At long last, I am beginning to see the light at the end of the tunnel, and it is not an oncoming freight train. I spoke with Ernie this A.M. @ Daimler/Chrysler, and my unit is status "D" and is scheduled to be built the first week in March. He provided me with the VIN and suggested that I speak with him the week of the 02/21 for further update. I am a happy camper. Thank you very much for your continuing input and edification along with education.
Glad to see your Quad is getting closer. I've been following your posts for awhile. It seems that you personally have been calling DC to check on your order status rather than going through your saleman at the dealer. Is this a personal preference, or the only way you can find out what's going on? If you have addressed this before, forgive me. I am supposed to call back to get the VON number this week on my Quad and wondering whether after this I should try contacting the dealer or just bypass them and call a service rep at DC? Any input from the experienced would be appreciated.
I just received my 2000 Dakota in mid January... Just graduated from college and spoiled myself w/ this awesome truck. I loaded this 4.7l,4x4, Club,SLT,lim-slip with almost everything. I have been following these discussions for quite a while and all of your comments have been very useful. I too, have idling fluctuations, clicking noises up-front... not worried, only 1500mi. On the other hand, when I touch the breaks at slow speads there is often a "creaking" noise, as well as when I let off. I haven't noticed this noise when I break at higher speeds. It only appears to be a noise and haven't noticed any braking problems. It's made this noise pretty much from the get-go. Probably should get it checked out, but would appreciate any input you may have...
(jsnesset) That sure is a great gift for a college grad. Let me take a stab at diagnosing your screeching noise. I need more info first... Is this a one-time sound when you push then again when you release the pedal? Does this creaking sound continue as long as the pedal is depressed?Does It occour even when the vehicle is not even moving?
I am not an engine technician, but I will add my two pesos. Back in the old days, pre-ignition was also called "dieseling" because of the way a diesel engine self-ignites. Maybe terminology was poor,and maybe the terms are now differentiated because of new ignition technology. In the old days we had something called points and condenser, and we would adjust things like distributor advance, adjust two screws in the carbeurator (sp?) for a better running fuel mixture, and the only computers were mainframes that IBM sold to NASA for rocket ships (LOL).
One thing that truly confuses me now. Used to be, higher octane gas was considered of better quality due to the octane and additives. While I realize that cars designed on 87 octane (regular) do not NEED 92-plus octane, I cannot understand why dealer mechanics tell me that higher octane fuel will HARM the engine. Isn't that like saying that you can live on junk food, but the better quality of organic food will harm you? Why do they say that?
Lastly, remember when the only unleaded fuel was Amoco High Test (aka White gas), and anything would run on it because it was so good? Even before the days of catalytic converters and all unleaded fuel. If Amoco could make unleaded high test, why couldn't everybody? Reminisce!!!
Bob, I go back much further than that. I have rocks in my garden that I remember as loose dirt. I don't know what octane rating Amoco produces but most fuels come in various octanes and all (or most all) are unleaded. Things get confusing with emission ratings, etc. My outboard used to be rated @ 140 HP, but in order to pass emission standards, it was derated to 130 HP. Same engine, different music.
-- The noise begins when I press on the brakes and is not a continuous sound, more like "creeaakk... creak...... creeeeeeaaaak..." and continues until I completely let off the brake.
-- It does not make any noise when the truck is motionless. I can't hear any noise, say, braking at 60mph down to 40mph either.
-- The noise almost sounds like a squeaky spring being pressed in and then being released (suspension?? ...but it just doesn't seem like it).
Given the informative posts by a number of people in this thread re: octane, I have started a thread in the maintenance conference, #1036, as we all buy fuel and it is a significant vehicle expense. Dealer whom I ordered from 1/17 is "hopeful" re: commencement of build but no VON# yet.
I know aLL fuel is unleaded NOW, I am referring back to the muscle car days, when Sunoco 260 had 5 lbs of lead per gallon for an octane rating of 106, and Amoco High Test was an aberration as the only unleaded fuel, back before anyone knew what a catalytic converter was.
May be one of few Quad buyers actually a member b4 even thinking of buying a dodge. Joined because of much cheaper home insurance rates through Nationwide. Here in PA, the bureau does excellent lobbying work for the small farmer. They publish a semi-monthly newsletter. While I don't make my living farming, I do have a variety of pastured animals. One of many pieces of legislation they are attempting to pass is to attempt to alleviate the beer/soda cans and bottles flipped into our fields by passing literbugs. These kill numbers of domestic animals every year, not to mention time/labor to clean up. I would encourage those who have joined for the rebate to take the time to read their newsletters. Maybe some will continue to pay the annual dues. Bookkitty- Thanks for the soap box.
Thanks much for confirming the fix and providing the TSB that covers the fix- I and many others look forward to getting the ticking fixed.
Any nice Dealer folks out there willing to send me the details of the mdification so that I can fix it myself. I hate to take it in for a .2 hr job plus - I would like to be aware of what wiring changes are being done to my vehicle. Not to mention I would like to ensure the replacement wire is soldered and properly shrink wrapped/sealed.
(myersed) YES! You must have experienced the wrath of using those worthless clamp-on connectors in an automobile electrical system. They sure are convienient/fast and almost all mechanics use them... but they reduce the current-carrying capabilities of the wire and provide access for corrosive moisture.
I can tell you that I am impressed with my Dak in this reguard. I was fully prepared to solder all ground connections under the hood but upon inspection, I found them to be allready solderd. The ground points were also filed to provide positive wire -to- body contact. (In Vermont, the road-salt quickly reduces any poor connection into a green dust [Copper Oxide])
Can't believe how this was bugging me; drove all over today and the clicking sound is definitely gone; hope it works for you guys. By the way I think the shut down is about 95 mph, with automatic with overdrive "Off" Glanced at the tach and even with overdrive "off" I was nowhere near red let alone yellow line; should check it out but maybe a little less than 5 grand on the tach, with std axle ratio, think that would be a 3.15? Would appreciate info on this. Houts.
(jsnesset) It is iteresting that you note that it sounds like a squeaky spring. This was my initial thought too. Drum brakes are filled with springs that may squeek/creek at times. Characteristically, drum brake noises will occour while vehicle is motionless when the brake shoes move back and forth. (Pedal push/release)
Your description may be indicitive of another source for the noises. Not a problem but still annoying. Since your Dak is still relitivly new the brake surfaces may still be "bedding in". Try this... Try some hard braking while moving in reverse. 2 or 3 times may be sufficent. (Drum brakes with star adjusters will ONLY autoadjust when stopping in reverse. The shoes move a little bit and 'cock' a spring that turns the star wheel when you release the brake pedal.)
I have read about several Daks where the rear brakes were not suffeciently / properly adjusted. Anyone that has worked on drum brakes will tell you that anytime drum brakes are new/rebuilt that one has to set the automatic adjusters... In most cases (US made) hard braking in reverse is the procedure. Some designs will auto-adjust when the parking brake is used. (VW, HONDA, others use a springloaded wedge instead of a star wheel adjuster)
brakes on installed on more and more cars, including those light in the rear end (I wish I was light in the rear end, lol), why are they waiting so damn long to put them on trucks? Notice, you now find them on Silverado, and S-10 4WD only. They are trickling down to trucks, but they should putthem on ALL trucks, so no 1970s "backing up" to set your brakes. I have not owned a passenger car since 1985 that did not have 4-wheel discs. Most SUVs, built on truck frames (just stating the obvious) come with 4-wheel disc. Ford puts it on Explorer/Expedition but not on F-150/F-250? Very illogical, if you ask me. More safety in braking, and save cost of manufacture, if all had same brakes. Do you agree?
I thought that a catalytic converter was when you took your kitty to the veterinarian to have it spayed or altered. My, how much we learn by reading the topics in this forum.
Can anyone tell me if the anti-spin differential option on the Dakota is a limited slip or a locking differential? What is the difference between the two?
I was wondering what, if any problems people were experiencing with 2000 Dakotas. I'm interested in getting:
2000 Dakota Club Cab w/ SLT package SLT Plus package 4 Wheel ABS 4.7L V8 Multispeed auto ( 45RFE ) 3.55 Anti-spin differential Cloth Bench Seat Sliding Rear Glass Trailer Towing Package 6x9" power mirrors Fog Lamps AM/FM CD Player
Are the 4 wheel ABS brakes worth the expense? Are there any problems with it? Does the A/C do an adequate job of cooling the cab quickly? How does the stereo sound? Do the fog lamps really help in the fog? Can I get the heavy duty engine cooling with the trailer towing package? How's the 45RFE transmission? How's the 4.7L V8? What kind of gas mileage can I expect? How are the handling and acceleration? Thanks.
I got a copy of the TSB and like John Houtslaw, am a little confused as to how or why it would work. Either way here is a summary of the fix.
The item modified is a ground strap that connects to an extended threaded bolt on the firewall. It is located on the passenger side within 3 inches of the Accumlator and is located within 3" from the top of the firewall. If viewing the firewall from the front of the truck, it appears just to the right of the accumulator.
The steps to follow (like John stated) are: 1) Remove the nut and detatch the ground strap- it has a lug installed 2) carefully stip back a 2" of section of insulation from the strap 3) reinstall and tighten to 9 Nm (80 in lbs (not ft lbs)
I have not accomplished the insulation removal thus far but I did some checks. The Lugged terminal is properly crimped to the shield, so it is not an issue. I was really confused about the need to strip back insulation and just reinstall it. I did however notice that there were 2 additional ground straps passing within 1/2" of the lugged connection. One of these is a braided shield without insulation, the other an insulated ground wire. These 2 wires pass by this lug and eventually terminate on the pasenger fender.
So why strip back the insulation? I don't know. Is it to allow the passing unshielded wire to establish contact? Does it promote its ability to pick up static charge in the engine compartment and properly ground it.
One additional test made everything really confusing. Using the Ground post of the battery as my reference, I checked the resistance from the battery to the various ground strap termination bolts on the firewalls and the fenders- 1.3 ohms. Thought that to be a little high. Then checked it against a lug on the drivers inner fender- 1.7 ohms. A quick check to the motor block was .8 ohms. All of these seemed a little high but I have not had time to confirm other readings. Yes- the meter is accurate and calibrated and I realize that I should expect some slight resistance.
Anyway, instead of stripping the insulation from the ground wire, I temporarily attached a 6" piece of braided shield to the lug and wrapped it around the ungrounded shielded wire that was routed alongside.
bpeebles- I wasn't sure if the manual schematics were detailed enough to provide answers to the following : 1) the ground wire connecting to the firewall (the one that should be stripped of 2" of insulation) is labeled "D". Any idea what it goes to?
Also, both the unshielded Groundstrap and the paralleling insulated ground wire that is routed adjacent to the "D" labeled wire, appears to have a label of "L" or "LU". This wire pair eventually terminates at a bolt on the passenger inner fender.
(marsha7) The Explorer/Expidetion is based on a CAR... the Dakota is a TRUCK! Drum brakes are superior to disk under many conditions. A truck encounters these conditions when being used as a TRUCK. (Knee-deep in muck with a load of haybales for the heifers) (Loaded with sand to be spread on the driveway) (being able to stop when towing a bulldoder on a triple-axle trailer)
(myersed) Excellent troubleshooting! Anything >1.0ohms is too much! Make sure the negative terminal of the battery is removed during ohms measurements... otherwise current-loops will cause inaccuracies.
Another (More advanced) technique is to take VOLTAGE measurements with a sensitive instrument. Base the black probe on the battery negative terminal and use the red probe to test various ground points... higher readings mean poorer ground contact. Anything greater than 500Mv is to be considered suspect.
This gives real-time/dynamic readings under load. Turn on headlights/other electric's to create current in the wires under test for more accurate results. (If you want to be really technical... ohms law is r*i=e and we know 'r' should be 0.0ohms and the 'i' is the current in the wires... we are measureing 'e', you can see that e will go up exponentially if the contact is poor)
I will review the service manual for ground termination points.
The Dakota has a limited slip differential option, not a locker. The difference, at the risk of stating the obvious is that one allows slippage and one doesn't.
To go to anti-spin differentials 101 for a minute (apologies to anyone for whom I am stating the obvious - and yes I know I am oversimplifying), a differential allows the wheel on one side of a vehicle to move more than the wheel on the same axle but on the other side of the truck. This is obviously necessary when cornering when the outside wheel needs to travel further than the inside wheel.
This can be a disadvantage however - if one side of the truck is on ice then the wheels on that side will happily spin in a traditional application whilst the other side sits still. So depsite the fact that at least one driving wheel has traction you go nowhere. This is called an open differential.
A limited slip differential will only allow one wheel to spin a maximum number of times faster than the other on the same axle. I don't know the figures off hand for the Dakota, but say that it is 3. That way if the right rear wheel is slipping then the limited slip differential will force the left hand rear wheel to spin once for every three times the right hand wheel spins, thereby giving traction. Note that the factor is a maximum, not a set number.
A locking differential goes one stage further and forces both wheels to spin at the same rate - one revolution on the right equals one revolution on the left. This is the ultimate for traction, but can usually only be used at very slow speeds, and obviously cannot be used when turning. As a result the locker only engages when needed, the limilted slip is always engaged.
About 3 weeks ago I purchased a 2000 Dakota, 4x4, Club Cab, auto., 4.7L with all the bells and whistles - love it!
I already have 1200 miles it and, to this point, I have had no major problems. I did take it back to the dealership a week after my purchase after finding the heater temp. knob would not rotate all the way to the right, no paint under the PAX side door and some spotting and streaking defects in the paint on the hood and fenders. I was told the defects in paint were caused by the factory not letting the paint dry sufficiently before putting the clear coat on the surface. This trapped some of the oils causing discoloration. Anyway, all was fixed to my satisfaction. Mechanically, the truck has been flawless. A far cry from the 1998 GMC Sonoma Highrider I bought new a few years back. I had nothing but trouble with the truck from week one and I can say that my Dakota is FAR superior in quality to the Sonoma.
I have monitored this discussion for several weeks and I have some questions for all of you.
In regard to the "clicking," how obvious is it for some of you? I have yet to notice any obvious clicking of my engine which leads me to believe my engine may have been made after the '99 date mentioned above. Believe me, I am very aware of any unusual noises so I was just wondering if I need waste my time to get it fixed if I don't hear anything.
Also, I just changed my oil and filter this past weekend and, as directed by Dodge, refilled it with 6 qts. After driving around a bit afterwards, I checked the oil level and found it to show about a quart or so over the "safe" mark. Has anybody else experienced this as well? By the way, I used the proper MOPAR filter. I am not a mechanic by any means but I know overfilling the engine with oil can cause foaming so could this be a cause of some of the foaming that I have also encountered in the oil filler neck like some others have experienced as well?
I am pretty new to this discussion group but I have read the whole Dakota II and 3.55 vs. 3.92 threads and still cannot figure out the axle ratio thing. So far this is my (simplified) summary:
3.92 Faster off the line Better towing
3.55 Better gas mileage
However, has anyone definitively figured out if there is a problem with coupling the 5-sp manual tranny to the 3.55? I am REALLY interested in ordering one of these puppies soon but am still hung up between the two axle ratios. I plan on getting the Tire and Handling group so that should neutralize some of the 3.92 axle's gas guzzling. However, with the T&H group, will I see a slow start or problems with durability with the 3.55? Hearing from owners with either combo about power and gas mileage would be perfect. I would appreciate any input. Maybe no one really knows?
I will be using the truck for weekend hauling, light towing, and general transit so I am interested in gas mileage but not at the expense of dependability or fun!
Thanks everyone, this forum has taught me a lot about this great truck!
dont know what problem your referring to when coupling the 5-sp to the 3.55. this is the combo i have and haven't experienced any problems. as far as being slow (off the line - i presume this is what you mean) the 3.55 is low enough (gearing), that i often start out in second gear. the tire and handling group will have no effect on gas mileage since all the package adds is a stabilizer bar and fatter rims & tires - tires which are essentially the same diameter as others available for the 2wd. now if your getting a 4wd (you didn't mention if you're getting a 4wd or 2wd)with the t&h group i would go for the 3.92 because the tire's diameter is so much larger with the 4wd t&h group (30.5" vs 28") it effectively decreases the gear ratio to ~ 3.7 - a popular ratio for trucks. btw, i get ~16mpg in mixed driving with a 99 2wd, club cab, slt+, 318v-8 (wish i had the 4.7l), lsd, t&h group. (adding a tonneau cover improved mileage about 1mpg.) good luck!
The truck I ordered is equipped with 4.7, 5 speed and a limited slip 3.55. I tow occasionally, a 5X8 utility trailer with 15" wheels. The items I tow are well within the specifications as set by Dodge. I also have the tire and handling package. If you tow more often, and have heavier loads or hilly terrain the 3.92 may be in order. As I use my truck to go back and forth to our beach house in NJ (a distance of 67 miles over relatively flat terrain) I considered a combination that offers mileage advantage. If I were to utilize the vehicle for towing and/or hauling on a more or less regular basis, I would opt for the 3.92. This is only my humble opinion, and there is a great deal of expertise on this forum, far superior to mine. I don't foresee any particular problem with the 3.55 as far as durability if you remain within the guidelines.
Bookitty: I think you are referring to the old philosophical maxim: my karma just ran over your dogma.
Bpeebles: I was under the impression that disc brakes were always superior to drums, because the drums could expand under heavy pressure, whereas the harder you step on discs, the calipers just squeeze harder and firmer (up to the strength limits of the caliper not bursting). Also, even though you state that Explorer/Expedition is to be used as a car, it is still a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck chassis, regardless of the body or luxury items installed. Am I correct, or have I missed a boat somewhere?
Anyone know if there are any websites which have vehicle electrical schematics for download??? The dealer manuals are too damn expensive and I don't have a warm and fuzzy feeling about the aftermarket books. (Have purchased many over the years and thought they were too general and vague. My problem needs a manual specific to the model.)
By the way, I have a 94 SLT ext.cab 4x4 with 83k and I've had <average luck with it. Defroster problem since day 1, replaced u-joint (48k), radiator (55k), and front axle seals 4 times. (yes, 4!!) The front axles were also replaced the last time too. Fortunately, the first 4 times were covered under the 7/70k warranty, but they're leaking again and it looks like it's all me this time!$!$!$!$
I now have an electrical problem with the steering column wiring. Several weeks ago, I set the tilt wheel at the lowest position and the heater fan and power windows quit working and the air bag warning light came on the moment I locked it in place. I've practically torn the dash apart trying to trace wiring, but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated.
penda says that they have had no complaints about the tailgate cover rubbing the paint off on the outside edge of the liner, i am still bickering with them, the warranty states that they do not cover paint scuffing and scratching in the bed, hahahaha this is outside the bed, so they are looking into the technicalities. i know a few people that have had theirs scratched, anyone else?
took truck in today for the ticking tsb, i should have it back tomorrow, also getting 2nd oil change and tires rotated. since its there i am having them go over all tsb's and also over the brake system i.e. rotors and so on, ya never know.
Just ordered the 4.7 with auto, 4x4 limited slip Quad Cab. Thanks much to you all for your insights.
Now on to the important stuff. This is my first truck, (ditching the sports car), and am feeling this strange desire to accessorize the thing already. I have the tonneau cover picked out as well as the bed liner.
Question is, what about those bug deflectors on the front of the hood. Do they actually work? Are they worth it?
Just ordered the 4.7 with auto, 4x4 limited slip Quad Cab. Thanks much to you all for your insights.
Now on to the important stuff. This is my first truck, (ditching the sports car), and am feeling this strange desire to accessorize the thing already. I have the tonneau cover picked out as well as the bed liner.
Question is, what about those bug deflectors on the front of the hood. Do they actually work? Are they worth it?
party time, i can drive and hear that sweet little 4.7 whisper down the road and roar when i ask it, and its all thanks to (houtslaw), that tsb fixed my ticking and my truck is so quiet i cant believe its the same truck, the dealer was so confused that this would actually work, but whammo, ticky gone, ticky gone gone.
the tsb is for trucks with the 4.7 made before nov 23rd 1999, so go get this done now, it will change your whole outlook on your truck.
My mail via my home ISP is not working, so I had to shoot the message this way. Hope you got the info I sent you from work earlier today.
Handle measurements I took (if helpful) are: Measuring from the back window to the rear of the grab handle- 18 3/4 inches. The top of the rear window is lower than the handle mount so I held ruler horizontal and eyeballed the measurement. I'd put it at +/- 1/16"
The Handle was mounted approx. 1 3/4" above the bottom lip of the headliner. This was a little tricky to measure considering the bottom reference edge was not a distinct sharp edge. While sitting in the vehicle I lined up my eye to view along the bottom edge of the headliner (as it wrapped its way towards the outer edge of the door). I then took the measurement.
Thanks again for the TSB info. By the way, I temporarily installed a braided ground strap at the firewall mount (referenced in the TSB) and wrapped the strap around another braided cable that passed near the bolt. Yup! the ticking sound was substantially reduced. I can still hear it slightly at higher RPMs ( above 2500) but the noise level has been reduced by 80% or better.
I believe the tick was actually a high voltage /static discharge sourced from the spark, or injector circuit. I have not gotten to the bottom of this one to satisfy me. I will be pulling out my oscilloscope and looking for some interesting signals this weekend. Bottom Line- .8 ohms from the battery (-) terminal to the engine block is not acceptable and the "low-low- level" tick at high RPMs still haunts me!
(myersed)As promised, I have scrutenized the shop manual for the ground termination in question. I have also checked out the actual hardware on my Dakota.
Sorry to report that the shop manual does not specifically call out this ground point. Although I did see the tags on the wires on my Dak. (letter "F" and "D" if I recall) these do not match ANYTHING in the manual. Instead, the manual calls all ground points Gxxx (ie... G105, G107... etc) The nearest ground point that is pictured in the manual is the one on the fender. (on the other side of the accuulator from the ground point you mention)
I do have a question about the TSB you mention... DOes it say to simply strip the insulation?? Or is it saying to cut off the crimp-on connector then strip the insulation and capture the newly-bared wire where the original connector was placed? I am suspecting that this connector has the insulation inside the crimp. (Which would create a very poor connection)
Put mine on last night (25 degree weather, BAD IDEA). Now that it's on and I can think rationally again after that STRUGGLE, I like it a lot. :-) Ran my wife's hair dryer in the bed for about 90 minutes to warm things up enough to get the back snapped..
the tsb just says to remove the connector from the post and strip away 2 inches of insulation and replace (i watched my dealer do it and they left the insulation on under the crimp, but it looks solid so i will see what happens.
The procedure states to remove 2" of the insulation only. I too had the same suspicion until I inspected the terminal lug and noticed it is clearly crimped to wire. If you look closely, it has a 2 section crimp. The first section, closest to the terminal hole is crimpimg metal lug tangs to wire. The second section or tang of the lug is crimped around the wire and insulation together. Again, the procedure states:1) remove the wire, 2) "From the ground strap eyelet, measure back 2" and carefully remove the insulation surrounding the wire"- this sentence is verbatim. 3) Reinstall.
Bottom line- they are only exposing the 2 inches of the ground wire. It is not touching the firewall. As I mentioned, the only rationale I see is to expose the wire in order to allow it to make contact with the other wire that transitions across it. The transitioning wire is the one that finally terminates at the passenger fender. Ed
Have you by chance taken any resistance measurements? I know that you do not have the tick but, was just wondering if you took any for grins.
I am now wondering, what is unique about the engines made after 23 Nov? Is it the wiring, terminations etc. It states engines built before 23 Nov have the problem- not vehicles. The ground straps, wiring etc on the motor must come from the engine vendor already connected- leaving only the vehicle terminations once it is installed.
Where is the difference? Is it the wire type, is it the terminations at the engine, has a bleeding resistor been added to dissipate or bleed off a potential. Clearly bpeeble, I bet you don't have 2" of insulation stipped off of your wire, eh? I still don't think it is the official fix- I believe Chrysler has provided a band-aid
Yeah, the little bug deflectors work - several ways. First they keep bugs off the front of the hood where they cook & can eventually peel or discolor the paint. Second, they keep some bugs off the windshield - a good thing. And finally they keep little rocks & road debris from chipping most of the hood paint. I bought the Dodge brand. They fit good, have a neat white 'Dodge' logo on the left center, are invisible (except for that) on my black Quad, and the center (large part) installed in about 10-15 minutes. The side pieces are another matter and required about an hour to do properly; removing headlights & (awkwardly) drilling the pilot holes for the screws. I'd do it again, though. The results are worth it.
Also, if you're putting the gullwing (or a sealing type hard tonneau) on your Quad - watch out for the lip on the tailgate - might not fit flush w/o some trimming. By the way, make sure you (or they) put (at least) the wrapover part of the tailgate protector on with some proper double sided or foam tape to keep it from moving. We're all getting scratched paint (you can blame henne like I did, he won't mind) - thanks to some Dodge 'service guys' not reading the instructions & trying to save 2 minutes of precious shop time.
catnip2337 - recorded cd's will play if their filetype (format) is compatible with the cd - should be listed in your manual.
Thanks for the response, but have you tried using one one you Dakota CD player? My father has a 98 JGC with the same CD player and they don't work in it. Have they done a correction so that it now plays them? Many other stock CD players do play them so I hope that Chrysler stays up with the technology.
which one did you install, the bug deflector with fender sheilds, the hood cover, or the front end cover with bug screen? Looks from the picture that the latter two have the dodge emblem in white which appears centered.
does anyone remember someone saying that the valve covers will wear trough if the wiring looms are touching them because they are a lighter softer metal?
Comments
Bookitty
Is this a one-time sound when you push then again when you release the pedal? Does this creaking sound continue as long as the pedal is depressed?Does It occour even when the vehicle is not even moving?
One thing that truly confuses me now. Used to be, higher octane gas was considered of better quality due to the octane and additives. While I realize that cars designed on 87 octane (regular) do not NEED 92-plus octane, I cannot understand why dealer mechanics tell me that higher octane fuel will HARM the engine. Isn't that like saying that you can live on junk food, but the better quality of organic food will harm you? Why do they say that?
Lastly, remember when the only unleaded fuel was Amoco High Test (aka White gas), and anything would run on it because it was so good? Even before the days of catalytic converters and all unleaded fuel. If Amoco could make unleaded high test, why couldn't everybody? Reminisce!!!
Bookitty
-- The brakes are rear ABS only.
-- The noise begins when I press on the brakes and is not a continuous sound, more like "creeaakk... creak...... creeeeeeaaaak..." and continues until I completely let off the brake.
-- It does not make any noise when the truck is motionless. I can't hear any noise, say, braking at 60mph down to 40mph either.
-- The noise almost sounds like a squeaky spring being pressed in and then being released (suspension?? ...but it just doesn't seem like it).
Thanks again!
Dealer whom I ordered from 1/17 is "hopeful" re: commencement of build but no VON# yet.
I would encourage those who have joined for the rebate to take the time to read their newsletters. Maybe some will continue to pay the annual dues.
Bookkitty- Thanks for the soap box.
Any nice Dealer folks out there willing to send me the details of the mdification so that I can fix it myself. I hate to take it in for a .2 hr job plus - I would like to be aware of what wiring changes are being done to my vehicle. Not to mention I would like to ensure the replacement wire is soldered and properly shrink wrapped/sealed.
They sure are convienient/fast and almost all mechanics use them... but they reduce the current-carrying capabilities of the wire and provide access for corrosive moisture.
I can tell you that I am impressed with my Dak in this reguard. I was fully prepared to solder all ground connections under the hood but upon inspection, I found them to be allready solderd. The ground points were also filed to provide positive wire -to- body contact. (In Vermont, the road-salt quickly reduces any poor connection into a green dust [Copper Oxide])
Your description may be indicitive of another source for the noises. Not a problem but still annoying. Since your Dak is still relitivly new the brake surfaces may still be "bedding in". Try this... Try some hard braking while moving in reverse. 2 or 3 times may be sufficent. (Drum brakes with star adjusters will ONLY autoadjust when stopping in reverse. The shoes move a little bit and 'cock' a spring that turns the star wheel when you release the brake pedal.)
I have read about several Daks where the rear brakes were not suffeciently / properly adjusted.
Anyone that has worked on drum brakes will tell you that anytime drum brakes are new/rebuilt that one has to set the automatic adjusters... In most cases (US made) hard braking in reverse is the procedure. Some designs will auto-adjust when the parking brake is used. (VW, HONDA, others use a springloaded wedge instead of a star wheel adjuster)
Let us know how it works out.
Bookitty
2000 Dakota Club Cab w/
SLT package
SLT Plus package
4 Wheel ABS
4.7L V8
Multispeed auto ( 45RFE )
3.55 Anti-spin differential
Cloth Bench Seat
Sliding Rear Glass
Trailer Towing Package
6x9" power mirrors
Fog Lamps
AM/FM CD Player
Are the 4 wheel ABS brakes worth the expense? Are there any problems with it? Does the A/C do an adequate job of cooling the cab quickly? How does the stereo sound? Do the fog lamps really help in the fog? Can I get the heavy duty engine cooling with the trailer towing package? How's the 45RFE transmission? How's the 4.7L V8? What kind of gas mileage can I expect? How are the handling and acceleration? Thanks.
Sam
The item modified is a ground strap that connects to an extended threaded bolt on the firewall. It is located on the passenger side within 3 inches of the Accumlator and is located within 3" from the top of the firewall. If viewing the firewall from the front of the truck, it appears just to the right of the accumulator.
The steps to follow (like John stated) are:
1) Remove the nut and detatch the ground strap- it has a lug installed
2) carefully stip back a 2" of section of insulation from the strap
3) reinstall and tighten to 9 Nm (80 in lbs (not ft lbs)
I have not accomplished the insulation removal thus far but I did some checks. The Lugged terminal is properly crimped to the shield, so it is not an issue. I was really confused about the need to strip back insulation and just reinstall it. I did however notice that there were 2 additional ground straps passing within 1/2" of the lugged connection. One of these is a braided shield without insulation, the other an insulated ground wire. These 2 wires pass by this lug and eventually terminate on the pasenger fender.
So why strip back the insulation? I don't know. Is it to allow the passing unshielded wire to establish contact? Does it promote its ability to pick up static charge in the engine compartment and properly ground it.
One additional test made everything really confusing. Using the Ground post of the battery as my reference, I checked the resistance from the battery to the various ground strap termination bolts on the firewalls and the fenders- 1.3 ohms. Thought that to be a little high. Then checked it against a lug on the drivers inner fender- 1.7 ohms. A quick check to the motor block was .8 ohms. All of these seemed a little high but I have not had time to confirm other readings. Yes- the meter is accurate and calibrated and I realize that I should expect some slight resistance.
Anyway, instead of stripping the insulation from the ground wire, I temporarily attached a 6" piece of braided shield to the lug and wrapped it around the ungrounded shielded wire that was routed alongside.
bpeebles- I wasn't sure if the manual schematics were detailed enough to provide answers to the following :
1) the ground wire connecting to the firewall (the one that should be stripped of 2" of insulation) is labeled "D". Any idea what it goes to?
Also, both the unshielded Groundstrap and the paralleling insulated ground wire that is routed adjacent to the "D" labeled wire, appears to have a label of "L" or "LU". This wire pair eventually terminates at a bolt on the passenger inner fender.
Ed
Drum brakes are superior to disk under many conditions. A truck encounters these conditions when being used as a TRUCK. (Knee-deep in muck with a load of haybales for the heifers) (Loaded with sand to be spread on the driveway) (being able to stop when towing a bulldoder on a triple-axle trailer)
Another (More advanced) technique is to take VOLTAGE measurements with a sensitive instrument. Base the black probe on the battery negative terminal and use the red probe to test various ground points... higher readings mean poorer ground contact. Anything greater than 500Mv is to be considered suspect.
This gives real-time/dynamic readings under load. Turn on headlights/other electric's to create current in the wires under test for more accurate results.
(If you want to be really technical... ohms law is r*i=e and we know 'r' should be 0.0ohms and the 'i' is the current in the wires... we are measureing 'e', you can see that e will go up exponentially if the contact is poor)
I will review the service manual for ground termination points.
The Dakota has a limited slip differential option, not a locker. The difference, at the risk of stating the obvious is that one allows slippage and one doesn't.
To go to anti-spin differentials 101 for a minute (apologies to anyone for whom I am stating the obvious - and yes I know I am oversimplifying), a differential allows the wheel on one side of a vehicle to move more than the wheel on the same axle but on the other side of the truck. This is obviously necessary when cornering when the outside wheel needs to travel further than the inside wheel.
This can be a disadvantage however - if one side of the truck is on ice then the wheels on that side will happily spin in a traditional application whilst the other side sits still. So depsite the fact that at least one driving wheel has traction you go nowhere. This is called an open differential.
A limited slip differential will only allow one wheel to spin a maximum number of times faster than the other on the same axle. I don't know the figures off hand for the Dakota, but say that it is 3. That way if the right rear wheel is slipping then the limited slip differential will force the left hand rear wheel to spin once for every three times the right hand wheel spins, thereby giving traction. Note that the factor is a maximum, not a set number.
A locking differential goes one stage further and forces both wheels to spin at the same rate - one revolution on the right equals one revolution on the left. This is the ultimate for traction, but can usually only be used at very slow speeds, and obviously cannot be used when turning. As a result the locker only engages when needed, the limilted slip is always engaged.
Hope this helps.
Andy
I already have 1200 miles it and, to this point, I have had no major problems. I did take it back to the dealership a week after my purchase after finding the heater temp. knob would not rotate all the way to the right, no paint under the PAX side door and some spotting and streaking defects in the paint on the hood and fenders. I was told the defects in paint were caused by the factory not letting the paint dry sufficiently before putting the clear coat on the surface. This trapped some of the oils causing discoloration. Anyway, all was fixed to my satisfaction. Mechanically, the truck has been flawless. A far cry from the 1998 GMC Sonoma Highrider I bought new a few years back. I had nothing but trouble with the truck from week one and I can say that my Dakota is FAR superior in quality to the Sonoma.
I have monitored this discussion for several weeks and I have some questions for all of you.
In regard to the "clicking," how obvious is it for some of you? I have yet to notice any obvious clicking of my engine which leads me to believe my engine may have been made after the '99 date mentioned above. Believe me, I am very aware of any unusual noises so I was just wondering if I need waste my time to get it fixed if I don't hear anything.
Also, I just changed my oil and filter this past weekend and, as directed by Dodge, refilled it with 6 qts. After driving around a bit afterwards, I checked the oil level and found it to show about a quart or so over the "safe" mark. Has anybody else experienced this as well? By the way, I used the proper MOPAR filter. I am not a mechanic by any means but I know overfilling the engine with oil can cause foaming so could this be a cause of some of the foaming that I have also encountered in the oil filler neck like some others have experienced as well?
Any input is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Chris
3.92
Faster off the line
Better towing
3.55
Better gas mileage
However, has anyone definitively figured out if there is a problem with coupling the 5-sp manual tranny to the 3.55? I am REALLY interested in ordering one of these puppies soon but am still hung up between the two axle ratios. I plan on getting the Tire and Handling group so that should neutralize some of the 3.92 axle's gas guzzling. However, with the T&H group, will I see a slow start or problems with durability with the 3.55? Hearing from owners with either combo about power and gas mileage would be perfect. I would appreciate any input. Maybe no one really knows?
I will be using the truck for weekend hauling, light towing, and general transit so I am interested in gas mileage but not at the expense of dependability or fun!
Thanks everyone, this forum has taught me a lot about this great truck!
Bookitty
Bpeebles: I was under the impression that disc brakes were always superior to drums, because the drums could expand under heavy pressure, whereas the harder you step on discs, the calipers just squeeze harder and firmer (up to the strength limits of the caliper not bursting). Also, even though you state that Explorer/Expedition is to be used as a car, it is still a 1/2 or 3/4 ton truck chassis, regardless of the body or luxury items installed. Am I correct, or have I missed a boat somewhere?
By the way, I have a 94 SLT ext.cab 4x4 with 83k and I've had <average luck with it. Defroster problem since day 1, replaced u-joint (48k), radiator (55k), and front axle seals 4 times. (yes, 4!!) The front axles were also replaced the last time too. Fortunately, the first 4 times were covered under the 7/70k warranty, but they're leaking again and it looks like it's all me this time!$!$!$!$
I now have an electrical problem with the steering column wiring. Several weeks ago, I set the tilt wheel at the lowest position and the heater fan and power windows quit working and the air bag warning light came on the moment I locked it in place. I've practically torn the dash apart trying to trace wiring, but to no avail. Any help would be appreciated.
the tailgate cover rubbing the paint off on the
outside edge of the liner, i am still bickering
with them, the warranty states that they do not
cover paint scuffing and scratching in the bed,
hahahaha this is outside the bed, so they are
looking into the technicalities. i know a few
people that have had theirs scratched, anyone else?
robert
have it back tomorrow, also getting 2nd oil change
and tires rotated. since its there i am having them
go over all tsb's and also over the brake system
i.e. rotors and so on, ya never know.
robert
Now on to the important stuff. This is my first truck, (ditching the sports car), and am feeling this strange desire to accessorize the thing already. I have the tonneau cover picked out as well as the bed liner.
Question is, what about those bug deflectors on the front of the hood. Do they actually work? Are they worth it?
Now on to the important stuff. This is my first truck, (ditching the sports car), and am feeling this strange desire to accessorize the thing already. I have the tonneau cover picked out as well as the bed liner.
Question is, what about those bug deflectors on the front of the hood. Do they actually work? Are they worth it?
the tsb is for trucks with the 4.7 made before nov 23rd 1999, so go get this done now, it will change your whole outlook on your truck.
robert
Handle measurements I took (if helpful) are:
Measuring from the back window to the rear of the grab handle- 18 3/4 inches. The top of the rear window is lower than the handle mount so I held ruler horizontal and eyeballed the measurement. I'd put it at +/- 1/16"
The Handle was mounted approx. 1 3/4" above the bottom lip of the headliner. This was a little tricky to measure considering the bottom reference edge was not a distinct sharp edge. While sitting in the vehicle I lined up my eye to view along the bottom edge of the headliner (as it wrapped its way towards the outer edge of the door). I then took the measurement.
Thanks again for the TSB info. By the way, I temporarily installed a braided ground strap at the firewall mount (referenced in the TSB) and wrapped the strap around another braided cable that passed near the bolt. Yup! the ticking sound was substantially reduced. I can still hear it slightly at higher RPMs ( above 2500) but the noise level has been reduced by 80% or better.
I believe the tick was actually a high voltage /static discharge sourced from the spark, or injector circuit. I have not gotten to the bottom of this one to satisfy me. I will be pulling out my oscilloscope and looking for
some interesting signals this weekend. Bottom Line- .8 ohms from the battery (-) terminal to the engine block is not acceptable and the "low-low- level" tick at high RPMs still haunts me!
Sorry to report that the shop manual does not specifically call out this ground point. Although I did see the tags on the wires on my Dak. (letter "F" and "D" if I recall) these do not match ANYTHING in the manual. Instead, the manual calls all ground points Gxxx (ie... G105, G107... etc) The nearest ground point that is pictured in the manual is the one on the fender. (on the other side of the accuulator from the ground point you mention)
I do have a question about the TSB you mention...
DOes it say to simply strip the insulation?? Or is it saying to cut off the crimp-on connector then strip the insulation and capture the newly-bared wire where the original connector was placed? I am suspecting that this connector has the insulation inside the crimp. (Which would create a very poor connection)
-Curt
robert
Bottom line- they are only exposing the 2 inches of the ground wire. It is not touching the firewall. As I mentioned, the only rationale I see is to expose the wire in order to allow it to make contact with the other wire that transitions across it. The transitioning wire is the one that finally terminates at the passenger fender.
Ed
I am now wondering, what is unique about the engines made after 23 Nov? Is it the wiring, terminations etc. It states engines built before 23 Nov have the problem- not vehicles. The ground straps, wiring etc on the motor must come from the engine vendor already connected- leaving only the vehicle terminations once it is installed.
Where is the difference? Is it the wire type, is it the terminations at the engine, has a bleeding resistor been added to dissipate or bleed off a potential. Clearly bpeeble, I bet you don't have 2" of insulation stipped off of your wire, eh? I still don't think it is the official fix- I believe Chrysler has provided a band-aid
By the way, what is the build date of your truck?
Also, if you're putting the gullwing (or a sealing type hard tonneau) on your Quad - watch out for the lip on the tailgate - might not fit flush w/o some trimming. By the way, make sure you (or they) put (at least) the wrapover part of the tailgate protector on with some proper double sided or foam tape to keep it from moving. We're all getting scratched paint (you can blame henne like I did, he won't mind) - thanks to some Dodge 'service guys' not reading the instructions & trying to save 2 minutes of precious shop time.
catnip2337 - recorded cd's will play if their filetype (format) is compatible with the cd - should be listed in your manual.
covers will wear trough if the wiring looms are
touching them because they are a lighter softer
metal?
Would like to hear,
robert