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Comments
So now that it's getting close, aside from the husky mats(?) and line-x liner any other suggestions/tips on protective equipment to install early. Any ideas on mudflaps? Has anyone determined a need for fender flares and if so, I'd want matching color. All tips accepted.
2k F350 PSD SC LB 6spd 4WD Lariat Harvest Gold. Camper & TT pkgs, Hitch, TT mirrors, CD, Rear slider and tint $500 over invoice
Unfortunately, the 'failure cause' is usually determined by the ford dealer.
You might want to establish a relationship with your dealerships service dept and ask them..
the other thing you might need to look into is that the computer chips which run these trucks so well are also very sensitive. you might have to do some research to see if your proposed change will throw off your computer, and if so, whether you can get a modified set up to work. there are some extremely knowledgeable people who monitor this site, maybe they have some insight into this.
John
well I guess I can't be too hard on ol' Danville...wasn't that bad.....
Lewac....long time no hear....out drivin'?
If it's a grey area at all, my guess is that the Ford engineers who designed and built the truck will prevail against a mechanic. If you put any kind of a lift on a truck with bigger tires, I suspect a dealer will deny warranty work for anything suspension related. I also suspect that they can make a pretty good case for drive-lines, transfer cases, axles, bearings, tie-rods, etc.
Judging from the conversations I've read I'll be in a long line of others waiting for my new SD.
mainecowgirl: my salesman's report showed 7% for V-10's, and they are getting 40 a month. She thought what your were told sounded a little fishy. Of course Texas is full of F250's, I see 10 on the road everyday.
seriously....be carefull with a child in the middle of either front or rear seat. There is no shoulder restraint in either position. The lap belt will prevent the mid section of the child and or adult from sliding forward.....but the head will come forward violently....and if in the front seat...will hit the dash....and if in the rear will hit the center console. A baby...or car seat..can go in either position if it is one that only uses a lap belt type restraint to hold it in place. I have kids in the front pass. seat from time to time...ala the carpool....which is why I had the airbag on/off switch installed....crew cab does not come with it as standard equipment.
I am not a safety [non-permissible content removed].....but sometimes we all overlook things by accident.....
And for an improvement of minor significance...well I think it is a good improvement.....When I used to wash my 97 F150 I would dry it with a chamois....but the lower rubber moldings below the drivers window would always hold water and it would run down the side of the truck....and with a black truck...it would always leave water streaks.....but with the new 250 truck I have not had that problem. The rubber seals below the window don't seem to hold water. Albiet a small improvement....but one that was noticed by me......
Can't wait....only a couple of days till the beast roars with the new exhaust!!!!!
Is this a low, middle, or high priority? It may mean nothing just hoping since dealership says, I'm on the top of their list. I just wonder which list.
My unit (V10,CC,4x4) came in over the weekend and I inspected/drove it today. NICE! I can't pick it up until Wednesday because of a work schedule thing. It has the camper and also the towing package with hitch and wiring (and a spare-someone asked that).
That gives it a front as well as a rear torsion bar and a helper spring in the rear, too. It rode really well (it's short bed) with 265s and LS.
It rode as well (somewhat stiffer to be sure) and as comfortably as my 150, just differently. My 150 4x4 is getting pretty loose (it needs shocks). You really need to get down and look under one of these things. Man, what a horse! Way back, a previous post asked about "bouncing" in the 250 SB, but it wasn't bad. I personally think that the camper/tow packages with the spring leaf and torsion bars have given more hauling capacity but haven't hurt the ride at all. My $.02.
Waiting on Wonderful Wednesday!
Price is another matter that varies greatly with plow dealers and regions. Check around for price and try to talk to some plow people in your area in regards to which dealers you can deal with and who to stay away from.(just like superduty dealers)
One more thing and I'll shut up, when you plow with the ESOF my opinion is you should always manually lock in your hubs to reduce or remove any strain on the magnetic engagement. Some people don't think it matters but I would rather take the time and dodge the possible failure of your hub locking system from the added strain of plowing.
Truck pulled the 10K fiver for the 1st time past weekend. only thing to say... awesome!!
discovered that the truck is slightly out of alignment, though. pulls slight right with about 5 degrees of ccw set in the steering wheel. all tire pressures are laterally equal so that's not the problem... definitely alignment so in it goes on the morrow. still getting about 15 mpg with a mix of urban/suburban travel. about what we expect at this juncture.
noticed one little screw up on our config, though... should NOT have ordered the esof. here's why. slippage of clutch is almost a requirement on dry pavement when backing the fiver. what I'd like to do is place the truck in 4X4 LO (to obtain the big drop down of gear ratio). however; the front wheels cannot be free-wheeled with the esof option (correct me if I'm incorrect here). if you have the manual shifter the hubs are different. they come with a "locked" & "free" position... while the esof flavor comes with "locked" & "auto" position. with the manual 4X4 shifter we can free the front while still obtaining 4X4 on the transfer case. thus, the front hubs are free wheeling even though the rear is essentially unchanged (except for the much lower ratio... which we need to prevent friction point slippage.
the only time we're really safe to place the truck in 4X4 with the esof is when we're on soft terrain (no "hard" roads). well, quite often we need to back the fiver s-l-o-w-l-y on hard roads. the only option we have with the esof is to leave the truck in 2 wheel (or 4 wheel HI) because we cannot free wheel the hubs. oh well, live with it.
truck & coach gets the big weigh-in this week. btw, for the newer people posting, our config follows as an update: F350 drw lariat esof cc swb 4X4 psd 6 spd manual tranny / 4.1 (ls) diff. primary usage: towing 12k 5th wheel about 70% of total mileage. i'll repost the "y's" of this config over the next couple of weeks.
still no front-end leaf spring squeek.
What's the best way to get the 4X4 sticker off the back of the truck? After looking at it for a couple of weeks now, my wife and I have decided that we don't like it.
Teenagers are usually plenty big enough to sit in the front seat of a vehicle with the airbags activated.
Those kids in the 10-12yr range or those on the small side are the big gray area for airbag use.
A decent rule of thumb is age first along with size, if the munchkins can't see out of the vehicle without a booster, they should be in back or the airbag should be deactivated.
One more thing, the seats should be as far back from the dash as possible, the bag should not blow them back into the seat, they should hit the airbag in an accident, just as it is nearly fully deployed.
Again sorry for sticking my nose in, just wanted clarify a bit.
Have fun
Cowpokes
Be carefull first of all....you have to pull it off slowly. Just get a corner of up and pull it back against itself....Do not pull it off by pulling strait out away from the truck. Peel it back along the the axis of the truck....make sense??? I know what I mean to write but don't know if I get it across.....There are adhesive removers.....DON'T USE THEM....once the decal is removed use good old isopropyl alchohol to get any sticky residue off the truck. A bottle cost about 35 cents at the drug store. Just wet down the area and rub off with a towel.....It might take a couple of times to get it all off...the alchohol will clump up the sticky residue and it will come right off.
Sdman, same site as above has had a few discussions about removing the various labels on the truck (not just the 4x4 on the rear). Most of the labels can be removed as they are just stuck on (with no holes in the body).
For those of you who are still waiting on your trucks and don't want the 4x4 stickers on your truck, just mention it to the dealer and they will remove them for you free of charge when they are prepping the truck. I've had the 4x4 decal removed by the dealer on my last two trucks.
No problem BigRed....and I only payed $300...not $350 like I had posted....looked at the reciept...geez...I can't even remember what I payed for something 4 months ago....can't wait til I'm old.....only 32 now...when...and if I make it to my 60's I may not even remember my own name...ha ha
Many say it will increase as the engine gets broke in, but I've not seen any increase after 4000 miles..
I'm averaging 15.5mpg, with the same thing except I have 4x2 instead of 4x4.. Also, I usually drive at 65mph or less.
1st gear is a creeper thats really meant to get a heavy load rolling.. In everyday driving, start out in 2nd.. (Thats how they drive them off the factory floor).
Heres a sight with a 250 SC sitting with 4"
lift by Superunner or SkyJacker half way down the page. I just sold a Centurion like the one you see on the same page. It was an 88 F35O Classic which ran 35's with stock suspension.
I m looking into a 4" lift for the day I am a one of the "Haves". Ordered 1/8/00 F250,Br Red CC, 5.4, 4.10 LS, Tow Pack, Plow Pack. Also, someone on the sight had a 5" lift installed on a red 250 CC. Its a nice shot. I have it pinned up in front of me until my rig is here!
Just passed five hundred miles on the new truck, and I am loving it. Took it out today and climbed up towards Snoqualimie Pass on I-90, where the speed limit is 70 and I could stretch it's legs a bit. The power of the diesel engine is really amazing. It pulled up the steep sections without even straining, and when I asked for more speed, the truck accelerated without hesitation. I especially like the feel when you mash the pedal, the engine and turbo wind up and the transmission downshifts. Wow! Gotta make sure I don't make a habit of it :-) Gas mileage for a combination city/highway driving is around 15.5. It's been climbing since we got the truck (started at 13.5). Many here report getting around 18, and I am hopeful that as the engine continues to break in, I can get another 2-3 mpg out of it.
I have about 700 miles on my F350 sc v10 4x4 longbed getting under 10 mpg mostly city - told long ago by a salesperson with one that 9 mpg was about what to expect so I am not surprised or concerned - love this big truck!
http://www.ford-diesel.com/photos/photos28.php3