If it is an inline 4 cylinder, and they are using the proper cylinder numbering, then the correct fire order is 1,3,4,2. That is pretty much standard for an inline 4. Anything else may degrade smoothness and balance. I'm not saying you can change the fire order, I mean the designer or builder would not do that because.. With a standard 180 crank you could not have a 1,4,2,3 fire order. You must be looking at something wrong. You can't just look at numbers on wires.
Don't have that info. You'll need to look at the owner's manual or get a Chilton's guide from your public library to locate those items. The fuse box you should be able to find on your own but the pump relay could be anywhere and may not be marked. But you are on the right track in your diagnosis.
hey please help, i was just wanting to know what the firing order of a 1995 grand am se, with the 3.1 v6 is. I unfortunitly don't have the owners manual since somebody ( g/f ) was playing around with it. If anybody know I would really really really really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
I recently had to help replace a timing belt on a 95 Jetta 2.0. When disconnecting the fuel lines at the intake, I noticed that the only line w/fuel in it was the return line but I dismissed it and went about the task at hand. After replacing the timing belt and reconnecting the fuel lines, it wouldn't start. Remembering the fuel being in the return line before, I switched the fuel lines at the intake and the car will run as long as you keep your foot on the gas. I tried switching them back again to their proper positions and it won't start. Any ideas?
Hi, I have a '91 Grand Am, 2.5L, Vin "U". I just changed the plugs & I'm getting different firing orders. The owners guide says, 1-3-4-2, the GM service manual says 1-4-3-2. The old set of wires were 1-4-2-3.! Right now I have the old arrangement(1-4-2-3) & she runs ok, but it's always had terrible mileage. Anybody know what it should be? Thanks, Paul
I got a reply, thanks, now ( DUH), anybody know the coil order? I mean do the connections run 1-2-3-4 looking at the coil from the bottom up ( or clockwise)? Thanks again, Paul
have a 96 buick roadmaster with the 5.7 LT1 engine. 82k miles. When I pull up to a stop sign sometimes I notice a strong smell of fuel. I have pulled off the air cleaner assembly and looked for fuel leaks and found none. The car doesn't miss or run rough, or leave spots in the driveway. No engine trouble lights either. Any ideas? Thanks.
:confuse: Ok, my local garage is just about stumped, and before they start to replace till it's fixed, I thought that I'd try here.
Symptoms: When headlights are on, when either turn signal is turned on, the front signal works correctly, but sometimes fast. However, both rear brake lights flash along with the center brake light, and the turn signal does not work.
With either turn signal on hit the brake pedal, turn signals glow along with the center brake light.
Headlights off, sometimes normal turn signal operation. Hit brake pedal while turn signal on. Front signal fine. Back signal stops flashing on correct side. Brake lights slowly pulse along with turn signal on the other side.
Occasionally, with headlights on, and brake pedal depressed, turn key off but car keeps running. Not always, but at least 3 or 4 times.
Lastly, when I have parked the car (car turned off), foot still on brake pedal, open the door, a warning buzzer goes off (like I've left the headlights on). Foot off of brake, buzzer stops.
Other than throwing the car away and not experiencing Farfugnugen, any help??!!
OK, another symptom. I noticed when I just got back from the store, with the brake pedal depressed, and the car off, gauges were functional, and all the indicator lights were glowing (just like if the key was in, but the car not turned on).
Ok, a little more info.
I noticed something else this morning. Got into the car, BEFORE I put the key in, put my foot on the brake. All of the indicator lights (trouble lights, oil, temp, engine light, etc.) glowed faintly. These are all of the same indicator lights that go on when you put the key in and turn until just before starting or starting the car.
When I got to work and turned the car off, I then put my foot back on the brake. All of the prior indicator lights glowed again (this glowing is visible, but certainly fainter than when starting the car), and the needles for engine temp and fuel also moved to reflect current engine temp and fuel level.
I'm sure (well, as much as I can be), that the brake pedal is somehow involved. Is there a switch that might be bad? Or a common ground through the brake pedal?
1990 Lincoln Mark VII drops on Right side. Replaced Right front airbag, 2 front sway bars, 2 ride height sensors, 2 air lines, 1 solenoid, Right front strut, airbag seals., car still drops on right side. Any thoughts?
What types of problems? Like any sort of bad connections? Not being terribly familiar with this car (now let me diagnose my 67 Camaro, much easier), do the connections from the firewall come into the car from behind the fuse box?
I was thinking of deterioration of the wiring behind the fuse box yes...obvious signs of damage or shorting out or water damage. Given all the "cross-over" problems you have this seems like a reasonable possibility. I recently watched a Porsche dashboard go up in smoke for this very reason, not to suggest that this is likely in your case---but it's a good place to look if you are really stumped elsewhere.
Hi we're having problems with our 99 grand am.It was running great and this past morning when I went to start it up it started as usual and stalled right back out. The fuel pump and tank and sock all all new o/e from the dealer.Any clues? A neighbor said it might be the Mass air flow sensor? Any help is greatly appreciated!! Tom
My tcs off light comes on and then the tcs light comes on. I replaced all the vac hoses and still the problem. I did find that the abv solinoid for vac is on all the time. also the abv solinoid for vent is on all the time too. from what i read they should be at 0-1 volt at idle but they are at 12 volt all the time . I also checked all the plastic tee fittings. Any help would be great. right now the car is really not safe to drive. Thanks Ed
I have a 94 camry V6 that jerks, or surges at steady speeds between 45 and 60. It happens most while very lightly pressing the accelerator, slowly decelerating from 50 to 45 in a few seconds for example. Or while going down a slight hill at 50 and lightly touching the gas. It resembles going to slow in 5th gear with a standard. I have replaced fuel filter, plugs, pcv valve, air filter. It did it before reverse starting going out, and it did it after putting in a used transmission. But I still don't think it is a transmission problem. Seems like a fuel mixture problem, or fuel pump problem. Maybe a computer problem. I have no codes and I did have shop check the fuel pressure. I also tried fuel injector cleaner. Any ideas? Thanks.
Probably the 'lock-up' part of the tranny is staying locked-up, in an 'overdrive' gear, when it should be releasing and letting the torque converter slip. When it can't slip, it will jerk.
It basically is doing exactly what a manual does when it is in too 'high' a gear.
I OWN A HONDA CIVIC 2001 AND SOMETIMES WHEN I START DRIVING, (THOUGH I HAVE NOTICED IT AT OTHER TIMES, TOO) THERE IS A METTALIC SCRAPING LIKE SOUND. MOST OF THE TIME I DON'T HEAR ANYTHING AND I HAVE LOOKED UNDERNEATH AND HAVE NOT SEEN ANYTHING WRONG.
Wet weather causes faltering due to one or more plugs misfiring intermittently. This would appear to be a problem to be solved with a tube of silicon. Anyone know exactly where the 'Achilles Heel' is located - i.e, where splashing road water may be getting access to the ignition system? Thanks - Paul
Not a likely fix....first of all you might try running the engine at night and then taking a peek in there in a dark place, to see if you see any spark leakage.
If your wires are more than 4 years old, they probably could use replacement...wires get porous and could absorb water all along their length. That's a lot of silicon.
What are the odds that 2 transmissions would have the same problem back to back, though? And it mainly does it at 45 to 55. Never less than 45 nor more than 60. But I have thought similar theories. I even replaced the fuel filter thinking it was causing the "lock-up" to engage and disengage from getting inconsistent fuel rate. You are probably right about it being a transmission problem. That is what I thought too. Especially when reverse started slipping a month later. But after another trans, and having 2 shops stating that they think it is the engine, I'm not sure anymore. Maybe it is something simple like a computer problem, or loose motor mounts. Wishful thinking. Thanks for your reply and food for thought. Paul
Thanks. I have original (92) wires in there; guess they've put in their time. I also fixed cowelling under the suspect area with aluminum sheet to try to protect againts splash - to no good effect. Furthermore the cap the leads originate from seems very well sealed. New harness sounds like a good shot.
2001 Dodge Durango....When I put on the left turn signal, it blinks extra fast. The owners manual says to check for a defective bulb. All the bulbs seem to be working fine, but I went ahead and replaced them anyway, which did not fix the problem. The owners manual has nothing else on this topic. I was thinking that it might be the relay, but I can not find the relay...its not listed in the owners, nor is marked in either the fuse box on the side of the dash board, or the one under the hood on the drivers side.
So, any suggestions as to what might be causeing this? and if it might be the relay....where I can it?
You should be able to hear the "relay" or flasher, when you turn on the directional signal. You can ask your dealer's parts department where it is when you go there to buy it.
Due to leaving the switch on a couple of nights ago, I found a dead battery in the morning on my 97 Chrysler Sebring Convertible. I put the charger on it and now the battery is recharged, but the engine will only run about 5-10 seconds after cranking it. It starts very quickly but just will not remain running. Sounds like fuel starvation. My question: Where is the fuel pump located and is there any valve that can shut off fuel flow like that on my 98 Crown Vic that shuts off with impact. A bad fuel pump, clogged filter or such an impact valve are all I can come up with as possible culprits. Any ideas?
So could I swap one of the other relays in the bank with the fuel pump relay as a test? There is a wiper relay right beside the fuel pump relay that appears to be the exact same relay. If the wipers work, that relay should be good, right? Swapping, then should tell me the state of both relays. If the engine runs, and the wipers don't, the relay is bad. Otherwise, if the engine doesn't run and the wipers do, the relay was not the problem, right? Thanks.
i just bought a 97 tahoe 1500 2 door and when i accelerate it vibrates sometimes more than others. it only does it when im in gear and driving not idle or in park i dont know if its the u joints or drive shaft or what :sick: :sick: any help would be appreciated..
Certainly sounds like it could be a driveline problem. Depends on what is vibrating. If it's the steering wheel, it's tires. If it's a vibration throughout the vehicle, in the seat of your pants, it could be rear wheel balance orcCould be u-joints, or motor or trans mounts.
Generally tire or wheel problems only occur at a certain speed, and not over that speed or under. Driveline vibrations also have an rpm range, but you usually feel it at low speeds especially.
I have a question about self reparing on Sport Gm cars.
I am still a newbie being taught by my father in repairing cars. I have one question though. I've been looking at the Mustang and Pontiac G6. G6 is much more fuel effiicient than the Mustang. However, I like the power performance of the mustang. But the G6 has surround sound system
Have those of you own either of these cars had any trouble as self repairs on the cars? If so, tell me more about the history.
I have a 1999 Mazda B4000 and the instruments all read crazy upon starting the vehicle. I sharp rap on the dash above the panel will correct it. I think it is the ground. Where is the panel grounded from/to? Can I get to it to check it and how involved is it?
I have a 2000 Mustang GT, and I had got flowmasters put on about a month after getting the car, and all my friends say it was a bad idea because it takes away some of you power. And I can tell a huge difference in the power. Is there a better exhaust that can give you more power, and still make your car sound really good? Thanx!!!
I was running an antena wire, and may have hit something. Have a 1990 Le baron fully loaded, with/ digital gauge display. My Dome, door, click, message board and glove box lights don't work, along with the gauge display, radio, and power mirrors. Any idea what i could have hit or how to fix it?
i have a 2005 kia rio cinco which was purchased 5/20/05. the other day i was driving it and coming up to a stop and the car just turned off. It started right up and then did it again a little further down the road when I was slowing down to turn. again it started right up. about 1/2 hour later it did it twice while going straight down the road going about 20-25 mph. Took it to the dealer and they could not find anything wrong with it. This just doesn't seem normal for a car. Any suggestions? Has anyone else experienced a problem like this?
my friend had the same thing happen to his S-10. His is a manual. They fixed it with a golf tee, off all things. I forget exactly what was wrong, but there was a hole in a... oh, i can't remember the part, but there was the word vacuum in it. This might help your problem, I hope so. ANYBODY ELSE KNOW THE PART I"M TALKING ABOUT?
does anyone know what could cause this? Someone said to check oil level, but I just bought the car (used) at the end of March, and it had gone thru an entire inspection. FYI....I had just gassed up the car, b/c the fuel light was blinking occasionally (but I NEVER let the gas go too low....don't know if there's something funky w/ gas gauge). I was able to power-up the car again after a failed ignition try, and the dealer is going to try to diagnose it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated! :confuse:
After driving for about 25 minutes, there begins to be what I consider a severe hesitation, rough idling, and reduced acceleration. The check engine light came on flashing once, but after I stopped the car to drop off my wife at work, looked around to see if I could see anything wrong under the hood, and started it up again, it was running fine and the light was off. I noticed the coolant recovery tank was low, so I put more in, but had the same problem this morning after dropping my wife off. So, to recap:
After 25 minutes, rough idling, bad acceleration, rough idling. Turn car off five minutes, works fine for another 25. I have no idea, and since the "Check Engine" Light won't stay on, the OBD2 won't help, I don't think. Any help in figuring out what is happening would be appreciated.
The digital clock, air conditioner setting, and air temp displays have stopped working on my Mazda. I checked the fuses but any fuse that has anything to do with the clock also serves other lights that are operational. Is there a relay or maybe an inline fuse that I should be looking for? Any help will be greatly appreciated.
I bought a new 2004 2500HD diesel duramax in June of 2004. The truck has been in the repair shop approx. five times for not starting. At first the dealer said I had purchased dirty fuel. Lots of dirt found in the fuel filter. Each time they put a new fuel filter on. About the fourth time of having the truck in the shop they came to realize that the dirt was actually a rubber like matter. They cleaned out the filter, replaced the fuel pump (thinking the fuel pump was coming apart), pulled the gas tank to clean it. I asked them to check the engine throughly to make this material did not go through the engine. Had the truck back for about three or four weeks and would not start again. The dealership found the rubber like material in the fuel filter again. Has anyone else had this type of problem? If so what happened? :sick:
Does anyone have the electrical wiring diagram to the windshield wiper controls for an 84-model c-10 Chevy pickup with the tilt wheel? Someone had cut all the wire loose in the steering column, pulled them out and cut them out at the point of going through or to the main electrical block mounted to the fire wall under the dash. This truck has the controls in the turn signal lever and has the intermediate control. Thank you for your time and concern in this matter. Randy Cline
I just bought a used 98 Nissan Altima. The car was in an accident and the airbags were replaced. I was told that the airbag was installed properly. The guy I bought it from is a mechanic who fixed the car up after the accident. The airbag light is on. It's not flashing, the light is steady. He says that something is wrong with the sensor. He told me that I should take it to an auto technician because the dealer will railroad my pockets.
What do you think the problem could be? Does the sensor just needs to be reset? How much are we talking about to fix this?
Comments
That is pretty much standard for an inline 4.
Anything else may degrade smoothness and balance. I'm not saying you can change the fire order, I mean the designer or builder would not do that because..
With a standard 180 crank you could not have a 1,4,2,3 fire order. You must be looking at something wrong. You can't just look at numbers on wires.
Thanks for the reply - I'll give it a try.
Thanks again,
Paul
I have a '91 Grand Am, 2.5L, Vin "U". I just changed the plugs & I'm getting different firing orders. The owners guide says, 1-3-4-2, the GM service manual says 1-4-3-2. The old set of wires were 1-4-2-3.! Right now I have the old arrangement(1-4-2-3) & she runs ok, but it's always had terrible mileage.
Anybody know what it should be?
Thanks,
Paul
I got a reply, thanks, now ( DUH), anybody know the coil order? I mean do the connections run 1-2-3-4 looking at the coil from the bottom up ( or clockwise)?
Thanks again,
Paul
Symptoms:
When headlights are on, when either turn signal is turned on, the front signal works correctly, but sometimes fast. However, both rear brake lights flash along with the center brake light, and the turn signal does not work.
With either turn signal on hit the brake pedal, turn signals glow along with the center brake light.
Headlights off, sometimes normal turn signal operation. Hit brake pedal while turn signal on. Front signal fine. Back signal stops flashing on correct side. Brake lights slowly pulse along with turn signal on the other side.
Occasionally, with headlights on, and brake pedal depressed, turn key off but car keeps running. Not always, but at least 3 or 4 times.
Lastly, when I have parked the car (car turned off), foot still on brake pedal, open the door, a warning buzzer goes off (like I've left the headlights on). Foot off of brake, buzzer stops.
Other than throwing the car away and not experiencing Farfugnugen, any help??!!
OK, another symptom. I noticed when I just got back from the store, with the brake pedal depressed, and the car off, gauges were functional, and all the indicator lights were glowing (just like if the key was in, but the car not turned on).
Ok, a little more info.
I noticed something else this morning. Got into the car, BEFORE I put the key in, put my foot on the brake. All of the indicator lights (trouble lights, oil, temp, engine light, etc.) glowed faintly. These are all of the same indicator lights that go on when you put the key in and turn until just before starting or starting the car.
When I got to work and turned the car off, I then put my foot back on the brake. All of the prior indicator lights glowed again (this glowing is visible, but certainly fainter than when starting the car), and the needles for engine temp and fuel also moved to reflect current engine temp and fuel level.
I'm sure (well, as much as I can be), that the brake pedal is somehow involved. Is there a switch that might be bad? Or a common ground through the brake pedal?
Thanks again,
Jeff
Thanks,
Jeff
The fuel pump and tank and sock all all new o/e from the dealer.Any clues?
A neighbor said it might be the Mass air flow sensor?
Any help is greatly appreciated!!
Tom
I have a 94 camry V6 that jerks, or surges at steady speeds between 45 and 60. It happens most while very lightly pressing the accelerator, slowly decelerating from 50 to 45 in a few seconds for example. Or while going down a slight hill at 50 and lightly touching the gas. It resembles going to slow in 5th gear with a standard. I have replaced fuel filter, plugs, pcv valve, air filter. It did it before reverse starting going out, and it did it after putting in a used transmission. But I still don't think it is a transmission problem. Seems like a fuel mixture problem, or fuel pump problem. Maybe a computer problem. I have no codes and I did have shop check the fuel pressure. I also tried fuel injector cleaner. Any ideas?
Thanks.
Paul
Probably the 'lock-up' part of the tranny is staying locked-up, in an 'overdrive' gear, when it should be releasing and letting the torque converter slip. When it can't slip, it will jerk.
It basically is doing exactly what a manual does when it is in too 'high' a gear.
KOSLOW
If your wires are more than 4 years old, they probably could use replacement...wires get porous and could absorb water all along their length. That's a lot of silicon.
What are the odds that 2 transmissions would have the same problem back to back, though? And it mainly does it at 45 to 55. Never less than 45 nor more than 60. But I have thought similar theories. I even replaced the fuel filter thinking it was causing the "lock-up" to engage and disengage from getting inconsistent fuel rate. You are probably right about it being a transmission problem. That is what I thought too. Especially when reverse started slipping a month later. But after another trans, and having 2 shops stating that they think it is the engine, I'm not sure anymore. Maybe it is something simple like a computer problem, or loose motor mounts. Wishful thinking.
Thanks for your reply and food for thought.
Paul
So, any suggestions as to what might be causeing this? and if it might be the relay....where I can it?
Thank you in advance
Generally tire or wheel problems only occur at a certain speed, and not over that speed or under. Driveline vibrations also have an rpm range, but you usually feel it at low speeds especially.
I am still a newbie being taught by my father in repairing cars. I have one question though. I've been looking at the Mustang and Pontiac G6. G6 is much more fuel effiicient than the Mustang. However, I like the power performance of the mustang. But the G6 has surround sound system
Have those of you own either of these cars had any trouble as self repairs on the cars? If so, tell me more about the history.
Isn't this the first years for redesign or 'new' for both of these cars?
I wouldn't think there would be very much 'self repair' on new cars. Go to the dealer for warranty work....
You need to see what J D Powers says about 'First 90 Day' issues on both cars.
Do some internet searching, you should be able to find some reports on how these cars are doing.
But, first year is never a good time to buy anything, there are always some 'issues' that need to be worked out in the first year.
-Danny
Thanx!!!
Ben :confuse:
I was able to power-up the car again after a failed ignition try, and the dealer is going to try to diagnose it.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
:confuse:
After driving for about 25 minutes, there begins to be what I consider a severe hesitation, rough idling, and reduced acceleration. The check engine light came on flashing once, but after I stopped the car to drop off my wife at work, looked around to see if I could see anything wrong under the hood, and started it up again, it was running fine and the light was off. I noticed the coolant recovery tank was low, so I put more in, but had the same problem this morning after dropping my wife off. So, to recap:
After 25 minutes, rough idling, bad acceleration, rough idling. Turn car off five minutes, works fine for another 25. I have no idea, and since the "Check Engine" Light won't stay on, the OBD2 won't help, I don't think. Any help in figuring out what is happening would be appreciated.
Thank you for your time and concern in this matter.
Randy Cline
What do you think the problem could be? Does the sensor just needs to be reset? How much are we talking about to fix this?