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Comments
J
Got 2.9 in December 2002 on a Acura TLS- rates are creeping up again.
Thanks
Check with DCH Montclair Acura.
See post #159 for the dealer name. These guys are great. I am driving quite a distance to get my car from them but it seems to be worth it based on my phone conversations with thesales manager, finance manager, and salesman. Please email direct if you want my salesmans name.
sr_shah,
Thanks for the heads up.
J
Can you please tell me what you paid for the the accessories you listed in your recent post?
Thanks,
J
Here's the deal I negotiated at Bridgewater Acura in New Jersey http://www.bridgewateracura.com:
42 month lease
15K per year
$453 per month
$550 bank fee
$157 document fees
$129 motor vehicle fee
First month fee paid up front
They gave me an extra master key, splash guards installed and a trunk tray.
It was a very pleasant experience. A friend bought an '03 TL-S from same dealership recently and had the same professional transaction that I did with a different salesman. We used different people because I made initial contact with these folks months ago.
More from me in "acura v. G-35" and "Acura TL"
I spoke to 3 other Acura dealerships and received lease rates that were higher than my inital quote from Bridgewater Acura.
jaydoll: I have bought a different brand car from a DCH dealership (they're nationwide) and was very pleased. I have 3 friends who have bought from Montclair Acura and have been very happy. The dealership I bought my car from is very close to my home.
How much of a discount would you have to get from MSRP for the deal to work out to below $500 per month with those terms?
backcourt: .15 per mile. BMW/Lexis is .20 and Mercedes is .25 in New Jersey. Not sure if this is nationwide. When you "buy" the miles up front they are .10 per mile with my Acura dealer.
Is that a 48 month lease with only 10K miles per year allowed and $5K to drive off?
I often see cheap payments advertised, but the fineprint shows high up front costs, terms as long a 60 months on a lease and severe mileage restrictions. BMW and Mercedes do this alot with their lease ads.
Thanks for the recommendation. They do seem stand-up compared to other dealers I have talked to. Baring any suprises on Thursday when I pick my TL (trade not what they quoted me, etc) I think I will be happy to recommend them to other prespective buyers. Please tell me what goodies they included with your lease.
Capitalized Cost: $ 40000 42500 MSRP minus discount
Lease Price: $ 40000 minus $ 0 down payment
Residual Value: $ 26000 after 36 months
Depreciation Fee: $ 388.89 part of lease payment
Lease Fee: $ 123.75 part of lease payment
Monthly Payment: $ 512.64 without tax
Usage Tax: $ 0 0 % of 14000
Total Monthly Payment: $ 512.64 What you pay
1. Minimal up front costs. bank fee, docs, mv and first month up front should be the only things paid unless your State has other mandatory fees.
2. Realistic annual mileage usage. A couple of people made the point that the "get you into the showroom ads" are misleading. You need to read the fine print; i.e. 10k miles a year? That's 192 miles per week or 27 miles per day. Are you a little old lady that drives the car to church on Sundays. Almost everyone here sounds like they enjoy the driving experience.
3. Is gap coverage included- Honda/Acura has this
4. What's the maximun amount of damage allowed at lease end- Honda/Acura have $1500. If you buy a Porsche you pay for every scratch.
5. What's the per mile charge on the "over" on the lease. It's .15 with Honda/Acura. Lexus and BMW is .20 and I believe MB is .25!
6. Is there a despositon fee? Honda/Acura none. BMW/MB is $300-$500
7. My wife may drive my car a bit if I start putting too many miles on the TL. 10000 miles over on the lease is an extra $1500 which I've decided I may end up paying if I don't buy the car at the end.
8. On a 42 month lease you may want to get an extended warranty. If one puts exactly 15k per year on the car you'll go 2500 miles over the 50k warranty period. If one goes over by 7500 miles one should consider getting a 60k extended warranty. At my dealer the cost now- I didn't purchase it- is about $1000. If I purchse it at 49k it may be as around $1500- they can't give you an exact figure. I have troubles with the car I'll buy the extended warranty at 49k.
I'm sure I forgot some other points; help me out people.
Cost: MSRP $35195
No downpymnt
No Cap reduction fee
MF = .0023
48 months
Residual = 49%
12,000 miles
TTL included (6.25% here in Texas)
$580 per month
After discovering this board tonight, my thoughts are that what I'm being quoted is high. But I plugged these figures into LeaseWizard and came up with the same thing as what I've been quoted. Any advice is appreciated.
Thanks!
Can you lease through Honda Financial? They may give you a better rate; that's who I used. Additonally, your leasing company may charge you hiddens fees. See my "Leasing" message #183
Another thing I'm kicking around is potentially buying vs leasing. I've never owned an Acura but given their track record for reliability, it might be worth just buying it instead of leasing it. Any long time owners have any comments on Acura maintenance costs 6/7 years down the road?
Thanks again!
If the car was unreliable during the factory warranty period, wouldn't it make more sense to dump the car at 49K miles and apply that $1500 towards early-termination fees instead? Either that or take the risk that any repairs needed between the end of the 50K mile factory warranty and the end of the lease would total less than the cost of the $1500 extended warranty.
I wouldn't have leased past the factory warranty. I would hate to pay for an extended warranty or out of pocket repairs on a car I don't even own.
I don't see what the fascination is with 48 month and 60 month leases. If you need a lease that long to afford the payments, you should be looking at less expensive vehicles.
Maybe I could afford the payments on a 2004 LS430 if I put a lot of money down and got a 60 month lease, but I won't do it because that is a stupid way to spend money.
It may add more than just a few dollars to the monthly payment, but I wanted a good idea of how much.
Looking for a Silver with Quartz.
2) On cars with 50K mile warrantys, 39mo/15K leases make a lot of sense, if the residual is only 2% less than 36mo/15K.. You stay in warranty the whole time.
3) Being out of warranty for only 2500 miles isn't the problem.. Chances of something happening within that time are slim. The problem is with them finding a problem after you turn the car in.. If its still under warranty, the warranty pays for it. If not, you will be charged. (regardless of what the pre-turn in inspection found)
4) Cars with Nav.. definitely have lower residuals... On the typical lease, you might be paying for 38-40% of the car.. But you will be paying about 60-65% of the extra for the navigation system. Navigation typically adds $35-$40 per month to a lease.
regards,
kyfdx
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Note on the spoiler and splashguards: my dealer called to say that they had a Silver TL (2nd color choice) for me and wanted to deal, but when I got there the silver was gone and they had the Anthracite w/spoiler (humm, funny how that happened). I wanted really wanted the Anthracite (1st color choice) but not the spoiler w/the $900+ price tag. I was ready to walk a third time because of the mix up and they made me a deal on the spoiler & pro pack.
I'd rather not say what dealer made me the offer, but I live in SF and commute to Sili Valley - it is one of them in between there...
BTW - the car is fabulous! Very solid, great finishes and fun to drive.
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cgi?file=/c/a/2003/11/06/MNG2M2- RGRM1.DTL
I think you are a good negotiator. Congratulations on your efforts.
To make an apples to apples comparison however, the following needs to be done:
$32,650 is the MSRP. You paid $31,900 and $285 for the protection package. Your cost is now $32,185.
Folks are getting the protection package gratis and other options gratis; i.e. all-weather floor mats, extra keys ($80 each), body- side molding, free oil changes, etc.
Just receiving a gratis protection package and all-weather mats gets one's true cost to $32,235, As you can see the true price you paid isn't that far off from most people.
You definitely have the best deal I've seen so far though.
Were there any other hidden charges? Anti-theft window etching charge, extra MV fees, or a delivery fee?
You should tell your CA brethren which dealer you used. They can use your experience as leverage. Or do you have a friend there and that's why you got the good deal? If you've bought from them before or were there on a referral that helps with bargaining power.
Congrats again on your deal, just don't let your arm get too sore patting yourself on the back.
;-)
What I've seen is that dealers in CA are holding pricing very tight hoping people's emotions will make them give in. Dealers in CA have seen sales drop 23 percent in the first three weeks of October, compared with the same period in September according to the SF Chronicle They need the business and now might be the right time to make a deal - even if the registration is high.
As far as the dealer goes, it really doesn't matter who sold me the car. I have no vested interest in the dealer and don't know anyone who works there. This was a business deal and I hold no allegiance to them - not to mention I've had better shopping experiences with other dealers (note my earlier comments about the car "mix-up").
Good luck car shoppers!!! Hope you get a GREAT deal!!
do you guys think it is possible?
At 36 months, the 3rd year if registration fees will be due and you will only get 3 months use before you turn the vehicle and and buy or lease another vehicle and have to pay a new registration fee again on the next vehicle.
The few dollars per month saved by stretching the payments out an extra 3 months over a standard 36 month lease would be eaten up buy paying for and then throwing away 9 months of registration costs.
I went to 3 dealers, first one didn't have the color my wife liked (someting like Anthracite, or similar, with ebony interior), at the second dealer I talked with the manager and he told me he would reduce only $500. I told him at the first dealer they were reducing the price in $700(not true, just a small lie), so I would buy the car only if I get a $1000 discount from MSRP. They said NO. So I politely said goodbye. Then I went to the third dealer in a small town 50 minutes away. I came with the same lie. That I was getting $700 discount from the previous dealer, and that they had the color that I liked. They offered me $850 reduction. I said for $150 less I wouldn't buy 50 minutes away from home. Then when I was leaving the manager came, he asked me again if in the other dealer they had the color I liked(they asked 3 times this same question). I said yes, then he gave me the $1000 I asked. My learning experience from all this is: "If you are ready to buy and close the deal right away, and you have a reasonable offer to show the mnager, and the dealer is located in a "low profile" town (slow sales), you have a good chance to win. Good luck with your purchase!
"Low profile" towns that have less expensive real estate that their dealership sits on helps too.