Nissan Pickup Owners Hangout

woodshop28 · April 2005

I am no scientist, so perhaps I am wrong, but I think metal expands when it is heated. Therefore, maybe the connection hypothesis is incorrect. If you are right about metal expanding when cooled, it could be a connection issue that is worse when the vehicle is in the cold.

sw723 · April 2005

Does anyone know the weight of a 1987 Nissan 4x4 transmission? I am shipping one in and I need to tell the weight. The shipper has no scales

dutch724 · April 2005

I have a 5 speed 1990 Nissan pickup and it has 204,000 miles on and the only things I have had to replace was a water pump, U-joints, and valve cover gasket. It is by far GREAT quality. I change the oil and give tune ups when needed. The 89' 4x4 Nissan pick up I had before this one had 475,000 miles on it before the tranny gave out and I sold it. As far as I know it is still running. I stand behind Nissan......Toyotas are just over priced!

dutch724 · April 2005

Pull the gauges out and mess with the plug behind them. sometimes mine got really dusty or shook loose. clean the connections really well then plug them back together and see if they work before you put back in and screw it up.

pchalker · April 2005

Dutch724,
Can you discribe the year and model and if it was an extended cab (two piece) drive line you replaced? Can you tell me where you purcahsed the driveline and how much it cost you?

Thx,
pchalker@cableaz.com

mrathbone · April 2005

I need a sending unit for a 1993 Nissan 2WD, Standard Cab, 2.4L, the fuel tank and sending unit are next to impossible to find for those trucks, the way I can find a sending unit is from the dealership, I was extremely fortunate to find a fuel today from a local scrap yard, I'm just wondering a sending unit from other model years with the same engine and model would work also?
Thanx

seawiz79 · April 2005

Does anyone know if Nissan is going to offer the bed that is in the king cab model on crew cab models? I know Toyota does this, will nissan follow?

whity · April 2005

if the belts are in good condition you don't need to change them... here the trick that works all the time! get some dot 3... and drop it on the belt when the engine is running. if the fan is making it impossible then shut the enging off and do it but you will probably need to do it a couple times to get the job done... no more squeeling!! i found out the trick 20,000 miles ago... not a squeel sense!
whity

redfern27 · April 2005

I have an '85 4x4 Nissan Hardbody that has developed a glitch somewhere in the electrical path to the starter. I recently replaced the starter and just had my battery checked to make sure it is OK. When I turn the key to start my truck, I can hear one of the relays clicking under the hood. I have even gone so far as to pull apart my steering wheel column to make sure the problem was not my ignition switch. Does anyone know if the problem lies in my starter relay? Is this a common problem? I understand that there are two relays involved in starting my truck, a main relay switch and the specific starter relay. I can only hear one relay that clicks, but I'm not sure if that is the bad one or if both should be clicking when I turn the key. Any help would be greatly appreciated. :confuse:

motormannfrank · April 2005

motormannfrank · April 2005

I have a 1986 nissan pickup, 720. I am replacing the timing chain and need to
know how many links or what the spacing is between the timing mark at the
number 2 position and the timing spot on the crankshaft.

The repair manual on one page says 44 pins, but on the next page it gives the correct procedure but doesnt't really say what the distance is.

Thank,
Frank

ronstevens · May 2005

I purchased a pre-owned 1995 Nissan Pickup in Dec 1995 with 29,000 miles from Gwinnett Place Nissan for $10K. Up to the time of the current issue I had always driven Nissan's my whole life, and have had a generally satisfactory experience. No longer!

After driving the truck for 30K miles, the transmission developed a slight noise, and I took it in for service at Gwinnett Place Nissan. They told me that the transmission had chewed itself up, and needed to be completely replaced. I took a deep breath, and told them to replace everything, new transmission, clutch, and related parts. It cost me approximately $3000.

I drove the truck for another 40K miles. The transmission developed a similar slight noice. On April 4th, 2005 I again took it to Gwinnett Place Nissan. Same story, except this time I told them "I don't buy it. I just had your place of business replace the entire transmission lock stock and barrel for a cost of $3000 a mere 40K miles ago. I've been a good customer of this dealership, and purchase 6 vehicles from this lot alone, and always driven Nissans my whole life".

The mechanic assured me not to worry, and said he "didn't yet know what was wrong with it" [!] He told me that he would take the transmission apart for me and discover for me what had gone wrong, and that if I decided not to get it fixed, he would not even charge me. (I had signed an agreement to pay $86 in investigative work which I do not mind paying.)

I called in every few days, and was told they were "waiting for parts". After 14 days of this, my wife, very upset called them and was told a vastly different story. They told her that they had never told me that they were "waiting for parts" and that they had done a lot of actual work on the truck to try and fix the transmission. They also claim that I verbally agreed to a $2200 work order with the mechanic. (As I mentioned, I had only agreed to $86, up until I was to be told what was wrong with it.)

My wife called me and related all this, and then I called the service advisor. I told him listen, we are working under an $86 agreement at this point, I want that CLEAR." He disputed me and said I had agreed to pay $2200 with the mechanic. I disputed this and told him what the mechanic actually had said. He said that he would have to ask his service advisor what to do, and that he would tell the mechanic to give me a call.

After waiting 20 hours I called my lawyer, and we drew up a demand letter for the return of my truck. This was mailed to Gwinnett Place Nissan on April 29th. Today is May 9th, and they have not even responded to the demand letter. They still have my truck, and have had it since April 4th. 1 month, 5 days. (That's $50 of liability insurance alone, wasted.)

I've had to actually buy another car to drive.

My advice to you all is to steer well clear of Nissan.

In my talks with various people about the real mechanical issue and what seems to be happening it is this: It appears that Nissan has developed a rear seal on their manual transmission that is designed to fail at about 50,000-70,000 miles (or less in city type driving). The failure is such that the fluid leaks out only while the vehicle is in motion, and leaves no sign that it is leaking under the vehicle while parked. Since it blows back, there is no visible sign on the transmission housing, which usually appears reasonably clean, dry, or dusty. By the time the least little symptom appears, the transmission has completely failed. There is no easy way to check the fluid level in the manual transmissions, no dip stick, etc. From the point the rear seal just begins to fail, until irreprable transmission failure is a fairly short mileage, maybe about 2-3K. You won't have a chance.

Good luck.

miller_lite · May 2005

About that brake light and ABS light problem, I had the same exact problem with my 93 Pickup SE... I also didnt know what it could have been... I decided to check the brake fluid, and that was very low. I added DOT 3 brake fluid, and both of the lights went off after about 30 seconds. My brakes worked fine before i added the fluid, and work better now.

badness · May 2005

hey keep us posted what happens.
good luck R.S

sorry too hear that ,nissan has been good2 me in NJ,blew the trans and they replaced it for free had the warnty,but i lifted it and they said they would fix It and then they said it would be ok with no fight at all,it had a nice 4In lift on it ,I HAD A93 sev6,4WD,Auto it was the best truck i ever bought.i put 260.hundred + on it ,but little things were making me spend money.so i bought chevy what a mistake peace of S#@$# 2001chevy4wd,4l. american can't make trucks sorry too say,if they did i would by another.Ishould of bought an another one nissan.But you should of bought new ,i never buy used its just bad luck i feel, seen to many of my friend have trouble.
goodluck i say!!

Badness,NJ East coast.

widdowmaker · May 2005

i have a 1993 nissan se 4 cyl 5 speed. what is the towing capacity. i am buying two jet skis. trailer and ski weight is right at 2000 lbs. will my truck deal with this? ive owned it for 12 years. 111,000 miles on it. to date i have put three sets of tires, brake pads on front twice, one starter, three batteries, all new belts once, plugs cap, and wires once, and i just replaced the clutch.

cherie2 · May 2005

Hi,

I noticed your message and unfortunately I am having the same problem.

I have a 2000 Nissan Frontier and we just replaced intank fuel pump Saturday. Truck started up and ran like a charm. However last night after placing about 100 miles on it, passing a semi truck on the freeway my truck just died. Was able to manuever to the side of road and the truck will not turn. Have power but will not start crank over. Have taken truck to Nissan dealership and place on the "problem" monitor and they cannot find anything wrong with it.

Did you ever get any resolution on your problem? Any feedback that you can share would be greatly appreciated. I have had this truck for 3 1/2 years and this is my first problem and man what a problem!

I thank you in advance for your feedback.

Cherie

dagrules · May 2005

:sick: Hav a 91 King Cab - 4 cylinder; 115 K mileage with two recent problems I am trying to diagnose - something is draining the battery, but when I get it going; all indicators ( speedometer, lights etc ) don't work until I have driven it a few K - then all seems good - as well noticed a definite " chug " ( lack of fuel ) when I drove over 50 K - am not looking to put a lot of money in to this as am looking for a new vehicle. Other than that; this truck has been great

sassy2 · May 2005

help- need information on how to get the water pump off, wrecked front end and will need to replace several parts, fan,radiator, water pump etc..... however, having difficulty getting water pump off, any ideas guys and gals

slippedwrench · May 2005

Could you describe in greater detail the exact symptom you are having, is the truck not starting?

slippedwrench · May 2005

what engine do u have??

kwindsor · June 2005

Can some one help me with this. I have a 95 Nissan Pickup XE 4Cylinder 5 speed. Not thinking i hooked a scanner up to the fuse box to the A/C Side of the fuse panel. The Scanner grounded it self out one day and know my a/c is not working. I replaced the fuse, and the push button switch on the a/c unit. also change the underhood A/C Relay. I was told that there are to other relays under the dash. One is a low a/c relay and the other is a Medium A/C relay. Does anyone know where these are located at under the dash. The unit has no power running to it. The funny thing is the Radio is ran off the same fuse and it still works. I need help i have a newborn son that rides with me and we are getting ready for are summer season. Thanks Kirk

pakalolo · June 2005

Not sure if this is the same problem:

I've been having problems starting my '92 P/U. I'll push the clutch in to engage the starter relay and it won't kick over. I thought it was the clutch button switch, but my friend said every time I turn the key, one of my relays under the hood clicked. He hit it a couple times with a wrench and the truck started. I was gonna buy a new starter, but I guess I'll try replacing the relay first.

Not sure if this helps. Good luck.

cooldog66 · June 2005

Do you remember which relay it was? There are a couple down there. Thanks.

therock0603 · June 2005

So Thursday night it was running just fine...not a single problem. Then I parked at Gamestop where I work and rode around with my friend for a couple hours, and when I went back it wouldn't start. The starter is going strong so that ruled out the battery and starter. It was getting fire because we checked all the plugs....the sparks were pretty small so we replaced them but that didn't fix the problem. We also replaced the fuel filter and that didn't fix it. Now the thing is, when my friend was working on it, he disconnected the fuel line from the fuel pressure regulator and it started right up twice without a problem. When he reconnected the line, it started again but it sounded a little weak. I drove it home and now it won't start again. I tried disconnecting the fuel line from the regulator like we did at Gamestop, but that won't work now. I don't know too much about all the technical stuff, but here's what I'm thinking.......it's getting fire so that can't be the problem. It's getting fuel because when we turned the truck on fuel flowed out of the line. It can't be a timing problem, because if that was the case it wouldn't have started or ran at all. And I don't think it could be the fuel injectors because if that were the case it should have been running rough once we got it started, and it didn't. So.....I'm thinking it's something to do with the fuel pressure, especially since it started right up when we disconnected the line from the pressure regulator. But there's a number of things that contribute to pressure....fuel filter (not the problem), fuel pump, fuel regulator (which rarely go bad), and fuel injectors. So anybody here with quite a bit of experience have a clue what it would likely be and what do you think it would cost to have these problems fixed? I'm having AAA tow it to a shop tomorrow (not a dealership), and I'm gonna get it fixed. But I just really would like to understand it more and know what to expect.

ba57 · June 2005

First time poster. I have a 2002 Nissan Frontier. The check engine light has come on. I know this means an emission control sensor is probably bad. How can I get
a hold of the code listing to see which sensor needs replacing and how difficult is
it to replace one of these sensors? Thanks for any help.

cforrest · June 2005

Does any one know of power upgrades for an 87 Diesel?

pakalolo · June 2005

If you open the hood there are 2 relays next to each other on the left firewall (blue tops). It's the one closest to the windshield.

therock0603 · June 2005

To follow-up my last message, I had my truck fixed at a nearby shop. The problem had something to do with the wires going into the main relay being corroded so that the fuel injectors weren't getting any power. The part they used on my truck is no longer available through Nissan, but thankfully they had the part I needed on a junk car in the back so they could replace it at low cost. Apparently, as the owner said, it was caused or at least strongly linked to the fact that I had the power for my amp hooked on the battery post with a couple of other cables. He said he's seen a lot of problems like that so he mounted a new post on top of my battery to attach those cables to. And now, the thought just occurred to me...what do I do when I get a new battery.......I guess I can just take that post off the current battery and mount it on the new one if possible.

critter1 · June 2005

Have own 2-- 94 nissans XE models one was 2 WD other 4wd both speedodometers
have broken 2wd with about 80,000 on it the 4wd with 62000 miles, you can't convince me this isn't a defect in the unit. I see some others have had simular troubles.
I'm going to see if Nissan will offer any assistance with this on my 4wd XE Model.
If not I will buy a Toy or Dodge next Truck which won't be real long before I shop.

GIT'R DONE!

killswitch · June 2005

i've had my truck for 3 year already. Never really had any problems with my truck, except for one thing its a rattle that comes from my engine (2.4L) I can always hear it when the RPMs go higher than 3500. i dont know what it is or when its coming from. i can also feel a little bit of drag. like as if my truck was being held back. tune up has already been done. but drag is still there. if anyone has any of these problems or how to fix them plz let me know. thx.

Here are the Upgrades so far on my Truk:
1) Exedy Stage 1 Clutch
2) Flowmaster Mufler
3) Rancho RS5605 Shocks

overall this is a great everyday truck
espeacially when u dust the local Honda racers
so far so good...

steveakus · June 2005

The Nissan Frontier is notorius for the sending unit going bad, nissan will warranty this part but also inspect the plug that mates to the sending unit and make sure it is getting full contact using a lot of di-electric grease usually solves this problem after the new sending unit is intact.

chriswz · June 2005

I would like to know if anyone else is experiencing a problem I've encountered with my truck. When my truck engine is cold is cranks over and starts as it should. But if I've been driving for an extended period of time or if I've made several short trips and the engine is good and hot, it won't start. The engine will only turn over and couple of times then stop. It appears that the battery is dead or close to it under these conditions. Once the truck has cooled down for awhile it then cranks over and starts. I've checked the charging system and it's putting out 14.4 volts and I just replaced the battery.

beaumh · June 2005

I have a 1987 Nisan Pickup and had the same exact problem. Me and my dad did everything that you've said and more. We eventually found some wiring schematics at a local car repair shop. By using a circuit tester we pinpointed the fault in our fuel flow was the clutch relay which had been "frozen". Dad hooked some aligator clips to some of the pins of the relay and then connected it to the battery where he proceded to tap it on the terminal. It "unfroze" and we put it back in. Truck started right up.

Perhaps you too should find some wiring schematics for your truck.

beaumh · June 2005

that message was for dougrod

mike80 · June 2005

i have a 1993 nissan standard cab pickup. I have already replaced the tranny once. (which i think it was just a linkage problem) now it wouldnt shift out of first for a couple of days then now it will but it is revving really high. i dont know if it is the fluid. electrical. or the vacuum modulator or anything else.please help.

pierianeft · June 2005

What is the difference between the 720 and the D21? My mechanic says it is body style, but how do i know *which* one i have? Are both hardbodies, and could either be short or long bed?

Mine is a "1986-1/2" (whatever that means), Longbed, Hardbody z24 2.4L, 4-cyl. It has a narrow indented line along side, from front to back, at the height of the gas tank lid. Also across tailgate. Another indent is along the bottom, between front and rear wheel-wells.

There are very slight, broad "fenders" in body. Hood slopes down in front, and has 3 holes in the front. Front grill is black, not a lot of chrome.

I've seen another 86 without the upper long "indent" line along body. Its hood did not waterfall in the front (no room for holes). The "fendering" in its body were narrow little lips.

Are these the two body styles?

Which is which?

oregonian · June 2005

First, I am well aware of the timing belt issue regarding the 105k mark - albeit I learned this recently. I have 129k on my engine now and have not changed the belt yet. I reckon I should do this soon. I don't feel confident enough to do it myself. Can anyone tell me what this might cost at a dealer or otherwise?

Second, there is a grating noise coming from the tranny (I suspect) when I am stopped at a light and the clutch pedal is slightly supressed (not even half way). A friend of mine mentioned that it may be the throwout bearing. Does anyone have any thoughts? If it is this throwout bearing, can this be replaced easily?

Lastly, to those that doubt, I have owned two Nissan products and have never had any significant problems - and I beat the hell out of them (country roads and what not). My next purchase will hopefully be a new diesel pickup, which I believe you can get shipped in through Canada.

Thanks,

caitie · June 2005

yes yes I am a girl and I have never been here before so I do not have a clue how to post a question. Sorry...I have some elderly friends who took their pickup to emissions and the people there told them that a part needed to be replaced. However they didnt tell them what it was called just showed them where it was. It is against the firewall on a 87 Nissan pu. I am assuming it has something to do with the emissions. Can anyone help me???

4thnissan · June 2005

Hi folks, I recently purchased a 95 SE-V6 4X4 KC Auto tran with all available options from Nissan, from a co-worker. No heavy 4x4'ing done... really and it shows. The truck is just beautiful. 3 months ago, I had the timing beIt/tensioner/water pump/drive belts/all radiator hoses and radiator replaced. It now has 112k miles and runs great. However, from a stop or very slow speeds, I hear a squeaking noise when accelerating.... and goes away when truck gets up to 20 or so. Seems like it is coming from the back of the cab. What is that? It's driving me crazy! And it also has the exhaust manifold leak.. That also drives me nuts! I kind of wish I didn't buy the thing...

whizman · June 2005

Any help would greatly be appreciated, I have a 97 nissan pickup and all is well except that my horn does not work, the cruise control is out and the airbag does not inflate, I first thought there was no power getting to the steereing wheel but everything else works, wipers lights etc please let me know of anything this might be, I have checked all fuses and relays and all is ok thanks

oregonian · July 2005

If you don't me asking, what did you pay to have the timing belt done?

rob126 · July 2005

I want to off load my standard transmission and replace it with an auto. My truck has done 107,000 miles. Any comments on this?

Also I am wanting to upgrade from 14" wheels to 16". The reason for this is to reduce the RPM's. Is changing the tire size the best way to do this?

nevri · July 2005

I have exactly the same problem: a rattling noise at about 3500 rpm but it goes away after 3700 rpm or so. I would like you to try this and let me know:try getting your engine to rev at 3500 rpm, then higher still either while parked or while cruising at 5th gear : any difference? Get a long screw driver , hold the sharp end and hit the handle against the exhaust heat sheilds from the manifold down to the cat converter.Anything sounds familiar?

mike80 · July 2005

i have a 1993 nissan standard cab pickup. I have already replaced the tranny once. (which i think it was just a linkage problem) now it wont shift out of first until the rpms reach about 4000.It is revving really high. i dont know if it is the fluid. electrical. or the vacuum modulator or anything else.please help thr peoblem seems to have fixed itself for a whileafter i serviced the tranny. then came back a week later. i think it might have to do with the overdrive. but after checking some fuses and jiggling wires it is working again. please help!

knis · July 2005

I have a 97 nissan pickup XE 2WD with about 87k miles on it. It recently has had a problem after heating up. After it reaches operating temprature and then goes back down into an idle the engine won't accerlerate above 750 rpm. I ran a scanner on it and got a coolant circut malfunction code. I checked the sensor and it was fine and then ran a test on it. The computer's reading of coolant temp. is jumping from about 400 degrees to -40 degrees. After unpluging the sensor the engine would accerlerate, but ran rich. Any ideas on what might be causing the circut to jump around like that?

1990_nismo · July 2005

If you check under the dash in the fuse box you will find a fuse labeled ign (Ignition) nothing will work in your dash if that fuse is blown.

95xe · July 2005

I have a 95 xe 4x4 2.4 l with 120k miles. I just replaced the starter because It was not starting immediately when the key was turned although it did always start eventually after a couple of tries. I thought the starter had a dead spot. I was told to also replace the inhibitor relay and the starter relay under the hood near the fender ont the left side. I cannot find either of these relays. There are several relays visible under the hood (A/C, clutch, EFI, horn, etc) but neither of the two that I am looking for. Can anybody help me find these two relays?

therock0603 · July 2005

So...I posted a while back about a wiring problem that was keeping my fuel injectors from pulsing...I had that fixed of course. But now I'm having another problem. About a week ago when I was driving with a friend, he asked me to floor it because he had never felt it before (my engine is a little built, bored out, bigger pistons etc). Well I did, but when I got to second gear the engine started missing. Since I had changed my spark plugs only about a month before (when I was originally having problems with it) I figured maybe I had fried one or more wires since they were a little over 30,000 miles old. I changed those out, along with the coil wire, but it still ran the same

I decided to test it by pulling one plug wire off at a time to see which cylinder was missing. I tried the first, it ran even worse. But when I pulled the second wire off, it ran the same. So I figured it was logical to conclude that my second cylinder isn't goin, although it is getting a spark. My friend's dad also agreed that it was second cylinder so I changed that spark plug....but it still runs the same.

I've had a couple of different ideas from friends. One suggested that I may have blown a hole in a piston. My other mechanically inclined friend doesn't see how that could have happened. He thinks it could be that the second fuel injector has gone out, and the other friend also said that's a possibility. I'm just trying to figure out what all it could possibly be. I plan to have my personal mechanic look at when I have a day off of work. But if anyone has read my posts before, they know that I just like to know what to expect. So any input would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance!

nissan3 · July 2005

The 720 has 4 rectangle headlights,the D21 is the next generation from the 720 and is called the Hardbody and it came out as a 86 1/2 year model.

nissan3 · July 2005

The starter/inhibitor relay is a double blue relay,it looks like 2 relays moulded together.There mounted to the inside of the fender,if you don't see it then look in the relay box to see if theres a inhibitor relay in there.I think manual trans is the only ones to have the double blue relay.And the autos have the inhibitor in the relay box in the engine compartment.

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