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Comments
An expensive, but crucial fix.
It really could be many things, we could all randomly pick a different part that might sound like an airplane. Just need a mechanic to listen/drive it.
As soon as i took it home i could hear a whistling noise when i turn the climate control on.
If i open a window just a little the sound goes away.
It looks to me that its negative pressure created by the climate control and when air is entering
the cabin it is whistling somewhere.
Any help would be great since the dealer where i bought it already had the car for 3 different occasions and still didn't fix it.
I forgot to mention that I also use about 1/2 gallon of antifreeze every 1,000 miles or so. My mechanic has assured me that my water pump seal is leaking as that is very common on this engine, but there is absolutely no trace of leakage. There is absolutely no residue around or under the water pump indicating the antifreeze evaporates without being detected. I thought that all of these problems may indicate a blown head gasket or worse.
Any ideas?
I have a 2004 Tahoe which recently started making a vibrating sound while idling. It is especially loud when I am backing up and apply the break. Any thoughts?
It was the Hub bearing on my front driver side. Thanks to all of your thoughts on the subject. I know this one was a bit hard by description only. I finally can hear myself think again....
Perhaps you had a bad sensor or loss of hydraulic pressure boosting. I'd certainly read the trouble codes for further diagnosis.
Recently, while in a parking lot, another Tahoe pulled in the vicinity and we heard the exact same noise. I should have went to the owner and asked about it. That I heard the exact same noise from another Tahoe eases my mind on it a bit, but not my gf. It is, after all, her truck.
It is only reproducible some of the time. Very slow speeds, barely accelerating, or when coming to a stop, but is NOT brake related. It is heard when the accelerator is pressed lightly. This would make it seem some kind of metallic bracket picking up vibration underneath. It is a very distinct sound, but certainly hard to describe in type-written form!
Have you had anyone look at the vehicle to find out what the sound is? Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
If the noise is a concern you want to get checked I can set up a case for you with an agent. They will require you to take it into the dealership to be diagnosed. In order to set this up I will need you to email me your contact information, VIN, current mileage, dealership and best time to contact you. You can get my email by clicking on gmcustsvc. Thank you,
Mariah GM Customer Service
We took it to a Chev. dealer for diagnosis and were told it was the rear brakes and proceeded with replacement of the pads, rotors, and parking brake shoes etc. The sound did not go away and before we could return it to the dealer, the transmission went out. We just picked up our Tahoe yesterday from an independent repair shop (I do not trust the service at the Chevy dealer), running great - except . . . we still hear the intermittent metallic vibration. Needless to say, $$$$ later we're very frustrated. We now know the metallic vibration noise is NOT the brakes nor the transmission. Any clues from your experience??
"Recommendation/Instructions:
If the published misfire diagnostic does not isolate the cause, perform the following suggestions as necessary:
Perform a fuel injector balance test for all 8 cylinders. If a fuel injector concern exists, it is possible to misfuel an entire bank of the engine, causing multiple cylinders on the same bank to misfire even though the root cause is a single fuel injector.
Inspect O2 sensor connections on the misfiring bank for corrosion or water intrusion. If water intrusion is found on the right bank, it may be due to the AC Evaporator Condensation dripping onto the O2 sensor harness. If this condition is found, reposition and shield the harness to prevent a repeat concern and repair the connections.
Check for excessive exhaust backpressure using the restricted exhaust diagnosis.
Swap the Position 1 O2 sensors side to side to see if the misfires move to the other bank of the engine. If so, replace the O2 sensor.
Please follow this diagnosis process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed."
Just because something was replaced doesn't mean it's any good---this assumption has tripped me up before. I don't even presume something new out of the box is automatically "good" and can be discounted.
Hard problems need a strict attitude I think--that is, very methodical, even tedious, if you will.
Is this a factory install, or aftermarket?
And/or....was anyone messing with the roof rack?
Also, if there is a roof rack, you want to suspect leaking at the mounting anchors.