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Comments
pathomp
Good luck with the Gibson. Keep us posted. There are other options available should you have in cab resonance that you don't want...and no it doesn't require removing the Gibson....rear seat maybe...
rwagoner
ditto, I love my black on black also
From Kwajalien
Dean
JAU- I placed my order on a saturday march 11th. They put the order through to gm on tues (14th) and was accepted. Tues is the day i think dealerships put orders through. Can anyone verify this???
Ryan
David - if I were you I would just start calling dealerships in your area on the phone (this saves a lot of time) and asking for the new car or truck manager. Tell them what you want to do "Pay $200 over invoice, no advertising fee" or whatever. Start with larger dealerships as they have more allocation of ext cabs, etc.
I made my deal over the phone in maybe 5 minutes and then went in and it took about another 30 minutes to make out the order.
Keep in mind I still don't have my new truck yet (ha) but sort of feel I'm headed in the right direction.
Sorry if I'm repeating earlier posts but hoping this info can help someone else.
Denny
ps: there is a GMC dealer that posts it sells trucks at $200 under invoice: www.autos-at-cost.com. This is Southern GM and I know there are those on here that don't like them, but it at least gives somewhere to look to see whats available.
funny thing is though, that person does'nt even
realize who you were makin' cracks at. LOL
sometimes it's fun to just kick back and see what
he comes up with next. and then to watch Tim
slice and diceLOL
Good Luck On This One Now!!!!
...red
is.
...red
You are correct that the readings for a torque wrench are to tighten, and readings when the fastener breaks loose are erronious. That being said, my method was to tighten the lug nuts and the torque wrench "clicked" at 60 lbs./ft. with some at 50. The nuts were turning at that point until it clicked. (didn't use impact to romove wheel nuts)
It just made me wonder about the torque setting from the factory. However, my partner at work reminded me about the first time I installed aluminum wheels back in '72 and did not have the customer bring the vehicle back in 30 miles to have the wheel nuts retorqued. She was a knockout, the 1/4 panel was ugly. I was just wondering if anyone else had experienced what seemed like low torque settings on wheel nuts from dat of build.
Red,
Friend of mine Scottsdale AZ does buildable wrecks and built himself a 99 Sierra. Monochrome red. Door handles, mouldings, bumper fillers, etc. Man is this thing red, but the 17" wheels and tires set it off real nice.
There is hope yet.
Matthew
red
being older as compared to Ryan, I may qualify for the carmine...LOL
Dean
Anyway Dave says it's not loud at all, wishes it was louder. I'll let you know.
Paul
Although I got every tool known to man.....LOL....drives the wife crazy!
- Tim
The notches break, or strip out and are useless inside of a few years anyway! There really ought to be something better, and easier!
Tim,
24" 1/2 inch breaker bar...if that ain't enough...6foot length of 2" galvanized black is enough of a "widow maker" for me! haha Gota love Snap-On..."It just broke!"
matt
Usually a torque wrench takes the place of an 18" breaker bar real good if you don't have one..
- Tim
Paul
Didn't you know that Dave40 is tone deaf? He should be runnin Flowmaster 30's... LOL
You could always add stereo insulation in the rear and bottom of the cab to lessen in cab resonance from the Gibson, I did that with a guesstamation reduction of about 30%, extended the tip past the body by about 6"; also could add on a "resonator tip"...good luck...
Dean
He swears the order was accepted but, forgive me, I find it hard to believe.
Sorry for misleading you but I guess I'm just gullible. Denny
Ryan
When my '00 Silverado Z71 has the 2Hi indicator lamp lit, I then depress the 4Hi. The 4Hi lamp blinks for 3 or 4 seconds, stays lit and the 2Hi lamp is extinguished and it appears the truck is in 4WD high gear.
NOW the problem? I depress the 4LO, the lamp blinks continuously as well as the 4HI remains lit. I can't tell if the truck has actually shifted to 4LO. Does anyone have a clue as to what is happening? Thanx
Dustyone
Thanks for the update. I guess my local dealer and Chevrolet.com may have been right when they said 3 weeks ago that I could not order the Siverado with two-tone. If GM says no two-tones until Nov or Dec, that really means no two-tones until Apr or May if you look at their previous track record with the 4th door option availability on the ext-cabs.
If I have to wait that long, my order may be for the 2002 Silverado!
Ryan,
Let us know what your salesman says.
-David
If you move forward, you can tell if you are in Lo range by the speed/rpms. Just pull it into Lo gear and select 4Hi and note speed/rpms. Select 4Lo and repeat. The speed should be about 1/3 at the same rpms.
To tell if you are actually in 4wd, try to move forward on dry pavement. Turn sharp to either right or left. In 4wd you will hear noises as the truck refuses to turn anymore unless you give it a lot of throttle.
If you are having trouble either getting into 4wd or into 4Lo, its time to visit the dealer.
Mike L
Ryan
I think you have to be stopped, with the selector in neutral to get 4-Lo.
Then 6 qts in the crankcase. Run engine for one minute.
Brings it to the top of the cross hatch area on
dipstick. I don't care what yall say....It's MY truck. MY DIPSTICK is correct. Send yours in to
me along with check or money order for $19.95 to:
Dipstick calibration offer
P.O. Box 21259
NY, NY
Not valid with any other offer. Not valid for NY
residents. Allow 6 months for delivery.
In my old Chevy a quick push of the lever from 2 Hi..past N.into 4 Lo was all it took.
With buttons...you have to be stopped..or going 2-3 MPH and go from N to 4LO...you will know..
I have yet in almost a year to need 4-LO with this truck...it came in twice in 10 years with the old one.
Good Luck
- Tim
Mark
kyle
Mark
kyle
one was finger tight when I took it out..and the other was about 20 lbs...so it's not real critical....just don't cruch the large rubber washer too much.
Don't ask Ryan...as he has never been under there!..LOL..heehehehehhhe
- Tim
Looked into the HPIII system. Liked what I saw but I'm not sure I need to tweek my truck that much for what I do. Like the idea of having more control of the computer. Didn't like the idea of a $300+ plus system designed to only work on one vehicle at a time. The info from the HP site answered a lot of questions about octane and what to use. The advance is set for 87 at the factory. Given that, running higher octane won't make any difference. The trucks are set to run on the lowest common grade sold. The computer and knock sensors will adjust (add more advance) if you experience knock (autodetonation) with 87 octain. As octane prevents ignition of fuel and the release of BTU's is the same for 93 as it is for 87, unless you reprogram your chip, running higher octane is truly a waste of money.
If anyone is looking for true bolt on performance enhancement, find anything that improves volumetric efficiency. The K&N filter kits are a good example. Blowers and turbos act in a similar way, but without getting technical, are not the same and require more modifications to the system.
Using +4 spark plugs are good if you increase the watts (current and/or voltage Ohm's Law and all aside) of energy to the plug. Otherwise you are just splitting the availble energy into four 1/4 charge "bolts" (and that's assuming all four points take a hit at the same time). The +4 plugs are good at getting you to spend more money than you need to and do usually ensure that, even with severe fouling, there is at least one contact with lower resistance than the other three. That is about the only advantage to having more than one electrode on your spark plug and may make them worth the extra $.
I haven't purchased the shop manual yet and don't have a lot of specific techno data on the Silverado/Sierra. The stuff I'm pointing out is basic automotive engineering theory and first hand knowledge. If this causes more questions than I answered I'll dust off some of my reference books and revisit the Otto cycle with anyone interested in the nitty gritty. Be prepared to discuss such fun topics as top/bottom dead center, thermal propogation, PV=nrT, and three dimensional spark curves.
Another $.02 worth,
Phil
I know it was bad! (From a former Silverado owner who now drives a Y2K Monte SS)
Ryan
..heated bumpers?....for what?....I guess the push theory is why then?/
LOL
- Tim
I was just told the 2 tone paint for the silverados is on constraint till expected availability November.
Also composite boxes become available next month.
I found out from my salesman Will. His dealership got a GM Administrative message whatever that is.
Hope this helpos you guys out your salesman is definitly telling you the truth.
Ryan
Ryan
I know where and what the rattle is exactly down to the exact location. I rarely use the air or blower
Ryan
Dean
So don't worry about Firestones on your new truck. I would worry about Generals.
Bridgestone has a 30 day free ride, no mileage limit. Yes, people buy Mud Duelers for hunting season and then bring them back for AT tires under the 30 day trial.
I'm done with my propaganda.
Also quick question for anyone who knows.
I was going to work and had the defoggers on (not rear just the regualar i dont have the rear ones) then i got warm so i turned on the a/c after 5 min it got to cold so i turned that off and hit the recirc (2nd button) button. Ok this is where it gets good. It flashed 3 times then stopped. The vent (1st button) button stayed lit the whole time. Whats up with my recirc button? its flipping out haha
Ryan
I had the A/C on.
It worked before
Ryan
Ryan... My truck had a rattle in the dash when I picked it up new at the dealer. Since I was still on my "test drive," the salesman was in the truck with me and we immediately whipped in to the service department. While sitting still, I could bump the dash with my fist (passenger side) and recreate the rattle. Well, we beat on the dash for a while to try to isolate the location, and after about five minutes, the rattle went away, never to return! Okay, I guess I lied. They have actually fixed something!
VelvetRide Shackles Install... DO NOT DAMAGE THE LOWER BOLT! You have to use this to install the new shackles. Re-read the instructions. I promise, if you follow the instructions, it can be done. The height of your jack stands is semi-critical to taking the load off of the springs before removing the bolt. Mine happen to be just the right height; slipped right out. After the lower bolt is out you must lift the rear end assembly, along with the springs, up high enough to clear the frame, then the bolt will slip out.
Sorry for the long post...
Try this and hear the axles engage (while sitting still, engine off). With the ignition key in the run position and the shift lever in "neutral", switch between 2HI and 4LO. The 4LO lamp will blink, clunk, then stay lit. If the 4LO lamp blinks for 30 seconds, see your dealer for service (according to the manual).
Thanks guys
Dustyone
Apparently Bridgestone/Firestone will be very short on replacment tires by the end of the week.
Phil (Sabot1) agree with most of your comments (my degree is ME with a focus on energy) but two things stand out for me
1) I have experienced SEVERE, continuous ping, at WOT when running at full GCWR conditions using 87 octane.
2) To get full benefit (horsepower or BSFC) from a give compression ratio, you need to match the octane with the ignition advance curve. Apparently, the engineers designed this family of engines to operate optimally with >= 91 octane, but they will tolerate (in most instances) lesser grades of octane.
I still stand by my assertion that the marketing folks had the owner's manual changed to read 87 octane.
PS. Last 450 mile refuel, fuel economy up ~10% using 92 octane but my fuel cost is actually up as premium is a 12.5% premium. Will keep yawl posted. Will be towing my 5,000lb trailer throughout the Rockies in a week and a half and would like the memory registers to contain info on only premium.
Ryan
Ryan
I called GM yesterday with order # and sure enough the truck had been ordered when they said. GM just stopped making them. It didn't matter if you were in the order line or not.
My dealer has about 8 or so 2001's. Only 2 Z71's - both 2 tones but not what I can live with. They are going to try to locate me an acceptable truck this afternoon. There are a lot of 2001 trucks on the lots (many two tones) and if I were you I would go to a larger dealer and ask them to try to "locate" the truck you want. The larger dealer will have a better chance trading one of their trucks for the one you want at another dealers. It doesn't take them very long to search and see if any dealers in you region has something close to what you want.
Like I said my dealer has 8 or so 2001's but none are setting on his main lot as he said he has too many 2000's he's trying to get rid of.
We talked about getting black and painting lower pewter, but I don't think that would work as black truck has black trim. Two tone with pewter on bottom has pewter trim (I think).
Anyway - that's the story for this day. I have the Zaino wax I have to buy a new truck.
Denny
i really wanted some new tires. Guess ill have to live with these for a bit longer dammit
Ryan
When did you buy your Gibson catback? More importantly, when was it made? According to Chris at Gibson the first version they made for the 5.3L was not researched very well and was much louder than their current version. Just wondering (hoping) that could explain the excessive resonance you experienced.
Paul
just called my local firestone dealer. he said the oem p265's that came on silverados are NOT on recall. he did say though, that in accordance with GM and Firestone published statements, they will do a free-of-charge inspection of my tires. if anything is wrong with the tires they will replace them at pro-rated cost...i kinda hope there's something wrong with mine - i want an early swap for bf goodrich's or michelins.
anybody have any pros or cons on various tires? i'm sticking with the 265's, not looking at 285's or anything...thanks...
kyle