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Honda S2000



  • Hi everyone , I am sadly selling my S2K.... 05' silverstone metallic with red/black leather interior. Clean title. Clean car. It has 24,500 miles on it. Warranty is good until 36,000 miles. I got a new job so I require a bigger car. I am located in Glendale, CA.

    I am posting the selling price at $25,000 obo.

    If interested please respond to my e-mail at

  • njexpressnjexpress Posts: 170
    Insideline had an article a few days ago on the introduction of a "Club Racer" version in the NY auto show. I will post my findings a couple weeks from now, if I see one at the show.
  • I went to trade in my 2006 S2000 for the 2007 model, they told me that 2006 was the last year for the S2000, I instead bought a 2007 Accord (which I am still kicking myself in the butt for). The next day I went online and saw the 2007 S2000.
    I tried to undo my trade only one day later but the San Antonio Honda Dealorship wouldn't let me.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    I wish you the best of luck in selling your S2000. However, just to let you down easy, you should be aware that one can buy a brand new one for around $30,000. As good as the resale on S2000's is, I would expect the best you could do for a 2 year old one with 24k miles is in the $22,500 range (trade in value is $20.5k +/-). And that assumes its in good to outstanding condition (meaning new tires in the last 2,000 miles). After all, you have used up 2/3 of the warranty and inhaled all that new car smell out of it. ;)

    But at least it still cost you a fraction of what a loaded Z4 or Boxster would have.

    Good luck.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    The 2002 S2000 not only had the glass window improvement, but a redesigned and strengthened transmission (previous models had 1-2 gear grinding problems) and several cosmetic upgrades (dash, center console, rear taillights, etc.). It also had a moderately more powerful stereo head unit that enabled the installation of rear speakers (did that through a kit).

    I had a 2002 S2000 that I traded in the summer of 2004. According to the Acura dealer I traded it to, the purchaser has run it up to 55,000 miles with 0 problems.

    It is possible to purchase a new S2000 for $30,000, so price a used one accordingly. For example, I would NOT consider a 1 year old one with 10k miles for $25k+, simply because proper break in is absolutely critical with this car and you'll be spending close to $1,000 for new tires at 15k +/-. At that price, I'd just buy new. If you can get a 3-4+ year old one appropriately discounted, that might make more sense. Just make sure you have the service records and don't buy a car from a boy racer. :surprise:
  • 06s2k06s2k Posts: 1
    I bought a 06 s2000 in August. In Houston. It has the same dash issues you describe. It has not gotten any worse. I have not gone to the dealer about it. I would be interested to hear if anyone has been able to get this problem fixed.
  • ga_kingga_king Posts: 4
    Just my opinion, but it seems to me that Honda is now trying to make the S2K something it wasn't intended to be (a lux roadster). I have driven the 2000 and 2004 models and the '00 was much more spirited and fun to drive. If your intended driving is weekend only, i have a difficult time rationalizing $35k for 2 days a week when you can get a used '01/'02 for about $16K. Again, Just my opinion.
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    There is a BIG difference between a 2001 and 2002 model. There were the glass (vs. plastic) rear window, more powerful stereo and other aesthetic upgrades introduced in the 2002 model. More importantly, however, the 2002 had a revised/strengthened transmission that eliminated the "grinding" that had been a problem in many '00 and '01 models.

    I would NOT recommend a 2000/2001 S2000. The 2002/2003 have the 2.0 liter, 9,000 rpm engine. The 2004+ have the 2.2 liter 8,000 rpm engine. Personally, I like the 9,000 rpm engine, but either one is a fun car to drive.

    And even a brand new 2007 isn't a bad deal - just heard of someone buying one for $29,000 even, thanks to the $2,000 dealer cash incentive. That's $3,000 less than the $32k I paid for a 2002 in November 2001 - and I got a very good deal at the time. Many were still selling for $2,000-$4,000 over sticker ($36,000+).
  • bagoobagoo Posts: 2
    I own a 2000 S2K and have put over 128K miles on it and I put a workout on the V-Tech daily. It hasn’t given me a bit of trouble and is still running strong (and I don’t baby it). I do have the plastic window and envy the people with nice clear glass. I also have the occasional scratch between first and second gear but it is only on occasion and not the norm. To date I’ve replaced tires, brakes, clutch and wheel bearings (one started to make a little noise) but haven’t needed any “repairs”. I’m sure it won’t be long before I start replacing this and that because of age but it is a sound car. I’ve never driven the 03-04 models but do know the 2k model runs extremely fast and I love the 9k redline. I would say it still pulls as hard today as it did the day I bought it.

    Keep in mind a used car is used but from my experience the S2K keeps with the Honda reputation of long lasting and reliable.
    Good luck
  • oldbeeoldbee Posts: 2
    Really dont need a car, and could use one for weekends or a bit otherwise - say 4 to 6 thousand miles a year. There is a X5 that has done 120,000 miles on the highway and I know to be kept reasonably fine (mostly highway driving, regularly maintained and by BMW only, non-smoker, parked indoor, etc).
    Any ideas about the engine life, or other things I should be careful about?
    Is reliability an issue after these many miles?
    Thoughts from the guys who hold onto their cars for a LONG time!?!?
  • acceleratoraccelerator Posts: 136
    You'd probably get more of a valid response if you posted this in a BMW forum. :)

    Do you just need transportation or do you need a BMW? Just b/c you may not drive much, you still have oil to change, insurance, etc and SUV's are more expensive to operate, IMO.
  • hectors2khectors2k Posts: 1
    i was trying to red line my car but as soon as i hit seven thousand it just started bogging, i tried it again but it did the same thing, it wouldn't let me go to 9 thousand and then i notices a check engine light came up. why is this?
  • acceleratoraccelerator Posts: 136
    In no particular order:

    1) Engine wasn't warmed up enough (3 bars at least) - built-in limiter will cut the gas until the engine is warm enough.
    2) Bad Gas?
    3) Clogged fuel filter/Fuel pump?
    4) Did you put in 93 octane?
    5) Low fuel?

    Why are you purposely trying to redline it? :confuse:
  • anythngbutgmanythngbutgm Posts: 4,277
    Bumping Redline is the core of the fun with the S2000... Trust me it can handle it, it was built to.

    #1 could be the case if the bogging happened at a lower rev. That built-in limiter you mentioned happens at a lower point on the rev-band, I think somewhere around 3 grand. At 7,000, he is already in VTEC...

    If the CEL light came on, O2 sensor issue would be my guess. Keep us posted.
  • acceleratoraccelerator Posts: 136
    Your S is male? Mine is all female! ;)

    Oh, I know the VTEC-ing is fun, just thought you might be doing it for a reason other than fun. :shades:

    In my Baja, if I hit red-line, the fuel would shut off so violently that I'd just about hit my steering wheel with my face... ok, maybe not that extreme but sure felt like it. :)
  • anythngbutgmanythngbutgm Posts: 4,277
    Nah, mine's a "She" as well. :D

    Baja, huh? Cool, I have a Subaru for a DD as well. Haven't gone to redline with that yet, although the boxer engine seems willing to. I'm just trying to keep the gas mileage up. ;)
  • njexpressnjexpress Posts: 170
    Just wanted to post my experiences on "Dent Removal with Dry Ice". Some good samaritan had opened a door on my S2K's passenger side door that left a deepish dent a few months ago. Being a detail Nazi high on Zaino's results, this annoyed me to no end until I decided to try out the dry ice technique.
    I initially heated the surface of the dent with a hair dryer for about a minute and applied dry ice over it for a minute.
    I kept repeating this at least seven times and I am not even ready to imagine if it did anything to the dent.
    Is this because dry ice does not do the trick or Is the gauge of the sheet metal too thick? I honestly can't say. I decided it is not even worth a try on my M Class considering the sheet metal can only be just as thick if not thicker.
    I was initially upset but, all it took me for another spin on a twisty road and my smile returned - Heck! Dent on door panel or not - An S2K is still what it is!!
    My take on this thing:
    Do not bother applying dry ice if there is a dent on your S2K door - Just shop around for a body shop or a PDR location.
  • acceleratoraccelerator Posts: 136
    Sorry to hear about the door dent. I've heard about the dry ice technique but luckily haven't had a need to attempt it (knock on wood). From what I've heard though, dry ice will only work on bubble style dents, not dents with creases. Was your a crease or a bubble type of dent?
  • habitat1habitat1 Posts: 4,282
    This does sound like a "myth" promoted, perhaps, by makers of dry ice? I'm not sure what principals of physics suggest that simply heating and cooling the deformed metal would cause a dent to spring back into a pre-dent shape. It would seem to me that if it held the dented shape after the ding, the metal has stabilized in that position.

    But, in any event, you should be able to find a paintless dent removal service that will restore your S2000 to original condition.
  • njexpressnjexpress Posts: 170
    Thanks for the response. It was not even on the crease. In fact, it was an inch above the crease line. Members in S2KI have reported sucess but, Just my luck! I had to park this one time, next to cars - Normally, I park a mile away from the rest of the cars but just the day before, I had a shopping cart right next to my car in an otherwise deserted area of the lot - It looked like I was being sent a message, almost :( . So, I just decided to park closer to other cars...
    Anyways, the one PDR technician within a 50 mile radius is only available 7 Am thru 10 AM, Monday thru Friday and I would already be at work at that time - Guess I have to take time off to do that - The more I think about it, it only makes me madder that people have no consideration for other's prized posessions - Oh Well - Nobody can be flawless, I guess... Not even my S2000....
  • s2k_07s2k_07 Posts: 6

    I just bought my 2007 s2k about two and a half weeks ago, and it's my very first sports car. Since it's my very first, I'm interest in maintaining it properly, so it's good to know that the maintenance factors are low except for the replacement tires.

    You've recommended replacing it with OEM or better. Since I'm truly new at this, would you mind explaining what "OEM" means?


  • s2k_07s2k_07 Posts: 6

    I'm from the Silicon Valley Bay Area in California, and I just bought my 2007 s2k about two and a half weeks ago. I absolutely love the way it feels when I drive it, as many of you had also mentioned through this forum. Asides from the financial factor, this was also the determining factor for me.

    It's my very first sports car so I'm absolutely new at this. I would like to get some advice in regards to its proper maintenance and where to bring it for services and repairs. Does anyone have any recommendations and advices as to where I should be bringing my car in when that time comes, dealerships versus independent shops, etc.? What are some of your experiences?

    Asides from the cost differences, I've heard that dealerships costs more, I'm interested in knowing which repair shops are good. Does anyone know of or can recommend a good one in the Silicon Valley area?


  • acceleratoraccelerator Posts: 136
    First let me say, "Welcome" and you have chosen wisely. :) What color did you get?

    You will not believe how little maintenance there is to this car. There is an S2K guru at my local Honda shop and for our part of the country, oil change isn't recommended until around 7500 miles. At that point, I'll probably switch to Syntehtic but I haven't done any research on that yet so don't hold me to it.

    To answer your other question, OEM simply means "Original Equipment Manufacturer" and pertains to anything that came on the car from the manufacturer. The part does not have to be Honda branded (such as the tires for example). If you replace your tires with Bridgestone Potenza 05s, then that would be replacing tires with OEM tires. If you went with another brand or style, then that would be considered NON-OEM tires. Hope that helps.

    If you don't get any responses here for Silicon Valley dealerships, you can interview your local dealers. You can also check online for car forums for your area. There is a forum devoted to the S2K ( My local chapter is very active and I'm sure with your climate, your chapter would also be active.

    Welcome to the club!
  • estrekaestreka Posts: 28
    Firstly, congrats! You're gonna love your S2K more and more each day. I bought mine 3 years ago and I love it even more than I did the day I bought it.

    I see you're wondering about problem areas. I have been a member of for many many years and I feel I'm got a good grasp on the car. I should preempt my advice with a disclaimer, my S is supercharged, so I need higher performance parts than you might need. Also, problems I have may not apply to you.

    Obviously, the biggest expense is going to be tires. Right now, I've got Falken Ziex 512 tires. They are fantastic and I highly recommend them. The treadwear rating is high and the grip is phenomenal. I used to have serious fishtail issues until I got these tires. Also, the longevity is very good. Another good set of tires are those Fuzions. They're super cheap and they last a long time. Grip isn't the best, but they're more than adequate for spirited driving.

    Next problem you might have is your clutch. I use an ACT Stage 3. The stock clutch is adequate, but when your warranty runs out, I recommend an ACT Stage 1 or 2.

    Finally, there's the rear end. The pumpkin (rear diff) has been known to break. Usually, it only applies to high end applications, but nonetheless it's good to be aware of it.

    If you ever have questions or want to know about any strange noises, just let me know! I've been working on my car for years and can [hopefully] provide useful guidance.
  • toydrivertoydriver Posts: 227
    I notice occasional "low whine" from rear end. This seems to be more common in colder weather, when car isn't warmed up and when going down hill, or coasting to a stop. More noticeable with top up ( as are most noises in the S ).
    Mine is a '01 S2K with 33K miles. Bought used in '04 with 20K miles at that time. Had all routine maintenance documented. I don't drive it that aggressively. It gets driven above 6K rpm for short bursts twice per week, but only when engine has warmed up. From the appearance of the car when I bought it, I believe the prior owner used it only as a summer car and didn't race it or abuse it. It has not had the rear differential fluid changed.

    Is this a "normal" noise? When would you change the diff. fluid, or is it necessary to do this if I drive it as indicated ?
  • estrekaestreka Posts: 28
    Diff fluids are scheduled for 90K miles. If you aren't hard on your car, I'm sure you wouldn't need to replace it any earlier.

    Has the noise only occurred recently? Is it matter of you noticing it now? There should indeed be a small mechanical spinning sound coming from the rear. It would sound like a low whine. Try this, coast down a hill with the clutch engaged in gear (ie, the engine slows you down) and then try it without a gear selected. If there's a difference, you're probably hearing your clutch.
    Clutches can be finiky with various weather. I see you're from MN, so you do indeed have cold winters. If it turns out to be the clutch, exercise it a few times before you drive on it.
    To be quite honest, I drive my truck in winter (Montana gets well below 0 in winter). The S block is made of aluminum and could suffer substantial problems.

    Let me know if any of this helps!
  • toydrivertoydriver Posts: 227
    Thanks for replying. The noise occurs with clutch engaged when slowing down or going down hill; but more noticeable when first driving without warming up the drive train. No noise when clutch not engaged (coasting). It is also more noticeable when ambient temps below 50deg. I don't notice it now that it's summer. Re: the clutch, I've never felt it slip and I don't "ride" the clutch or pop it, so I don't think it should have excessive wear.
    Also, I did look up the rec. service on They rec. rear diff. fluid change at 30K on the S2K, even for normal driving conditions. I have heard other people echo what you said about not needing to replace the fluid under "normal" driving conditions. Some have suggested that replacing the fluid can be "tricky" if done by an inexperienced technician, and could lead to more problems if not done right. Not many S2Ks up here in MN, so I don't know how many rear diffs. are seen by the usual Honda technician.
  • estrekaestreka Posts: 28
    The "trickiness" they're talking about is the fluid itself. There have been many instances of technicians using just any diff fluid. The S needs Mobil 1 75W90 synthetic gear oil or Honda's equivalent (about a qt), otherwise it'll burn up. Make sure they use the right stuff! I recommend buying it yourself and taking it to a shop (you save money anyway because they always charge extra to use their stuff). I see they do have it listed every 30K now. I don't really see why you need to change it that often. The fluid isn't cycling, it's just stationary, but ok.
    Ok, I just perused s2ki and found some owners calling for it as often as annually (I don't recommend that). I also found a link here on how to change it out. It's got some useful info too.

    As far as clutch v. rear diff, it is possible that it still might be the pumpkin. There are some parts in there that only operate when driven. The general rule of thumb is you're probably ok unless you smell something. Your clutch will give you many months of notice before it burns out completely. The rear diff, well, that's never happened to me (I did snap an axle in half though *grin*). Rear diffs typically break down after a series of hard acceleration (ie, racing every red light).
    With such low mileage, I would have to say your low whine is normal. If it gets worse, I might consider having a tech ride along with you (they love rides, it gets them out of the garage, and thus, work). I'd have a bottle of fluid handy, though.
  • toydrivertoydriver Posts: 227
    Thanks again. Very useful info. :)
  • s2k_07s2k_07 Posts: 6
    Thank you very much for your warm welcome and informations. I truly appreciate it!

    I got a black on black, realizing that I would have to keep it cleaned and waxed enough to use it like a mirror. But what to do, I love that look. Kind of felt like Batman in his bat mobile except a little more stylish, (nothing wrong with Batman or his bat mobile, I love them!), but instead of chasing villains, I'm avoiding them, i.e. where I go, where I park, etc.

    I test drove a very bright yellow one and I have to admit that it does make me feel like I'm sending a signal of "get out of my way or you'll eat my dust..." kind of feeling but I can't see myself looking at it every single day for who knows how long I'm going to have this car. Hopefully years.

    It's also good to know about the oil change schedule. What brand of oil do you use? And I understand that tire threads doesn't always wear down evenly but about how thin should it be before I absolutely have to change them? I've heard testing it with the depth of a penny?

    Thanks again for your help and informations.

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