Wassbe, Must be your dealer allocation. I'm a priority 19, order placed 01/03, scheduled to be built 02/28.
So now that it's getting close, aside from the husky mats(?) and line-x liner any other suggestions/tips on protective equipment to install early. Any ideas on mudflaps? Has anyone determined a need for fender flares and if so, I'd want matching color. All tips accepted.
I recently ordered an F-250 SD V10 4X4 CC LB and would like to install a 6-inch suspension lift with 39" tires as soon as I recieve the truck. However I have yet to find out if Ford will continue to honor my drivetrain warranty once the modifications have been made. Any info on this would be appreciated..........Curious from Alaska.
From what I've heard, modifications like that won't void the entire driveline warranty.. However if a failure occurs that was caused by the modification, then it will not be covered.. Unfortunately, the 'failure cause' is usually determined by the ford dealer.
You might want to establish a relationship with your dealerships service dept and ask them..
the kind of lift you are talking about might make for a showpiece truck, but you are guaranteed to have drivetrain problems if you put any serious mileage on your rig - especially if you tow anything substantial. the other thing you might need to look into is that the computer chips which run these trucks so well are also very sensitive. you might have to do some research to see if your proposed change will throw off your computer, and if so, whether you can get a modified set up to work. there are some extremely knowledgeable people who monitor this site, maybe they have some insight into this.
As sherwoodfor mentioned you are looking for trouble with that much lift, why not stay with something more practical like about a 3in or 4in lift and you should be able to put about a 35in tire on your beast. John
I was born and raised in Danville, Illinois....what a crappy place to have a truck stuck!!! Know right where it is....my dad used to work for the railroad there..... well I guess I can't be too hard on ol' Danville...wasn't that bad..... Lewac....long time no hear....out drivin'?
I have been researching floor liners and I want to know why they don't cover the "center hump" of the front seat. I will be having one of the kids riding in the front center seat, so I want to make sure the carpets stay in good condition. I have ordered a manual transmission and manual 4wd (no ESOF). Do the two shifts cover the hump area? Will the two front mats be adequate? Has anyone bought the Husky over-the-hump floor liner for a manual transmission?
Thanks for the info. I looked into a 4" lift with the 35" tires. This would be a cheaper all around install and a more user friendly system. I ususally don't lean to the conservative side but I intend to drive this truck for several years. I hope I can find some info on the computer effects this may have. I'll contact the dealer for more insight.....
My truck has departed from Danville, hopefully to Naperville, where it will be trucked to Port Washington, Wisc. Dealer hopes to see it by this weekend. With all the money I saved waiting for this truck and having just 1 vehicle to drive the last 5 months, lucky that I do also have a Company van to get me to work & back. I'll be able to afford the gas to put into it. But then again when you spend this much on a truck, I'd go without something else, just to be able to put gas in it to drive the truck. Even if gas stayed around 2 bucks a gal. you wouldn't find me runnin a rice burner or sittin on the ground ridin in a car. Did anybody receive anything new or a 2nd duffle bag.....I hear theres more stuff coming down the pike for the Super Duty people for there long waits.
Got a build date of March 13 today. Ordered on January 10, changed to V-10 on January 18. It took 5 weeks from V-10 change to build date. 2000 f250 sd sb cc V-10 5spd. 4.30ls esop harvest gold. Was originally told 10 to 12 weeks. May make it. Nichols Ford, Fort Worth, TX.
There is a federal law (maybe Magnusson/Fergusson or something like that) that addresses warranty and aftermarket modifications. The crux of the law pretty much says that warranty work cannot be denied because of modifications unless the modification was proven to be the cause of the problem. However, it doesn't mean that you will not incur significant cost proving that the modification didn't contribute to the problem.
If it's a grey area at all, my guess is that the Ford engineers who designed and built the truck will prevail against a mechanic. If you put any kind of a lift on a truck with bigger tires, I suspect a dealer will deny warranty work for anything suspension related. I also suspect that they can make a pretty good case for drive-lines, transfer cases, axles, bearings, tie-rods, etc.
The Husky hump liner comes with directions and has an outlined area you have to cut out. I've got AT and ESOF so didn't have to do it, but it looks like a no-brainer.
I talked with the service department from which I ordered my truck and they said no problem with honoring the warranty after a suspension lift as long as it's not to radical. By radical they said 10" or above!!! They could not be accountable for driveline vibrations but the remainder of the drivetrain would be covered. Looks like I'm okay with the 4 to 6" lift. A friend of mine suggested I check with my insurance agent because he heard that the vehicle would not be covered in an accident with the suspension lift installed. Rumor for now.................
Judging from the conversations I've read I'll be in a long line of others waiting for my new SD.
I have the HUSKYS in both the front and rear of my Y2K 250 SC. I also have the center hump piece(around $40.00). I have the auto trans, with a manual 4x4 case and center console. Cutting to fit only took five minutes. The only complaint I have is that the liner does not cover the area under the gas peddle very well, especially if you have big feet! I ordered mine in grey, and they match the medium graphite interior real good. If covering for kids feet, the center hump should do just fine......
Just go off the phone with my sales person. Expect to have my baby by end of March, that would be 11 weeks from order. She told me that they were getting in around 40 f250 and up trucks a month. Also said that the superduties do not fall under the CAFE regulations for fuel economy. She also said no rear headrests in the 2001 models, too bad! Vin# begins with a 1, so I think that makes me KTP. Pam said that the only trucks she has gotten from mexico have been diesls. FYI ya'll.
mainecowgirl: my salesman's report showed 7% for V-10's, and they are getting 40 a month. She thought what your were told sounded a little fishy. Of course Texas is full of F250's, I see 10 on the road everyday.
name isn't Malcolm is it? ha ha..... seriously....be carefull with a child in the middle of either front or rear seat. There is no shoulder restraint in either position. The lap belt will prevent the mid section of the child and or adult from sliding forward.....but the head will come forward violently....and if in the front seat...will hit the dash....and if in the rear will hit the center console. A baby...or car seat..can go in either position if it is one that only uses a lap belt type restraint to hold it in place. I have kids in the front pass. seat from time to time...ala the carpool....which is why I had the airbag on/off switch installed....crew cab does not come with it as standard equipment. I am not a safety [non-permissible content removed].....but sometimes we all overlook things by accident..... And for an improvement of minor significance...well I think it is a good improvement.....When I used to wash my 97 F150 I would dry it with a chamois....but the lower rubber moldings below the drivers window would always hold water and it would run down the side of the truck....and with a black truck...it would always leave water streaks.....but with the new 250 truck I have not had that problem. The rubber seals below the window don't seem to hold water. Albiet a small improvement....but one that was noticed by me...... Can't wait....only a couple of days till the beast roars with the new exhaust!!!!!
I recieved a fax from the dealership with specs on the truck I ordered. At the top is a priority: 10. Is this a low, middle, or high priority? It may mean nothing just hoping since dealership says, I'm on the top of their list. I just wonder which list.
highest a dealer can assign. Anything less has to be done by a bigger muckety-muck (i.e., Ford rep). Just hope they have allocation and you should be in good shape.
i've asked this a couple times already, but i really could use some input about the difference in ride between a 250 and a 350. i live in a rural area, where there are no opportunities to compare them. please put in your .02. thanks
still looking for feedback on Glasstite vs Sportsman truck caps - anyone have either and can provide some rhetoric - I like both but have trouble deciding - also thinking of a plow any plow guys or girls out there - F350 4x4 sc longbed v10 electronic shift on the fly - enjoying my truck thanks for info on ARE from Wisconsin guy - I still think we had a little snow test here especially for a guy with his first truck - it is all in the eye of the beholder!
I was down your way last week on business, had to stay a few days at St. Pete Beach for some meetings. I only saw a couple of SDs while I was down that way, one 350 all black and one 350 black over gold, both by Tierra Verde. Too bad old National doesn't rent superduties. I missed my beast while I was down there. Noted however, that my rental car (buick something) didn't have much better turning radius than my 250 CC SB. Kinda sad, worse ride and not quite the view from the SD.
Couple of things.. I test drove two 350 4x4's and a couple of 250s as well. The 250s seem to sit a little lower. All were CC and V10s. The 350s seem to be a little stiffer than the 250s.
My unit (V10,CC,4x4) came in over the weekend and I inspected/drove it today. NICE! I can't pick it up until Wednesday because of a work schedule thing. It has the camper and also the towing package with hitch and wiring (and a spare-someone asked that).
That gives it a front as well as a rear torsion bar and a helper spring in the rear, too. It rode really well (it's short bed) with 265s and LS.
It rode as well (somewhat stiffer to be sure) and as comfortably as my 150, just differently. My 150 4x4 is getting pretty loose (it needs shocks). You really need to get down and look under one of these things. Man, what a horse! Way back, a previous post asked about "bouncing" in the 250 SB, but it wasn't bad. I personally think that the camper/tow packages with the spring leaf and torsion bars have given more hauling capacity but haven't hurt the ride at all. My $.02.
earlier someone was saying there was a good checklist to go through after you get your truck. Got mine 2 wks ago and would sure like to see that list. I haven't found anything wrong yet and love the truck but, I still would like to make sure I haven't missed anything.
The three most popular plows are Meyer, Western, and Boss.(In no special order) The 250/350 does nicely with a 7.5 foot plow, which stands to reason why that size is the most popular. All the above mentioned companies make bigger plows, but if your plowing mostly driveways you really don't want anything more then the 7.5 foot blade. The plows all have there good and bad points as in boss makes a blade that is hinged in the middle to form a V or a wedge. their plows also totally disconnects everything from the truck when not in use. Meyers leaves the pump and lights on the truck, it all comes down to personal taste and what type of area you plan to plow. Price is another matter that varies greatly with plow dealers and regions. Check around for price and try to talk to some plow people in your area in regards to which dealers you can deal with and who to stay away from.(just like superduty dealers) One more thing and I'll shut up, when you plow with the ESOF my opinion is you should always manually lock in your hubs to reduce or remove any strain on the magnetic engagement. Some people don't think it matters but I would rather take the time and dodge the possible failure of your hub locking system from the added strain of plowing.
finally got firewall working on the dsl connect the way I want it (see past few posts).
Truck pulled the 10K fiver for the 1st time past weekend. only thing to say... awesome!!
discovered that the truck is slightly out of alignment, though. pulls slight right with about 5 degrees of ccw set in the steering wheel. all tire pressures are laterally equal so that's not the problem... definitely alignment so in it goes on the morrow. still getting about 15 mpg with a mix of urban/suburban travel. about what we expect at this juncture.
noticed one little screw up on our config, though... should NOT have ordered the esof. here's why. slippage of clutch is almost a requirement on dry pavement when backing the fiver. what I'd like to do is place the truck in 4X4 LO (to obtain the big drop down of gear ratio). however; the front wheels cannot be free-wheeled with the esof option (correct me if I'm incorrect here). if you have the manual shifter the hubs are different. they come with a "locked" & "free" position... while the esof flavor comes with "locked" & "auto" position. with the manual 4X4 shifter we can free the front while still obtaining 4X4 on the transfer case. thus, the front hubs are free wheeling even though the rear is essentially unchanged (except for the much lower ratio... which we need to prevent friction point slippage.
the only time we're really safe to place the truck in 4X4 with the esof is when we're on soft terrain (no "hard" roads). well, quite often we need to back the fiver s-l-o-w-l-y on hard roads. the only option we have with the esof is to leave the truck in 2 wheel (or 4 wheel HI) because we cannot free wheel the hubs. oh well, live with it.
truck & coach gets the big weigh-in this week. btw, for the newer people posting, our config follows as an update: F350 drw lariat esof cc swb 4X4 psd 6 spd manual tranny / 4.1 (ls) diff. primary usage: towing 12k 5th wheel about 70% of total mileage. i'll repost the "y's" of this config over the next couple of weeks.
Thanks for the info on the Husky floor liners. Also, crazyelvis, I did not know that the crew cabs did not come with the airbag on/off switch as standard equipment. I assumed that all pickups came with the on/off switch. That is good to know. How much does it cost to install the on/off switch? I do have a couple of teenagers I can put in the front seat. Thanks for the advice.
Has anyone switched their 2" blocks for 4" blocks on their suspension? My dealer says he will do it for the cost of labor. I am interested in what people think that have had this done to their truck.
I don't like the fact that the CC does not have the airbag disable switch. What if you want to put four young kids in the truck? Switch could not cost that much. I think Ford cheaped out on this one...
What's the best way to get the 4X4 sticker off the back of the truck? After looking at it for a couple of weeks now, my wife and I have decided that we don't like it.
Teenagers are usually plenty big enough to sit in the front seat of a vehicle with the airbags activated. Those kids in the 10-12yr range or those on the small side are the big gray area for airbag use. A decent rule of thumb is age first along with size, if the munchkins can't see out of the vehicle without a booster, they should be in back or the airbag should be deactivated. One more thing, the seats should be as far back from the dash as possible, the bag should not blow them back into the seat, they should hit the airbag in an accident, just as it is nearly fully deployed.
Again sorry for sticking my nose in, just wanted clarify a bit. Have fun Cowpokes
Well I own a sign business and have to pull vinyl stickers and graphics off all the time..... Be carefull first of all....you have to pull it off slowly. Just get a corner of up and pull it back against itself....Do not pull it off by pulling strait out away from the truck. Peel it back along the the axis of the truck....make sense??? I know what I mean to write but don't know if I get it across.....There are adhesive removers.....DON'T USE THEM....once the decal is removed use good old isopropyl alchohol to get any sticky residue off the truck. A bottle cost about 35 cents at the drug store. Just wet down the area and rub off with a towel.....It might take a couple of times to get it all off...the alchohol will clump up the sticky residue and it will come right off.
Bpet, check out www.ford-diesel.com 's web page for the detailed checklist. It's been suggested you get there when the dealer opens and pack a lunch (and maybe even plan on ordering dinner). I've check out the list once (truck isn't due for another 2 weeks) and it is quite extensive.
Sdman, same site as above has had a few discussions about removing the various labels on the truck (not just the 4x4 on the rear). Most of the labels can be removed as they are just stuck on (with no holes in the body).
..as an add to what crazyelvis said, depending on what the temperature is, you might need to heat the sticker with a hair dryer a bit. You don't need much heat, just enough to make the decal flexible. I tried to peel mine off at about 40F and they were too stiff. Couple minutes with the hair dryer and they came right off.
Crazyelvis, thanks for pointing me to the air bag web site www.nhtsa.com . The information made me rethink my air bag strategy. All of my kids are older than 7 and for the few times that they may need to be in the front seat, the information indicated that if children over 7 were correctly restrained with a seat belt and at least 10 inches away from the air bag than they are better off with the air bag activated than without. Keeping the smaller kids in the back seat will be the standard operating procedure, but there are those few occasions where we have to cart around a group of similar aged children. It was good to learn how important proper seat belt usage and distance are critical factors in the use of vehicles with air bags. Thanks again for the information.
Crazyelvis, thanks for pointing me to the air bag web site www.nhtsa.com . The information made me rethink my air bag strategy. All of my kids are older than 7 and for the few times that they may need to be in the front seat, the information indicated that if children over 7 were correctly restrained with a seat belt and at least 10 inches away from the air bag than they are better off with the air bag activated than without. Keeping the smaller kids in the back seat will be the standard operating procedure, but there are those few occasions where we have to cart around a group of similar aged children. It was good to learn how important proper seat belt usage and distance are critical factors in the use of vehicles with air bags. Thanks again for the information.
Looking for some pics of 4X4 SD CC with lift mods. Please e-mail them along with tire specs to gp_smith@hotmail.com. Trying to decide on a combo that works for me.........
I've heard the hair dryer works pretty good. I have the dealership decal on my tailgate, which I have yet to take off. I plan to use the hair dryer approach as soon as the temps warm up (Spring).
For those of you who are still waiting on your trucks and don't want the 4x4 stickers on your truck, just mention it to the dealer and they will remove them for you free of charge when they are prepping the truck. I've had the 4x4 decal removed by the dealer on my last two trucks.
I forget that some of you live where it gets cold.....We here in the SUNSHINE STATE tend to always think its warm. The hair dryer will work well....I use a propane torch when I have to appy lettering around rivits on a box truck or trailer. It heats the vinyl up and makes it easier to form around the rivit. But I do not reccomend a blow torch...ha ha.... No problem BigRed....and I only payed $300...not $350 like I had posted....looked at the reciept...geez...I can't even remember what I payed for something 4 months ago....can't wait til I'm old.....only 32 now...when...and if I make it to my 60's I may not even remember my own name...ha ha
Brutus, I'd gotten the impression that the sooner you remove the labels, stickers, medals, etc the easier they come off. I'd recommend the hair dryer soon rather than wait for spring (unless spring happens this weekend
Haven't you heard the song, "When it's Spring-time in Alaska, it's forty below"? Actually, it's been a mild winter. Temps have been mid 30s for most of the month. As far as waiting too long, I suspect it is a moot point. I've had my truck for almost a year and a half (picked it up 10/9/98) and have put close to 28,000 miles on it.
Tom, we've got a Glasstite Targa on our truck. It has a lifetime warranty, came with a headliner, and (I think) looks real good. Apparently there are some who feel it's important that the topper lap over the box edge, so as to cover up the factory rail protectors. This model does not and it doesn't bother me a bit...but hey. FWIW, we paid $1095
Dogwood- Dream truck is fairly flexible. If I were to order: xlt sc psd 6spd camper tt...minor stuff -or- xlt reg cab psd 6spd... Rather have 350 but 250 doable if reg cab. Hadn't planned on psd initially so still trying to wrap my head around the extra $$$. Now SC becomes an option. Havn't seen a SC 8ft bed on the lot yet that wasn't drw. Closest trucks are a few in Braintree and Quincy. I read here Framingham had some. Jack Madden in Norwood had a bunch on the lot and another parking area half a mile down the road with maybe 50 trucks with varied setups. Lots of utility bodies but plenty without. I'd like to talk to them again but not sure of protocol. Don't want to talk to the same salesman as last time.
date of my DORA is 2/15. today, the dealer called & said they had been sent a message that my order had been "submitted to the plant". they seem to think that means that i will get a build date in the very near future, presumably for some time in march. anyone else have an idea if this might be accurate?
Your mpg sounds about right for your truck configuration.. (You forgot to mention you have the 5.4L). Many say it will increase as the engine gets broke in, but I've not seen any increase after 4000 miles.. I'm averaging 15.5mpg, with the same thing except I have 4x2 instead of 4x4.. Also, I usually drive at 65mph or less.
1st gear is a creeper thats really meant to get a heavy load rolling.. In everyday driving, start out in 2nd.. (Thats how they drive them off the factory floor).
dwucher-The fax my dealer gets that tells the region's allocation percentages is a weekly thing so it may have been 0% for V-10's just the week that I saw it. But I don't know. I have decided to take a very zen approach and figure it'll happen when it happens. I ordered January 20 so your news gives me hope, however, I am getting an auto so that may be another slow down. Congrats on your pending arrival by the way...I can hardly keep track of all the new "haves" these days!
Heres a sight with a 250 SC sitting with 4" lift by Superunner or SkyJacker half way down the page. I just sold a Centurion like the one you see on the same page. It was an 88 F35O Classic which ran 35's with stock suspension. I m looking into a 4" lift for the day I am a one of the "Haves". Ordered 1/8/00 F250,Br Red CC, 5.4, 4.10 LS, Tow Pack, Plow Pack. Also, someone on the sight had a 5" lift installed on a red 250 CC. Its a nice shot. I have it pinned up in front of me until my rig is here!
Crazyelvis: I think I understand exactly what you mean by "pull it back against itself". Also thanks to Koakey, ibsmurf and Brutus for your suggestions. I'll give it a try this weekend and let you know how it goes.
Just passed five hundred miles on the new truck, and I am loving it. Took it out today and climbed up towards Snoqualimie Pass on I-90, where the speed limit is 70 and I could stretch it's legs a bit. The power of the diesel engine is really amazing. It pulled up the steep sections without even straining, and when I asked for more speed, the truck accelerated without hesitation. I especially like the feel when you mash the pedal, the engine and turbo wind up and the transmission downshifts. Wow! Gotta make sure I don't make a habit of it :-) Gas mileage for a combination city/highway driving is around 15.5. It's been climbing since we got the truck (started at 13.5). Many here report getting around 18, and I am hopeful that as the engine continues to break in, I can get another 2-3 mpg out of it.
tmats1 - thanks for your input on Glasstite - we saw one with the sliding door that goes up on the roof - not sure if it was a Targa model - they wanted nearly 1500 for it (it was nice) - Only I would like to have a substantial roof rack for my truck if possible - the dealer said not possible with Glasstite - I looked at Sportsman and like the overall quality and thickness of the shell does anyone have one of these and could give some feedback?
I have about 700 miles on my F350 sc v10 4x4 longbed getting under 10 mpg mostly city - told long ago by a salesperson with one that 9 mpg was about what to expect so I am not surprised or concerned - love this big truck!
Am having the typical post-order second thoughts. Have talked to several people recently, one with V-10/5sp./4.30 axle who is getting 5 - 6 MPG. He had it back to the dealer and another ship and supposedly "nothing wrong". The other is getting about 10 MPG with the V-10 but it's a 99 and he doesn't remember the axle ratio and I forgot to ask if it's the auto. Those of us lucky enough to live in CA only get the 4.30 axle with the V-10/5 sp. combo which is what I ordered. I'm trying to get some hard MPG numbers from CA owners so I can crunch the numbers on V-10 vs. the PSD. I'll be running the truck about 12K - 14K per year normally loaded with about 1000# of contractor stuff and pulling a 7000# trailer about 3 weeks out of the year. Any help would be appreciated. Truck ordered 2K F350 CC, XLT, 4WD, LB, V-10, 5sp., TT, camper pack., ESOF (though wondering about this after crazyelvis' post about backing up), and misc. other options to try and run the price up even higher. Am ordering the truck from Tanya/Sarah @ Titus-Will in Tacoma WA and having it drop shipped to Elk Grove Ford in the Sacramento CA area. Very pleased with them so far.
Comments
So now that it's getting close, aside from the husky mats(?) and line-x liner any other suggestions/tips on protective equipment to install early. Any ideas on mudflaps? Has anyone determined a need for fender flares and if so, I'd want matching color. All tips accepted.
2k F350 PSD SC LB 6spd 4WD Lariat Harvest Gold. Camper & TT pkgs, Hitch, TT mirrors, CD, Rear slider and tint $500 over invoice
Unfortunately, the 'failure cause' is usually determined by the ford dealer.
You might want to establish a relationship with your dealerships service dept and ask them..
the other thing you might need to look into is that the computer chips which run these trucks so well are also very sensitive. you might have to do some research to see if your proposed change will throw off your computer, and if so, whether you can get a modified set up to work. there are some extremely knowledgeable people who monitor this site, maybe they have some insight into this.
John
well I guess I can't be too hard on ol' Danville...wasn't that bad.....
Lewac....long time no hear....out drivin'?
If it's a grey area at all, my guess is that the Ford engineers who designed and built the truck will prevail against a mechanic. If you put any kind of a lift on a truck with bigger tires, I suspect a dealer will deny warranty work for anything suspension related. I also suspect that they can make a pretty good case for drive-lines, transfer cases, axles, bearings, tie-rods, etc.
Judging from the conversations I've read I'll be in a long line of others waiting for my new SD.
mainecowgirl: my salesman's report showed 7% for V-10's, and they are getting 40 a month. She thought what your were told sounded a little fishy. Of course Texas is full of F250's, I see 10 on the road everyday.
seriously....be carefull with a child in the middle of either front or rear seat. There is no shoulder restraint in either position. The lap belt will prevent the mid section of the child and or adult from sliding forward.....but the head will come forward violently....and if in the front seat...will hit the dash....and if in the rear will hit the center console. A baby...or car seat..can go in either position if it is one that only uses a lap belt type restraint to hold it in place. I have kids in the front pass. seat from time to time...ala the carpool....which is why I had the airbag on/off switch installed....crew cab does not come with it as standard equipment.
I am not a safety [non-permissible content removed].....but sometimes we all overlook things by accident.....
And for an improvement of minor significance...well I think it is a good improvement.....When I used to wash my 97 F150 I would dry it with a chamois....but the lower rubber moldings below the drivers window would always hold water and it would run down the side of the truck....and with a black truck...it would always leave water streaks.....but with the new 250 truck I have not had that problem. The rubber seals below the window don't seem to hold water. Albiet a small improvement....but one that was noticed by me......
Can't wait....only a couple of days till the beast roars with the new exhaust!!!!!
Is this a low, middle, or high priority? It may mean nothing just hoping since dealership says, I'm on the top of their list. I just wonder which list.
My unit (V10,CC,4x4) came in over the weekend and I inspected/drove it today. NICE! I can't pick it up until Wednesday because of a work schedule thing. It has the camper and also the towing package with hitch and wiring (and a spare-someone asked that).
That gives it a front as well as a rear torsion bar and a helper spring in the rear, too. It rode really well (it's short bed) with 265s and LS.
It rode as well (somewhat stiffer to be sure) and as comfortably as my 150, just differently. My 150 4x4 is getting pretty loose (it needs shocks). You really need to get down and look under one of these things. Man, what a horse! Way back, a previous post asked about "bouncing" in the 250 SB, but it wasn't bad. I personally think that the camper/tow packages with the spring leaf and torsion bars have given more hauling capacity but haven't hurt the ride at all. My $.02.
Waiting on Wonderful Wednesday!
Price is another matter that varies greatly with plow dealers and regions. Check around for price and try to talk to some plow people in your area in regards to which dealers you can deal with and who to stay away from.(just like superduty dealers)
One more thing and I'll shut up, when you plow with the ESOF my opinion is you should always manually lock in your hubs to reduce or remove any strain on the magnetic engagement. Some people don't think it matters but I would rather take the time and dodge the possible failure of your hub locking system from the added strain of plowing.
Truck pulled the 10K fiver for the 1st time past weekend. only thing to say... awesome!!
discovered that the truck is slightly out of alignment, though. pulls slight right with about 5 degrees of ccw set in the steering wheel. all tire pressures are laterally equal so that's not the problem... definitely alignment so in it goes on the morrow. still getting about 15 mpg with a mix of urban/suburban travel. about what we expect at this juncture.
noticed one little screw up on our config, though... should NOT have ordered the esof. here's why. slippage of clutch is almost a requirement on dry pavement when backing the fiver. what I'd like to do is place the truck in 4X4 LO (to obtain the big drop down of gear ratio). however; the front wheels cannot be free-wheeled with the esof option (correct me if I'm incorrect here). if you have the manual shifter the hubs are different. they come with a "locked" & "free" position... while the esof flavor comes with "locked" & "auto" position. with the manual 4X4 shifter we can free the front while still obtaining 4X4 on the transfer case. thus, the front hubs are free wheeling even though the rear is essentially unchanged (except for the much lower ratio... which we need to prevent friction point slippage.
the only time we're really safe to place the truck in 4X4 with the esof is when we're on soft terrain (no "hard" roads). well, quite often we need to back the fiver s-l-o-w-l-y on hard roads. the only option we have with the esof is to leave the truck in 2 wheel (or 4 wheel HI) because we cannot free wheel the hubs. oh well, live with it.
truck & coach gets the big weigh-in this week. btw, for the newer people posting, our config follows as an update: F350 drw lariat esof cc swb 4X4 psd 6 spd manual tranny / 4.1 (ls) diff. primary usage: towing 12k 5th wheel about 70% of total mileage. i'll repost the "y's" of this config over the next couple of weeks.
still no front-end leaf spring squeek.
What's the best way to get the 4X4 sticker off the back of the truck? After looking at it for a couple of weeks now, my wife and I have decided that we don't like it.
Teenagers are usually plenty big enough to sit in the front seat of a vehicle with the airbags activated.
Those kids in the 10-12yr range or those on the small side are the big gray area for airbag use.
A decent rule of thumb is age first along with size, if the munchkins can't see out of the vehicle without a booster, they should be in back or the airbag should be deactivated.
One more thing, the seats should be as far back from the dash as possible, the bag should not blow them back into the seat, they should hit the airbag in an accident, just as it is nearly fully deployed.
Again sorry for sticking my nose in, just wanted clarify a bit.
Have fun
Cowpokes
Be carefull first of all....you have to pull it off slowly. Just get a corner of up and pull it back against itself....Do not pull it off by pulling strait out away from the truck. Peel it back along the the axis of the truck....make sense??? I know what I mean to write but don't know if I get it across.....There are adhesive removers.....DON'T USE THEM....once the decal is removed use good old isopropyl alchohol to get any sticky residue off the truck. A bottle cost about 35 cents at the drug store. Just wet down the area and rub off with a towel.....It might take a couple of times to get it all off...the alchohol will clump up the sticky residue and it will come right off.
Sdman, same site as above has had a few discussions about removing the various labels on the truck (not just the 4x4 on the rear). Most of the labels can be removed as they are just stuck on (with no holes in the body).
For those of you who are still waiting on your trucks and don't want the 4x4 stickers on your truck, just mention it to the dealer and they will remove them for you free of charge when they are prepping the truck. I've had the 4x4 decal removed by the dealer on my last two trucks.
No problem BigRed....and I only payed $300...not $350 like I had posted....looked at the reciept...geez...I can't even remember what I payed for something 4 months ago....can't wait til I'm old.....only 32 now...when...and if I make it to my 60's I may not even remember my own name...ha ha
Many say it will increase as the engine gets broke in, but I've not seen any increase after 4000 miles..
I'm averaging 15.5mpg, with the same thing except I have 4x2 instead of 4x4.. Also, I usually drive at 65mph or less.
1st gear is a creeper thats really meant to get a heavy load rolling.. In everyday driving, start out in 2nd.. (Thats how they drive them off the factory floor).
Heres a sight with a 250 SC sitting with 4"
lift by Superunner or SkyJacker half way down the page. I just sold a Centurion like the one you see on the same page. It was an 88 F35O Classic which ran 35's with stock suspension.
I m looking into a 4" lift for the day I am a one of the "Haves". Ordered 1/8/00 F250,Br Red CC, 5.4, 4.10 LS, Tow Pack, Plow Pack. Also, someone on the sight had a 5" lift installed on a red 250 CC. Its a nice shot. I have it pinned up in front of me until my rig is here!
Just passed five hundred miles on the new truck, and I am loving it. Took it out today and climbed up towards Snoqualimie Pass on I-90, where the speed limit is 70 and I could stretch it's legs a bit. The power of the diesel engine is really amazing. It pulled up the steep sections without even straining, and when I asked for more speed, the truck accelerated without hesitation. I especially like the feel when you mash the pedal, the engine and turbo wind up and the transmission downshifts. Wow! Gotta make sure I don't make a habit of it :-) Gas mileage for a combination city/highway driving is around 15.5. It's been climbing since we got the truck (started at 13.5). Many here report getting around 18, and I am hopeful that as the engine continues to break in, I can get another 2-3 mpg out of it.
I have about 700 miles on my F350 sc v10 4x4 longbed getting under 10 mpg mostly city - told long ago by a salesperson with one that 9 mpg was about what to expect so I am not surprised or concerned - love this big truck!
http://www.ford-diesel.com/photos/photos28.php3