging onto a busy highway and I do not need to mash the accelerator when merging.

    My niece and her spouse have a new Xterra. It has been to the shop several times and the fuel economy is rotten. The overall usage is about 15 mpg.
  • vtdogvtdog Member Posts: 163
    I traded a '00 XTERRA for my CRD. In 5 years and 75k miles I NEVER got better than 17.5mpg and many times below 14. However, the XT was very reliable and other than a small brake problem I had no repairs beyond normal maint. I was able to take it anywhere any vehicle could go and would rate it as more "rugged" than my jeep.

    I traded the XT because of a job change which requires a 100mi round trip commute, but would not hesitate to recommend it to anyone if mpg is not important. My CRD is my first "domestic" car in many many years and (so far at least) I have had no problems and am very happy with it. I just had the 6k service and the dealer checked for me that all TSB were up to date. I have not had the overheat problem, but have seen the temp gauge (once) rise to the 3/4 mark before falling back to just below the 1/2.
  • molokaimolokai Member Posts: 313
    Just because one person brings their car to the shop it is not represenative as a whole. I am pretty certain that the Xterra is overall MORE reliable than the Jeep. I've driven both and I prefer the Jeep. The Xterra has MUCH more horsepower this year and can go to 0-60 in a little over 7 seconds. That's important to me when merging and so forth. I am sure the Jeep will do fine, but I'll wait until 06. I
  • silverminersilverminer Member Posts: 15
    Molokai writes "The Liberty CRD is WAY too slow for city driving."

    Surely you jest?! I gotta think you're just saying that to get a rise out of us CRD owners. Funny, I guess.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    What I find funny is that CR had a 0 - 60 time of 12 seconds. I found several road tests from Motor Trend, Motor Week and a few others with 0 - 60 times of 9.5 - 10. 1 seconds.

    It is obvious to me that CR has a problem.
  • moparbadmoparbad Member Posts: 3,870
    0-60 in less than 10 seconds and 1 second quicker than V6 gas Liberty.
    CRD is more than adequate power and acceleration.
    review
  • rborgersrborgers Member Posts: 6
    I traded a 03 Xterra in on a CRD. I never got better than 18 mpg usually getting 14 to 15 mpg in the city out of the Xterra. The xterra was very dependable and seemed to do pretty good the one time I took it off road. The Liberty’s ride is much smoother and quieter, and I am now getting 22 to 23 mpg in town. The Liberty also has the choice of part time or full time 4 wheel drive.
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    I agree with you..our problem has to be fixed by chrysler, I think this design flaw is far too much for a simple dealer...what I find intolerable is that Liberty is supposed to be an off road vehicle and this overheating problem is ridiculous. As I said before, in the previous model of the 2.8 crd there were no overheating issues; I suspect that this problem is mainly due to the effort of reducing engine noises: chrysler has added many acoustic insulating materials.

    I'll wait the end of this week, if the problem isn't solved I'll write to Chrysler Italy.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Here is one more way to diagnose the cause of overheating if you have the mechanical fan:
    -When the engine overheats, stop the truck and keep the engine running at 2000 rpm. The temperature should go down when the air flows rapidly through the radiator and no load is put on the engine. If this works out well it means the cooling fluid flows sufficiently and the radiator could be clogged or designed just at the limit for the additional power given by the engine in the 2005 version. I haven't found any post about people complaining of this type of issue with older CRD engines in Europe.
    When older (underpowered) Peugeot diesel engines were first fitted with turbochargers, I remember sharing the same issue: the head gasket would blow :lemon:
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Do you have the mechanical fan?
    Do you have the bottom protection under the engine?
    Have you tried 'BluDiesel' from Agip stations?
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    This is exactly what happens to my jeep...If I stop the truck in a few seconds the engine returns to its normal temperature...
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    Yes I've the mechanical fan
    If the bottom protecion is an extra I think no
    I' haven't tried with BluDiesel..
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    When you say you stop the truck, do you keep the engine running?
    So you do have the large protection plate under the motor, right?
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    Yes I keep the motor running

    At the moment I' don't remember If there's a large plate under the motor...I Think no.

    Why BluDiesel?
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    BluDiesel is your new sulfer free fuel. I tried it in Sicily this spring...
    When you overheat, are you using the LO mode or just pulling on the HI range?
    Where were you doing this? Where you in altitude?
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    Im' not using LO mode I use two Wheels Drive...

    I overheat during hill climb (not a serious climb, no off road), 600 meters above sea level. No Problem on Highway and in city traffic.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    At what speed does this happen?
    What's your engine rpm when you overheat?
    Do you have additional accessories in front of your Jeep?
    Could you check if you have the engine plate underneath?
    Are you alone in the truck or do you have cargo?
    I'm asking you these questions because I would like to further equip mine. Perhaps I shouldn't ....
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    Speed is not costant ...there are bends ...40 km/h - 70 km/h

    Same thing for engine rpm

    No additional accessories

    My car is at Chrysler dealer, I can't Check the plate

    I'm alone in the truck with no cargo (with cargo and passengers it's worse)
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    As I can see, you are in 3rd gear with the torque converter locked or with a manual it would come to the same. You range from ~1600 to ~2400 rpm and already have enough speed to force the air into the radiator. If your truck is not suffocating from an engine plate that doesn't allow extracted heat to get out, the radiator seems too small (off my nose). I'm a bit worried that the engine plate (at least the model I've seen) carries the heat all the way to the firewall and re-heats the engine instead of escaping from the front.
    For your information, I put my CRD to test in LO mode close to idle speed and full cargo. No speed and deep in the woods (no breeze). I tried to stop and go several times in very soft terrain at 40% incline (22 degrees). It never ever overheated, could not go beyond 2000 rpm but I was swetting that day!
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    I hope I'll get an answer this week from chrysler...
    Thank you for the help
  • w6373w6373 Member Posts: 6
    Yesterday, my dealer thinking the cooling problem was a fan clutch bolted one together so the engine fan would run wheneven the engine was running. On grades the engine still overheated. It just happened the Chrysler rep for the western U.S. was there to observe the test. He had not heard anything relating to the overheating problem. As of last night Chrysler does not know how to stop the overheating. This is after they have installed 2 new fan clutches on my vehicle.
  • kappy44kappy44 Member Posts: 20
    This is precisely what I have been trying to point out since I first posted this problem on this forum.....can the Chrysler rep read?......either direct him to this forum or print out all the reports of this problem....we need to work together on getting Chrysler to admit they have an issue and resolve it.
  • ddcrdjeepddcrdjeep Member Posts: 1
    I just experienced the same thing. The Jeep didn't start like it normally does, 2 miles down the road it started bucking & loosing power. As soon as it slowed enough to downshift, the bucking stopped. As I got to town & stopped at a stop sign, the jeep could hardly muster enough power to leave the intersection. After finally making it home and turning it off, I called my dealer to come get it. I went back outside, restarted it, & it has ran fine ever since. After reading the solution to your problem, I passed the info on to my dealer so they can correct the problem.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The B100 station is up in Westminster at the intersection of Rte 27 and Rte 26. As best as I am able to remember it is a Shell station.

    The B100 pump is by itself. Add the amount of B100 you want, then finish filling at the regular diesel pump.

    For the Liberty, each gallon of B100 equals 5%, thus adding 2 gallons of B100 and then filling to the top would give you a B10 blend.

    I have discovered that when I run 45 cetane fuel, the engine starts faster and runs quieter than if I were to use 40 cetane fuel. I add cetane improvers so I run at about 50 cetane. I have almost no vibration at idle, even when cold. :)
  • crdme13crdme13 Member Posts: 1
    go home....diesels are the best Jeep or otherwise.
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Welcome to Edmunds, Crdme. You may want to reply to more recent posts - that one is a couple of years old! I take it you drive one?

    Steve, Host
  • aztorkaztork Member Posts: 4
    I have a CRD that overheats as well. The front engine skid plate is off, the front driveshaft and axles were disconnected so it was effectively a 2WD and it still overheated. It happened first on a drive with a long steady climb. Now, it overheats when driving in traffic. Granted, it may have done it before and I just never noticed, but I notice it alot now. My dealership gave me a new brake booster thinking that there was slight drag from the brakes causing the issue. Still overheats so we know it is not the brakes or the fan clutch. It hasn't become an issue yet but a coupla more times getting passed by everyone on the interstate while I'm doing 50mph to cool off and I'm gonna start getting pissed. I hope they find an answer quick.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Could you ask your Chrysler rep to try a 150HP engine controller instead of the one you have? This one is under rated but at least known for not overheating the earlier versions. If it solves the problem, then fit the engine skid plate to see if there is a difference. The newer engine controller is said to give 10% more torque, and this should induce 20-30% more heat since the efficiency of the combustion is around 33%, the rest is heat.
  • w6373w6373 Member Posts: 6
    I have passed on this web site to Chrysler. My dealer wanted to swap me vehicles, but the one I took for a test drive overheated too. The dealer is using their vehicle as a test vehicle to try different things on. When I talked to the service manager yesterday, he told me the Star team at Chrysler is working on the problem, but they do not know what it is. He said they are thinking may it has something to do with not having a separate transmission cooler. Transmission tempurature for normal operation is 242 degrees. Normal operating tempurature of the engine should be 200 degrees. The dealers vehicle I test drove got up to 260 degrees.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I have the separate transmission cooler fixed in front of the radiator on my truck. If it would get that hot it would also transfer heat into the engine radiator by the air flowing through, and it doesn't. Once the converter is locked there is much less heat to extract from the transmission. Some of you are experiencing overheating going uphill (pure engine load), others in the city traffic (engine+transmission). The engine temperature should come down using the cabin heater+fan set to "4" with all windows open. If it still doesn't ask for a 2003 model, they're just great :shades:
  • 4kster4kster Member Posts: 49
    Hi, Caribou1

    My CRD has engine covers top and bottom - no transmission cooler - and it doesn’t overheat. I put it to the test by towing a little above the maximum gross total weight allowed for vehicle and trailer @ 90+ degrees and the temperature gauge never moved from the middle.

    There has to be something going on other than basic design.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Good Morning,

    Unfortunately, we cannot get the 2003 model here in the U.S.

    What is so crazy about this problem is that it affects some CRD owners, but not others. Recently, I attempted to get my CRD to overheat by keeping it in 5th and lugging it up a hill at 53 mph with the A/C on in 95+ degree heat. I did this three or four times and the temperature gauge simply did not move past it's usual spot, a touch below the half way point.

    When I spoke to the diesel mechanic at the dealer a few days ago, he told me that there is a transmission overheating issue with the gas version of the Liberty that has the four-speed automatic. They attribute this to the fact that the transmission cooler is too small (not enough surface area). I did discuss the CRD overheating issue with him told him about what other people were experiencing, and had done, the failures, etc. His feeling is that it is an issue with the radiator. In an earlier message, I suggested having the cooling system thoroughly flushed to make sure there is no junk left over from the engine manufacturing process clogging the radiator. I would even suggest pulling the radiator and having a flow test done to make sure it is up to spec. The other possibility is that the radiator might for the smaller diesel used in Europe.

    I feel for those of you who are having this problem. I hope that it is resolved soon and that it is something easy and simple. :D
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi 4kster,
    There has been a bit of evolution between my truck and the one I could buy today:
    -I bought mine in sept. 2003 with 150 HP and mechanical fan, no skid plates. If I remember well I have 4 heat exchangers up front: A/C, transmission, engine and intercooler. You can't add anything more, the place is stuffed.
    -In 2004 the 163 HP were announced and 150 HP were delivered.
    -Today in 2005 it's 163 HP, the fan and radiators changed and you get plates.

    My service technician (a real good one compared to many) told me the 163 HP engines all have the electrical fan. Radiator and fan mounts are different.
    How come some folks in the US talk about belt driven fans with clutches ? Are these trucks in-betweens? He even told me a few 2.5L CRDs were produced with the automatic transmission while owners thought they had the 2.8L. I have the impression DC can build trucks like a restaurant serves week-end left-overs for the monday special! Mine must have been built a thursday :blush:
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi winter2,
    It would be nice to summarize what type of fan + radiator(s) are involved when trucks overheat, assuming skid plates make no choking effect on the expelled air. It's a bit confusing that climbing and city driving make the same effect.
  • 4kster4kster Member Posts: 49
    Caribou1 and Winter2

    My CRD that does not overheat has a belt driven clutch mounted fan and a
    2-speed electric fan.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    My CRD is like yours, belt driven clutch fan and an electric fan.

    Caribou1, I am trying to make sure that my CRD is not part of the group that has the overheating issue. I have the engine plate underneath but when I am parked and the A/C is on, the electric fan is running at high speed and a fair amount of heat comes off the engine. The temperature gauge is always slightly below the half way point.
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    I have belt driven clutch fan and an electric fan.

    I'm part of the overheating group, in city traffic no problem...but during climbing the gauge reaches the red zone.

    today at Chrysler they changed the thermostat (electric fan activator????) and tomorrow I'll take my truck to some serious tests. I'll let you know....At the moment I think they haven't solved the problem...while there is life there is hope...
  • scotstdiscotstdi Member Posts: 1
    I have been following the posts on this topic. I think the common thread in all of these overheating issues may be the thermostat. Some thermostats may be correctly installed and the cooling system can handle the city traffic and off-road or towing on hills. If the thermostat is not correctly installed, the thermostat may be opening partially, allowing the cooling system to function in lighter use instances. But when the cooling system is stressed, not enough coolant can make it past the partially open thermostat, causing over-heating. My 2 cents.

    I don't own a CRD yet, but plan to in the future. I am lurking here to see the problems that unfold and how they are solved.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    From what I read here you all have the two fans. One fan has 2 fixed speeds (electric), the other has variable speed (belt driven one).
    Imagine connecting 2 different pumps on a pipe and flow water or gas through the assembly.
    [pump1]---[pipe]---[pump2]
    If pump1 has more flow than pump2, the flow is limited by pump2 and both pumps cavitate. The pressure in the pipe can rise.
    In the case where #2 has the greater flow, cavitation occurs in the pipe and the flow is restricted.
    In the case where both pumps have the same flow, you don't feel either #1 or #2.
    What I'm trying to explain is that two non synchronised pumps cannot be used on a single circuit unless they reach equilibrium by some external means, like driving at 50 MPH per example...
    For an engineer, defining a radiator is trivial, but getting it to work in a variable environment needs a bit of thinking. If an overheating truck can cool down while running at 50 MPH, this means the radiator has a safety margin and is well dimensionned.
    Any contradictors? :P
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Caribou1,

    Interesting! The belt driven fan has a clutch that is temperature activated. If the cooling system and especially the radiator is working properly, then when the temperature of the air coming off the radiator is hot enough, the clutch in the fan will engage. If there is not enough fluid flow through the radiator, the clutch fan will never engage. Clutch fans rarely ever fail. Having the electric fan in place and running at a different speed is in my view not contributing to the problem.

    So what are we left with?

    1. A bad sensor to activate said electric fan.
    2. Bad software that keeps something from working as it should.
    3. Bad thermostat, very possible. One that has been put in improperly, not likely. If that were the case, the engine would overheat under any condition.
    4. A restriction somewhere in the cooling system. That could be in the block, the head, radiator, a bad valve somewhere in the cooling system, a kinked line that is not readily visible.
    5. Since the engine has an iron block, an aluminum head, and an aluminum radiator this could be a problem. Aluminum and iron do not like each other and will react. This sounds far fetched but it is possible.
    6. A hot transmission. Since the radiator and trans cooler share the same coolant, there may not be enough cooling capacity. Has anyone had a transmission overheat light come on?
    7. What about a blockage between the radiator and the intercooler or A/C condenser?

    Any other thoughts are welcome. ;)
  • jimi7jimi7 Member Posts: 17
    I've been following this since I was thinking of getting a CRD - of course now I will hold off on that purchase until Jeep resolves this issue. Seems to me the clutch fan or temp switches aren't the problem. At ~30mph the fans are useless anyway. From what I've read, people are overheating while the at or above this speed (correct me if I'm wrong). So that leaves defective thermostates, blockage, inadequate or defective water pumps or an inadequate radiator, possibly some sort of problem with a lack of airflow. Perhaps heat generated by the turbo or tranny is a contributing factor. Since it's a intermittant problem I'd say that eliminates lack of airflow, inadequate radiators and inadequate water pumps, unless there is evidence that this happens under high loads only under high loads or in hot climates/weather.

    This definately makes me glad I got my Cherokee at the end of it's run ('99), when they had all the bugs worked out.

    Good luck to those experincing overheating issues. Jeep better get this figured out because a properly working CRD is the only way they're getting any money out of me. ;)
  • colocrdcolocrd Member Posts: 6
    Anyone know who to contact above the dealer level about this overheating mess? Lots of good posts here but its obvious most of the dealers don't have a clue about this. 3 trips to the dealer and I'm more than ready to have this cured. We need phone numbers, email addresses, something... Any help is appreciated!
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