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Post a response to this note and I will explain what direction you might have open for you.
farout
If it needs changing, will it be black or how can I tell ?
Mine is currently a tan/yellow color.
I would take it off and blow it out-if it is plugged replace it, but I think the unit draws so little air through it, that unless you drive in dust all the time it should last as long as the engine.
plug located? Are you diconecting them from the top or from under the jeep/ thank you !
Did I mention my tractor doesn't have EGR? I think EGR is very, very bad news for diesel engines, especially running on the 500pm "low sulfur" diesel vs. the new standard of 15ppm ULSD. I can see another reason why people who disable the EGR valve have better results. Me, I could never do that (at least on a nearly new vehicle), but I do think selection of oil with a CI-4+ (or possibly CJ) rating will make a big difference over the ancient CF rating that DCX originally specified. As has been noted, the CI-4+ rating is specifically designed to handle soot associated with diesel EGR systems. I am using Shell Rotella-T synthetic 5W-40 in the tractor and in our Ram/Cummins pickup, and I had used this same oil in the CRD. Other good choices would be Mobil 1 diesel formula or Amsoil, I think.
Anyway, this is my 2 cents and worth what you paid for it, but for those still fighting the good fight to keep their CRDs running, I hope it's helpful.
I'm desperately trying to find a reasonable alternative source of energy for the common rail. It seems the higher the cost of petrol, the higher the price of alternatives fuels. There's no easy way out.
If you use Rotella synthetic, you can extend your service interval to two years :shades:
Passenger front top.
Thanks,
Backhoebob
I haven't heard anything bad about the GC diesel driveline, and being a straight MB port-over it should be fine.
IMHO, the Liberty was a much more reasonable shot for a diesel SUV in the US, apart from the very large extended-full-size SUVs that had diesel options prior to 2005 or so (the Ford Excursion and the 3/4 ton Chevy Suburban). There will soon be diesel options from Honda in their Pilot and Ridgeline, and not long after that probably in Ford and GM full-size 1/2 ton pickups and SUVs. I don't think Chrysler will get anywhere with the MB diesel in the GC unless the price can be reduced by $10k.
I will call the dealer in the morning to make an appointment.
If you're still in the warranty - and I hope you are at that mileage - personally I would start working on a buyback. I know you've been fairly happy with the CRD and seemingly committed to keeping it even if modifications are needed, but IMHO it is going to be one of the worst orphaned vehicles in the US market in a long time. If you want a reliable diesel get one of the 3/4 ton pickups - they DO work in the US, but of course that puts you in a very big and pricey truck (I have one, a 2006 Ram, which has had only minor warranty items and no driveability issues). If you want an economical diesel get a VW TDI, and be prepared to put up with some level of hassle - though not nearly as much as the CRD causes.
If you look at the CRD, there are not too many parts that could go wrong. The engine is solid and the sensors; will all know were they are; After that we have the EGR valve, the FCV that control the fresh air, The fuel filter, that we all know the issues with it and that is about it. So I think we have a very strong vehicle in our hands.
Nescosmo.....
My mileage reached 13.2 Liters/100Km with ULSD-B5 instead of 11.5 for the same traffic and weather conditions (20.5 down to 17.8 US mpg) just after the 60,000 miles service. I had the cetane booster added in the tank, new filters, no more EGR (the dealership agrees it's better this way), no reprogramming and the same old tires. Now I'm just comparing between (the most expensive) fuels with a vehicle in top notch condition.
Some thing's wrong somewhere :confuse:
I think you were just on the edge of the razor where the ECU compares the achieved angular acceleration versus a mapped value. The reinforced transmission elements are invisible to the ECU, but your Lambda sensor will always have it's word to screw up your expectations :sick:
As for the critical speed idea, my CRD seemed to have a critical speed at 56-58mph, prior to F37. F37 seemed to eliminate the critical speed shuddering, but didn't eliminate shuddering in general, particularly after accelerating hard or accelerating uphill. In some cases after accelerating the shuddering became a violent bucking.
I bought crappy fuel just after you suffered from Hurricane Katrina and now that crude oil speculations predicted low US oil reserves, I have the impression we have been given the same soup :sick:
What you define as being the critical speed applies to my truck as well. The 'fifth' or 'last' gear selection occurs around 56 and 58mph. The only way to understand what's going on is to observe the RPM: if the engine starts bucking, the engine RPM stay at the same value. If the clutch opens and closes the RPM will show a variation.
When you accelerate hard or go uphill you don't burn all the injected fuel; at least mine doesn't. I noticed this when I worked pulling trees out of the forest: I had lots of white smoke with the smell of diesel fuel as soon as I let go the load. This is also what surprises me about the after market tuning chips: if I can't burn the default dose, how could I burn more fuel to produce more HP :confuse:
The only firm statement (friendly advise) I received from my dealership is never use the full torque during long periods at low rpm on the standard automatic tranny. This will rip it apart, it's simply a matter of time.
On the other hand, 200 HP out of this diesel engine with a manual shift would be fun as long as you could afford premature tire wear
I think the TC can't handle the torque and is slipping.
I have looked at the Suncoast upgrades and may do that when the trans fails again.
I am also debating converting it to a stick.
It still runs good at 91500 mi once I got rid of the EGR.
My only have 13k and is an 05.
Somebody told me that if I change the shift kit it wil be ok ever with the TC from Jeep. I will love to replace the TC and the shifter but the price is high and the Job situation arround here is slow. Winter is here and the A/C bus. is slow. I think that I can do it my self but will see. I think I will start buying the sensors that I can buy for now before they go too high.
Nescosmo.
I have put on over 250 mi in a day running between jobsites.
Have you had the timing belt changed?
I think the recommendation is 100000 so I will wait a while yet.
As to the fuel issue, I can rule that out. I have only had one bad load of fuel that I unknowingly purchased on a long trip and that caused the CRD to not run at all until it was fully purged from the system. I buy my fuel consistently at one or two places where they have lots of truck traffic and turnover lots of fuel.
The trans was trouble free before I had the F37 recall done and would shift perfectly, not shudder or slip under load. I am inclined to think that the F37 recall has something to do with this issue. I will be seeing the dealer this coming Thursday. The service manager, the diesel tech and I will be taking a little trip so they can witness the problem first hand. If it is the TC, then it will need to be replaced. I will want them to add a Transgo kit to the trans to resolve other issues that the RFE-545 has, even if it means warranty loss on the trans. I will also want them to get the TC from a place in Texas that builds an improved TC for any Chrysler vehicle using the RFE-545. I am willing to pay the difference between what it costs Chrysler and the cost of the better TC.
The service manager wants to see info on the Transgo kit and if it resolves issues that plagued the trans, he told me he would go to bat for me to have it installed and still retain the warranty. I will pass on more info when I have it.
Otherwise, I am happy with my CRD in spite of some of it's quirks.
Nescosmo.
They say the serpentine belt at 37500 which is awfully light in my opinion.
I am still on the original.
Nescosmo
I use Rotella 5W40 and Power Service at each fill up.
I will keep that in mind when the time comes.
Does the water pump run off of the timing belt and if so, should it be changed when the timing belt is replaced?
Winter2
Information from EPA "google then enter epa420-b-07-003"says chrysler did the f37 because high torsional forces led to tc over heating, ect . Also states that there were 11,286 vehicles recalled . My information is there were about 11000 made, so this would seem that every diesel should have been recalled. To futher confuse the issue the 2006s have an additional recall #F31 as disclosed in report to the EPA.
and I would rather have any one interested in that recall to bring it up themselves by " googling the (EPA f31 )
I love this machine and am going to try to work things out even though it has already 2 recalls and 6 warranty issues before got it,and have only taken it in once for warranty sevice two days after I purchased it.
Emp2
Oil coolers are simple tech and likely sourced from 3rd world shops. Quality control is probably erratic and you probably just got a bad one. As long as it didn't throw any junk in the oil system you should be able to replace it for under $100 and be on your way. I don't think it matters if you have one identical to OEM as long as it is the same basic size and flow rating.
Jeff Bell Vice Pres. of Chrysler Jeep had a press release that stated all 2006 diesel engines would be covered by a five year 100,000 mile limited warranty.
Many car reviews done by professionals in regard to the 2006 talk of this exstended warranty for the jeep.
My warranty book has wording ,although confusing that there was intention of a warranty of some kind. Page 9 in my warranty book talks of a begining date of this diesel warranty after 36 months or 36,000 miles.
The warranty information that can be down loaded from the Jeep owners site does not have the same wording as my warranty book.
When contacting Customer service on this they have no information to do with any other warranty other than the one they use wich is the one that is on line.
Do you or any one else have a warranty book that is the same as mine.
I had a 2005 CRD with the 7/70k so I can't answer as to the wording.
We also own a Dodge Ram with the Cummins, which has always had a 5/100k separate engine warranty. Funny thing on it is that it is written that the 5/100k BEGINS AFTER the 3/36k ends. Some smart people have interpreted this as being up to 136k miles on the engine warranty. DCX will deny this interpretation, but I have read a long thread on another site where two Ram owners successfully got items warranted well after 100k miles on their Cummins engine, based on how it is written, and in each case after a long fight. Whatever you have in writing, don't accept anything less than that if you have a problem.
I do not believe that the torque converter clutch was slipping under load since there was not much load at the time. It seemed more like an inability of the system to make a definite decision to engage the clutch. Or, it could be low RPM impulse torque from the engine slipping the clutch and I am deceived. All of my strange transmission events seem to happen after 5 or 6 hours of driving.
Stop for a coffee break every two hours
Seriously, how is the weather when this happens? Is it very dry? Could it be a parasitic electricity build-up?