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We want to wish everyone a very happy and Safe Fourth of July.
Had to turn in the T&C [five day dcx limit (even with extended warranty) is over]. Better half picked me up after work with our Malibu LT. The poor crd is left up on the rack waiting.
Happy 4th. That is a good term....on the rack. My CRD will be spending the 4th on the rack also. No 4 wheeling on the beach this weekend....or last weekend...or the weekend before that....and on and on. Week 6 CRD held hostage. My new Chrysler sample loaner is a Liberty gasser 2WD. 300 miles and no check engine light.
I have finally joined the annoited crowd of CRD owners who have to have their EGR valve replaced. Got the news yesterday that after two days of trouble shooting the valve is bad and they are putting it on special order. They claim a new one should be here in three days (I will not hold my breath!). I wish all the dc diesel tech's would read this forum on a regular basis, it would cut down on diagnostic time. It seems like the STAR tech's would already know what to tell them when they call in scratching their heads over what the MIL means and what needs to be replaced. It's pretty much a "no-brainer." As far as the torque converter TSB is concerned, they say that it will only be done if problems with the vehicle indicate the service is necessary. Still loving the CRD - would not trade it for anything else at this time. Everyone take care and have a safe and fun 4th.
MY 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited gets 31 to 32 mpg cruising on the highways at between 55 mph and 65mph in Pa without the AC on, and 27 to 29 mpg in Florida cruising the highways at between 70 and 75 mph w/ the AC on (72 mph at 2000 rpm). Combined city/highway is in the range of 24 to 27 mpg...worst I've had was 22.5 mpg when wife used it for a week while her 2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon was in for repairs doing all city driving...the Wrangler Rubicon only gets 13 to 14 mpg in her daily driving routine.
Problems to date:
*Repace Steering Clock Sensor Spring under recall for ESP system *Pinion Seal Leak...Replaced seal under warranty. *Test and replace Optima Battery under recall. *Reflash Body Control Module
I have 15k miles on the Jeep Liberty CRD that I bought in February '06...yes I drive it often on long trips, Build Date 08/05. Use Castrol Syntec 5w-50 with Purolator PureOne PL25230 at 6k mile intervals. Put a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank at every fill up. Will be switching to Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 or Shell ROTELLA T Synthetic 5W-40 at next oil change.
I did ask about grandpa's marvel mystery oil some time back. It is a great solvent and reminds me of the old gm top lube product, even though those car brothers dismiss the product.
I'm looking for a cargo liner that covers the entire back with the rear seats folded down. It needs to be deep enough to trap some water and a front wall to protect the front seat backs. I just got a new 2005 Limited CRD pretty well loaded for what I thought was a good price of $24,300 out the door with the 7/70,000 Powertrain warranty. The sticker was $32,485. I wanted the CRD because all our other work vehicles are diesels and I need to carry a few boxes. Some are iced so I need to catch dirt and water. Any leads are appreciated.
Thanks for those who responded to my question about purchasing a CRD. I was a really loaded one, and I did a very low-ball offer and they didn't accept the offer. I figured if I got a great deal, I won't feel bad if it is in the shop. Also, wife has now changed desired color from, Red to Green, after Blue, and Khaki was in there somewhere, and she was not to thrilled with how the CRD started from a stop. I know, its a diesel thing. Again, I want to thank those who responded.
So, we are now looking at a Gasser. You call can take pity on me when you drive by with the 25+ MPG. I can dream.
Marvel Mystery Oil was introduced in 1923 and came in orange and black quart-sized cans. The label proclaimed, "combats internal motor rust and corrosion, lubricates valves, piston rings, upper cylinder walls, and eliminates valve sticking. Keeps rings free and reduces piston and cylinder wear. Also keeps fuel pump and carburetor parts clean, eliminating the need for frequent adjusting. Marvel Mystery Oil retards formation of power dissipating motor deposits, such as gums, varnish, and sludge. There is apparent validity to that claim. This antiquated product has a loyal following among aircraft mechanics and tractor owners today. What makes this stuff work? The MSD sheets list ,DISTILLATES, SOLVENT-DEWAXED HEAVY NAPHTHENIC HYDROCARBONS and other such vague ingredients but it's what is not listed that is the real "secret"...OIL OF WINTERGREEN!
It is very hard to believe claims of 30 mpg when the majority of owners are getting 22. Where can I buy that calculator that figures the high mpg? It must round to the nearest 30!!! At the very least it will make me feel better to log in 30 mpg although I will be paying for 22 mpg.
What part of PA are you in. I'm in Chester County. I like the Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5W-40 but the Rotella is less expensive. I'm getting a consistant 26 MPG's using Sunoco. I did use a couple of tanks of ULSD but the MPG's did not change. If I keep it at 55 to 65 MPH on long trips then I get 30.
My 2006 Jeep Liberty Limited has a trip computer that gives the Avg. MPG. I have checked it doing calculations at fill ups, and it is right on. Fill up your vehicle jump on the highway, set the cruise control to 60/65 mph drive 60 miles down and 60 miles back and fill up the tank...then do the calculations...if you do not get better then 29 mpg without the AC running, you have something wrong with your CRD. You should get between 27 and 29 with the AC running. At 55 MPH you should see over 30 without the AC.
If you would like, I will video the Trip Computer and mail it to you so you can see for yourself that it is real!
Diesels work best with a light throtle foot. They love to operate just under the peak in the torque band, which is in the 60 to 65 mph zone in the Jeep Liberty CRD.
I can get 20 to 22 mpg in my 2005 F350 SRW Short Bed King Ranch Crew Cab 4x4 with the 6.0 Power stroke if I keep it under 65 mph. Once the turbo kicks in above 65 mph on the highway the fuel ecomnomy drops. It has 3.73 rears.
I believe alot of it has to do with driving styles...alot of the posters on here are used to driving gassers...getting the most efficiency from a diesel takes a different driving style and mentality...Life's Short...Take The Scenic Route and Drive Within The Torque Band! :P
Read my post again...what happened when my wife drove the vehicle for a week? It's all about driving style!
MY 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited gets 31 to 32 mpg cruising on the highways at between 55 mph and 65mph in Pa without the AC on, and 27 to 29 mpg in Florida cruising the highways at between 70 and 75 mph w/ the AC on (72 mph at 2000 rpm). Combined city/highway is in the range of 24 to 27 mpg...worst I've had was 22.5 mpg when wife used it for a week while her 2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon was in for repairs doing all city driving...the Wrangler Rubicon only gets 13 to 14 mpg in her daily driving routine.
I am confused now. Supposedly ULSD diesel cannot be used in no-ULSD vehicles, and viceversa. How come you used a couple of tanks of ULSD in your 2006 model? Does that means I can use non-ULSD in a 2008 model? Reply appreciated...
Two days ago, my wife saw a commercial on the tube and it mentioned the Liberty diesel. I did not see the commercial.
Last night, I heard the ad on the radio. As I recall, it was done by the German CEO of DCX and touched on what DCX was doing for the environment. He mentioned the Liberty diesel and several other diesels that will be coming here in the fall and in the spring. If I hear it again or see it, I will add more information.
I agree with you about driving style. A light right foot works best with this engine.
Diesels in general require different style of driving as maximum torque arrives much sooner than with a gasser. Those posters who are getting low FE are probably driving their CRDs like gassers.
Diesel Farmer from Pennsylvania and not a young kid. I wish that you would have posted like this long ago. What's old is new again. First diesel and after accepting 5w20, I gave more credit to dcx engineering than they deserved.
I used 0w40 too long. Did you warn us last year during oil wars and I forgot? I went with new stuff as a fuel additive. If you've been reading then you remember my not additives again tired old dave post.
I came across my very old little couple ounce can with nozzle in the garage some time back and said - what the heck. Used redline/valvoline syn additives. Bought a new bottle of mmo because of the modern combustion chamber and ethanol etc. The malibu 3.5 v6 just purrs and now it smoothly purrs and better half noticed and asked why with ethanol is ours running so smoothly. Just put some in the diesel, if that is what we get when we buy diesel here.
Found the aircraft engine info on the net weeks ago after the google. And I have bottles of oil of wintergreen that I bought years ago before I found out it wasn't a superficial thing and it wouldn't help but only make the t-shirt smell.
I have set the cruise control at 65- 67 for a extended trip a few times, all highway, and never had over 23 mpg not towing. Knowing diesels and driving style has no impact.
I have all diesels now, a 95 Ford 7.3 auto crew cab DRW with 187,000 plus miles, ii- 12 mpg towing 9,000 lb gooseneck and a 2006 6.6 Kodiak 5500 motor home with 9,000 plus miles, 7-8 towing 12,500 lb two car tag stacker.
My CRD had only two problems, one with trans wire harness burnt from exhaust and the other a glow plug with timing module. It has 13,000 miles and gets no lower than 19 mpg and no higher than 23 usually 22 mpg.
Power is good and the engine runs smooth. Trans shifts right with 5th gear at around 52 mph and lockup dropping about 600 rpm at around 59.I use Shell 5-40. I have the Sport so I don't have the trip computer, I calculate the old fashion way.
There are 2 clips on the front that you pull up to unlatch, then just pull up the front top and pull forward to release the 3 male tabs that fit into the 3 female slots on the rear of the air cleaner box. I like to take the shop vac and vacuum out the box when I change the filter as debris and sand accumulate in the bottom of the air cleaner box.
If you have been following these posts for over a year, you remember my post of a trip from DFW to OKC in the middle of a cool night on cruise control at 65 and got 22 mpg also. Return trip on OK conoco was a climb to 27 not on cruise and following the herd (why not keep up with the herd-22mpg on cruise-it didn't matter). Watching it climb was a present surprise.
I believe that was after the goodyear removal but before aero-turbine and airbox mod with thinner air filter. I do not overpressure the tires. Only on good diesel can we get the evic to climb to 27-28 (evic good enough-tired of calculated disappointments). Stopped at a shell recently and watched my around town drop to just above 18mpg. Back to the walmart pump run by murphy and back up above 20 around town before now sitting in the shop.
Was 0w40 good enough for our bearings etc and is some of it the 5w50 oil used for break-in.
I got the best mileage from Murphy Oil, WalMart Diesel, 24.03 around local driving. I also got some MFA B-5, and the engine clatters more and does not to be lasting as long. I bought the B-5 only because it was the only diesel on the side of town I could get diesel. I hope to avoid this again if I can.
Also you can now ask DCX questions by going to askDr.Z.com. I asked his what he was going to do for all us "test market" people who feel DCX let us down. I bet Dr. Z don't answer......anyone care to bet? Here Diesel is $2.899 gas is $2.839 holidays are great for the fuel stations.
I've talked to a friend working for SEPTA at the Southern District in Philly. They have been using USLD for the past few years at this bus depot. Do a google search and put in SEPTA southern district USLD to read when they started using USLD. Since going to ULSD their EGR and Turbo failures on the series 50 detriots they operate have drop drastically. The cat converters are not clogging and the buses have much less smoke from their exhaust. I am confident come Oct 15 that much of our egr related problems will disappear.
Dave, I share the same experience with different fuel stations and different temperatures as well. I believe our specific ECU (engine) combined with the PCM (transmission) are causing this because other manufacturers don't have such variations. I've never heard of diesel Nissan, Toyota, Suzuki or Mitsubishi 4x4 owners complain about this instability :confuse: All I know is that my colleagues are getting even mileage practically all year round depending upon traffic conditions. The youngest I refer to has been doing the same travel for more than 10 years already! Could it be that our engine + transmission are not well matched to control fuel consumption when the converter is open compared to what the other manufacturers do?
People talk about the "day" a car was built. Seems like no one likes to buy a car built on a Friday, etc. But, looking at the door sticker of my 06 CRD I find that it only says built 2/06. I am assuming that means February of this year. Where do I look to find the actual date - or am I misreading what I have and it was actually built on Feb. 6th? thanks, PrairieGirl
Converter open? It is a possibility that the early owners have a clogged converter from oil and excess fuel delivery before the reflash. Not known for sure but my tranny solution given to my dealer is going to be a new valve body-I am not an engineer-but my guess was the tc and clutches.
We are going to test drive trailblazer/tahoe/await new hyundai seen here at edmunds. In our minds this crd is history but we have never taken two hits on a new vehicle.
Dr. Z can keep making his commercials, his car failed the side impact and Impala passed.
tired dave... After the ULSD set itself in, our CRD is going to be the best diesel 2.8 ever build; Peaple will beg for it. When I drive my CRD to my mother in law every sunday I set the c. control to about 64 mph, reset the over head reader and we go; Always it read about 22 mph with the a/c on. last week I order a CM filter that cost me about $160.00 with a few replacement cartrages. I install it saturday and on sunday I went to my mother in law. well the computer read 28 mph all the way. The CM filter said that the flow of oil to the engine is very high, I notice tha the engine run much looser maybe oil flow is better. well I want you guy to know what happen to my CRD. welcome all comments.....Happy forth.......
If your cat converter clogged up or becomes restricted you will notice your base idle a bit high and oil temperature and exhaust temperature to increase. You could put a tap at the exhaust just before the converter to measure the back pressure to varify a restricted cat converter before you remove it to clean it out. Most cats can be cleaned by blowing shop air through the cat in the reverse direction of normal exhaust flow. I would install a oil temp sensor and gauge to my vehicle if I suspected this problem. The CRD owners with the oil in the air cooler tubes may have this problem and it also causes poor fuel economy.
Dr. Z can keep making his commercials, his car failed the side impact and Impala passed.
Remove the side impact air bags and see how the Impala does in the tests. As far as I know DCX does offer side impact bags as an option, that should be a standard feature IMO. Add those side impact bags and re-run the tests, those DC cars will pass with flying colors. Cars that did not have side impact bags fared worse than those that did.
As to running with GM, I would be careful. The Trailblazer has a "rubber" frame and flexes more than the Liberty or GC. The Tahoe is a proven design with totally numb steering and is a "pig" at the pump in spite of the cylinder deactivation feature.
tired old dave: My daughter and son-inlaw have a trail blazer, and the repair had been outrageous! Dave, go slow, and get something that has everything you want, including good fuel mileage. With my luck I would pick a lemon no matter what kind of vehicle it was! Good luck Dave & Mrs. Dave. I would never refer to her as tired or old, and I would'ny either if I were you.
We will take everyone's advice about the generals product very seriously and with respect.
Thank you very much Grubbs Jeep in Bedford, Texas. Just got the crd back. Repeating an observation posted somewhere else, with new ball joints the crd is now level again and not nosedown. Got new shocks for the coil over shock (strut to some) not at our expense. Got a new tcm but can't report on any results yet. Paid for my request to have the tranny filters and fluid changed.
Talked to the mechanic about why he wouldn't let me drive the crd until the lbj's come in and he was shocked after testing them. The look on his face turned serious. He said his wife drives a liberty and has mileage and that is his first thing to check at home. I reminded him that these fail at ~ 10 mph, turning, braking. Usually people report - just turned into my parking space at school after a 300 mile trip, wife just backed out of the driveway etc.
To date my overall average (calculated) fuel economy is 19.5 mpg. I have had one tank where my fuel economy exceeded 30 mpg. The trip computer tends to be optimistic, on average it is approximately 15% high (better) when compared to my manual calculations.
On the highway I usually get around 25 mpg, in the city the best I get is 18 mpg, typically it is closer to 15 mpg.
"If your cat converter clogged up or becomes restricted..." "The CRD owners with the oil in the air cooler tubes may have this problem and it also causes poor fuel economy."
I foolishly used the dcx mobil 1 0w40. At 18k miles before moving up to 5w40, I removed my ccv and found only one spot possibly the result of one drop of sooty oil in the sump part of the ccv. I always thought that maybe the drain hole wasn't completely through the head and therefore no liquid was going back into the head.
Tonight, I removed the ccv again to check the depth of the hole in the sump. What I found was an oily hole, not soot covered, but the o-rings were covered in sooty oil and the plastic .065 trimmer line went down at least two inches. Heavier the oil the better the ccv works (or less volatile the oil).
Has anyone who moved from 0w40 to 5w40 to 15w40 ever checked the efficiency of the ccv. I try to believe someone's observation and/or assertions. I will also believe that vm said to use 5w40 and 10w40.
Diesel Farmer, before you go to thinner oil would you please examine your ccv and ccv sump and the cleanliness of your cac hoses and tell us. Can we assume that you have the original tires and working ccv and no mods?
New to the diesel world. Got a new 2005 CRD a few weeks ago. Just wondering has anyone tried additive's in their oil? I have been using Slick 50 for years in gas engines and transmissions with really good luck. For instance I have a full size 97 GMC conversion van with a 350 fuel injected v-8, with the ground effect package I bought new. If I change the oil in it before going a long highway trip and slick 50 it I can get between 24 to 25 MPG. Anyway, just wondering if anyone does this with the CRD. So far about 2000 miles on it and it runs fine. No hard shifting, smooth, fuel milage average around (live in a more rural area outside of a small town) 24 mpg with the B-5 bio-diesel. Just wish I would not bump my head everytime I get in and out on the roof support.
I just bought a 2006 Liberty CRD and want to use biodiesel. After reading the owner's manual, it looks like I need to stick with B5 or less, at least while the Jeep is under warranty, since that is the highest mixture that the DC "certifies." There aren't any stations nearby that sell pre-blended B5, but there is one that sells B99. I downloaded the DOE pamphlet on Biodiesel Handling and Uses Guidelines, and they describe the process of "splash blending" B99 with #2 diesel in your tank. In the Liberty, with a 20+ gallon tank, this would mean putting 1 gallon of B99 in the tank, and then filling up with petrodiesel. Has anyone had experience with this, and if so, any problems?
on july 19th I pulled a 6x10 u haul from fayetteville nc to east haven connexticut via I95 average 65mph and i got 25mpg with the crd..on the way back we dropped the trailer off and drove home via interstate 84 to 81 to hwy 17 and back to I95...we took the mountain scenic route we average over 34mpg..drover for about 9.5 hrs before we had to refuel..I set the cruise on 75mph..WoW hat fuel milage..the trip was 795 miles one way..thanks CRD
Would you be willing to do an auto autopsy? Maybe edmunds, 20-20, dateline, 60 minutes, motorweek, automobile magazine, or even dcx could do an autopsy and find out what is working on yours and then we would all be very happy.
Just met a mature female texas driver who's personal one-time best is 25mpg. The crd is 26 or 27 highway mpg rated. Good diesel and opened up exhaust can give 30mpg. Overinflating the ST balloon tires can get one over 30 on cruise and driving the diesel.
I am really serious. Are you using 0w40 mobil 1? Is your ccv factory? Are you playing by all the rules. If yes, so much the better for an auto autopsy. Please contact jeep engineering or email Dr. Z. and offer up your good crd in a sacrifice for the rest of us.
I will be posting more detail in a day or two, but I just completed a 3700 mile trip in the CRD. Most tanks were 24-26 mpg in mostly freeway driving, but one single tank was 30.7mpg. The difference is that tank was entirely 55-65mph driving on lightly traveled two lane highways in northern Wisconsin and Michigan's UP. I'm aware that I might not have had the tank 100% full and will see whether the next fill reflects very low mpg, but based on tracking each tank for 8900 miles since January of this year, it appears that highway speeds (55-60mph) produce dramatically higher mpg than freeway speeds (70-75mph). I get only 24-26mpg when driving a full tank at freeway speeds. On this same trip I also had a tank at 27.5mpg, which was about half highways in rural Nebraska (signed at 65mph and driving the same) and about half freeway.
Opening up your exhaust? Well Q=V*A. Qin must equal Qout. Q is CFM. V is Velocity and A is Area. Think about any component that restricts air flow into and out of this system. Changing your connector pipe from the muffler to the cat from 2" to 2.5" may not be the limiting component on this system. I believe your CRD is underperforming. Hopefully when the ULSD is here and all the crap the stations are selling to get rid of the unused heating oil and non-ulsd, your problems should greatly reduce. Maybe then those of us who bought these CRDs will be smiling all the way to the bank. This version of emission diesel will be much more dependable and cost effective then what will be coming in 2007 and for about 5 years on. I find this CRD gets its best performance after pushing it hard. "Blowing it's nose" I use 5w40 and have the original CCV. I also find the best MPG at 55 to 60 MPH. Isn't it normal for MPG's to decrease by about 10% for every 5 or so MPH above 60. When on the highway try to stay at a constant speed. Drive it like a diesel, don't floor it. Let the turbo build your torque. And driving closer to 55 saves more then just lives. The first one from stop light to stop light is normally the first one at the filling station.
I just got back from my first trip with the CRD, not a long one, about 150 mile, but I did learn alot. Had my youngest son with me, so we stopped a few times, which really helped the process. First leg of the trip had me working through construction zones, so we started out under 55, and then worked up to 70 once out of the zones - results for this leg was 32-33 mpg. On the second leg, we pulled out of the rest stop and came right up to 75 mph, mileage for this leg was only 26-27, so I was scratching my head big time... more experimenting lead me to conclued that the difference is when if the tranny locks in 5th. It seems like it will only do this around 55-60 mph, and once locked if you slowly increase your speed it will stay locked up and you will see 30+ mpg consistently. You blow right on up to 60+mph it will never lockup, and you will be in the 26-28 range. I confirmed this on the way home a few times, it was pretty consistent, at least on my CRD.
I have come to the same conclusion. I use the tachometer to make sure that it has kicked into overdrive. If you are cruising at 65 and the tachometer is reading under 2000 RPM, then you are in the right gear. Seems like you have to overshoot the mark, then back off on the pedal until OD kicks in, and then as you say, slowly bring it up to speed without making it downshift. It is somewhat frustrating that you can buy a Liberty CRD in England (the name for the Liberty in England is actually Cherokee ..... confusing) with a 6-speed manual transmission. Then I could shift when I wanted to. I was hoping they would offer that option here, but instead they decided to stop offering the diesel all together.
Thanks for the input. I mentioned the gearing - the rear 3.73 and wanted at least a 3.55 and then I found a chevy truck site discussing rear ends and it was noted that the 3.73 and 4.10 were the rears for towing. That left the tranny gearing. Yes, I understand about the exponential effect of drag for every 10mph above 55. I can't live by those guidelines in this location, then probably we need to get a gasser. But first see if this state will provide a quality fuel.
It's too bad we couldn't get a video made up on how great this vehicle is, and send it to DCX marketing headquarters.
You know make it a 5 minute deal ,anda little comical , but still get the idea that we love the liberty CRD. Maybe throw line in there like , "hey ! that thing got a diesel in it ??" or something.
Sending a copy to the news station may help get the idea across to them,that they may re-consider.
Thanks for the input. I give you credit not using 0w40 from the beginning. Do we have a underperforming cac due to all the 0w40 mobil 1 in it. Probably. Does this mean my intake air temperature is higher than it should be even with the benefits of the opened exhaust. Probably. Due we have lousy diesel here. Yes. Even stanadyne will not be responsible for the effect of asphaltines in our fuel - per their response to me last year. And I agree with you, older non-egr diesels are better than ours, and ours might be better than the new ones, especially if dcx does not abandon us.
Yesterday on cruise highway 65mph a/c on - 24mpg on a short test. Waiting for first road trip for a real test and some non-texas diesel. Funny since the last reflash, using o/d off tranny started to act funny. Yesterday with all the work done, o/d off local driving evic started to pick up tenths of a mpg. However, it then started the infamous shudder approaching 50 mph that ours never had. O/D will always be left on. Punching it for the need to maneuver, the mph did advance more than before but still not right - no shift down maybe just tc unlock and very slow rise in mph. I still suspect the tc. I didn't ask about the quality of the tranny. All the parts must have come in monday am and all work was done that late am and early afternoon.
Comments
Had to turn in the T&C [five day dcx limit (even with extended warranty) is over]. Better half picked me up after work with our Malibu LT. The poor crd is left up on the rack waiting.
Week 6 CRD held hostage. My new Chrysler sample loaner is a Liberty gasser 2WD. 300 miles and no check engine light.
Problems to date:
*Repace Steering Clock Sensor Spring under recall for ESP system
*Pinion Seal Leak...Replaced seal under warranty.
*Test and replace Optima Battery under recall.
*Reflash Body Control Module
I have 15k miles on the Jeep Liberty CRD that I bought in February '06...yes I drive it often on long trips, Build Date 08/05. Use Castrol Syntec 5w-50 with Purolator PureOne PL25230 at 6k mile intervals. Put a few ounces of Marvel Mystery Oil in the tank at every fill up. Will be switching to Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 or Shell ROTELLA T Synthetic 5W-40 at next oil change.
Have a safe and happy 4th!
1000 miles and no problems
So, we are now looking at a Gasser. You call can take pity on me when you drive by with the 25+ MPG. I can dream.
Signed.... New Diesel Liberty owner in 2010?
My 2006 Jeep Liberty Limited has a trip computer that gives the Avg. MPG. I have checked it doing calculations at fill ups, and it is right on. Fill up your vehicle jump on the highway, set the cruise control to 60/65 mph drive 60 miles down and 60 miles back and fill up the tank...then do the calculations...if you do not get better then 29 mpg without the AC running, you have something wrong with your CRD. You should get between 27 and 29 with the AC running. At 55 MPH you should see over 30 without the AC.
If you would like, I will video the Trip Computer and mail it to you so you can see for yourself that it is real!
Diesels work best with a light throtle foot. They love to operate just under the peak in the torque band, which is in the 60 to 65 mph zone in the Jeep Liberty CRD.
I can get 20 to 22 mpg in my 2005 F350 SRW Short Bed King Ranch Crew Cab 4x4 with the 6.0 Power stroke if I keep it under 65 mph. Once the turbo kicks in above 65 mph on the highway the fuel ecomnomy drops. It has 3.73 rears.
I believe alot of it has to do with driving styles...alot of the posters on here are used to driving gassers...getting the most efficiency from a diesel takes a different driving style and mentality...Life's Short...Take The Scenic Route and Drive Within The Torque Band! :P
Read my post again...what happened when my wife drove the vehicle for a week? It's all about driving style!
MY 2006 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited gets 31 to 32 mpg cruising on the highways at between 55 mph and 65mph in Pa without the AC on, and 27 to 29 mpg in Florida cruising the highways at between 70 and 75 mph w/ the AC on (72 mph at 2000 rpm). Combined city/highway is in the range of 24 to 27 mpg...worst I've had was 22.5 mpg when wife used it for a week while her 2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon was in for repairs doing all city driving...the Wrangler Rubicon only gets 13 to 14 mpg in her daily driving routine.
Now piss off! :mad:
As for the CRD, it is designed to run on ULSD (S15). In Europe, their fuel is S30.
As to a 2008 model, the law states that you must run ULSD in a any diesel built for MY 2007 or newer.
Last night, I heard the ad on the radio. As I recall, it was done by the German CEO of DCX and touched on what DCX was doing for the environment. He mentioned the Liberty diesel and several other diesels that will be coming here in the fall and in the spring. If I hear it again or see it, I will add more information.
Diesels in general require different style of driving as maximum torque arrives much sooner than with a gasser. Those posters who are getting low FE are probably driving their CRDs like gassers.
I used 0w40 too long. Did you warn us last year during oil wars and I forgot? I went with new stuff as a fuel additive. If you've been reading then you remember my not additives again tired old dave post.
I came across my very old little couple ounce can with nozzle in the garage some time back and said - what the heck. Used redline/valvoline syn additives. Bought a new bottle of mmo because of the modern combustion chamber and ethanol etc. The malibu 3.5 v6 just purrs and now it smoothly purrs and better half noticed and asked why with ethanol is ours running so smoothly. Just put some in the diesel, if that is what we get when we buy diesel here.
Found the aircraft engine info on the net weeks ago after the google. And I have bottles of oil of wintergreen that I bought years ago before I found out it wasn't a superficial thing and it wouldn't help but only make the t-shirt smell.
I have all diesels now, a 95 Ford 7.3 auto crew cab DRW with 187,000 plus miles, ii- 12 mpg towing 9,000 lb gooseneck and a 2006 6.6 Kodiak 5500 motor home with 9,000 plus miles, 7-8 towing 12,500 lb two car tag stacker.
My CRD had only two problems, one with trans wire harness burnt from exhaust and the other a glow plug with timing module. It has 13,000 miles and gets no lower than 19 mpg and no higher than 23 usually 22 mpg.
Power is good and the engine runs smooth. Trans shifts right with 5th gear at around 52 mph and lockup dropping about 600 rpm at around 59.I use Shell 5-40. I have the Sport so I don't have the trip computer, I calculate the old fashion way.
65 mph=1800 rpm
Computer shows no codes=EdoN
Hope this helps.
I believe that was after the goodyear removal but before aero-turbine and airbox mod with thinner air filter. I do not overpressure the tires. Only on good diesel can we get the evic to climb to 27-28 (evic good enough-tired of calculated disappointments). Stopped at a shell recently and watched my around town drop to just above 18mpg. Back to the walmart pump run by murphy and back up above 20 around town before now sitting in the shop.
Was 0w40 good enough for our bearings etc and is some of it the 5w50 oil used for break-in.
Also you can now ask DCX questions by going to askDr.Z.com. I asked his what he was going to do for all us "test market" people who feel DCX let us down. I bet Dr. Z don't answer......anyone care to bet?
Here Diesel is $2.899 gas is $2.839 holidays are great for the fuel stations.
Farout.
I believe our specific ECU (engine) combined with the PCM (transmission) are causing this because other manufacturers don't have such variations.
I've never heard of diesel Nissan, Toyota, Suzuki or Mitsubishi 4x4 owners complain about this instability :confuse:
All I know is that my colleagues are getting even mileage practically all year round depending upon traffic conditions. The youngest I refer to has been doing the same travel for more than 10 years already!
Could it be that our engine + transmission are not well matched to control fuel consumption when the converter is open compared to what the other manufacturers do?
thanks,
PrairieGirl
We are going to test drive trailblazer/tahoe/await new hyundai seen here at edmunds. In our minds this crd is history but we have never taken two hits on a new vehicle.
Dr. Z can keep making his commercials, his car failed the side impact and Impala passed.
last week I order a CM filter that cost me about $160.00 with a few replacement cartrages. I install it saturday and on sunday I went to my mother in law. well the computer read 28 mph all the way. The CM filter said that the flow of oil to the engine is very high, I notice tha the engine run much looser maybe oil flow is better. well I want you guy to know what happen to my CRD. welcome all comments.....Happy forth.......
Dr. Z can keep making his commercials, his car failed the side impact and Impala passed.
Remove the side impact air bags and see how the Impala does in the tests. As far as I know DCX does offer side impact bags as an option, that should be a standard feature IMO. Add those side impact bags and re-run the tests, those DC cars will pass with flying colors. Cars that did not have side impact bags fared worse than those that did.
As to running with GM, I would be careful. The Trailblazer has a "rubber" frame and flexes more than the Liberty or GC. The Tahoe is a proven design with totally numb steering and is a "pig" at the pump in spite of the cylinder deactivation feature.
Farout
Thank you very much Grubbs Jeep in Bedford, Texas. Just got the crd back. Repeating an observation posted somewhere else, with new ball joints the crd is now level again and not nosedown. Got new shocks for the coil over shock (strut to some) not at our expense. Got a new tcm but can't report on any results yet. Paid for my request to have the tranny filters and fluid changed.
Talked to the mechanic about why he wouldn't let me drive the crd until the lbj's come in and he was shocked after testing them. The look on his face turned serious. He said his wife drives a liberty and has mileage and that is his first thing to check at home. I reminded him that these fail at ~ 10 mph, turning, braking. Usually people report - just turned into my parking space at school after a 300 mile trip, wife just backed out of the driveway etc.
On the highway I usually get around 25 mpg, in the city the best I get is 18 mpg, typically it is closer to 15 mpg.
I have just over 5,000 miles on my Liberty.
"The CRD owners with the oil in the air cooler tubes may have this problem and it also causes poor fuel economy."
I foolishly used the dcx mobil 1 0w40. At 18k miles before moving up to 5w40, I removed my ccv and found only one spot possibly the result of one drop of sooty oil in the sump part of the ccv. I always thought that maybe the drain hole wasn't completely through the head and therefore no liquid was going back into the head.
Tonight, I removed the ccv again to check the depth of the hole in the sump. What I found was an oily hole, not soot covered, but the o-rings were covered in sooty oil and the plastic .065 trimmer line went down at least two inches. Heavier the oil the better the ccv works (or less volatile the oil).
Has anyone who moved from 0w40 to 5w40 to 15w40 ever checked the efficiency of the ccv. I try to believe someone's observation and/or assertions. I will also believe that vm said to use 5w40 and 10w40.
Diesel Farmer, before you go to thinner oil would you please examine your ccv and ccv sump and the cleanliness of your cac hoses and tell us. Can we assume that you have the original tires and working ccv and no mods?
It looks like a lawn mower fuel filter.
Just met a mature female texas driver who's personal one-time best is 25mpg. The crd is 26 or 27 highway mpg rated. Good diesel and opened up exhaust can give 30mpg. Overinflating the ST balloon tires can get one over 30 on cruise and driving the diesel.
I am really serious. Are you using 0w40 mobil 1? Is your ccv factory? Are you playing by all the rules. If yes, so much the better for an auto autopsy. Please contact jeep engineering or email Dr. Z. and offer up your good crd in a sacrifice for the rest of us.
I find this CRD gets its best performance after pushing it hard. "Blowing it's nose" I use 5w40 and have the original CCV. I also find the best MPG at 55 to 60 MPH. Isn't it normal for MPG's to decrease by about 10% for every 5 or so MPH above 60. When on the highway try to stay at a constant speed. Drive it like a diesel, don't floor it. Let the turbo build your torque. And driving closer to 55 saves more then just lives. The first one from stop light to stop light is normally the first one at the filling station.
No problems! LK
It's too bad we couldn't get a video made up on how great this vehicle is, and send it to DCX marketing headquarters.
You know make it a 5 minute deal ,anda little comical , but still get the idea that we love the liberty CRD.
Maybe throw line in there like ,
"hey ! that thing got a diesel in it ??" or something.
Sending a copy to the news station may help get the idea across to them,that they may re-consider.
Yesterday on cruise highway 65mph a/c on - 24mpg on a short test. Waiting for first road trip for a real test and some non-texas diesel. Funny since the last reflash, using o/d off tranny started to act funny. Yesterday with all the work done, o/d off local driving evic started to pick up tenths of a mpg. However, it then started the infamous shudder approaching 50 mph that ours never had. O/D will always be left on. Punching it for the need to maneuver, the mph did advance more than before but still not right - no shift down maybe just tc unlock and very slow rise in mph. I still suspect the tc. I didn't ask about the quality of the tranny. All the parts must have come in monday am and all work was done that late am and early afternoon.