Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options

Jeep Liberty Diesel

1…111112114116117…224

Comments

  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Hi farout,
    Good to hear there is something going on about replacement of the defective hoses. The oil I use is SAE 5W-40 Rotella made for/by Shell. I strongly believe we all share the same oil bases since major oil companies are implanted worldwide.
    Concerning cracked engine cylinder sleeves or castings, this was true 35 years ago in the glorious days of Castrol HD-W40 castor-oil :blush:
    I think the risk of using 0W-40 is to loose the oil film in areas where gravity applies. Some engines had oil retention pockets in the past. I'm not shure this is the case today.
  • mike6206mike6206 Member Posts: 35
    Thanks. I was wondering because the place I've been getting fuel is in Garrett County, MD and I work in Frostburg, MD, just across the Garrett-Allegany Co. line. If you've driven across I-68 and know the hills on it, they'll put the test to the CRD. I'll have to re-think my using the Mobil Delvac 1 and maybe see about the other oils.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    elecauto,
    The 2.5L CRD did not have the emissions control system. I have a 2003 2.8L CRD that doesn't have this feature and only uses 10 OBDII codes out of 33 like the recent vehicles (numbers came from the dealership).
    You can disconnect the vacuum line going to your egr valve and your ECU will not see it. This will also stop the black smoke coming out of your tailpipe. It's quite simple to remove your egr valve and clean it. It's fixed by two 13mm nuts onto the top of the exhaust manifold and two more 13mm nuts to the 'concentric' water cooler (on mine).
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    Here is your address:
    http://www.tweddle.com/techinfo-europubs/

    I didn't buy from them, 250USD for a CD is plain madness :lemon:
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    Caribou,
    Are you saying that you can disconnect the EGR by disconnecting the vacum hose and the car will not notice? If so, will it impact performance positively or negatively? Can anyone else out there support this? If this is true then it sounds like the answer to the EGR problem.

    Then again, maybe I misunderstood. Sounds too simple to me.
    :confuse:
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    That's what I read into it. Hope so.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    nescosmo: My CRD was built 06/14/05 and it only has 1 Map sensor. The tec said the hose came with the screw type of clamps, and as you have said he had not seen one like this either. Perhaps they ran out of the regular hose and used a sub hose and clamps. I will never know, and as long as it does not act like a sponge soaking it up on the outside that's good. I do notice the pick up is much better, I can spin the tires and put down about 20 feet of rubber. As soon as I heard that squeal of the tires I reminded myself that I was the one paying for the tires. When I was a teenager dad bought my tires until I started working at age 17. Then I drove gingerly and very carefully.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    jkinzel: I believe it takes a certian amount of (units CDR's) to make the cost worth producing. Perhaps at the rate they were sold was not enough to make it worth their while. My dealer sells 3 a month, and has 6 to choose from. There a good number of dealers in Missouri that have not even bought a single one, and will not service a CRD. I have seen several dealers in Missouri that still have a few 2005 left and not just Sports. There is one major dealer (Yark, in Toledo, Ohio) that usually have 15 to 20 CRD's and has now less than 8 in inventory. The time to have an order in is passed, and perhaps what they have might just finish the CRD's off.
    I really like having a special unique Jeep, but I am really anoid that we were and are a test market, and we paid a price to be a test market. I think DCX owes us a rebate or something to use as a down payment on our next DCX vehicle. Are you old enough to remember the Chevy Vaga, or the Ford Pinto? There were others also I just can't remember them just now, but a discount to be used on the next vehicle was given out to compensate for the problems. I feel if enough CRD owners started barking it just might happen to us, maybe, perhaps, at least I think they should.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    Caribou1: Thanks for responding! I am really surprised that what they put on as a replacement is a lot better than what was on there. I added a quart of 5-40 Rotella when the engine was down a quart. I am not sure how it mixes, the oil test did not seen to be effected by it. It seems odd to have an engine that so many have so much to say about it. If DCX wants us to use 0-40 then why is it so hard to find? seems to me they would be better off to select a grade we can get easily, and is available.

    Farout
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Remember, stealerships are in the business to MAKE money. They do this by their service dept. and by selling you and I a new one later on. I am not surprised that DCX doesn't tell the whole story. They are businessmen. Your missing oil when up in smoke, rather vapors. Mine is one half quart low on the dip stick, but it right on by the 6.4 qt. refill with a new filter. If I fill it up on the line of the stick, the oil will go down to the mark, and NO further. It will stay there for 5000 miles. Maybe the engine is trying to tell me something. If I get too full, I puke it out. So does the CRD.
  • farmer52farmer52 Member Posts: 61
    nescosmo...The new oil (CJ-4) is being driven by Diesel Particulate Filters (DPF) required on all 2007 medium and heavy duty Diesel engines. DPF are also the reason ULSD is being required. CI-4 Plus will be available for several years. Look for CI-4 Plus oil to be discontinued closer to 2010. Actually CJ-4 appears to be a better oil than CI-4 and the price will reflect that improvement ($1-$3 more a gallon).

    As for ULSD, I do not see any advantages in using ULSD other than extended oil life (less corrosive) and higher cetane. ULSD will have less BTUs (=lower fuel mileage) and cost a few cents more per gallon.
  • dzlmysterdzlmyster Member Posts: 15
    bvcrd, you are dead on. On my first oil change I added oil to the mark...more than the 6.4 recommended. It came down over a relatively short period to what I think will be the real level. This will be the level to fill to in future. Many engines especially marine units, recommend not marking the stick until the recommended amount of lub is installed (including filter). Run the engine and then let it sit to allow the oil to drain back, then scribe a mark on the dipstick where the level comes to.

    Regards

    Dzlmyster
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Is this the oil that is ending up in our intercooler hoses? I will measure the next oil change and note the level on the dipstick as you suggest.
  • bvcrdbvcrd Member Posts: 196
    Same oil, just after it has vaporized. When you do an oil change, just put in 6.4 qts with a new filter. Measure exactly. Run it, let it sit for at least 5 minutes, then check the level. That is where the max mark is suposed to be.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    new2diesel,
    Yes in my case, no in yours. My engine is the prototype of yours and I don't have lambda sensors or air-massflow metering. My egr valve is located on the exhaust side of the engine and the vacuum line that drives it is used for setting the vriable pitch vanes of the turbo on yours. I have a fixed turbo.
    By getting rid of my egr valve all my shifting hesitations went away and mileage is back to normal, like when the truck was new. But, there is a but, there are variations in the low sulfur diesel I buy here. I usually get between 20 and 25 mpg driving in the same region, same traffic, and I can't yet explain what is making so much difference.
    Friends of mine have TDIs, DCIs, HDIs and I also own an older type of diesel. I seem to be more subject to mileage variation, but again, the ECU in our Jeeps works differently than others. Our ECU tries to regulate the fuel in such a way that for a given sollicitation it "must" meet a given performance and thus injects more fuel than it should. This may be the factor that makes bad fuel even worse when compared to the factory 'achievement' that is memorised in the computer's map.
    It's like running the 100 yards when you're 20 and having to do the same when you're 60 just because you are still the same person. It doesn't always work :sick:
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    Yesterday I went to clean my hoses and when I took the hose of the EGR valve I took a rag with mineral spirits and clean the inside of my EGR,(witch was clean)but I notice that it was only a flapper. I move it up and down (close and open), call the wife and ask her to open the ignition switch and the valve was open it activate but still open then when she shot off the switch the flap close and open again. My ? is the EGR control the air intake to the engine as the flapper of a carburetor or close the air to shut off the engine. If it like a carb then why when I went to the dealer the dealer replace my EGR valve for the mere issue of been stock open. Would be to our advantage if the EGR valve is stock open or the EGR valve have another chamber behind the flapper that it control too. What is the scoop....... :cry:
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    I use B20 one out of every three or four tanks and have had no EGR problems. I have about 4000 miles now. The CRD runs noticeably quieter and smoother on B20. I have had only one oil change, at the dealer using Mobil 1 5W40 oil. I don't intend to use anything thicker than 5W40.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    farmer52: How is your CRD running now? Hope things are doing better. However telling us diesel will cost more sometime soon did not make my day. I would love to hear of something on these CRD's going down in cost, other than their value.

    Farout
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    zachinmi:At 4000 miles your not even broke in yet. I have struggled with what weight oil and should I even use Bio fuel if it were here to use. I will not use Bio higher than 5. When Bosh, and all the other makers that have parts in this CRD say they will not stand by heir warranty if higher than B-5 is used, it's not worth the risk for me. Eventually an injector of pump will go, as I see it, and I want DCX to eat it not me. On oil I still am debating on Shell Rotella 4-40w. I just need to see if I can find a place that keeps 0-40W in stock. I am frustrated that the Mobil 1 0-40 is very hard to get except at the dealer, that stinks.
    If this CRD was going to be used any longer I would not be as reluctant to try different things. But because we were only a test market for DCX, I expect warranty issues to become SOP for DCX to question anything that goes wrong with the CRD. I also expect to see DCX contact the first time buyers of these CRD's and make some kind of offer as a discount on buying a new DCX vehicle. I am really burnt to a crisp that I was used as test without my knowledge! The more I talk with a few others who bought this CRD they too are feeling the same way. Time will tell, if DCX will own up to this false marketing. I hope so.

    Farout
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    Mobil 1 5W40 diesel oil is gone off the Walmart shelves in my area. Not for lack of demand, they have not been able to keep it on the shelf. The spots where it belongs are now gone. I picked up 2 gal of Rotella synthetic 5W40 diesel for the next oil change. I used Rotella for the first oil change with no problems and I don't drive hard enough to need super oil.
  • faroutfarout Member Posts: 1,609
    siberia: The local 4 Walley's World's have eliminated Mobil 1 Syn. oils in the quart, except for regular oil. Only Shell Rotella 5-40 was in the quart. Shell was very reasonable at $3.92 a quart. Most syn. oil is $5 to $7 so the price is right. They did not have the gal. size except for 15-30 if I remember right.
    I read that the new VW bug Diesel is being used as a rental car at LA airport. They have a slug of them and they meet the 207 emissions standards.
    I think DCX is missing the boat big time by not having a Liberty that will pass the emission standards for 2007.
    By what the tec's say about the best thing to use for oil is the 0-40 and if that's true, than maybe we do need super oil......hope not.

    Farout
  • dirtmoverdirtmover Member Posts: 14
    I just got a new CRD last week. I notice that the passenger airbag disabled light is on even when the passenger seat is empty. According to the manual the light should NOT be on in this scenario. I took it back to the dealer to get it fixed and they are insisting that the light should indeed be on and the documentation is incorrect :confuse: So does anyone else have this light on with an empty passenger seat.
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    Farout,
    I agree with many of your feelings. Let me first say that I'm conscious of the warranty issues with B20, but having read up on biodiesel I believe that any problem caused by B20 will be due to a defect in its refining, not an inherent problem. The local oil companies that sell B20 are good, local companies in farming areas, selling mostly to long-time customers and I expect they will stand up if they sell bad fuel. Having said that, I'm not encouraging anyone to use higher than B5, only saying it works well in my CRD.

    I have not seen the 0W40 anywhere except one single online store I found using Froogle. The only safe oil I can find in stores is Rotella-T 5W40. I consider this fair game as it is effectively identical to Mobil 1 5W40, which is listed in the owner's manual as OK.

    I too am concerned about DCX support and potential issues down the line. I wonder whether I will have EGR valve problems at some point, reading everything on here. I also want the shudder to go away forever. I am generally very happy with my CRD but already debating whether to drop it while it's still in great shape and get something better supported, such as a diesel or gas pickup, instead.
  • zachinmizachinmi Member Posts: 228
    The passenger airbag light in my CRD is:

    OFF with no weight on passenger seat

    ON with approximately 10lbs or more on passenger seat (my briefcase when it's full)

    OFF with an adult in the passenger seat (the lightest adult I've had in that seat is about 150lbs, so I don't know the cutoff weight)
  • twocycle2twocycle2 Member Posts: 55
    my light comes on at start-up, like the other dash lights, but then goes off whether I have a passenger in it or not
    Twocycle2
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Today I changed out the oil I have been using since late October 2005. I had Amsoil 5W-40 in the crankcase but it was the older version that was CI-4+ rated.

    Today, I put Amsoil Synthetic 15W-40 into the crankcase. It specs out very closely to Mobil 1 5W-40 oil. The Amsoil has a slightly lower cold pour point and the Noack vaporization rate is 50% less than the Mobil 5W-40.

    How does it run? Nicely. The engine is quieter and smoother at idle and the turbo spools up quite quickly thank you, and with a little less lag than before. Wish I had a real oil pressure gauge to see if there is any difference in the reading.

    I will be traveling to NYC and New England in early June so I will let you know how this oil impacts on my fuel economy.
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    I wasn't thinking of Amsoil when I mentioned super oil, although Amsoil actually is. I was referring to Mobil Super Syn. If it gets to the point where I cannot find cheap Rotella synthetic anymore, then I will go with Amsoil. I am starting to develop a dislike for the Exxon Mobil Corp, anyway.
  • ryoungetryounget Member Posts: 9
    I have replaced my muffler with a straight pipe, noise level is acceptable. I also installed a k&n air filter.
    Mileage before mods w/5k boat in tow 15hwy now 16. w/o tow was 26-28hwy now getting 30-32 at 60mph, before 23-24 now 26-27 at 70mph.
  • caribou1caribou1 Member Posts: 1,354
    nescosmo, the flap you cleaned is not the egr valve. This flap is used for two purposes:

    - Balance the fresh air with the exhaust to limit the oxygen content before and after your catalyser measured by the lambda sensors. Post injection is used here not to bring more power to the piston but just to keep the catalyser at the proper working temperature. This is why there are two sensors. The second sensor after the catalyser tells the ECU that the corrective action (post injection) was sufficient or not.

    - Protect the engine from burning it's own oil in case of a turbo bearing failure (leak) by closing the duct. The ECU always expects a maximum rpm value and will close the flap in case of overrun.

    - Bonus is to stop the engine in a more pleasant way, but it was not put there to do so.

    This thing really has a brain :)
  • texcrdtexcrd Member Posts: 17
    My dealer tells me that we have a "smart" monitoring system designed to disable the air bag (with the warning light to inform us) anytime the seat does not have an occupant or if the seat's occupant is not an adult of sufficient size/weight to allow the airbag to deploy without risk to the person in the seat. It should also come on, indicating the disabled air bag, if the seat's occupant is "out of position" and likely would be injured if the air bag deployed. This "smart system" is supposed to be required by federal law on all '07 cars, according to the dealer. Mine seems to work this way. :P

    Tom.
  • farmer52farmer52 Member Posts: 61
    Farout...Yes, things just seem to get more expensive. The articles I read say from a few to 10 cents a gallon more for ULSD. I think the price difference will diminish as more of it gets into the system. As for CJ-4, I plan to buy all the CI-4 oil I can.

    Just turned 3000 "troublefree" miles on my CRD. I thank the man upstairs each day after reading all the posts on here. :)
    I am contemplating when to change my oil the second time. First time was at 500 miles. Currenly running Rotella T 15W-40 and have not used any oil in 2500 miles. I am going to run one more change with Rotella T 15W-40 then switch to Rotella T Synthetic 5W-40. I am curious if fuel mileage will improve with synthetic oil. Current fuel mileage is 27-28 mpg highway (corrected). I did find out my speedometer is reading about 3 mph fast and the odometer is reading about 6% low. At least the errors are good for preventing speeding tickets and keeping the miles low on my CRD. ;)
  • siberiasiberia Member Posts: 520
    2 weeks still cunking and took it in - they had to tighten the motor mount.

    Finally got around to checking motor mounts for tightness. Yup! I tightened the left upper motor mount nut and the clunk is gone.

    Thanks Europasusan.
  • nescosmonescosmo Member Posts: 453
    I just read in another forum that VW and MB will not sell diesel car for 2007, because the epa regulations. I think that the epa have a thing against diesel, maybe the ethanol people have them under control.
  • texcrdtexcrd Member Posts: 17
    I need to clarify my previous post. The passenger airbag light on my '06 only omes on for a few seconds when I start up. It will not come on while I am driving with an adult sitting in the seat unless they move "out of position", i.e. leaning forward excessively, or like zachinmi's brefcase (post #5853 by zachinmi). I guess the important thing is that if the light remains on when the seat is occupied, there is no airbag protection for the passenger. Sorry for my incomplete contribution earlier!
    Tom.
  • towwmetowwme Member Posts: 52
    Place a gallon of milk on the seat and it will stay on.
  • dogmeat2dogmeat2 Member Posts: 2
    I've found that my odometer is also reading low (a 182 mile trip that Ive made many times in other vechicles now is about 171 miles in my CRD). Is there a way to correct this?
  • hellodieselhellodiesel Member Posts: 10
    Well, I have 18,500 miles on my Libby now, and have had the EGR replaced, and now the torque converter finally destroyed itself. I got bad shudder, and stalling at stops. Then the Transmission Temp light. Oh what fun. The dealer replaced the cooler, both filters, the pump, the torque converter, and the #2 thrust bearing. Anyone know if this revised torque converter will hold up?
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Mine went with a bang @ 22800. I now have 37300 and it works much better. Time will tell.
  • new2dieselnew2diesel Member Posts: 148
    Reading one of the other posts prompted me to think. How many out there have had no problems with your CRD's? Please list mileage and build date if you know it.

    I'll go first
    05 Sport 16k, no trouble so far! Build date July 05

    I hope there are alot of us out there! :D
  • jpgillamjpgillam Member Posts: 1
    Our Toyota Previa van needs beaucoup repairs and only gets 20 miles to the gallon of gas. I'm wondering if diesel could reduce my cost per mile. We live in southern New Hampshire, where we do a lot of driving on gravel roads and highways with 40 mph limits. Not urban, in other words, but not exactly long-haul trucking, either.

    Trouble is, I only have about $6,000 to spend. What used vehicle could I buy that seats at least five, can tow a 2,000-pound GVWR trailer and may come that cheap? Suggestions welcome, and thanks.
  • ampmanampman Member Posts: 6
    Not to the torque converter yet but have had 2 EGR's within 4000 miles. Have not had the shutter and both filters have been upgraded with a TSB. Also have had the ECU/TCM reflash. I'm concerned about how DCX will handle future warranty issues regarding Tranny and engine issue during the 7/70 warranty. Those of us who bought these not knowing that we were a test market need to make our issues known good or bad at one site and need to inform anyone we come in contact with who has this vehicle and are not aware of these forums. Our numbers are not large so we need to make our voices heard.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    Except for a TSB/software flash and a new hose from the turbo to the aftercooler, it hs been flawless.
  • winter2winter2 Member Posts: 1,801
    I am curious. All of you who have had torque converter failures, what is the MY of your CRDs?
  • jimhemijimhemi Member Posts: 223
    I'm looking at purchasing a bug shield for my Liberty Sport. Does anyone else have one? If so what make and model? Also, do they work? I know with some of the boxier pickup trucks they worked. They had blunt noses, but ours are just a bit rounder. Thanks
  • texcrdtexcrd Member Posts: 17
    '06 Limited built 10/05, purchased 2/7/06, now has 2,200 miles. No problems other than a dashboard trim squeek. Also have normal brake noise when backing up "cold". This is not a CRD problem - I can live with it. Still wonder if TSB 18-08-006 would enhance reliability. I'm almost inclined to wait, because everything works!

    Tom.
  • chuggachugga Member Posts: 11
    05 Limited 19K miles . Build date May 05 . One minor problem keeping me off your list . At -6 degrees fahrenheit the tranny cooler line leaked when it first started up. Other than that it's been great . Last fill-up yielded 28.29 MPG . ( 29.1 indicated on EVIC )
  • mdamickmdamick Member Posts: 277
    Build 02/05 Sport. Have not had the latest TSB and I don't have issues with the transmission. Still have original EGR.
  • farmer52farmer52 Member Posts: 61
    2006 Limited 3K, no trouble so far! Build date March 2006.
  • farmer52farmer52 Member Posts: 61
    I purchased the authentic Jeep hood protector ($79). It matches the contour of the hood and headlights. As for working, I still get bugs on the windshield but I bought it to help protect the front edge of the hood. The only negative is you have to drill a few holes in the bottom side of the hood.
  • stbstb Member Posts: 31
    May '05, only problem was trans sensor cable burned thru from tuching exhuast, factory forgot to tie it down. Caused check engine light to come on and wouldn't shift into top gear. Dealer replaced harness.
    Also no matter how I drive it, highway or around town, only get 20 to 22 mpg. See some on this forum getting higher, 27-29???
    Now have 12,200 miles, changed oil at 3,600 and 11,989, Rotella 5-40.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles