I pick option C. No way you should put $4k into it, but you shouldn't junk it, either. If the car is nice otherwise, put it up for sale and a mechanically inclined person will give you more for it than a junkyard.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
any suggestions to find someone reliable in the bay area to do this job, i polled a few shops they would like to work with a new head rather than recondition the old one.
I think a new head is like $700 bucks but then you have to do a valve job--that's just a bare head. But still, if you can get in under $2K, that's cheaper than buying some crapola used car for $2K.
This presumes your car is otherwise in pretty nice shape. If your crate also needs tires, a windshield, bodywork, paint, etc.---then nah, let 'er go.
Couldn't get these guys to respond... any other places that you recommend Mr.Shiftright... i thought this was going to be easy to find someone outside to fix the car apparently there are challenges, i was thinking should i try diy buy two heads and gasket and replace it without bringing the engine down... any thoughts...
Try Askim's Auto Works in San Rafael. Jim Askim is an ace of a guy--he usually works on Subarus but will often take other makes if his work load isn't too heavy. Very trustworthy man. He pulled and overhauled the engine on my former car--blown head gaskets.
Hello, I own a 93 chrysler lebaron with 31000 miles. However one day it overheated and will no longer start. The waterpump also seems to be bad as all of the car's antifreeze is leaking in the location of the waterpump. I took the car to the dealer and a chain repair place and the only thing they will tell me is that the motor has no compression. Both places state that if the motor is bad I will have to pay them $5-8 thousand dollars to replace the motor with a remanufactured one. Both places refuse to prove a firm estimate on the motor replacement as they both say that the final cost will be based on how many items or other parts that they break during the installation. The cheapest junk yard motor I could find will cost $2000 to have install. The local junkyards are also unwilling to give any amount of money or even accept the car. So what should I do with this car.
Does the vehicle have any sentimental value? If not from a economics point of view to invest up to $8K in a 19 year old vehicle probably wouldn't be your best option. That is of course if you can find someone to do it for $8K. No one can give you a firm amount due to the risks involved on this type of installation. If you could get any referrals from friends or relatives on an independent mechanic shop in your area you could try calling them for a better or firm price on a remove and replacement of a motor.
If it were me I'd junk the car and use the $8K I would've spent on repairing it on a new or newer used vehicle, course YMMV.
My grandfather has a '97 Lexus ES300 with 72,000 miles on it. It needs $1600 worth of work done to it. After the work done, the car will drive well. He has been the only owner and it has a clean history. He would sell it to me and I would put in the money for the repairs. I don't know what to do. Is it worth it to put more money into this car than it is worth?
And who quoted the $1600---the shop or is this grandpa's best guess?
You should figure that the actual market value for this car is about $4000, so he'd have to sell it to you for less than $2400 to make this worthwhile. A "family price" might be more like $1500.
All this presumes the car is basically clean with no body damage, rust or ripped interior or broken glass, etc.
Thank you very much for replying, Shiftright. I would say the car is in Average condition and according to Edmund's the TMV would be $2,732 for a trade in.
I brought it into the dealer and the mechanic for quotes. I'm not even going to bother mentioning the ridiculous quote from the dealer. The mechanic quoted $1,642 in repairs. It needs a new timing belt, catalytic converter, engine mount torn, hood support pads, and a new seatbelt buckle. It might also need sway bar bushings and possibly have an engine leak (dealer saw it, mechanic didn't). The dealer said I also need a power steering flush.
There is a big scratch on the front bumper, peeling paint on the back bumper and the paint is off by the side mirrors. The driver seat has a rip in it and the back seat is scuffed. Otherwise, the mechanic and dealer both thought the car was in good condition to drive.
I'm unsure what to do. It wouldn't be worth it to buy the car for $3,000+ repairs. But, I also don't have the money to get something better. With $3,000, possibly $4,000 for a car, I would end up with a clunker no matter what. On the other hand, gas is a lot more expensive on a Lexus.
Well I don't know...for 72,000, it certainly didn't have the best of care. I guess it all depends on what you have to pay for it, Quite honestly, from what you describe, unless you got the car dirt cheap I think you'd be better off shopping for one in nicer condition---you can always bring the car you're thinking of buying to the mechanic for a pre-purchase inspection---that's money well spent.
But again, a timing belt and catalytic converted at 72,000 miles seems unusual to me.
From my limited point of view, I'm not liking this deal very much at the moment.
For free? So only $1600 in the end for a Lexus with 72k miles? absolutely! I think that's a steal if the mechanic feels its a good car other than the needed repairs.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
IMM, that would depend on how they determined that the cat was bad. If was just throwing the "catalytic converter efficiency low", or whatever that OBD code is (P0420?), could just be the downstream O2 sensor. Of course, that would depend on whether a '96 Lexus had an OBD2 system in it in the first place.
No. I wouldn't want to be in that car for $4600. It has had a very rough life. If I could be certain it would be reliable for me after the $1650 in repairs, I'd be a buyer at no more than $1500 for the car as is.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks for the reply. I just don't think I would like spending anymore money on it than it's worth, ($2,700) but financially I don't think I have a choice.
It seems to me that a Lexus E300 (which is basically a fancy Camry V6) with 72,000 should have a lot of life left ifit's been properly maintained mechanically and driven with reasonable care, once you make the required repairs. Do you know how it's been maintained and driven? I'd want to know why it needs a catalytic converter.
Have your ever tried Lucas Stop Leaks? Just change the oil and add a quart into your crankcase. I hear that it is very effective in curing this headache.
It needs a new timing belt, catalytic converter, engine mount torn, hood support pads, and a new seatbelt buckle. It might also need sway bar bushings and possibly have an engine leak (dealer saw it, mechanic didn't). The dealer said I also need a power steering flush.
The mechanic said it was the catalytic converter that turned on the engine light. I guess I can call him and ask why. I really don't know anything about cars. I had thought my Grandfather was maintaining it, but I don't think he new it needed any problems. He didn't drive it to often.
Well the trouble code for the catalytic would show up even with a simple misfire. I certainly wouldn't replace it without a good deal of further testing, based merely on an engine light.
In the end I would be buying the car for $1500 ($1,000 + $500 for freight). Repairs Needed are: Left Inner Tire Rod, Alignment, Sway Bar Bushings, Seat belt Buckle, Engine Mount, Timing Belt, Hood Support Rods, Power Steering Flush, Valve Cover Gasket, and Catalytic Converter. The total Repair Costs would be $2,223. Without getting the Steering Flush, Valve Cover and Catalytic Converter (not serious) would be $1,148.
Now that I have all the estimates, I would greatly appreciate opinions on whether it is worth it to put all the money into car. Thanks in advance!!
It's a '97 Lexus ES300 with 72,000 miles, in average condition. Edmunds.com Appraises trade in value as $2,636 and private party $3,095
Yeah, that's okay, but I'd get second opinions on some of these repairs---things like hood struts, you can do that yourself for cheap, and the sway bar bushings sounds to be of dubious necessity.
well, hell, you can easily replace the swaybar endlinks, too. I find it hard to believe it would have anything to do with inspection, but they are easy and cheap.
Valve cover gasket is an easy job, too.
The catalytic is definitely the most expensive. You might call around for other estimates on that from muffler shops. Another place might weld in a universal replacement for you that would be significantly cheaper.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The mechanic said it's not the links that need replacing it's the the actual bar bushings. I'm a girl and don't know too much about cars. So unless it's really easy to fix myself, I would probably need to take it in. I will definitely call other muffler shops for estimates.
you might browse YouTube...sometimes there are very good videos on various car repair subjects. They might not be completely specific to your make and model, but a sway bar is a sway bar is a sway bar.
If the end links are shot, you get a banging noise from the suspension and it feels like something is loose in the front. One of my kids had had this happen on 2 different cars they have driven. After it was fixed, I knew what to look for and could see they were bent on vehicle #2.
2024 Ford F-150 STX, 2023 Ford Explorer ST, 91 Mustang GT vert
The mechanic said it's not the links that need replacing it's the the actual bar bushings.
Ya know, I thought that's what you were saying, but that's so odd I assumed you really meant the endlinks, which commonly fail.
In any case, the bushings are easy, too. 2 brackets with 2 bolts each and the new bushings will be split, so you lube them up and slip them over the bar and bolt the brackets back on.
Here is a writeup with pics. OF course, if you don't have any tools, its probably not cost effective to do yourself.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Comments
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
# replace cylinder head (leaking combustion at spark plug hole bank 2)
# replace valve cover gasket - i guess this is default when you replace a head
Posted image of the top
link title
I think a new head is like $700 bucks but then you have to do a valve job--that's just a bare head. But still, if you can get in under $2K, that's cheaper than buying some crapola used car for $2K.
This presumes your car is otherwise in pretty nice shape. If your crate also needs tires, a windshield, bodywork, paint, etc.---then nah, let 'er go.
If it were me I'd junk the car and use the $8K I would've spent on repairing it on a new or newer used vehicle, course YMMV.
And who quoted the $1600---the shop or is this grandpa's best guess?
You should figure that the actual market value for this car is about $4000, so he'd have to sell it to you for less than $2400 to make this worthwhile. A "family price" might be more like $1500.
All this presumes the car is basically clean with no body damage, rust or ripped interior or broken glass, etc.
I brought it into the dealer and the mechanic for quotes. I'm not even going to bother mentioning the ridiculous quote from the dealer. The mechanic quoted $1,642 in repairs. It needs a new timing belt, catalytic converter, engine mount torn, hood support pads, and a new seatbelt buckle. It might also need sway bar bushings and possibly have an engine leak (dealer saw it, mechanic didn't). The dealer said I also need a power steering flush.
There is a big scratch on the front bumper, peeling paint on the back bumper and the paint is off by the side mirrors. The driver seat has a rip in it and the back seat is scuffed. Otherwise, the mechanic and dealer both thought the car was in good condition to drive.
I'm unsure what to do. It wouldn't be worth it to buy the car for $3,000+ repairs. But, I also don't have the money to get something better. With $3,000, possibly $4,000 for a car, I would end up with a clunker no matter what. On the other hand, gas is a lot more expensive on a Lexus.
But again, a timing belt and catalytic converted at 72,000 miles seems unusual to me.
From my limited point of view, I'm not liking this deal very much at the moment.
Thanks.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
T-belt is definitely appropriate. It is rubber and should have been changed long ago just based on age. It is a ticking bomb at the moment.
Cat is a bit odd, though, I agree. Wonder if that's for real.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
IMM, that would depend on how they determined that the cat was bad. If was just throwing the "catalytic converter efficiency low", or whatever that OBD code is (P0420?), could just be the downstream O2 sensor. Of course, that would depend on whether a '96 Lexus had an OBD2 system in it in the first place.
Maybe dgal can get some answers over there.
Also, a link at the top right hand of the forum page..
Edmunds Price Checker
Edmunds Lease Calculator
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'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Good Luck.
The mechanic said it was the catalytic converter that turned on the engine light. I guess I can call him and ask why. I really don't know anything about cars. I had thought my Grandfather was maintaining it, but I don't think he new it needed any problems. He didn't drive it to often.
The total Repair Costs would be $2,223. Without getting the Steering Flush, Valve Cover and Catalytic Converter (not serious) would be $1,148.
Now that I have all the estimates, I would greatly appreciate opinions on whether it is worth it to put all the money into car. Thanks in advance!!
It's a '97 Lexus ES300 with 72,000 miles, in average condition.
Edmunds.com Appraises trade in value as $2,636 and private party $3,095
Valve cover gasket is an easy job, too.
The catalytic is definitely the most expensive. You might call around for other estimates on that from muffler shops. Another place might weld in a universal replacement for you that would be significantly cheaper.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I find this a bit hard to believe...you could take that bar and throw it away and the car would drive fine.
One of my kids had had this happen on 2 different cars they have driven.
After it was fixed, I knew what to look for and could see they were bent on vehicle #2.
Ya know, I thought that's what you were saying, but that's so odd I assumed you really meant the endlinks, which commonly fail.
In any case, the bushings are easy, too. 2 brackets with 2 bolts each and the new bushings will be split, so you lube them up and slip them over the bar and bolt the brackets back on.
Here is a writeup with pics. OF course, if you don't have any tools, its probably not cost effective to do yourself.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S