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Jeep Liberty Diesel

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Comments

  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Could not duplicate...
    Ask your mechanic if his income is going down. Ford flat rate slashing caused older mechanics to pack it in and customers like me to travel a fifty mile radius to find help. DC, I believe, is the last of the three to hit the mechanics pocketbooks. Why do I want to spend three hours on your car and get paid for 20 minutes, buy my own tools and health insurance.

    I asked one of two CRD trained mechanics at the dealership at my first trip back about some items while he was rebuilding a new gasser's engine. He said this Jeep/Chrysler shop has got so many models that it is not possible to keep up with everything.

    Winter2 posted his dealer's name, he's fortunate.. I'm sorry you don't have any options. Soon a lot of us won't either.
  • sailman397sailman397 Member Posts: 15
    BC,

    I had the same problem. The solution was to reprogram the computer and replace the EGR. After that it was back to excellent performace.

    Will Museler
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    For all of you with Drivability issues

    I found this on another bulletin board/blog. These are a group of TSB's released by DC. Hope this is helpful. :)

    From alldata:

    18-009-05 (Engine Controls - Hard Start in Extreme Cold Conditions) Build date cutoff February 20, 2005 (MDH 0220XX).

    18-018-05 (Engine Controls - Engine Run-Up on Hot Re-Start) Build date cutoff May 15, 2005 (MDH 0515XX).

    Not listed on alldata, but found this over on jeepsunlimited.com

    18-007-05 (Improved DrDrivabilitynd Erroneous DTC's) Build date cutoff February 13, 2005 (MDH 0213XX).

    I believe the last one is for the stumbling issue, but would like someone to clarify this as it says it applies to export models (2005 KJ Cherokee International Markets) only.

    The build date (MDH-month day hour) is on a white label located on the drivers door. An example: 011610 = January 16 10th hr.
  • smokey8smokey8 Member Posts: 1
    I purchased a new CRD Liberty this past June and only have 9900 Kilometres on the odometer. This is the first year the diesel is available here in Canada. So far I have had my engine light come on 3 times and today I ended up leaving the dealership with a courtesy rental. I put in a K&N airfilter @ 5000Kms and the dealership believes that this may be the problem. First couple of times fault codes indicated problem with Mass air flow sensor. System was flashed first time-back 300kms later-system was then upgraded with new software. Two days later engine light came on again but noticed lack of power when pushing on accelerator. Jeep almost stalled while driving. Diagnostic computer now says turbo boost pressure low and EGR problem. Any one else with this problem? :confuse:
  • ecramanecraman Member Posts: 25
    My CRD was purchased in March and built in February. Has 10,500 miles. No problem until they re-flashed the computer last week. On Monday OBDII aka check engine light came on. Today they replaced the EGR due same issue as you have. Did not get home before same thing happened. Now have gas escaping noise under hood. Brought it back. Hopefully have an update tomorrow. Maybe they left a hose loose. Before the re-flash everything was seemingly OK. After today's service the gas escaping noise was new.
  • spetespete Member Posts: 73
    I have been using Amzoil for years - in everything from my pressure washer -Honda engine-to 250 HP CaseIH tractors - and have never had a problem - now that the one service tech has told me that my CRD won't run on Amzoil - think I will worry? Think not -my Amzoil dealer had quite a laugh when he heard the that oil can cause brakes to malmunction. My Liberty is running like a top since service dept/ #2 made the necessary repairs. I have not contacted the original dealer - nor have they attempted to contact me - that may tell me something as the "fix" from Chrysler must surely be available on the technical cumputer by now. Oh well, I'm happy where I am now. Know what else I have found? I always told everyone how fast my CRD got up to operating temp - it doesn't do that anymore! Now I have to drive a couple of miles! Dragging brakes will do that! spete
  • f250sd73f250sd73 Member Posts: 12
    The stock Goodyear tires suck. This is coming from an ex-Goodyear employee. I tried to get the dealership to swap me out. No luck. I couldn't climb a gravel driveway in 4wd. Sit and spin. Would like a nice set of Yokahama Geolanders.
    Definately needs a skid plate over that oil filter. I don't think I would of road at all.
  • edmcarteredmcarter Member Posts: 1
    I have 14,000KM on my LTD Diesel bought in May OBDC light came on a month ago dealer still trying to find out problem replaced computer module, # 1 glow plug, and now have ordered a PCM module and harness. Have also noticed a lack of power when accelerating, smokes every once in a while starting to get hard to start..... Dealer I think has no clue what they are doing :sick:
  • anthonykanthonyk Member Posts: 17
    Build date 01-05. I have 6900 miles and I had the check eng light come on. I did the ignition on/off procedure and got P0110 code (Intake Air Temp Sensor Stuck). I Call the dealer and he said to wait next week when I have my 6000 mile appointment. So far the the jeep has been great. I do hear on a squeak and rattle from the rear breaks when backing up after it's been sitting for more than 24 hours now and then. I hope computer updates go smoth next week!
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    The EGR is a mechanical assembly (valve and housing) and you have a solenoid to move this valve. The valve sees hot exhaust gas with soot (mixture gets too rich when the EGR is open and produces soot), so it can easely get stuck if the machining tolerances are wrong. To some extent you can say this becomes a runnaway condition.
    Here some common rail diesels produce black smoke, some don't. I've read that the worst valves were the Bosch. Jeep uses these according to the VM Motori brochure. The way these are built makes me believe you can service them, or disconnect them (closed) if you have a problem on the road.
    I have a Toyota Corolla diesel that's almost 10 years old. The only electronics this car has is the radio that came with it! It has a catalyser without EGR and it does not smoke nor smell. This thing burnt all kinds of fuels from different countries and never ever complained. This is why I don't correlate smoke with fuel.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    If you want to save some money on tires, mail order them. Go to www.tirerack.com. Their prices are quite reasonable and their selection of tires is very extensive. They do have forums for each tire so you can make an informed decision based on the input of other people who have used the tire you might be interested in.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I believe my 1981 Isuzu diesel had an EGR valve, but it was not electronically controlled. I partially agree with your statement about fuel. In europe, the standard for diesel fuel is much higher than here in the U.S. Fuel quality here varies so much that you do not know what you are going to get. Remember, in europe ULSD has been in place for some time now and that in itself will make a big difference. In the U.S., diesel fuel is considered an industrial fuel, so the standards are not as stringent as for gasolene.

    In any event, whether driving my CRD or my Isuzu, I noticed a difference in engine performance, level of noise/vibration depending on where I purchased my fuel. On the Isuzu, it would smoke more with certain brands of diesel fuel then with others. On the CRD, I get the best performance and smoothest running on Shell, while other brands give more noise, vibration and slightly less performance.

    As for EGR valve failure, my guess is that I will eventually have to replace the EGR valve on the CRD. In a previous posting, you mentioned Siemens. I believe you stated that they had a superior product. I wonder if the EGR valve in the european CRD is the same one that is used in the U.S. version? If so, I wonder how difficult it would be to get the Siemans part here?

    As to your Corolla, I am sure it would be having difficulties if it was electronically controlled. If the CRD diesel could run without all of the controls placed on it, I am sure it would as run as reliably as the Corolla.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    It pleases me that all is resolved for you. I guess you are lucky that there is another dealer within a reasonable distance from your home. I feel for the people who are stuck with a single lousy dealer when the next one is many hundreds of miles away.

    As to the Amsoil issue, I still chuckle when I read your comments. I run Amsoil in our Sears lawnmower that has a Briggs & Stratton engine and my in wife's Chrysler. I ran it in my Dodge Dakota for twelve years and not one issue. The engine was spotless after 125K miles. Their other lubricants, fuel additives, and greases are quite good too.
  • bardwell02bardwell02 Member Posts: 4
    Ecraman - We have 7600 miles, build date was 2/25/05. I had a CEL, low power and poor mileage, this all appears cured by re-flashing and replacing the EGR yesterday. But I now have exactly what you described, it seems like there is exhaust gas under the hood, I can smell it from the A/C vents, and I have a whistling sound that is definitely NOT normal turbo whine. Please let us know what you find out.
  • europasusaneuropasusan Member Posts: 4
    Yes! The lack of power upon pressing the accelerator and then sometimes almost stalling where symptoms in my situation for needing the EGR valve replaced. EGR replaced at 5,000 miles and again at 12,000 miles. This last time they also did the flash per TSB 18-018-05.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    I checked the symptoms described by the fix you received:
    -Crankshaft position sensing
    -Camshaft position sensing
    These two signals should be checking for a broken timing belt. Too late to stop anyway...
    -Negative turbo pressure signal
    This one checks for minimal intake operating pressure. Not enough pressure, needs to inject less fuel. Could also be a loose EGR connection. In this case you have a whisler under the hood.
  • playgabeplaygabe Member Posts: 31
    After reading about all the over heated engines I decided to ck mine. I drove 4 miles in 90 deg. heat with the AC on, climbing 1300 feet. The engine temp climbed to 2/3rds b/4 stopping. I decided to ck the fan clutch with my dealer and he agreed with me it was defective. It took two weeks to get a replacement. He showed me the old one and the new one and u could tell the old one was bad due to no resistance between the clutch and the female nut.. It took him about an hr and a half to R&R the fan clutch. I just took the same drive up the 1300 foot climb in 90 deg heat with the AC on and the temp gauge stayed just below half way.
    Thanks to this forum I hope my heat trouble is fixed. I'll know for sure when my camping trailer is delivered in a few weeks and go for a test drive.
  • f250sd73f250sd73 Member Posts: 12
    Just to let you all know exactly what an EGR vavle is for.
    The Exhaust Gas Recirculation valve opens a port between the exhaust manifold and the intake manifold. This will only occur when the engine is at operating temp and above idle. Usually about 1500-2000 rpm.
    Now Why in the world would you want to pollute your clean air intake with exhaust fumes?
    EPA restrictions on the amount of NOx in the extream is why we have them. It works by reducing the combustion chamber temperature. Since NOx is formed only at high combustion temp. Which is why Biodiesel typically increases the NOx emmsions. Biodiesel burns hotter.
    Great, it's an emmision control device. Now if it malfunctions it will remain closed by the spring pressure and your car will run fine or even better. But if carbon deposits hold the valve open you can even have a NO START, rough idle, wandering engine RPM, missfires, loss of power, smoke and check engine lights. I can even see this causing overheating since the O2 sensor will get incorrect readings and the fuel injection will attempt to compensate thus overloading your engine with fuel.

    I used to be an expert ASE master tech. I'm a little behind the time on new tech. But an EGR is still the same.

    You can clean them by removing it.
    On these jeeps, it's under warranty so why bother. :)
  • dfw2dfw2 Member Posts: 11
    I also had the fan clutch diagnosed as defective and it was replaced. My experience has been limited since then because I haven't driven the Jeep much and temperatures have been fairly cool. However, the drive home from the dealer that day takes me up a 7 mile grade which is where I first experienced overheating. The drive from the dealer was cooler this time and in the 70's yet the gauge went to 3/4. I don't think the fan clutch replacement made an impact in that situation

    I am inclined to agree with a poster in another forum with the opinion that a faulty fan clutch shouldn't make an impact on radiator heat when driving at interstate speeds. Probably the impact will be noticeable in city driving, I suspect.

    The solution to the overheating issue is not with fan clutch replacement, but I don't know what the solution is.
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    "The solution to the my (your) overheating issue is not with fan clutch replacement, but I don't know what the solution is." My overheating problem occurs with a tail wind while climbing hills, exclusively. Fan clutch is certainly indicated.
  • stucoltsstucolts Member Posts: 15
    Hi The overheating issue, first the gage at the 1/2 way mark is aproximtly 200 deg.(norm. running temp) at 3/4 225 deg. ( temp still ok) Any higher is getting to a danger zone and at the last mark 250 deg. TO HOT. Now my corvette witch has a digital read out ran between 190- and 237 to get it lower I put in a 160 thurmostate 180 is stock. Now water temp. is 180- 205 deg. However the vette has 2 electric fans. One comes on when the temp. reaches 190 the other fan comes on when ever the air is turned on.So you must re program the fan to come on at 160 deg. for the 160 thermostat. (This I did). Now our CD;s Try turning the air on and off, go to the front of the jeep that fan is operated by the air cond.(15second delay) so it should run cooler with the air on unless it also comes on when the temp. reaches a curtain temp. ( mine has never gone past 1/2 ( I dont tow) Now we have a clutch fan could we put in a lower thurmostate to resolve the problem? Also note that all engines are set to run around 190 deg. this helps meet the emissions laws. My vette still passes after this change and NO check eng. light.
  • actarusactarus Member Posts: 20
    Sorry that you haven't solved the overheating issue with the replacement of the fan clutch. With the fan clutch replaced my heat gauge never went over half way, no matter where I drive: interstate, hillclimb or highway. I made also an intensive climb for about an hour and no sign of overheating.
  • 4kster4kster Member Posts: 49
    We got our CRD back from the dealership (28 days in shop 30 days out of service). They were able to replicate the dragging brake problem and eventually replace both the power brake booster and the master cylinder. They were unable to get rid of a fault code – P0531.

    P5031 shows up on code lists for other DC vehicles as an air conditioning fault code (air works fine). However, this is NOT a Liberty CRD code according to DC. We went for a short test drive and it drove okay. Strangely, the transmission seems to work perfect now. Shifts are quick and firm without being harsh during in-town driving (did not go on highway).

    We have lost all confidence in this vehicle. Another 10 days in the shop and we qualify for the “lemon law” on our state. After reading all the posts on this site, I’d bet real money that our CRD will not make it a year without something else serious cropping up. In my opinion the lemon days are still counting while the fault code persists.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    The fan clutch on my truck has a spiral spring that senses the incoming air temperature. When the setpoint temperature is reached the spiral coils on itself and turns a little shaft that engages the clutch. There is no setting here and one could test it with a hair dryer or hot air gun to feel the drag on the propeller. This looks like a simple thermo-mechanical brake type clutch.
  • bullheadbullhead Member Posts: 125
    Will be towing our boxy 2,500 lbs travel trailer up 2,800 feet over the hump tonight. Haven't addressed past overheating yet. We're in wait for the service bulletin to come out. I'll try keeping the overdrive in, downshifting to 2nd, and remain below 2,800 rpm: if the engine temperature starts to rise too much. May be a better way to manage the problem until a clear path to warranty service is in place. Have 5k miles on'er now. Built in March '05.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Take a look at post #1554. If the problem persists after the clutch fan is replaced, then the problem could possibly be dragging brakes or with a bad EGR valve. A part can fail just enough or intermittently without placing a fault code into the computer and still give you a headache. A faulty part can work adequately under some conditions but fail under different conditions.

    Just a thought. :D
  • floyd1977floyd1977 Member Posts: 1
    My CRD is in the shop right now too (EGR being replaced - which caused the engine light to occur) and I should get it back this afternoon. I also had overheating indicated while towing up a grade a couple weeks back (I never let it get too hot). The service manager read me a service bulletin about overheating saying it was a calibration problem with the sensor and the fix was a computer thing (which is being done). You may want to check with your dealer's service folks about the bulletin addressing the overheating issue.
  • bsidesbsides Member Posts: 4
    Just amazes me that DC is not taking a more aggressive approach to solving issues on these rigs in their first year of run. As a potential buyer watching in the wings, it’s just a big turn off. I have a diesel now and have owned a few in the past. I am sitting here saying “NO WAY” to my number one choice for my next vehicle. Mainly because DC doesn’t appear to be solving customer problems. If I have this wrong please correct me any one. But from what I am reading it brings back nightmares of the GM gas converted diesel I once owned. I know these engines are much more robust then those pieces of junk. But who needs a rig that over heats and you have to go back forth to the dealer trying to get the darn thing running correctly. Then to hear folks say the dealers tell them to just pull over and let it cool down. Just doesn’t give me (as a potential buyer) the warm and fuzzy feelings!
  • jimi7jimi7 Member Posts: 17
    I'm with you bsides. The CRD definately had me interested. I drove one and liked it, but held off. Now I'm luke warm on getting a CRD. Some problems in the first year are expected, however, unresponsiveness is not only unexpected but intolerable.
  • hawk521hawk521 Member Posts: 19
    DC has now addressed the overheating issue. TSB 08-043-05 "Instruments: Temperagure Gauge Reads Higher Than Normal" was released on August 11, 2005. It is specitic to the 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD.

    from the TSB:

    "SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
    The customer may notice that the engine temperature gauge may indicate that the engine temperature is high. In hot ambient temperatures, and under certain driving conditions of extended uphill driving while towing a trailer, the engine temperature indicator may indicate slightly above the 3/4 normal operating termperature mark on the temperature gauge (but below the engine hot temperature markings). This condition may be caused by an incorrect calibration of the engine temperature gauge."

    The TSB goes on to say that the fix will be included on the September 2005 DVD release of their DBRIII software (version level 62.2.) Is supposed to be available on their CINONConnect and TechCONNECT for download by August 26, 2005. Involves a reprogram of the Instrument Cluster and relates ONLY to 2.8L diesel Liberty.

    Allows for only 2/10 hour - so must be relatively painless.

    PS - It is certainly possible that some of the overheating issues with the CRD are indeed real. However, this TSB certainly suggests that the problem for many owners is simply related to the gauge reading higher (under some rather curious and specific circumstances) than it should be.

    At least they have addressed it. Time will tell if that is the solution we've needed all along...

    Hawk
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    The lack of responsiveness as I see it is not just a DC problem, but a problem throughout the automotive industry. It does not matter which manufacturer it is, they are all going to be slow about responding to issues.

    I am not trying to defend DC by any means, but this is the reality of how these companies work. They are big bureracracies with many layers, like the U.S. government. It takes time for them to respond too.

    As for the dealers, there a bunch of bad apples in the DC barrel as there are with the other manufacturers. The bad dealers tarnish the reputation of the company they represent.

    I grant you it is frustrating for those of you with recurrent issues. I am sure I would be unhappy if I were in the same boat.

    Remember, there are only 5000 - 6000 CRD's here in the States. The computer programming is different here from what they have in Europe because emissions rules are different here. Plus, I do programming and if you mess with one module, you may be unintentionally impacting on another or a few others causing them to act strangely. Diesel cars are a fairly rare commodity in this country, so there will be teething pains not only with DC but with the mechanics at the dealers. If diesels become more common, and I hope they do, you will see fewer issues and the mechanics who will have greater exposure to diesels will be able to offer better service.

    My CRD was built on May 2nd and I have had to have it back at the dealer once for software crash at 586 miles. I am now at 2450 miles and it runs like a dream. :D
  • 4kster4kster Member Posts: 49
    I write programmins too. If I change one of the values or an equation that calculates one variable I get one answer. If I change values or equations in the calculation of another variable I get a different answer. If I change both at the same time I get a third answer due to interaction.

    Since diesel Liberties were in use for a while in Europe, I thought that the bugs would be worked out before US production. Didn’t they test them? I get the impression the design team got thirsty on a Friday night and said, “Oh, heck, close enough. Let’s go get a beer!” And, they didn’t come back.

    I sympathize a little with the dealerships. They didn’t manufacture the crappy parts or write the faulty programs, yet they are expected to step up and take care of the problems. What we need is to pry those DC engineers out of the pub and get them back on the problems. It also might be a good idea to stop outsourcing critical parts to the lowest bidders. I would have happily paid more for this vehicle to not have any problems

    That being said, dealerships should not be giving idiotic responses to owners that borders on dementia. I’m having trouble finding any evidence of either Evolution or “Intelligent Design” in any of this.

    I do agree with you, winter2, that other manufacturers have problems too.
  • ecramanecraman Member Posts: 25
    My dealer who is actually very good (have a 2002 Liberty from there) is talking to DC about the issue of my continuing problem after the EGR valve was replaced. Luckily for me I am able to leave it there most of next week. He said DC has some diagnostics they wanted the dealer to run. They heard the escaping gas noise and agree it is boost leaking although I guess it could be exhaust gas. Did not run it long enough to smell anything. I wonder if they will decide to eliminate the EGR. They told me they have a customer who has three EGR's in 12,000 miles. Will update when I hear more from the dealer. Just before this started I was congratulating myself for the 27 mpg.
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I’m having trouble finding any evidence of either Evolution or “Intelligent Design” in any of this.

    Please! We do not want to open that can of worms here! :)

    tidester, host
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Emissions levels in Europe are so different from here that the programs probably had to be re-written for the U.S. That in itself is a source of issues. Second, European diesel fuel is of a better quality and has almost no sulphur. Since domestic diesel fuel borders on being garbage, you can see how this might contribute to mechanical failure of the EGR valve. I know Caribou1 has written about the quality of the Bosch EGR being not so swift. They use it in Europe, but he has written that there is a Siemens equivalent that is much better.

    As to testing, you also being a programmer, must realize that you cannot think of everything that could cause a program to crash. Even when run past several engineers, they will miss something or some event that no one even thought of will blow the whole thing to bits.

    DC only brought over about 5000 - 6000 of these guys as a test. I think most people are generally satisfied in spite of the issues.

    We would all like an instant and permanent resolution to the problems we are having but it just does not happen that way in some cases.

    As to getting parts from the cheapest supplier, DC is just as guilty as Toyota, Nissan, Kia, GM, Ford, and the rest of them. It is all bottom line.
  • willysjeepwillysjeep Member Posts: 107
    I am not trying to defend DC by any means, but this is the reality of how these companies work. They are big bureracracies with many layers, like the U.S. government. It takes time for them to respond too.

    This paragraph made a few wheels spin in my head. If this is a software problem that hasn't been fixed, why hasn't it been fixed?

    Who did the initial programming? Was it by direct employed DC personnel or do they contract it out?

    I can very easily visualize the MBAs that run these companies patting themselves on the back and telling each other how smart they are as they lay off their directly employed programmers. They've found what appears to be a better deal at Joe's Software and Hot Dog stand. The software is written by Joe and his really smart nephew. The chips are burned into the CRDs. The Jeeps are overheating as described by the entries we've all read.

    Now the MBAs figure, they can go back and hire Joe and the really smart nephew to fix this problem. They can't. They are MBAs and other "professional managers." They can't be expected to soil their hands with such things as computer codes. They find that Joe is up to his eyeballs with another contract with their competitors.

    They hire another programmer. He asks to see the documentation. The MBAs show him every receipt for every billing that Joe has given them. They laugh and give him an odd look when he asks how Joe documented his code. So the other programmer starts from scratch and in the interim the Jeeps continue to overheat.

    Not to worry, the MBAs are once again patting each other on the back because they got a good contract with Joe's successor programmer. This guy is in India and does happen to be as smart as Joe's nephew.

    It may sound cynical, but I've seen big business run in this manner. :)
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Thanks for the MDH
    Friday January 21 at 7AM
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    To the mechanics and service personnel at Meador in FT. Worth
    Thank You
  • crdeviantcrdeviant Member Posts: 6
    1st the best software (as picked by the bean counters) is generated in Bangalore India. This is true crap code. But it’s cheap.

    Second my liberty repeatedly when towing looks as if it will overheat but I never get the chime or the reduction in power (that the manual indicates will happen with true over heating).

    I would not trade my liberty for any other vehicle currently produced in the U.S. (a toureg tdi for free maybe). When the rest of the auto industry comes around and creates a SUV that has a diesel motor I will consider them.

    I love towing with my liberty it kicks butt. I average 22mpg dragging a 2700lb trailer at 75mph. I have 2002 grand Cherokee that averages an amazing 11mpg while towing the same trailer.

    I just completed a trip from PA to Atlanta and back in 3 days 1800miles.
    I averaged 26mpg at 80 mph with 4 adults in the vehicle. The trip down rt 81 and back the vehicle never down shifted once (other than the truck stops).

    My number one complaint.... wait for it.... I want a bigger fill port. I hate hunting the small nozzle at the truck stops.

    Thanks
    CRDeviant
  • 4kster4kster Member Posts: 49
    Sorry tidster and winter2. I think my attempt and humor was take a little too seriously. And, by the way, our CRD brakes failed again in a different way. I'm beginning to lose my sense of humor as well. I will respectfully make no further posts on this forum.
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    4kster
    Again, for whom the bell tolls.
    Please, at least keep reading the posts, keep countdown 10 days and counting.
    Jeep/DC please step up to the plate? another dealer? a good mechanic?

    As the poster just reported and I have stated before there is nothing like the CRD.
    Mine came back yesterday with 4WD. I never had a good linkage-destroyed on the showroom floor or bad parts again like a LOST member earlier this year.

    Meador's experienced heavy line mechanic replaced my broken linkage, we never had 4wd lo and engaging 4wd was a pain when it did engage 3 times. Now it is as easy to do any transfer changes just like the transmission - smoooth.

    And diesel here near dfw airport is 2.49 gal and regular is 2.61 (shell).
  • tired_old_davetired_old_dave Member Posts: 710
    Was it Kawasaki, who when owners complained of hot temperatures, simply recalibrated the gauges lower?
  • crdeviantcrdeviant Member Posts: 6
    ding ding you have answered correctly.

    Kawi did it on the zx900 1984 and the GPZ 750 turbos. Honda did it on the 99 vfr's.
    You have great recall I was not going to talk about that. However my zx900 1984 ran to 40K miles before a rebulid and overbore to 998cc's then it really ran hot.

    CRDeviant
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    I agree with dave-keep posting. I would like to know what other people are experiencing.
    Dave, enjoy the "cheap" fuel. In Chicago it is as high 2.79 and in western SD it is 2.69 .
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    I think my attempt and humor was take[n] a little too seriously.

    I think you took my comment a little too seriously! I saw the humor in your post and attempted to add to it! Surely a little forum "offroading" won't deter a Liberty owner from participating!

    tidester, host
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    If you go for the lemon law keep us posted. That is one way to get their attention. As much as I love diesel and would love to have a Wrangler diesel. I am a bit hesitant with the problems so far with the CRD.
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Has anyone noticed a repeatable fuel quality issue?
    I have a station that I used B2 and my mileage would drop 4 mpg. The first time I thought it was a fluke,only 350 mi, but at 14000 miles it did the same thing again.
    The other stations don't have B fuel so I am not sure what the issue is.
  • gagricegagrice Member Posts: 31,450
    That is interesting. I don't see how 2% biodiesel would make any difference. Has DC made any statements on using higher than 5% biodiesel? I would wonder what they mixed with the biodiesel. It may have been some real old #2 diesel. Is this a major brand dealer? I don't believe I would trust the stuff or anything else they sell. Diesel is a pretty broad spectrum of fuel. When in doubt I would use an additive to be on the safe side.
  • jsymskijsymski Member Posts: 18
    It has been three weeks since DC was issue the Demand notice for the NH Lemon law, and I finally caught their attention! The hearing for this case is set to be scheduled for late September still...

    The regional DC representative came out to see me Friday 8/19. We discussed the problem and he conceded that there "IS" a problem and DC is well aware of it. This is the first time anyone from DC (or the dealership) has admitted that there is a problem. Without giving me anything in writing, he indicated that the problem is "believed to be" with the software for the instrument cluster. The temperature gauge is not indicating an accurate reading (it is showing an exponential amount after 210F), but the sending probe IS sending accurate data. DC has a new software patch they are certifying for the CRD to correct this. He said it should have been released two weeks ago, but it wasn't (didn't explain why). He is hoping it will be released before the end of the month. He tried to get a TEST load of the software to install on my CRD, but was unsuccessful in having it released.

    We discussed ways of immediately identifying this. He has a portable OBD type computer that will show the dynamic temperature. However there was no time to load the trailer up and go for a ride that day - this would clearly have indicated the true temperature. I asked him what the "OVERHEATING" max temperature was (basically what triggers the chime and throws a code) and he said "259 F" (seems a little high to me?). The normal operating temperature is 173.5 F. In fact he drove the divisions test CRD when he came to meet me, and we were able to compare normal operating temperatures of both at idle and warmed up (using the OBD device), and they were identical.

    Based on this, I am going to install a digital coolant temperature gauge on my CRD. I have one from I obtained from Summit Racing, with a probe. I'm going to tie the probe into the heater hose as that is the easiest way to do it. I questioned the rep if this was reasonable and he said yes, it would be very close to the true temperature (the heater flow he explained is always FLOWING, even when the heater is not turned on). I plan to do this next week as I have a camping trip planned soon.

    If this digital gauge indicates a reading different then the cluster gauge (in the lower temp range) then I would agree with DC. There really isn't an overheating problem but rather a gauge error (which they are planning to correct).

    Overall the rep was very decent. In fact, he even personally fixed another nagging problem I was having with an exhaust leak, that two dealerships said didn't exist and "wasn't a problem". Yet he spent the time identifying it, recognizing it and then getting his hands dirty in fixing it. It turned out to be a leak where two pipes joined and an asbestos type wrap was not fitted right - just after the turbo.

    I will update this post when I have more information.
  • naroversnarovers Member Posts: 7
    I have a Canadian version of the Jeep Liberty CRD.I suspect the only difference is that the speedometer is in KPH rather than MPH.I have had zero problems with it so far, and I am up close to 4,000 Kms.I have been reading about the overheating problems and watch my gauge like a hawk..The temp indicator has never gone above 1/8 to the left of centre.We have had some pretty warm temps up here in the so called "frozrn north" 35c to 40c over the past few months.Interestingly,Canadian diesel, fuel like the European product has the sulpher content removed..Don't know if sulpher content contributes to overheating,but one of the posts mentioned that US diesel has sulpher and was not of the best quality compared to Eurpoean fuel.Having said that,does anyone know how to interpret the VIN code to show date of mfg.
    Thanks. :)
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