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Lincoln Town Car Maintenance & Repair



  • Have you flushed the system? If there is no error code (there is a sensor that can go bad) maybe an adjustment is necessary.
  • I had a similar problem. Before I replaced the fuel pump I would replace your ground cable/connection at the battery. If the car runs well after starting the fuel pump is working. It needs a good ground to start the car. When you turn on the ignition listen for the hiss from the fuel pump before cranking. If you don't hear that hiss, you most likely don't have a ground. This is an intermitant problem.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    "Why can't you just spray a bunch of WD-40 on and into the switches yourself?"

    It's a good thought, scooter - I tried that on my Navigator, but it didn't help. So evidently, something must be removed to get the oil to the switch as April says.
  • I just recently purchased a 1990 lincoln town car and changed the plugs, air filter. oil and oil filter also added some fuel injector cleaner. Ever since then the car studders while driving under 40mph. Does anyone have any ideas? Please!
  • How did it run before you messed with it?
  • it didnt studder at all before messing with it
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    Assuming you didn't pull off vacuum hoses, etc. by mistake during your work (check that), the only thing you did that should cause that would be the plugs. Did you set the gap, make sure the boots were intact and put on some dielectric grease (on the plug tip, now on yourself)? Most problems I've had like that relate to pulling off the boots and having the wire and the end connector come apart without me knowing it. Then the plug doesn't fire and I don't know why. I've had good luck with those cheap-o wire testers that you hold against the wire with the engine running and it blinks every time the plug fires. If its not firing, the light doesn't blink.

    If the shudder is due to misfire, it may be happening above 40 but you can't feel it with the V8 at high rpm's.

    My dad taught me early on that if you have a lot of stuff to replace on a good running car, replace the items one at a time, then run it so that if you did effect something negatively, you can isolate your search to that item.

    Good luck.
  • For Your Info:
    LM Customer Service gave the following info to get schematics for our car:

    I called Helm Inc .1-800-782-4356..their website is
    They carry service publications for many cars (Chevrolet, Jaguars, Pontiacs, Olsdmobile, Cadillac ,Buick and others.......I ordered an ELECTRICAL AND VACUUM TROUBLESHOOTING MANUAL for the 1997 Lincoln Town Car. It cost $30.00 plus 6.95 for shipping and handling. In the manual, the "component schematic" for the car, shows the door switches are located behind the door panels. We will loan this manual to our mechanic to assist him....maybe we can solve this problem with the anti theft alarm and the check engine light, finally!!! We will keep the manual with our car. Hope this info helps someone else. :)
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Beernut offers good advice, particularly his fathers, but now that you are still fixing, I would replace all of the plug wires, carefully, one by one. I have two 302 engines like yours and have always replaced the wires when replacing the plugs. When the 94 TC misfired, replacing the wires solved that too. Good Luck. :)
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I agree - change the wires, I'll bet it fixed your problem. While you're at it, change the Distributor Cap.
  • tophattophat Posts: 7
    If you need new air bags, they are available @
    At half the price. Then you can have your dealer install them. I bought mine their and they come with A lincoln part #.
  • beernutbeernut Posts: 329
    OR...... get rid of the bag system entirely by converting to standard suspension.
  • tophattophat Posts: 7
    If you have the original plug wires, the insulation may be breaking down. I had that problem with my 95 TC.
  • Hi, I just purchased a 2003 Town Car (Signature) series and would like to know how to eliminate the annoying dinging noise that sounds when the drivers seat belt is not fastened. #2. Can the chirp of the horn be shut off when activating the alarm. #3. I changed the oil today and am unable to re-set the over head console to 100%. It reads 39% and will not re-set even when holding the reset button for as long as 20 seconds. Thanks for any help you can provide. jh
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    You can silently activate the alarm by using the driver's door outside keypad. Press buttons 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time twice. A considerate feature when you don't want to wake the neighbors.

    Seat belt not fastened/annoying dinging noise. My guess is there is a sensor connection under the seat that could be disconnected, but of this I'm unsure. If your seat belt is too short, you can buy extensions.

    Regarding the over head console reading 39% - Maybe if the oil filter were to be changed as well, you'd achieve 100%. :) (Right, I really don't know) However, if you disconnect & reconnect the Negative battery terminal, it may reset it to 100%
  • euphonium, thanks for your reply. I have solved the Horn noise by checking the Owners book. You can discontinue that feature by going through a set procedure with the key in the ignition and pressing the remote door lock switch. As for the seat belt dinging indicator, you can trick it by starting out with the seat belt on while the car is in motion. Once your under way you can unbelt and the chime stops ringing. I know it's not good to ride without using your belt but I have a medical issue. You could also go to a salvage yard and ask them to cut the chrome male portion of the seat belt out of a wreck and then place it in the female portion of the belt in the car you are riding.. I will try over the weekend your suggestion with the Neg. cable on the battery. Once again thank you. jh
  • Fuel pump was replaced just after the 4th of July. Today, wouldn't start after 1 1/2 hour lunch. It's hot here - 100 degrees plus. Did start after trying for about 10 minutes. Any other ideas? Thanks. Janice
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    When my TC didn't start on a very hot day, I put a plastic bag of ice on the ignition module located on the driver's side of the engine. That cooled it down within a minute and it started.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Your manual should tell you how to reset the oil life indicator. It's usually a combination of buttons that you push to do it, just like de-programming the horn chirp.
  • I tried re-setting the Oil life thingy as directed via the Manual, didn't work. I bringing it to the Dealer tomorrow for a couple of other things I'll have them look at that as well.. Txs, JH
  • rontcrontc Posts: 1
    I just purchased a 2004 town car (signature model) with what I understand is the standard radio. It has a single CD player and a tape deck. It has a CD button that scrolls through three selections: RADIO, CD (internal) and "CDDJ." I assume that the last is to control a trunk mounted CD changer. I would like to install an aftermarket CD changer that will handle 10 CDs and play MP3s. What are the pitfalls and issues that I need to know about?
  • i am looking for info for my mom she bought a 2005 lincoln towncar and has been having problems getting things addressed with the dealer. ever heard of when the windshield wipers are on the dash lights dont work they told her at first the switch needed to be changed they did still did it and then they said it was just one of those little glitches that nothing could be done in my opinion when you buy a brand new car you shouldnt have to deal with glitches
  • izaclown1izaclown1 Posts: 118
    I had a frustrating one the other day. My 2000 would not shift out of park. I called the dealership. They said "tail light out, safety feature". I pulled all of the bulbs out and all were good, even the ones in the third brake light. Ask some one to touch the brakes and NO LIGHTS. Checked fues and they were all fine. I was able to turn the key to the first postition and shift into neutral and cranking it up. Drove to the dealship and they replaced the brake switch and harness. Works fine now, but was very frustrating. After talking with others, this seems to be a little more common than you would think.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    You absolutely shouldn't have to put up with glitches like that! And I've never heard of that before, which could be why the service department is shining you on. If there's another Lincoln dealer in town, try them. Otherwise, escalate nicely, your request to have this issue resolved, first with the Service Manager, then the store manager, then the Ford Rep, if necessary. Don't just take that response, it's ridiculous.
  • Our mechanic thought two of the door switches were worn and not making contact consistently... to be on the safe side, he replaced all 4 door switches and the key pad. We picked the car up last evening.Our mechanic said if the alarm does go off, maybe something in the door latch may be triggering the alarm and that will have to be replaced ??? Today , surprise, surprise - THE ALARM WENT OFF!!!! Nothing near it to trigger it, sunny, dry weather! We took it to a fellow at an alarm/security store who wanted to see if he could ground a wire to turn the alarm off.....we hoped he knew something our mechanic didn't know....he couldn't disarm it! It's factory installed.
    But, he disconnected the switch for the trunk that leads to the alarm. He and another fellow tried different things with the remote,etc. They said to close all doors, use the remote starter to lock the doors making sure the anti theft light is not displayed on the dashboard. So the problem hasn't been fixed. Any other
    suggestions? Thanks, April :mad:
  • hja1hja1 Posts: 1
    While driving the 2005 Lincoln Town Car ("Signature") I had problems withe the engine accelerating rapidly while applying brakes (resulting in a crash). Does anyone know what the possible CAUSE of this was?

    If so, please email me at [email protected]

  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I didn't know the trunk was also switched, but it makes sense. I'd replace that one too, but frankly, at this point if it were my car, I'd trade the damn thing in on a new(er) one. This is a rare problem, you won't get another one that will do this.
  • Yes, it sounds like someone was actually stepping on the gas when they thought they were stepping on the brake.
    Now they are looking for someone else to blame for their error.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Agreed. Never heard of a Town Car doing this.
  • It may be a rare problem but in this message board, a Toyota Sienna owner described the exact problem we are having with the anti theft alarm. If most cars today, have a factory installed alarm system isn't there some way they can be turned off? I'm sure when these were installed there must have been a plan made to somehow turn the alarm off.
    We just put a lot of money into the car changing the switches and the EGR's hard to believe that there isn't some solution to this problem. If we could find a car we like as much as the 97 TC we would trade it in. The car is in tip-top condition (EXCEPT FOR THIS DARN ALARM PROBLEM) especially after the maintenance that was just performed on it.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    you may want to take this to and see what they say... They're pretty good at problems.
  • I drive a limo with a radio dispatch system. I am in NYC. Every day I send messages to my company and the radio send signal will always trigger a parked car alarm. There must be some frequency used in these radios that trigger car alarms. It always amazes me. Maybe you problem has to do with a police car or taxi radio signal. If so, you will never solve the problem.
  • Hi, I had the SAME problem with my remote start after it was installed, in my 2003 T/C Signatures Series... I had to return to where I had it installed and they had to make some modification to the unit. The Tech said it had to do with all the electronics/computerized equipment in the newer cars. I don't know what they did to correct it. If your installer can not correct it contact me off line and I will give you the name & address where I had mine done. Perhaps if your tech calls them they might share the information. j/h
  • RE: Alarm sounding off Factory Installed Anti theft device is built into the electronics.
    We finally figured out that our mechanic didn't have a clue as to how to fix this. I went to a body shop and asked who handled their electronics when a car had to be fixed after an accident. He sent me to a young guy who installs alarms, fixes the electronics for his body shop. First, he tried a simple fix of grounding a wire. That worked for 3 days - then the alarm went off and the car wouldn't start! It was parked. The car had to be towed to the electronics guy.
    The next day we picked the car up. He explained as every one said: the computer is wired TO ALL THE ELECTRONICS in the car..the horn, the lights, etc.They are not linked separately. He printed a copy of the electronics schematic showing us the wiring diagram of what was connected/built in to the computer. He said the computer in the car is a "lemon"....What he did? He bypassed wires to the horn, the front and back lights, the power windows, etc. He said the alarm may still go off, but we won't hear it because of the bypassed wires. Several of his customers told me that he can fix anything! The tradeoff for bypassing the wires, the time on the dashboard clock fades out. We can live with that! Better than the horn blaring! He told us he could try to replace something in the computer that costs $875 but if it didn't work -- he could not return it and we would be stuck with it -- he wasn't confident it would work anyway. He is confident that the bypassed wires will work. He guaranteed the horn will not blare, or lights flash and our car would always start, related to the fixed alarm problem.
    We had the EGR valve replaced and the engine light is no longer on ....after 4 years!! The electronics guy recommended a new mechanic to us.
    So far -- so good! Thanks for all of your suggestions. April :)
  • Hi Folks. I'm looking for a used Original Equipment in dash GPS system for my 03 Signatue Series Lincoln. Should you know of one please let me know. Thanks, J/N
  • 2000 lincoln town car. starts off in first, goes to second, but will not go beyond. do i need to replace entire transmission. should I go to dealer or transmission repair specialist
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    It would help if you advised the mileage on the car, when you purchased it, new or used, & if the oil in the tranny has been changed.
  • 2000 Lincoln Town, 130,000 miles, Transmission oil changes @ 120, 000. Original owner, serviced every 5k
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I think it's done for......
  • I had a similar experience with my one week old '05 Signature Town Car but fortunately there was no crash involved. I suspect that the cause relates to the distance the brake pedal has to go before becoming effective. As one pivots on one's heel between the brake and accelerator in slow moving traffic, it seems possible that the brake and accelerator can be pressed together. I intend to research this issue further. Meanwhile, I hope other readers in this forum might respond. Is it typical for the Town Car to have a "soft" brake pedal where it has to be depressed an unusual distance before taking hold?
  • I have a 1994 Lincoln Town Car. Recently the check air suspension light has been on. If I turn the switch in the trunk off and drive the car, will I be doing anything damaging?
  • The warm 'no start' problem seemed to get worse. During the last week, each day I used it (I make losts of short trips), there was a warm 'no start' each day. Along with it was unusual chiming. The chimes would continue even after ignition was turned off, key removed and door opened. Was suggested by a mechanic to replace the pair of fuel pump relays ($15 plus tax). Was an easy job done by a non-mechanic. That seems to have taken care of the problem. I gave it a good (stop and start) test the past couple of days and it started each time and the excess chiming has stopped.
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    There are air lines running from the compressor to the rear air bags. Recommend they be inspected and replaced. If one of the bags needs to be replaced, it is worth the cost to do that for a knowledgeable buyer will want them fixed so you might just as well fix the unit now and get the use of it.

    Turning the switch in the trunk off won't hurt anything, but don't let the mother in law ride in the back seat. :D
  • Actually, I am the mother-in-law! Are there cheaper ways of doing it than taking it to the dealer? I'm a woman and don't know these things. I love my Lincoln and have no thoughts of selling it, although, as we know, one cannot see into the future. Thanks and Mahalo
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    A good mechanic who works on suspensions can do it. It's not terribly complex, but may require some special tools to do. I'm not sure the dealer price will be that bad though, you may want to check it out.
  • Problem with LTC 1985. Runs well after start, but refuses to start cold or hot without a cap full of gas. 3 places could not fix it, so I will with your help. What is most likely and first to check. I have fixed several other "problem cars" but this one is new to me. Has TB not C and need to know the starting sequence to refresh my understanding of just how it is to work. Thanks, [email protected]
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425
    Had an 82 Sig, 302 TB from new to '94. What worked for me was to turn the ignition key to the "ON" and wait for the electric fuel pump to push fuel into the TB. After the electric fuel pump shut off, I turned the key further to "Start". Ran it 12 years and 125k miles. Good Luck. :)
  • Thank you for that info, BUT I do not hear anything like a FP starting. So:
    1. Where is the FP located.
    2. Should the pump run in the key on position from a COLD START - FROM A HOT START?
    3. Since after pouring a cap of gas in the TB it starts and runs just fine, I can see your idea for a cold start - no fule pressure, so it has to run the FP to allow the FI to prime it, BUT after it is hot and I stop to get a beer and it also refuses to restart after just five minutes, am I wrong to think the fule pressure is still at (x pounds) and would it still need a 2 second FI to prime start it when it is hot?
    4. From the front, looking at the TB there are 2 FIs in the TB. What is job of each one? Could I un plug one to prove it is not working? One on left is different than one on the right?
    [email protected]
  • euphoniumeuphonium Great Northwest, West of the Cascades.Posts: 3,425

    (1) FP is within the gas tank in a depression of the tank. Never run out of gas!

    (2) Yes. If too much fuel is pumped, there is a return line going back to the tank.

    (3) Yes, it would still need 2 seconds to start again.

    (4) One distributes fuel to one bank of cylinders and the other to the other bank.

    (5) Why one on left is different or why one on right is different makes one wonder if one of the injectors is not the correct one for that TB.

    I once tanked up with some bad gas and limped through the tank. When empty, I poured a can of Chevron Techrolene in the tank while the engine was idling rough. Within a minute the idle smoothed out, the injectors were cleaned of olifin and normalcy from then on. Have you replaced the fuel filter recently?
  • alstr1alstr1 Posts: 1
    We are having major problems with our 2004 t/c's.They basically in the heat of the day are running rough,spittin & sputtering and wont go over 40mph. We have looked at this problem from every angle as far as our fuel supply to some one sabotaging us. We fuel 75% of the time at the same location so that was our first stop. Hess pulled the filters from this 2yr old location and found nothing wrong with the fuel no water or bad mix. Next stop was the dealership(who sucks). They at first were not finding anything wrong with the cars bec the check engine light was NOT on and again this problem would only occur if the car was run for awhile in the heat of the day. So after persitant arguing with Ford Fleet and the dealership they came back and told us that the fuel pumps were burning out due to the vehicles being run out of gas..This is totally not the case.Not one of the 8 cars that are having this problem were run out of fuel we know this for a fact. So after qustioning the technican at the dealership as to how do you tell the diffrence between a burnt out fuel pump vs a fuel pump that was burnt out from being run out of gas..YOU CANT.. So now they have replaced fuel pumps and here we are again back to the same problem...We have looked at the facts of ok maybe someone is trying to ruin us..Not the case our security is actuallly state of the art and our parking lot is well lit and not one camera has picked up anybody in the lot. So we are really at a loss.. We cant get any help or reassurance from the dealership bec they will do anything to get out of warranty work.. Ford fleet has no answers and I have cars i cant even send to the corner store.. They are all 2004's with roughly 50-60,000 miles. We purchased them from the auction and up to this past month they have been great cars with NO problems. We have kept them serviced with regular oil changes and have replaced all the fuel filters more then once but nothing seems to help. It only works for a day or 2 then bam back to this same old running rough.We are really at our witts end anybody else having such a problem or anyone have any advice?
    Thank-you its much appreciated.
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