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However, I did hear a rumor about the ULSD, keep it to yourself. The government had such a large stock pile of Ducktape, because Ashcroft had Homeland Security buy all of WalMart's Ducktape they had in stock. Needless to say the Army had already procured all the Ducktape form Home Depot, and Lowes, and did not have a need for any more. As you can see the two government agencies had Ducktape running out the........(you know what) So in order to dispose of all these warehouses full of Ducktape, they sold one truck load to Red Green in Canada. What they did with the rest is unbelieveable! The ULSD really stands for Undectable Liquified Sifted Ducktape. That's why it's been a secret, people think we are getting better diesel fuel, but really we are just getting Ducktape in compatible liquid form with the same old high sulfer diesel fuel.
I caution you, not to let anyone else know. This is TOP Secret information. This came from a dog from outer space who stars in Men In Black.
Way.....Farout
I'm sorry, but we'll have to run this by HomeWorld Security!
tidester, host
Tailgate
I have a sticker on my CRD that says "Powered By Biodiesel" soon to be replaced with "Powered By Pig #&$@" :shades:
If fry grease derived biodiesel smells like french fries, what does pig poop biodiesel smell like?
I'm not so sure about this pig thing. Would I have to paint my CRD pink and get a curly cue antenna on the back?
In 4 filter drains over 25k miles there was no water. The black flakes showed up for the first time on the last drain at 25k miles.
The unrolled and unfolded filter paper is 11 feet long and 8 inches wide. All of the surface area, except for a few square inches at each end, was dark gray to black – mostly black. My opinion (for what its worth) is that the 25k mile change interval specified on this filter is long enough.
1. If on the "water" end of the filter the specks are probably manganese deposits which is a common contaminant in water.
2. If on the "oil" side the most probable explanation would be specks of "heavy" crude which passed the refining/cracking process or possibly a mold working on the fuel itself
He runs it through a digester and runs the engine on methane gas.
For real!! LK
Apparently it's no longer a beige paper element.
This article will tell you more:
http://www.engineeringtalk.com/news/pkf/pkf123.html
I believe it! During WWII People in Germany, Russia and Eastern Europe did many similar things when "refined" fuel became almost impossible to obtain and mere survival depended on it.
tidester, host
Caribou1, the filter paper is actually beige, dense, fibrous and tears fairly easily. When laid out on the driveway it looks black, but when held up to a light it is still a little translucent. I saved a 6 inch swatch of the material for future reference but I'm not sure I want to go thru this much work each time I change the fuel filter. I think I will just monitor the drain fuel closely and change the filter more often if a lot of the black material shows up.
Clean drain at 6k, clean drain at 12k, clean drain at 18k, then black flakes at 25k. This seems to follow Winter2's scenario of once in a while you get some fuel that is not so good.
LSD gives very little smell, ULSD smells like fresh frying oil when it's warm because of the added lubricating agent that could come from canola like we use here. Cetane usually reduces the noise because the engine can reach it's targeted speed quicker and with less fuel. Keep in mind this engine is driven by a brain and if your neighbour's diesel smells like bacon then he's using pig fat...
Have you ever seen owners of gassers smell their exhausts? Dogs must have used diesel long before us :shades:
The people who do complain about their CRDs tend to be quite vociferous.
Part of the issue with the early build CRDs is that much of the software and hardware is new because emissions rules in Europe are different from what we have here in the United States. Other issues come from lack of motivated or high quality techs, dealers who do not care about after sales customer care and the generally poor quality of domestic diesel fuel with the high sulfur level and low cetane. Some issues come from design modifications made by the manufacturer (trying to fix something that is not broken)in order to save a few pennies per car.
I have had my CRD back to the shop twice, once for a software problem and once for a ruptured hose between the turbocharger and the aftercooler. Outside of that it has been perfect. There have been some drivability issues from time to time (when the engine is cold) related to the poor quality of domestic diesel fuel. Adding a liberal dose of cetane improver and some fuel system detergent seems to quell that issue quite nicely.
This is my second diesel powered vehicle and from time to time I still wonder why I ever got rid of the first one.
I have 11000 miles and 7 months on my CRD with no problems. It does sometimes have the shudder at 55mph or so, which you can see is a common problem that hasn't yet been resolved. In my CRD it seems not to occur if I use one specific brand of fuel, but I'm not certain that there is cause and effect or mere coincidence. So far the shudder is just a nuisance and not a serious problem.
Getting a good dealer with at least one diesel trained tech is essential. If you're in an area with multiple dealers you should be able to find one. If you're in a remote area with only one dealer, I would interview them thoroughly since you'll be up a creek if they turn out to be bad.
There's always some gamble with any new vehicle. I don't think it's any worse with the CRD than anything else, though there are some on here who do seem to have true lemons (And I feel bad for them). I think if you read the boards for any vehicle you will see a decent number of lemons and angry owners. From personal experience, Honda and Toyota, the brands usually looked to as quality leaders, are no guarantee - and I just read that Toyota is recalling still more cars today for yet another problem. Not criticism of Toyota specifically, just noting that no brand is guaranteed regardless of their image or JD Power ratings. I would still happily buy a Toyota or Honda, but as my CRD is running great I have no immediate plans to switch it.
Thanks, that helps alot. I think that I read somewhere that CRDs manufactured after Jan 1, 2006 have all the latest software and hardware updates. Do you know if that is true? Or are new redesigns coming out?
If all you want is a Jeep to drive and do a little off roading or have no need for some hefty towing, get the gas. The gas Liberty goes for less. Cost per mile with the CRD is about 3 cents a mile less.
As for us we like our CRD, we have 18,700 miles and the last two tanks have been 26.1 mpg and 23.9 mpg. This is with the air on always, and lots of stop and go and fulltime 4X$ on about 2% of the time.
I think ours took about 17,000 to be broke in. We just drive it as we have any other gas Jeep Liberty. Good luck, hope this helps.
Farout
I bought diesel fuel yesterday in Columbia, MO for $2.959, where here at the Lake of the Ozarks it is $3.120 to $3.199 so 25 cents less a gallon is a big difference. No stations have posted that they have ULSD. And I do not mean the Ducktape kind.
The Jeep Commander took a big hit for being the vehicle with the biggest blind spot. That has to cost some customers for DCX. They also have pricing on the Patriot at the Jeep.com . The fully loaded one costs about $26,500. I think thats a hep of money for a vehicle made with a Caliber, Compass dash and same engine in all three. I am not at all sure this CVT transmission is going to outlast the 4 speed the Neons had. I got to say something nice, I do like the body shape.
Has anyone else noticed that in the last year or so, DCX is charging extra for different paint colors.
Farout
I do not know if all CRDs manufactured after January 1st 2006 have all of the latest updates. As to new designs, the Liberty is due for re-design in 2007 or 2008 and will be getting a diesel in 2008, but it will not be the same engine found in the 2005 and 2006 models. I would not be concerned about getting parts for this engine either as it is used extensively over in Europe.
If you buy a 2006 CRD, Farout's advice about dealers is very sound. If you have multiple dealers in your area, look at each one to see who will give you the best service. Talk to people who have bought from these dealers and ask them how they feel about the service they have received. That should help you make your decision.
There are several differences I have noticed since I have been using S15.
1. Less noise from the engine.
2. Smoother pickup and less vibration at idle.
3. Less smoke when I "blow the EGR valve's nose".
I currently have 4320 miles with no additional problems since the compressor issue. The only other negative thing I have found is that the speedometer/odometer under measures the speed/distance by 5 percent. (This will effectively extend the warranty by 1800 miles) This difference was confirmed with a portable GPS unit.
I have been getting better than expected mileage based upon most reports. The overall mileage to this point is 23.5 mpg. I just completed a 1636 mile round trip from Jackson, TN to Raleigh, NC. The average mileage for this trip was 26.1 mpg with a high of 28.8 mpg and a low of 23.6. This trip included interstate (70 mph), city, and Smoky Mountain Park roads.
I enjoy driving this vehicle, however, I must admit I keep a close eye on the dash display and listen closely to the transmission gear changes because of all the issues raised on this forum.
nescosmo
Also the dealer tried to "advise" me to pay them to service my trans. I told them that they need to read the maintenance schedules better. That only under extreme service use does Chrysler recommend servicing this trans and then not until 62,000 miles. I was slightly over 32,000 miles at the time. I told the dealer no one does a "Trans Magic" to my vehicles. When a trans is defective changing the fluid and the filters won't fix anything. It might hide the symptoms for a while longer but it is just throwing money away. And if and when you change the fluid and filters, take it to a good trans shop and have them power flush the trans. That is the only way to change all the fluid. As I posted before have your batteries checked! This is the most overlooked cause of problems on cars and trucks with electronic controls today. It's cheap and easy to do and may save you alot of money. I check my battery with every oil change. If you don't have a battery tester use an analog volt meter and have someone start the vehicle while you watch the DC voltage reading across the battery terminals. It shouldn't drop below 9.5 volts ever. Also Right after starting the engine shut it off and watch to see if the battery recovers to 12.7 volts within 30 seconds without the engine running to recharge the battery. A good battery with recover to full voltage. A bad battery won't. And with the engine running turn everything on that uses electric power. Put your volt meter on the AC voltage setting. You shouldn't read any AC voltage. Having an AC voltage normally indicates a defective diode in the alternator. This also will cause electronic control modules to function improperly.
Good luck
He said filters were "ok" but did need to be changed and that there was "some" metal in the pan, but nothing beyond what should be expected at first tranny service. In short, the tranny was basically ok, but that the service was needed.
I have not had any of the tranny problems reported, but changed as I felt 30k was enough. If I was just leasing this vehicle and was going to turn it in next year I would not have bothered with the work.
As to being advised to change the trans fluid at 30K, well in my view that is your call. I tend to over maintain my vehicles and to me that is money well spent. I have never had a major component in the drive train fail because I over maintained it. If DCX made these transmissions like the TorqueFlite 727 of many years ago, I would probably go to 45K miles before I change the fluid but since DCX does build them that way, a complete fluid flush and filter change will occur at 25K.
My trans works fine after the battery was replaced. And keep giving your money away!!! The economy loves you but not the environment with all the oil your wasting.
However $153. for the service you got is too high. At most all Jeep dealers the power flush is $120. and a change oil and filters $110. I have found DCX dealers are very competitive in transmission and engine servicing. I know our oil change in town with one of these national oil change places, oil and filter for our Neon is $28. dealer is $18.95.
If you have metal in the pan at 30,000 miles that is not good no matter who tells you otherwise. You should have the dealer check it out.
We are blessed to have two 5 Star dealerships with in 65 miles and they even wash your vehicle every time you have your vehicle in the service dept, even if it cost you nothing, they wash and clean the inside as well. I also get 10% off the bill because I am a senior adult. That's very good as far as I am concerned.
Farout.
DCX is not going to give anone anything. With the vehicle business in such a struggling shape they have tightened their belst up, real snuggly.
Farout
MB 3. L Bluetec CRD. I think it might well be an additional 3 to 4 grand more. Can you imagine a Sport Liberty CRD going for $35,000. I doubt there would be many taker. This just might increase the value of our CRD's. The CRD in all the SUV value books gives the CRD $2,000 to $2,500 more now.
Farout
Maintenance Tips/Suggestions: Your car’s automatic transmission filter and fluid should be changed periodically according to the schedule in your owner’s manual. Although some maintenance schedules may claim that the transmission fluid or filter doesn’t need to be changed for the life of the car, remember that the average driving situation falls into the "severe" maintenance category due to short trips and stop-and-go driving. Some shops offer transmission flushing and filling, which is intended to remove more contaminants than simple draining of the transmission. If you decide to have this service performed, make sure that the transmission pan will be removed in order to change the filter before refilling it with new fluid. If the filter is not replaced, contaminants from the old fluid, along with those dislodged during the flushing process, could impair flow through the filter and lead to transmission problems.
Just something I thought everyone needed to know before making an informed decision.
Good Luck
Has your dealer been able to correctly identify the source of the buzzing and repair it?
My CRD began making the same noise 2 days ago. It's an 01/05 build with 21,000 completely trouble-free miles.
I will be taking it to my dealer on Monday and will let you know what they tell me.
What has me baffled is my speedometer is reading fast (70 indicated versus 67 actual) but my odometer is reading slow (1 mile indicated versus 0.945 actual). Usually when a speedo is fast, the odometer is fast too. I have adjusted my driving to account for the speedo error (it may save me a speeding ticket too). When I manually calculate the fuel mileage I divide the number by 0.945 to correct the odometer reading. So I have three (3) MPG numbers (indicated from the overhead readout, calculated, and corrected).
This very simple procedure will Erase the “Adaptive Memory” stored inside the Liberty PCM and allow a new “Adaptive Memory” to be developed.
After performing this procedure the PCM will re-learn and store into Adaptive Memory your engines performance characteristics.
Disconnect the POSITIVE battery Terminal and touch it to ground for 30 seconds. (This is to discharge the PCM capacitors, which maintain the Adaptive Memory.
Reconnect the Battery Cable
Turn Ignition Switch to the “On” position but DO NOT start the engine
Turn Headlight “On”
Turn Headlights “Off”
Turn Ignition Key “Off”
Adaptive memory has now been flashed, or erased from the PCM.
When you start the engine it will be running off a set of pre-programmed tables that come with the PCM from the factory.
When you get the engine up to operating temperature the PCM will start to collect data for the “Adaptive Memory”.
The PCM will collect data for Adaptive Memory for the first 50 Warm-up Cycles.
Warm-up Cycle
A warm-up cycle happens when all of the following conditions exist.
Engine is running
A raise of 40F in engine temperature must occur ABOVE the engine temperature at start-up
Engine Coolant Temp must reach at least 160 F.
Once your engine has gone through 50 warm-up cycles in at least a 500-mile distance the PCM adaptive memory is set.
It WILL NOT Change unless you flash it out and start all over again.
This also can happen if you try to start the engine with a weak battery. As was my experience.
Good Luck
I have not thought you don't believe in proper maintenance. I consider your posts very worthy of consideration, and like the power flush article very helpful.
This is the second 545 RFE transmission I have had. Because I have had such inadequate and sloppy service work done at independent garages, I have only used Dodge/Jeep 5 Star dealerships for service, in the last 8 years. There are some areas that I do more than what the owners manual says. I was not aware that the owners manual said 62,000 miles on the schedule B, I thought it was schedule A. It seems like 62,000 it just to far to go, especially if we buy the Zoom travel trailer we are considering.
We had the transmission rebuilt two times in 84,000 miles in our 1996 Neon, I serviced it as the book said. The last transmission was a Chrysler rebuilt, and it now has 103,000 miles on it. After the second rebuilt failed, I decided to go by what the Tec suggested, every 30,000 miles. This has been my guide from that point on, and we have had no transmission problems from that point on any of our vehicles.
I have no idea what a rebuilt 545 RFE would run installed. But our Neon is near $2,500. This 545 RFE might be a lot more.
I try to watch the tec when ever they work on our vehicles. I have seen the bolts torqued and have never had a leak yet. But recently I have had to have 6 lug bolts replaced on the Neon. But maybe after 11 years and 189,000 miles it's just a ware item.
No matter what automatic transmission you can name built today, it is better than the old Power Glide in the early fifties that Chevy had back some 55 years ago.
Farout
If am not mistaken you can get a rebuilt 545RFE for about $2900.00 I'm thinking Jasper but may be wrong. I'll look one up later and post how much and the rebuilder. The price would not include installation. I always install mine myself. I don't trust other people to work on my cars. I rather relie on myself. I kind of wish my warranty period was over so I could play with the jeep myself, but I don't want to pay for the parts.
We I got the CRD back and she's purring again. According to my ticket, the official name of the failed part is:
"EGR Airflow Control Valve"
This long title (especially if the EGR acronym is expanded)likely provides insight as to why it failed and why nobody calls it by name. It also provides insight to the price of the part which is $427 + $40 (don't know what the $40 was for). So far I have right $1000 in warranty services provided for the EGR and related pollution control devices. I feel like we are reliving the 70's when catalytic converters crapped and lead paint was scrapped (remeber the early 70's rust buckets?).
Hopefully the ULSD will save us but I am not holding my breath. Like tin-can Cat-converters, I bet EGR bypass procedures will be the norm until DCX et al get this figured out. I feel real sorry for those that buy an '07 or '08 BlueTec or any diesel for that matter. I love this libby but I can't afford over $1k a year in repairs.
Boiler
Just a little tidbit I thought that I would pass on.
FYI, I am not a stockholder or employee of Countrymark or any of its affiliates nor do I recieve a commission, bonus or any other form of renumeration.
Boiler
"A few posters live in Indiana and/or the midwest. Countrymark Co-Op (http://www.countrymark.com/) provides fuel to the Energy 24 stations that are scattered throughout Indiana. Diesel from these sites use Domestic Soybean Oil AND domestic crude from the Illinois Basin. So, in effect, you can get all of your fuel from these stations and ALL of it will be domestically sourced.
Just a little tidbit I thought that I would pass on.
FYI, I am not a stockholder or employee of Countrymark or any of its affiliates nor do I recieve a commission, bonus or any other form of renumeration.
Boiler "