Dodge Dakota - II

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Comments

  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    To all-

    Have any of you ever seen this page? http://www.madisoncountydodge.com/1.html

    David has been through hell and back with this truck. Now the dealer is suing HIM because of his website! It should be the OTHER way around with their incompetence. I'm sure that David would appreciate a word of encouragement if you think he's right in what he did by posting this website. HOW else can you get a dealer to take your problems seriously when they think that none of us know what we're talking about when we bring our vehicles in for service.

    Thanks.

    fastdriver
  • bkonteachbkonteach Member Posts: 2
    say, I was wondering if anyone knew if the college grad incentive is going to continue into Jan. I see on another site that it expired 12-31-99. It's $400.00 and could make or break the deal for me on a dakota 4x4, cc.
    Thank you in advance!!
  • wheelerwheeler Member Posts: 9
    bkonteach, check out the official Dodge site at www.4adodge.com. There you will find the incentives offered by Dodge listed by model. Or just call your local dealer they should be able to tell you.

    Your finances are certainly none of my business and I invite you to take this with a grain of salt, but, if four hundred dollars one way or the other will make or break the deal for you maybe you're stretching your budget a little. They'll be just as good next year when you've saved a few more bucks.
  • catnip2377catnip2377 Member Posts: 42
    Hi all. I really find your posting interesting and informative.

    Hi currently have a 93 YJ and i am very intersted in buying a dodge dakota within the next year. I will be graduating and will be eligible for the $750 grad rebate.

    I am looking at the Dodge Dakota C/C and would want basically a full load with the full time 4wd and the amazing 4.7 V8. I drove the new cherokee with it and its a really quick truck. I have driven the 99 with the 5.2. they both had different gear ratios and one was really slow.

    Does anyone have the new 4.7 and how does it compare to the old 5.2? Does anyone have any figures on performance for the 4.7?

    Any comments would be appreciated.

    Thanks for your time.
  • wheelerwheeler Member Posts: 9
    It sounds like maybe you want something that scoots. I modified a full time 4wd Dodge PU once, it was a mistake. It's like trying to make a race horse out of a mule. What I got was atrocious mileage and chewed up steer tires. If you want to race maybe you should consider the RT with the 360 and a limited slip. I've heard they accelerate with alacrity. Although I personally don't care for the 360.
    The mechanic at the dealer where I got my Dak is really high on the 4.7. He said forget the 318 or even the 360 "it's the 4.7 all the way!" I have a 4.7 and can attest to it's smoothness, drivability and power for conventional use. I haven't had it long enough to determine it's reliability; however, it was designed, so mopar says, to last 150k. The mileage is average. It has never been at full throttle and, barring an extraordinary emergency, never will be--that's not where I'm at now.
    I opted against full time 4wd because of the added expense for gas and tires. It is a marvelous technology for going in the snow, it really handles well. But unless one lives in a snow zone and needs it constantly I think it's a poor trade off to be stuck with it the rest of the time on bare roads. Even in the snow prudent operation requires it only to get going from a stop and old fashioned engaged 4wd does OK for that. The real challenge to driving under reduced traction conditions is stopping not starting anyway. For that what you need is good tires, ABS and caution behind the wheel.
  • jbauerjbauer Member Posts: 39
    I now have 5500 miles on my 4.7 and changed the oil for the first time. Much to my dismay when I removed the oil filler cap the entire cap and the black tube leading to the head was full, and I mean full of a yellowish tan foam and the cap contained water. My first thought was water in the oil but I didn't notice any water in the oil when I drained it. After 100 miles on the oil change it's starting to do it again. Anyone else experiencing the same thing? This I know is not normal and will take it into the dealer as soon as possible. Any insights would be appreciated.
  • tgr1tgr1 Member Posts: 92
    Heard about this in other topics of the 4.7 engine. Seems people are getting condensation inside the filler tube in cold winter weather. I live in Florida, so I haven't seen it. Daimler Chrysler is apparently checking out this problem, and they may be coming out with a TSB on it soon. This is a newly designed oil fill system, to reduce pollutants and emissions. Apparently, crankcase moisture is rising up and condensing inside the filler tube.
  • catnip2377catnip2377 Member Posts: 42
    Well i would definately want the 4wd, no 2wd for me. Well i live in Vancouver, BC, Canada and we get a ton of rain and i also do a lot of driving in the snow (which is only about 30 mins away since we are surrounded by mountains) so that is why i was looking at the full time. I was dissapointed that they don't make the full time and part time on the same transfer case any more.

    I was looking at the Chevy s-10 ZR2 also but i am leaning more towards the dodge because of the bigger engine and size.

    I am also stuck on whether or not to get the club cab or quad cab. Does anyone know the price difference for the two?
  • jaalfsjaalfs Member Posts: 6
    I visited Del Amo Dodge yesterday to look into
    ordering a new Quad Cab. This short experience left
    me wondering why I want to even buy a Dodge. This
    dealership treated me very badly. I just wanted to
    find out the procedure to order the Quad Cab. They
    started off by telling me they expected a profit of
    $1200 on any ordered truck. I laughed at that.
    They then went on to ridicule me for using the
    internet to research my purchase. They insinuated
    that if I succeeded in making a purchase for $500
    over invoice that I would somehow regret it later.
    That the dealership would somehow rip me off in an
    unseen way. I must now find another dealership to
    order from. If you choose to visit this dealership
    please be aware of the response you will get by
    trying to be an aware and informed consumer.
  • jbauerjbauer Member Posts: 39
    I am going to take my truck in tomorrow, stopped by today and the service manager seemed to think it couuld be a bad pcv. I don't think it's a blown head gasket, although the symtoms point to that, because I am not noticing any white smoke from the exhaust and there is no anti freeze smell. I live in Indiana and it has been cold here. I hope your point is the problem, I think. Wonder how they will fix the problem ? I wonder if this posting has caused the other cold weather truck owners to run out and check their oil filler tube? I appreciate your input tgr1.
  • tgr1tgr1 Member Posts: 92
    Have the service manager check with Chrysler. I know they are getting LOTS of complaints about this. Someone else in another forum said the dealer, and their regional chrysler rep were mystified by it, and were going to the factory people to find the cause and a fix.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    SURPRISE!! This 'foam' is an emulsion of oil, water, and acid. It is due to condensation which occurs in ALL internal combustion engines during cold weather. Unfortunately, in the 4.7L engine it manifests itself as this never-ending foam build-up within the oil-filler tube. This has been well explained in forum#1318 (00 Dakota 4.7l)

    The only answer right now is to wipe it out every few days. The more cold starts... the more often it needs to be wiped out. I usually soak a paper towel or two every few days.

    Some people have built a metal 'shield' to reduce the constant cold blast of air that comes around the passenger-side of the radiator. One guy even drilled a hole in the filler-cap. The problem stems from this area also being the 'uplift tube' for the PCV (Positive Crankcase Ventilation) system so any 'steam' from the crankcase ends up re-condensing within this area. I suspect the REAL fix will be to insulate the filler tube from the cold blast so no re-condensation takes place in that area.

    DC has been deafly silent about the whole thing!
  • bkteachbkteach Member Posts: 8
    I ordered a dakota cc 4x4. The dealer wants to throw on a $400.00 advertising fee. Is he trying to screw me?
    Thank you in advance.
  • bkteachbkteach Member Posts: 8
    Is this something that could be harmful to the engine if you leave it.
  • jbauerjbauer Member Posts: 39
    Please go to topic 3018 and read posting #43. I would appreciate your thoughts.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    Well, gee a whole month without being able to get here - long story.

    Anyway, I'm back but don't have time to read the 1,000s of posts I missed on various topics - so if anyone asked me something sorry, I missed it, but feel free to ask again.
  • rmr71676rmr71676 Member Posts: 5
    For any of you guys in Ohio (or Texas if I end up moving) I have a question for you. In a few months, after winter is over here in Ohio, I plan on buying a new 4x2 CC SLT. I want it with the SLT plus group, CD player, 3.92 axle, and most importantly, the 4.7 V8. Has anyone in either of these states seen configurations like this on the lot? I haven't as my local dealer has mostly 4x4's right now since it's winter. I was wondering if I'll have to order it, or if a configuration like this is common enough to be stocked. When I find out whether or not I'm moving, this info will help me decide when to actually try to get the truck. Thanks.
    -Ryan
  • rmr71676rmr71676 Member Posts: 5
    For any of you guys in Ohio (or Texas if I end up moving) I have a question for you. In a few months, after winter is over here in Ohio, I plan on buying a new 4x2 CC SLT. I want it with the SLT plus group, CD player, 3.92 axle, and most importantly, the 4.7 V8. Has anyone in either of these states seen configurations like this on the lot? I haven't as my local dealer has mostly 4x4's right now since it's winter. I was wondering if I'll have to order it, or if a configuration like this is common enough to be stocked. When I find out whether or not I'm moving, this info will help me decide when to actually try to get the truck. Thanks.
    -Ryan
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    When you are ready to purchase, your local (OH or TX) can do a search for that vehicle "on the ground". Until then, anything you might see is subject to prior sale, and that can only lead to your frustration. I did see a couple of 4 X 2 trucks here in Eastern PA, but I don't know how they were hung. You did not specify auto or manual, and it is difficult to find a 4.7 with manual on the lot. Good luck in all of your endeavors.

    Bookitty
  • black10black10 Member Posts: 7
    I have the 2000 dakota club cab with 4.7 L.in northern Ohio. I also had the foaming problem. I removed that big plastic filler tube and wrapped it with neatly sized carpet padding and secured this padding to the plastic filler tube with electrical tape. After I reinstalled it, I then stuffed 2 layers of carpet padding under the cap itself. The added insulation stopped most of the foaming. I used to be able to shake a lot of water drops from the cap. The assembly is held with 3 8mm (5/16) bolts. I took my time and made the job look like original equipment.
  • black10black10 Member Posts: 7
    I have the 2000 dakota club cab with 4.7 L.in northern Ohio. I also had the foaming problem. I removed that big plastic filler tube and wrapped it with neatly sized carpet padding and secured this padding to the plastic filler tube with electrical tape. After I reinstalled it, I then stuffed 2 layers of carpet padding under the cap itself. The added insulation stopped most of the foaming. I used to be able to shake a lot of water drops from the cap. The assembly is held with 3 8mm (5/16) bolts. I took my time and made the job look like original equipment.
  • black10black10 Member Posts: 7
    I have the 2000 dakota club cab with 4.7 L.in northern Ohio. I also had the foaming problem. I removed that big plastic filler tube and wrapped it with neatly sized carpet padding and secured this padding to the plastic filler tube with electrical tape. After I reinstalled it, I then stuffed 2 layers of carpet padding under the cap itself. The added insulation stopped most of the foaming. I used to be able to shake a lot of water drops from the cap. The assembly is held with 3 8mm (5/16) bolts. I took my time and made the job look like original equipment.
  • jbauerjbauer Member Posts: 39
    You may want to re-think the carpet pad on the inside of the cap. Over a period of time the pad will more than likely begin to come apart as this material was not designed to handle hot petroleum vapors. If this material does come apart it could become lodged in the oil journals causing some very expensive damage.

    I was wondering if you tried your insulating method without putting anything in the cap?
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    black10-

    Instead of trying these backyard mechanics solutions to your NEW truck, why don't you raise HELL with Chrysler??? Call Auburn Hills directly- NOT the "customer service" number, but corporate headquarters if all the "local" people- dealer, factory rep etc. are of no help!

    You should NOT have to be applying home remedies to ANYTHING that new!

    Just my .02!!

    fastdriver
  • rmr71676rmr71676 Member Posts: 5
    I received a response from someone by email suggesting that I get the 3.55 rear in my 2000 CC 4x2 instead of the 3.92 to save gas. Well, the reason I was going for the 3.92 is that I wanted this truck to be fast of the line. The truck I am getting is the wife-happy compromise of an R/T. Almost all of the performance, but not the bright colors and sporty trim. I was wondering if anyone here new of the performance difference between the two gear ratios in a 0-60 or 1/4 mile. Thanks.
  • black10black10 Member Posts: 7
    I am a mechanic. There is no time in the shop to be creative and innovative. The backyard solutions are usually the best anyway.
    Also, my browser freezes a lot when I access Town hall, hence the 3 postings. And there are 4 bolts holding the oil filler tube, not 3 like I originally posted.
  • black10black10 Member Posts: 7
    I originally thought that any organic compound like padding would break down eventually. But I tinker a lot and will keep an eye on it. Also, steam and vapor rise to condense on horizontal surfaces, even when they are warm. Hence the absorbent material inside the cap. I noticed that foaming occured on the walls of the filler tube, and not as much on the top, where mostly water droplets formed.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    black10-

    After I wrote that comment about "backyard mechanics", I thought to myself- maybe he is a mechanic. I did not mean to imply that you didn't know what you were doing or to put you down. Sorry if it came across like that. All I meant is that you spent your hard earned money on a brand new Dodge and should not have to resort to these tactics to solve the foaming problem. I would be on the phone to every division at Chrysler, including their Corporate offices, until I found someone who was able to resolve the problem if the local yokels have no clue like many "5-STAR" dealers!!

    There's no way I would accept anything less then fixing the problem! I guess everyone's different. Hope Chrysler finds a solution instead of trying to come up with yet another lame response to our concerns.

    fastdriver
  • jbauerjbauer Member Posts: 39
    I have a posting that indicated that I installed a material called Armaflex around my filler tube and here is my update from the Saturday installation. Although the insulating material seems to have helped it did not solve the problem. I am still experiencing condensation on the cap, which was not insulated, and the foaming is beginning to re-occur.

    It almost seems like the tube is acting like a flue on a fireplace, the heat a moisture is rising to the highest point in the engine with no place to go. I tend to agree 100% with fastdriver about turning the problem over to the engineers with Chrysler, they designed it and they should be able to come up with a solution. It obviously is a macho thing to try and resolve the problem ourselves...after all we ARE men, grunt, grunt, grunt.

    I remember the old Chevy 283's and 350's that had the long filler tube extending from the intake manifold but I never remember any condensation or foaming problems. Anybody have any ideas what the difference might be ??

    If anyone has an address or phone number for a department at Chrysler-D that really cares I would appreciate the information. As previously stated....why pay all that money for a very nice truck and then find ourselves trying to solve someone else's design problem. Good point! But you don't know how bad I wanted to find the cure. :-(
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You asked;

    >>I remember the old Chevy 283's and 350's that >>had the long filler tube extending from the >>intake manifold but I never remember any >>condensation or foaming problems. Anybody have >>any ideas what the difference might be ??

    The filler-tube on the Dakota is also the 'uplift' tube for the PCV system. As its name implies, the Positive Crankcase Ventilation system produces a constant flow of filtered air from the Air filter, into the rear of the crankcase, up the filler-tube and into the intake manifold (High vacuum) to be burned inside the engine.

    (Check for yourself... follow the finger-sized tube from the air-filter-housing. It splits into 2 tubes, each go into the 'firewall-side' of the 2 heads. The PCV valve is a 1/4-twist to remove from the oil-fill and that tube goes to the intake- manifold)



    Perhaps this is the old Chevy V8s did not use the filler tube in this manor.
    Also, on the Dak, this tube is directly behind a huge 'hole' (On the passengers-side of the radiator) that allows cold outside air blow on the filler-tube.
  • rcv1rcv1 Member Posts: 1
    i have a '99 dakota with the 3.9l v-6. I have had a problem with engine ping since delivery. dodge has had me try higher octane...even 93 doesnt solve the problem, they re-routed plug wires (per star hotline), the last attempt to fix was leaky intake manifold gasket which when they went to repair found carboned up valves and pistons. They pulled all valves and cleaned, cleaned piston tops, seals guides ect. this helped some but still pings up hills. i'm currently pursuing lemmon law for replacement vehicle. waiting for hearing date?
  • rotondimrotondim Member Posts: 27
    I have been to 2 dealers to price the above combination. One dealer claims that this configuration is no problem. The 2nd dealer is insistent that with the 4.7 and the auto trans I need to also get the 3.92 axle ratio and the Full Time Transfer Case. I'm not sure who may be telling stories here. If anyone can shed some light on this I would be very greatful. Thanks.
  • jwm2jwm2 Member Posts: 43
    rotondim: I think the 2nd dealer that is telling you about a full time transfer case is mistaken.I just went to their web site and ran your options thru ok without any flags pulling up. I did notice in the Dakota brochure with the full time 4x4 option that it stats that the automatic is mandatory. I'm not sure if he is thinking that means you must have full time or not. But full time is just an option for you to decide on or part time 4x4. Only other thing I can think of if maybe you live in Alaska or something like that where they might have some sort of restrictions.
    For that we might have to ask one of the Dakota owners up North about that.

    Andy are you there??

    Jim
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    As far as I am aware there is no regional restriction on production combinations. There are national differences - e.g. DRLs mandatory here in the (rather brown) frozen wastes of Canada.

    Automatic is definitely mandatory for full time 4wd - in my opinion so is more money than sense - but that's a different issue.

    The 3.92 thing seems to be getting more confusing by the day - the last I heard 3.92 was mandatory with the manual transmission because of concerns over the engine / manual tranny combination being too much for the 3.55. Course I'm going to say that I think 3.92 is a better bet anyway - but rotondim I assume you have already considered that choice.
  • gsx750fgsx750f Member Posts: 32
    rotondim: I think the problem with getting exactly what you want is as simple as supply vs demand. I assume many of the Dak parts are used on the Durango. If they are having supplier problems, then this will obviously limit your choices. There may be restrictions for other reasons such as the 3.92/manual. DC obviously can't empty their parts bins for Dak orders and leave Durango orders unfilled. I got lucky and found one on the lot that was close enough to what I wanted. I also had a truck to trade in that was decreasing in value every month that I kept it. Not to mention taking the chance that something major may go wrong after 72k miles.
  • rotondimrotondim Member Posts: 27
    jwm2, Andy Jordan, gsx750f:
    Thanks for the responses. I am from New Jersey so it does get cold but that's relative... I also checked the specs from Edmunds site and found no conflicts for option Z5B but if you look at AutoSite.com it eludes to the Full Time Transfer Case(DHC) and 3.92 Axle ratio(DMH). The dealer gave me a print out of my options, on the sheet is the following:

    Z5B-1800# payload, 600# GVWR....
    11"x2" rear drum breaks(w/23_ or 26_Powertrain, DMH Axle Ratio REQ:DSA Sure Grip Axle)

    SURE GRIP AXLE NOT DESIRED
    DMH-3.92 Axle ratio(w/26_Powertrain REQ:DHC Full-time Transfer Case or DSA Sure Grip Axle)

    This certainly is confusing...!!!

    Andy, I thought that the 3.55 Axle ratio was a better choice for gas mileage and being I'm looking at the V8 I thought that wouldn't be a problem. From your note it appears you recommend the 3.92.

    Of course with all the hub bub about foaming on the 4.7 I'm wondering if it's a good idea.
  • crooscroos Member Posts: 2
    Does the full time transfer case in the new Dakota have a low range?
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    Can't add much on the restrictions I'm afraid - because I just don't know why this is a problem. One thing does occur to me though - it looks like you need the full time transfer case or the limited slip diff (I assume that is what the sure grip axle is). That might solve the transfer case problem.

    3.55 vs. 3.92 (apologies to anyone who has heard this before). 3.55 will give you better gas mileage, 3.92 will give you better acceleration and towing capabilities. On the other hand, if you take the 31x10.5 tires in conjunction with the 3.92 you have close to the same effective ratio that you had with the 3.55 and stock tires. Of course you could also put the larger tires on the 3.55 and have even lower ratio. For me there is just one choice - 3.92 with 31x10.5, but that is because of what I want the truck to do.

    croos - as far as I'm aware there is a low range in the full time transfer case - can't imagine why there wouldn't be. Mind you I can't imagine why anyone would buy a full time transfer case either.
  • crazycanukcrazycanuk Member Posts: 1
    I'm ordering a 2000 Dakota Quad cab sport 4x4, and
    up here in the great Canadian north it's a 16 week wait. Hope it's worth the wait!! I test drove one a few days ago,and loved it . It's nothing like My old 91 power wagon,mind you that truck would go anywhere. If anyone's got comments on the 2000 Dakota's drop me a line. thank's Crazycanuk
  • themacguythemacguy Member Posts: 417
    I guess I'm just reaching a little here, but as I recall from my racing days with Vettes, we had a tow truck with 400 small block and high rise oil filler. I don't remember any foam, just a little oily vapor after towing 600 miles each way to a race (all in Texas) - I believe I remember 'breather caps' on the valve cover(s), and I'm sure one was on that filler tube. Since the new engines have these magnesium valve covers for emissions and what not, why wouldn't a similar cap on top of the oil filler tube work? At least until inspection; then, replace with OEM. It seems to me that 'breathing' is what these engines require.

    As I live in West Texas (it was 84 here today: rode my Midnight Special to the courts, played tennis, got sunburned) maybe the foaming thing will manifest itself in the 'higher' summer humidity (about 50%) readings; otherwise, I've not seen (in mine) or heard of this problem. Or the ticking. Or the weird transmission shifting I've read about. I drive the Quad at speeds of 80 to 90 to our oil/gas lease about 75 miles from here twice a week. Absolutely no problems to date - except the speed limiter (which I've remedied).
    ;->
  • antonyantony Member Posts: 46
    From what I have seen, the full-time xfer case has
    4 lever positions. from front to back, they are:

    4WD-LO N 4WD 4WD-LOCK

    the "4WD" position is driving both axles thru an open differential at a front/rear 48/52% torque split. This is the "normal" position for the xfer
    case. The "4WD-LOCK" position locks the xfer case
    and therefore is the traditional "part-time" 4WD
    position.
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    Makes sense to me.

    themacguy,

    Makes sense to me too - all the foaming is (I believe) is condensed vapor. A breather would therefore work, but omay cause emissions issues. Pragmatically, I'm not sure how big a deal the foaming is with regular oil changes - but that's just me.
  • crooscroos Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Antony. What are the thoughts out here on a full time transfer case vs a part time. I like to Elk hunt and use the low range quite a bit for climbing and desending hills?
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    And just how did you perform the surgery to "cure" the speed (RPM?) limiter. I would like to know if you care to share that piece of information.

    Bookitty
  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    I don't like full time 4wd. As antony pointed out the only difference in the transfer case is a 4wd (open) option instead of a 2wd option. You still need to shift into 4wd lock, whether high or low.

    As bookitty pointed out, full time 4wd tends to impact efficiency and can increase wear of tires and the 4wd system. To my mind the additional cost (to buy and ongoing) isn't worthwhile for the minimal benefit. I haven't yet found a situation where I was 'surprised' so quickly by conditions that I couldn't shift to 4wd in time.

    If 4wd systems are not shift on the fly I can see a lot more benefit, but given the ease with which we can shift I don't see the need.

    All that said it was immaterial for me anyway as you will never catch me driving an automatic.
  • rotondimrotondim Member Posts: 27
    I am interested in purchasing a Dakota CC 4x4. This will be my primary transportation but I
    will not be using the truck for towing anything
    other than a stump grinder or firewood splitter,
    once every couple of years maybe, which I assume I
    can use the bumper for this light work. The truck
    will primarly be used for weekend lawn work, mulch, and the local lumber yard as well as an occasional trip for firewood. I was planning on going for the 4.7 V8/Auto but with all the talk about foaming and engine ticking I wonder if the 3.9 V6/Auto would suit me just fine. The truck may also be used on the beach to get to the many good fishing spots New Jersey has to offer. Any input would certainly be appreciated. Thanks to all.
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    rotondim, the ticking is not the engine, its something in the dash area.

    also i wanted to get an idea of what you guys are getting on your trucks, i have a quad, 4x2, 4.7, auto, 3.92 rear and at 55 mph my rpm is 2000, whats yours? and also have any of you reached 3000 miles yet, they said at 3000 my rpm would drop from 600rpm to 500 rpm, which it has done but it also will sometimes be 700 or 600 rpm, kinda confused.

    thanks,

    robert
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Rotie, I have a beach house on LBI (Loveladies) and although I do not personally drive on the beach to any extent, I have "rescued" my son and his friends in their Jeep Wranglers (my wife has one as well). That's when they forget to lower the air pressure in the tires to about 15 PSI. On soft sand that will get you every time. With the ratio of weight per horsepower to consider, remember that the Nissan Frontier Crew Cab is running @ 170 HP. In reviews, the one point that most reviewers have made, is that the 3.3 is a bit light in the area of power. It runs out of steam. Especially with the automatic, you may want to consider the 4.7. If you keep the vehicle for a few years, you may make a decision today that you have to live with for a great many tomorrows. I would not be too upset about the foaming, because it may manifest itself from anything from temperature change to a special additive (had this problem in hydraulic systems and it turned out to be the wrong spec for the hydraulic system). Limited slip rear axle would be another good choice to make to gain more tractive effort in the sand (as well as during inclement weather conditions). This forum is a good place to exchange and access information. There are places on the internet where one can view and/print invoice pricing on vehicles and accessory options, and that helps keep the dealer "honest".
  • rotondimrotondim Member Posts: 27
    bookitty, thanks for the advice. I suppoose I'll try and weather the storm. I've been to several sites on the net to get invoice info which I will use to purchase the vehicle. I did call Chrysler, using the 800 number from a previous posting - thanks, and I was told that it is "safer" to go with the 3.92/Anti Slip Differential if you also will be getting the Tire and Handling Package with the 4.7. I suppose I'll have to do some more negotiating, it's only money. Thanks again.
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Rotie, try www.carpoint.com for pricing. You can work your way around it, and it will give you MSRP and invoice pricing. It can be printed as well. There is a way to establish a URL that you could just click on, but I don't know how to do that. I wish that I did know how to insert one. Any problems, let us know.

    Bookitty
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