By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
I agree with heyvern, the non-carpeted floor is the only way to go. I wouldn't recommend carpet to anyone that is using their truck as a truck and not a car.
The mpg is a little lower because of the duallys and the 4.30. Wouldn't trade either. My rig weighs 11,700 with the truck in the bed loaded for a trip with full tanks, so the duallys are essential. I didn't have much of a rear-end sag with the camper in the bed, but added the Ride-Rite airbags to keep it completely level.
My truck runs great in the snow in 4wd. I stick to the road. In 2wd, I could get stuck on a blade of grass. The truck weighs 7,100 pounds, and that weight is all in the front. If you tryu to push that weight with the rear tires on ice and snow, you'll fish tail and join the other ditch divers.
The duallys and the weight of the truck certainly don't make this an off-road vehicle. If there is a foot of new snow on the hwy, I can blaze through it, but if I try to go off the beaten path on in the snow, I'll get stuck. I have a friend with a cabin on a lake. The main road on the lake is an ice road that is paved and maintained like a hwy. When he got to his cabin, he jumped the berm in his 96 F-250 shortbed pulling a snowmobile trailer and cruised right to the cabin. I tried to follow him and bogged down about 20 yards off the main road. We did a lot of digging over the next 30 minutes or so as I would get free and then bog again. The duallys, the long wheel base, no weight in the back and the weight of the truck were all factors. I suspect a shortbed F-250 Superduty would perform as good as his truck did. Let's face it, the duallys are for hauling stuff, which is why I got them.
As far 5W30, we buy that in the grocery stores up here. I live in Alaska. It sounds like its different in the lower 48. We've got lots of trucks up here.
I have the original Generals on my truck and still have decent tread. I'm used to buying new tires for my trucks every 40,000 miles. I have to believe the longevity of these tires is related to moving back to Alaska in 1999. Prior to that, I was living in CA and then TX. The heat of the roads probably wears them down a lot quicker. I will probably replace the tires in the Spring even if they still have some life in them. I don't want to get a blow out with the camper in the bed.
Avg mpgs for the life of the truck. 15.5
Highest mpgs for a tank: 17.8 (on 2 occasions, mostly highway at 65mph)
Lowest mpgs for a tank: 12.5.
Average: 15.5 (mixed city/highway driving)
I am a conservative driver and rarely (if ever) go over 65mph.
If you travel at 70mph+ alot, then maybe the 3.73 would be helpful as my truck's highway mpg's drops back to the 15's..
Other than that, I think the 4.10's are a great choice..
Really a pleasure to drive. I am interested in installing color matching fender flares like those
on the F150. Does anyone have info on after market add-on? Thanks!!
The 5.4L is a good engine and pulls my F250 SC 4x2 5sp 4.10LS truck around just fine..
Are you getting 4x4 or 4x2.. I'm not sure how much that question really matters, because I think the 4.10 rear might be as good of a choice as the 3.73. The MPG's really are only about 1mpg difference. You can make up that much just by good driving style..
If you want to 'maximize' MPG's then get the 5sp..
Frankno1:
I've heard of some rare occasions where folks have had problems with the 4r100 in the 99 models.. Mostly it had to do with heat buildup when going in reverse with a big load..
As far as automatic vs 5sp, it really boils down to personal preference.. I prefer the feel and control that the 5sp gives me. Both are excellent tranny's.. Also remember its the same tranny thats able to handle the huge amount of torque the PSD puts out, so I think you get an extra safety margin with the gasser that puts out a little less torque.
On the web site www.blueovalnews.com are some very interesting stories about how Ford tried to save $4.00 per transmission and use a cheaper diode in the electronics and when the engine gets above 4600rpm and someone lets off and then shoves the accelerator to the floor the transmission blows up or at least loses second gear. I understand they recalled 50,000 4R100's to rebuild. Another article is how Ford is trying to get out of the transmission business.
That is why I am thinking about a manual transmission in any Ford I buy, its not a personal preference to me as much as a dependability factor. My wife and I are going to the Northwest Territories this year and I sure don't want to have transmission problems. Sorry for going on so long. Frankno1
I'm getting the 4x4 as I live in the high desert and we get lots of snow and black ice during the winter. I've always been told that you get better mileage with an automatic transmission. I also believe that they have a higher towing capacity? Is the difference in the mileage between auto and manual significant?
Frankno1,
Do you know what model years were the subject of the transmission recall? I will probably be looking to buy a used '99 or '00 and I want to make sure that issue has been resolved on whatever vehicle I end up with. Some of the areas that I spend time in are about as remote as the Northwest Territories and I sure don't want to have to pack my way out!
First, manual tranny's will almost always give better MPG's that automatic tranny's. In the SuperDuty, its definately the case.. Reasons for this:
- no power loss through the torque converter. (yes, im aware that the 4r100 has a torqe convert lock, but it's not always engauged)
- no power loss through the various 'bands' , and pushing tranny fluid through small ports.
I've been monitoring these boards (concerning SuperDuty trucks) for a long time (well over a year), comparing various engines and trannys. It does appear the manual tranny is good for around 1mpg better, possibly 2 in some situations.. They are most equal when on the highway.
According to the SuperDuty towing spec's, the manual tranny actually has a higher tow rating by about 300 lbs (probably the difference in weight between the trannys).
Also, on the recall, many of the affected tranny's weren't even in vehicles yet, and it was an issue where Ford clearly understood the problem and when they introduced the problem..
All of that being said, I still prefer manual tranny's. I think there's just less things to go wrong.
In addition to the benefits that you've described, I've always thought that a manual transmission is much safer in snow/ice conditions as you have a lot more control of the gear changes and downhill speed governing. It can be a bit unnerving to downshift the automatic in my wife's SUV when we are coming home from the mountains in mid winter as the first step is a big one.
Now the trick is to find a used XLT SD CC with a 5.4 and a stick. They seem to be a bit hard to come by here in diesel country.
Thanks again!
Drive a few trucks that are as close to the configuration that your wanting to get a little bit of the feel.. I had to buy my truck without ever actually driving one with the 5.4L manual tranny..
I drove:
PSD w/6sp 3.73
V10 auto (3.73)
V10 manual (I forget which rear end it had)
5.4L auto (4.10) (felt mushy with the automatic tranny, the 5sp feels more snappy)
So I was nervous ordering it.. Every time I drive my truck, I think, 'man, I chose well'.
00' F250 xlt SC 5.4L 5sp 4.10LS 4x2, oxford white, grey interior, 60/40/60 bench, cab steps, normal power mirrors (not TT power), am/fm/cd, tow package, LT265 75R16 tires.
Remember that Ford has the #1 vehicle in the USA (F-150). Your right, Quality does count, and Ford quality is every bit as good as the Toyota.. (Toyota's god-like quality references are greatly exaggerated..)
I've test driven a '00 SD CC 5.4L automatic with an unknown rear end. It had a lot more power than I expected, especially after driving a similarly equipped diesel and V10. I am definitely not a diesel guy and I just don't have any need for the power of the V10. I haven't been paying too much attention to the specifics of what rear end was installed on the trucks, but I'll make a point of it now.
The only problem with the 5.4 that I drove was that it had been abused by whoever had owned it previously. I've noticed that a lot of the used trucks at dealerships in the Northwest have come from Canada and they are trashed. Most look like they have been short term leases to coastal British Columbian logging companies. Not many uses are harder on vehicles. I could see cork (spiked logging boots) marks on the accelerator and brake peddles and there was mud tucked up into every nook and cranny of the undercarriage. This one sounded like the windshield was going to blow out while I was driving it. I'm going to test drive a couple of SD ECs tomorrow that have different configurations of the 5.4 to get a feel for it. I've already spoken with a couple of dealers and two have offered to sell me one for $500 over invoice since I'm willing to wait. Do they offer the XLT without the carpeting?
The only drawback of the vinyl is that it can get kind of slick when wet, but it sure is a lot easier to clean up. I guess the only options I really want from the XLT are the power package (locks/windows) and A/C, so maybe I should price those out separately instead. What else does the XLT package include?
PS: Thanks for the heads up on the Transmission problem.
The truck only had 12 miles on it and was probably on the lot for a few months. Is this normal?
Or do I need some kind of additional undercoating or is this defective rustproofing?
I saw on another board, the way Ford tests the limited slip rear end:
- put one wheel on a slippery surface (mud or ice) and the other on dry pavement. Slowly apply power. If the truck should move forward slightly.. It may be necessary to apply the emergency brake in order to energize the limited slip.
This last weekend, I almost got stuck in muddy field (i have a 4x2). I got out to look at the rear wheels, and there was mud caked in the tread of both rears, although it looked like one was doing most of the spinning, but the other did some work..
I have the whimpy A/S (all season) instead of the A/T (all terrain) tires, otherwise, I bet wouldn't have had any problems at all.
BTW: to get out, I just had 2 guys sit on the tailgate and I pulled right out..
I didn't do the brake thing (I have a manual tranny which makes it a bit harder)
My old '98 F-150 will reach 3/4 of a tank at about 75 miles.
Just wondering if anyone else has seen this.
I will be ordering a 2001 SD 250SC SB 4x4 as soon as I decide which engine to get.
This will be my daily driver for about a 45 mile round trip drive to work with some
ocassional offroading. I plan to get it lifted with 33's as soon as I get it. I am leaning
towards the V10 because I like it's "off the line" power more than the PS. I know that the mileage will be less but $4000 buys alot of gas.
Will the 3.73 gears be adequate for 33 inch tires or should I get the 4.30s?
Anyone with a PSD with a similiar combo please feel free to respond with your experiences
and observations.
For those wondering, lifted trucks have always been my preference. This new one will replace
my '92 GMC 1/2ton 350/NV4500 4x4 with 33's and 194,000 miles. I have been researching
this for about 3 weeks and this forum has been very helpful! Thanks in advance to all who reply!
Ford did send me an -email asking me if I received a reply from the dealerships. In every case I have answered their survey no.
Several discussions that I have seen posted on the Internet talk about steering problems associated with the 250HD. Recently, I noticed that several (not all) trucks on dealer lots have a steering damper (stabilizer) positioned on the right side ahead of the front axle. Looking at the descriptions of 250HD option packages, I see that steering dampers are included in the heavy service suspension package and the snow plow package. None of the trucks I have seen with the stabilizers have either one of these packages listed on their stickers. There doesn't seem to be any consistency between which trucks have them and which trucks don't (based on the window sticker and listed options).
Is what I'm looking at in front of the axle really a steering stabilizer? If so, has Ford started adding these to correct the steering problems? I would greatly appreciate hearing from someone who can help me with some information.
If you tow a lot, or are up at higher altitudes the diesel may be right for you. I usually don't put my foot into it too hard, so I usually get 12-13 mpg in mixed city/highway driving, with trailer it drops down to about 9-10 mpg. Of course my rig weighs about 8500 lbs, and I didn't buy it for good gas mileage. Friend of mine with same F-350 but with diesel, pulls a bigger rig and routinely gets 15-16 mpg, in summer 18 or 19. The extra torque helps, he can beat me up big hills while towing, and his truck stays in overdrive while mine shifts down a gear to climb the hill. Empty, I'm several seconds faster to highway speed than he is.
I looked at a diesel, but my wife vetoed it because of the fuel odor and exhaust odor The PSD is pretty quiet as diesels go, but it's still a lot louder than my V10. Of course my V10 has the exhaust flutter at around 2200 rpm, which sort makes it sound like a diesel too (but that's another story).
Also I couldn't justify the extra $3700 cost of diesel engine since I only tow 3 or 4,000 miles a year. From what I've heard, if you drive more 20K miles per year, then diesel economy will pay for itself in about 5 years. (Of course I see diesel fuel is more expensive than unleaded in my area right now.)
Well cared for, a SD will probably give well over >250,000 miles of service before needing a rebuild, I don't think my gasser will last as long, even though I baby it. Diesel has higher maintenance costs - oil changes are ~15 quarts, and I think the oil filter costs about $25. You have to put additives in your coolant to prevent cavitation, so you don't develop hot spots on the diesel's cylinder walls. Also you have be aware of where you buy your fuel from - diesel fuel needs to have a different winter formulation otherwise it starts to congeal in cold weather. If your fuel gels, you're pretty much stuck until it warms up. Also you need a block heater for easier starting in winter, and you've always got to wait about 20-30 seconds for those glow plugs to heat up before you can start in the morning. My buddy also carries a spare fuel filter for the times he gets a load of bad/stale diesel fuel. He doesn't mind the extra maintenance and does it all himself. It's all in what you get used to. I've driven his rig,, and its got a different personality than mine, slower off the line but you can feel the power waiting there. Frankly waiting for glow plugs makes me nuts, as I just want to turn the key and go.
I guess it comes down to personal preference. I love the V10, my truck is a huge beast with crew cab/long bed, but it surprises the heck out of folks when I mash the throttle on the V10 and leave them in the dust. My buddy loves his oil burner, he's always towing for his business or for fun and he says he'll never go back to a gasser. He gets off on diesel fumes I think, but he's not going to beat anybody the next traffic light.
Just a thought, I think your 8700 lb 5er may be a little heavy for an F-250, combined weight of truck and trailer may exceed the GVCWR that Ford specs. Once you load up trailer and truck it may put you over legal limit. F-250 will still be able to pull it, but panic stops could be kinda hairy. For about $500 more F-350 give you a lot more margin. Also a diesel weighs about 400 lbs more than V10, so it lowers capacity still more.
Sorry for the verbosity, I started writing and it all came out.
Flutter is a resonance that occurs in the y-pipe that comes off the exhaust manifold of the V10s. It's supposedly not a "real" problem, it supposedly doesn't cause any engine damage, loss of mileage or power. It's just totally f'***'in annoying. Basically, the exhaust pulses of the 10 cyclinders sets up some sort of standing wave vibration within this y-pipe from about 2200 thru 2600 - 3000 rpms depending on the truck. Mine sounds sorta like a diesel on some days when it's in this RPM range. Evidently, all V10s have it some extent but it really varies between vehicles, or the owners don't notice or don't care. It didn't really become prevalent on my truck until I had about 6k on it. It faintly showed up at first and got louder over the next 5K miles. Now it's there almost all the time. I basically go out of my way now to move through that rpm range quick enough so I don't have to hear it for very long, and I'll change gears to avoid it. It's strictly rpm related, doesn't matter what gear I'm in, when I am at that engine speed this resonance occurs. It's not noticeable for first 10 or 15 minutes of driving until engine is good and warmed up. Then, it gets even louder if I really put my foot into and accelerate hard.
My dealer and Ford know all about it. They could hear it and confirmed something wasn't right, and talked to Ford Regional Rep before they found out it was in the exhaust. Ford is trying various solution to alleviate the problem. They came out with a new y-pipe of on the 2001's that's evidently quieter than my 2000. They also came out with a retrofit part for older trucks, but it doesn't work well: it quiets it to a certain extent but doesn't totally alleviate it Supposedly in a few months, they'll have another y-pipe to try.
Only way to totally kill it, is to do what a friend of mine did - Headers. He put on a set of Borla Headers, and totally changed his exhaust system (with exception of the catalyst, I think). Different exhaust pipe construction, diameter evidently damps the resonance out and you don't hear it any more. His truck was much noisier than mine, and he was ready to start a Lemon Law suit, but decided to try his own fix instead, and now you don't hear any flutter at all.
FOr a lot more info go over to the Gasoline Engine forum on http://www.ford-diesel.com. Look at the posts for the past 90 days or so, there were several threads there on Flutter.
I love my F-350, and the V-10, but this one flaw makes me nuts. Unfortunately, I don't want to have to spend another grand on headers to replace a design shortcoming on a $35,000 Truck and I'm fervently hoping that Ford comes out with a viable fix soon. Hope this helps.
Thanks for the exhaust flutter info. It's good to know the engine isn't coming apart at least. Did your friend gain a significant amount of power with his Borla conversion? I pull a 12,000# 5th wheel with mine and it does a fine job, but I guess you can't have too much torque. Thanks again. Acmurf
Also, there have been several 5.4L trucks also diag'd with 'flutter' as well which is noticable at almost all RPM ranges when accelerating..