Hyundai Azera 2006

mechanic80 · April 2006

I'm betting Photoshop................Yes?

jim101 · April 2006

Here it is, here's what I can share.

It's not photo shop, it's not cut and paste or anything like that, it's 'REAL'. What you see is what you get, color matched to your vehicle color for approx. $100 US. Order comes from Korea I think?

Go to dreamka4u.com click through till you find contact us and end up at the e-mail sight. Make inquire about Azera grill, they will reply.

Ours is already on order.

allmet33 · April 2006

I was looking around (as I usually do) for car audio equipment and I came across this gem: Pontus by Hyundai AutoNet Model # PD-765D for only $755.78 (best price I could find)

http://www.parkaveelectronics.com/product.asp?itemid=PONPD765D

However, I'm sort of eyeing this Panasonic CQ-VD65030 for only $650

Looks like it should fit in the dash of the Azera for those wishing for more.

ratledge · April 2006

A lot of that stuff is available from Mobis (Hyundai's own "after market" company) at www.mobis.co.kr - but once you select "English" my browser seems to lose it's mind. I can't figure out how to log into the dreamka4u.com site, either... :confuse:

allmet33 · April 2006

I tried that Mobis site and there's nothing there except for information pertaining to Mobis, what they do, why and how. I had to send an email to dreamka admin because it seems to see the Azera products, you are requested to log in. Personally, I'm not fluent in the slightest sense in my oriental languages, so I couldn't understand those four boxes under the login section. All the other cars, you could view products for with no problems.

ratledge · April 2006

Yep - I tried to bluff my way through the registration process, but I'm not too good at selecting between various options in Korean. :P

allmet33 · April 2006

I had a car before that had a TCS that could be switched on or off. When it was on, you couldn't spin the tires when you mashed on the gas pedal. Of course, with it off...you could.

The Azera is supposed to have a TCS system, which I assume is always on since I don't see a switch to deactivate it. Yet, there have been a couple times where I've made the tires spin. In all honesty, I really don't like TCS systems. Smart, careful driving eliminates the need for it. To me, it doesn't make sense to have on a 2 wheel drive vehicle, I mean what happens if both tires lose grip...you have no other wheels to transfer power to. In an all wheel drive system it makes total sense.

jim101 · April 2006

Without membership I did it, so lets see if I can get you there?

1. google, dreamka4u.com
2. scroll to bottom of page
3. click on right hand e-mail address not the left
4. a standard e-mail format should appear
5. come up with a subject
6. type in a message/request
7. provide contact info
8. hit 'send'

ratledge · April 2006

Oh, I _could_ get to that, Jim! (and I did send an e-mail requesting ability to look at the Azera ("TG") sub-page - but I couldn't decode the stuff on the registration page, even when I figued out which button to use to register (out of the four with smiley faces on them)...

jnd17 · April 2006

I did the same thing and here is the reply that I received.

Hello~

This is an original OEM part with chrome molding lines

It is same part which you already have on your car with "H" logo
excepting "H" logo.

this part doesn't have "H" logo.

Currently 3colors are available.
Black, Silver and White.

Thanks
Dreamka4ul.com

I have emailed them again requesting more information of Price, Shipping and Method of payment. I have not received a reply yet. But it has only been a few hours. JoeD

carcrazy11 · April 2006

As a motor enthusiast, I love synthetic oil, especially Mobil One Synthetic Oil.

The point is that the synthetic oil change interval largely depends on the lifespan of oil filters. 5000~7500 mile change interval is quite often seen on the synthetic ads. But there are not many oil filters that can function well for such an extended period.

The best way to diagnose the lifespan of your engine oil is to send some to the oil labs(searching on the net). Some guys did this kinda experiments and resulted in that synthetic oil with a reputable oil filter can go up to 5000 miles.

I don't drive much so I stick with the rule of 5000 miles or 6 month which ever comes first.

PS. I personally like K&N oil filter(~14 dollars at nearby Advanced Autopart Shop).

jnd17 · April 2006

I received an answer from dreamka4u.com

Hello~

We just unlock the item from our site.
(We were changing our image source so it made a lock for a while)

anyway, you can order the item from our site.

Also you can pay for the item with your caredit card or via paypal.

If you are pay for the item with your credit card.
There are some tips.
--> You can only see the paypal payment method when you check it out.
BUt just ignore and click "Check out "

Next page will be shown as PAYPAL payment page.

Then click the word " If you don't have a paypal account then click here"

You will automatically be in the credit card payment page.

Thanks
Dreamka4u.com

Does anyone know the reliability of this site and if they have bought anything from them before? I just get a little Leary buying something from a company I am not familiar with, especially from another country. Also, they offer Free Shipping World Wide? I am a little suspicious about this one. JoeD

jim101 · April 2006

Hmmmm, it took me about 5 minutes to place the order.

I knew you guys were going to rib me, thank you very much.

Like I said, ours is on order, it should be here by May 11 and installed by May 12. :shades:

frazee · April 2006

Thank you for sharing your problem with us as that is one of the most valuable aspects of a message board like this!! I will certainly check the ground under my car for the next week or so to make sure it is clean (where I park you would not normally notice a small dripping!) I am appalled at the service department's response in not being willing to send someone out to you for 10 or 15 minutes to assure you that it is not a safety issue. I would definitely contact the salesman or even moreso the manager and tell him that he should push his service person to see you....and that you will be more than happy to let Hyundai National know when you get all of their surveys (even if you have already gotten them) that THIS particular dealer's service department could not fit in a 10 or 15 minute look-see for what might be a safety issue (while they are probably using the same time to wash a customer's car!!)

allmet33 · April 2006

Frazee...you are so right, contacting someone above the dealership is one way to start making these dealerships more accountable for the way they treat their customers. I've seen too many times where a dealership is more than happy to act like your business is paramount to them, up until the point of sale and then when it comes to service...you get treated like a nuisance.

I've got a dealership in my back yard that I avoid like the plague simply because of their bad reputation towards customer service. I drive 20 miles (one way) to another dealer that truly makes you feel like your problem is their problem and will do whatever it takes to correct it.

I think some dealership owners fail to realize that a car owner's experience in the service department can be one that can make the experience with the car good or bad.

At best, the service rep. should have had you bring the car in and put you in a loaner until they figured out the problem and fixed it. After all, that is part of what the warranty is about.

jim101 · April 2006

OK, let me see if I can explain how to get there without being condescending because that's not the objective

Go to dreamka4u.com and proceed through ordering up to where you see the pay pal circle with the black dot, ignore it, continue
When you see the pay pal box ,on the left side, and the Korean script below, click on the pay pal box
On the next screen use the left side and carry on

They will provide order #, receipt ID #

Apologies to those who think this detail isn't required and your welcome to those who needed the help

ray_h1 · April 2006

"The best way to diagnose the lifespan of your engine oil is to send some to the oil labs(searching on the net). Some guys did this kinda experiments and resulted in that synthetic oil with a reputable oil filter can go up to 5000 miles."

Synthetics would have to be good for well more than 5,000 mile oil change intervals to be of any economic benefit. I've had three oil analysis reports (Blackstone Labs) since buying my '03 Sonata new in December, '02 and, though I adhere to 3,000 mile oil and filter changes, the comments section of all three reports stated that I could easily push to 5,000 miles on the buck-a-quart TropArtic 10W-30 API SM oil formulation I use. In fact the first sentence in my last used oil analysis report's comments section stated, "If these wear metals get any lower, we'll be looking at virgin oil!" (I've done six oil and filter changes over the 19,800 miles on the car. Each report has indicated progressively lower wear metal content as the engine has continued to run-in, but the last, March 9, '06, really took a header.) This was also using a dirt-cheap Champion Labs-made, WalMart "SuperTech" oil filter. (Champion Labs also makes the K&N oil filters that sell for 7x the price of the SuperTech oil filters - not saying they're the same, but they may not be as different as some would like to believe. The K&Ns do have that spiffy, macho-looking welded-on 1" cap nut, though...)

allmet33 · April 2006

So, does this mean the purported statements of increased horsepower by using Castrol Syntec Oils is a mistatement? If that's the case, wouldn't they worry about false advertising and possibly face a class action suit???

ratledge · April 2006

Real synthetics like Pennzoil Platinum can increase horsepower and mileage slightly - but not enough to make it a useful marketing tool, I don't think. Sounds kind of fishy to me, really!

I'd say two or three percent might be realistic. They are more slippery as I recall (could be "marketechture"), thus create less friction in the engine. I'm not an oil guru, so I don't remember specifics, but these newer oils have a different "base" than the older ones on the market - like Mobil-1, for example. I'm not certain which category Castrol falls in, though... :confuse: The latest ones are true synthetics in that they contain only man-made ingredients, whereas older 'synth' oils do have some naturally occurring ingredients, like parafin, etc. :surprise: The older ones are based on PAO, newer is EOP I think - memory is week on that area.

Hey "MECHANIC80" - can you help us out on this one? :shades:

allmet33 · April 2006

Well...then maybe we need to be doing some research into the Castrol synthetic oil. Have you seen the commercial they have about "unlocking the power in your car"?

Don't synthetics also have a higher burn off point as well? I know when you run a car hard with regular oil in it, you can smell it burning, but with the synthetics you don't get that burn off smell.

floridabob1 · April 2006

I have also noted that the side view mirrors are not the US oem product. Is this car Azera or Grandeur?

jim101 · April 2006

The slogans, Put a Tiger in your tank, cleans your engine as you drive, and a bajillion more, good marketing.

Gasoline is available in different octane levels and is manufactured for point of use. Less emissions (cleaner burning, may have some additional additives) for citys and metropolitan, more emissions (processed less, fewer additives) for folks in the country, rural areas.
Bottom line, GAS is GAS and it doesn't matter which pump or dealer you pumped it from and that's a fact. Marketing is the attempt to have you chose one over the other and it works, some folks swear by a given brand name.

Oil, pretty much the same from one company to the next.
But, no one would buy the CHEAP oil when they could buy the expensive oil. Some are processed 'cleaner', relative term, than others or may have different additive ratios but again oil is oil. Send different samples A, B, C etc. to your lab. Do not tell them more than A, B, C and see what they write back, you may be surprised.

Synthetics, lots of discussion and marketing, again send some different samples to the lab, D, E, F. You will be surprised with the results.

Change at 3k or 5k, maybe 7k, whatever interval suits your needs and/or warranty. Remember, oil breaks down with heat and rpms. Sitting oil does neither, it stays constant wether in your car or on the shelf. Ultimately, it's your motor, engine, selection of oil/filters/coolants/fuel and the filters to support them, you make the choice.

Filters are not just filters, there are filters that do the job and there are filters that do the job properly and there are filters that do nothing and people buy them. Again your choice based on your beliefs and what makes you comfortable.

Finally, to save Pat from having to warn us...

You don't have to reply to this post because the arguments would be never ending and ultimately would be for not because, each person will do what makes them feel the best or most secure. Anyhow one can google any brand/company and read the marketing.

Good day,

ratledge · April 2006

Well, this is true - most of them do have a higher flash point, or the point at which they physically would burst into flames. Typical oils have a 300*+ flash point, typical synthetics have 600* or more. You would have to go to the manufacturer site to look them up in the detail technical specs for each brand to compare them unless somebody has already written it up somewhere - if so, I'm not aware of it.

I know Pennzoil Platinum 10W30 is 640*, just because I looked...

Also - I won't start a flame war, but I agree with the fact that 3000 miles oil changes were for your father's Oldsmobile: today's vehicles can easily do 3750 on regular oil and should be able to do 7500-10000 on a good synthetic, but - "your milage may vary", as they say. Mobil-1 used to make an "Extended Drain" that was rated for 25000 miles, but - they withdrew it from the market after getting sued. My recommendation is 7500 miles with an oil filter swap out at 3750 just to be safe. Again - like several others, I like the K&N - a little pricey - but well worth it, I think... Of course, if you swap out the filter, you need to top off the oil - usually 1/2 quart will do.

Many vehicles made in '02 and later already have a 3750 mile interval recommendation from the makers using standard oil.

mechanic80 · April 2006

that you think I might have anything more to add the synthetic vs. petroleum based oil debate. You all seem to have it covered pretty well! IMHO synthetic oil is a feel-good accessory like HagenDazs is a feel-good ice cream. I change my oil @ 3mo or 3k miles religiously. (castrol blend, semi-synth) With the type of driving I do, I know that's excessive BUT it surely doesn't hurt anything. Yes, synthetics have a higher resistance to heat degradation, and yes they can be proven to be more slipery (by single-digit percentage points) but unless you're regularly crossing the Mojave in summer or can't remember to do a regular LOF, there isn't a single motor oil for sale that doesn't meet minimum manufacturer's requirements. I have always maintained that regular LOF service is the cheapest insurance for a long-lived vehicle if for no other reason than the fact that inspecting the car every 4 months catches wearing items like hoses and belts, dirty filters, and potential problems. Thanks for asking!

frazee · April 2006

Bigsky....Hyundai called me today to "welcome" me as a new Azera owner (I bought on 1/31) and left a customer service number for owners (indicated there would be a specific rep in the future) of 800-633-5151 between 9 AM and 8 PM Eastern time. I would not be shy about calling them to complain about your dealer's service response to your concerns on the loss of brake fluid!! FYI

chilliwack · April 2006

Hey mech..when would you recommend doing the first oil change on the Azera? I was going to do it at 1500 to remove any break-in particles. What do you think? Thx.

shawal · April 2006

Hi,

Ordered the new Grille last night....but got a message back from them this morning that EB (black) Grille is out of stock.

Luckily I paid by PayPal and they issued a full refund.

Nigel

shawal · April 2006

Here in Middle East the Azera comes with Hankook/Kumho tyres, which I found to be noisy and did not perform well when given a bit of throttle.

After hunting around the only 235/55 R17 sied tyre I could find was the Pirelli P6000.

Wow, what a difference 4 tyres make.

The ride is stiffer, especially when cornering and the previous body roll, basically gone.

Now when the taffic lights change I can get off the line without loosing traction.

So much quieter on the road too.

Expensive yes, but for me a great investment.

Nigel

shawal · April 2006

Las week I got the windows tinted professionally at V-Kool.

They did all the side windows, back window and Sunroo in 65% heat reduction (HR) light smoke tint and the front windw in 58% hr clear.

The front window was more than 1/2 the total cost as it is clear.

The previous day it was 34C and the A/C fan had 5 bars on the display.

The day after the tinting, it was again 34C, but the A/C fan was now only on 3 bars...great.

Yesterday it was 39C, just over 100F, and driving along I put my hand on the black dash and it was warm...not the usual B'Hot to the touch.

Just one annoying thing with the A/C, after work and getting into the hot car, starting the engine....the A/C takes sooooo long to kick in and start cooling the cabin down.

Nigel

frazee · April 2006

Nigel

If you get an "autostarter" you can start the car up 5 minutes before you want to get into it (perhaps from your office if you are parked just outside) and with the A/C set to max it will be nice and cooled down when you get in!! Just, as in the winter, with the heated seats where the Azera controls keep them on you can autostart and 5-10 minutes later get into a warmed, defrosted car with hot seats!! Just make sure that your dealer (or an installer your dealer "blesses") does the autostart install and provides a little note in writing that it will not interfere with your warranty since technically it could!!

mechanic80 · April 2006

I'm planing mine at 3000 miles. There is very little "break in" of today's engines other than a little loosening of tolerances translating to marginally increased power/mileage over the first several thousand miles.

jim101 · April 2006

Well, OEM grill without 'H' must be a hot item, black and silver inventory 'SOLD OUT' :sick:

I'd get on the back order list, providing that they can give a reasonable time to fill

ray_h1 · April 2006

"I'm planing mine at 3000 miles. There is very little "break in" of today's engines other than a little loosening of tolerances..."

I would respectfully disagree with that advice (although I think you're right-on with the 3,000 mile habit!). While all major auto manufacturers have gone to CNC machining and microfinishing sliding surfaces, and make every effort to clear core sand and metallic flashing out of the blocks' and heads' nooks and crannies, there are nevertheless inevitable factory leftovers. The oil filter traps most of this junk, but it can never get it all. Like you, I'm fastidious about 3,000 mile oil changes, but for the initial change during run-in, I like to get the factory-fill oil and oil filter out at around 500 - 600 miles. I was amazed how much wear metal was found on a used oil analysis at that point. That slop was better out than still in. Then go to whatever odometer oil change point you'd normally practice for the second and subsequent intervals. While some would argue that doing so is grossly premature and a waste of perfectly good motor oil, it only involves ONE extra oil and filter change over the life of the engine. Look at it this way, guys - you've already financed $20,000 - $30,000+ and you're going penurious over ONE extra oil change during your new engine's most vulnerable period?

(For the rest of you budding oil freaks, get over to BITOG and read up. Lotsa good information over there and Pat would probably appreciate the reduction on bandwidth loss over here harping about motor oil.

)

shawal · April 2006

I was thinking of sending one of the Office Juniors out to start the car for me....sort of a manual Autostart.

ratledge · April 2006

"Just one annoying thing with the A/C, after work and getting into the hot car, starting the engine....the A/C takes sooooo long to kick in and start cooling the cabin down."

Well, like most better quality cars these days, instead of blowing you away with warm air - until it has time to make sure you're going to get cool air at least, it keeps the fan speed at a minimum or basically off. I'd much prefer to have a ramp-up to cool air than getting blown off my seat by warm or even hot air until it has a chance to cool down. I consider it a feature, frankly! :shades: It's pretty much like the fact that until the engine warms up enough it doesn't blow cold air on your feet during the winter - it waits until the temp goes up and gently increases the fan as the temp or the air coming out rises to a warmer air-flow. I'd rather have it like that than the alternative, myself!

ratledge · April 2006

They are a bit pricey, but I would prefer to migrate towards the "Michelin Energy MXV4 S8", which is considered a "grand touring all season" tire. They run about $200 each, but that specific tire size/geometry is unusual at best - not easy to find a worthy competitor. I'm not using this as a recommendation, but for a full description of that specific Michelin tire (which may well be sold under a different marketing name other than in the USA) click here: Michelin 235/55R17 description...I wouldn't recommend them for a cold climate area, since they aren't meant for snow or ice but "all season" - of course, I live in coastal South Carolina, so I see snow about once every five years.

They're rated 98VR, so - don't expect them to last too long unless you are a relatively sedate driver looking more for mileage and perfect handling in a 'testy' situation but all-around great pick for your Azera! Users are all over the chart as far as their opinion for icey & snowy handling ability - so as always "Your mileage may vary". :P They advertise that they are "low noise" and "enhanced foul weather handling", so I'd check out both the main ('overview') tab and the 'reviews' and 'specs' tabs. Hopefully, we'll have more choices in the future, but for now - probably the best fit all around (no pun intended...)! :shades: Considering the sidewall presures you're going to put on any front-wheel-drive vehicle with the Azera's HP & torque - you'd be better off with a well-rounded tire (again, sorry - no pun intended) - torque steer will mess you up unless you're used to it: I remember the first time I really kicked the wife's I35 good while in a corner - kind of freaked me out when they went exactly where I had pointed them whether I wanted them to or not! :surprise:

Seems like I remember these are OEM (factory) equip on the '06 Avalon as well. :confuse:

snakeweasel · April 2006

Isn't that what mob bosses do?

averigejoe · April 2006

"freaked me out when they went exactly where I had pointed them whether I wanted them to or not!" ?

I don't get it. If you pointed your tires in a certain direction then you should have wanted to go that way, right? Otherwise, why would you have pointed them that way?

I thought torque steer was when the tires try to turn even sharper than your intended path.

floridabob1 · April 2006

Anyone have idea where to get dark wood trim kit that actually matches the existing oem color? All samples that I have received are not anyway near the oem trim that came on car. (beige interior, dark wood)

prodo · April 2006

I bought my Azera (black/beige, limited with ultimate package) last Friday from pugi.com. (Thanks to one of the members in this forum who brought this internet dealer)

I got an quote from them 2.5 weeks ago and I tried to find local or closer dealers who can match the price but the best I could find is $1300 more. (I live in West Lafayette, IN)

So I rent a car and drove there (about 2 hours) and just bought it. It was a quick/hassle-free experience.

The MSRP was about $30089. The price I paid is $25316+$60(doc fee) with a loyalty rebate. (with tax/tile and everything it's about $27200)

I asked them to remove the wind-deflector and set EZ-in/out and auto door lock. The technician was not sure about EZ-in/out but when he connected a hand-held computer terminal, it was so easy to set up. I was standing by him and even I could do it.(Actually, I was coaching him. hey go down, yes, I think it's that menu..)

I know that Azera is sold about $40,000 in Korea although it has a lot more options (power back seat, rear parking assitance, front wide-angle camera, etc.)

My previous car was Honda Accord EX and it's a big step-up for me.

jnd17 · April 2006

Congratulations on your new vehicle. It has been nine weeks now since I have orderd mine. I am getting very jealous of all you lucky people enjoying your new rides. The way my order is going it looks like I might need Snow Tires before getting my car.

JoeD

artvandeley · April 2006

Hey guys why is the Azera Limited worth 6,000 more than the Sonata Lx w/ the sunroff/ stero option ???? Give me specifics

I was just at the Hyundai Dealer and the salesman told me there was no difference "Same car, just $6,000 cheaper" (I quickly realized that the ~50 Sonatas on his lot versus the 2 Azeras were his motivation for saying that). Being a typical car salesman, he somehow had me in the car and test driving a Sonata before I could get a word in edgewise. I figured what the hell, lets go for a spin. We own two cars; A 94 Toyota Corolla and a 95 Honda Accord V6 EX. Its hard to explain why, becasue I know the Sonata has the stats that say it should feel like my Accord, but I definately felt more like I was driving a Corolla with Leather. After the drive I told him it wasnt for me and hopped back in my Accord. I acutally said outlout to myself "No way that car is as nice as this car." Again I cant explain it, it just feels & drives better.

The next day I went back and asked to drive the Azera. This time I felt like I was in a substantial upgrade from my Accord. Drove it, loved it. Got back in my Accord and most definatley felt like I was getting in a lesser vehicle.

What this whole ramble is supposed to be getting at: You gotta drive them to see what you get for more money. They are simply different cars. IMO, one worse than a 95 Accord, one better.

joe97 · April 2006

Well, to anwser your question, the Azera is rommier, more powerful, more luxury/premium than the Sonata. The Azera carries features the Sonata does not carry, two additional airbags equipped (eight total), and other premium items. Both cars are great and good buys, well worth the money and bang for the buck.

Is Azera Limited worth 6K than the Sonata LX? Probably, since all other midsize-large sedan combinations have similar price differences (should note both the Sonata and Azera are classified as large vehicles - technical note).

edsofaru · April 2006

Dear Friends

While I was browsing the Internet I found an EBAY link about a "Power Chip". First I would like to leave something clear, I do not have much mechanical knowledge and I do not plan to mess with my car since I love it the way it is.
However I found this interesting and decided to ask if anyone on this forum has any knowledge or experience with this kind of items.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ULTIMATE-PERFORMANCE-CHIP-HYUNDAI-AZERA-2006_W0QQ- cmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33597QQitemZ8061217152QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

Thanks in advanced.

Edgar

ricwhite · April 2006

I was just at the Hyundai Dealer and the salesman told me there was no difference "Same car, just $6,000 cheaper" (I quickly realized that the ~50 Sonatas on his lot versus the 2 Azeras were his motivation for saying that). Being a typical car salesman, he somehow had me in the car and test driving a Sonata before I could get a word in edgewise.

I went to four Hyundai Dealerships before I bought my Azera (leased actually). Three of them were bad  one totally awful! They lied and manipulated and were, generally, incompetent. I left several of them just laughing and shaking my head. I didn't feel that way at the Acura or VW dealerships I visited.

Some highlights from various Hyundai Dealerships:

"I'm sorry but we won't give you the advertised lease deal."

"Yeah, we can get you a black Azera, but it'll cost $500 extra."

"The invoice prices you printed from Edmunds and those other places are wrong. It's actually much more than that."

"I can guarantee that you won't find a lease on an Azera Ultimate for under $500."

"No, rebates are PAID by the customer, you don't get them."

"The Azera is as good as a BMW 760."

"I'm sorry, but my manager doesn't know how to work the computer, so we can't give you numbers on the lease."

"Yes, the lease is $299 a month, but when you tack on the Ultimate package it's $520 a month. Our computer never lies."

"Sorry, our address is printed wrong. You probably ended up at that farmland about 20 miles south of here, right?"

"Yeah, that $350 is called a Dealer Name Fee' which we must charge on each vehicle for the privilege of placing the name "Ken Garff" on our dealership.

BUT . . . I found a good Hyundai Dealership about 60 miles away, so they're out there. But watch out because my experience was about 75% were pretty bad.

snakeweasel · April 2006

"Yeah, that $350 is called a Dealer Name Fee' which we must charge on each vehicle for the privilege of placing the name "Ken Garff" on our dealership.

Did you tell them "Good you can take it off and save me $350 and you $250 a month for the advertising space."

ray_h1 · April 2006

Lemme guess - about $12.00 with shipping, right?

The eBay seller who hawks this stuff comes out with essentially the same device every time a new car model is introduced. First, a little bit (ok, a LOT...) of background. All cars currently sold in the civilized world use onboard engine management computers that adjust fuel and spark delivery according to quality of fuel, temperature, barometric pressure, speed, load, etc. - the engines literally tune themselves on the fly. To do this, the computer has a ROM chip with fuel delivery and ignition advance settings already mapped in. There are some companies which will sell you a replacement ROM chip (or provide a service to replace a ROM chip that's hard-soldered in place if you forward your ECM (techno-babble for engine controle module - the computer) to them and they, in turn, FedEx your jiggered ECM via next day delivery. These chips can yield up to about a 20 hp increase when special 96 octane fuel is used. (Try and find it, though...) In most cases, with 93 pump octane premium unleaded fuel, you'll be doing goeed to see half that power increase. These chips (or computer modifications) run several hundred bucks - and they're legitimate. So, is this what you're getting from the eBay seller? In your dreams. What you'd get is a simple resistor that you wire in series with the mass airflow sensor (MAS). Some of these devices are tricked out as a plug-in module that you plug directly onto the MAS after removing its lead. That lead is inturn plugged back onto the other socket on the "amazing power booster" thingy. The electrical current reduction that results from the MAS to the engine management computer "tricks" the computer into "thinking" that the ambient temperature is cooler than it really is. That in turn allows the engine management computer to direct the fuel injectors to spritz more gasoline into the intake manifold ports. More gas means higher power, right? Yep - IF you can correspondingly achieve more air delivery into the engine. And, there's the rub. Without achieving increased air delivery, that extra gas merely goes out the exhaust as partially burned SMOG. Bad for your car's expensive catalytic converter(s), bad for the environment, bad for your wallet, and perhaps bad for your engine if some of that unburned gasoline is blown past the piston rings to dilute your engine oil. Net power increase? Perhaps a piddly (and largely unnoticed) 2 or 3 horsepower on a COLD day. (Air's more dense when it's cold.) How can the purveyor of these overpriced resistors get away with this scam? Answer: consult any English useage dictionary for the definition of the word, "lying".

edsofaru · April 2006

ray_h1

Many thanks for the feedback and good explanation.

Like I said I am not planning to do any changes to my car that could mess its performance or warranty. I just found that thing and I thought that it could easily be a scam.

Regards
Edgar

shawal · May 2006

Sorry guys,
But as of today, here in Saudi Arabia, the King has decreed a 33% "CUT" in petrol cost at the bowser.
So now we are paying 16 US Cents a Liter...I think about 60 US cents a US Gal.
Nigel

ratledge · May 2006

I guess I should have clarified that: "off the line" if you goose it, and the wheels are even slightly off-center, it tends to pull you that way very quickly if you're not careful and you really 'punch' it...

Hyundai Azera 2006

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