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Toyota Pickup (pre-Tacoma) issues

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Comments

  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    A friend of mine recently had a similar problem on his Honda. It would start up, but die off after just a second or so, especially on cold days. The tech at the dealership even noted that they could only recreate the problem on cold mornings. It turned out to be the ignition coil in tandem with a corroded wire. The wire was some kind of power supply wire to the ignition coil/igniter. I suggest you check your coil with a ohm meter. The primary resistance (between the two holes where the connector plugs in) should be .36 to .55 ohms. The secondary resistance: put one probe to the positive terminal where the connector plugs into the coil, and the other probe should go to the high tension terminal, AKA the port where the distributor wire plugs in. It should read 9.0 to 15.4 K ohms. If all that is normal, then you'll have to find some more statistics online to know what ohms should read on the wires supplying power to the coil and igniter.
  • gilbertsengilbertsen Member Posts: 5
    Try change the filter that might do the trick.
  • gilbertsengilbertsen Member Posts: 5
    The temp gage. It reads very low heat even after wormed up. I changed out the heat sensor and still is the same. Checked the gage with a short and works like a champ and goes all the way to hot. What else could be wrong?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    Does it seem like there's no heat in the engine? After driving it for a few minutes are you actually able to touch the valve cover(s) and feel very little heat? If it seems that the engine is actually not heating up, you should probably check you thermostat. It doesn't happen very often, but they can become stuck open sometimes, and it won't allow your engine to achieve full operating temperature. Also, listen to see if you hear the "whirring" of the fan while you drive, especially if you've been on the freeway, and then back to a stop. If it seems that the fan is continuously pulling air, your fan clutch may have locked up, and that could be keeping the temperature down.
  • gilbertsengilbertsen Member Posts: 5
    The temp of the engine seems hot but wont register on gage.Just a little bit like it is running cold.
  • bakersfieldbakersfield Member Posts: 2
    My 95 toyota pickup 5sp manual 160K miles won't start. Cleaned battery terminals, not the starter. No click when you turn key. Checked Neutral switch from clutch pedal, is good. Please help!
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    Did you check your fuses? Also could be the starter solenoid.
  • tony1177tony1177 Member Posts: 4
    ok in short. My engine has 90,000 on it new head gasket, egr valve, fuel filter, i put a crawler cam in it, and so on. It runs rough and was told it isnt the cam. At idle its alittle rough. I also noticed that after a half tank of gas once on highway if im just kinda idling along i get a check engine light with 72 code. Only after half tank. The code is multiple items. The only thing i can think of is vaccum hoses off. maybe. anything ill help
  • bakersfieldbakersfield Member Posts: 2
    yes checked the fuses, but does anyone know how to check the relay
  • harborlightsharborlights Member Posts: 6
    I have a 1994 Toyota Pick up. 4 wd, 5 speed. We have a replacement gas tank but no sending unit. We can't seem to locate one. Does anyone know if a 4 Runner part might work? Any suggestions? :sick:
  • luckyiiiluckyiii Member Posts: 3
    I have a 1994 Toyota Pick up 4x4 4cyl, The vehicle keeps giving me a trouble code # 71 I have replaced and cleaned everything thing listed in the manual, and i am still receiving the code, what else could be the problem?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    Just makin' sure...

    Did you test the EGR temp. sensor? Make sure to plug it back in securely?

    Did you vacuum/electric test the VSV? Test the VSV for ground to itself?

    Test for any vacuum leaks? Test the EGR itself to make sure the vacuum can open it?

    Did you look inside the passageway inside the head to make sure it's not clogged?

    Lastly... Did you make sure to reset the computer, pull the EFI fuse?

    Just want to rule out the easily overlooked...
  • luckyiiiluckyiii Member Posts: 3
    I have done everthing listed except for checking for vacuum leaks, and testing the VSV.

    What is the VSV, and how exactly do i test it?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    OK, that's gonna take some research on my part to make sure I tell you everything correctly. I'll have to get back to you on all the info.

    I'm assuming since you have a code 71 that you have a California emission truck, right?

    In the mean time, do a Google search for 1993 toyota pickup factory service manual. Follow the links and you should find one online that you can use for free.

    You're also probably going to need to test the EGR vacuum modulator, which is the saucer shaped thing next to the EGR.

    The VSV's are the small block shaped things on top of the valve cover that have vacuum lines and wire harness plugs running to them. The allow the computer to manipulate the engine by opening/closing vacuum valves to control different things. On a CA truck, this includes the EGR. It also has them for controlling the idle up for A/C, and for fuel cut off RPM. If I remember correctly, there are 2 VSV's for the EGR on a CA truck. Have to get back to you for that one.

    Start with looking for the manual, I'll try to post up tonight the rest of the info.
  • luckyiiiluckyiii Member Posts: 3
    Ye the truck is a california model, and i have also installed a new EGR vacuum modulator unit.

    I will certainly look into it deeper, that just may be my problem.

    Thanks,
  • toyman812toyman812 Member Posts: 2
    open the relay and try to start it if the relay works you will see it click
  • toyman812toyman812 Member Posts: 2
    i have a lot of toyota parts 83 93 90 88 if anyone is needing anything let me know maybe i'll have what you need
  • jtill43jtill43 Member Posts: 4
    I am looking for a speedo cable for a 1990 toyota pickup base model, automatic trans four wheel drive, v-6 3.0L, can you help me out? And would you be able to ship it to me in Anchorage Alaska?
  • jtill43jtill43 Member Posts: 4
    My pickup when turned hard clicks sound like metal on metal contact, buddy of mine said it is common for toyota's Is it CV joints? steering? Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

    Thanks
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    Yup, if you're turning the wheel all the way to lock, as in making a U-turn, and you hear a clicking or a sound like someone's beating under the front end with a ball pien hammer, then a likely culprit is the CV axles.
  • jtill43jtill43 Member Posts: 4
    Appreciate it. Do you know how much that will cost to fix? Is that something I can do myself?

    Thanks,
    Justin
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    I have no idea how much it might cost. Sorry, by my truck isn't 4WD, so I've never done it. Which means that I can't offer any advice as to how easy or hard it would be.

    Do a Google search for "1993 Toyota pickup Factory Service Manual" that should link you to an online manual from Toyota that can help a lot. The 1990 and 1993 should all be about the same.

    Also, www.yotatech.com is another board I frequent. Look it up and use the "search" feature. Search something along the lines of "CV axle replacement".

    There are MANY people on that board with the same truck/4WD system as yours with MANY tips and tricks for working on them.

    Hope this helps.
  • jtill43jtill43 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks again for your help
  • smilehardsmilehard Member Posts: 1
    I just rebuilt the 22RE in my truck. When I got back into the truck and got it running, it runs for about 5 minutes and then dies. When it starts to sputter, if I keep the RPM's up, it will continue to run until I let off the gas. Thank you for any advice!
  • jporter1jporter1 Member Posts: 5
    http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxicons/- emotorcons/emo_sick.gif It sounds like a vacuum leak or a fuel blockage. New fuel filter is installed? Check around engine for vacuum leak.http://a332.g.akamai.net/f/332/936/12h/www.edmunds.com/media/townhall/webxi- cons/emotorcons/emo_confused.gif
  • redicknuffredicknuff Member Posts: 1
    i need an interior driver side door handle (the one you use to close the door when sitting inside) for a 1990 toyota pickup - grey interior - grizzly model, 4WD - 3.0 V6 thanks
  • 9422re9422re Member Posts: 1
    I have a 94 extended cab 4x4 22re. It starts fine when I first start it, but after I drive it 5-10 miles and turn it off sometimes it will not start it drags like the battery is dead. after it sets for about 30 minutes or so it will start just fine. I have replaced battery, battery cables, starter, fuel filter, spark plugs, and changed the oil. it has not helped at all. Nobody seem to know whats causing the problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I have not changed the distrib cap. it starts and runs fine has a small miss in it but otherwise runs great. little hard on gas but I have big tires also. I noticed it has developed a large oil leak in the last month or so. its like something is getting hot and having to cool off before the truck will start after being run for longer than 15 minutes. Any suggestions ? short on cash and cant afford to take it to a shop !
  • treegrowertreegrower Member Posts: 1
    New guy here. I am currently on my 7th Toyota truck, 3rd 4wd. This is the first automatic transmission vehicle I have ever owned (since 1964), and drastically need to swap to a manual ! I get only 13 mpg with this 93 SR5, and I got 20 with my 92 SR5 5 sp. I have done these swaps on American made classics (my other truck is a 57 Chevy w/ 350), and know the task is pretty simple, however my mechanic warns me about compatibility of the truck's computer when switching trans.

    Some questions before I invest in parts:
    Are the transfer cases the same from auto to manual?
    Any need to change or modify crossmembers when switching to manual?
    Are the drive shafts the same length when switching to manual?
    Do I need to change computers, or is the auto to manual switch OK since there is no electronic shifting?
    Thanks in advance for any advice.
  • cwwilson721cwwilson721 Member Posts: 1
    My '92 Pickup a/c is constantly on. Due to this, my MPG is more like GPM, and overheating is getting to be a major issue. If I turn off the blower fan, the clutch kicks out, so I'm fairly sure it is a relay issue. But where is it? Or the fuse? I can make some headway if I knew where the $%^&* relay or fuse is at.

    Any ideas? I've looked in the under-hood box, and drivers side kick panel, and no joy.
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    Check the switch. The one on the dashboard that says, "A/C". Might be shorted out internally.

    Here's a link for the procedure:

    http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/1993/airconditioning/18acswitch.pdf
  • jayo1jayo1 Member Posts: 1
    Does anyone have a suggestion on where I might buy a front mount receiver hitch for my 1993 4x4 toyota pu? Everything I've found on line is for the more recent tacoma's.
    Many thanks,
    J
  • ebrown3rdebrown3rd Member Posts: 1
    I'm running into the same problem. I have a 89 4 Runner (Automatic) and soon as the RPM's reach about 3K throttle cuts out. If I hold throttle down it just cuts out and once it drops picks back up and drops out again. If I am on flat ground and keep the throttle below 3K I can progress thru the gears and get up some speed. I have new Throttle Position Sensor and Fuel Filter. Did you get yours fixed
  • 92jaime92jaime Member Posts: 1
    i have a 92 toyota pickup and when i turn it on when its cold the idle is as it should when its warming up, but once it warms up the rpm still stays high then when i go do whatever i was doing and turn it on again the idle is low like it wants to turn off. and it just does that all the time. what can it be?
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    Well, the easiest thing to try first is to clean out the throttle body. Take off the air inlet duct to the throttle body, and clean the inside with a good, name brand carburetor cleaner. The best is the "throttle body cleaner" they sell at the Toyota dealership, it has some type of built in lubricant that lubes the throttle plate when opening and closing. And, it's only about a dollar more than the stuff they sell at the regular auto parts store.

    While cleaning it out, you'll want to put several shop rags below the throttle body to catch the dirt and cleaner that will surely spill out. Also, it will work better if you scrub it with an old toothbrush, too. Spray it, scrub it, spray it again...

    Also, know that you may have to reset your idle afterward.

    If that doesn't work, then there's a whole list of suspects...

    Idle Air Control Valve (if yours is an automatic)

    Cold start injector

    Cold start injector time switch

    Auxiliary Air Vale

    And possibly many others, just start with the basic stuff... clean it out.
  • doogieboydoogieboy Member Posts: 1
    hey folks just joined.
    i have 91 PU that for the last 2-3 years will not start if the temp goes below the 60's or 50's but when it warms up in the morning, it starts just fine (like normal).
    No doubt it's some sort of relay or temp sensitive device that will not allow the engine to start when the ambient temp falls.
    please help me resolve this burden.
  • masonmason Member Posts: 5
    :confuse: I have an 89 pickup 4cyl 4x4 efi and it will fire up and start for about 2 to 3 seconds then it will cut off and it does it continously. I have checked the fuse for the efi and it is fine. when the vehicle cuts off it makes a clicking noise in the cylinder with the fuel lines running into it by the dash on passenger side of truck it looks like an oil filter for a tractor. what should i do :confuse:
  • 85longbed85longbed Member Posts: 1
    I found that Nix 99 in Lynnwood, WA has quite a few good condition parts. You can find them on the web. What I would like to know is where to get NOS seatbelts. I have a 85 longbed with a regular cab in good condition and would like to purchase a couple of grey driverside seatbelts as prevention. Please let me know.
    Joel
  • 1950desoto1950desoto Member Posts: 1
    I am having a problem with alarm system. The door locks stopped working the alarm does not work and when I go to crank the engine the electrical system blinks, the dash lights, the park lights and the starter blinks on and off. I is just about impossible to get the truck to start with start blinking. What could be the problem?
  • nairbnairb Member Posts: 10
    I have a problem with my pickup. About 2 weeks ago my charging indicator
    light and parking brake light came on and within 2 days my truck died on the
    road and I needed to get a jump to get me another 2-4 miles and then another
    jump and so on until I got home. The next day I took my alt. in to get bench
    tested and it was o.k.. So I put it back in and the indicator lights were'nt on.
    I drove it around all day with no probs. then that night my dash lights went out
    and the indicators came back on and shortly after my truck died again and
    needed jumps. I know this must be an electrical prob. but I was hoping some-
    one could get me started in the right direction. I've already visually checked
    the wiring from the batt. and alt. but don't know where to go from there. The only
    vehicle I own so any help would be great.

    Thanks, Brian
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    If the alternator tests fine, then it's possibly the fuses in the charging system. I had this problem on my '95 once. A real PITA when you've replaced the alternator a few times, and things still aren't working. :mad:

    Check the large fuses in the under-hood fuse box. The largest one in there should be labeled "Alt" (alternator/80 Amps). In mine, it was starting to get corroded, and I suppose, not allowing the juice to flow properly and charge the battery effectively. Also check the other 2 large fuses, I can't remember what they're labeled, but one should be green, and the other red or pink. They were also starting to get corroded in mine, so I replaced them while I was in there.

    Note: That big "Alt" fuse is NOT a pull out. It is held in with screws from the underside. You'll have to take off the whole fuse block and get into it from underneath.

    It's also a good idea to disconnect the battery while doing this, and while it's disconnected, have it checked too. Make sure it's full of acid, and all the cells are good, etc...

    Good luck
  • stubby56stubby56 Member Posts: 3
    i have the 2nd automatic in this truck, starting to do the same as the first, real slow about going into reverse, is this a common problem or just mine and what would cause it
  • biffoonbiffoon Member Posts: 8
    I have a 1993 pickup and the fuse for the parking & dash lights keeps blowing. Any one have any ideas, I know its a short somewhere but, if some one can give me a spot to start looking that would be great. Unfortuneatly I need this fixed yesterday. Thanks in advance.
  • edwardglampeedwardglampe Member Posts: 1
    I have a '94 pickup w/ 4 cyl. 22r EFI engine and manual transmision. Sometimes, and it's getting worse, when I come to a stop, push in the clutch and sit there idling, there are few thing that happen. Either it will idle just fine @ around 1,000 or more rpms, or it will drop below and almost quit. The other thing is that it will spike or pulsate. Like I'm reving it up. Vrmmm, Vrmmmm, Vrmmmm, Vrmmmm....... up and down, up and down, up and down. Anyone have or had the same problem? Any solutions? :confuse:
  • pauliep13pauliep13 Member Posts: 44
    Might be worth a shot to check your idle speed. It should idle, with NO accessories running (A/C, anything electrical, radio, etc..) at around 750 RPM.

    I've had my idle set too high and it causes the surging you describe because the brake lights cause an alternator drain, as well as the brake booster causing an engine drain. So, the computer tries to rev the engine up a little, but gets confused, since it's already idling so high. Then, it drops the idle. All this causes the up and down idle you're experiencing.
  • hearsonhearson Member Posts: 1
    http://pws.gamewood.net/~hearson/
  • mgarner1mgarner1 Member Posts: 1
    Brian, I am having the same problem, check my alt and alt pass test, battery was good also, was the fuse your problem or what was the final fix for your problem, Mark
  • cameroneellscameroneells Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 pickup truck with a 4 cylinder 22RE engine, manual transmission, and 245,000 miles. I was experiencing the same thing and worse. Since you didn't mention it, I will assume the check engine light isn't on. If the check engine light is on, it will certainly help in the diagnosis. I was amazed at how poorly my truck was running before the check engine light came on. My problems were centered in the oxygen sensor and the air mass sensor. My truck has only one oxygen sensor, in front of the catalytic converter. According to my mechanic, this oxygen sensor controls fuel input to the electronic fuel injection. Its an easy part to replace assuming the mount on the exhaust pipe is still in place and the two bolts on the flange can be removed. I did this part myself. The mechanic replaced the air mass sensor. I wasn't familiar with this one, but I think its located in the box on top of the air cleaner. Short story, the problems are fixed and the truck is running great.
  • rylo31rylo31 Member Posts: 1
    i have a 1987 22r 4 wheel drive when driving down the road at night the headlights go out,if you flick the high beam back and forth they will eventually come back on,also when this happens on low beams high beam indicator comes on,is it headlight switch or relay?????
  • gary101757gary101757 Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    I am having trouble with my air conditioner. I put 2 cans of freon in it Sat. after evacuating the system. I replaced the expansion valve because of problems. I could see it was doing the same thing, so I did not add a 3rd.
    engine off, gauges hooked up. suction 90lbs. high side 100lbs. engine running, air on, -30 suction, high 100???
    Also I have a sight glass on the dryer and nothing is circulating.

    Thanks, Gary
  • mp88mp88 Member Posts: 1
    engine surges and runs rough,meter ck alternator engine at idle 12 volts max turn lights on voltage jumps around max 11 to min5-6 volts engine runs rough turn lights off engine runs smoother but idles high , push brake pedal down engine surges up and down alternator does like previously described. no ck engine light. changed alternator no help
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