Just looked at a side view of a Quad and was thinking why are these so popular with guys who don't mention the need to haul kids / dogs (sometimes you'd think dogs would be better - at least dogs act grateful). It must be that the Quad looks like a highly stylized Hummer, that $80,000 Jeep-like macho machine.
i have coem to realize that alot of people dont hear that tick, my wife never heard it, yet we drove many hours together in it, and she never heard it once, while i was chewing my nails, i think some people just cant hear that frequency,
You could be entirely correct. I KNOW my high-frequency hearing is less than normal. It is possible that I simply do not hear the ticking. Perhaps I should ask my wife to 'listen' for any 'ticking' sounds.
Perhaps you could explain it better... did you say it sounds like the snapping of electrical discharge. (sparking sound?) Perhaps an effect caused by the 8 individual ignition coils.
sounds to me like injectors in the dashboard, its real loud and fast over 60mph, turn off everything in the car but the engine hahahaha, and listen, to me, it was so loud i had to crank the stereo up louder to drown it out, my wife said it was an excuse, she said i was trying to drown her out, so much for newlyweds LOL....
Same here. Neither my wife nor a friend could hear it, so reducing it with the temporary groundstrap was satisfaction to me. Only me. I'm sure they thought I was hearing things. But then, it seems that I am the only one in the house that notices that a toilet is running continuously, or someone left the faucet on enough to drip.
I am not sure what noise an injector sounds like, but my initial thoughts were that it sounded like a slight lifter tap. I would also equate it to the chatter of a "reed relay" or comparable tiny relay- not the clunking of a larger relay.
Sorry to hear that you are having to dig your way out of the snow, but do envy your ownership of a 4WD. I love the height of the 4WD and really wanted one- just found it hard to justify in southeastern Missouri.
Could someone please tell me about Dakota 97. I saw one today with 31,000 mi., V8, 5spd, AC, reg. cab. It's very powerful and looks nice too. I am concerned about the 97 models because they are the first ones with all changes from the old Dakota. Anyone has any problems with 97 models? What should I look for in this particular model? BTW, the price is about $10,000. Is this a good buy.
Per your sound advice I took voltage measurements, here are the results. 3-4 mv at the two firewall bolts and the two fender bolts 9 -10 mv at the alternator case, mount bolt and the bolts used to hold down each sparkplug coil assy.
What do you think??
I noticed something odd however- Two of the plug coils have what appear to be capacitors mounted to the bolt. They are connected at one end only through the metal grounding tang.
There is a similar module at the Passenger fender bolt connecting ground to a wire which comes out of the 1 1/4" wiring harnesss by the accumulator. The part number is: 56041396AA 250-0.47 (probably 250 volt .47 microfarad) 2119 (probably julian date and year of mfg)
In this application, the capacitor would be shunting any voltage spike to ground, not DC levels. The 2 units at the plug coils serve little value if connected at only one end. I have never seen a capacitor connected at only one end, even up through lower RF signals. Besides, a .47 microfarad is for a signal well below the RF level.
The two "capacitor like" units at the plug coils differ only in the last 4 digits (1969 vs 2119), which is why I suspect it to be date of mfg)
Are you willing to check yours? If so, they are located on each side of the engine- 2nd plug back. Specifically they are the #3 (drivers side) and #4 (passenger side) plugs
I have a 4.7 and if you look inside the filler cap after 800 miles, the oil & water (condensation?) is 1/8 to 1/4 inch thick. The dealer agrees it is excessive but his mechanics say it's normal for the engine. I've had the truck for 2600 miles and two oil changes, one by me & one by the dealer. Dealer says it doesn't happen with other engines. Who knows what the effect is after 200,000 miles but Chrysler won't even give a response in writing. They told me to sue them, then they would give me a written response. Any one else look in their filler cap & get worried?
(myersed)As always, your documentation is impeccable. All of your voltage measurements appear well within acceptable levels. (Remember, a LOWER reading means a better connection)
I was going to ask you about the injector capacitors next but you beat me to the discussion.
The schematic wiring diagrams clearly show that each bank of injectors has a capacitor on the +12V side of the circuit. As you allude to, these are known as decoupling capacitors. (Decoupling is their function, not the type of capacitor...If anyone has further questions about this please read a good book on electronics design)
I noted that the ones on MY Dakota are likewise NOT CONNECTED INTO THE CIRCUIT. I suspect that the engine comes from the MACK build plant with them installed but the wiring harness (which comes from another plant?) has the connectors missing for some reason.
What is the purpose of the capacitors? Well... the function of the caps are to "store" energy and release it as needed. ...."lot of technical stuff missing here" This would help the injectors open faster when the computer sends the signal to open. One could think of this as making the injectors more 'responsive' or 'snappy' when they open.
What happens when the caps are not in the ckt? Decoupling caps can usually be removed from any ckt with no apparent operational differences. HOWEVER... it must be considered that the designers SPECIFIED that the caps should be there.
I have a 2" suspension lift and a 2" body lift for a newer stlye 2WD Dakota. I need to sell them asap. My truck is a lease and I need to turn it back in. The body will fit on a 4 wheel drive reg. cab also. The suspension lift is by fabtech. email me at matthew.goss@gm.com with any questions. My asking price is $100.00 for the body lift (complete) and $175.00 for the suspension (with shocks)
This has been mentioned numerous times. I live in GA, had a yellow slime, rather than buildup. Switched to Synthetic at 2,200 miles and have had no trace of yellow stuff since. If you live where it's colder, you'll get condensation built up. Something about it not breathing like other engines; I'm not a chemist, but I can believe that part. I've got to look into the synthetic oil brands. I was chastised a bit on here for using Mobil 1. Used the darn stuff for 15 years or so and nothings ever blown up! Synthetic is superior stuff for many reason, any one with a good reason to switch, please let me know. I have no Mobil or Exxon stock! Good luck out there.
The age old synthetic vs. non-synthetic argument is likely to go on for years. As far as I'm concerned synthetic is the way to go. Few would argue that it is a better oil, the only question being whether it is significantly better than non-synthetic over its lifetime. Synthetic will definitely let you stretch the change intervals if you want, but many argue that if you use regular change periods it doesn't matter.
I guess the argument is do you buy Yugo or recognised make if you are only keeping the car for a few hundred miles - Yugo is probably good enough and cheap - others are better. As far as I am concerned to each his own. My personal choice would be to always use synthetic, in my case Mobil 1. Having said that, I am in the process of buying a car that I will put sufficient miles on to change the oil every 8-10 weeks. As it has a capacity of 11 quarts of oil that natural stuff is starting to look VERY attractive.
Dittos on the Mobil 1 (or better --pure base-- synthetics like Redline, etc.). One little point to ponder: you CAN buy Mobil 1 in bulk containers. Saves lots of $$$. Call a local oil jobber & ask. I found it when I was the Site Mgr. for Exxon here in Midland & was doing an inspection of a Mobil field office - wayyyy prior to the merger (really a takeover of Mobil by Exxon). They had the stuff laying around all over the place - so I asked where I could buy it. I get mine from a local jobber for less than 1/2 the shelf price of single quarts. However, most of the local auto parts guys are selling the Mobil 1 filters for $1.99 (reg. $10) when you buy a discounted 6 pack of Mobil 1 - so I've been doing that lately. I change mine at 3k intervals due to the dusty environment here.
After reading everything on this baord for the past 6 months, I have finally pulled the trigger! I ordered a Dakota Quad, SLT, with SLT plus decor package, 25G quick order package, trailer package, traqiler tow package, HD service, Security alarm, anit-spin, sliding rear window, 3.92 axle, fog lights, 5 speed 4.7L V8, amfm cd cassette stereo, and the audio controls on steering wheel!!! YEEHAH. I got it coming in Forest Green Pearl. YYAAAAAHHHHOOOO!!!!!!!! I paid 24,900 including everyhting except taxes. Worked on 4 dealers for 2 months. I am so fraking happy. I can't wait to dump my 93 Pathfinder. Thanks to all you guys for asking the questions i wanted to and answering them like i wanted. There are no dumb questions here! Party on Dakota dudes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
It's time for me to take a trip to the dealer and just have a quick look at a latter date vehicle. As you have noticed, the caps are easy to see, unless it's snowing really bad, eh?
You did say that the print had the cap connected to the 12 volt bus of the injector bank at each side. Is that same 12 volt bus also sourcing power to the high voltage coils, or are the B+ primary side of the coils being fed from another circuit altogether? (I wish I had my manual now!!!!)
With the capacitor tied between B+ and ground, I assume that the switching occurs on the negative side of the injector coil. Would make sense. I am not very familar with the auto injector circuitry but assume it to be similar to any similar inductive circuit.
As with any inductive load - On turnoff, the coil will act like a small reversed battery and generate a small voltage spike on the line. (with a DC circuit, this is easily observed with a scope) If not properly filtered to ground, close to the source, it could possibly create havoc with other sensitive electronic chips. HOWEVER, most of the time there is probably adequate current draw (load) on the system reducing the reflected load impedance, thus drowning out most of the spike (with or without the cap). Either way, I think we are getting close but I won't feel good till we get to the root cause of the tick.
Are you sure you don't hear the slight tick???? I would feel better if you did! Especially knowing your caps are not hooked up either.
Interesting discussion on synthetic versus natural oil, only now I am more confused than before. Have been using Castrol 10-30 for the last several years and have had great results( 240,000 miles on the Cherokee, 170,000 on the Pathfinder, 2 Nissan pickups with over 125,000. I still own the Cherokee but the others were sold and still running well and using no oil. Because I am a high mileage driver, I never change before 5,000 and usually closer to 7,500. I think Castrol make some blended oils that combine the two. What's the advantage? How would a change to synthetic oil affect the dreaded yellow slime? I am genuinely interested in any comments because I really would like this truck to last at least 200,000 miles. Oh yeah, I started using Castrol because some old sport car and gymkana(sp?) buddies from California swear by the stuff. They have been racing since the days when street machines(porche speedsters,etc) could still run at Laguna Seca. I defered to their superior mechanical knowledge and switched to Castrol. Seems to have worked out.
YES! you are correct. the +12v feed for all 8 injectors and all 8 ignition coils is from one source. A relay within the PDC (Power Distribution Center) known as the ASD (Automatic Shutdown Relay) This relay also supplies power to both the O2 sensor heaters (NON California models)
We have 8 injectors and 8 ignition coils all inducing voltage spikes into this single power supply wire. Having the capacitors missing from this +12v supply circuit will most certainly make this electrically 'noisy'.
As you surmised, the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) [what most people refer to as the engine computer] controls ALL of these things and more by switching ground. (Standard electronic design)
NOTE: Did you know that there is a BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR underneath the battery? This allows the PCM to control the Alternator and calibrate the fuel/spark for specific thermal conditions.... pretty cool design
themacguy: Youmentioned that the synthetics are comatible with regular oil. If I wish to Make the switch to synthetic is there anything special I need to do at my next oil change. Also, if I change my oil filter w/out draing the oil first will I lose alot out the oil filter. I live in the Midwest were it gets pretty cold in the winter and would like to get rid of the yellow slime. Thanks in advance. Scott
I agree that redline is probably the best, but I think that this is probably overkill for most people. I only say that because it isn't that easy to get hold of - if you could walk in to WalMart and pick some up then I would certainly go for it.
I think one factor that is often overlooked is the quality of the oil filter, most people will only change with their oil - the hassle factor if nothing else, and if you are 'pushing' the change intervals with a synthetic then you need to make sure the filter is up to the job.
Interesting to read the macguy's comments on using regular oil in demanding applications. The engine I was referring to earlier on is the late '80s Jaguar V12. This runs at a compression ratio of 11.5:1 (at least it did new), and yet factory still recommends a quality natural oil - Castrol in their case.
Incidentally, I saw a few comments on 10W30 oils, I believe that for most climates / applications Dodge recommends 5W30 for the 4.7.
Well, I just ordered the service manual today. $90 plus shipping. Like you I will get the enjoyment "technical reading" pleasure. They claim the manual should arrive in 7-10 days.
BTW- finally figured where the water droplets were coming from. The AC accumulator!!. Driving home today (temp around 65 degerss) I noticed the AC was on. Huh!!!! I had it in the Floor/vent position (this position has no snowflake). Pulled out the owners manual again and discovered the AC MAY RUN in all non-snowflake positions EXCEPT the VENT only position. I obviously didn't catch it in the book earlier and may have overlooked some conference messages where it was being discussed. Not sure what triggers the AC unit on while in these other positions. Temp??? Wouldn't expect to see a humidity sensor but heck if we have a Battery temp monitor, you never know.
Had condensate all over the place. I think I am going to wrap that unit and the metal portion of the input/output hoses.
Thanks for the info. Very helpful. Now, if I can just work the synthetics into my meager budget. Thanks, again. Oh yeah. I'm becoming obsessed with the truck and available goodies like the rest of you fools. My wife (it was originally going to be a vehicle for her, but she got the last 3 new ones, so what the hell) claims that the Quad is a mid-life crisis kinda thing like sports cars and younger women. I told her that's why I ordered the V-8. Did I mention that it was a Red 4x4 and.....but I go on.
Hope any of my gibberish helps you. On the Redline: you can get it from just about any [non-permissible content removed] bike shop or probably a true speed shop - anywhere that sells Redline Water Wetter. I use that stuff in all my Porsches (noticeably lowers the temp w/o hurting the German alum.), seems the German climate they test their toys in doesn't get W. TX hot. It'll take about a week to get it from (I believe Calif.) though. It'll cost you about $96 + tax for the case (12). And on the filter change - YES - you'll get a half cup or so on you doing just a normal change by hand. But I use a neat trick - ALL OF YOU GUYS MIGHT TRY THIS: I have medium sized hands so I got a pair of the largest sized heavy rubberlike yellow dish gloves I could find. I put them on, then roll them (backwards) inside out so just my fingers are in the gloves. Then I slip the part that normally goes up my arm over the filter so that when I turn the old filter and break the seal, the overflow is caught by the cupped part of the glove, and the filter slides neatly down inside. Make SURE the oil is just warm - NOT hot or you'll burn your fingertips! Cleanup is easy... I also opened my main oil fill cap (the dreaded yellow slime tube) before I changed mine the second time (when I went back to Mobil 1), got a lot less overflow out of the filter. I'm currently tracking down availability of an adapter that lets you 'remote' your filter - also lets you add a SECOND 'INLINE' filter. I use them on my Porsches; they supposedly have one that fits the 4.7. Here's hoping...
for being a little off topic, but I have a question for themacguy on the use of synthetic in older engines. I guess the theory applies equally to trucks.
Anyway, I am currently debating the use of synthetic in a Jaguar V12 engine. These engines don't have the best reputation for keeping oil inside and I am concerned that a switch to synthetic will cause the engine to spring leaks everywhere, for the very reasons that I would use synthetics, better lubrication, smaller molecules blah, blah, blah. This is a particular concern with a high compression engine. What is your view on this?
Well, as I mentioned earlier, I have ordered my truck. Now I want to prepare to personalize it. Does anyone know of a websight that is offering parts for the Quads yet? Or a catalogue? I can't find anything, especially one that shows pictures. I am interested in bedliners, caps & covers, bug deflectors, etc. Thanks for your helps guys. And thanks for the oil discussion. It is very educating.
Thanks to everyone, bought a Line-X bedliner for $300; happy as a lark! Bought an ARE LSII cover for $650 installed, and Bushwaker fairs for $228 installed. All look like I won the "Millionaire" TV show. Plan to switch to K&N air filter at 2000 miles because of dust here. Also, will change to synthetic oil. Pennzoil synthetic is about $3.00 qt. vs about $4.25 for Mobil 1. Anyone know of a problem with the Pennzoil? Have always filled new oil filters with oil before installation because of the dry start-up. Maybe an old wives tale, but it seems reasonable to me. Have no yellow gunk in the filler tube because it is warm here. The owner's manual recommends change to synthetic differential gear oil if you plan to pull a trailer.
4WD SLT Extended Cab (Quad-owner can answer too) 3.55 Rear Axle Tire and Handling Group 5 sp Manual 4.7L V8 Limited Slip Axle (not sure if this makes diff for this question)
I am interested in your opinion on the power (I have test driven the above combo with the 3.92). Can you start off in second gear with the 3.55? Do you feel you have to (the 3.92 has so much torque in 1st that you almost HAVE to start in second)? Can you start pretty quickly off the line? Do you feel it has the "oomph" of a V8 pickup? Also, what kind of gas mileage figures have you been getting? This is the last issue I must resolve before ordering. Towing is no problem since I do not intend on using the whole 6000lb max that is seen with the 3.92. Mainly cruising, commuting and weekend hauling. Thanks for your inputs!
Can a new quad 4X2 be made/built to look like a 4X4? I want the profile of the 4X but prefer the performance of the 4X2. Maybe if I want it to walk like a duck and look like a duck, I should go ahead and by a "real" duck.
Toyota Tacoma builds a "prerunner" that starts at 17.5 for a 4 cylinder and 18.5 for a 6. Extended cab version, no 4-door like the Quad. I'd investigate closely the resale value before making such a purchase, while there is obviously a market, I have a feeling it's in small geographic areas of the continent.
The real duck will quack louder when you go to sell it.
Sam I have had my 2000 Dakota 4x4, 5 speed, 4.7 for abou a month nowc and I feel I can address some of your questions. The 4.7 is a strong engine and I don't think you would be disappointed at all with it. I only have about 1200 miles with mostly city driving and I am getting about 15 mpg but I expect that to improve. I do have the 4 wheel ABS and have gone through several snow stornms and have had it engage; I do feel it is worth the extra money. One thing I believe you should reconsider and that is the in dash CD player. I have been on the RAM list and the Dakota list and I have heard many complaints about the in dash player. In my Ram I ordered the upgraded Infinty Sound system with CD controls as an integral part of the radio and then bought the Mopar 6 disk CD player which is actually an Alpine unit. Not only does this set up sound great but it never skips; I liked it so much that when I traded the Ram in on my new Dakota I talked the dealer intome keep the Cd player. I got the same radio in the Dakota, have installed the player and it performs flawlessly and sounds great.
Does anyone have the 4x4 5spd 4.7 with 3.55 rear end? I too am interested in mileage figures and performance. After agonizing over the 3.55 versus 3.92 question I opted for the 3.55 but still am not sure if I made the right choice. There was not even a 5spd. to test drive let alone compare rear end choices. I eventually opted for the 3.55 based on hopeful gas mileage improvement. I will be towing only occasionally even though I ordered the heavy duty towing package. It is not flat where I live but the towing over the hilly terrain will be minimal. There has been a lot of discussion on this topic in Dakota forums but I don't recall reading any actual data from a user that has that exact configuration. Oh well, its too late to change my mind now. I called DC today and according to the customer service rep my Quad was being built today. :>) My fingers are crossed.
Now that (Hopefully) that round of Synth -vs- Dino oil is over. I REALLY would like to hear from anyone else that had the build-up in the oil-filler that was 'cured' by switching to Synth oil.
Any confirmations about this?
The facts about the Synth oil are well documented.
Better protection (Both cold and hot extremes)
MUCH cleaner engine (No build-up of black scum)
Tendancy to leak out of ANY small orfices. (Can even swell rubber seals on some engines)
etc... etc.
But can synth oil eliminate the emulsion in a DC 4.7L OHV semi-hemi internal combustion engine?
I don't foresee a problem with the change - will talk to my Jag mechanic buddy about this by Fri. - will get back to you... I've heard about people changing to synthetics 'late' in an engine's life and having trouble. I've changed a half dozen high compression Porsches over to Mobil 1 with 100k or 200k on their clocks - no problems as yet. By the way, is it an XJ-SC cab? And if so, do you want to sell it? If not, could I just sit in it a bit, and make some racer-boy / oooh & ahhh sounds? :-O
wilmar1 - Pennzoil synthetic should be fine, I just wouldn't use regular Pennzoil (too slick) w/o a good filter that has 'cold start' valve improvements... I've heard the prefill-the-filters routine for years. Actually preheating the oil with an engine block heater is probably more beneficial, though. If pre- filling the filters gives you peace of mind - knock yourself out. What you really want is an oil that has the 'clingy' or 'filmy' additives that help prevent cold-start metal to metal contact - they leave behind a film for a couple of days before gravity & other factors leave the cylinder & piston walls clean.
The real clue to your question regarding 3.55 versus 3.92 is the fact that you are not towing on a regular basis, or any brute loads. I know people with the 4.7, 5 speed and 3.55 differential(s). They are well satisfied. It will improve mileage somewhat, but there is really no earth shaking difference. With a combination of automatic transmission coupled to constant towing in hilly terrain, the 3.92 would be very well justified, as the transmission would shift constantly. My Club Cab with 5.2, 5 speed and 3.55 ran like a heartbeat. I towed occasionally, and encountered no problems whatever. You will be happy with the choice. Enjoy the truck and more so your life and don't give it a second thought.
I have a '97 V6 slt with 17000 miles. I've only had it for about two months and it pings at low speeds, high speed, warm or cold. I have gone to the dealer 4 times and they say that this is a common problem, and that Chrysler is coming out with a new service bulletin to fix the problem (retard the timing)it should be out next week they said. the technician I deal with recommended using UNOCAL 92 octane only. Does any of you guys have any noises in the right hand side, back, when turning on a drive way (right hand turns only) ??? Any comments would really be appreciated. please post in this forum or e-mail to an310@pacbell.net Other than those two problems I love the truck!! I will keep you guys posted with the pinging.. thank... Ed
Thanks to all for the informative information made available on this forum. I am awaiting delivery of a 2000 CC and am already thinking of installing a bed CAP. I have visited both LEER and ARE's WEB sites where I found valuable info. What other companys make CAP's and which manufacture would you recommend? Thanks in advance once again.
Sorry to get out of the general subject. I am looking for a set of Dakota 15x8 wheels for my '97 Dak. If anybody has a set for sale please repond here or e-mail at an310@pacbell.net thanks...
I saw a brief mention in one of Dak topics about the In-dash CD Player in the 2K Dakota skipping. Is this true? I am referrign to the Inifinity setup (I believe that this is the only way to get an in-dash CD player in the truck). THanks for any info....
Skipping over large bumps or "washboard" is expected but not on normal streets...
It works & makes the yellow crud disappear. Where does it go? Haven't the foggiest idea. I checked mine yesterday and the inside of the cap and tube were just about dry, except for a thin oil film; sounds like the answer to me. You can ask a thousand Q's, all I know is I used Mobil 1 for years and it's marvelous and it makes the crud go away. I bought a GEM flat tonneau. It's metal on both sides, comes off in about 1 minute with a buddie or wife or whomever helping. Put one of those bed extenders on it, don't really know how much it'll get used. I think the Quad 4x4 handles like a dream. I'm moving one of my daughters next Tues with a 12x6 trailer, doesn't weigh much and not expecting any problems. 4.7 sure has the poop to do that ok. Be careful out there; God, I wish I'd made that up originally!
Tinyivan, I can't comment on the 2000, but I'm told the CD/Cassette/Equalizer stereo that comes with the infinity package in the 2000's is the same that came in my 1998 and I have NEVER had it skip. Not once. Even over rough railroad track crossings, etc.
Hello, Does anybody know any details on service bulleting 236597 (re: popping noise heard from rear of cab as the vehicle is turned onto a steep incline)if anybody does I would appreciate the input. thanks... 1174
Although I don't know what your timing is on acquiring the 15x8 wheels, if I had my Quad (on order) I'd be willing to make an offer on all four, including the new tires, plus the spare. I'm getting the Tire / Handling Package for the wheel flares and beefier sway bar but was more interested in a non-flotation wheel and tire set. After checking your profile, I don't think we could be further apart in distance (California & Pennsylvania). Can't imagine that this could be a win-win transaction.
spike50, when do you think you will be getting your Dak. and how much would you want for the set. And as far as the distance how does Jersey sound to you. e-mail me at an310@pacbell.net. thanks
Comments
Cross your eyes and think green / brown.
what do you think?
robert
Perhaps you could explain it better... did you say it sounds like the snapping of electrical discharge. (sparking sound?) Perhaps an effect caused by the 8 individual ignition coils.
good luck,
robert
I am not sure what noise an injector sounds like, but my initial thoughts were that it sounded like a slight lifter tap. I would also equate it to the chatter of a "reed relay" or comparable tiny relay- not the clunking of a larger relay.
Sorry to hear that you are having to dig your way out of the snow, but do envy your ownership of a 4WD. I love the height of the 4WD and really wanted one- just found it hard to justify in southeastern Missouri.
Thanks
LL
3-4 mv at the two firewall bolts and the two fender bolts
9 -10 mv at the alternator case, mount bolt and the bolts used to hold down each sparkplug coil assy.
What do you think??
I noticed something odd however- Two of the plug coils have what appear to be capacitors mounted to the bolt. They are connected at one end only through the metal grounding tang.
There is a similar module at the Passenger fender bolt connecting ground to a wire which comes out of the 1 1/4" wiring harnesss by the accumulator. The part number is:
56041396AA
250-0.47 (probably 250 volt .47 microfarad)
2119 (probably julian date and year of mfg)
In this application, the capacitor would be shunting any voltage spike to ground, not DC levels. The 2 units at the plug coils serve little value if connected at only one end. I have never seen a capacitor connected at only one end, even up through lower RF signals. Besides, a .47 microfarad is for a signal well below the RF level.
The two "capacitor like" units at the plug coils differ only in the last 4 digits (1969 vs 2119), which is why I suspect it to be date of mfg)
Are you willing to check yours? If so, they are located on each side of the engine- 2nd plug back. Specifically they are the #3 (drivers side) and #4 (passenger side) plugs
Ed
Ed
All of your voltage measurements appear well within acceptable levels. (Remember, a LOWER reading means a better connection)
I was going to ask you about the injector capacitors next but you beat me to the discussion.
The schematic wiring diagrams clearly show that each bank of injectors has a capacitor on the +12V side of the circuit. As you allude to, these are known as decoupling capacitors. (Decoupling is their function, not the type of capacitor...If anyone has further questions about this please read a good book on electronics design)
I noted that the ones on MY Dakota are likewise NOT CONNECTED INTO THE CIRCUIT. I suspect that the engine comes from the MACK build plant with them installed but the wiring harness (which comes from another plant?) has the connectors missing for some reason.
What is the purpose of the capacitors? Well... the function of the caps are to "store" energy and release it as needed. ...."lot of technical stuff missing here" This would help the injectors open faster when the computer sends the signal to open. One could think of this as making the injectors more 'responsive' or 'snappy' when they open.
What happens when the caps are not in the ckt? Decoupling caps can usually be removed from any ckt with no apparent operational differences.
HOWEVER... it must be considered that the designers SPECIFIED that the caps should be there.
a newer stlye 2WD Dakota. I need to sell them
asap. My truck is a lease and I need to turn it
back in. The body will fit on a 4 wheel drive reg. cab also. The suspension lift is by fabtech.
email me at matthew.goss@gm.com with any questions. My asking price is $100.00 for the body lift (complete) and $175.00 for the suspension (with shocks)
I live in GA, had a yellow slime, rather than buildup. Switched to Synthetic at 2,200 miles and have had no trace of yellow stuff since.
If you live where it's colder, you'll get condensation built up. Something about it not breathing like other engines; I'm not a chemist, but I can believe that part.
I've got to look into the synthetic oil brands. I was chastised a bit on here for using Mobil 1. Used the darn stuff for 15 years or so and nothings ever blown up! Synthetic is superior stuff for many reason, any one with a good reason to switch, please let me know. I have no Mobil or Exxon stock!
Good luck out there.
I guess the argument is do you buy Yugo or recognised make if you are only keeping the car for a few hundred miles - Yugo is probably good enough and cheap - others are better. As far as I am concerned to each his own. My personal choice would be to always use synthetic, in my case Mobil 1. Having said that, I am in the process of buying a car that I will put sufficient miles on to change the oil every 8-10 weeks. As it has a capacity of 11 quarts of oil that natural stuff is starting to look VERY attractive.
I paid 24,900 including everyhting except taxes. Worked on 4 dealers for 2 months. I am so fraking happy. I can't wait to dump my 93 Pathfinder. Thanks to all you guys for asking the questions i wanted to and answering them like i wanted. There are no dumb questions here! Party on Dakota dudes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
You did say that the print had the cap connected to the 12 volt bus of the injector bank at each side. Is that same 12 volt bus also sourcing power to the high voltage coils, or are the B+ primary side of the coils being fed from another circuit altogether? (I wish I had my manual now!!!!)
With the capacitor tied between B+ and ground, I
assume that the switching occurs on the negative side of the injector coil. Would make sense. I am not very familar with the auto injector circuitry but assume it to be similar to any similar inductive circuit.
As with any inductive load - On turnoff, the coil will act like a small reversed battery and generate a small voltage spike on the line. (with a DC circuit, this is easily observed with a scope) If not properly filtered to ground, close to the source, it could possibly create havoc with other sensitive electronic chips. HOWEVER, most of the time there is probably adequate current draw (load) on the system reducing the reflected load impedance, thus drowning out most of the spike (with or without the cap). Either way, I think we are getting close but I won't feel good till we get to the root cause of the tick.
Are you sure you don't hear the slight tick???? I would feel better if you did! Especially knowing your caps are not hooked up either.
Ed
We have 8 injectors and 8 ignition coils all inducing voltage spikes into this single power supply wire. Having the capacitors missing from this +12v supply circuit will most certainly make this electrically 'noisy'.
As you surmised, the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) [what most people refer to as the engine computer] controls ALL of these things and more by switching ground. (Standard electronic design)
NOTE: Did you know that there is a BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR underneath the battery? This allows the PCM to control the Alternator and calibrate the fuel/spark for specific thermal conditions.... pretty cool design
Thanks in advance.
Scott
I think one factor that is often overlooked is the quality of the oil filter, most people will only change with their oil - the hassle factor if nothing else, and if you are 'pushing' the change intervals with a synthetic then you need to make sure the filter is up to the job.
Interesting to read the macguy's comments on using regular oil in demanding applications. The engine I was referring to earlier on is the late '80s Jaguar V12. This runs at a compression ratio of 11.5:1 (at least it did new), and yet factory still recommends a quality natural oil - Castrol in their case.
Incidentally, I saw a few comments on 10W30 oils, I believe that for most climates / applications Dodge recommends 5W30 for the 4.7.
BTW- finally figured where the water droplets were coming from. The AC accumulator!!. Driving home today (temp around 65 degerss) I noticed the AC was on. Huh!!!! I had it in the Floor/vent position (this position has no snowflake). Pulled out the owners manual again and discovered the AC MAY RUN in all non-snowflake positions EXCEPT the VENT only position. I obviously didn't catch it in the book earlier and may have overlooked some conference messages where it was being discussed. Not sure what triggers the AC unit on while in these other positions. Temp??? Wouldn't expect to see a humidity sensor but heck if we have a Battery temp monitor, you never know.
Had condensate all over the place. I think I am going to wrap that unit and the metal portion of the input/output hoses.
And on the filter change - YES - you'll get a half cup or so on you doing just a normal change by hand. But I use a neat trick - ALL OF YOU GUYS MIGHT TRY THIS: I have medium sized hands so I got a pair of the largest sized heavy rubberlike yellow dish gloves I could find. I put them on, then roll them (backwards) inside out so just my fingers are in the gloves. Then I slip the part that normally goes up my arm over the filter so that when I turn the old filter and break the seal, the overflow is caught by the cupped part of the glove, and the filter slides neatly down inside. Make SURE the oil is just warm - NOT hot or you'll burn your fingertips! Cleanup is easy... I also opened my main oil fill cap (the dreaded yellow slime tube) before I changed mine the second time (when I went back to Mobil 1), got a lot less overflow out of the filter. I'm currently tracking down availability of an adapter that lets you 'remote' your filter - also lets you add a SECOND 'INLINE' filter. I use them on my Porsches; they supposedly have one that fits the 4.7. Here's hoping...
Anyway, I am currently debating the use of synthetic in a Jaguar V12 engine. These engines don't have the best reputation for keeping oil inside and I am concerned that a switch to synthetic will cause the engine to spring leaks everywhere, for the very reasons that I would use synthetics, better lubrication, smaller molecules blah, blah, blah. This is a particular concern with a high compression engine. What is your view on this?
4WD SLT Extended Cab (Quad-owner can answer too)
3.55 Rear Axle
Tire and Handling Group
5 sp Manual
4.7L V8
Limited Slip Axle (not sure if this makes diff for this question)
I am interested in your opinion on the power (I have test driven the above combo with the 3.92). Can you start off in second gear with the 3.55? Do you feel you have to (the 3.92 has so much torque in 1st that you almost HAVE to start in second)? Can you start pretty quickly off the line? Do you feel it has the "oomph" of a V8 pickup? Also, what kind of gas mileage figures have you been getting? This is the last issue I must resolve before ordering. Towing is no problem since I do not intend on using the whole 6000lb max that is seen with the 3.92. Mainly cruising, commuting and weekend hauling. Thanks for your inputs!
I'd investigate closely the resale value before making such a purchase, while there is obviously a market, I have a feeling it's in small geographic areas of the continent.
The real duck will quack louder when you go to sell it.
Ron S.
Any confirmations about this?
The facts about the Synth oil are well documented.
- Better protection (Both cold and hot extremes)
- MUCH cleaner engine (No build-up of black scum)
- Tendancy to leak out of ANY small orfices. (Can even swell rubber seals on some engines)
- etc... etc.
But can synth oil eliminate the emulsion in a DC 4.7L OHV semi-hemi internal combustion engine?wilmar1 - Pennzoil synthetic should be fine, I just wouldn't use regular Pennzoil (too slick) w/o a good filter that has 'cold start' valve improvements... I've heard the prefill-the-filters routine for years. Actually preheating the oil with an engine block heater is probably more beneficial, though. If pre- filling the filters gives you peace of mind - knock yourself out. What you really want is an oil that has the 'clingy' or 'filmy' additives that help prevent cold-start metal to metal contact - they leave behind a film for a couple of days before gravity & other factors leave the cylinder & piston walls clean.
Bookitty
I have gone to the dealer 4 times and they say that this is a common problem, and that Chrysler is coming out with a new service bulletin to fix the problem (retard the timing)it should be out next week they said. the technician I deal with recommended using UNOCAL 92 octane only.
Does any of you guys have any noises in the right hand side, back, when turning on a drive way (right hand turns only) ???
Any comments would really be appreciated.
please post in this forum or e-mail to an310@pacbell.net
Other than those two problems I love the truck!!
I will keep you guys posted with the pinging..
thank... Ed
Ron S.
thanks...
Skipping over large bumps or "washboard" is expected but not on normal streets...
I bought a GEM flat tonneau. It's metal on both sides, comes off in about 1 minute with a buddie or wife or whomever helping. Put one of those bed extenders on it, don't really know how much it'll get used.
I think the Quad 4x4 handles like a dream. I'm moving one of my daughters next Tues with a 12x6 trailer, doesn't weigh much and not expecting any problems. 4.7 sure has the poop to do that ok.
Be careful out there; God, I wish I'd made that up originally!
Hope this helps,
Chad
thanks... 1174
I have had my quad for 1 month and put
1500 hiway miles on it. I have the indash cd player , it does great no skipping!