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Can you discribe the year and model and if it was an extended cab (two piece) drive line you replaced? Can you tell me where you purcahsed the driveline and how much it cost you?
Thx,
pchalker@cableaz.com
Thanx
whity
know how many links or what the spacing is between the timing mark at the
number 2 position and the timing spot on the crankshaft.
The repair manual on one page says 44 pins, but on the next page it gives the correct procedure but doesnt't really say what the distance is.
Thank,
Frank
After driving the truck for 30K miles, the transmission developed a slight noise, and I took it in for service at Gwinnett Place Nissan. They told me that the transmission had chewed itself up, and needed to be completely replaced. I took a deep breath, and told them to replace everything, new transmission, clutch, and related parts. It cost me approximately $3000.
I drove the truck for another 40K miles. The transmission developed a similar slight noice. On April 4th, 2005 I again took it to Gwinnett Place Nissan. Same story, except this time I told them "I don't buy it. I just had your place of business replace the entire transmission lock stock and barrel for a cost of $3000 a mere 40K miles ago. I've been a good customer of this dealership, and purchase 6 vehicles from this lot alone, and always driven Nissans my whole life".
The mechanic assured me not to worry, and said he "didn't yet know what was wrong with it" [!] He told me that he would take the transmission apart for me and discover for me what had gone wrong, and that if I decided not to get it fixed, he would not even charge me. (I had signed an agreement to pay $86 in investigative work which I do not mind paying.)
I called in every few days, and was told they were "waiting for parts". After 14 days of this, my wife, very upset called them and was told a vastly different story. They told her that they had never told me that they were "waiting for parts" and that they had done a lot of actual work on the truck to try and fix the transmission. They also claim that I verbally agreed to a $2200 work order with the mechanic. (As I mentioned, I had only agreed to $86, up until I was to be told what was wrong with it.)
My wife called me and related all this, and then I called the service advisor. I told him listen, we are working under an $86 agreement at this point, I want that CLEAR." He disputed me and said I had agreed to pay $2200 with the mechanic. I disputed this and told him what the mechanic actually had said. He said that he would have to ask his service advisor what to do, and that he would tell the mechanic to give me a call.
After waiting 20 hours I called my lawyer, and we drew up a demand letter for the return of my truck. This was mailed to Gwinnett Place Nissan on April 29th. Today is May 9th, and they have not even responded to the demand letter. They still have my truck, and have had it since April 4th. 1 month, 5 days. (That's $50 of liability insurance alone, wasted.)
I've had to actually buy another car to drive.
My advice to you all is to steer well clear of Nissan.
In my talks with various people about the real mechanical issue and what seems to be happening it is this: It appears that Nissan has developed a rear seal on their manual transmission that is designed to fail at about 50,000-70,000 miles (or less in city type driving). The failure is such that the fluid leaks out only while the vehicle is in motion, and leaves no sign that it is leaking under the vehicle while parked. Since it blows back, there is no visible sign on the transmission housing, which usually appears reasonably clean, dry, or dusty. By the time the least little symptom appears, the transmission has completely failed. There is no easy way to check the fluid level in the manual transmissions, no dip stick, etc. From the point the rear seal just begins to fail, until irreprable transmission failure is a fairly short mileage, maybe about 2-3K. You won't have a chance.
Good luck.
good luck R.S
sorry too hear that ,nissan has been good2 me in NJ,blew the trans and they replaced it for free had the warnty,but i lifted it and they said they would fix It and then they said it would be ok with no fight at all,it had a nice 4In lift on it ,I HAD A93 sev6,4WD,Auto it was the best truck i ever bought.i put 260.hundred + on it ,but little things were making me spend money.so i bought chevy what a mistake peace of S#@$# 2001chevy4wd,4l. american can't make trucks sorry too say,if they did i would by another.Ishould of bought an another one nissan.But you should of bought new ,i never buy used its just bad luck i feel, seen to many of my friend have trouble.
goodluck i say!!
Badness,NJ East coast.
I noticed your message and unfortunately I am having the same problem.
I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier and we just replaced intank fuel pump Saturday. Truck started up and ran like a charm. However last night after placing about 100 miles on it, passing a semi truck on the freeway my truck just died. Was able to manuever to the side of road and the truck will not turn. Have power but will not start crank over. Have taken truck to Nissan dealership and place on the "problem" monitor and they cannot find anything wrong with it.
Did you ever get any resolution on your problem? Any feedback that you can share would be greatly appreciated. I have had this truck for 3 1/2 years and this is my first problem and man what a problem!
I thank you in advance for your feedback.
Cherie
I've been having problems starting my '92 P/U. I'll push the clutch in to engage the starter relay and it won't kick over. I thought it was the clutch button switch, but my friend said every time I turn the key, one of my relays under the hood clicked. He hit it a couple times with a wrench and the truck started. I was gonna buy a new starter, but I guess I'll try replacing the relay first.
Not sure if this helps. Good luck.
a hold of the code listing to see which sensor needs replacing and how difficult is
it to replace one of these sensors? Thanks for any help.
have broken 2wd with about 80,000 on it the 4wd with 62000 miles, you can't convince me this isn't a defect in the unit. I see some others have had simular troubles.
I'm going to see if Nissan will offer any assistance with this on my 4wd XE Model.
If not I will buy a Toy or Dodge next Truck which won't be real long before I shop.
GIT'R DONE!
Here are the Upgrades so far on my Truk:
1) Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
2) Flowmaster Mufler
3) Rancho RS5605 Shocks
overall this is a great everyday truck
espeacially when u dust the local Honda racers
so far so good...
Perhaps you too should find some wiring schematics for your truck.
Mine is a "1986-1/2" (whatever that means), Longbed, Hardbody z24 2.4L, 4-cyl. It has a narrow indented line along side, from front to back, at the height of the gas tank lid. Also across tailgate. Another indent is along the bottom, between front and rear wheel-wells.
There are very slight, broad "fenders" in body. Hood slopes down in front, and has 3 holes in the front. Front grill is black, not a lot of chrome.
I've seen another 86 without the upper long "indent" line along body. Its hood did not waterfall in the front (no room for holes). The "fendering" in its body were narrow little lips.
Are these the two body styles?
Which is which?
Second, there is a grating noise coming from the tranny (I suspect) when I am stopped at a light and the clutch pedal is slightly supressed (not even half way). A friend of mine mentioned that it may be the throwout bearing. Does anyone have any thoughts? If it is this throwout bearing, can this be replaced easily?
Lastly, to those that doubt, I have owned two Nissan products and have never had any significant problems - and I beat the hell out of them (country roads and what not). My next purchase will hopefully be a new diesel pickup, which I believe you can get shipped in through Canada.
Thanks,
Also I am wanting to upgrade from 14" wheels to 16". The reason for this is to reduce the RPM's. Is changing the tire size the best way to do this?
I decided to test it by pulling one plug wire off at a time to see which cylinder was missing. I tried the first, it ran even worse. But when I pulled the second wire off, it ran the same. So I figured it was logical to conclude that my second cylinder isn't goin, although it is getting a spark. My friend's dad also agreed that it was second cylinder so I changed that spark plug....but it still runs the same.
I've had a couple of different ideas from friends. One suggested that I may have blown a hole in a piston. My other mechanically inclined friend doesn't see how that could have happened. He thinks it could be that the second fuel injector has gone out, and the other friend also said that's a possibility. I'm just trying to figure out what all it could possibly be. I plan to have my personal mechanic look at when I have a day off of work. But if anyone has read my posts before, they know that I just like to know what to expect. So any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!