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Thanks for your responses! It's always good to hear about positive experiences (especially in the Problems & Solutions board)... :^) And, also, especially since the 3 is what I really want when my lease ends in July!
This being the "Problems" board, you're going to find what? Problems! If you look at the Problems board for the Accord, Civic, Camry, Corolla, you name it, there will be plenty of problems griped about. In particular, the Accord had a lot of squeaks and rattles after its 2003 redesign, and there was a some talk about starting problems with the V6 (caused by the fuel-pressure regulator).
If you base your purchasing decisions on the Problems board for any car, you won't buy any car.
good post...nobody builds a perfect car. Even the so called best manufacturers have service departments attached to their showrooms for a reason....and its not to do $14.95 oil changes.
The key is how well do they handle problems that pop-up. Mazda does a pretty good job of fixing problems. Some car companies create the illusion that their cars don't break and if they do it's the owners fault. haha
Good points, all... I have been to the other Problems boards for each of the cars I am considering. I feel like Mazda is somewhere in the middle in terms of number of bad feedback on these boards. The other cars I have thought about purchasing include the Lancer and Jetta (which have since been marked off the list) and the Corolla XRS and the Civic EX (boring, I know).
I don't mind a few problems (especially in a car's first year) as long as the manufacturer seems prepared to fix them. Some people on this board seem to feel that this is not the case with Mazda. Your thoughts?
Well, the dealer I work with seems happy to do whatever they can to fix my problems. The only problem THEY are having is a supply of parts at times (It seems like that's mostly esoteric stuff, not regular maintenance items. For instance, it took 3 weeks for them to get a new fuse box and wiper switch in for me. Not exactly things you keep around, expecting to need all the time; they had to come from Japan). That's due to the vehicle being a new model, and extremely popular, so all of the parts are being thrown into the hard-pressed assembly lines (incidentally, they're ADDING another Mazda3 line to one of their factories to increase production FURTHER).
Basically, any time they need a part, they have to get it from Japan, so it takes a bit. No one's stocking them here yet, probably because there's very little stock to be had. But you DO get a free loaner car (you're entitled to one under the Mazda warranty) so they won't leave you stranded. That's guaranteed. Those two cars at the top of your list...as I Toyota and Honda do NOT provide a loaner car as part of the warranty. I understand some dealers choose to provide something, but it's NOT always guaranteed with them. With Mazda, it's written in the warranty, and corporate policy.
Interesting info, npaladin... especially about the loaner car. I think that the Toyota dealer near me does loaners (not positive about this, though). One of the biggest differences between Mazda and Toyota/Honda is that Mazda has a 4-yr bumper to bumper and the others only have 3 years... To me, that is a HUGE selling point.
Here's an additional data point for you: we bought a Mazda3 hatchback for my wife about a month ago. We love it!
I noticed that you mentioned the Corolla and Civic as contenders in your earlier posts. Our Mazda3 replaces my wife's 2001 Civic EX (which we're trying to sell now). Simply put, there is NO comparison between the 2 cars. (I have posted in the Civic Vs Mazda3 board, but it's been closed down due to lack of activity). I've also driven a rental Corolla. It felt a little better than our Civic, but still isn't in the same league as the Mazda3.
If you do decide on a Mazda3 but are still worried about potential reliability problems, I'd recommend getting the latest build date you can find (ours is 04/04). From what I've gathered, the earlier ones tend to have a few more issues. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps. Good luck!
I think I have an AC problem too.It comes out cold but goes no where? Also brake dust and the brakes seem to rumble in the rear, getting louder? Ihave only 1220 miles.
"(incidentally, they're ADDING another Mazda3 line to one of their factories to increase production FURTHER)."
Where did you hear that? The only capacity Mazda has recently added is the re-opening of their Hiroshima/Ujina 2 plant in late May, but that's not for Mazda3 production. The Mazda3 only has one assembly plant (Hofu 1), and that plant has not added capacity in anyway except for operating as many shifts as possible (they've been running Saturday shifts over the last 6 months), but aside from running as many shifts as possible, no additional capacity has ever been added for the Mazda3.
"TOKYO -(Dow Jones)- Mazda Motor Corp. (7261.TO) said Monday it will boost its annual production of Axela midsize passenger cars by about 30% by September to meet robust overseas demand for one of its four core models....
'We're well behind in (our production of) Axelas,' Mazda President Hisakazu Imaki told reporters after a press conference for the launch of Verisa, its new compact model.
The Japanese car maker currently produces the Axela at its Hofu No. 1 plant in Yamaguchi Prefecture, western Japan, at full capacity.
It now plans to use production lines at its Hofu No. 2 plant located on the same site to boost production of the sports compact."
Thanks for the suggestion about build date, howac. That's good to know! The Civic is definitely a distant third, but they do seem to have really good lease deals, so I'm not marking it off my list entirely (yet). I drove the Corolla XRS last week and must admit, I was pretty impressed. It was a lot more fun to drive than the S or LE that I drove before. It still doesn't compare to the Mazda3's style, though (in my opinion). Although, the interior seems much improved with the 2005 XRS.
Since there's only one Mazda dealer in my city, I think I'll start with them and get internet quotes from another that's about 20 miles away. If we can't negotiate a good deal, then I'll go to the Corolla XRS. It seems like the best way of handling my (notorious) indecisiveness! Your thoughts?
Yes, Isn't that a big reason to purchase a new car, so you do not have any car problems for some time? Maybe it is just because it is first year on the 3, maybe the 6 is more reliable. I also read many posts that Honda and Toyota have problems. I guess it is like the lottery, it is a gamble to get a good car.
We just bought a 3s hatchback. Having cold start problems and read the posts. Told the dealer and they scheduled a check AFTER we go to the beach for a week and a half. Figure on at least 1,000 miles of driving, mostly hiway. Any experiences with total loss of starting due to this problem? Would hate to be stranded.
I got news from my Mazda dealer a few days ago. They said that Mazda of America is putting out a technical advisory on the A/C issue. My dealer said Mazda thinks that they put to small of A/C parts in the Mazda3. The dealer said Mazda of America is trying to see which parts need to be bigger and that Mazda of America will be fixing all those parts in 2-3 months once they see which parts need to be bigger.
That would be great news - If you ever get a TSB number please post it - I talked with my dealer 2 weeks ago and they knew nothing about any fix.
The temps in Houston are now in the mid 90's and on some days I leave the Mazda3 parked and drive my old PU truck - at least it has an ice cold AC system.
I rotated tires today - the rear wheels were hard to get off - I finally sat down on the ground in front of the wheel and kicked the crap out of the tire with both feet. After 5 or 6 - as hard as I could kick - blows the wheel came free.
I wonder if you should put some anti-seize gunk on the wheel. The dealer removed the wheels about 3,000 miles ago to try and fix the grinding rear brake issue - I would guess that if you waited 7,500 miles it would take an IED to blast them off.
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I just purchased my first new Mazda, (the 3s w/everything minus the navigation) I love my car but I do have some complaints and was wondering if anyone else felt the same way - first complaint is the headlights - I can't see more then 5 or 6 feet ahead of me at night - I really hate this. Why did I pay more for Xenon headlights if this is what I get??
Also it seems to to take awhile for the engine to turn when you turn the key. I am very concerned about this - anyone notice this on theirs?
Last is no button on the keys to open the trunk - very cheap. I can live with this but how hard can it be to have this included w/the locks/alarm??!!
Beware in CT - they try to convince you that Vin etching (the dealership tried to charge me 199) is the law (ITS NOT! OPTIONAL) And they socked me with a conveyance fee of 299. Total BS!!! Any comments??
Don't tell me you went to Colonial Mazda in Danbury. I could have warned you about them. If you're not too deep in CT I would have told you to make the trip to Middletown, NY. Good guys there.
I don't have a trunk, so the lack of a button doesn't bother me. Pusshing the unlock button twice opens all doors, including the hatch if you have the s 5 door.
I didn't get the Xenons, and I can see fine (I do most of my driving at night). They might not be leveled properly...there's a dial down by your left knee, where the dimmer is, that can adjust the level of the Xenon lights, so you can lift them up somewhat, unless it's already at max. You might want to play with that.
As to the engine...how many cranks and how many seconds is it taking for it to catch? "Awhile" can very depending on the person defining it.
Nope - Dworkin Chevrolet-Mazda in Derby. They worked with me - I really can't complain -
I got the sedan - so I have to use either the key or the latch inside the car to open the trunk.
I will check out the dimmer on the headlights - thanks -
As far as the engine - I would say like 5 seconds, and it is always right after the car has sat there (like overnight) if I start it an hour later, it starts right up. (or if I hear it trying to turn over, I stop, turn the key a second time - starts right up)
Got the following info from another forum. Hope it helps.
ENGINE HARD START / LONG CRANK Applicable Models Model Starting S/N Ending S/N 2004 MAZDA3 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Some vehicles may experience hard starting and long crank times during a cold start condition. This may be due to the fuel pump.
Check fuel hold pressure after turning engine OFF for 5 minutes or longer. (Specification is 36.2 psi or more.) If below specification, check fuel line for clogging. Replace fuel pump if needed. Refer to Workshop manual section 01-14 for further detail.
Mine cranks for 2-4 seconds. Doesn't seem to be a problem. A car's engine is naturally not going to start easily if it's cold: combustion is easier when the engine is warm. It DOES seem to crank longer than my old Chevy V6 (2 seconds, max), but considering I ended up having to dump that engine in the trunk of the car eventually, no biggie.
I am going to buy a Mazda 3s even though I think that those "cones" in front of the dashboard gauges are ugly. You think it is possible to remove those?
Well, let me put it this way. I'm renting a Malibu Classic, with a 2.2l Ecotec in it, while my Mazda3 is in the body shop. It takes about a second less to start up. But I can't tell because the engine sounds so rough and clatter-y. Given the choice, I'll take an extra second of cranking, if it means the engine doesn't sound like it's going to fall apart.
Hello. I am getting 3M protective coating applied to my new Mazda3 Sport GT and wanted to know which areas you would recommend covering. Would the back of the wheel wells or the front be more susceptible to chips?
On a normal car, the only thing between you and the instrument gauges is a piece of glass. On the Mazda 3, there are these ugly tubes, like something out of the old movie "Metropolis". That is what I meant by the "cones".
They are to shade the gauges from the sunlight.. Almost all cars have them in one form or another. I'm sure you could remove them, if you don't mind taking a chainsaw to your dash?
I think that "(3) Put on your seatbelt" from above would be your best bet. Not only is it easy, there is no need to tamper with your car's electrical system. It also offers some added safety benefit. Something to think about, maybe? ;-)
In all seriousness, I think there is a way to disable the seatbelt warning system. You might want to search around in the other Mazda3 forums to see if you can find something.
I'm looking to buy a 3i auto 4 door and was wondering if any recent purchasers have been having the rear brake dust and airbag fuse problems. I havent seen any posts recently, so maybe the newly made models have been fixed.
Today was the first really warm day of the summer here (upper 80's) so I tried out the A/C. Pretty much of a no go; I'll be talking to my dealer about this.
Hard Starting: I had it happen, but after a couple weeks it self-corrected, and I haven't experienced it again.
Headlights: I have the regular lamps and have very adequate illumination.
Trunk: If I'm inside the car, I use the lever to open it; if I'm outside, I use the key, and it pops right open. Doesn't seem like a problem to me.
Noticed some references here to the 3's reliability potentially being tied to build date as they work production kinks out. I just took delivery of my 3 a few hours ago and am wondering where I can check the build date. Can someone tell me where on the car I'd find that info?
Kim, here's the procedure. The seatbelt alarm will not come on if you follow these steps. It's easy to remember and ALWAYS WORKS! 1. Open door. 2. Put on seatbelt. 3. Start car. 4. Drive away.
npaladin2000: - regards the headlights - you were right - they were pointed upwards - visability is much better now - thanks for the tip!!
w/regards to start up - this is not a mere couple seconds... this is sitting there holding your breath wondering if its going to turn. I'll see what the dealership says about it when I take it in...
No problem. Glad to help a fellow Northeasterner Mazda3 owner. So, now how do you like the Xenons? I wanted them, but couldn't get them (needed a car; didn't have one, had to settle for without). I do most of my driving at night working overnights, which is why I wanted them. That and to blind all of the BMW owners around here.
send me an e-mail and I'll tell you about another good forum for Mazda3 owners. Can't post it here; it's against TownHall policy.
This request is for my brother who just purchased the vehicle. Believe me, I've BEGGED him to just buckle up. We know too many people who have died and it's the law in MA!
Why would anyone NOT want to wear a belt? I mean it does not take much sense to realize the advantages....Remove the seatbelt alarm is almost as silly as asking how to permanently remove the brakes cause they slow the car down too much! :P
I can understand why a person wouldn't want to wear their seat belt. Its the same reason somebody would drive with a child on their lap, put too many people in a car, not wait until the windows are clear/remove snow so you can see before driving, letting their pet stick their head out the window or sit on their lap, drive down gravel shoulder so you can pass everybody, holding a burger in one hand and your soda in the other and of course, making your dinner in a slow cooker while driving down the highway.
Seems simple to me.
<for the record, this is all sarcasm and it bugs me to no end with these types of drivers>
I quess after 14 years (owned 90 626) that MAZDA still can't get a/c right.Drove new 6 last summer it had weak a/c and a 3 this winter but sounds like same problem-shame because I really liked 3.
Concerning the starting problem: I noticed that my car seemed slow to start when I first got it, also. Recently (somewhere between 700 and 1000 miles), I was camping in the mountains where it got pretty cold at night. I had no starting problems at all.
I'm one of those people who has had the pleasure of the seatbelt helping tremendously in several accidents. So, I am sold. Even if it wrinkles my linen shirts.....but the thought of being slammed around by the airbag while being unbelted is horrifying. The guy will survive the impact and be killed or severely injured by the airbag.
Thanks for the tip on finding the build date, kyfdx. Mine's 05/04, which I'm guessing is about as recent as they get right now in the U.S. When exactly did manufacturing start?
Comments
If you base your purchasing decisions on the Problems board for any car, you won't buy any car.
The key is how well do they handle problems that pop-up. Mazda does a pretty good job of fixing problems. Some car companies create the illusion that their cars don't break and if they do it's the owners fault. haha
If that didn't scare you off...shewwww The Mazda 3 looks relatively good compared to most.
regards,
kyfdx
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I don't mind a few problems (especially in a car's first year) as long as the manufacturer seems prepared to fix them. Some people on this board seem to feel that this is not the case with Mazda. Your thoughts?
Basically, any time they need a part, they have to get it from Japan, so it takes a bit. No one's stocking them here yet, probably because there's very little stock to be had. But you DO get a free loaner car (you're entitled to one under the Mazda warranty) so they won't leave you stranded. That's guaranteed. Those two cars at the top of your list...as I Toyota and Honda do NOT provide a loaner car as part of the warranty. I understand some dealers choose to provide something, but it's NOT always guaranteed with them. With Mazda, it's written in the warranty, and corporate policy.
I noticed that you mentioned the Corolla and Civic as contenders in your earlier posts. Our Mazda3 replaces my wife's 2001 Civic EX (which we're trying to sell now). Simply put, there is NO comparison between the 2 cars. (I have posted in the Civic Vs Mazda3 board, but it's been closed down due to lack of activity). I've also driven a rental Corolla. It felt a little better than our Civic, but still isn't in the same league as the Mazda3.
If you do decide on a Mazda3 but are still worried about potential reliability problems, I'd recommend getting the latest build date you can find (ours is 04/04). From what I've gathered, the earlier ones tend to have a few more issues. Just my 2 cents. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Where did you hear that? The only capacity Mazda has recently added is the re-opening of their Hiroshima/Ujina 2 plant in late May, but that's not for Mazda3 production. The Mazda3 only has one assembly plant (Hofu 1), and that plant has not added capacity in anyway except for operating as many shifts as possible (they've been running Saturday shifts over the last 6 months), but aside from running as many shifts as possible, no additional capacity has ever been added for the Mazda3.
http://money.cnn.com/services/tickerheadlines/for5/200406280538DO- WJONESDJONLINE000220_FORTUNE5.htm
"TOKYO -(Dow Jones)- Mazda Motor Corp. (7261.TO) said Monday it will boost its annual production of Axela midsize passenger cars by about 30% by September to meet robust overseas demand for one of its four core models....
'We're well behind in (our production of) Axelas,' Mazda President Hisakazu Imaki told reporters after a press conference for the launch of Verisa, its new compact model.
The Japanese car maker currently produces the Axela at its Hofu No. 1 plant in Yamaguchi Prefecture, western Japan, at full capacity.
It now plans to use production lines at its Hofu No. 2 plant located on the same site to boost production of the sports compact."
Since there's only one Mazda dealer in my city, I think I'll start with them and get internet quotes from another that's about 20 miles away. If we can't negotiate a good deal, then I'll go to the Corolla XRS. It seems like the best way of handling my (notorious) indecisiveness!
The temps in Houston are now in the mid 90's and on some days I leave the Mazda3 parked and drive my old PU truck - at least it has an ice cold AC system.
I rotated tires today - the rear wheels were hard to get off - I finally sat down on the ground in front of the wheel and kicked the crap out of the tire with both feet. After 5 or 6 - as hard as I could kick - blows the wheel came free.
I wonder if you should put some anti-seize gunk on the wheel. The dealer removed the wheels about 3,000 miles ago to try and fix the grinding rear brake issue - I would guess that if you waited 7,500 miles it would take an IED to blast them off.
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I just purchased my first new Mazda, (the 3s w/everything minus the navigation) I love my car but I do have some complaints and was wondering if anyone else felt the same way - first complaint is the headlights - I can't see more then 5 or 6 feet ahead of me at night - I really hate this. Why did I pay more for Xenon headlights if this is what I get??
Also it seems to to take awhile for the engine to turn when you turn the key. I am very concerned about this - anyone notice this on theirs?
Last is no button on the keys to open the trunk - very cheap. I can live with this but how hard can it be to have this included w/the locks/alarm??!!
Beware in CT - they try to convince you that Vin etching (the dealership tried to charge me 199) is the law (ITS NOT! OPTIONAL) And they socked me with a conveyance fee of 299. Total BS!!! Any comments??
I don't have a trunk, so the lack of a button doesn't bother me. Pusshing the unlock button twice opens all doors, including the hatch if you have the s 5 door.
I didn't get the Xenons, and I can see fine (I do most of my driving at night). They might not be leveled properly...there's a dial down by your left knee, where the dimmer is, that can adjust the level of the Xenon lights, so you can lift them up somewhat, unless it's already at max. You might want to play with that.
As to the engine...how many cranks and how many seconds is it taking for it to catch? "Awhile" can very depending on the person defining it.
I got the sedan - so I have to use either the key or the latch inside the car to open the trunk.
I will check out the dimmer on the headlights - thanks -
As far as the engine - I would say like 5 seconds, and it is always right after the car has sat there (like overnight) if I start it an hour later, it starts right up. (or if I hear it trying to turn over, I stop, turn the key a second time - starts right up)
ENGINE HARD START / LONG CRANK
Applicable Models
Model Starting S/N Ending S/N
2004 MAZDA3 00000000 ZZZZZZZZ
Some vehicles may experience hard starting and long crank times during a cold start condition. This may be due to the fuel pump.
Check fuel hold pressure after turning engine OFF for 5 minutes or longer. (Specification is 36.2 psi or more.) If below specification, check fuel line for clogging. Replace fuel pump if needed. Refer to Workshop manual section 01-14 for further detail.
*** Published in M-tips newsletter Jan/Feb 2004.
TIA!
Kim
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2) Wire cutters.
3) Put on your seatbelt.
In all seriousness, I think there is a way to disable the seatbelt warning system. You might want to search around in the other Mazda3 forums to see if you can find something.
Regardless, try to wear your seatbelt.
Hard Starting: I had it happen, but after a couple weeks it self-corrected, and I haven't experienced it again.
Headlights: I have the regular lamps and have very adequate illumination.
Trunk: If I'm inside the car, I use the lever to open it; if I'm outside, I use the key, and it pops right open. Doesn't seem like a problem to me.
For example: 02/04
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1. Open door.
2. Put on seatbelt.
3. Start car.
4. Drive away.
w/regards to start up - this is not a mere couple seconds... this is sitting there holding your breath wondering if its going to turn. I'll see what the dealership says about it when I take it in...
send me an e-mail and I'll tell you about another good forum for Mazda3 owners. Can't post it here; it's against TownHall policy.
Thanks for the input anyway!
Kim
Seems simple to me.
<for the record, this is all sarcasm and it bugs me to no end with these types of drivers>
I don't get it.