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my geo still needs help, 'cause dealer cannot fix it!
seems like, or i'm sure in the morning cyl 1 and 4 don't fire?
how can that be i have only one coil pack, so than one coil pack should fire all 4 cyl, right?
replaced the distributor , no help.
my next guess is a bit expensive , the ICM or some call it Ignition control module!
But why in the world the car runs perfect when warm????
BTW replaced also fuel pump and temp sensor.
Also , the fuel pump does not come on after you turn key to "ignition" but runs when you turn key to start.
Oh, i forgot when it's cold, i mean about 65-70 F.
am i on the right track with the ICM or is it even the ECU what causes the trouble?
No codes to be found on a diagnose check
any help would be greatly apreciated...
thx ahead
I couldn't start my car(95 Ford Probe GT) sometimes. the battery and alternator are good. But after several days, I can start it again and it is good for several days. Then the old problem emerges again...
My mechanic couldn't find what's going on. He just changed distributor and alternator for me. But the problem remains.
Could you give me some advice on this?
Thank you so much!
best,
zhipeng
Mike GRCV
I *thought* that I had replaced it, but there are TWO clutch switches on my Civic and the Honda dealer sold me the one that triggers as soon as you push the clutch to disengage the cruise control so it doesn't wind your engine off the frame.
The clutch safety switch is buried way up under the dash so since I was tired of messing with it I just cut the wires and twisted them together. I always push the clutch in anyway before starting so instead of going to the significant trouble of replacing that switch I jumpered it closed.
I still have absolutely no idea where this mystery starter cut-out relay is. I looked all under the dash today, pulled down the fusebox as far as it would go. There is nothing up there that resembles that relay, except for the relays on the fusebox and those are spoken for. I sure hope that relay never does go bad because I won't even be able to find it to test it or replace it or anything.
Even my Haynes manual states vaguely that it's on the left side of the dash. Gee, that really narrows it down; that's only half the car. No drawings, no pictures, no nothing. I wish it weren't such a big secret.
Thanx.
Does anybody know how to locate the starter cut-out relay on a 1994 Honda Civic VX? Color? Position? Best method of access to it?
I already know that it's on the left side of the dash, but that leaves a lot of room to locate it and I still don't know exactly what I am looking for.
Thanx!!
I had the car towed to the mechanic. Just called this morning and they're saying that it's starting up fine. I haven't even picked it up and I'm afraid to drive it for fear of being stranded somewhere. Any ideas of what it could be?
Just yesterday and the day before my car had trouble starting. It would try and the engine would make noises but for the most part it made clicking noises. Today my boyfriend jumped my car and it worked fine. It got me from my house, to the gym, to Kragen *where they replaced my battery*, to the gas station and back to my house. I turned the car off after I parked and brought my dad out to show that it was working again. Of course it didn't start. It didn't even try. What's extremely odd about it is...all the dashboard lights come on, but backwards. When the key is in the off position or completely out of the car, the lights are on. However when the key is in the in position the lights are off and its as if there is NO electricity going to my car at all. When you tap the brakes, the dashboard lights go off, but the brake lights don't come on. What's wrong with my car? The man at Kragen said that it was my battery so he replaced it. It worked fine until I started it the third time after Kragen. Can SOMEBODY please help! It only has 63K miles on it and when its running, it runs smoothly...it's getting it started which is the problem.
Thanks
HELP!!!!!!
Thanks, #374
I just jumpered mine out of the circuit to be done with it.
The clutch safety switch grounds the coil of the relay; the hot side of the relay gets its juice from the ignition key switch. I also jumpered out the clutch safety switch to eliminate that problem, so now the signal goes directly from the ignition starter switch to the starter solenoid, end of b.s.
Good luck.
Today while going to meet a co-worker it lost power at 65mph, which it has never done. We've had a tune-up and the fuel filter changed. Everyone has told us that the diagnosis computer will not read unless the check engine light is on, which it is not. One thing I have noticed is that it acts up once he's driven it several miles and then stopped or on a really hot day.
We are on an EXTREMELY tight budget with a new job and a 3 month old and we cannot afford to take it to the dealer and be charged an ungodly amount for repair. My question is, could it be a censor, such as an oxygen censor or some sort of a fuel censor. The starter is working perfect and we were told the fuel pump was okay.
PLEASE HELP!!!!!!! :confuse:
Thanks again, :mad:
My 2000 3.0L Ford Ranger won't start. Cleaned the battery connections and charged it. Lights come on strong and all the wires look ok but still no starter turnover. I was desperate to get my wife to the dentist so I climbed under the truck and shorted the starter manually with a wrench. Boom! Kicked right over and ran fine.
So apparently the starter is ok but the solenoid or relay is bad? How can you tell which one is on the fritz? :surprise: I'm in school right now so all my money just went for books. I really need to fix this myself instead of just taking it in and asking a mechanic to figure it out for me.
Thanks!
Ben
I have taken it to a couple of mechanics, and have gotten different suggestions, as no one seems to be able to re-create the problem. One said that it could be the cam shaft sensor. Unfortunately, the particular engine configuration I have requires that the entire distributor be changed in order to change the sensor. He wanted to charge me $900 just for the part, and he didn't even know for sure that was the problem. Great. I don't want to throw that kind of money into this unless I know it's gonna fix it. Is this going to be one of those problems where I just get something changed, drive it for a while and hope I don't get stuck--ad infinitum?
This car has become a problem child; I don't know what to do with it. I don't drive it much anymore because I don't want to get stuck, so it sits parked out on the street, gathering dust, pine needles, and spiderwebs.
Thank you in advance for any help you can give me.
Please advise me on this matter. I have a 1993 Ford Escort. Ihave replaced the battery, popped the fuel cutout switch several times but to no avail can I get the fuel cutout light to go off. What is my next step, it has a half of a tank of gas, and the alternator is good as well as the battery. Please help me on this matter. I know it is something simple that I am doing or not doing.
Thanks for the help.
:confuse: :sick:
J.P.
Ron
Thanks.