Got a Quick, Technical Question?

driftracer · December 2004

your tank and is not related - you mean the water pump? Not a bad idea.

vrm · December 2004

Here is the update:
I replaced all the 3 belts (A/C, PS and water pump) with original belts made by Goodyear. I also did a PS fluid flush.

So far so good. I have not heard the loud squeaky noise since the repair. The steering feels lighter and I have not experienced any loss of PS.

I am thinking about doing a second PS fluid flush in 4 weeks. This should get rid of any remaining dirt/contamination in the system. Thanks for your advice.

icrman · December 2004

It sounds like your getting alot of shimmy. The old VW bugs must have got it allot also because the factory installed a small shock absorber that attaches to the tie rod to dampen the shimmy. I would check for any looseness in the front end components, especially the tie rod ends and the steering gear.

driftracer · December 2004

are known for blowing the weak OEM steering damper - check there first.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2004

If this shimmy occurs when you hit a bump, definitely check the damper. If that's not it, then keep looking, as you have a potentially dangerous situation. Something under there is too loose.

ezshift5 · December 2004

Yes, I DO mean the water pump. Thanks drift...ez

suvshopper4 · December 2004

I appreciate the link, 0patience.

As to why the mfr and the dealerships don't recommend changing the brake fluid, I guess maybe that's just one of life's mysteries.

-ss4

stickguy · December 2004

I would always do the water pump with the timing belt, unless it is a particularly expensive unit, or the miles were piled up quickly. You get free labor, since they have to take the old one off anyway.

I think brake fluid changes, like other routine maintenance, was taken off the schedule so they could claim the cars cost less to maintain. Of course, the manual usually calls for inspections, so the dealer can still recommend replacement to get the service $$.

I believe in preventive maintenance. Maybe I don't have to change the oil at 3K or coolant at 30K, but I can't see where it will hurt, and might save money in the long run (especially tranny fluid changes). Plus, it makes me feel good!

nation1 · December 2004

My oil light flickers on and off when the engine is running and then it stays on. If I shut the engine off and crank it back up, the light stays off for a little while and then goes back on. Yet, the engine seems to be running okay. Is it an oil pump problem or a light problem?
It's a 1997 LX Accord with 118,000 hard miles. There is a lot of sludge built up inside the engine. Just bought it--didn't know it.

qbrozen · December 2004

have you checked the oil level? You didn't say if it is actually full or not.

And, have you changed the oil and filter? If you change the oil and it is topped off and the light still comes on, it could be the oil pressure triggering it.

mmx6 · December 2004

I just bought a 1998 Nissan 240SX off Ebay (oops) and I've noticed two problems:

- A really stiff gas pedal that often needs a SHOVE to get it to move from rest. Once it gets moving, the rest of the pedal motion is fine, but the need to shove it is annoying and makes me burn out at red lights. Most people think I need a throttle body cleaning, but this stiff motion applies when the car's off, so does that still apply?

- 16 MPG!!! What's up with this? I should be getting about 24 overall. Over at SE-R.net (for Nissan Sentra/200SX SE-R owners, who have different engines) they say bad gas mileage is usually due to either a bad throttle body or a bad oxygen sensor. Could it be anything else? How do I check its health, and is it expensive to replace?

Thanks for any help.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2004

What you really need to do here is to screw in an analog oil pressure gauge so you know what's reallly happening. Many shops have these as test tools.

No harm in an oil and filter change but if indeed the engine is really sludged up, you got problems. I don't know how hard it is on that car to drop the pan and clean the oil pump pickup screen, but that's one thing you might do before tearing into the oil pump itself.

But it would be good to know what the actual oil pressure is, when hot and when at reasonable RPMs. Oil pressure at idle is somewhat irrelevant.

good luck and let us know how you're doing.

Shifty

alcan · December 2004

For the sticky pedal, clean the throttle body. Remove the air intake ducting, have someone hold the throttle plate wide open, spray aerosol air intake cleaner in (NOT carb cleaner), scrub the bejeepers out of it, especially the back side of the throttle plate, mop up the residue with shop wipers or paper towels. Done deal.

johnny4 · December 2004

My ac clutch bearing is out and money is tight right now so I want to remove the belt, but by doing so the air pump will no longer work. Will this cause any problems and how can I correct them?

zx2_man · December 2004

I currentley have a red 2000 zx2 with 92,786 miles on it and i recentley just started hearing a wierd vibrating noise when the engine gets in between 3500 and 4000 rpm. Its really wierding me out. Any help would be thankful.

jfpad · December 2004

When I started my 2003 Forrester the other day, the engine seemed shaky and hesitant. When I'd step down harder on the accelerator the car would move sluggishly. Finally, after running like this for about a mile or two, the check engine light came on, the car stalled completely, and we smelled some kind of smoke/exhaust inside the car.

I then was able to start the engine again so we could pull off the road. When we drove if off the road, a woman who was driving behind us stopped and let us know that there was some fire or glow coming out of the exhaust when we accelerated.

Finally, today, I took the car to a Subaru dealer (we had it towed there) and they couldn't find anything wrong with it! They drove it around, putting a much as 20 miles on it, and nothing out of the ordinary happened. They also said there was no indication on the computer that the Check engine light had come on.

Does anyone has any ideas or suggestions as to what could have been happening with the car when thes problems occured? Thanks.

tsnap · December 2004

my mechanic generously offerred to tackle a problem whereby this 1986 3.8 f.i. lesabre presented with ability to start, and died when shifted into drive. now it starts great, then in3 seconds, dies. it will run when starting fluid is sprayed into intake, dies when this is discontinued.

no codes are currently displaying.

after replacing computer, in tank fuel pump, cleaning injectors, checking fuel line pressure, it now starts fine, then dies.

normally we can figure this stuff out, but could the computer be doing this by switching from a start to run program? others have suggested an anti theft device is shutting it down, but we do not find one.

i myself did not see the injectors spray, but surely 4 would not fail at once?

help appreciated.

tom

Mr_Shiftright · December 2004

You just hear it or do you feel it? If so, where...steering wheel, seat of your pants, floorboards, etc?

Mr_Shiftright · December 2004

My theory is that the engine started to misfire, and unburned fuel overloaded your catalytic converter.

jfpad · December 2004

Thanks! After asking around amongst some people at work, one person also suggested the car wasn't firing right. Is this just the odd occurence, then--something that can happen once in a blue moon?

kratztx · December 2004

our 1997 Town and Country 105,000 miles has a problem with the parking break light stays on. I have pushed the brake on and relised it, still the light on the dash stays on. The power breaks

also seem like they have gone out. I have to push the breaks very hard to get the van to stop.

Any ideas on what is wrong?

mikefl · December 2004

Having problems that started about 4 yrs ago and getting worse. Occurs ooff and on sometimes for a few minutes sometimes for days and the it might not happen for 1day to 1 month. more frequent now.

PROBLEM: when driving at any speed the vehicle has engine surge and or jerking. At times the jeking can be pretty bad, surprized that nothing has broke because of it.when i take my foot off the gas its fine I apply gas and it might start back and continue for awhile or might be fine for awhile. i have spent quite a sum but no fix as of yet. I have replaced all 3 coil covers and the overspeed sensor.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2004

Well it shouldn't happen unless you got some bad gas or ran through a puddle or something. Sometimes bad fuel or dirt will be coughed up like a hairball, that's possible.

remi96 · December 2004

My ford windstar lx is a 2001 with 20,000 miles on it. I happen to like it and except for a few minor annoying things, electric seats -power windows-replacement of those motors: i havent had any major things YET ... however recently the emissions system light came on. I took it in and they found the fuel filter was clogged, replaced it n the light went out for a few days. its back on again and the van has taken to stalling once in awhile in the mornings. my mechanic is keeping it overnite. he said it could and he said COULD be the oxygen sensor, but needs to hook it up to the dx machine and also see what it is doing in the morning.

ANY IDEAS OR THOUGHTS

thnx

alcan · December 2004

It isn't just a parking brake light. Check the brake fluid level in the master cylinder. If low, have the brakes inspected for wear or for a hydraulic system leak.

zx2_man · December 2004

No i dont feel any vibrations i just hear it. Its really wierd.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2004

Well that's kinda hard to diagnose online but of course the first thing you do is check all moving parts, like belts and pulleys and whatever is being driven by the belts. Maybe you need to find a mechanic who is very familiar with your type of car. He/she may have heard it before.

randy5 · December 2004

I have a 84 Cadillac Fleetwood Brougham with a 4.1. I bought a windshield wiper motor and switch with delay for it. Bought another one too and the wipers still will not work. The wiper motor has 2 wires coming from it. They said the wires do not hook up any where. If anyone can help me out here or knows where i can get an original wiper motor i would appreciate it.

merwine · December 2004

My regular mechanic replaced the thermostat, flushed the heater core, blend door is fine BUT no heat. I bit the bullet and took the 2000 Plymouth Voyager to a Crysler dealer. They said I need a temperature control at the cost of $400.00 and $30.00 to install (ez job)? What the heck is a temperature control and if it is so easy to do, can I do it myself. Is a temperature control part something to be found at a slavage yard?

tac1 · December 2004

Theres smoke coming from my vents when the heat is turned on, and my defroster doesn't work. WHATS GOING ON!?

driftracer · December 2004

of the HVAC system, it controls everything, like a stereo head unit controls the sound. Yes, they do go bad, and can easily cause the problem you're describing.

Now, to save money, can your local mechanic guy get the part cheaper?

burdawg · December 2004

Sounds like the heater core is leaking, the steam is being blown out the vents and on the windshield when the defroster is turned on. You may notice the coolant level is low, but the leak is sometimes so slight (just a seep actually) that you may not. Your cooling system should be pressure tested to verify.

real123 · December 2004

Here's what my brake repair looks like for the past years:

12/04 88k

    fr. pads, new rotors, new br. hoses

6/04 82k

    fr. pads, turn rotors, new calipers

1/04 77k

    fr. pads, new rotors

8/03 71k

    fr. pads, rr. shoes

6/02 55k

    fr. pads, turn rotors

So basically, over the past 17k miles I have had pads replaced 3 times, rotors twice,and calipers and hoses.I have been going to different mechanics to see if anyone can figure out what is wrong. They guess something is causing the pads to constantly be engaged but they cannot figure out what it is really. I certaintly don't keep my foot on the brake all the time. Any ideas are appreciated as the expense is too great to keep this up.

alcan · December 2004

They might have got it the last time around. If a brake flex hose collapses internally it'll act as a one way check valve and hold pressure in the caliper after the pedal's released.

real123 · December 2004

Thanks for reply.

Is there any way this has to do with the master cylinder? That's not considered a wear part and would be covered under my extended warranty.

dawnb · December 2004

Our Ford Econoline Van ignition switch is so stiff that we can not get it to start. It is as if it is so cold that it has frozen. We removed the switch and it seems fine when off, but when we put it back on it is unbelievably hard to turn the key and feels like we will break it right off if forced. We can not turn it enough to even get the van to turn over. Please help us and email any suggestions to aurorafava@yahoo.com Thank you thank you thank you

andyman73 · December 2004

Currently have 43K and change, bought car new for wife in Sept of 99. @11,5Kmiles started to have intermittant hesitation problems during heavy accel. in 2nd gear. Once shifts into 3rd, all is well. Took 5 trips, 10k miles, and a Lemon Law threat, and car was finally fixed at dealership. Wife threw away the papers, and dealer can't find the 5th warranty service report(the one that had the fix on it, can ya believe that?) I seem to recall that it may have been the traction control that was malfunctioning. I remember thinking that it was too wierd, but problem was solved. Now, 20K miles later and problem has resurfaced, and warranty is gone. Dealer said warranty on that work is 12k-1yr. Car runs great, mileage is in low 20s for all around driving. Once I did notice that the traction control dash light was flashing during one episode, but not during all. The CEL isn't coming on either.

Basically what happens is the car stops acceleration and drops to idle, sometimes bucking and surging during the process. Bucking and surging is quite pronounced under heavy to WOT applications, and gentle under light load. Lifting off gas usually corrects the situation...until the next go round. Car is going to an independant shop that I trust. Dealership took 5 tries to fix, and now that it's my dime, no thankyou.

Anyclues...or suggestions? Anybody have this experience or heard of it? Might that traction control idea be valid? Anything you all say, is better than nothing, thanks so much.

bolivar · December 2004

Fords are known for locking up the ignition switch. What happens is the tires push back aganist the steering if you were turning the wheel when you locked the ignition, and this puts pressure on the switch. Or something like parking on a hill, the car rolls back/forward, the wheels turn, and pressure is put onto the steering and switch.

Anyway - try turning the steering wheel a small amount. It will probably not turn any in one direction, but can be turned a few degrees in the other direction. This will 'unload' the pressure the steering is putting on the switch, and allow it to be turned.

If this doesn't help, there is something else wrong in the ignition....

papahood · December 2004

I have a 96 Accord - ex. Japanese import. I have been hearing a strange noise from the front of the car. It sounds like an "overrun"- like a machine that continues to turn when it is turned off. It goes on for a few seconds and then turns off. It seems to occur when I take my foot of the accelerator pedal. The noise does not occur when the car is stationary. Please help???

bstigler1 · December 2004

i have a gas smell on my 2002 protege 5---when its cold out and i have the heater on---there is a stong gas smell inside the car----can anybody give any suggestions??----dealer has checked it out----they can't find anything wrong--

driftracer · December 2004

Andyman - you still have the Magnusson-Moss statute to fall back on since you're past the Lemon Law mileage/time stage. Contact me for more information.

ehamilto55 · December 2004

I have a Daewoo Leganza Automatic -- The problem I am having is while driving in traffic or just around town when I come to a stop sometimes the car does not want to go when I hit the accelerator. If this happens I have to put the car in low gear to pull over to the side of road and turn off car. When I turn car back on Everything is fine. This has only happened like 3 or 4 times in the past month. My Transmission has fluid and has recently been Flushed and filled. Dealership said they did not see anything wrong with transmission. Does anyone know why this would happen?

qbrozen · December 2004

is the engine actually revving up, but you get no forward motion?

Mr_Shiftright · December 2004

Well your dealer needs to check again. I'd say either a leaky cold start injector if your car has one or perhaps a faulty evaporative emissions charcoal cannister or piping to/from same, that is supposed to absorb excess gas fumes.

You don't want to mess with gas fumes. Take it from me, it takes 30 seconds for a car to burn to a crisp and you don't wanna be in it.

Have the dealer check for gas line/injector leak and also check the piping to the evaporative cannister (a far less dangerous condition)

greasemonkey · December 2004

Can anyone give me details about this model, as to how to go about checking it for preparation due it has been standing for the past 4 years. The engine hasn't been cranked during this time, the battery has since died, and needs to be replaced..



It belongs to a friend whom once had a second hand car sales lot, and this vehicle was a re-possession. Therefore no keys are available, I don't want to go out and replace all the locks as that would be very costly.



Due to this vehicle standing for such a long time, does it mean that I'll have to remove the head an all ? The engine has 112000k on it, and I'm not sure what size the engine is, all I know is it's a straight inline 4 cylinder, front wheel drive.



Any help would be appreciated.

andyman73 · December 2004

Thanks, I just did.

Mr_Shiftright · December 2004

Well you don't need keys for a diesel, so that's good, but you will need to crank that starter over, which means you'll have to buy a remote starter and a new extra strong battery for openers.

I'd hesitate to recommend removing the injectors to squirt oil in there since after all diesel fuel itself is rather oily; however, I doubt the car would start even with fresh fuel because there will probably be air in the injector lines.

Also god knows what crude you have growing in the diesel fuel tank.

So you've got a bit of a mess on your hands. Are you sure this car is even worth starting up?

If so, it'll go something like this, bare minimum.

Drain fuel tank, put in fresh fuel and fuel additive.

change ALL the fuel filters

change the engine oil and add a light oil.

Install new heavy duty battery

Hook up the remote starter.

Crank the engine over...it probably won't start but give it some 15 second bursts---not longer.

After a few 15 second bursts, stop. Loosen first injector at engine (don't take the line off, just loosen it) and crank the engine until you see diesel fluid leaking out of that one loosened injector nut. Do this for the other 3 until fuel is definitely getting all the way to the engine.

Then tighten everything up and it should fire.

Have a fire extinguisher at hand, dispose of all rotten fuel and old oil properly.

Now you have to worry about if the tires are rotted or flat-spotted, and you have to check for bad hoses and belts.

After a few hundred miles, change the engine oil and the fuel filters again.

ehamilto55 · December 2004

Yes it revs up but no forward motion.

fishing1000 · December 2004

When should the timing belt on a ford escort 1999 with automatic transmission be replaced. I have consulted the owner's manual but could not find any reference to it. Thanks.

alcan · December 2004

Inspect at 120,000 miles, replace if needed:

http://www.gates.com/downloads/download_common.cfm?file=GatesTBR.- pdf&folder=brochure

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