I found a problem that can spell trouble for us in the future. My brother's wife has the same problem on his VW TDI. This was a posting from another website and the picture is from a TDI Club website. Read and weep.
It's intake manifold and EGR / intercooler fouling and it's a common problem on diesels with closed crankcase ventilation (CCV) that employs sucking the crankcase vapors out of the valve cover into the turbo and through the intercooler and the EGR valve into the intake manifold. The design is intended to burn those crankcase vapors and thus significantly hold down emissions. Bad thing is you will eventually get oil vapor buildup in your intercooler. What really gets bad is when the oily crankcase vapors make contact with the recirculating exhaust gases in the EGR valve and then a buildup of oily soot begins in the EGR valve and on into the intake manifold. Diesels' dirty little secret.
One solution is to dismantle your intake/intercooler/EGR/intake manifold and clean this oily mess out about every 60,000 miles. I'm doing that right now with a VW TDI that had the EGR and intake manifold partially obstructed to the point it was affecting performance.
Another solution is to install a CCV filter or trap between the discharge from the crankcase and the inlet to the suction side of the turbo. That way you can trap the oil from getting into your intake but still burn those crankcase vapors. There is some cheap home garage designs out there and a few commercial engineered ones. I'm looking to get a ProVent or Racor on my Libby as soon as I can. Do an internet search on CCV filters or pcv catchcans and see what I mean.
You guys this isn't a joke. Here is a link to go see the picture. Please go and see!! Thanks! BIGPAPA">
Our Liberty left on a flatbed Friday afternoon also. I was really hoping the problem would be something easy to find like a faulty power booster. There was no free play on the brake pedal and no amount of playing around with the pedal or the gearshift released the brakes. The engine had to be off to release the brakes.
Unfortunately, it’s 70 degrees here today so the dealer may not be able to replicate the problem unless they tested it yesterday when the temperature was over 100 degrees. We are waiting for the dreaded we can’t get it to do it phone call.
I picked up my Liberty last night with nothing being done on it. I still have a "heat - sensitive" vehicle that is useless in temperatures over 90 degrees! I did learn (on my own) that the brakes start setting to a lesser degree at temperatures that are in the 80's - which makes sense. The hotter it gets, the harder the brakes set. The service dept. was totally insensitive to my problem - basically "Chrysler has not heard of the problem - so it doesn't exist" - and to top it off, they have not tried to report my problem to them. I am going to a different dealership today. Just like what you said though, the temperature is going to be only in the 70's and low 80's for the next few days - afraid they won't come up with anything either.
I just read a few french threads about brakes that remain blocked until the engine is turned off. It seems the 'Hydro-Vac' or brake servo (booster) can clamp the braking circuit when the vacuum release valve gets clogged. One side of the large diaphragm is put under engine vacuum to provide assistance when the brake pedal is pressed. Either a driver's foot stays on the pedal or the vacuum release is defective. In both cases accidental pressure is applied to the pads. I haven't checked if we have a pressure or vacuum system but in either case there is a release valve.
"Either a driver's foot stays on the pedal or the vacuum release is defective." I agree that the vacuum booster is to assist in the mechanical operation of the foot pedal. I believe a spring is what returns the foot pedal to the uppermost range of travel. The brake booster holds around enough vacuum for 4-5 pumps of the foot pedal after shut down, just like a gasser using manifold vacuum. The only difference is the source of the vacuum. It looks like vacuum comes from the pump, goes to the check valve on the booster which has a second line out with a hose, with a check valve in it, to the VGT vacuum reservoir.
If the abs? line is not pinched in the spring causing something, I can only think of three other things to help spete.
If the front end vibrates at speed, could out of round rotors be heating up the fluid? On my previa the bad hoses and action on the rotors actually melted the pads and produced a ridge on the edge of the pad surface.
You used the word servo. Another thing I can think of is an abs issue that is not posting an error code. Is hot fluid the cause of locking brakes or a result of hanging pads? Disconnect the abs and drive around?
Is the master cylinder at fault? (bad caliper/pistons in both fronts would seem odd) Check it and flush all the old fluid from the system. Our '92 previa was one of those that got contaminated freon. Toyota solution-a can of neutralizing oil. And years later the system sprung holes everywhere. Last toyota.
What happens if the brake booster doesn't have the freedom of movement, in other words if it cannot come back freely? There were a few posts about the gas pedal not well fixed, could the brake pedal be involved or too tightly fit in the firewall material? I tried removing the ABS fuse on a GM and got nowhere. ABS will come into action only briefly when needed.
I've never disconnected ABS. It might be as simple as disconnecting the Bosch labeled harness beside the solenoid array. I'm sure someone here can help.
If turning the ignition off and on frees the brakes, then it seems it is an electrical issue. The only electrical parts to my knowledge in a brake system, other than the mechanical brake light switch on the pedal, and a low brake fluid level sensor, are solenoids in the abs system.
I don't think the mechanical vacuum booster can be the problem. But spete didn't expound on the"pedal had no play" fully extended? engaged at somepoint towards the floor? Up and held up by not only the spring but also by vacuum/hydraulics?
Another issue, why didn't the brakes exhibit this problem from the start? I hate to keep using my old problems as the source of my posts, but.
Our '96 ford e-150 conversion van had 4 wheel abs which was a surprise to some ford "mechanics" (this is another 6 dealers, one replacing calipers another screwed up etc but we found our own answer to the problem story)
Some time after owning it, on startup up we would hear a "weeeeee". My wife and I, after dealers go duh, found the problem. With engine cover removed, we pinpointed the problem noise as coming from the abs unit. I went to as yet again another dealer and asked to be written up and pay for, warranty is no good if they are idiots, a complete brake flush/bleed. You could not bleed the abs unit without a tool that does the abs electronically through the obd connector. (The manual bleeding only works at the wheels and master cylinder.) The tool opens and closes the solenoids. I found the tool's manufacturer and got a k's of dollars quote.
Weeeee now gone. I'm assuming that sometime after we bought the van the abs was activated-goodyear wranglers, couldn't go or stop in the rain. This alllowed air trapped somewhere to move into an abs position to make the noise, Stopping issue-who knows couldn't get wet traction with the wranglers anyway.
Today my chrysler dealer called me saying the overheating problem was solved... I got my car back home and tested it above a climb...and surprise! no overheating!!! He told me they have changed the fan clutch. I was happy until I opened the cowling and........THEY HAVE REMOVED THE ENGINE PLASTIC COVER. I fear that doing so they have only eluded the problem, it seem to me that this trick has only improved a little the heat dissipation.
Will they remove my wheels if I'll ever have a problem with them?
I put my engine cover back on based on Tony's smoke machine. I did notice that on slow and fast speeds on the electric fan while in the garage on cool down, that the air seemed to set on top of the motor. Stop and go driving in this heat, without the cover, didn't seem to make a difference. No heat issue.
I believe anomious told us the VGT parts are inside the exhaust flow and wondered how they were lubricated(thin oil and additives?).
The talk here about HD 5w40 oil, the only difference I believe is the base thinness. There are molecules that respond to heat and produce an oil with properties of 40w. Does Jeep use 0w40 Mobil1 for it's thinness and possibly less deposits in the "...egr and other exhaust issues"?
Does the electric egr work better than VW? Is the CCV necessary (does this filter reduce oil vapors to the VGT?)or should we be like be like TDI's, join clubs and share laptops?
Your cover is probably laying on the second shelf of the mechanics work bench - just forgot to put it back on. It is probably an expensive little piece. Just go back and get it.
If they took it off on purpose tell them you want it back for use in the winter time when it's hard to warm up a diesel.
The normal airflow under a hood is back and downward - you would have to remove the entire hood to make much difference.
P.S. Make sure all of the rubber parts are there. The little knobs that the cover sits on can hang on to the rubber parts pretty good. A little grease or vaseline on the knobs helps a lot for future removal.
I assume for fan clutch, we are talking about the two speed electric fan? This sounds reasonable. Hot days, around town with a/c on, pulling into the garage for the turbo cool down, the high speed would kick in before the guage moved. then would fall to slow speed, then the electric fan would stop.
There seems to have been a smoke test done showing better air flow with the cover on. You might want to retrieve your engine cover. It could have been a careless mistake or a desire for a great office decoration.
I checked the travel of my brake pedal. I have 1" soft travel before it stiffens and the brakes start to clamp. If someone has self locking brakes there should be no soft travel noticeable on the pedal if the vacuum is not released. When the ABS comes into action, you hear it and it should display a warning light on the console. It also changes the stiffness of the brake pedal by pulsing it. Those who had locked brakes would have noticed this. As of the mechanical fan clutch, I had mine replaced because of excessive play on the propeller shaft bearing. It would really be a nightmare if trucks had both problems at the same time, ie brakes and fan clutch. The plastic cover is only an accoustical device that does not restric airflow since it stands in the middle of a 'dead' zone when the hood is closed and it has clearance above the engine and under the hood.
When the diesel Liberty was introduced in Europe, the quality assurance argument was put forward to emphasize DC's will to succeed. I hope they havent forgotten the newer version that was said to have more 'this and that'!
Reading your reply I noticed that you mentioned the front end vibrating at speed - yes mine does. It is almost like the front wheels are badly out of balance. Funny thing is that the "shaking steering wheel" quits shaking after I have slowed down and have gone a few miles. I told the dealer about this - and that I thought that because the brakes had overheated so many times, that maybe the front rotors where getting badly warped. I am also interested in what you say about the ABS - a local mechanic had mentioned that to me - but I have never passed it along to the Jeep mechanic. I get the impression that he does not like to get input from a "commoner" like me - so telling him what I believe may be the problem has been falling on deaf ears. I am taking it to a different dealer today so maybe they will agree to listen to what I have learned from all of you on this site. Thanks for the input and I will let you know how this next attempt to solve goes - spete
Sorry, but most customers who earned their money going to work every day are "commoners". If your Jeep mechanics doesn't pay much attention to his clients he has a chance to go out of business before you buy your next vehicle. Reputation takes a long time to establish and can be lost instantly even with donuts and coffee. My local Jeep rep should recognize himself here :P
I managed to retreive my engine cover...as you said they just forgot to put it back on. I've tested my liberty in city traffic with an external temperature of 39 celsius and no overheating issue.
This Liberty CRD is my first Chrysler product - out of over 35 vehicles that I have owned - so I have not been "educated" in how Chrysler does business. You seem to have a lot of knowledge with Jeeps and so I assume you have had to deal with them in the past. Can I demand to talk to a Chrysler / Jeep Representative - and will they honor this request? I realize that I may be the only one that has this specific problem - but somebody has to listen to me sooner or later. Just because it only seems to happen when the weather is really hot should not make it a problem that can not be analyzed. Problem is - even if I can get my Liberty to the dealer while it is "acting up" - by the time they get around to looking for the problem, the vehicle will be cooled off and then they are back to ground zero again - they don't know what they are looking for. - Still have not heard back from dealer number 2 - so will have to wait until next week to report anything. I would like to learn a little more about Chrysler's Rep system though - can''t seem to find anything on their web site. - spete
I must have missed you postings - do I get the feeling that you are experincing the same proble I am having" The brakes "dragging" and then causing the engine to heat up? Mine drag so bad in hot weather that the vehicle becomes undrivable - please let me know if your dealer finds a solution. spete
Yup, it appears to be the same problem. I heard from the dealer late yesterday. I’m getting the same nonsense - “Your must understand that we can’t make it happen so we cannot work on a problem that doesn’t exist.”
I’m going to pick it up this afternoon. Unfortunately I’m leaving on vacation for a week so I won’t be able to get back to the problem or respond to posts until week after next. Good luck.
Interesting, so there appears to be two problems - bad fan clutches and dragging brakes. And it appears a bunch of posters on edmunds have gotten much further than Jeep has on figuring this out, which is pretty pathetic. Has anybody tried looking at the routing of brakelines to see where they might be susceptible to heat? It wouldn't be difficult for a backyard mechanic to fab up some sort of heat shield and see if that cures the problem. Of course it would be better if an actual Jeep Dealership mechanic did this and let the owners report back the results. Jeep appears to be dropping the ball on this one.
Here is how I got to the right people: 1- I wrote to VM motori, not to Chrysler. 2- VM relayed me first to the swiss national "Technical Inspector" by mistake who contacted the french one immediately. He was never very 'willing', but told my local rep I had a problem. 3- My local rep just gave a 5 minutes look. He was wearing very nice clothes and everyone could understand he would not get dirty, his mission was to sell the Grand Cherokee or the new 300. Primitively spirited customers would like to look as good as this man assosciated to the wealth mirrored by the fancy car. To any engineering question he answered by waving his hand. Useless... I decided to let it get worse to the point of leaving the truck along the road if necessary. (sell it to the insurance) After one year I went 30 miles from home to another dealer, in fact where I bought it, and there stood a real chief mechanics. We test drove the truck 45 minutes together and finally eliminated all possible issues. I've been here for 36 years now and he's the second person with such skills I've ever met including racetrack fanatics. He told me I was a customer hard to please but he let me assist and told me everything about the service and what to look for in case of problems. I can attest this truck is very nicely built and straightforward for those of you who are willing to get underneath it. I bought him a few bottles of champagne and my family will buy other vehicles there as long as he's around. Tough life for our local top models :shades:
Funny you should mention this story. When I received my Liberty in May, the dealer put it on the lift and had their diesel technician go over the fine points of maintaining my CRD. This dealer is unique in that they offer direct contact with their technicians. The service writers also have good training and will ride with the customer so they can see the problem first hand. Sometimes the mechanics will go along to witness the problem too.
I guess I got lucky as to which dealer I purchased from.
My CRD is going to the dealer on Monday to have the brakes checked. The alloy wheels seem to get much hotter than those on my old Dodge Dakota. I am concerned that the calipers are not fully letting go when I take my foot off the brake pedal. I still get an occasional sticking or binding sensation when I release the brake pedal. Temperature is not relevant nor is the type of driving. I will let you know what they find, if anything.
HOST: Can we indeed recognize good dealers? Can we also report on unsatisfactory experiences?
Maybe that will get some people's attention at Jeep. I was considering a CRD, but they certainly need to get this resolved instead of giving people the run around and being too lazy think beyond computer codes.
What an experience. Who's your dealer? I begged the general manager to let the two diesel trained mechanics drive and check our CRD out. It seems that months earlier the mechanics went to CRD school but never drove one. It seems I got the make ready of fluid top off. And maybe a paint treatment was done.
I found and quizzed the two mechanics in the shop area about the CRD on the day we saw it on the show room floor, took a test drive and bought it. I knew nothing about the CRD, I was there to enter a contest. The older mechanic asked if I really wanted to be a first year buyer. The younger mechanic said go for it. They were both right. We are experiencing some issues (suppliers/assembly line) and the CRD is great.
My check engine light is on all the time. The dealer woked on it for 2 hours, said there was a service bulletin on it and re-set it. ! mile down the road it came back on, now they are going to try again. In the meantime it runs good and is not giving any adverse symptoms. Has anyone else experienced this?
I had my CRD in for a stutter that would show up after the torque converter locked up. It took a week but they went through it and found the problem. I had several conversations with the service manager and the service tech about what they were doing and finding. In the overall, I am quite happy with the service department. It still has a slight fade off the line with a cold engine. Has anyone had this problem and what did they do about it?
Anyone have experience with NHTSA and how to get a response? Seems like we’re long past frustration and well into safety issues now. I had to complain to Chrysler just to get my dealer to go on a test drive and yes, it overheated. Said they would research called back a week later and was told to pull over and let it cool if it happened again???
My SW Colorado dealer is: Being given one more week due to the courtesy of the tech that went on the test drive with me; then it’s the “wall of shame” for this outfit followed by a “Five-Star” complaint.
mdamick: I have the slight fade too but at this point, it’s a bit low on my list. Good luck!
No check-engine light but just about everything else mentioned here.
There is one quick check you can do if you have a 'helper': -Remove one of the front wheels and while the engine is stopped give a bit of play to the brake pads like if you wanted to remove them. -Turn the engine on, the pads should stay where they had been left. -Ask someone to apply the brakes while you observe the pads moving in. Leave the engine running. If there is a vacuum booster malfunction you will not be able to open the pads. If this is the case turn the engine off and wait a few seconds before you do the check again. Be shure to have the transmission dis-engaged and don't ask a child for help :mad:
After reading many posting about engine overheating I printed them and took them to my dealership. After talking with the mechanic he removed the engine shroud, put on a glove held the fan and had me start the engine.The engine temp guage was in the normal (half way) range. He said the clutch fan was set way to hi from the factory and he put one on order. This is the same problem another CRD owner had that was in Phoenix. We shall see if this solves the overheat problem.
Greetings everyone,I have had my new CRD for about 3 weeks now and it is all that I expected.Ordered it last October and it didn't get built until June.I just joined the group and am really pleased at the expertise and tone of the posts.Having said that,here is probably the most mundane questions ever to appear here:1 Is there a Fram or other oil filter available for the Liberty CRD 2.8 My Canadian dealer charged me $17 for the Chrysler filter.2.What tool do I use to remove the oil drain plug?The same dealer told me a 19 mm wrench or in some cases a special tool available from Chrysler.Now I am not the brightest spark in the fire,but a special tool to remove the drain plug? And no,I haven't filled it up with unleaded yet ">
Hello to all: This is my FIRST posting in here and I hope that i can be of some help. Have owned the diesel since 6-11-0-5. NOTHING but praise for it. After endeless searches, I have FINALLY found aftermarket oil filters for it. Here are the numbers: PUROLATOR PL25230 L25230 FRAM PH8316 NAPA 1315 Hope this helps someone out!
Wow!! I posted my first message #1324 Got an answer in less than an hour.My dealer doesn't respond that fast.Even the Fram site doesn't list their filter equivalent # Thanks again. :surprise:
The plug is an 8mm Allen. I needed a vise-grip to get it loose the first time. As of 3 weeks ago there was no aftermarket fuel filter & jeep wants $40 for a Mopar. The NAPA oil filter works just fine.
Thank you very much for the info on the 8mm Allen.I know I can get that at my local hardware outlet Chrysler probably sells one as well, made out of a special alloy for CRD's. Mopar part# $$$$23$$$87$$$
I just had the same problem with my CRD overheating while towing my pop-up camper in stop-and-go slightly uphill traffic. Near max overheat and smelled hot on three occasions. Took it to the dealer and got the same story and was shown the text that describes what to do when it overheats. I'm not happy and the service tech agrees it "should not do that". He advised me to check back in a few weeks to see if there was an update. I've got 3,000 miles on it and am worried about damage to the engine over its lifespan if this problem is not resolved. Skip
Your overheat is just the reason I had my dealership order a new fan, as the clutch is bad. I am waiting for my Chalet camping trailer to be build (10 week lead time) and I want to insure there is no overheat while I'm towing. My overheat comes while climbing long hills in 95 deg weather with the A/C on. Have them ck the fan clutch as it could be bad like mine. Good luck.
I've been following this forum for some time now with the intention of purchasing a Liberty CRD, either new or lightly used, in the near future.
I expect that no more 2005 units are coming out of the plant and production is now devoted to the 2006 model year. Therefore new 2005 units are limited to stock inventory and perhapse a number of units that are in storage yards somewhere.
Does anyone have a line on when the 2006 model will begin showing up at the dealers? I understand there is a longer wheelbase Liberty coming out in 2006.
I've have written a couple messages a while ago pertaining to the CRD's CCV(closed crankcase ventilation) system. If you could go back and refer to those messages and please give me your thoughts on that. I believe that this could pose a serious problem in the near future of our Liberties. Also would it be a good idea to install a CCV filter to catch the oil (blow by) that is being sucked back into our turbos. Thank you.
This is a warning to anyone already having cooling issues.I spent the month of June on a vacation to the northwestern states from home base in central Florida.I had some high temp indication before the trip and had pretty much thought it was cured after having the EGR replaced along with the computer "flash".However,since I was pulling a trailer on the trip the problem started to occur again.The indicator would move slowly up to near max before the engine fan would engage.Once both fans were going the temp would fall back to normal,or near normal.I figured since the tempurature never stayed up and it never triggered the light and chime in the instruments it was'nt going to cause any harm.Here is the problem that I didn't figure on.The torque convertor is making a lot of this heat and the tranny cooler is trying it's best to throw it off.So while I thought everything would be ok,in reality my tranmission was slowly getting cooked.I never saw any indication of an oveheated transmission and continued on with the trip.Now,to make this sad narrative short the end result is my Jeep is needing a transmission rebuild.I've been told my 4000lb load was too close to the limit and adding an aftermarket tranny cooler would be a good idea.So now the dealer is scheduled to do the repairs this week after almost two weeks of palavering back and forth with the zone rep.I'm considering one of the fan assisted coolers out of a Summit catalogue.So my advice is to beef up your tranny cooling abilities and watch the weight of total load as well as the total frontal area of any trailer.Good luck,I'll be in contact.
Since they advertise a 5000# trailer capability and the transmission is supposed to be the same one in the mid-size trucks I do not understand why the transmission cooked. Depending upon the route you took there are some long hills. How did it pull and did you have the OD locked out? Would it heat up only on hills or also on the flats? My trailer is 4000# and is a slab fronted beast. It will drop the mileage on my Cummins by 1/3 and the Durango I was driving by 1/2. The trailer rating is one reason I bought the CRD. I do not tow often but I definitely wanted the capability. I think that a transmission temp gauge would probably be a good idea and also an extra cooler, but if you are not having to work the thing that hard it should not need them. Does anybody have any idea what the maximum trans temp should be? I would be interested in finding out exactly what failed-this would give us all an idea of what the Jeep is capable of.
Comments
It's intake manifold and EGR / intercooler fouling and it's a common problem on diesels with closed crankcase ventilation (CCV) that employs sucking the crankcase vapors out of the valve cover into the turbo and through the intercooler and the EGR valve into the intake manifold. The design is intended to burn those crankcase vapors and thus significantly hold down emissions. Bad thing is you will eventually get oil vapor buildup in your intercooler. What really gets bad is when the oily crankcase vapors make contact with the recirculating exhaust gases in the EGR valve and then a buildup of oily soot begins in the EGR valve and on into the intake manifold. Diesels' dirty little secret.
One solution is to dismantle your intake/intercooler/EGR/intake manifold and clean this oily mess out about every 60,000 miles. I'm doing that right now with a VW TDI that had the EGR and intake manifold partially obstructed to the point it was affecting performance.
Another solution is to install a CCV filter or trap between the discharge from the crankcase and the inlet to the suction side of the turbo. That way you can trap the oil from getting into your intake but still burn those crankcase vapors. There is some cheap home garage designs out there and a few commercial engineered ones. I'm looking to get a ProVent or Racor on my Libby as soon as I can. Do an internet search on CCV filters or pcv catchcans and see what I mean.
You guys this isn't a joke. Here is a link to go see the picture. Please go and see!! Thanks!
BIGPAPA">
http://thom.smugmug.com/photos/28792694-M.jpg
http://www.mann-hummel.com/mhuk/upload/doc/HBGDHjDBaVQ.pdf
Unfortunately, it’s 70 degrees here today so the dealer may not be able to replicate the problem unless they tested it yesterday when the temperature was over 100 degrees. We are waiting for the dreaded we can’t get it to do it phone call.
I agree that the vacuum booster is to assist in the mechanical operation of the foot pedal. I believe a spring is what returns the foot pedal to the uppermost range of travel. The brake booster holds around enough vacuum for 4-5 pumps of the foot pedal after shut down, just like a gasser using manifold vacuum. The only difference is the source of the vacuum. It looks like vacuum comes from the pump, goes to the check valve on the booster which has a second line out with a hose, with a check valve in it, to the VGT vacuum reservoir.
If the abs? line is not pinched in the spring causing something, I can only think of three other things to help spete.
If the front end vibrates at speed, could out of round rotors be heating up the fluid? On my previa the bad hoses and action on the rotors actually melted the pads and produced a ridge on the edge of the pad surface.
You used the word servo. Another thing I can think of is an abs issue that is not posting an error code. Is hot fluid the cause of locking brakes or a result of hanging pads? Disconnect the abs and drive around?
Is the master cylinder at fault? (bad caliper/pistons in both fronts would seem odd)
Check it and flush all the old fluid from the system. Our '92 previa was one of those that got contaminated freon. Toyota solution-a can of neutralizing oil. And years later the system sprung holes everywhere. Last toyota.
If turning the ignition off and on frees the brakes, then it seems it is an electrical issue. The only electrical parts to my knowledge in a brake system, other than the mechanical brake light switch on the pedal, and a low brake fluid level sensor, are solenoids in the abs system.
I don't think the mechanical vacuum booster can be the problem. But spete didn't expound on the"pedal had no play" fully extended? engaged at somepoint towards the floor? Up and held up by not only the spring but also by vacuum/hydraulics?
Another issue, why didn't the brakes exhibit this problem from the start?
I hate to keep using my old problems as the source of my posts, but.
Our '96 ford e-150 conversion van had 4 wheel abs which was a surprise to some ford "mechanics" (this is another 6 dealers, one replacing calipers another screwed up etc but we found our own answer to the problem story)
Some time after owning it, on startup up we would hear a "weeeeee". My wife and I, after dealers go duh, found the problem. With engine cover removed, we pinpointed the problem noise as coming from the abs unit. I went to as yet again another dealer and asked to be written up and pay for, warranty is no good if they are idiots, a complete brake flush/bleed. You could not bleed the abs unit without a tool that does the abs electronically through the obd connector. (The manual bleeding only works at the wheels and master cylinder.) The tool opens and closes the solenoids. I found the tool's manufacturer and got a k's of dollars quote.
Weeeee now gone. I'm assuming that sometime after we bought the van the abs was activated-goodyear wranglers, couldn't go or stop in the rain. This alllowed air trapped somewhere to move into an abs position to make the noise, Stopping issue-who knows couldn't get wet traction with the wranglers anyway.
I got my car back home and tested it above a climb...and surprise! no overheating!!!
He told me they have changed the fan clutch. I was happy until I opened the cowling and........THEY HAVE REMOVED THE ENGINE PLASTIC COVER. I fear that doing so they have only eluded the problem, it seem to me that this trick has only improved a little the heat dissipation.
Will they remove my wheels if I'll ever have a problem with them?
I believe anomious told us the VGT parts are inside the exhaust flow and wondered how they were lubricated(thin oil and additives?).
The talk here about HD 5w40 oil, the only difference I believe is the base thinness. There are molecules that respond to heat and produce an oil with properties of 40w. Does Jeep use 0w40 Mobil1 for it's thinness and possibly less deposits in the "...egr and other exhaust issues"?
Does the electric egr work better than VW? Is the CCV necessary (does this filter reduce oil vapors to the VGT?)or should we be like be like TDI's, join clubs and share laptops?
If they took it off on purpose tell them you want it back for use in the winter time when it's hard to warm up a diesel.
The normal airflow under a hood is back and downward - you would have to remove the entire hood to make much difference.
P.S. Make sure all of the rubber parts are there. The little knobs that the cover sits on can hang on to the rubber parts pretty good. A little grease or vaseline on the knobs helps a lot for future removal.
This sounds reasonable. Hot days, around town with a/c on, pulling into the garage for the turbo cool down, the high speed would kick in before the guage moved. then would fall to slow speed, then the electric fan would stop.
There seems to have been a smoke test done showing better air flow with the cover on. You might want to retrieve your engine cover. It could have been a careless mistake or a desire for a great office decoration.
When the ABS comes into action, you hear it and it should display a warning light on the console. It also changes the stiffness of the brake pedal by pulsing it. Those who had locked brakes would have noticed this.
As of the mechanical fan clutch, I had mine replaced because of excessive play on the propeller shaft bearing. It would really be a nightmare if trucks had both problems at the same time, ie brakes and fan clutch.
The plastic cover is only an accoustical device that does not restric airflow since it stands in the middle of a 'dead' zone when the hood is closed and it has clearance above the engine and under the hood.
When the diesel Liberty was introduced in Europe, the quality assurance argument was put forward to emphasize DC's will to succeed. I hope they havent forgotten the newer version that was said to have more 'this and that'!
1) If all 4 brakes are dragging (and they were) you can rule out calipers, pads, shoes, etc...
2) Defective compensator valve in the master cylinder.
3) Defective power booster (a defective valve controlling vacuum).
4) Misplaced brake light switch preventing the brake pedal from fully returning.
This is all pretty basic stuff for a mechanic to check out. A misplaced brake light switch is something almost anyone can check.
I would have included misadjusted push rods on the list but maybe these are not adjustable.
I
What did the dealership do to correct the overheating
It's still sitting at the dealership. Coming up on 7 days and counting. Thanks for asking.
Yup, it appears to be the same problem. I heard from the dealer late yesterday. I’m getting the same nonsense - “Your must understand that we can’t make it happen so we cannot work on a problem that doesn’t exist.”
I’m going to pick it up this afternoon. Unfortunately I’m leaving on vacation for a week so I won’t be able to get back to the problem or respond to posts until week after next. Good luck.
1- I wrote to VM motori, not to Chrysler.
2- VM relayed me first to the swiss national "Technical Inspector" by mistake who contacted the french one immediately. He was never very 'willing', but told my local rep I had a problem.
3- My local rep just gave a 5 minutes look.
He was wearing very nice clothes and everyone could understand he would not get dirty, his mission was to sell the Grand Cherokee or the new 300. Primitively spirited customers would like to look as good as this man assosciated to the wealth mirrored by the fancy car. To any engineering question he answered by waving his hand. Useless...
I decided to let it get worse to the point of leaving the truck along the road if necessary. (sell it to the insurance)
After one year I went 30 miles from home to another dealer, in fact where I bought it, and there stood a real chief mechanics. We test drove the truck 45 minutes together and finally eliminated all possible issues.
I've been here for 36 years now and he's the second person with such skills I've ever met including racetrack fanatics. He told me I was a customer hard to please but he let me assist and told me everything about the service and what to look for in case of problems. I can attest this truck is very nicely built and straightforward for those of you who are willing to get underneath it. I bought him a few bottles of champagne and my family will buy other vehicles there as long as he's around.
Tough life for our local top models :shades:
I guess I got lucky as to which dealer I purchased from.
My CRD is going to the dealer on Monday to have the brakes checked. The alloy wheels seem to get much hotter than those on my old Dodge Dakota. I am concerned that the calipers are not fully letting go when I take my foot off the brake pedal. I still get an occasional sticking or binding sensation when I release the brake pedal. Temperature is not relevant nor is the type of driving. I will let you know what they find, if anything.
Have a great weekend.
Can we also report on unsatisfactory experiences?
Steve, Host
Can we also report on unsatisfactory experiences?
Maybe that will get some people's attention at Jeep. I was considering a CRD, but they certainly need to get this resolved instead of giving people the run around and being too lazy think beyond computer codes.
I found and quizzed the two mechanics in the shop area about the CRD on the day we saw it on the show room floor, took a test drive and bought it. I knew nothing about the CRD, I was there to enter a contest. The older mechanic asked if I really wanted to be a first year buyer. The younger mechanic said go for it. They were both right.
We are experiencing some issues (suppliers/assembly line) and the CRD is great.
Courtesy Jeep-Chrysler in Rockville, MD
It took a week but they went through it and found the problem.
I had several conversations with the service manager and the service tech about what they were doing and finding.
In the overall, I am quite happy with the service department.
It still has a slight fade off the line with a cold engine.
Has anyone had this problem and what did they do about it?
My SW Colorado dealer is:
Being given one more week due to the courtesy of the tech that went on the test drive with me; then it’s the “wall of shame” for this outfit followed by a “Five-Star” complaint.
mdamick:
I have the slight fade too but at this point, it’s a bit low on my list. Good luck!
No check-engine light but just about everything else mentioned here.
-Remove one of the front wheels and while the engine is stopped give a bit of play to the brake pads like if you wanted to remove them.
-Turn the engine on, the pads should stay where they had been left.
-Ask someone to apply the brakes while you observe the pads moving in. Leave the engine running.
If there is a vacuum booster malfunction you will not be able to open the pads. If this is the case turn the engine off and wait a few seconds before you do the check again. Be shure to have the transmission dis-engaged and don't ask a child for help :mad:
This is my FIRST posting in here and I hope that i can be of some help. Have owned the diesel since 6-11-0-5. NOTHING but praise for it. After endeless searches, I have FINALLY found aftermarket oil filters for it. Here are the numbers:
PUROLATOR PL25230
L25230
FRAM PH8316
NAPA 1315
Hope this helps someone out!
As of 3 weeks ago there was no aftermarket fuel filter & jeep wants $40 for a Mopar.
The NAPA oil filter works just fine.
Your overheat is just the reason I had my dealership order a new fan, as the clutch is bad. I am waiting for my Chalet camping trailer to be build (10 week lead time) and I want to insure there is no overheat while I'm towing.
My overheat comes while climbing long hills in 95 deg weather with the A/C on.
Have them ck the fan clutch as it could be bad like mine.
Good luck.
I expect that no more 2005 units are coming out of the plant and production is now devoted to the 2006 model year. Therefore new 2005 units are limited to stock inventory and perhapse a number of units that are in storage yards somewhere.
Does anyone have a line on when the 2006 model will begin showing up at the dealers? I understand there is a longer wheelbase Liberty coming out in 2006.
Keep up the good information flow!
bigpapa
Depending upon the route you took there are some long hills. How did it pull and did you have the OD locked out? Would it heat up only on hills or also on the flats?
My trailer is 4000# and is a slab fronted beast. It will drop the mileage on my Cummins by 1/3 and the Durango I was driving by 1/2. The trailer rating is one reason I bought the CRD. I do not tow often but I definitely wanted the capability.
I think that a transmission temp gauge would probably be a good idea and also an extra cooler, but if you are not having to work the thing that hard it should not need them.
Does anybody have any idea what the maximum trans temp should be?
I would be interested in finding out exactly what failed-this would give us all an idea of what the Jeep is capable of.