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Remove the cowl vent screen by removing 2 long plastic screws up toward the windshield and the large rubber weather seal that runs across the front of it (engine side). Then remove screws holding down the cowl vent tray and remove it. The long screws are not easy to remove but will come out. After you remove the cowl vent screen and the cowl vent tray below it. Remove the foam rubber seal from the bottom of the cowl vent tray and replace it with silicone RTV sealant available at most auto aftermarket stores for $2. You should buy 2. The gap on my car was so large I had to use the largest bead possible. Place a bead on the tray and another on the surface under it. Besides the large gap, the reason for the large bead is that it is not easy to place the beads everywhere on both surfaces so that they will join together. Let the sealant cure before testing. Test with the A/C while on Auto if you have it.
DISCONNECT THE BATTERY FOR AT LEAST ONE MINUTE. THIS IS A
SAFETY MEASURE TO INSURE THAT THE SIDE AIR BAG (IN THE SEATBACK) IS NOT DEPLOYED.
Remove the front seat. Peel the carpet back as far as you can and place supports under it. Use a high volume fan to complete drying process. I had to run mine for 15 hours. If you don't think that much of the carpet and mat under in the front and the back are wet, you are probably wrong. I was. There is a thick foam rubber mat under the carpet that acts like a sponge.
RECONNECT THE BATTERY ONLY AFTER YOU HAVE COMPLETELY RE INSTALLED THE FRONT SEAT.
This is a simple fix but very time consuming due to the drying out process. One dealer quoted me over $200 not including removing water from the carpet.
I'm assuming a traveling salesman or something like that. I have not driven the car yet, but i obviously will when i go to pick it up, if there is anything i don't like then i won't buy it. The interior is in perfect condition and it looks perfectly maintained, but it makes me nervous someone driving it when they dont own it. what do you guys think?
I guess im asking if you guys think it just needs some freon since it's been sitting for so long, or if it may be a bigger problem. anyone have any opinions? or have any experience with the AC in a 1997. Thanks in advance
A) The left side pads are not releasing. Can we assume that, if the pads were removed and re-installed, that they have adequate life left? Depending on how the front pads were "pulled", the guides may or may not have been serviced and may not be sliding freely. There is also a chance that the left slave cylinder is binding and not fully releasing due to internal corrosion or gunk.
The right side brake is not working. Limitless causes.
is it the weather conditions. When i have my problem
there is not starter engagement and really NOTHING when you try
starting the car. Today it would not start then i tried again 5 minutes later
and it started up NO problem after I put it in N and then back to P. I have gone months without any problems
here are my theories.
1. An electronic fuel pump issue. It seems it happens
sometimes soon after fill ups. after one trip to the repair shop(no charge), it was his guess,but no
problem at the time thus he found nothing.
2. The electronic brain. This happen to a friend of mine and it was hard to catch by a
ford dealer.
3. Sometimes it helps to start if you jump the car. It is not a loose batttery/cables etc.
Any other theories? Fuel filter is new.
2.Corroded battery terminals and wires.
3. Possible anti-thief replay that affects starter sole. switch
The only thing similar between "guess"'s problem and tc94's problem is that they miss appointments because their car won't go. Otherwise, tc94 is NOT going through the same thing as guess.
I still believe there is a strong chance that guess has a weather, moisture or other ignition conductivity problem.
tc94 is likely correct the HIS problem is not weather related.
http://www.flatratetech.com/
Wet the windshield
Turn on ignition key
Turn on wiper switch and when the blades are just out of their resting place, stop them by turning off the ignition switch.
can I locate the anti-thief relay switch?
I find the same problem with a 98 Town Car. Has Ford Acknowledged this issue? Much thanks for your attention as I await your reply.
Maurice Newsome
Any ideas??
The A/C has been blowing cool air for years. but it its not as cold as it use to bee .
I would expect a 21 year old car to be leaking refrig. from everywhere there is rubber. I wouldn't fool around with it. I took my '88 to a couple of A/C places and to one dealer to see about fixing all the leaks. All of them recommended that I replace the ENTIRE SYSTEM - for less money than replacing the rubber and refilling with rare and expensive R22 . The dealer ended up being the least expensive and with the best warranty. It was around a grand and it came charged with the new, safe juice - whatever its called - I can't remember, and has been blowing cold ever since.
Sounds like that is broken. It also may control the solenoid that locks and unlocks your shift linkage now in the newer ones. Sounds like the two problems are related.