Yes, there is a way to fix it. Unfortunately, it usually takes replacing the starter to fix it.
One thing you can check to make sure it is the problem, is to take a test light, touch it to the small wire on the starter solenoid [should be blak with yellow stripe, according to my info] and turn the key to start when it won't start. If the test light lights up, then you have confirmed it is the starter that is the problem.
It may be tough to get at. I'm not sure on that vehicle.
242 of 245 GM Level Ride by hess1 Jun 20, 2005 (7:12 am) Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg I have a '95 Caprice Classic Wagon w/level ride and having an "up problem". The level ride will fill the shocks when i have a load, but will not let the car down when i unload the back. I have to dis-connect the air line to lower the rear. Chevrolet dealer can't pinpoint the problem, could be the $900 pump or the $300 controller. question is, is a tool available to determine which one could be faulty, and the manuel says that neither part is servicable. sorry, but someone made it orginally, so it should be able to be fixed. I own a small radiator shop/garage and am looking for some help. Is this the right place? thanks, hess1 Replies to this message: • Mr_Shiftright (Jun 20, 2005 10:21 am)
Well I don't know how this system works exactly but what seems logical to me is NOT the pump but rather whatever senses a level change or load change. The pump works but the system will not "bleed" seems to be the best description.
Some components can't be serviced because of either the way they are manufactured or because they are too precise for disassembly in a shop e.g. injection pumps, etc.
I bet if you could get ahold of a schematic on how the system works you can at least pinpoint the component that is failing and maybe scrounge up a used one.
Is there a simple way to check the coil pack on a 2001 Ford Windstar. The number six coil had corrosion on it. When I cleaned off as much of the corrosion as I could, the van runs better but still has a miss. I have changed the plugs and wires already. The code I was receiving was po306. I no longer get a code but still have a miss.
have a 2002 Mitsu Galant with a battery on its last legs. Last night while installing the new battery I hit the negative terminal while tightening the positive - saw a few sparks. After I put everything back together it started up fine. BUT now the engine dies as soon as it starts. I don't get a Check engine light, so hopefully I didn't fry the ECM. I notice there's a resistor in the positive cable - can that have anything to do with my problem? The car starts perfectly every time, but dies out right away (unless I maintain pressure on the accelerator.) Thanks! /Brian
The solenoid and starter are attached to each other. The solenoid "rides" on the starter. While the solenoid may be the problem [often it is the starter windings], it is always best to replace them as a unit. The starter assembly, with solenoid is about $120, the solenoid by itself is about $85.
While I realize it sounds expensive, trust me, if you replace one portion or the other, you will later wish you had replaced the entire unit.
Also, check your local yellow pages for Auto Electric Service. Auto electric shops usually rebuild starters or have an exchange program that is far less than buying a new unit. They may be able to rebuild your unit, but be sure to explain to them that the starter has a hot start problem.
Personally, I would opt for a NAPA unit. The problem with alot of chain parts store starters and alternators is that they sometimes are mass reconditioned and the quality may not be that great. Hope this helps.
Is there a lab that will run tests on an oil filter? I have to prove that the same filter was in the car before the bearing spun. The engine's been torn down, so there's no oil to test, but the filter is still there.
My question is about a GMC full size van (the large white work vans often used for transport as a sort of mini bus). The van has dent on the passenger side on a panel just in front of the last wheel. It is about (all numbers approx.) 12 inches off the ground, 13 inches long, not very deep, and at its widest (it varies from top/bottom to middle of dent) about 4 inches wide. The van was backed into, in a parking lot, by the corner of a minivan on an angle, luckily at a very slow speed. Can anyone offer a approximation of a what a repair will cost? I know it varies by place to place, but can anyone make an educated guess? Thanks in advance!
I bought a 1998 Honda Civic EX which has like 140000 miles. Recently did a oil change, fuel filter change , oil filter change and spark plugs too.
I also got checked my timing belts, and looks like it needs to be changed in a month. My question is how by looking at the timing belts a technician can say that it needs to be changed in a month. I am not sure whether it needs to be changed immediately. Does it needs a change since it has high mileage.
I'd guess $600-1,200 to do a nice job. It really depends on where they have to stop painting...on a van sometimes you have to paint a large area before you reach an "edge" where the paint can "wrap" and adhere properly. Also depends on what they have to take off the van if anything (trim, window, etc.).
Well they are usually changed by mileage no matter what they "look" like. If you can actually SEE some damage you should change it tomorrow! Damage would include oil on it, or cracks or tears.
I'm not sure if your engine is an "interference fit"---which means that if the timing belt breaks, your pistons smash into your valves....not good. If it's a non-interference engine, then if your timing belt breaks the only thing that happens is you stop dead in your tracks, but no engine damage.
So this is also a factor in considering the urgency of doing it
Just a quick update...Firestone has determined the Mass Airflow Sensor needed to be recalibrated, since the battery was disconnected. (Still ended up costing me $100). The mechanic told me Mitsubishi's are notorious for that. If so - wouldn't the dealership have told me that when I called about my problem?
Anyhow - is there any way I can do this calibration myself instead of spending a hundred bucks extra every time I change my battery?
(Ps - this happened last time I changed the battery, but reset itself after a few hours).
I have a similar issue, except my 2004 previously owned Stratus makes a clunking/Popping noise when I am coming to a stop. I bought this car with 700 miles on it and the noise started @ about 5000 miles. The dealership tells me they will need to wait until something breaks before they can locate the source because it does not make the sound when stationary.
Thanks for trying. I printed the info you posted but from page three on it is so light I cannot read it. Not sure I would have been able to understand it if I could or that I have the ability to run the tests it appears to require. From what I see on the first two pages I believe I should be looking for a leak in the EVAP system. Perhaps an 02 Cavalier is prone to this condition and there is a first place I should look? Also didn't know there was a check engine light topic in these forums. I will look for it. Also, never got back into the forum to thank you for help on changing an O2 sensor on a 00 Impala. I changed it; the problem was solved. Thanks for that.
Try this page. The images are now large enough to read properly.
The problem is that it requires a scantool to properly diagnose that trouble code. But check all the vacuum hoses and conenctions to the EVAP system and see if any have come loose or are broken.
per you 6-7-05 response; would the pump problem noise only occur at 55-60 mph or at all speeds? I hear most profoudly at 55-60mph. also took car into another dealership and they stated the whitrring noise was a "throttle body" issue-whatever that means and the noise is "normal". I have since road tested several more 2004 Dodge Stratus and have found they all pop or clunk from a standing start and the whirring noise is anwhere from insignifant to similar sounding. I am now wondering if the insulation varies in degree from car to car. I now believe these cars are very poorly engineered.
Could anyone give me ANY information regarding the following:
Is this engine prone to problems due to intake manifold caskets disintergrating or the use of a plastic intake? I am considerating purchasing an 2005 box truck for my business, but am now skeptical??
Ihave a 1987 chevy camaro iroc. The problem is the A.C. compressor is kicking on and off when the A.C. is in the "off" position inside the car.When i turn the A.C. switch to the on position it works fine. What would cause the compressor to do this??? This problem just started a few days ago. Any suggestions would be appreciated. THANK YOU!!!!!!!
Problem unresolved--changed all sensors with the exception--oxygen--question==can the theromostat cause sticking rpm? car behaves untill temp reaches one half to three quarters then fan comes on -too late light comes on--trans shifting erratically put in park--2000 whe nit rewrites itself all problems go awayincluding light map sensor code--p0105/bario pleas respond :lemon:
I'm stumped. It would be pretty hard to know all the wheels swaps offhand. Best thing is ask the parts guy at the dealership or I bet your local tire store would know. If you can look at a '97 wheel and tire, just write down the tire size and then make a quick paper pattern of the mounting holes (you just press a piece of paper against the holes and from behind mark the bolt holes with a pencil. then you can go back to your car and compare.
Tell me what you are looking to get info about. I have a LeSabre/ParkAve 1993 service manual -- I bought them for every car I've owned since 1967 Mustang (wonder if that's worth anything to a Mustang fan?).
I'm trying to find what relay controls power to the starter. I have a friend who's a part time mechanic, he says that it's the relay. I went to the parts store in town, but they don't know what relay controls anything. If I can figure it out I can get a new one and fix it.
You didn't say whether you're getting power to starter on purple wire or not. That should have 12 volts and the the starter should show it's grounded.
If there is not power to the starter when the key is turned to start... Check Park/neutral switch. That has a yellow wire with power when cranking and purple comes out of there to go to starter.
If there is no power on yellow wire when crank requested, there is a starter enable relay that's under the dash. That has yellow in and yellow out from ignition switch which is on top of steering column about brake pedal. The starter enable relay gets signal from starter enable relay control which is a small computer box that checks the passkey resistor chip. Do you have a security light come on when you try to crank the car? If the chip is wrong or the wires to the reader in the key cylinder at the top are broken (like my 1993 LeSabre did), the wrong reading tells the computer that someone has a wrong key. So the starter enable relay does not pull on to connect the yellow wires to send power to the starter.
The starter enable relay looks like it requires the whole dash and speedo cluster to be removed to get to it. It's buried so the thief can't bypass it easily if they have a rwrong resistor key.
Does the security light on the driver information center come on when the key is first turned to "on" to show the bulb is working. Does it come on when trying to crank if the bulb is working? It allows 3 tries to crank with bad resistor reading and then disables for 4-5 minutes before it will read another key... I've had dirt on key cause a wrong reading.
I am a complete moron when it comes to cars. All I know is that it doesn't turn over, it doesn't evet make a sound when you turn the key. you can turn the key as many times as you want and nothing will happen. The battery is fine, so is the starter. Thats when my friend did some more tinkering and said it has to be the relay. We would pull 2 and switch them if: A; we knew what ones to pull, and B; we knew how to pull them. We can't seem to get the relay's to come out (sounds silly, but we can't.)
I find it hard to cough up over $300 to have an egr valve changed at a Toyota dealership - I know I can change the valve myself but how to I reset the computer so that the Check Engine lite will go out? Thanks...
Remove the negative battery cable for a few minutes.
If it resets after driving the car, you have other problems.
Are you sure this is your problem? On GM/Ford autos, these seldom go bad. I would carefully check vacuum lines for leaks that 'drive' the EGR valve. On some cars, the EGR valve may 'carbon up', and they can be cleaned, without replacing.
Hi, I'm sort of new in the mechanic world. I've helped to work on vehicles, but don't know a whole lot yet. I just bought a 74 Chevy Pickup. I don't know much about Chevy's . This is my project truck as it needs a lot of fixing up. I was told it has a 350 in it. (Can anyone tell me how I can tell if it is a 350?) The distributor is way in the back behind the carb, and the firing order is on top of the valley cover. Ok now for water or oil... on the left side of the motor, between the valley cover & valve cover when it builds pressure, it bubbles. I don't want to get burned trying to find out whether it is oil or water. So far, it's just in that one spot. I know it needs gaskets galore, but I was just wondering if it might be more serious than just replacing gaskets. Thanks, Rene'
Hello again, After the truck gets warmed up real good.. It begins to shudder at about 45 -50 mph. It sort of lurches/lopes when I come to a stop sign & I get a loud knocking noise. Anyone have any ideas on where it might be coming from? It was suggested to me that it might be a main bearing. After the oil gets hot it gets thin & things get loose. I myself was thinking either a piston arm pin, or rod knock. I also wanted to say that this site ROCKS!! Thanks to everyone for your help & input. It's priceless for a beginning mechanic such as myself.
I would temporary install a manual gauge onto the engine to monitor the oil pressure.If the reading drops below specs when warm,you might be looking at loose bearings.hopefully you have the correct oil in the engine.I feel the shudder is a different problem.If you have an auto tranny,try dropping the gear down one level and see if the shudder goes away.You could also have an engine misfire causing it too.
I have an '85 honda CRX that I'm slowly fixing up. most recently I have tried to get the rear defog to work. one of the connection pins had fallen off and I made a new one. I had to build it up quite a bit with solder to make a connection. I also taped a few small bits of wire to some of the lines that had been severed. these wires were an inch or 2 at most. at my first attempt to use the defog, it began to heat up and I smelled melting plastic from the electrical tape I used. I immediately switched off the defog but it seemed to keep heating up and <1 minute after I turned it on the back window shattered. I presume from heat buildup. I have replace the window and the new window has both original connector pins and all the heating lines are intact, however I'm reluctant to connect it all up. is there a chance the wiring is getting too much power? Did my "repair" attempts cause too much current to flow? Might there be an electrical problem here? it did seem that when i switched it off that the window did not stop heating. Is there a way to test the power output before I blow out another window? What can I do?
There's no such thing as "too much power" if the charging system is working properly. It's a 12 volt system, runs at about 14.2 volts with the alternator charging. The current draw depends on the resistance of the load, which you probably reduced by playing with the defroster grid. Hook it up, turn it on, and you'll be good to go. Btw, if you ever damage a grid line again, spend $5 on a defroster grid repair kit at any decent auto parts store.
I have a 1998 Honda Civic LX sedan. My daughter was driving it last night and she said all of the panel lights, headlights, and radio lost power for mere seconds and then came back on. This happened twice in a four hour period. I took it in this morning and had a battery and alternator diagnostic run and all was clear. Any suggestions.
Check for corroded fuses and loose couplers (plugs) under the dash. You can play the radio and start jiggling wires to see if anything cuts off. Be careful and don't yank on anything...do this gently.
yeah right.. I'm in New Zealand. nothing here is $5! LOL! Thanks for the info. I had no idea such things existed. Is there any other reasonable explanation or test I can do B4 I hook it up? I'm totally freaked I'll blow out another window. I really can't afford to find another one and i'm not sure how to measure or test if it's working properly. would an inch of wire on the grid make that much difference? I'm out of my league when it comes to wiring and power stuff. I'm mechanically gifted only.
I have an turn signal light which doesn't stay tight in the socket. The parts store has little packs of something called bulb grease (or something) to coat the contacts...is this any different from Vaseline?
That sounds like a mechanical problem. The bulbs usually ahve little prongs that have to go in channels to the bottom of the socket and then the bulb is rotated to follow the channels and lock the bulb into place. It sounds like part of that process isn't working. Take a look at the bulb, prongs, and channels to see if you can tell what's not right.
The grease won't fill space and make the bulb stay in place. It would slow down corrosion and keep water out of the space.
Before hooking up the new window, start the engine and use a voltmeter between the grid power feed wire and a good ground. Should be about 13.5 - 14.5 volts. If so, you should be good to go.
Here are a couple of products you might be interested in:
yeah if you're twisting the bulb and the prongs of the bulb are seating properly in the socket (you push in and twist), then either the bulb is wrong for the socket (check the owners manual for the replacement number), or the socket itself is mechanically defective in some way. perhaps there is a mechanical spring which you can pull on to increase the force it applies against the contacts and the bulb to keep it in place.
Comments
Unfortunately, it usually takes replacing the starter to fix it.
One thing you can check to make sure it is the problem, is to take a test light, touch it to the small wire on the starter solenoid [should be blak with yellow stripe, according to my info] and turn the key to start when it won't start. If the test light lights up, then you have confirmed it is the starter that is the problem.
It may be tough to get at. I'm not sure on that vehicle.
Bookmark | Reply | E-mail Msg
I have a '95 Caprice Classic Wagon w/level ride and having an "up problem".
The level ride will fill the shocks when i have a load, but will not let the car down when i unload the back. I have to dis-connect the air line to lower the rear. Chevrolet dealer can't pinpoint the problem, could be the $900 pump or the $300 controller. question is, is a tool available to determine which one could be faulty, and the manuel says that neither part is servicable. sorry, but someone made it orginally, so it should be able to be fixed. I own a small radiator shop/garage and am looking for some help. Is this the right place? thanks, hess1
Replies to this message:
• Mr_Shiftright (Jun 20, 2005 10:21 am)
Some components can't be serviced because of either the way they are manufactured or because they are too precise for disassembly in a shop e.g. injection pumps, etc.
I bet if you could get ahold of a schematic on how the system works you can at least pinpoint the component that is failing and maybe scrounge up a used one.
Thanks! /Brian
While the solenoid may be the problem [often it is the starter windings], it is always best to replace them as a unit.
The starter assembly, with solenoid is about $120, the solenoid by itself is about $85.
While I realize it sounds expensive, trust me, if you replace one portion or the other, you will later wish you had replaced the entire unit.
Also, check your local yellow pages for Auto Electric Service.
Auto electric shops usually rebuild starters or have an exchange program that is far less than buying a new unit.
They may be able to rebuild your unit, but be sure to explain to them that the starter has a hot start problem.
Personally, I would opt for a NAPA unit.
The problem with alot of chain parts store starters and alternators is that they sometimes are mass reconditioned and the quality may not be that great.
Hope this helps.
Trouble code info
It is in a pdf file, so you will need adobe acrobat reader.
The file will be removed after a few days.
My question is about a GMC full size van (the large white work vans often used for transport as a sort of mini bus). The van has dent on the passenger side on a panel just in front of the last wheel. It is about (all numbers approx.) 12 inches off the ground, 13 inches long, not very deep, and at its widest (it varies from top/bottom to middle of dent) about 4 inches wide. The van was backed into, in a parking lot, by the corner of a minivan on an angle, luckily at a very slow speed. Can anyone offer a approximation of a what a repair will cost? I know it varies by place to place, but can anyone make an educated guess? Thanks in advance!
I bought a 1998 Honda Civic EX which has like 140000 miles. Recently did a oil change, fuel filter change , oil filter change and spark plugs too.
I also got checked my timing belts, and looks like it needs to be changed in a month. My question is how by looking at the timing belts a technician can say that it needs to be changed in a month. I am not sure whether it needs to be changed immediately. Does it needs a change since it has high mileage.
Please advice.
Thank You
Aj
I'm not sure if your engine is an "interference fit"---which means that if the timing belt breaks, your pistons smash into your valves....not good. If it's a non-interference engine, then if your timing belt breaks the only thing that happens is you stop dead in your tracks, but no engine damage.
So this is also a factor in considering the urgency of doing it
to be recalibrated, since the battery was disconnected. (Still ended up costing me
$100). The mechanic told me Mitsubishi's are notorious for that. If so - wouldn't
the dealership have told me that when I called about my problem?
Anyhow - is there any way I can do this calibration myself instead of spending
a hundred bucks extra every time I change my battery?
(Ps - this happened last time I changed the battery, but reset itself after a few
hours).
Thanks in advance!
Brian
I havnt heard the whirring noise....yet.
Also, never got back into the forum to thank you for help on changing an O2 sensor on a 00 Impala. I changed it; the problem was solved. Thanks for that.
The images are now large enough to read properly.
The problem is that it requires a scantool to properly diagnose that trouble code.
But check all the vacuum hoses and conenctions to the EVAP system and see if any have come loose or are broken.
Is this engine prone to problems due to intake manifold caskets disintergrating or the use of a plastic intake? I am considerating purchasing an 2005 box truck for my business, but am now skeptical??
Thank you.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If there is not power to the starter when the key is turned to start...
Check Park/neutral switch. That has a yellow wire with power when cranking and purple comes out of there to go to starter.
If there is no power on yellow wire when crank requested, there is a starter enable relay that's under the dash. That has yellow in and yellow out from ignition switch which is on top of steering column about brake pedal. The starter enable relay gets signal from starter enable relay control which is a small computer box that checks the passkey resistor chip. Do you have a security light come on when you try to crank the car? If the chip is wrong or the wires to the reader in the key cylinder at the top are broken (like my 1993 LeSabre did), the wrong reading tells the computer that someone has a wrong key. So the starter enable relay does not pull on to connect the yellow wires to send power to the starter.
The starter enable relay looks like it requires the whole dash and speedo cluster to be removed to get to it. It's buried so the thief can't bypass it easily if they have a rwrong resistor key.
Does the security light on the driver information center come on when the key is first turned to "on" to show the bulb is working. Does it come on when trying to crank if the bulb is working? It allows 3 tries to crank with bad resistor reading and then disables for 4-5 minutes before it will read another key... I've had dirt on key cause a wrong reading.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If it resets after driving the car, you have other problems.
Are you sure this is your problem? On GM/Ford autos, these seldom go bad. I would carefully check vacuum lines for leaks that 'drive' the EGR valve. On some cars, the EGR valve may 'carbon up', and they can be cleaned, without replacing.
Ok now for water or oil... on the left side of the motor, between the valley cover & valve cover when it builds pressure, it bubbles. I don't want to get burned trying to find out whether it is oil or water. So far, it's just in that one spot. I know it needs gaskets galore, but I was just wondering if it might be more serious than just replacing gaskets.
Thanks, Rene'
After the truck gets warmed up real good.. It begins to shudder at about 45 -50 mph. It sort of lurches/lopes when I come to a stop sign & I get a loud knocking noise. Anyone have any ideas on where it might be coming from? It was suggested to me that it might be a main bearing. After the oil gets hot it gets thin & things get loose. I myself was thinking either a piston arm pin, or rod knock.
I also wanted to say that this site ROCKS!! Thanks to everyone for your help & input. It's priceless for a beginning mechanic such as myself.
That sounds like a mechanical problem. The bulbs usually ahve little prongs that have to go in channels to the bottom of the socket and then the bulb is rotated to follow the channels and lock the bulb into place. It sounds like part of that process isn't working. Take a look at the bulb, prongs, and channels to see if you can tell what's not right.
The grease won't fill space and make the bulb stay in place. It would slow down corrosion and keep water out of the space.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Here are a couple of products you might be interested in:
http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=21351
http://www.permatex.com/products/prodidx.asp?automotive=yes&f_call=get_item&item_no=15067