Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

GMC Yukon and Yukon Denali Problems



  • I have been trying to diagnose an issue I have with my 03 Denali XL. The rear speakers have no sound coming from them. In addition, the rear audio (head phones) do not have any sound coming from them when they are plugged in. I thought that the channel had been blown on my amp and replaced it only to find that was not the issue. I am wondering if it may be the head unit rear channels. The front speakers (door speakers, Tweeters, and Subwoofer) all play fine. The other possibility I have thought about is the rear audio control. It is as if the rear audio controls have been activated and only the rear speakers have been muted. Issue with this theory is the fact that the rear audio controls do not work either. Any idea’s how I can diagnose this issue?
  • i have a 2000 yukon denali. i just bought it 1 month ago. i was on my way to a different town today and on the highway it was having problems when i hit the gas. once the denali reached 55 mph thats when it was having problems. it would chug or act like it was gonna die on me. after getting up to 70 mph and it still happening for the next few miles i just decided to turn around and come home. i had to drive 50 mph all the way home so it wouldnt chug. oh and i just put 50 dollars in gas so i know it not that. any ideas? please help. thanks
  • ive check tran. fluid its fine.if anyone has a solution please inform.the truck goes forward but wont move in anyone if you have similar problem or solutions.thanks
  • I had the same problem on my 2005 yukon denali. It turned out to be the seal between the transmission and transfer case. I didn't notice a leak either but every time I get a oil change I have them top of the fluids.
  • fastdog1fastdog1 Posts: 19
    As far as your mirrors go, they probably disconnected the battery while working on it and you need to go into the driver information center and reselect the mirror tilt-down option.
  • Did you ever figure out what the knocking noise was? Mine does the exact same thing. after about 20-30 minutes of driving it sounds like it is binding up when I turn and loud knocking with a funky grabbing then letting go feeling. HELP. :sick:
  • Hey there, my Denali has started making the same noises you described only after driving awhile (20-30min) did you ever find out what was wrong?

    Thanks! :cry:
  • ma2skma2sk Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Yukon and for a couple of years now there has been a loud popping somewhere in the steering column. It has became louder and worse over the past couple of years. Of course this problem didn't pop up until my warranty expired. I took it to a local mechanic who couldn't figure out what the problem was. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, did they find out what was causing and how to fix it? I sure could use all the help I can get.

    I am also having problems with the air conditioner. For no reason at all it will start blowing hot hot air. It will be working fine one moment and then poof the hot air comes. I live in Texas so we use our air conditioners a lot! :confuse:
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    I think the loud popping sound has to do with the Intermediate Shaft (or I-Shaft), it can be heard as well as felt (if I am not mistaken) in the steering wheel and/or the steering column area. Hope I am still on track to what you have experienced so far. If yes, you may verify and consider the possibility of replacing the Upper I-Shaft Assembly (Bulletin #00-02-35-003M), where I recall quite a few GM vehicles were affected in addition to those I can recall below:
    2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models
    2003-2006 HUMMER H2
    The replacement I-Shaft Part Number is: 19153614

    Make sure that is indeed the problem, and Good Luck!
  • capnjakcapnjak Posts: 1
    Hello all. This is my first post to this site, so hopefully it will be helpful. I own a 2001 yukon xl denali that I bought in feb of 08. Everything worked except a/c. I was told it was too cold to check but it did work. Last week with the warmer weather I tried a/c. Just blows warm air. Checked everything( even all the answers in this site. ) Tried disconnecting battery, all fuses etc. My mechanic checked freon - full. no leaks. He figured it must be compressor. Anyway,long story short, it wasn't the compressor, it was the belt and tensioner. Seams that the tensioner got stuck and wouldn't engage the compressor. My $1400 repair turned into $200. Maybe this isn't your issue, but have a look at the a/c tensioner and belt.
  • kendog2kendog2 Posts: 1
    Yes I have I recently purchased the 2007 yukon denali 6.2liter and the keyless sometimes unlocks the rear doors and most of the time it dont. I cant figure it out. It will always unlock the front two but sometimes not the rear ones. ????? If you do please let me know.
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Checkout Message #499 from "greggboston" in this discussion, if you have not already.. Not sure what is "doc 1861180" though... perhaps take that information to your dealership for help.
  • domsdenalidomsdenali Posts: 1
    Has anyone had this problem with their liftgates. I can lock the doors with the remote or from the inside of the truck but the Lift Gate and the Lift Window will not lock. Can anyone help.
  • harleygharleyg Posts: 2
    Have you found out what your problem is with the popping and knocking on the frontend of the Denali XL? I have an 02 with the same problem, have replaced both cv axles and wheel bearings, all differental fluids transfercase fluids still knocks and pops when turning right or left after 5-10 miles.
  • umomsumoms Posts: 3
    I have a 2003 GMC Yukon Denali with 95k miles and for the past 2-3 years I have had to replace the rear pads and rotors several times, they last 4-5 months each time.... The front ones are fine... I tried several different aftermarket. What could be causing them to go bad so quick all the time?
  • skytop1skytop1 Posts: 106
    Anyone have any good advice for better brake pads for my 2008 Yukon XL Denali?
    Braking can be best described as weak. I will be towing a 3000# boat in about 3 weeks on vacation and I want to upgrade to better pads with better grip so I can stop this sloppy driving SUV before plowing into the car in front of me. Thanks.
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    In that 4-5 months, how many miles have you driven before having to replace the pads and rotors?

    In my opinion there are several possible reasons, assuming in the 4-5 months of time you have only driven a few thousand miles (say ~6K to 7K):
    1. Have been using bargain pads and rotors... ???
    2. Caliper Pins/Slides were not properly (or not at all) lubricated, which caused the pads to stick to the rotors.
    3. Have been using old/rusted brake pad retainers, could potentially cause the pads to stick too...
    4. Bad caliper or caliper piston, does not release/retract properly even when the brake paddle is off.
    5. I assume it not the ABS or the Master Cylinder, as you mentioned the front brakes are just fine...

    Hope you find the real cause of this problem soon.
  • ice100ice100 Posts: 1
    my 2004 yukon denali has a problem with the drivers side heated seat they come on and go off automatically its been to the dealer 3 times and they still cannot fix the problem any suggestions?
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Sorry, I only can speak for the 2007 model, hopefully its similar to your 2004 Yukon. Each heated seat has a Climate Control Seat Module, operates with seat back and seat cushion temperature sensors. In this case from reading your post "...the drivers side heated seat they come on and go off automatically...", I was not sure if the seat gets to heat-up at all, or it just turns itself off immediately after you turned it on?

    If it turns off immediately after you turned it on, then there may be an over load to the Heated Seat Element, perhaps an electrical short of some kind...? Once in a long long while, it could be related to a faulty Heated Seat Switch... If the seat does get to heat up, but only stayed on for a short time, then there may be an issue with the temperature sensor, or may be the Climate Control Seat Module itself is faulty... A lot of guesses here, I hope your dealer knows better to check all these components at the least. Best Wish!
  • kdemellokdemello Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Denali and it has started making a terrible ticking noise. When I start the rig it is much louder and more intense but then it seems to settle down and find a steady grove of ticking. Does anyone know what this could be caused by and how much its going to cost me to fix it? Is this a common problem with Denali's?
  • This just started happening on my 2003 today. Any ideas what the issue is?
  • My 2003 has a ticking sound like that of a clock pendulum that recently started as well. I have been searching high and low to find its origin. I know it sounds like it's in the dash somewhere but am having a very hard time finding it. HELP please.
  • I found that the issue of whistling came from the hands free phone/onstar mic above head. On mine, there was a ground loop that was found ultimately to be caused by a poorly grounded negative battery cable(to the engine) and loose/stripped negative battery pole bolts.
  • donahuesdonahues Posts: 36
    I have a 02 Denali. The only problem I have had in my 93xxx miles is that the seat heaters no longer work (any of them).
  • jdunkasjdunkas Posts: 1
    Hi! Love my truck but just ran into a problem today. I have electric running boards. I left the lights on this afternoon and drained the battery. When I got things going again, the running boards do not operate. (In fact the the passenger side runnig board is stuck in the extended position and the driver's side running board is in the retracted position). The fuse is okay yet the button on the center consloe doesn't do anything. Any ideas??
  • jallardjallard Posts: 2
    Have a new 2008 Denali w/the 20 inch wheels. As soon I got on the highway noticed a vibration in the steering wheel starting at 55 and getting worse as speed increased. Especially annoying after 65mph. Steering wheel shakes and passengers can feel it. Had 2 front wheels balanced but did not fix the issue. Then had all 4 tires balanced an again did not fix the issue. Now have 2000 miles and am ready to take to dealer but am not looking forward to it. Any idea what may be causing this? Bad rotors, bad shocks, suspension, etc. Is it a known problem that others are having? Any info would help me so when I do take it to dealer I can speak intelligently!
  • jallardjallard Posts: 2
    Have a new 2008 Denali with 20 inch rims. On the door jam, it says to inflate tires to 32 psi for this size. On tires it says 40psi. Which is correct. I was told 40 psi so the tires wouldn't cup. Am confused. Wondering if over inflating by 8 psi per tire can cause tire vibration.
  • ahightowerahightower TXPosts: 539
    40 is probably the maximum psi for the tire. That doesn't mean you should set it to 40, it just means that's the most it could handle. I typically go with the door jamb recommendation, plus 2-3 psi for slightly better mpg (lower rolling resistance at higher psi). It results in a slightly firmer ride, but still very acceptable. Perhaps slight cupping will result, but I haven't had any problems with that in any of my last four vehicles. I have 17"s, so you'll want to experiment for yourself with your 20"s. Set it to 32, and track your mileage for a month or so. Then go up to say 35 and see if you notice any deterioration in ride quality or significant increase in fuel economy.
  • rshtrsht Posts: 277
    Does the sticker on the door jam references the 32 psi with the 20" tire size? If it does, then the 32 psi is the minimum cold tire pressure you want to set at. I agree with ahightower to set the pressure a couple of psi higher than what's suggested on the sticker to gain a little on the mpg. Ultimately, you'll have to find your comfort zone by observing and adjusting the tire pressure you desire between 32 to less than 40 psi.
  • aramcoaramco Posts: 3
    Please forgive me if this was too obvious a reply but it took a while, at least for me to learn this: for assuring that the rear doors unlock the keyless button is pressed twice. One press opens the driver's door. The second consecutive press on the button opens the remaining doors..... ....
Sign In or Register to comment.