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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
I have a '95 F-150 w/ a 5.0L, the pan started to leak. The paint blistered on the pan and it was all rusty underneath. The rusty metal was actually porous and the oil was started to leak pretty bad. I found it would be around $500-$600 to replace a $45 oil pan. I drained the oil, degreased the pan, and the scoured it with a wire wheel mounted on a drill to take off the rust. I put a liberal coating of JB-Weld on the pan the pan, let it set up, then primed and painted it too. I let it sit for a day to fully cure, before I put oil back in. It's been two years, and my patch is still holding. Still find an occaisional drop of oil on the driveway, but at the time I did the patch it was losing about a pint a day just sitting parked.
If you do go for the pan replacement, you may as well change out the oil pump and the screen while they're doing it. The extra labor and parts are cheap compared to jacking the engine.
second problem with the f350, first problem was loss of alternator without any manufacturer parts or after market parts available-without vehicle for 4 days.
thanks
I have the XLT extended cab with the 5.4 engine and to be honest it is a piece of crap. We have 300 HP but it feels like 200 HP
Pls send me info on the Gibson system. Is it a double exhaust?Where can I buy it? I don't know anything about the chip but the only thing I know is that you may void your warranty.
Thanks,
MG
White smoke out of tailpipe????????
Not good......................
of course, I grew up a broadcast brat, and if a module in a quad videotape failed, they shotgunned out all the similar parts... ie, if a bypass capacitor opened up, and you lost $8000 in revenue in this newscast from not getting the commercials on, how ya gonna explain the next capacitor going out next month when you had the chance to replace all of those parts at once. you lose the spots, you have to make them up, and that costs you the time spots for a second bunch. way far cheaper in your time and pain to do both head gaskets, check both heads out... you will save some labor from tearing it all down to get there, retiming the engine, and putting all the bolt-ons back on after doing the job.
Thanks for the info on the gas tank neck. Never thought about that. Though the gas gauge always seems to read full when I fill it. It's pretty consistent at the mileage that I've described. With the Gibson, I've improved about a mile per gallon. But, like I said, it's going to take some time to recover the cost of the exhaust. I'd only get it if you plan on keeping the truck for a lot of years. I'm sorry to hear that you're not happy with it. I try to keep in mind that my trucks 300 hp is not geared to take off like my mustang GT was. But, I've never had any problems hauling around the 5-6 thousand lb. trailer that I often used.
The Gibson exhaust, I got on-line from an outfit in Conneticut. Wish I could remember the name. custometrucks.com? i got the single pipe ($400). I like it, but it's not going to produce a big crack when you hit the accelerator. If you want more of that then go to the daul exhaust. Took four days to receive in NW Pennsylvania. Much nicer thant the original system. I would recommend the stainless. Again, if you're keeping the truck for a few years.
Only paid $300 for the exhaust. I added some other things that put my bill up to around $400. Sorry.
As I recently realized the oil pan is only the beginning of my problems. I purchased the truck from the village DPW and though it was a 92 it only has 47K miles on it.
When I went to pick it up, the truck wouldn't start, and determined it was the started. What a chore, the bolts were rustier and we had to cut the bolts.
Of course after we solved that problem we drove it around the block only to realize the transmission cooler line is leaking.
The oil pan seems like a big job, but my real concern is that I or someone else will have a real hard time taking the old bolts off, and lord only know what that will lead to.
Thanks again.
JT
Good luck!
I just started experiencing acceleration problems with my 2003 F250 SD 6.0 Diesel. I am not sure if it is a TURBO problem, Transmission problem or some type of electrical module etc. It does not happen all the time though. The symptom is that when I for example go to pass someone the RPM's increase but there is NO power. The speed of the vehicle SLOWLY increases. Does not seem like it is down shifting or that the TURBO is not engaging. Anyone hear of or experience similar problems? Vehicle has 39,000 miles. I am also NEW to Diesels.
Note: Really noticed it yesterday morning. However Yesterday afternoon when leaving work it operated just fine. Plenty of power. Again this morning, NO power and same problem experienced.
In addition they are poorly marked and the locked/auto position indicators
are not visible.
Hub is now making clicking noise while in auto position.
I have a 2001 F350 SD crew.
have you had any progress with FORD?
Are there after market hubs available an if so where and how much?
Warn F350 SD Hubs
If there's a lack of power and the engine bogs down it could well be related to your turbo's blow-off valve, among other things of course.
However, in threefoot's case, engine speed increases but there's no corresponding increase in speed or power, indicating that the transmission isn't translating that speed increase into anything useful.
Sounds like yours is a different problem, though no less annoying!
I have an exhaust leak at the rear of both manifolds- bad studs or whatever- needs to be remedied.
Now yes this is under powered unit as it is but for what I need for it is fine (besides my '03 f250 work diesel is problematic enough with warranty) but I still could use a power boost. What is the ideal exhaust setup for this thing now that I need to work it anyway? I do not know if my manifolds are cracked and junk but for possible alternatives I've been looking at aftermarket headers and I see they have them for 5.4L all over the place for excursions f-150,250 etc but having difficulties sourcing them for 2002 f-350s.
My question is-what is the ideal setup for this or at least adequate?
- Will the F250 header setup fit a 350 with no serious mods? -(remember 4x4)
If so, do I do headers with the Y pipe or pitch it and run dual to the back- with just the catalytic converter-no muffler. What could I expect with fuel economy? Will the hp increase by 10-15% as headers normally go? -does it affect sensors/ screw up computer etc?
-Should I just keep the stock setup and as I know I could spend 500$ and reprogram the computer altogether but I ain't loaded.
Do they make aftermarket K&N air intake filters for these as well- trouble finding those too (small town syndrome) any problems with computer/sensors also?
Thanks
reads out and refers to a fuel pump. But there are 2 tanks and 2 fuel pumps and the problem happens wether I use either tank. I would like to get this fixed as well. Any help would be appreciated. THANKS! :confuse:
Advice:
Stop throwing your good money down the drain replacing parts, take the truck to the dealer and have them read the codes with a reliable computer they will even flash your computer with the latest upgrades at your request for free. Don't forget to ask to check all recalls on your truck while is there.
Good luck,
The check valve system is built into the fuel pump. it's called a "shuttle valve," When the shuttle valve fails on one pump, it lets the other tank fill it up, when it's supposed to be checked. The shuttle valve is in the in tank fuel pump (FDM - fuel delivery module) for 90 to 96, according to my Haynes manual. Haynes says the damaged valve can't be repaired. You need to replace the whole fdm drop in unit it comes as one piece with everything.
When the fuel is cross flowing to the other fuel tank in your case to the front tank then the FDM shuttle valve is stuck open. Get a Haynes manual, it has step by step instructions. I did a search and found: "If you have a pump in each tank the problem is with the tank that is being filled while switched to the other one. If you are running on the rear tank and the front tank is being filled the problem is with the check valve in the front tank (stuck open). Replace the front pump unit. If the rear tank is being filled while running on the front tank, replace the rear pump unit." So it sounds like your rear check valve is the problem.
Please keep me posted on your outcome. Thanks! Jack
Sounds like you've got a Ford with a vaccuum leak. Vaccuum is used to pull in the shift on the fly front hubs and it's also used to control the position of the ventilation system. When you lose vaccuum the ventilation goes to the default position - defrost, and the 4x4 won't stay engaged.
Start schecking all the vaccuum lines and fittings. Look for cracked or brittle vaccuum hose(s), but also check all the little plastic vaccuum fittings - the connectors and the "T's" The leak could be anywhere, but I'd probably start looking down around the automatic hubs. There's a couple of tricky placed where vaccuum lines go through the firewall that can crack but are hard to see.
.
I just cruise in this vehicle and 220 mi a wk to work and back.
I know it is just a truck though.
thank you