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It allows a measured amount of the exhaust into the intake manifold to cut down combustion temperatures and help emissions.
If it doesn't work right and allows too much gas in it causes the engine to miss or not run at all.
The NSG370 is a 6 speed manual transmission that should have been put in the CRD but wasn't. They only offer it in the gas models.
I am not sure on the heat issue if it is a gauge or actual temp issue. The earlier post suggests that it does run a bit warm at times.
I have a gauge attached to the cooler line on the transmission and have got to 205 on a warm day pulling a long hill. I am watching it.
The only transmission problem I have is it drops out of overdrive @ 53-55. Annoying but nothing more.
Steve, Host
There are only a few of these out here in CO and I have a dealer trying to pin one down with our specifications.
Curious what some of you paid for your Liberty CRD? I have been whittling down the salesman and we are at 25,887 for the Limited Edition w/ skid and tow pckg (if he can find what I want). Most dealerships out here are asking high 26K even with all the rebates out there.
- When you drive light footed from standstill, just like when at 55 mph on a flat road, without moving the pedal you will notice the gear change happening all the time at the same rpm value.
This engine is different than the gasser in the sense that the throttle pedal could be compared to a 0-100% load demand. On diesels when you think you have a lot of power in reserve in fact sometimes the engine gives all it has, and you don't know about this. Going up a steep incline at 50 mph needs very little pressure on the pedal but if you want to accelerate you often feel nothing comes and later the engine decides to downshift instead of staying in the same gear. It's not the tranny that's wrong, it's due to this very specific type of engine. I don't know if you get a clear picture from this explanation, just try for yourself driving very smoothly.
The dealer was asking $25670 I paid an even $23000 no trade in. That is $1670 off the sticker plus the $1000 rebate to get it to an even 23000. I bought it three months ago. The same dealer in now advertising the same equipped jeep for $22570 after rebates and no trade price. I also took the 36 month financing at 0% So far 3700 mi and no problems. :shades:
I'm still hoping that DC finds a way to fix this dog. LK
Our trailer was bought and brought home empty in the first week in June.
Based on the trailer/heat/fans/radiator flow ad nauseum posts, our trailer has never been used. Our two recent heat episodes were not on the hottest days here and of course not towing.
Provent and now homemade tranny coolers. What next guys. I've spent too much time with this vehicle and these posts.
DC step up to the plate.
Done
Now driving at 55 MPH that is a different story, even without the trailer the CRD doesn't like 55mph, the TC is locking/unlocking at will, I just drive faster - near 60MPH the TC will stay locked.
I did notice that the TC shifts less when the cruise control is ON. I think the throttle-by-wire is very sensitive under foot control.
On the overheating issue - Is the radiator actually boiling over or is it just the gauge rising? :confuse:
recently to check out a very minor oil leak and was a little shocked at the
oil filter location. My oil leak was slightly loose oil filter which I tightened back
up, but now I'm a little nervous about that filter. An errant thrown stone offroad
or a piece of junk run over on the pavement could take that baby right out.
I see a few people make skid plates for the rear engine/transfer case area,
but do these need to be engine specific, e.g., would a plate that works on a
3.7 gas work also on the CRD? Any recommendations from anybody?
http://www.carfolio.com/specifications/models/car/?car=61116
I've also driven with this type of engine and I prefer it to the common rail for it's simplicity. It was much smoother to drive and less sophisticated. Time will tell if the common rail is as robust. I have my doubts about the electronics in the Jeep and I would be very enthusiastic to retrofit a mechanical injection. Cables, cams and levers are easier to repair and understand for most diesel mechanics. The same applies to the tranny. Is it already too late to change :confuse:
This is my second common rail engine and I would not have bought it with the manual gearbox. It's just too 'weak' in the low rpm range to provide a comfortable ride (typically sunday driving). This type of engine with a manual shift gives nothing, then a thunderstom like acceleration, then nothing again. In the small cars we have here, everytime you change gear the passengers move in and out of their seats. We used to say we were sea-sick on a boat, now I say we are common-rail sick in the cars. It's really unpleasant. :sick:
The overheating of the tranny is in fact masking the issue of the punctual acceleration. The converter has to slip to keep the engine within the narrow band of acceleration efficiency. You can feel this when the LO gears are engaged. The shifting is then brutal on flat ground.
but the bell tolls for all of us whether some don't believe it or won't admit it
Our heat issue happened at 100F in stop and go rolling traffic on the level.
~10 - 10.5K miles on the odometer, with a whole bottle of redline in a full tank, since mostly used diesel kleen in every tank. Was it a cleaning effect of the redline. Oil changes early as well as air filter replacement.
Heat destroys. Cast iron/aluminum motor.
A HD transmission with synthetic fluid.
I don't know about oil filter seal integrity with a retightening-maybe you're okay.
Buy a filter and drain gasket(metal washer) and seven quarts of Mobile 1 0w40. The fill amount is about 6 qts and 13 ounces.
I use an 8mm long allen wrench. You may need a cheater tube over the wrench to get the drain plug out. I now tighten it just as hard when I reinstall. Torqueing it like a normal drain plug on ours causes weepage (no drops in the garage just a wet drain plug - enough to wet a finger tip)
Someone posted the the gasser plate trans plate no. and I reiterated the number.
It was just installed by an off road shop because two dealers couldn't find the nutzert numbers let alone the nurzert tool. Buy the $25 plate and find a good off road shop with the tool to install the two nutzerts after they drill two holes in the cross member. The hole in the plate exposes the drain plug. The oil filter is partially protected except for a lateral hit.
There are off road places to lurk and see what serious off roaders use.
That's what I was asking to do without in my first post - (The TSB really calmed our pedal response of the engine. Fast high rev'ing - tach gone wild. ) If taking off the turbo would give me that, I would gladly take a no throw yourself back in the seat reaction just a gradual rise in power, slower 0-60 times, better fuel mileage, and have no need to look at the dash instead of the highway, and get 500k miles and better mpg while doing it. Why does Cummins not need an egr.
I don't believe that the skid plate for the 3.7L will work on the CRD, but the following part numbers have also been displayed on a few other forums.
TRANSMISSION SKID PLATE part # 52128925AC
NUT part # 6506644AA
BOLT part # 6505027AA
I'm not sure which vehicles these were originally designed for, so have the dealership search for these parts to see.
I'm still shocked that Jeep even gave the CRD its "TRAIL RATED" badge. In my opinion, I think they should do a recall on all CRD's once a skid plate is designed and install them free of charge.
I posted about a plate part number the Grubbs parts manager found in the fall parts book he just got in. He stated it could've just passed testing and been given a temporary number because no price or ordering was available. Expected availabilty november but could easily be here in october. The extra effort to get it done now was another texas road full of junk with people swerving - us included. The off road shop said it fits great and there's no need to worry about any new part that may or may not be coming.
On my return trip from Florida, I stopped using the RedLine additive. I wanted to see if things would be different. Fuel economy went up a little, engine noise remained the same, and performance did not suffer. Blew the EGR's nose several times and amount of smoke was the same, clearing by the third time. I attribute the smoke to the rotten quality of U.S. diesel fuel.
While in Florida, it was very hot and very humid. Ran the A/C most of the time. The temperature gauge stayed right where it always is, just below the half-way point, no matter what the traffic conditions were at the time. I do not tow.
As for tires, I cannot blame you for being upset. I replaced mine at 111 miles. Big, big improvement. Rarely use four wheel drive.
Skid plate issue does bother me some. Hit a five gallon plastic bucket at 75 mph and it got stuck under the Jeep. Had to pull over and pry it out. No damage but will consider designing a small skid plate just to protect the oil filter.
Brake grinding noise: had it intermittently for the first 1500 miles and then it stopped.
Provent issue: unless DC says I need one, I am not going near it. The intercooler looks like it is pretty easy to remove and could probably cleaned.
As for assembly issues, all cars have them.
Good Luck!
I had an Isuzu diesel car back in the early 80's. Never plugged it in but it always started.
It is located on the driver's side of the engine, low on the block and just in front of the flywheel. It is also water cooled, so removing it means opening the cooling system.
Frankly, I would not touch it.
The truck will run fine without it, it is just another piece of emission stuff that is put on vehicles. May even run better without it, can't tell at this point.
If you are in a state that does emissions tests, it may not pass. Not sure if diesels are put through the same tests as gassers.
You would not want to try to replace it on the road-it is rather buried.
Yes, I agree, that is why I don't think this TSB did anything for the problem. The A/C was on too.
cheap and it does exactly what I want it to do.
I'll have to study this one a bit and see how I can disable it. My state does not sniff the the diesels for emissions.
LK
What dealership in the DC metro area are you going to and are you satisified with their work on your CRD? I will need to bring mine in for the 6,250 mile service soon and my dealer only has one certified CRD mechanic.
I stopped the additive for now. Want to drive 1500 miles to see if not using it makes any difference.
I think the jerking is the transmission trying to make up it's mind if it should be in fifth or in fourth. I assume the jerking stops at speeds beyond fifty-five?
Ok, with that said. I had to bypass my EGR while I waited for a new one. I did this two ways.
First way:
Disconnect both electrical connectors for the EGR and EGR mixing valve. This way will set off codes P0403, P0299, P0401, and P1140.
Second way:
Plug the EGR pipe that goes from exhaust manifold to EGR valve. I did this with a 1.25" square piece of stainless steel. This way will set off code P0401.
Both ways will set off the CEL, but made a undriveable Jeep driveable. I prefer the second way as the first way the EGR mixing valve will not hold if the EGR valve has failed in the open postion.
With ULS diesel and/or tuners turning off the EGR system this may be a problem of the past.
AB.
About the tires! If you go to a 245-70-16, things will be ok.
225-75-16 245-70-16
Diameter 29.3" 29.5"
Circumfrence 92" 92.7"
Revs/mile 689 684
Speedometer 60 Actual speed 60.4
sorry, the spacing messed up! LK
It was mentioned in one of the posts that the early manufactured CRD's were having most of the issues. What months are considered "early" and at what point during manufactucturing were some of these issues ironed out?
What additives are you adding and why are you adding them?
Thanks for bearing with me.
We have an '05 CRD with the 'C' Package built in March. 5.5k miles. Put Shell brand diesel in it exclusively, with no extra additives, and have yet to understand all this talk about additives. However, I believe these vehicles may be extra sensitive to diesel quality, so the additives could be well be justified. All I can say is if you have easy access to Shell fuels, worry not.
We've done nothing to our Liberty and love it. Not to say I won't install additional transmission cooling- since I tow a lot. But this is nothing out of the ordinary. Yikes is right ! Your reaction is understandable.
Turning off the EGR or plugging it will contribute to higher NOx pollution.
I made the mistake of buying an 05 Laredo without test driving it up here in the mountains. Did great in city, but put it on a mtn road and you are going 70 mph downhill before you blink an eye. I find myself braking, not driving for 30 miles a day, or driving in 3rd. The 15 miles per gallon is silly stupid right now.
Made sure to test Liberty on a dirt motorcross area for a good 30 minutes as well as up and down mtn passes for 40 miles. Much better response than Laredo all the way around. Learned the hard way I guess... Picking Liberty up tomorrow. Whoo hooo, it's an early Christmas.