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Comments
Twocycle2
There doesn’t seem to be wide spread failure of this part on the forums. The Denso alternator is made in Japan, thus it is pricey. There appears to be a lot of cars now running around with these pulleys, some supposedly dependable Japanese cars. A useful life of 90,000 kilometers is okay if the part is cheap and easy to change. It is easy to change, but is it cheap?
Caribou1 found us an explanation and a manufacturer. We just need to find a place where we can buy it for a reasonable price. Thanks to this forum we have some lead time. Also, for those who don’t think they can live with this, there may be a solid pulley out there that could replace the freewheeling pulley and be done with it until the alternator fails early, maybe.
If your memory survived all the topics we discussed here, when the "BATTERY/CHARGE" light comes ON you have to look for:
- a defective freewheeling pulley
- a loose belt
- a defective alternator "FIELD" wire connection from the ECU
- a defective ECU
- a defective sensor causing an 'engine load' condition when the ECU should not charge the battery
- a defective battery
- a defective alternator (brushes, rectifiers, short in the coils, ball bearing, rotor to stator contact) :sick:
Perhaps JEEP should pay us a salary for living with such a complicated outfit. I'm not sure every technician is happy to see one in his shop.
A few years ago it took 5 minutes to give a clear diagnostic:
- turn ON the headlights
- start the engine
- observe the glow of the headlights and listen
+ extinction and a 'clicking sound' == recharge / retest
+ close to extinction then engine starts == good battery bad charge
+ dimming while engine starts == OK
+ as above with no increase of illumination when engine turns == bad generator
We didn't have to be engineers to do this, the man walking ahead of us with the warning lantern knew well enough :surprise:
I am, perhaps, unforgivably impressed by the complexity of the accessory drive components: a clutch on the air conditioner compressor, a clutched viscous water “heater”, a clutched vacuum pump, a freewheeling alternator pulley and a fan viscous/temperature clutch. I guess I can forgive a complicated system that has a problem easier than I can forgive a simple system that has a problem. Or, do I need to just snap out of it and buy something simpler?
Once you understand the production drawbacks, our sophisticated emissions control systems look like plaster over a broken wooden leg (local saying)
E85 seems to be a more viable approach; we could even store ethanol for humans and machinery.
Curious, I looked at the safety instructions and discovered the cleaning solution is an equivalent to a phosphate free non foaming liquid dishwasher detergent.
Perhaps the more we will pay, the more in depth we will investigate and the more we will divulge... :shades:
Two other companies have washable filters now, Fram and Amsoil. The Fram is some kind of modified cellulose and the amsoil is mostly polyester microfiber, I think. The Fram gets washed with regular dish soap and water, and I think that's also true for the Amsoil though I'm less sure with it. Neither one gets oiled. I saw a really good semi-scientific test of several air filters including paper and K&N on bobistheoilguy.com and it appears that a good paper filter removes more dirt than the tested K&N gauze filter and two different oiled-foam filters, while the difference in pressure drop across the filter, although measurable, is so tiny that it wouldn't make any difference in reality (think 0.1% hp gain from worst to best flowing). I'm going to keep using paper filters for now (I currently have NAPA Gold in my CRD and truck) and keep an eye on the Amsoil microfiber system, which seems to have the potential to filter better without more restriction than paper.
I paid 29.00 CHF for the kit plus 12.00 CHF for parcel mail delivery. I won't complain because I had it delivered to my office the next day. Swiss mail is fantastic for that. Nevertheless it's far from $6.50
Next week my CRD is getting its expensive service. I'm told 1,000 Euros is a standard cost for the 60,000 miles overall. I haven't done much off-road last year so I left the K&N in the air box during the summer. I never got better nor worse mileage; I simply use it because I have it.
I agree for the higher quality of a good paper/celluloid filter. Have you noticed that incoming air flows mainly along 3 sides of the box? We could perhaps redistribute the flow by letting more air come in from a central distribution instead of the original lateral duct. In fact, a vertically mounted panel or cone filter element would have been ideal. If you must to go through deep water, you need two snorkels any way :P
- K&N use a mixture of mineral and animal oils (written on their safety data sheet).
- MAF sensors breathe the same air we breathe.
- Cleaning of an oiled filter can be done with dishwasher detergent.
- Then the intake MAF sensor can go directly into the dishwasher.
What do you think?
2) While I see no reason you shouldn't be able to clean a MAF sensor, I'm under the impression that most of them use a thin heated wire that is easy to damage or break. Dishwasher liquid is caustic and may damage the metal wire. If you used regular dish soap you might be OK.
3) While I was interested in K&N enough to try one out, after reading the test on bobistheoilguy I don't see any reason I'll ever be using one again. They probably aren't harmful if you want to use one, but the benefit is low to nil, especially if your time is more valuable than to spend washing, drying and re-oiling gauze filters. I'll probably stick with paper, and if I don't I would most likely use the new Amsoil microfiber filter, not because I think the airflow will make any difference in my vehicle's hp or mpg, but because it might actually filter the air better and therefore help to reduce engine wear.
What do you think?
I think you must not be married, lol.
I wash stuff like ball caps in mine, so a little motor oil may be ok. Probably wouldn't hurt to run an empty load afterwards using a cup of white vinegar if you decide to test this out.
Some countries have to face sand storms and do emergency landings. I only have to deal with pollen
Some things I would consider:
-are you willing to disconnect the EGR valve? This creates half the problems noted, but in the US it's illegal to disconnect if you will drive on public roads (hence the "ORM").
-are you easily ticked off by having to make a few repairs? Don't bet on the same trouble-free experience likely of a Toyota Camry.
-are you able to do work yourself or dependent on a dealer/mechanic?
-are you looking at one that either is a 2005 with remaining time on the 7/70 powertrain warranty, or something that will have an extended warranty giving you coverage?
-are you really interested in having a diesel for cool factor and its torque, or do you just want reliable transportation? You have to be in the first category to want a CRD.
I'd add a couple considerations for you, based on my experience (a focus group of one). I have found this forum to be of immense value when I have had problems since the dealer doesn't see enough of these CRDs to realize a pattern of problems when one crops up. The forum has been great for getting information to ask my dealer to check different things and head off any issues. On the other hand, the folks that have found their way here are more likely to have had problems with their vehicles and are looking for information because the dealers, while not clueless, are not as well versed as we'd like them to be. More importantly, I think the sort of folks (myself included) who are willing to buy a diesel are also more likely to be online. Compare the number of posts in the diesel forum to the customer base and online usage indexes higher, it's safe to bet.
My issues with the vehicle:
The only problems I've had with it have been related to recall campaigns. Either the recall created another problem or it wasn't done correctly by my dealer. Other than that, there haven't been any spontaneous problems. None, unless you want to count the rock bashing I gave the muffler.
Once my transmission was done correctly (they eventually replaced the front pump) I have plenty of torque and the shifting went back to new.
I had one EGR put in at 16000 miles under warranty. I have not had any of the problems that have been on this board since that one short episode. I now have about 40000 miles.
In no way do I want to minimize the difficulties some on this board have had to go through, either mechanically or worse, by dealers or Chrysler to get their issues resolved. This board is the biggest and best information on these CRDs and has been really great to know enough before going to the dealer. When I have asked my dealer to check something out, he's been very amenable and this board gets the credit.
But I wouldn't use the board as a representative sample of all vehicles and owners.
Good luck with your decision.
Steve
- S
Are there good extended warranties to look for? I plan to get an '06 with some warranty remaining.
Thanks,
Jack
If you do buy one, I would immediately do the following maintenance unless the seller proves it has been done recently:
-change fuel filter (probably #1 priority)
-drain engine oil and replace with synthetic 5W-40 with a CI-4+ rating. This could be Shell Rotella-T, my choice, or Mobile 1 5W-40 "DIESEL TRUCK" oil. Although DCX specified a Mobil 1 0W-40 oil, that is, IMHO, one of the biggest sources of EGR and other problems as it is only a CF rated oil which is an antique specification. [Incidentally, buy a spare replacement drain plug before you do this, you'll thank me later.]
-determine whether all recalls have been performed, particularly F37. You probably do want F37 done, though read up on it before having it done.
-determine if the front transmission pump is going bad, and have it replaced under warranty if it seems to be (hopefully it won't ever go bad again)
-change fluid in front and rear differentials
-I personally find the stock tires acceptable but I seem to be in the minority. In any case, when the tires need replacing do some research and don't get the OEM tires again.
I think the CRD is reasonable to work on if you are mechanically inclined. You will find the oil filter and drain plug location better than on virtually any other vehicle, though you may not enjoy the amount of force required to loosen the drain plug.
My dad had two SAABs, a 99 and a 900. The 900 served him for 18 years with no significant problems, and he sold it used at somewhere past 200,000 miles still in good shape (the mechanical fuel injection system was starting to wear out). He misses that kind of reliability! He now has a Toyota Tundra and Volvo XC70; both have been fine, but the 900 was truly a star. He did 90% of his own work on both SAABs and never complained about them being hard to work on.
I found an oil at Auto Zone call Royal Purple and for what I have found is a very good oil. I am thinking of putting the 15w-40 wait ( I am in florida). Does any of you guys know anything about this oil. I use Rotella now and is good but sometimes engines work better with when you change oil brands, so what's up....
Nescosmo.
Here, our differentials and transfer case don't need any fluid changes on the "normal" schedule, but of course 99% of US driving is supposedly "severe". But as for the coolant, I think that's supposed to last 5 years or 100,000 miles even on the severe schedule (I know that's the rating for our 2006 Dodge Ram, I would have to check for the CRD).
If you buy it directly from VM, 4500 Euros (found on the web, confirmed by Jeep tech). Buy it from Chrysler it's 7000 Euros, have it installed it's 12,000 Euros plus 19.6% tax. This is almost the list price of the truck in the US.
Service bill comes to USD 2100 at 60,000 miles :mad:
I wonder how much people pay for a Grand Cherokee? Perhaps they have to leave the house keys :shades:
The VM direct price sounds reasonable, I guess. I hope this is purely academic and not a sign of engine life!
Has anyone changed a glow plug on a CRD? Some makes require a special tool to ream the glow plug hole to clean it out before installing a new plug. Does the VM engine require this? What’s in Vodka that requires it to be charcoal filtered? :surprise:
There is almost no empty space under the hood of the CRD the size of a human hand. :sick:
Oh BTW, the stock tires (goodyear ST) - they rated 60th out of 60 tires for an SUV, according to a TireRack Survey. I'm at 25k, pretty much out of sipes, and will be getting either Bridgestone Dueler Revo's or Avon Rangers by months end. I have had no major problems with these tires, but they just gotta go before the next Michigan winter!
- S
http://www.bosch.com.au/content/language1/html/4842.htm
Liberty glow plug looks like the one on the right.
0 250 302 004
What is you feelings about this change of owners?
Our "Green Beast" is still in the hands of DCX, 6 months after our buy back.
I hope you all are doing well and the CRD keeps on for many many years to come.
farout
The Chevy Suburban is obviously a big step up in both price and size, but I am extremely happy with it. GM is back, big time; I have no doubt that they will be around for many decades to come. I do have some doubts about the new Chrysler LLC, and I also can nearly guarantee that the Jeep dealer I bought from will close its doors within a few years, based on their service and sales.
I am getting around 17.5 mpg on gasoline in my usual commuting route, vs. 23-24 on diesel with the CRD. I think I am doing the same or better with the Suburban as I would have done with a gasoline Liberty. I realize the vehicles aren't directly comparable so apart from mileage I won't try to compare them.
I will miss the good mileage and torque of the CRD, but I won't miss its experimental nature, engine noise, diesel pumps, etc. I think it is a basically good vehicle that DCX failed to adequately tune for US emissions and driving conditions, and then dealers didn't know or care how to work on it. I consider the CRD to be essentially abandoned by Chrysler at this point, and unless your dealer has been wonderful I wouldn't count on any future dealer help. Most of the long service visits I had were, as my wife pointed out to me, due to my dealer breaking some part while fixing something (often one of the recalls) for which the essential part had been pre-ordered. So, again, my dealer was a big part of the problem. But in my area there are only two other nearby Jeep dealers, one of which is much smaller and neither of which necessarily sold CRDs or cares about helping me. Since I'm in a GM town there are 10 Chevy dealers in town and another 10 within a short distance, so in the event my dealer doesn't turn out well, I have 19 others to choose from! (Not counting GMC dealers which can also work on the Suburban.)
Like Farout has done, I intend to keep reading this forum out of curiousity and wish you all the best.
-mating an automatic transmission. If the CRD had been sold with a stick, half the problems never would have existed.
-DCX's dumb decision to spec 0W-40 oil with a CF rating. I think the CI-4+ oils make a big difference in minimizing EGR and turbo problems, by reducing evaporation and doing a much better job of handling soot.
-the EGR system. I know it's basically on the Euro market, but I think the tuning of it for the US market didn't go right.
-engine programming - too tight for emissions and probably wasn't tested enough.
The VM Motori engine itself doesn't see to be the problem. If GM does proper emissions and tuning work before selling a vehicle with them, they should be fine.
In Europe, diesel fuel is better in terms of quality, cleanliness and cetane. Most of the aromatic compounds have also been removed too and the sulfur content of European diesel has been very low for some many years before ULSD appeared here in October 2006. So the CF rated oil would work well in Europe but not here. That is more of a VM Motori issue than a DCX issue. Better quality fuel yields less soot, cleaner burn, etc.
In Europe, emissions are quickly approaching what we have in the States and the programming they have in Europe is very close to what we have here.
As to the transmission, I blame DCX here fully. A stouter TC was definitely needed as well as a few other trans parts. A manual trans might have been better but clutches made in the U.S. tend to be a bit weak and would be torn apart by this engine. I destroyed two clutches in my Isuzu diesel and finally was able to obtain a stouter one that lasted much longer than the other two did together.
Lastly, we have too many dealers who simply do not care.