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2000 Ford F-250 Super Duty Problems and Solutions
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Comments
Thanks
Thanks for your help.
If your transmission is rebuilt by by a place that offers a warranty, then you shouldn't have anything to worry about. Drive your truck with confidence :-) Hope this helps a little?
JRC
the Check Engine Light and the engine display is on.
I took it the dealer and they re calibrated the computer and said that I could drive it like this.
They said that the engineers of FORD are aware of this a looking into a remedy. No time frame given as to when. Once the "Engine Fail Safe" mode is on, I reset the computer and the Fail Safe Mode goes off. But the rear end seems to be bouncing after this happens. The dealer let some air out of the tires, but this is still happening. Hope someone can give me some advice as to how to get rid of these situations.
Your first step should probably be to change your mechanic for one who understands the basic principles of an internal combustion engine.
;--)
front end parts wear out quickly on these trucks.
I am in total agreement of your statement.
I can't imagine a "real" mechanic making a statement like that.
Oil pressure has nothing to do with the compression. You can still have excellent oil pressure and if the rings are bad or the valves are shot, then the compression will still be bad.
anyone familiar with these trucks may be able to save me time, since sometimes salespeople do not know what interior equipment may or not be available, especially on used trucks...
Does the XLT/Lariat trim level come equipped with:
1. power adjustable pedals
2. 6 way (or more) driver's seat
3. power passenger seat
4. (most important) driver's adjustable lumbar support (if yes, manual or push-button, like the Explorer)
5. (almost as important as #4) passenger adjustable lumbar support
Chevy Silverado, at the LT trim level, has 10 way power seats (including power recline) for BOTH driver and passenger, and push-button inflatable
lumbar supports for BOTH driver and passenger... can the Ford be similarly equipped (I guess I could ask can the Dodge Ram be similarly equipped, too, but I am more concerned with the F150 right now)
Is anyone familiar with F150 trim levels on an extended cab to be of help???...thanks in advance
Bob
Try the link below:
http://www.fordvehicles.com/trucks/f150heritage/index.asp?redir=t- rue&bhcp=1&bhfv=6&bhqt=1&bhsh=768&bhsw=1024&a- mp;bhsp=283789br=IE&ver=6&pfrm=Win98&consp=283789
Regards,
Dusty
Yeah, 6 miles per gallon sounds pretty bad but in all fairness that large of an engine in a 3/4 ton truck I wouldn't expect a heck of a lot more. It may be low for that year and engine, but I would bet they weren't ever much better than 12 MPG on the highway.
We had a Chevy "heavy half" with a 350 V8 automatic that never got better than 14 in it's entire life, and usually did no better than 10-11. At least you have a real engine in that F250.
Best regards,
Dusty
A suggestion: try to find out if the equipment you need was based on the model version or optional equipment. This way if you know for example that all Lariats had the lumbar support, you could narrow your search a little.
Good luck.
Dusty
However, if it hasn't been done recently, a 'tune up' may well provide an extra couple of mpg. By 'tune up' I mean new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, air filter, pcv, and check the timing.
With the current price of gas it's probably worth the cost of the parts. Bear in mind that when new, your truck probably never got better than 10/12mpg with that engine (which is a good one to have if you're working the truck!).
Good luck.
Thanks for your input. I had a feeling that I was lucky to get the mileage I am getting. I used to have my own small land scape business, and I pulled a bobcat and trailer with it. Pulling weight was 10,000lbs. It pulled fine, but now I don't have it anymore. As much as I like this truck, I guess I am going to have to sell it. At $2.05 a gallon of gas, I can't afford to drive this truck. I will look for a half ton Ford or Chevy super cab 4-wheel drive for better mileage. Your input is greatly appreciated Ray
Bob
My recommendation is to price out a rebuilt gear box. Believe me, replacing the sector shaft seal and possibly any worn parts is more work than the price of a rebuilt.
Dusty
Im only 21 and this is my first truck and its sucks so please help
thanks crystal
My problem is that the shift knob physically moves from 2H to 4H (and sometimes even to 4L)with =no effort on my part or any touching of the shift knob.
I have been to my Ford dealer twice- about a month ago they replaced the GEM module and the second time (2 weeks ago) the Ford dealer replaced the shift knob itself. The problem still repeated itself earlier this week (after both repair attempts) I am getting frustrated!!!!
Suggestions????????
georgie52josh
Sorry about your problems. A few thoughts, and questions. Are the wipers and the interior lights on the same fuse in your truck, or are they two different circuits?
Anyway, rule out all the simple stuff first. Check your fuses mechanically. I had a problem on one vehicle where the fuse wasn't blown, but the clip in the panel wasn't holding it well. The circuit would work sporadically depending on how bumpy the road was that I went over. Turn wipers or lights on, try wiggling the fuse and wiring harnesses, if things come on momentarily you'll have a good clue. Another time I had a circuit stop working, and visually the fuse looked fine, yet when I checked it with an Ohm meter, the fuse was open.
You mention that you think that the vehicle was submerged. Are there water marks, or corrosion? Even if it wasn't, water could still be at the root of the problem. If there's a leak around the windshield, water could be dripping down behind the dashboard, wreaking havoc on your electrical system and electronics. Windshield leaks have been a bone of contention with some Superduty (F250/350) trucks - causes weird electrical symptoms. Look closely at the fuse panel, and wiring connectors, is there any corrosion or staining evident? If there is, and it isn't too bad you can clean it up yourself, - Q-tips, rubbing alchohol clean up dirt. If there's corrosion, you can clean electrical contacts with fine sand paper, or an emory stick. If corrosion is bad, then you may need replacement parts.
One other thing, F150 has an electrical controller called a G.E.M. (General Electronics Module?). They are kind of the master controller for the vehicle, handles lights, turn signals, wipers, flashers, etc. When these start to go, again you get weird electrical behavior. Ford Rangers, and Explorers from 5-6 years back had a rash of GEM problems.
There are alot of other things can cause your problems. You could just have a bad switch, if you bypass it, you could at least see if you wiper motor is okay. You could have a bad electrical ground somewhere. Unfortunately, you'd probably need a shop manual on how to diagnose and troubleshoot these type of things.
Good luck. I know electrical gremlins can drive you nuts.
My question is, how good is the V-10, how strong is it actually towing, and what experiences have any of you had with them? I wouldn't expect but around 12 miles per gallon, if that, on one. Anyone out there who can help?
Thanks for listening.
I appreciate any help or information anyone can offer.
There are three problems I've heard of on the V10. First is that on '99, thru '01 models the cylinder head only has about 6 threads to hold the spark plugs in place. If the plugs are torqued too tightly, they can deform the threads, and engine can spit out a plug - have heard it happen on a few higher mileage engines. Plugs are supposed to last for 100k miles between changes, but my mechanic told me that to avoid the problem, the plugs should be taken out, and retorqued every 25-30K miles. Plug removal is a bit tedious, because there are individual coil modules on each plug, and some of plugs towards rear of motor are awkward to get to, resulting in some skinned knuckles. But cheaper than having the head removed to put a heli-coil in for a new plug.
Second V10 problem is noise that comes from the y-pipe in the exhaust header at certain engine speeds. Noise is called "the Flutter." Basically its a resonance that occurs in the exhaust stream at about 2500-3000 rpm. Almost makes motor sound like a diesel. Ford changed the y-pipe in early '01. There's also a heat shield near this pipe that contributes to this noise, it either touched or resonates with the y-pipe. Exhaust flutter is only an annoyance, and causes no damage. After mid '01 Ford appears to have solved this.
Third, is called piston slap. Very early models of 5.4 V8, 6.8 V10 had this on cold statup. Piston was not bored out to proper spec - piston banged top of cylinder head until engine fully warmed up. Supposedly, wasn't a fatal problem, but Ford apparently replaced all of these motors when owners complained. Only happened very early in '99 model year.
Power of engine is awesome. I love to put my foot into it. Drawback is fuel consumption. On the highway, I can get around 12-13 mpg. 14 MPG is possible at a constant 55 mph, while going down hill, with a 30 mph tailwind, while drafting behind a tractor-trailer. Above 70 mph, the aerodynamics of the truck makes it really get thirsty! City driving is usually ~10 mpg. Towing gets painful. With RV, I can get 9-10 mpg if I drive like my Great Grandmother. Towing the skid steer it's like 7-8 mpg. Fuel tank on long bed holds 39 gallons - a fill up at $2.25/gallon is excruciatingly painful. I think a short bed only has a 26 gal. tank. (This truck is not my daily driver, so I can live with the fuel cost.) You can also get a V10 with 4.30:1 rear end, this would give more torque for towing - with ~1 mpg mileage penalty.
Basically, if you don't tow heavy all of the time, where you'd need the better mileage that a diesel would give, the V10 is an excellent alternative. You have more HP than Powerstroke, and still get about 80% of the diesel's torque; without having to worry about diesel fuel and maintenance issues, glow plugs, low temperature starting, etc.
V10 with the Ford Superduty chassis is a great truck. You can beat the snot out of it every day, and it will take it in stride.
Thanks for the help!
Runs on regular unleaded in stock form. Tried premium a couple of time when towing in hilly areas, but didn't see any difference in power for the extra money.
One added plus for '01 and newer V10: Ford bumped up power of engines by about 20 HP and ~40 ft-lbs of torque over the '99, and 00 engines.
Thanks again for the input.
My suggestion to you, unless you are somewhat competent under the hood and don't mind a challenge and have a deep wallet to shell out for diagnostic equipment, is to find a good diesel mechanic. Either your dealer doesn't have one or he/she was never consulted about your truck. There are only a few places in the injection system where a mechanical failure can occur, the majority of the injection system is software/computer driven. That's why I mentioned the diagnostic equipment.
I guarantee a good diesel mechanic will be able to find the problem relatively quickly.
Owner 2004 F-350 super 5.4L Auto tran.
Experiencing an occasonal horrifing problem.
Because the Brake Pedal is so close to the gas pedal (2.5in)seperation it is very easy for your right foot,(especially one wearing work boots), to overlap the gas pedal and press it simultaniously. Has anyone experienced this situation?
I'm looking to buy a 94' F 350 turbo deisel. It has 288 K miles on it. Will it still go another 100 K miles strong? The truck is clean and well cared for. A decent price of 6 K. Any comments would be most helpful. Any problems with this trucks engine? or mechanics I need to know about??
Thanks