Hi, I have 1993 Pontiac Sunbird in which the A/C doesn't work. Heat works perfect, cooling is the only problem in my car. It has R12 in it. I checked a couple of places today where they said they will charge $40 to identify the problem.
Question 1: Do you know of any shops where they identify the problem and give an estimate "free"? I live in Raleigh, North Carolina. Question 2: If there are leaks in the compressor, how much does it cost to fix the leaks? Do they have to change the compressor entirely or is there an easy way to fix the leaks? Question 3: How much does it cost to fix leaks in the tubes/hoses?
I really appreciate your help on this. I am in a big dilemma about this expensive A/C repair. Please help.
I have a 95 Cad Deville 4.9 that I have just replace the compressor and recv on and cannot find the location of the orifice tube that they sold me with this unit. Can you help me? Thanks
I broke the top (handle) off the oil Dipstick on my 88 Buick LeSabre 3800 engine so that in order to check the oil I have to grab the stick with a pliers. I would like to buy a replacement handle or complete dipstick but can not find them anywhere. Does anyone have a good source for new or used dipsticks?
HC are high and so is CO. It's a 1988 Integra with 133k miles, which for the past couple of years get "Check Engine" light after it gets good and warm.
A Honda specialist suspected oil in the spark plugs. There was indeed oil in the plugs. Said some things to reduce HC would cause NO to increase, which would also cause failure on the smog test.
He ran down possible things:
- Replacing those gaskets - Tune up - Possibly replacing catalytic converter, which may have been hurt by the leaking oil and possibly by MTBE in the gas.
If catalytic converter is replaced along with the other suggested repairs, that's $600 to begin with.
Under CA CAPS program, I could apply for up to $500 aid to do repairs after I pay first $100.
Or I could have the car dismantled and they would pay me $1000, which is about what the car might fetch if I sold it.
Not in your state. Too much money and that doesn't include any problems that will pop up with any car with that many miles on it. They recently instituted strict pollution guidelines here (upstate N Y). Its a major pain but if it keeps the air clean i guess..........
According to my mechanic, my car has three catalytic converters. The rear one, well, took a dump. His cost is $300, not including labor, I'm sure. I priced a new one at a parts store and it's cost is $275. Someone mentioned to me that a universal converter may work and would cost me $80. Can anyone give a poor girl direction? Thanks.
"someone mentioned" that an $80 "universal" converter "may work"? Well, unless you plan on doing the work yourself, it only matters what your mechanic says, right? Did you ask him/her if this universal converter would work AND if they would install it if it does? Heck, since you're not sure of that price, maybe that $300 price IS a cheap converter plus labor.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Engine will not start unless fuel filter is removed to drain and relieve pressure. When I re-tighten the fuel filter the engine starts perfectly...until a few starts later and i go through the same process again. I am using a new fuel filter. Could it be the fuel pressure regulator. I have gone through this procedure about 5 times.
A metal AC line runs across the firewall on the passenger side. I think the orific tube is in there. I think there is also one of the pressure sensors in this line - in other words there is a wire/wires going into a sensor in the line right there. And there are connectors that will separate this line. Watch how the old tube comes out, there is a small end and a large end, right? Reversed, it will not work.
Oh, dang, I just noticed you have a 4.9, not a Northstar. All I've had - a 95 and a 97 have been Northstars. Yours might not have the line in the same place......
I had someone break into my 2001 Accord Coupe. They threw a rock through the passenger window. The impact actually damaged the window regulator. I need to get a new one in order for the new window to be used. According to the window replacer, the motor is still good and I would just need to replace the scissor arms. Basically replace it and have someon hold the window up while doing it.
Is it that simple? How do you replace just the regulator arms and not the motor?
I am not a real car know it all...so if anyone knows and has some basics- that would help a lot.
Well first of all you'll have to have a glass shop place the new window in its channel, which then attaches to the window regulator.
How much trouble you will have kind of depends on the car and also on accessibility. Usually it's pretty tight in those door panels so while the job isn't too complicated it can be very tedious. Sometimes it really helps to have someone else holding things in place for you.
I'm not sure how a rock can damage a window regulator---that seems very odd to me.
THANKS...yeah, i thought the same thing. how could the impact snap the regulator. maybe it was the guy who installed the glass. the glass is in the channel and i figured that someone needs to hold it in place.
i have a 92 explorer 4 wheel drive stick,and was shifting from n.to first out of the blue nothing happend.its got good pedal,and with it running i can shift threw all gears with the clutch out,nothing happens,not even a noise.i replaced the clutch 1 year ago.its got 200,000 miles on it,and has always been good to me.please help thank you 4 your time, no shift
DEFLY DUCT TAPE. the accessibility and detaching it from the good motor is what i fear. i am not handy and i know this could be fairly simple but made difficult under the conditions of trying to find a way to get the new part in.
My teenage daughter recently bought a 1994 Grand Marquis for $500. The body is in really good condition. The motor runs beautifully and the mechanic said it had no problems. It has a brand new sound system (I think that's why she bought it). It has four brand new tires. I figure she bought a sound system and a set of tires with a car thrown in.
But here's the problem. Took it to get it inspected since that's an annual requirement in our state. It passed emissions with flying colors, but the mechanic said we needed new front headlight assemblies because there was "barely any reflection," (the lens are very cloudy) the same thing for the right rear headlight assembly, and a side marker light assembly. For all of this he wanted to charge $1,300.00.
Isn't that something that we could buy the parts for and do ourselves for much less by roping in her older sister's auto savvy fiance. Is this a reasonable quote?
i would be suspicious of anybody who does the required inspection AND does the repairs.i think that is very steep.i would get a second oppinion.those parts can be easily obtained in a boneyard for a fraction of that cost.sounds like you got a great deal on a good car.
It's too bad because 132k for a 17-year old car doesn't seem that much and the engine runs fine, aside from the emissions issue and the check engine light.
But it's probably just as well that it's dismantled and not polluting.
hello all other shade tree mechanics...... I asked a month ago for help diagnoising a 84 escort that developed a pattern of idling fine and accellerating fine but would not "cruise" ,,, that is drive at a steady speed, with out bucking and jerking. I found the problem (even though I never got any help here) and want to send along the cure . the T.P.I. is a small electro gizmo that attaches to the side of the CFI (central fuel injector) and tells the ECM whether to be in idle mode or CRUISE mode or WOT (wide open throttle) it cost less than 50$ and is a wear-out item. the part of the rheostat that is most used is the middle position which is the CRUISE position., so it wears out first.... makes sense now, but had me going crazy till I got it fixed...
A lot of headlight lens haze, or 'brown' up at about this age. Many of the salvage yard lens will have the same problem. A lot of it is just age, and the salvage ones are just as old as the ones in her car.
In many cases, the haze can be polished off. If you can find a plastic polish, and with a lot of hand rubbing, you can bring the lens back to life. Check a motorcycle shop, they carry plastic polish for the cycle windshields. If you can't find this, regular auto polish might help.
If you, or this fiance, know how to use a power buffer, it would be much less work and much quicker.
With my buffer skills, I would probably melt a hole in a lens.....
Agreed on the plastic polish - they sell it around here at Auto Works. I have a 94 Grand Marquis as well, and they are terrific cars. If you see any Ford products from that period, most of the headlights are foggy, and if the polish doesn't work, new headlight assemblies are available from third parties, as well as Ford. However, only the headlights from a 92-94 Grand Marquis will fit.
I also agree that I would get a 2nd opinion on the repair - they bill sounds excessively high.
That sounds like a good possible solution. I've successfully buffed out old red tail light lenses (it is a bit of work( but never tried it on white lenses).
I havea 1994 standard grand am Last night on the way home it started to over heat, i felt the hot air blowing out of the vents. Once tha was happening we noticed the water temp gauge rising very quickly. We ended up pulling over in a lot and notice it was POURING coolant out of the L shaped house at the back of the engine housing area (firewall). Less than 2 weeks ago we had teh water pump replaced. Any Ideas? The sooner the better...
As i was trying to open the hood, the cable snapped. Temporary fix for it is pliers, but i want to know what would be involved in replacing the cable, am I able to just pull that cable out and string a new one through the sheath thats there?
I have an '85 Honda CRX that I'm fixing up and someone cut the radio out and didn't leave me the pin-block to put in a new one. I'm trying to figure out how to install a new radio but all I can do so far is make a LED in the radio come on when the key is turned on. Are there online resources I can use? How do you find out the color codes for radio wires coming out of the car? I'm fine on speakers and such but the whole power in cars thing is new to me.
That's exactly how I replaced the hood release cable on our '94 Cutlass Supreme. As long as you have a string tied to the old one, it will be really easy pulling the new one back into place. Just be sure to remove as much interior trim and components under the hood that may be in your way.
I own a 1998 Acura Integra GSR. Yesterday after driving it back home, I parked the car normally. Today when I tried to start the car, it failed to do so. (I did not leave my lights on). The battery seemed very weak, so I jump-started the car, drove it for 20 minutes and parked it. When I try to start the car after a few minutes, I had the same problem. The battery is about 3 years old and I'm not sure what is going on. Can anyone help?
i have a 1996 900se turbo convertible with about 60000 miles on it. recently it began giving me trouble when i try to start it. it takes a few more seconds than normal to turn over, and then feels weak and sort of sputters and the front end shakes. it seems to improve somewhat if i press on the gas, but i'm worried. any help will be greatly appreciated. thank you.
On older cars, the lower speeds are gotten through running the current through a 'resistor pack' for the lower speeds. This resistor pack is usually under the hood, on the housing where the blower motor sits. It 'burns up/out' and the lower speeds stop working, but the top speed works since it doesn't use the pack, it has a separate wire directly to the blower for full speed.
I have no idea if your car has such a resistor pack or not. Or exactly where it would be found.
The sidewall prints the maximum pressure, but that's not necessarily the recommended pressure. That info is usually on the door pillar or on a label in the glove box. Right?
My car has the tcs going on problem. I checked all the vac lines and solinods. the only thing I found with a vac gauge is that the egr never gets any vac. so it never opens. I checked the egr vac and vent solinods and they are fine. but still no vac to the egr any ideas what might control the egr, maybe the vac amplfier also called the map sensor on american cars. I don't know how to check it, the solinoid for it does work and it has vac thanks ed
In addition to checking the battery, check your alternator to be sure it is charging...if your batt has no more guts inside, you can burn out your alternator as it kills itself continually trying to charge a batt that may not accept a charge...
Lastly, check your fan/serpentine belt to be sure it is snug against the alternator pulley...if it is loose, you may have a perfect battery and alternator, but the alternator won't charge because the belt is slipping and the alt is not spinning...
While you're at it, clean out your ashtrays and vacuum the carpets... :P :shades:
My 97 Grand Marquis(4.6L)has begun to ping under acceleration.I removed,checked and cleaned the EGR valve and its passages.The engine still pings.No codes are present.I checked EGR operation and vacuum,everything seems to be functioning.Any ideas?
Have the knock sensor operation verified with a scan tool. Should send a signal to the ECU to retard ignition timing when ping is detected. Replacement requires removal of the upper intake manifold. Also have it scanned for any stored trouble codes, and verify coolant temp.
Hi, I'm not sure I've posted right, I couldn't find how to start a thread, so an replying. Sorry.
I bought my Cavalier in Sept. 04. I haven't put on 500 miles and have had a new crank shaft, ignigion gasket, spark plugs, spark plug wires, muffler, tires, battery, serpentine belt (3x) idler tensioner (3x) a motor mount, you name it. The lastest thing I had done was have a new compressor put in. The first one wasn't a rebuilt and for the price ($900) I had him redo and put in a "new" compressor. Since this compressor is in when I turn on the air conditioning OR heat, the car makes a click click noise, and shimmies. It does now however do EITHER (no noise, no shimmying) when the heat or air is not on. I returned it to the mechanic yesterday that put in the compressor and was told "it's because it's a small car, 4 cylinder, etc. ) I can't imagine that Chevy when they built the car didn't allow for the fact that people would use air conditioning and heat and not expect it to totally "disrupt" the functioning of the car. The mechanic says the compressor is fine. I'm totally confused here, as I don't drive much but each time I have, I've had another problem and it is very distressing. I've put nearly as much money in repairs into this car as I paid for it. Mileage is 28,195. Body is excellent and a carfax was done to check that the mileage was new. Can Mr. Shiftright or any knowledgeable person tell me how to proceed and what you think might be causing the click click and shimmying witht the AC or heat on. Thanks so much. I'm ready to SCREAM. Candie :mad:
Comments
Question 1: Do you know of any shops where they identify the problem and give an estimate "free"? I live in Raleigh, North Carolina.
Question 2: If there are leaks in the compressor, how much does it cost to fix the leaks? Do they have to change the compressor entirely or is there an easy way to fix the leaks?
Question 3: How much does it cost to fix leaks in the tubes/hoses?
I really appreciate your help on this. I am in a big dilemma about this expensive A/C repair. Please help.
Thanks.
Steve, Host
If not, try a wrecking yard (or "used car parts emporium" or whatever they are called now). Maybe you can pull one off of a junker.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
A Honda specialist suspected oil in the spark plugs. There was indeed oil in the plugs. Said some things to reduce HC would cause NO to increase, which would also cause failure on the smog test.
He ran down possible things:
- Replacing those gaskets
- Tune up
- Possibly replacing catalytic converter, which may have been hurt by the leaking oil and possibly by MTBE in the gas.
If catalytic converter is replaced along with the other suggested repairs, that's $600 to begin with.
Under CA CAPS program, I could apply for up to $500 aid to do repairs after I pay first $100.
Or I could have the car dismantled and they would pay me $1000, which is about what the car might fetch if I sold it.
Is the car worth rescuing?
I priced a new one at a parts store and it's cost is $275.
Someone mentioned to me that a universal converter may work and would cost me $80.
Can anyone give a poor girl direction?
Thanks.
Well, unless you plan on doing the work yourself, it only matters what your mechanic says, right? Did you ask him/her if this universal converter would work AND if they would install it if it does? Heck, since you're not sure of that price, maybe that $300 price IS a cheap converter plus labor.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Oh, dang, I just noticed you have a 4.9, not a Northstar. All I've had - a 95 and a 97 have been Northstars. Yours might not have the line in the same place......
Is it that simple? How do you replace just the regulator arms and not the motor?
I am not a real car know it all...so if anyone knows and has some basics- that would help a lot.
How much trouble you will have kind of depends on the car and also on accessibility. Usually it's pretty tight in those door panels so while the job isn't too complicated it can be very tedious. Sometimes it really helps to have someone else holding things in place for you.
I'm not sure how a rock can damage a window regulator---that seems very odd to me.
But here's the problem. Took it to get it inspected since that's an annual requirement in our state. It passed emissions with flying colors, but the mechanic said we needed new front headlight assemblies because there was "barely any reflection," (the lens are very cloudy) the same thing for the right rear headlight assembly, and a side marker light assembly. For all of this he wanted to charge $1,300.00.
Isn't that something that we could buy the parts for and do ourselves for much less by roping in her older sister's auto savvy fiance. Is this a reasonable quote?
Thanks in advance!
It's too bad because 132k for a 17-year old car doesn't seem that much and the engine runs fine, aside from the emissions issue and the check engine light.
But it's probably just as well that it's dismantled and not polluting.
http://www.lincolnsonline.com/article19.html
In many cases, the haze can be polished off. If you can find a plastic polish, and with a lot of hand rubbing, you can bring the lens back to life. Check a motorcycle shop, they carry plastic polish for the cycle windshields. If you can't find this, regular auto polish might help.
If you, or this fiance, know how to use a power buffer, it would be much less work and much quicker.
With my buffer skills, I would probably melt a hole in a lens.....
I also agree that I would get a 2nd opinion on the repair - they bill sounds excessively high.
Last night on the way home it started to over heat, i felt the hot air blowing out of the vents. Once tha was happening we noticed the water temp gauge rising very quickly. We ended up pulling over in a lot and notice it was POURING coolant out of the L shaped house at the back of the engine housing area (firewall).
Less than 2 weeks ago we had teh water pump replaced.
Any Ideas? The sooner the better...
As i was trying to open the hood, the cable snapped. Temporary fix for it is pliers, but i want to know what would be involved in replacing the cable, am I able to just pull that cable out and string a new one through the sheath thats there?
thank you.
Pull the battery and take it to Autozone, etc, they can load test the battery. And sell you a new one.
Thanks.
IqalAm
I have no idea if your car has such a resistor pack or not. Or exactly where it would be found.
What pressure do Goodyear recommend for their 305 x 70 Wrangler ATS?
Roy.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
See Tires, tires, tires for various threads about this.
Steve, Host
Lastly, check your fan/serpentine belt to be sure it is snug against the alternator pulley...if it is loose, you may have a perfect battery and alternator, but the alternator won't charge because the belt is slipping and the alt is not spinning...
While you're at it, clean out your ashtrays and vacuum the carpets... :P :shades:
http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBroker?ForwardPage=/az/cds/en_us/0900823d/80/14/46/b7/09- 00823d801446b7.jsp
I bought my Cavalier in Sept. 04. I haven't put on 500 miles and have had a new crank shaft, ignigion gasket, spark plugs, spark plug wires, muffler, tires, battery, serpentine belt (3x) idler tensioner (3x) a motor mount, you name it. The lastest thing I had done was have a new compressor put in. The first one wasn't a rebuilt and for the price ($900) I had him redo and put in a "new" compressor. Since this compressor is in when I turn on the air conditioning OR heat, the car makes a click click noise, and shimmies. It does now however do EITHER (no noise, no shimmying) when the heat or air is not on. I returned it to the mechanic yesterday that put in the compressor and was told "it's because it's a small car, 4 cylinder, etc. ) I can't imagine that Chevy when they built the car didn't allow for the fact that people would use air conditioning and heat and not expect it to totally "disrupt" the functioning of the car. The mechanic says the compressor is fine. I'm totally confused here, as I don't drive much but each time I have, I've had another problem and it is very distressing. I've put nearly as much money in repairs into this car as I paid for it. Mileage is 28,195. Body is excellent and a carfax was done to check that the mileage was new. Can Mr. Shiftright or any knowledgeable person tell me how to proceed and what you think might be causing the click click and shimmying witht the AC or heat on. Thanks so much. I'm ready to SCREAM.
Candie :mad: