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Dodge Durango Maintenance and Repair



  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    I went to the dealer and got PCM print/outs. From what I could determine, the black connector on the pcm CAV 4 is the sensor ground. CAV 24 in the3 black connector is the oxygen sensor 1/1 signal. I decided to run a new ground.
    Cut the wire on the harness side by the o2, colored black and light blue. Soldered a new wire to this wire.Went to the black connector on the pcm and counted four wires from the bottom left side,which should be black and light blue. I spliced the other remaining end of the new wire at this point. Reset the code. After about 20 minutes, the code P0171 came up again. Still having the same problem. I am at wits end also. Afraid it's going to be a new harness that i cant install and will be costly.
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    I have not investigated this particular issue on my Durango, so I may be off base here, but if you are absolutely sure that you eliminated the ground connection that is common to the PS pressure switch with a clean ground wire, then the only thing it could be is that the O2 sensor went bad as a result of being shorted out. If that is the case, you may want to disconnect that O2 sensor and see if the engine behavior changes. If it does not, then the sensor may be bad.
  • durangofandurangofan Posts: 21
    One must replace all 4 wires. When I cut my O2 (4 wires) about 8" back, the outside coating on the wires just about slide off, due to the amount of power steering fluid within them.

    I will review my new connections tonight and advise you on my finding. Durango has been out of town the last couple of days.

  • Went to parts store and picked up a Throttle position sensor ($38.00) and replaced it. Problem gone. Many thanks!
  • doliver02doliver02 Posts: 1
    We just replaced the head gaskets on 1999 dodge durango. After putting everything back together and rewiring, when we crank the vehicle, the horn blows, the wipers are going, the headlights are on, and door locks will not work. The horn/ A/C clutch fuse keeps blowing. Any suggestions? Thank you!!!
  • kickboxerkickboxer Posts: 4
    I have the same problem...I have a 2001 Durango and it often idles erratically every so often. I have 90,000 miles on it and it doesn't occur all the time, mostly in cold weather or if I don't let the engine warm up before taking off. I haven'thad it looked at because it happens only every once in a while. I just figured it had high miles.
  • kickboxerkickboxer Posts: 4
    My 2001 Durango sometimes downshifts into 1st gear from 3rd when I'm coming to a stop, in addition to a loud clunking sound. I'm not sure if it could be the Rear Axle or something internal in the transmission. Any suggestions?
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    Have you had a chance to check your connections? I dont get the P0171 code now, but I do get p0132 and p0135. Maybe my new sensor is already messed up. I installed it before i realized my steering switch was bad and causing the problem.
  • I have a 1999 Durango, 5.9L with the big axle ratio. I regularly haul a 2-horse trailer with it. Last year experienced blown fuses & had trailer re-wired and plug-in on the Durango replaced. Problems continued, with the addition of stalling & hot AC. 15 June 05 at 98144 miles I had to replace the PCM at a cost of $894. Recently experienced stalling during hot temps. Took to dealer who found no problem. Stalled on the way home from dealer. Took back on week later, 15 July 06 at 114140 miles. They decided it was a faulty PCM again. This time it cost $1009 to repair. Was told the 12-month warranty on the PCM expired. I would think that a part like this should last a bit longer than 12 months and 16,000 miles. Also don't understand why the labor charge went from $144 in 2005 to $408 in 2006. Think the mechanic in 2006 knew what he was doing? What would you expect to pay for this repair? Asked for explanation of why this keeps happening. Was told this is a common part failure caused by vibration (don't all cars vibrate?) or improperly jumping, or anything that may cause a power surge. Am I unreasonable to be frustrated by this?
  • scotsboyscotsboy Posts: 2
    I've been having intermittent problems with my 2000 Durango 4.7, difficult to start in hot weather. Yesterday, it just suddenly stalled and died on the highway, couldn't get it re-started. No check-engine light, no error codes being generated, but 4 of the monitors (catalyst monitor, oxygen sensor, oxygen sensor heater, evaporative system) are listed as being "incomplete" by my scanner (presumably because the vehicle has not started). I already checked battery, plugs, but all in good condition as regularly serviced. As no error codes are generated, I'm thinking it may be the PCM (as there obviously is a major problem). Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks!
  • Try the camshaft position sensor. It failed on ours three times and the symptoms were same as yours, failure ot start or stalling and unable to restart.
  • Hi. My 2004 is doing the same thing. Weird to see the dash lights and locks go wild when I open the door. The battery died today and attempting to start only brings severe clicking noise from the engine bay.

    Did you get a solution?
  • kac0kac0 Posts: 1
    I was driving yesterday and my ABS and brake dash lights came on. The brakes seemed fine and all so I kept going. Then, my speedometer went to zero and hardly ever registers now, only when I am going 50-60. I found a few posts that said to replace the speed sensor. I went to advance auto parts and the only sensor that they had was on the tranny. I replaced that one and the problem is still around. Do I have to replace the sensor on top of the diff? Is that a speed sensor? If it is the one, do I have to get it form the dealer? Thanks for any help!
  • Hi. My 2004 dash lights and locks go wild when I open the door. The battery died today and attempting to start only brings severe clicking noise from the engine bay.

    Did you get a solution?
  • Replaced battery last week. Would not start this morning. Adjusted ignition cables (which always seem loose) jumped off, drove around block, pulled in driveway and it stalled. It will restart but will not stay on.
    Other recent problem that husband fears may be some of the and CD player will not work..not lights, nothing. Had the fuse checked....not blown...worked about an hour after the fuses had been checked. Now nothing.
    Please help. I dread having to bring it to dealership.
  • screwed2screwed2 Posts: 4
    I hope someone out there can give me the answer to this one. About 2 weeks ago, while driving my durango, the check engine light came on and the strained to go as you stepped on the gas pedal. Brought it into the mechanic who diagnosed that the problem was with the computer. The computer was replaced (very expensive) the next day I started out on a trip to Maryland from upstate NY. I got about 50 miles from home when the check engine light again came on and the suv was again struggling to move as I stepped on the gas pedal. I also noticed that the battery light had gone down to almost the as low as it can go and the RPM's on the vehicle were sitting at 3500. I managed to get the truck home and back to the mechanic. He placed another computer into the vehicle, drove around a bit and the computer blew. A third computer was put in and again it blew. It has now been two weeks and I have had the vechile in my possession for a half a day in those 2 weeks. I am not looking forward to the bill either. Has anyone had this happen and what is the answer?

    Thanks for any help you can provide.
  • scotsboyscotsboy Posts: 2
    I had a problem with the battery discharging in mine, seemed to be that the fan was not cutting out after the engine was shut off. Traced it back to a bad fan relay. A few $ to replace, and has been fine since. Have you noticed if the fan in yours staying on for a long time?
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    For all you 2000 durango owners with a bad o2 sensor caused by the power steering switch leaking fluid into the wiring harness through the ground wire. I finally got mine corrected.I caslled Bosh and asked what wire was the ground. They said it was the "White" wire coming from the o2. You need to match what pin that relates to at the connection from the harness. Cut that wire and run a wire from where you cut it at the connection, not the harness. Connect the other end of the wire next to the air filter on the finder well. You will see three other connections on the fender well. Just loosen the net and connect your wire there. Clear you code. You may have to do it again after driving for a while. The second time the code will stay off.
    The dealership DOES sell a bypass wire for this purpose. THe part number is 56045483AC and cost $66.00 as of now. I just found this out after re-splicing the wires myself.
    Hope this info will help.
  • windkistwindkist Posts: 4
    Our 99 Durango has been stalling. Yesterday 3 times on the way home from work in 100 degree heat. We have replaced the crank sensor but, so many have said its the ECM. Is it the ECM or the PCM? whats the difference and where is the PCM located? Has anyone had any luck in figuring out this mess?

    Leah :mad:
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    I have not had the problem, but I do want to avoid it. Which O2 sensor is it and which harness are you cutting?

  • abroybaabroyba Posts: 3
    After it sat for a week I came to it Dead. Jumped it off and now the keyless entry, door locks, intermittent part of wipers, rear wiper, all do not work. The windows and seats and radio still work. Even the high/low on front wipers work. Anyone have any clues? Please help me as I cant afford dealership prices. Thanks in advance
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    The wiper delay and the door locks are all common to the Central Timer Module (CTM). Assuming that there was not a short that caused the battery to die,(possible if it died after only a week) you most likely blew a fuse or a relay when you jumped it. Check the door lock relay (If there is another relay on the J Block that is the same, swap them and see if the symptoms change) and all fuses associated with door locks and wipers. If there is a blown fuse and it cocntinues to blow, there is a short in that system. Diagnosing it is fairly simple and if you are averse to dealers, any competent garage mechanic can track it down.
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    It's the front o2 sensor. I cut the ground wire on the connector that connects to the o2. Next to the tranny, you will see four wires that go to the connector. Look at the white wire on the o2 and see what color wire it connects to on the harness connector. That is the wire.Cut is and run a new ground as explained in my previous note.
    You can check your power steering switch every so often to make sure it's not leaking. That is what causes the problem.
    If you see fluid in the steering connection, you will need to change that also.
  • abroybaabroyba Posts: 3
    Thanks for the advice. I will check that out this afternoon. Will update with findings.
  • abroybaabroyba Posts: 3
    Well after further inspection and troubleshooting I have not found any blown fuses or relays that are bad. What else do you think might be the problem? If CTM then about how much is that?

  • I just want to thank you for this info. I have a 2000 Dakota 4.7 code 171 i have been fighting with for 6 months now have replace 02 3 times and was told by chrysler to have injectors cleaned, replace pcv, replace timing chains and guides still no help. Each time I took it to garage I even asked why when 02 was removed there was oil inside connector and why did 02 smoke but they could not answer this.
    I have just replaced my ps switch yesterday which also had oil in connector never did get ps fault code. Just wanted to be sure all I need to replace is just the ground wire on the o2 correct?
    I just wandered how many of you guys with this prob have Ca emissions on your trucks mine is and wiring is slightly different from federal. Thank you give this man a gold star
  • amd5amd5 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 durango, small V-8. Recently it has began to make a noise that sounds like a whistle. The whistle starts off at a low pitch then gets higher. It only lasts for about 4 or 5 seconds. It sounds like it may be coming from the rear of the truck, but I cannot be sure. The A/C can be on or off. Usually I am traveling over 20 miles per hour. I know this sounds weird but it is driving me crazy. The dealership cannot locate the problem. I have had the power steering pump replaced. The water pump has been inspected. Can someone offer some assistance. Thank You.
  • aray2aray2 Posts: 15
    The only wire i changed was the ground. I did use electrical contact cleaner to clean both connectors off about four or five times. After you spray them, just let them hang and dry out. Good luck
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    I don't have a lot of info on the CTM. I know that there are 2 versions (base and high line) depending on the equipment installed on the vehicle. This module also controls the headlight chimes, the "key-in-ignition" chimes, the seat belt reminder, and various other items. Check to see if those are working. If they are, it is most likely not the CTM that failed (but I have seen some strange things). Just out of curiousity, you did check the fuses and relays in the engine bay also, correct? I'll go take a look at mine and see if I can nail down what else may be the problem.
  • tinkerertinkerer Posts: 13
    I'm afraid I don't have much more info. In order to properly diagnose the CTM, you should use a diagnostic scan tool. I do know that it is under the dash beside the glove box but before you replace it, I would want to be sure that all the fuses & relays are good. Most of the relays in the J Box under the hood are the same and are interchangeable. You may also want to take out the glove box and ensure that there is power to the CTM. Barring that, I don't have much more info without getting to a schematic.
  • :cry: My Durango has a hard time starting when it sets for awhile, or sets overnight. Took it back to the dealer and they replaced a faulty fuel pump, but still has a hard time starting. They say that it is carbon built up on valves and pistons. I think not but I have no clue. Can someone clue me in!!! :cry:
  • jjcroce3jjcroce3 Posts: 3
    Well, Mine has been in the shop since the june. the first few weeks of june. This is crazy. It is in the 4th shop now. i have replaced crank position sensor. battery, plugs, wires, fuel pump relay and then finally took it to the dealer. they said that it was the air intake manifold gasket without barely looking at it. they wanted $1300.00 to fix that. Funny non of the other shops have mentioned that. I even had an uncle who was a big exec. for Chrysler call Dodge and ask a few questions and they said it would have run terrible if that was it. Now it is the computer or PCM on some model years, ECM on others. they are the same. So I took it somewhere else to get fixed. I got a remanufactured ECM ordered and it was only $250.00 not the $600.00 the dealer wanted for [part and $400 they wanted to install it. It is on the way and my Mechanic will install for $35.00 and take it to Dodge and have it programmed for $100.00. I just want my car back. Keep me posted what you find and I will tell you if this works.
  • Depending on how old your durango is, its a covered part under the 7 year 70,000 mile warranty, Mine did that and it was the computer!! The CPM and then they couldn't get that started so found out my crank positon sensor was bad, Ball Joints had a recall on them and they replaced those for free while they were in there. Hadn't had any more problems since that, with the exception my battery died two days after i got it home. HOpe that helps you out.
  • pinkumspinkums Posts: 2
    try checking the fusible link on the right side of the battery cable. it is a long round cylindrical shape, usually black in color, that leads to the brain or computer,it is hard to tell if that is bad,but just wiggle it after the truck dies,and it should start back up. if so then all you need to do is change it. hope that helps.
  • barb1954barb1954 Posts: 1
    Vehicle RPM revs to 2200 RPM on start-up then fluctuates between 500 RPM and 2000 RPM for 2 - 3 minutes before reducing but still fluctuates from 700 RPM to 1100 RPM. Does this whether warm or cold. Hope someone can help.
  • vantiquesvantiques Posts: 1
    I have the same noise and have narrowed it down to the A/C. Mine has done that for two years...but only in the summer and when I turn on the A/C. Well......about two days ago (in 115 degrees) my front A/C quit blowing. Back A/C is fine and very cold. BUT....the faster I drive the more the front A/C blows. So, when I stop at a stop sign there is NO air flowing! and as I accelerate then the a/c starts coming out. I had a friend look at it and the blower will not blow (under the dash by the passengers feet) He took the blower out and connected it to something and it blows.
    Then he tested the current and it had 12V going in and coming out. ANYWAY I know this didn't help but i understand the noise that you are talking about. I would like to know what it is also.

  • pyrate951pyrate951 Posts: 1
    Did you ever figure out what was wrong. Mine is doing the same thing.
  • kbdc8297kbdc8297 Posts: 6
    my '04 durango also has the buffeting noise when either or both of the rear windows are open even if it is just partially opened. i just dont open the windows. i have never questioned the dealership.
  • kbdc8297kbdc8297 Posts: 6
    my '04 durango limited hemi does the same thing.i just dont roll down the windows.
  • carlincarlin Posts: 1
    Our 99 5.2 Durango is having a serious cooling problem.

    It does not have a cracked block, blown headgasket or warped heads.

    We have Replaced/Done the following.

    Thermostat: Replaced Twice
    Radiator Flush: Done 4 times
    Cooling system Backflush: Done 3 times
    Water Pump: Replaced
    Fan Clutch: Replaced

    Symptoms; we cannot drive it further than about 10 miles without it nearly hitting 260 deg, now either we've gotten 2 faulty thermostats from 2 seperate manufacturer's or thier is something we are overlooking.

    Any Ideas?
  • steverstever Posts: 52,457
    Buffeting is a pretty common problem with lots of cars. Sometimes cracking a rear window or sunroof helps. See:

    tidester, "Volvo XC90 SUV" #930, 3 Jan 2003 10:19 pm
  • I had a similar problem with an Olds I once had, and I know this may sound crazy. If you keep your vehicle in a garage and you have any furry pets, check between the radiator and the air conditioner condenser for a build up of fur which restricts the air flow and causes cooling problems. Just a thought.
  • :) Took back to dealer and got a 2003 Jeep Grand Cherokee w/ a straight 6..:)
  • My central locking system is not working on my 2001 durango. The fuses are fine, but i would rater not pay the high dealer ship repair bills to fix it. My mechanic is having a hard time correcting the problem. Has anyone else had this problem, if so how did you fix it? :cry:
  • Well it has now been a month without my 1999 Durango and I just received a call from mechanic. He asked me to come pick up the vehicle because he can not fix it. He did tell me that he would get it to run so that I can get it to another mechanic or the dealer. I was wondering what the policy is for a mechanic billing me for not fixing the problem? I had already paid the man a lagre amount when he told me that he fixed the problem back in the start of July (1000.00+) I had the vehicle for less than 24 hours before the same problem came back. I spoke to him during the time he had the vehicle and he asked me to leave the truck with him because he wanted to solve the problem. I was going to pull the truck out but agreed to let him fix it. Now, he can't fix the problem. What are my finacial responsibilties to the mechanic? Does he get to be paid in ful for not fixing my truck?
  • I was having the same problem, I just spent $ 425.00 to get a new time modular in it. I supposedly had a security system in it before I bought it. Was told my truck thought it was stolen, so it would shut the fuel off. It is still doing the same thing. I had a scan tool ran on it, show's no codes at all.I"m at a loss and out the MONEY... I had my Crank position sensor tested on it...said it had a spark to it. I was also told that could have been the problem..WISH it had.. the part was cheaper...
  • kimosmkimosm Posts: 7
    I have the same problems . I have a 2000 Durango w/ a 4.7 . Have you have any luck w/ yours yet ?? I have it at the dealership now and they cleaned wires . This did not fix the problem . It is still pouring black soot out the back and "eating gas" . I get about 5-6 miles per gallon and with gas prices now days. Is there some defect w/ this model and make that would cause so many mech. and tech. to go bald from scratching their heads with wonder ?? :sick: Please if anyone can give me any insight on this problem please let me know.
  • If I can get your telephone number, I would explain to you what is happening to your Durango.

    My problem is solved. I too, went to the dealer, and they identified the power steering switch is bad, leading to your current problems.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,482
    Never post your phone # in a public forum. This could make you the victim of malicious conduct. If you want another member to call you, e-mail them by clicking on their user name.


  • kimosmkimosm Posts: 7
    I think my oil problem has went . The oil has reached the computer system . I'm talking w/ Dodge to see if they can help me w/ some of the repair cost since this is a design defect on this model . What are my chances ??
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