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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions

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Comments

  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Just a long shot, but have you changed the tranny fluid lately? I'm assuming you have an auto.
  • steve289steve289 Member Posts: 4
    The tranny fluid was changed at about 25,000 it currently has 35,000 on it.
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    Well, the only thing that I can recommend at this point, not being able to look at the truck myself, is to try to isolate the vibration to the engine, tranny, or some ground speed related component.
  • turo19turo19 Member Posts: 4
    I am looking at a 1991 F-250 with the 5.8L V8 and 55K original miles. Does anyone have any feedback on this year truck and engine.
    Thanks
  • sprintrpssprintrps Member Posts: 62
    I live in Southern California, but will be relocating to the Midwest next year. I want to buy a new F150 but I want to know what is the difference between a California Emissions equipped F150 and a "49 state" version.
    Thanks for your help.
  • geodanversgeodanvers Member Posts: 5
    Head gasket was replaced on the right head and the engine and now has a clicking sound like a bad lifter. A ford mechanic told me that all 5.4 engines sound like mine. The enging was quiet before the head gasket went. So I walked into the show room and turned it in on a new 2004 What is Fords secret warranties?
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    They usually come up when you have a well known issue like that of your head gasket failure in Ford computers when you bring in your truck with that problem. However, if your head gasket did not fail because of the machining problem, which is Fords fault, then that does not make them responsible. The actual secret warranty I think can be found mentioned under some kind of a recall or TSB at Alldata.com. Anyway, sounds like you found a solution to the problem. Goodluck with the 2004, a very very sharp truck IMO:-)
  • carlf150carlf150 Member Posts: 1
    i have 1998 f-150 xlt ext cab 2wheel drive. automatic, 4.6v8. it has 86,000miles.this vehicle is like new. the transmission blew. they told me it was a palintine? cost me 2600. it has shaken my confidence in my truck . such low miles is there any recourse i can take. it is out of warrantyby 6mths. was checked by ford dealer under warranty and was told nothing was wrong. 6mths later no warranty and a $2600 bill. miles that i drove between ford dealership and blown transmission 1800miles please help
  • jrc346jrc346 Member Posts: 337
    Hmm, I know that what I am about to say wont make you the happiest F-150 owner I know, but there is not currently a secret warranty for your trucks transmission. The 4R70W transmission in your truck, has a reasonably good history, used in many of Fords vehicles. Have you ever changed your fluid? Fresh fluid (every 30K) is detrimental to Ford transmissions, and not doing fluid changes will pretty much guarantee you a failure. If you have done tranny fluid changes, then there are a number of other things that could cause a failure. These range from driving habits, to other contaminants or foreign objects in the fluid, or even a manufacturing defect that didn't creep up until 70,000miles down the road. The thing that I find odd about your story, is that your transmission was looked at 1,800 miles prior to failure. How did they check it? Drop the pan and look for metal shavings? Anyway, if they did drop the pan, and change the fluid, they may have not filled up the fluid properly, or re-attached the filter correctly. If it was just a visual external inspection, I don't know what they could accomplish with that. I guess they could check for leaks, but other then that, I don't see what else they could possibly do to confirm that you have a solid transmission.

    If your transmission is rebuilt by by a place that offers a warranty, then you shouldn't have anything to worry about. Drive your truck with confidence :-) Hope this helps a little?

    JRC
  • basobaso Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 Ford F150 Lariat also 3600 miles. Bought in Nov. 2003.
    the Check Engine Light and the engine display is on.
    I took it the dealer and they re calibrated the computer and said that I could drive it like this.
    They said that the engineers of FORD are aware of this a looking into a remedy. No time frame given as to when. Once the "Engine Fail Safe" mode is on, I reset the computer and the Fail Safe Mode goes off. But the rear end seems to be bouncing after this happens. The dealer let some air out of the tires, but this is still happening. Hope someone can give me some advice as to how to get rid of these situations.
  • jrekjjrekj Member Posts: 5
    My 87' F-150 is experiencing the same problem. The mechanic who works on my vehicles says that this is common but there is a solution. There is an aftermarket "plate" that can be installed to strengthen the firewall. The repair job is estimated to be around $300.
  • jrekjjrekj Member Posts: 5
    Well, old blue (87 F-150 that I bought new)has served me well for the past 17 years and its time to fix her up. (Side note, my wife says that I should just get rid of it. I told my wife I'd get rid of her first before I get rid of my truck!)The truck needs to first get the clutch fixed (due to the insufficient strength of the firewall that's common with late 80's Ford P/U's), and it's also needing a paint job. My issue is that the truck has 146K miles on the original engine and I'm wondering how long it will hold out. At 130K I had the oil pump replaced, and currently the oil pressure is very good. My mechanic says that good oil pressure is a sign that engine compression on all cylinders is still good as well. The truck though doesn't have near the same acceleration that it use to. So, should I precede and get the clutch fixed and paint it, and hope the engine holds out? Or is there another path that I should consider before I spend all that money on clutch/paint? All comments are welcomed. Thanks.
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    "My mechanic says that good oil pressure is a sign that engine compression on all cylinders is still good as well."

    Your first step should probably be to change your mechanic for one who understands the basic principles of an internal combustion engine.

    ;--)
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    i also have an 87.i had to replace the clutch "assy"a couple a years ago at around $450.it bound up from lack of use.the truck only has 75k miles.the paint on these were bad from day one.if you have the 300 straight six,you can expect to get more out of it.if yours is in good shape i would fix the clutch but forget the paint.
    front end parts wear out quickly on these trucks.
  • 0patience0patience Member Posts: 1,712
    mac24,
    I am in total agreement of your statement.
    I can't imagine a "real" mechanic making a statement like that.

    Oil pressure has nothing to do with the compression. You can still have excellent oil pressure and if the rings are bad or the valves are shot, then the compression will still be bad.
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    purchase of used 2002/2003 or new 2004 F150...I am aware that the old design was 2002/2003 and in 2004 both designs still exist, so the styling, per se, does not matter to me...looking for an F150 Extended Cab (is that the Super Cab?) with the shortest bed (about 6 feet, I assume), stepside bed (I Like the narrower rear view of the stepside, plus it is easier to step up and reach into the best from the side, as I am rather short)...I am seeking a fairly well equipped truck, 2WD, 5.4L engine, auto trans, either XLT or Lariat trim levels...

    anyone familiar with these trucks may be able to save me time, since sometimes salespeople do not know what interior equipment may or not be available, especially on used trucks...

    Does the XLT/Lariat trim level come equipped with:
    1. power adjustable pedals
    2. 6 way (or more) driver's seat
    3. power passenger seat
    4. (most important) driver's adjustable lumbar support (if yes, manual or push-button, like the Explorer)
    5. (almost as important as #4) passenger adjustable lumbar support

    Chevy Silverado, at the LT trim level, has 10 way power seats (including power recline) for BOTH driver and passenger, and push-button inflatable
    lumbar supports for BOTH driver and passenger... can the Ford be similarly equipped (I guess I could ask can the Dodge Ram be similarly equipped, too, but I am more concerned with the F150 right now)

    Is anyone familiar with F150 trim levels on an extended cab to be of help???...thanks in advance

    Bob
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm not sure if you are entertaining used because of cost, but I would suggest looking at a new F150 Heritage model. These new might be just a couple of thousand more that a used 2003 in excellent condition. Then you'd get a new vehicle warranty.

    Try the link below:

    http://www.fordvehicles.com/trucks/f150heritage/index.asp?redir=t- rue&bhcp=1&bhfv=6&bhqt=1&bhsh=768&bhsw=1024&a- mp;bhsp=283789br=IE&ver=6&pfrm=Win98&consp=283789

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    and the thought is good, but, if I read it right, the only engine available in the heritage is the 4.6L and I want the 5.4L...also, no matter how I read the description of the option list, they list captain's chairs and all that, but no mention anywhere of adjustable lumbar support, driver or passenger...that does not mean it does not have it, but someone did not think enough to list it as a feature, whereas the GM info does...it also appears to me that the heritage is mostly a stripped vehicle for those who just want a work truck, and not much more...I may be stuck with a 2004 new style, but maybe a 2002/2003 XLT or Lariat may have the seats I want with an engine larger than 4.6L
  • rayval43rayval43 Member Posts: 4
    I have a 1993 Ford F-250 with a 460 ci. engine. It has 168,000 miles, runs excellant, but the gas mileage is horrible! Does any one know what kind of mileage I should be getting? It's got to be more than 6 MPG! What can I do to improve the gas mileage? Any problem areas I should look at? Any help would be greatly appreiated! Ray
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Rayval,

    Yeah, 6 miles per gallon sounds pretty bad but in all fairness that large of an engine in a 3/4 ton truck I wouldn't expect a heck of a lot more. It may be low for that year and engine, but I would bet they weren't ever much better than 12 MPG on the highway.

    We had a Chevy "heavy half" with a 350 V8 automatic that never got better than 14 in it's entire life, and usually did no better than 10-11. At least you have a real engine in that F250.

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • busman01busman01 Member Posts: 46
    I own a 2003 Lariat Stepside. It has lumbar support on both captains seats (standard w/the captains seats). To acquire a 2003 matching your configuration, you might put out a request for a quote from a dealer on the internet (see Edmunds for this). Your observations are correct on the Heritage model. My brochures on both the 2003 & 2004 answer most of your questions you ask. If you can get one on each model they might help.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    Just a thought on the new versus old F150 purchase. Not to disparage the older vehicles, but look at the Insurance Institute offset crash data. Older Model F150 in Subercab configuration experienced passenger cage failure in offset crash, while new style '04 F150 received their highest rating for same test.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    If a used vehicle is okay with you, start looking now. Spring time usually brings out the used truck buyers and used car lot stock may not linger as long.

    A suggestion: try to find out if the equipment you need was based on the model version or optional equipment. This way if you know for example that all Lariats had the lumbar support, you could narrow your search a little.

    Good luck.

    Dusty
  • mac24mac24 Member Posts: 3,910
    Considering the mileage it's not an unexpected consumption figure for that particular engine.

    However, if it hasn't been done recently, a 'tune up' may well provide an extra couple of mpg. By 'tune up' I mean new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, pcv, and check the timing.

    With the current price of gas it's probably worth the cost of the parts. Bear in mind that when new, your truck probably never got better than 10/12mpg with that engine (which is a good one to have if you're working the truck!).

    Good luck.
  • rayval43rayval43 Member Posts: 4
    Well that pretty much answers my question. I have tuned it up and replaced just about everything I can think of. It runs like a champ, only burns 1 qt. of oil every 5000 miles, and has no oil leaks. It does not appear to have ever had any major work done to it. I was wondering what kind of mileage it got when it was new, and you answered that question. Thank you for your input, it is greatly appreiated. Ray.
  • rayval43rayval43 Member Posts: 4
    Dusty..

    Thanks for your input. I had a feeling that I was lucky to get the mileage I am getting. I used to have my own small land scape business, and I pulled a bobcat and trailer with it. Pulling weight was 10,000lbs. It pulled fine, but now I don't have it anymore. As much as I like this truck, I guess I am going to have to sell it. At $2.05 a gallon of gas, I can't afford to drive this truck. I will look for a half ton Ford or Chevy super cab 4-wheel drive for better mileage. Your input is greatly appreciated Ray
  • marsha7marsha7 Member Posts: 3,703
    as I knew the folks here would have better info than asking the average salesperson...now I am better armed when I walk into the dealership...

    Bob
  • slamphere1slamphere1 Member Posts: 2
    I have an 02 f350 with power mirrors and would like to put heated mirrors in it. Does any one know where the heater switch is in the later models?
  • gdrileygdriley Member Posts: 1
    Help! I am trying to replace my oil pump on my 87 f150 and I have done it by the book(service manual) and cannot get the oil pan and pump out. Put 1" blocks under motor mounts and even tried raising the trans(borg/warner 4sp)any help from any who have do this whould be great. I'm trying not to remove tranny and bell housing, but don't see any other way. Are the manuals Wrong!
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    i have an 87 f150 w/power steering.suddenly one evening,the seal blew half way out of its bore on the steering gear shaft.prior to that i had no leaks at the pitman arm shaft.does anyone have any suggestions before i take it apart.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Because of the year it sounds like you have a Saginaw-built gear box. The sector shaft seals can be tricky to install, much less removing the old one. Special tools are required to do the job correctly. In addition, you may have a worn sector shaft itself, not an uncommon problem on that year F-150.

    My recommendation is to price out a rebuilt gear box. Believe me, replacing the sector shaft seal and possibly any worn parts is more work than the price of a rebuilt.

    Dusty
  • crankshaftcrankshaft Member Posts: 105
    thanks for the comments.i was begining to think the same route.
  • fordgirlfordgirl Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1998 for f-150 with a lot of serious problems that I have been dealing with lately. I am starting to think I have an electrical problem. I bought the lemon check and nothing showed up but it seems that my truck has been submerged in water at some point in its life. So my question is...How do I fix my wipers?, they dont work at all. They used to work speraticly. and i noticed that when my interior lights dont work that my wipers dont either.(i know they arent related in any way but im telling you thats what happens)All the fuses for the lights and wipers are ok.So do i need a new motor? HOw do i tell someone please help me
    Im only 21 and this is my first truck and its sucks so please help
    thanks crystal
  • georgie52joshgeorgie52josh Member Posts: 2
    i own a 2002 Ford F 150 Supercrew 4 x 4 with ESOF.
    My problem is that the shift knob physically moves from 2H to 4H (and sometimes even to 4L)with =no effort on my part or any touching of the shift knob.
    I have been to my Ford dealer twice- about a month ago they replaced the GEM module and the second time (2 weeks ago) the Ford dealer replaced the shift knob itself. The problem still repeated itself earlier this week (after both repair attempts) I am getting frustrated!!!!
    Suggestions????????
    georgie52josh
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    FordGirl,
      Sorry about your problems. A few thoughts, and questions. Are the wipers and the interior lights on the same fuse in your truck, or are they two different circuits?

    Anyway, rule out all the simple stuff first. Check your fuses mechanically. I had a problem on one vehicle where the fuse wasn't blown, but the clip in the panel wasn't holding it well. The circuit would work sporadically depending on how bumpy the road was that I went over. Turn wipers or lights on, try wiggling the fuse and wiring harnesses, if things come on momentarily you'll have a good clue. Another time I had a circuit stop working, and visually the fuse looked fine, yet when I checked it with an Ohm meter, the fuse was open.
      You mention that you think that the vehicle was submerged. Are there water marks, or corrosion? Even if it wasn't, water could still be at the root of the problem. If there's a leak around the windshield, water could be dripping down behind the dashboard, wreaking havoc on your electrical system and electronics. Windshield leaks have been a bone of contention with some Superduty (F250/350) trucks - causes weird electrical symptoms. Look closely at the fuse panel, and wiring connectors, is there any corrosion or staining evident? If there is, and it isn't too bad you can clean it up yourself, - Q-tips, rubbing alchohol clean up dirt. If there's corrosion, you can clean electrical contacts with fine sand paper, or an emory stick. If corrosion is bad, then you may need replacement parts.
       One other thing, F150 has an electrical controller called a G.E.M. (General Electronics Module?). They are kind of the master controller for the vehicle, handles lights, turn signals, wipers, flashers, etc. When these start to go, again you get weird electrical behavior. Ford Rangers, and Explorers from 5-6 years back had a rash of GEM problems.
       There are alot of other things can cause your problems. You could just have a bad switch, if you bypass it, you could at least see if you wiper motor is okay. You could have a bad electrical ground somewhere. Unfortunately, you'd probably need a shop manual on how to diagnose and troubleshoot these type of things.

    Good luck. I know electrical gremlins can drive you nuts.
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    I have been looking for some time now for a one ton 4 wheel drive truck with a crew cab to use to drive personally, as well as on the farm for towing cow trailers, driving through pastures, plowed fields, woods, and so forth. Being frugal, having not bought a truck in--well--a number of years--, and after looking for some time I am still somewhat numbed by the prices I've encountered on even used ones. I had been adamant about a diesel, but have seen a price about $12,000.00 lower on a low mileage, used truck with a V-10. I know it won't pull quite the load a diesel will, and certainly won't get the fuel mileage a diesel will, but I can buy a lot of gas for the difference.

    My question is, how good is the V-10, how strong is it actually towing, and what experiences have any of you had with them? I wouldn't expect but around 12 miles per gallon, if that, on one. Anyone out there who can help?

    Thanks for listening.
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    I went into the archives of Town Hall and looked at the V-10 discussions there. Some are several years old, but there seems to be no major problem mentioned and generally the impression of owners appears to be good, other than the gas mileage, which seemed to be around what I had anticipated. Does anyone have any information on the newer ones that I should consider before buying one?

    I appreciate any help or information anyone can offer.
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    I have an '01 F350 V10, 4x4,long bed, with a 3.73 rear end, that has about 29K on the odometer. I have had absolutely no problems whatsoever with this engine. The truck gets used for myriad different things. It tows a 30' travel trailer that's about 9K lbs wet. It tows another trailer that's about 11K when I borrow a skid steer. Truck has more than ample power for either of these tasks. (Though, I do live practically at sea level, and have not towed up any mountains bigger than Alleganys and the Catskills.) I've also had 4,000 lbs plus in the bed, and have been able to safely merge onto the highway, with out having to floor the throttle. I surprise little "Ricer" cars from a stoplight with the acceleration of this motor especially considering it's pushing a 7000 lb+ truck - it will chirp the tires on first two upshifts when pushed hard.
        There are three problems I've heard of on the V10. First is that on '99, thru '01 models the cylinder head only has about 6 threads to hold the spark plugs in place. If the plugs are torqued too tightly, they can deform the threads, and engine can spit out a plug - have heard it happen on a few higher mileage engines. Plugs are supposed to last for 100k miles between changes, but my mechanic told me that to avoid the problem, the plugs should be taken out, and retorqued every 25-30K miles. Plug removal is a bit tedious, because there are individual coil modules on each plug, and some of plugs towards rear of motor are awkward to get to, resulting in some skinned knuckles. But cheaper than having the head removed to put a heli-coil in for a new plug.
       Second V10 problem is noise that comes from the y-pipe in the exhaust header at certain engine speeds. Noise is called "the Flutter." Basically its a resonance that occurs in the exhaust stream at about 2500-3000 rpm. Almost makes motor sound like a diesel. Ford changed the y-pipe in early '01. There's also a heat shield near this pipe that contributes to this noise, it either touched or resonates with the y-pipe. Exhaust flutter is only an annoyance, and causes no damage. After mid '01 Ford appears to have solved this.
        Third, is called piston slap. Very early models of 5.4 V8, 6.8 V10 had this on cold statup. Piston was not bored out to proper spec - piston banged top of cylinder head until engine fully warmed up. Supposedly, wasn't a fatal problem, but Ford apparently replaced all of these motors when owners complained. Only happened very early in '99 model year.
         Power of engine is awesome. I love to put my foot into it. Drawback is fuel consumption. On the highway, I can get around 12-13 mpg. 14 MPG is possible at a constant 55 mph, while going down hill, with a 30 mph tailwind, while drafting behind a tractor-trailer. Above 70 mph, the aerodynamics of the truck makes it really get thirsty! City driving is usually ~10 mpg. Towing gets painful. With RV, I can get 9-10 mpg if I drive like my Great Grandmother. Towing the skid steer it's like 7-8 mpg. Fuel tank on long bed holds 39 gallons - a fill up at $2.25/gallon is excruciatingly painful. I think a short bed only has a 26 gal. tank. (This truck is not my daily driver, so I can live with the fuel cost.) You can also get a V10 with 4.30:1 rear end, this would give more torque for towing - with ~1 mpg mileage penalty.
       Basically, if you don't tow heavy all of the time, where you'd need the better mileage that a diesel would give, the V10 is an excellent alternative. You have more HP than Powerstroke, and still get about 80% of the diesel's torque; without having to worry about diesel fuel and maintenance issues, glow plugs, low temperature starting, etc.
      V10 with the Ford Superduty chassis is a great truck. You can beat the snot out of it every day, and it will take it in stride.
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    Sounds as if the V-10 would do what I need a larger truck for very nicely and at less purchase cost. Also sounds as if it would behoove me to look for one from 2001 up. You mentioned the price of gas you use in yours. Does that engine require midgrade or higher gas, or does it run on low grade?

    Thanks for the help!
  • wpalkowskiwpalkowski Member Posts: 493
    You're welcome.

    Runs on regular unleaded in stock form. Tried premium a couple of time when towing in hilly areas, but didn't see any difference in power for the extra money.
    One added plus for '01 and newer V10: Ford bumped up power of engines by about 20 HP and ~40 ft-lbs of torque over the '99, and 00 engines.
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    I think I'll go with the V-10. Diesels are great for the user that hauls heavy loads frequently, even more so if it is over long distances. If I felt I could justify the additional cost of a diesel as I will be using it I would opt to go with one, but I will be towing the heaviest loads just a few times a year over a relatively short distance, and not driving the truck far when I use it unloaded, which I don't think is good for a diesel to begin with.

    Thanks again for the input.
  • tflotflo Member Posts: 3
    I have a 99 F-350 SuperDuty diesel truck. Recently I've noticed that when I drive it hard with a trailer in tow, I get a really bad vibration when I come to an idle. I took it to the dealer and they said I needed an oil change (which it was time for). They said it had no other codes other than oil airation. Even after the oil change the problem still persists, I can drive along 75mph and not really notice any problem, when I decelerate and come to an idle the engine is missing badly and when I take off again. Once I get the RPM's up you cannot feel the miss anymore. When I'm driving with no load, I have not noticed the problem, only under loaded conditions. Any ideas what could be causing this?
  • bmaigebmaige Member Posts: 140
    When did you change your fuel filter last? And have you had your fuel lift pump (assuming they still have those) checked? I had a diesel tractor that started skipping at idle, changed the fuel filter, and it ran like a sewing machine. And if you have a mechanical fuel lift pump, which is the same thing as a fuel pump on a gas engine, if it is beginning to go bad it could do the same thing. It pushes fuel from the level of the tank up to the injector pump. I had a Ford diesel van years ago that would stop running and when I checked the fuel filter it was not full. I changed that pump and that solved that problem.
  • teacupteacup Member Posts: 1
    96 f-250 with captains chairs can anyone tell me how to remove the arm rests,I need to put set covers on. thanks teacup
  • mullins87mullins87 Member Posts: 959
    I've got a very similar situation with my truck, also a '99 F-350. My problem started out with some bad fuel, it had water in it. I took it to a mechanic and two injectors had to be replaced due to water damage. "bmaige" mentioned a lift pump, our trucks don't have one, per se. Ford has an inline electric fuel pump that supplies fuel to the injectors, much like those found in a gasser, with no mechanical injector pump mounted on the engine. The fuel is actually injected via a high pressure oil system, i.e. hydraulics, that depressed the plunger in each injector to force the fuel into the cylinder. That is why the dealership told you an oil change would fix it. Any aeration of the oil will cause drivability problems.

    My suggestion to you, unless you are somewhat competent under the hood and don't mind a challenge and have a deep wallet to shell out for diagnostic equipment, is to find a good diesel mechanic. Either your dealer doesn't have one or he/she was never consulted about your truck. There are only a few places in the injection system where a mechanical failure can occur, the majority of the injection system is software/computer driven. That's why I mentioned the diagnostic equipment.

    I guarantee a good diesel mechanic will be able to find the problem relatively quickly.
  • ajhdownerajhdowner Member Posts: 1
    I just bought a 90 F-150 XLT w/ 302 8cyl. and if I have the A/C on when I come to a stop the idle drops and it dies. It does fine while you are moving. And also, some times when I go to start it, it will turn over for about 10 seconds and not hit a lick and then I can let of the switch and hit it again and it fires right up. From what I have read in the service manual the only thing I can come up with is a bad EGR valve but I wanted a second opinion before I go and buy one, any information will be greatly appreciated. Thank You
  • dentnfenderdentnfender Member Posts: 1
    92 F-150 with 5.8 V-8 with 121,000. Normal idle in gear maybe 800. Idle will suddenly raise to may 1300 in gear and in nuetral over 2000. Thought it might be linkage, but it happened at a stoplight suddenly yesterday. Assume then it is a sensor or perhaps vaccuum. Believe it to be a failing sensor of some sort that might be affected by heat, as the problem takes 10-15 minutes to appear. Any items stand out from past experience?
  • tflotflo Member Posts: 3
    Thanks, I've been looking for a good private mechanic. I was thinking it was either the injectors, ECU, or CAM sensor. At any rate, thanks for the feedback. TFLO
  • bigfootbigfoot Member Posts: 1
    #1 of 2 brake- gas pedal seperation by bigfoot Jun 27, 2004 (10:15 pm)

    Owner 2004 F-350 super 5.4L Auto tran.
    Experiencing an occasonal horrifing problem.
    Because the Brake Pedal is so close to the gas pedal (2.5in)seperation it is very easy for your right foot,(especially one wearing work boots), to overlap the gas pedal and press it simultaniously. Has anyone experienced this situation?
  • mwfordmwford Member Posts: 1
    Hello

    I'm looking to buy a 94' F 350 turbo deisel. It has 288 K miles on it. Will it still go another 100 K miles strong? The truck is clean and well cared for. A decent price of 6 K. Any comments would be most helpful. Any problems with this trucks engine? or mechanics I need to know about??

    Thanks
This discussion has been closed.